Vauxhall Opel Swirl Flaps Strip Down Part 1 -1 9 CDTI 150 BHP
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ส.ค. 2024
- Vauxhall Opel Swirl Flaps Strip Down 1 9 CDTI 150 BHP.
0:00 Fault explanation
0:44 Intro Music
1:00 Difference between 150bhp and 120bhp engine
1:19 Strip down to get to manifold
4:58 Locking diesel pump sprocket
8:51 EGR valve removal
11:43 Removing sundry items from engine
15:20 Throttle body inspection
16:14 Continue strip down
20:42 Diesel pump removal
25:08 Removing rear bracket and swirl pot
27:38 Manifold removal
In this video I need to remove the inlet manifold so I can fix the swirl flap problem on this Vauxhall Signum 1.9 CDTI and I show how I managed to do this. I will be removing the swirl flaps and deleting them as they are a common problem on this model of engine. Keep an eye out for part 2 where I clean the manifold, the EGR valve and the throttle body as they are all coked up. No need to remove the timing belt for this job, you just need to lock the diesel pump pully as shown in this video.
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"No I don't know what I'm doing" sounds like me 😂
Just the ticket.. same engine in mine. Already had the swirl flap issue, fixed it with an upgraded swirl flap bar and a lot of patience; done without any strip down. But if I want to weld them up, now I have a guide for strip down... many thanks... I'll be saving pt 2 also !
Thank you Martin I love watching your car repair videos can’t wait to see part two I am from South Africa
Thanks very much for posting this. Helped me in the most part change my inlet manifold for a flap deleted one on my alfa 1.9 gt jtdm. One difference was having to grind away part of the cog bulkhead in order to remove the manifold. I couldn't get my grinder in far enough so resorted to smashing one corner away to be able to get in! Anyway, running much better now. Thanks again.
Thank you for taking the time to do this video. It helped me get over the line to do this on my Saab 9-3 1.9tid. Keep up the good work!
So glad I found this video. Thanks for giving me the confidence to tackle the job!
Good job Martin, looking forward to clean up and reassembly
Great video Martin very informative and interesting I love the way you filmed it ,its like being there when your working on the car. I can see why people would gain the confidence to do such a job watching the way you work with such determination on what looks like a very hard bit of work. I cant wait for the next one thanks very much. Kevbo&Jackie
Thanks Kev.👍
Great as always have a good weekend martin
Very well made, explained and filmed . Thanks
Great video martin, you have the patience of a Saint to do the job,.. I just couldn't face it....keep up the good work.
As soon as you described the necessary strip I said, “forget that” to myself🤣🤣. You really are an inspiration Martin, massive technical job and with engine bolts something always breaks for me. I have officially retired from car repairs but love watching your skill and enthusiasm 👍🏻
Haha Steve, It would cost a fortune in a garage, Cars of this age normally get scrapped for jobs like this because of the garage costs so that's why I do these vids.
@@retrorestore Mine would be coming to your house lol
Well done Martin, lots of small bits to get out of way to get the inlet manifold off but you did it thanks for showing it 👍
Thanks John👍
Great job Martin lot of work involved in getting the manifold off
Great job Mart, very informative as always
Thanks for watching
Great tip on locking the fuel pump sprocket... Just in middle of doing this on a Saab cabriolet 1.9tid and it takes a pain out of having to remove the strengthening bars underneath to get to support the engine having to take the timing belt off. Much appreciated!
Good luck with it David.
