I would like to say thank you. My gf and I were out and about and we were driving her 2000 Honda Accord. The engine wouldn’t start but it kept cranking. I was like oh man what are we gonna do. It was about 96° out and we were stuck. I did a quick google search and your video popped up. I watched the first few minutes. I got out of the car and I said I think I know what it is. I went ahead and popped the hood, detached the cable and reconnected it. I turned the key and boooyah! It started!!! You should have seen the look on my gf’s face went I did it… the look of hot dammmm babe!! Thanks for the pointer and for making me look like the hero for the day!! Lol
No starts are the worst. Especially when you've just built the motor and your're thinking "this could be a paperweight if things don't work out". Good advice.
This has happened to me before and i fixed it and it worked fired right up now you just gave me hope because recently iv picked up another one and i have this issue crank no start appreciate it man
Finally found a possible solution to my problem. My car starts but sometimes after a drive it won't start and I have to wait about 10 minutes for the car to cool down and it will start again
@@morpheus101a Yes it could be that to. One other thing to check is your main relay. If you turn your key two clicks and you don't hear a hum in the backseat, more than likely it's the main relay. It's located driver side left foot under the dash.
Excellent video. Just picked up a '99 that started hard. Cranks, cranks. Turn off key. Cranks, then starts. It also had no alternator belt or a AC belt when I got it. Maybe the belts went and cut the CPS wires
Just changed the inner seal of distributor, fitted back but didn't start instead and small blast sound after some a few attempts. Rotated the shaft 180 deg but not it refuses to fit back, tried a lot of positions but the distributor doesn't sit neatly and stops 0.5 inches before the full seating. Any idea
Thank you so much for update on cps,i will check my car 2morow again.starter kicks but engine not up ,even check light turn on.i suspect mouse might bite my cps wires😅😊tqsm really helpful infomation👌👍
My 95 Accord LX (non VTEC) only does the crank/no start after driving in heavy rain…then after a day or 2 of dry conditions it will fire back up. Could this be the same issue or do you have any ideas of something else I should check?
Hi Sensatious, It could be, but I would suggest the next time it won't start, have a look under the passenger side glove box to the right. The panel comes off by your right foot. The "ECU and Main Relay" are located there. A lot of times water likes to drip down the corner of the windshield seal or the top roof weather stripping, the caulking gets a crack in it. They might be getting water on them and shorting out. In some cases you might have to remove the vent underneath the windshield where the wiper motors are. There will be caulking with cracks in it there as well. Hope this helps.
@@Nthefastlane I’ll definitely give that a look when I get some time…I’ll write back on here if in case anyone else finds this comment. Thanks for the video and reply 😎
I have ls vtec. 98 ek civic ex harness. Running obd1 p28 with jumper. Do i need a crank position sensor? Cranks no start but that sensor on ls block is a two pin and the connector on ex harness is 3 pin plug so its not connected. Is this a problem
Hello, I was wondering if I could get some help... I have a 99 Honda Civic Ex that has trouble starting. I have to crank it quite some few times then it starts rattles a bit then idles high then back to normal. Drives normal doesn't seem to have trouble just when starting. I get a lot of fuel smell but im guessing thats becuase I crank it so much. Also have a P0420 code. Any ideas? Thanks i. Advance.
Do you possibly think you is what’s wrong with my car. I have a 96 Honda Civic ex, brand new alternator, battery, fuel pump, spark plugs and wires. Car still cranks but won’t start. Could be the crankshaft sensor?
Katie Cunningham, check for loose ground connections. Do you have a DVM (digital volt meter)? From the front of the car, look on left side for the Starter. Check that Ground wire that is connected to Starter.
