the best thing for cleaning a plastic manifold is to leave it submerged in egr cleaner or a mix of caustic soda(pottasium hydroxide) and ethanol (99%alcohol) over night no scrubbing needed afterewards caution dont clean an aluminium manifold this way because caustic soda disolves aluminium
Nice results although not cleaning the intake ports means that the airflow will still be restricted. Also you should really consider doing flaps delete, its a straight up upgrade. Also might want to look into EGR delete, it's a little more complicated but 100% worth it. My m57 feels like a totally different engine after that.
Can also just unplug the EGR valve electrical connector on these to try it out. Puts the check engine light on but it's 10x more responsive and makes no smoke, while it smokes under acceleration with the EGR enabled. I might have a bad pressure converter or MAF or something.
I explain this in the video, but basically: The car has 500.000km and the swirl flaps, apart from having lots on carbon build up on them, are fine. But why? Well, in my case is because they've been disconnected at the actuator level. The little vacuum hose that goes from the control valve to the swirl flap actuator is cracked, so the swirl flaps never move, they stay in the OPEN position all the time. In this position, they experience minimum drag from the intake air, so the risk of any of them getting loose and entering into the combustion chamber is minimal. Apart from that, my car has not been remapped. So the levels of boost are stock or even below stock. And on top of that, as I mention in the video, the little screws the hold the swirl flaps are riveted from the back. I tried unscrewing one of them and I had to apply A LOT of force in order to get it out, deforming the back of the screw in the process. So with all that said, I'm pretty confident the flaps are not going to cause any issues whatsoever. And even if something does go wrong, the one that's going to fail will be the one I tried to unscrew.
Thanks for pointing this out. Yes, the engine mounts are gone, but the weird circular motion you see on video is actually due a phenomenon called "aliasing", because the camera is sampling the video at 30fps. In real life, the engine shaking is more violent and it oscillates at a higher frequency.
The vibration you heard from the interior is, in part, because of the worn out engine mounts, and also because of trim pieces of the interior that got loose over time. BMW made these cars to be very reciclable by using some kind of glue to put a lot of stuff together. This car spent 20+ years living in the hot and sunny Spain, so the glue got so dry that it stopped glueing. As a result, the door pockets for example, get loose and start resonating with the low frequency vibrations that come from the engine at idle (which is, once more, exaggerated by having collapsed engine mounts). But, when you cruise at normal speeds, with the engine sitting at 2200 rpm - you hear nothing. I kinda go into this in a video I made called 'it's not just a "rattle"'.
Fantastic job, great video.
Thank you, would recommend you to anyone.
True pro,worth every penny.
Cheers
Great effort, good results, cheers
the best thing for cleaning a plastic manifold is to leave it submerged in egr cleaner or a mix of caustic soda(pottasium hydroxide) and ethanol (99%alcohol) over night no scrubbing needed afterewards caution dont clean an aluminium manifold this way because caustic soda disolves aluminium
Nice job, step by step.. I need to do this on my 318 td Compact👍👍
Nice results although not cleaning the intake ports means that the airflow will still be restricted. Also you should really consider doing flaps delete, its a straight up upgrade. Also might want to look into EGR delete, it's a little more complicated but 100% worth it. My m57 feels like a totally different engine after that.
Can also just unplug the EGR valve electrical connector on these to try it out. Puts the check engine light on but it's 10x more responsive and makes no smoke, while it smokes under acceleration with the EGR enabled. I might have a bad pressure converter or MAF or something.
I have M47D20TU2 122hp and it has no flaps from the factory.
Thank you for this video, keep on.
Greetings from Germany
Danke schön!
You don't remove the flaps?
Everyone used to delete it, but I see that recently people are going back to the original...
I explain this in the video, but basically:
The car has 500.000km and the swirl flaps, apart from having lots on carbon build up on them, are fine. But why? Well, in my case is because they've been disconnected at the actuator level. The little vacuum hose that goes from the control valve to the swirl flap actuator is cracked, so the swirl flaps never move, they stay in the OPEN position all the time. In this position, they experience minimum drag from the intake air, so the risk of any of them getting loose and entering into the combustion chamber is minimal. Apart from that, my car has not been remapped. So the levels of boost are stock or even below stock. And on top of that, as I mention in the video, the little screws the hold the swirl flaps are riveted from the back. I tried unscrewing one of them and I had to apply A LOT of force in order to get it out, deforming the back of the screw in the process.
So with all that said, I'm pretty confident the flaps are not going to cause any issues whatsoever. And even if something does go wrong, the one that's going to fail will be the one I tried to unscrew.
did you noticed a difference while driving with the clean manifold?
Absolutely no difference
@@alexderkach_ thank you!
the engine seems a bit shaky at idle it has a bit of a weird circular motion to it, maybe have to check the engine mounts
Thanks for pointing this out. Yes, the engine mounts are gone, but the weird circular motion you see on video is actually due a phenomenon called "aliasing", because the camera is sampling the video at 30fps. In real life, the engine shaking is more violent and it oscillates at a higher frequency.
@@alexderkach_ very interesting, I also heard a vibration in the interior which lead me to believe it was engine mounts
The vibration you heard from the interior is, in part, because of the worn out engine mounts, and also because of trim pieces of the interior that got loose over time. BMW made these cars to be very reciclable by using some kind of glue to put a lot of stuff together. This car spent 20+ years living in the hot and sunny Spain, so the glue got so dry that it stopped glueing. As a result, the door pockets for example, get loose and start resonating with the low frequency vibrations that come from the engine at idle (which is, once more, exaggerated by having collapsed engine mounts).
But, when you cruise at normal speeds, with the engine sitting at 2200 rpm - you hear nothing. I kinda go into this in a video I made called 'it's not just a "rattle"'.
Great video! Very clear and helpful. I want to do this on my M57 engine and presume it’s pretty much the same with two extra cylinders?
Thanks! Yes, the M57 is pretty much the same but (as some people say) with the correct amount of cylinders
Cheaper to just buy a new one, you need to have the water hot and a small nozzle to reach in the ports.
Compact?
Yes
you need hazmat suit to do this job
Vans dead🫣