Great video Martin, I had the same problem with my saab 93 which shares the same engine, turned out to be the turbo boost control valve once I replaced that all the horses were back in the stable.
i had a problem with my saab 93 tid chuckin out smoke ,it turned out to be the swirl flaps and managed to find your video which was great for doing the job .I just blanked them off ,now shes a good un ...........great video
Thank you so much 😁
Great video, very informative 👏 Tip for not losing the gasket when removing the egr valve. Stick a cloth down in the gap to catch it just in case it falls. I've used this tip for lots of things when fixing cars and it has saved me a lot of hassle. It's also handy to have a telescopic magnet 🧲
Tutorial videos are the best videos you do Mart , 👍 up
Thanks Phil👍
Some job that mate. What a poxy design. Fair play to you.👍
thank you, vlog was amazing, i was doing the same thing with this video on tv, worked perfectly, tx
Great job Martin 👍👍
Fantastic job Martin on a very tricky job thumbs up 👍👍👍👍
Yes it was Alan.
Wow that was mind blowing. A lot of work thanks for sharing.
Glad you liked it!
Smashed it. Don’t even own this car but like watching Martin !
Thanks James
Good job Martin . A lot of work .
Yes it was Pete.
Great video. Thank you.👍
Good Job Martin 👍
Doin mine now I'm mechanic btt thank for video as I had trouble removing swirlpot braket btt noticed the pot had bolt running through it btt I never thought it b behind the pot so well explained as iv found the nut through ur video so well done for explaining so well mate nearly there just got remove the fuel pump n the bottom bolt off pump il b ready take out the manifold then
Glad it helped
Nice work Martin, like the flesh colored gloves. 😉👍
Glad you like them lol
Hey very thanks for this video, realy help
Good work dude! Saving a small fortune doing it yourself hey 👍
Thanks 👍
Really good video thank you
Good video mate helped me 👍
What’s the orange connector for under the egr area?
Great work my friend ! Feel your struggle very familiar with DIY wrenching 🍀👍🏻🇬🇧
Thanks 👍
I've done this job many times and it never gets any easier, that bracket at the back and the charcoal canister is such a pain! I take them off scrap cars and tig weld the swirl flap holes, people are often happy to hear they can be blanked off 🤣
Good one there Martin
Dpf and egr cause that carbon build up,mine mysteriously vanished lol,brilliant vlog as usual Martin, cheers
Thanks Jim👍
Nice job Martin looks a rite faf but very informative
It is lol
Martin
Gloves mate what a job glad I am not doing it very interesting to watch think what a garage would charge for this job the carbon build up inside so thick this car should run better after this them flaps willnot stick closed one removed cant wait for next video
Phil in stoke
Good persistence Martin..and great instruction....what a nuisance some of these engines are to work on now,eh !......(those RD350/LC,ect 'lumps' seem so easy to work on now,eh !)....happy days.....
Too right Rob, A garage would charge a fortune for this job and the car would probably get scrapped.
I like it. I like Opel Zafira cdti
Do cars myself but that looks a pig of a job!! Loving ya videos Martin
Thanks Shane👍
Haven't seen that much carbon since I burnt the toast,wow!!
It's a dirty job but well done for taking it on and helping others to try it.Just make sure you put all the pieces back!! LOL.Stay safe.
Thanks Barbara👍
I did the exact same job in my Alfa with the same engine. On some of these engines they fitted a plastic manifold with metal flaps that destroy engines when they fail, and the removal is even worse. The fuel pump bracket required some Dremel work to get my manifold off. I had a similar low power issue which was improved by the swirl flap repair, but the biggest fix was from the MAF sensor going faulty. Worth a check by driving with it unplugged if the issue persists, but fixing those flaps is always worthwhile. Good luck with the rest of the job, and great video!
Yes, I had the MAF issue on our Astra and it transformed the car fitting a new one too.
They now sell a heavy duty swirl flap design inlet on ebay. Fitted one to a saab 93 the other week. New timing kit aswell , owner now says its very fast compared to before.
I did a mates Corsa B Combo with the 1.7d Isuzu engine in it and he was saying it had no power to what it used to have when he first bought it anyway as it had the old vacuum powered EGR valve on it I thought it would be stuck open so removed it and there was no hole behind it into the manifold so was blocked with an oily sooty residue so decided to remove the inlet manifold and was I in for a nasty surprise the holes down to the valves in the head and inlet manifold what used to be the size of an egg were infact the size of 10p piece so the engine was being strangled, I spend a whole day cleaning out the inlet manifold and inlets in the head with a blow torch for the inlet manifold and vacuum cleaner for the build up in the head, once that was done he said it felt better than it ever did on the road.
Every vehicle I work on and is fitted with an EGR valve I blank them off and never had any fail an MOT over a blanked EGR,
I just replace the original stainless steel gasket with a piece of tin plate cut to the same shape so tester probably thinks it's just the gasket, a lot of blinking plates are ¼" thick plate so then they will know it's been blanked off that's when they fail them.
Same engine that was in my saab 9-3. Had the swirl flap issue but ended up having to replace the the manifold,the swirlflaps and the dpf
Ingenious
What a pig of a job! Very instructive video, thanks! (Sticking to petrol engines).
You're welcome!
Thanks for your video.
Haynes manuals are great but this is waaaay better.
that little bolt on the swirl pot was an absolute w@nk.
And it doesnt need to come off on my Saab... there is a bracket next to the swirl pot that can come off and give better access to the bracket the swilr pot is attached to.
But anyway... thanks again, your videos are there for us all for posterity .
You are a star .
Too many parts need to be stripped down. Way too scary.
I once removed the EGR and the Throttle body, but this is on another level.
I swapped my swirl flap rod with the fully metal with brass fittings. Haven’t had a problem since
I did this on my astra. Worst bit was the oil bowl thing at the back. Replaced manifold with a welded manifold
Thanks
Martin, fit a welded inlet manifold. Its the mod most owners with issues do.
The EGR delete is an MOT pass if you map it out. It only fails for an EML on the dash. You can also get a blanking plate with a smaller hole to stop the EML coming on.
I would advise if not blanking the manifold you fit a new swirl flap actuator.
Jimmy's mate is welding the manifold up.
@@retrorestore tbh. I would have mine done as a prevention but it can actually cause some issues.
Luckily it was only my bar that came off and I fixed it.
Looking at the amount of oil in the throttle body the turbo seals might be on the way out.
They are good strong engines apart from the crap to reduce emissions.
@@WestYorkshireGuy1 all that carbon is exhaust gasses via EGR, the reason there is more than usual is due to the boost/air leak. The ECM sees a high air flow and ups the fuel to suit but as its leaking air/boost it causes rich mixture resulting in incomplete burn and excess soot, on an older diesel without DPF this would be noticeable with black soot clouds out of exhaust. The DPF catches soot so driver is usually unaware of problem or might feel a slight power loss.
The slightest of air leaks in the boost circuit causes rapid build up of soot everywhere upstream of the DPF.
Be careful of the injector return pipes, easy to put your elbow on them and snap them. Coolant flows through the inlet so its drained to prevent it from entering piston 1 and 2 when you pull the inlet away from the engine.
Christ martin, where do you get your patience from? What a ball-ache of a job. Don't we love modern cars. Good work.
Yes Martin amazing job again so therapeutic. Keep going bud 😍
Thanks John👍
I have the 5 cylinder version 250hp in my fiat croma had the swirl flaps tired open egr delete and and dpf delete and it doesn’t half shift and passes mot every year
I have all studs on mine and the manifold is getting caught at the side nearest the drivers side. Any idea how to get this out?
I bunged the holes where the swirl flaps were .no problems since, just make sure the electrical connection is still on the actuator.
I had problems on my Zafira SRi 1.9 CDTi 150bhp, with no power at all. Turned out to be a coked up MAP sensor. (Don't buy cheap ones, stick with Bosch) Once changed there was an obvious power increase. Then found swirl flap bar off. This causes a kind of mis-fire feeling above 2000 rpm, which varies depending on which flaps are stuck open or closed. Put the bar on, problem goes away until it falls off again. My Swirl flaps are badly worn and leaking diesel which seems to cause a P2279 (air leak) error. Now going to blank them off.
I cleaned the EGR Valve ,throttle body and inlet on my A3 TDI every year and it was such a dirty job. It wasn't sluggish before i cleaned it up but afterwards my mpg would go up a bit. It didn't have a DPF either which helped. For cleaning EGR valves, throttle bodies and inlet's i recommend Mr Muscle but don't leave it on for too long or it oxidizes the aluminium.
Very good video . Thanks. I’m doing a 159 Alfa . Changed inlet manifold and am getting p2013 fault code so contemplating removing swirl flaps . Will that help get rid of code i your opinion? Cheers !
Not sure bud, sorry.
Getting pretty rare those cars Marin ,I've had a look and there Is only 377 left that are still on the road 👍👍
Yes they are Ash
@@retrorestore 👍
Had the same problem with my 120hp version you need to fit the later upgraded inlet manifold and actuator?
I didn't think the 120 version had swirl flaps
Again, thank you very much for your effort!👍
Hopefully you can get your hands clean again. 🤷
I hope so too lol
Hi please help. While taking the inlet manifold off to remove swirl flaps 2007 astra 1.9cdti 150 I forgot to drain coolant. Soon as I started to remove manifold could hear a gargle noise so immediately drain coolant. While draining the coolant from tap on front left underneath water was also leaking down the back of engine. Do I have problems big problems now? I could see in through the 4 holes in the engine when got the manifold off and one had liquid in it just small amount. What do I do please help. Cleaned the liquid out as much as I could see by pushing a cloth in and soaking it up. I've the manifold refitted swirl flaps blanked will it be ok or have I bigger issues now . Would draining the engine oil fix my mistake.
I would change the oil just to be safe.
Hi Martin, can I ask how long it took you from starting to getting the airbox out? About to do the job myself although I've a new airbox and EGR so I wont have to clean the ones I take off
Its hard to say as i'm filming at the same time bud.
Thanks for the reply. Think I’ll have it all done in a day as I have a new air box, EGR valve and map sensor. I’ll let you know how I get on. :)
Hello there @retrorestore thank you for putting this video up its been great, got a question for you about the diesel pump removal, iv got the 3 nuts off and the main nut on the pulley, but I can't get the pump out, iv got movement of the bar with the woodruff but it just won't go quite all the way, even with a few taps for persuasion, any advice? Cheers!
Mine needed a good wack but make sure you don't hit the bare end of the shaft or you'll damage the threads. You can wind the nut on and hit that..
@@retrorestore yeah I think you said about putting the nut on to protect it, so I gave it a go and it'll go flush but then when I take the nut off and try pull through it just won't go 😅 will have at it again tomorrow and see if its just got itself caught on something
Needed a bit more persuasion than I expected, but the manifold is now off!
Hi please reply. When you were putting everything back together after the inlet manifold in place etc. The fuel pump was the nut that was holding onto where the timing belt is.. was it 15nm or 50 nm torque did you say. Cheers
I can't remember, sorry.
@@retrorestore how would I find out
Hi love all your videos. Your so lucky to be so skillful . Ive a astra H 1.9 CDTI 150 looks like same engine as this one your working on. After watching this video I had to check my own and the metal bar that goes between the 4 swirl flaps and broke off completely. Thinking of tackling taking the inlet manifold off myself as your video is brilliant to follow. Can I ask the threaded bar that the fuel pump is attached the one that has to be removed to allow the inlet to be removed. You had to put two nuts on that bar to then remove it. Can you tell me what size nuts would be needed for that threaded bar. Thank you so much. Wish I lived close by as I'd just leave the car with u to sort 🎉
Sorry Paul, I can't remember bud.
Tha k you so much for your time in replying. Is the fuel pump itself held onto the three threaded bars by nuts would just using two of them do of they are held on by nuts?
Intake system air leak fault code is the egr valve, done loads of them, clean it will only last so long to be honest best just to blank or replace
What would cause these to keep blowing out I've had a second unit fitted and the same one has blown put, is this normal
Its just a poor design.
Hi mate , what are the torque settings for the inlet manifold?
Pump pully?
I can't remember, sorry.
Gloves highly recommended when diesel intake manifolds are involved.
What is the symptoms of bad swirl flap? Can be hard start caused by bad swirl valve?
yes and poor performance
Hi mate what error code was it reading my vectra has a similar problem thanks
I can't remember sorry.
Quick question, I think I have the same issue on my car and I’m wondering should I bother to fix it or is it fine to drive without having to worry about anything blowing up.
You will probably have a lack of power due to air leaks and it may fail the emmisions due to the ecu trying to compensate for the air leak.
@@retrorestore hi thanks for the reply, yeah I have a bunch of issues with it, lack of power, black smoke upon acceleration and boost doesn’t even come on until about 2300 rpm and when I does it’s not good, as well as engine light with air leak fault code, idle also sounds rough makes a few weird noises.
Nicely done.
Why do these muppets think it's a good idea to make these parts out of plastic?, it's almost as if they design them to just last for the warranty period......
Is that the fiat engine 🤔. It was a nightmare on my 1.9 vectra Estate Sri nav ...
Best cure for these is egr delete and map out plus welded inlet manifold,
If the sensor is on the inlet manifold then it's a MAP(Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. If the sensor is near the airbox then it's a MAF(Mass Air Flow) sensor.
That is correct.
Need video like this but 1.7cdti
Carbon build up wouldn't be helping as well. thoroughly enjoyed the video.
tip put some petrol in when u fill up with diesel
👍😊
Hope Jimmy watches this to see the shift you put in martin
Hi Martin …. I have a blanking kit for one of them you are welcome to have …
The blanking kits are OK but tend to leak again. Better off fitting a welded inlet as its off anyway.
Thanks Chris. Jimmy's mate is welding the manifold up.
@@retrorestore the other thing we used to do was tap the holes and wind in a blanking plug
Martin, if they were handing out medals for tenacity....! - drop the bonnet, stick all the bits in the boot and scrap it. Get yourself a mk3 Cortina or something similar and bask in the glory days of simple mechanicals with room to work on simple engines without all the egr and electronic crap. Funny how that simplicity now commands more money than all the complicated technical, designed to be unservicable tripe we have to live with now - Rant over and good luck with the rebuild..!!!
It would cost a fortune in a garage, Cars of this age normally get scrapped for jobs like this because of the garage costs so that's why I do these vids.
@@retrorestore Absolutely, and they go on at us all the time about waste and saving the Planet yet they design these cars to be easily assembled and impossible to work on after. Saw an American video recently where Tesla wanted to replace an entire battery pack for $22,000.00 on a car worth $25,000.00. Independent garage swapped 2 cells and it cost $5,000.00..!! - Now I'm a Yorkshireman, so you can imagine my pain..!!!
I've done a few of these that one 12mm below the fuel pump pain in the ass
Remove the flaps and have the inlet welded and blank egr, there is a polish website you can order an egr simulator from and have it delivered to the UK....problem wont happen again. I did it to mine. msg me if you need more info.
This video is a great example of just how bad people treat their cars. It also shows that the only thing to do with this car is fix it and sell it. That engine design, loom etc is probably one of the worst designs for anyone to work on. It's not a car for people to learn car maintenance from. Maybe that's why it's in such disrepair? Still can't get over that it passed its last MOT. That's simply frightening scary. Obviously took the money but didn't go over the car at all in my opinion.
Explained all said the tools you need but you forgot the most important one a swear box ( should sack the catering help no cups of coffee or tea) ha ha
147bhp
In fact,if you're is a signum design cdti auto there is only 4 licenced and 4 SORN ,sorry this is nothing to do with your video ,I just thought I'd look 😄👍
Just by removing 2 glow plugs you can put the swirl flap rod into position