Youve probably heard this a lot but here is my problem.... I took one plug out to check if it was bad then put it back in... Torqued it to spec and it would not start. I cleaned the dizzy cap.. I changed all the plugs and gapped to spec. Next I checked to see if I got spark by grounding all spark plugs to wires out of chamber and I can see spark on all of them. I'm so clue less I don't think it can be ignition can it? And I know fuel is working because I can smell it... Next I don't think it could be timing because I didn't even touch that
Ashwin Sivaainkaran Replace the main relay under your left foot and on the side wall above the fuse box. More then likely that is your problem. The main relay turns the fuel pump on, very common problem on all 92-00 honda civic's.
I bought a Honda that starts but has a rough idle. And the check engine light reads P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor Range/Performance. I dont know if i should start at the sensor on the block like yours or the distributor. Im getting conflicting information. Its a 1997 Civic EX D16y8
This thing drives me crazy now, my 1992 honda civic vx D15Z1 with new distributor cranks but really struggling to start up I had to step the gas several times. The car runs smooth and no loss of power when it starts up. I am thinking of the issue of CPS but I can’t find the correct parts, do you have a part number for it please?
The first 3 things I would look into would be the fuel filter, spark plugs/spark plug gap and a possible vacuum leak somewhere. The next 2 I would look at would be the mass air flow sensor and O2 sensor.
A tricky one that's kind of a hit or miss is the engine "Coolant Temp Sensor". If this sensor malfunctions it'll make the vehicle run too rich at start, causing a rough start. This sensor sends a signal to the ECU affecting air/fuel ratio.
Hmmm maybe my 1998 honda civix DX the wire ripped i havent checked ... one day i was coming back from thw store when my battery light came on so i thought it was my alternator... so i went and bought a new one replaced it but still it wouldnt start... then i went to buy a new battery thought that was the problem and still no crank every time i turned the key the motor would just rotate and didnt start... today i changed my fuel filter but still nothing... it keeps doing the same thing motor just keeps on rotating.. but doesnt crank ill definitely check out the wiring to see if mine didnt rip it off
Hey I have a 1998 Honda accord, 2.3 vtec, 5spd. My ac leaks on the passenger side somewhere so I try not to use it, I was driving and using my ac(dumb choice) and my car died 15 minutes into driving. It would crank no start. P1382 CEL code. I’ve replaced distributor, tested alternator, checked fuses, swapped in ECM/ignition and still same CEL and crank no start. I’m stuck on what to do next
What about obd1? Because my car has no crank sensor but I have no fuel no spark and no tach, my understanding is that my crank sensor doubles off the cam sensor in the distributor
If you're still around, id like to ask you about my 1st gen CR-V. Maybe you could shed some light. Motor swap. No check engine light. Running great. Cold snap/won't start. Getting air/fuel, fire/compression. Before the motor swap, I DID replace cap and rotor. Any ideas? It got negative degrees out and just wouldn't fire up. But get this! I pulled the fuel rail off to check brand new injectors and it fired and briefly ran with the fuel rail off! Starting fluid doesn't do anything. Im wondering if I got some bad fuel and it's just too cold to combust before it's flooding it? Idk. Cranks strong, battery is good.
When you did the motor swap did you swap over the distributor from the runnning engine? Did the new motor come with its own set of injectors and a distributor? It could be a couple of things, crank position sensor, or it could also be the distributors "Ignition Spark Control Module Ignito". The coil pack inside the distributor could be weak or bad also. It may put out a little bit of spark, but it might not be hot enough.
@@Nthefastlane I've been driving it for about a month or a little more. I used the old distributor with a new cap and rotor. Brand new injectors for the B20. They are correct and working well. The weirdest thing is, when we lifted off the fuel rail to make sure the injectors were doing their job, it fired and briefly ran with the fuel that was sitting in it! Checked all plugs on the valve cover and they are throwing huge spark. The crank positioning sensor was a special consideration during the motor swap cuz the last one was barely wired up. So we took extra consideration making sure this one was proper. After watching your video and a couple others, I'm wondering if it is indeed, the coil pack. But I'm not sure yet. Those injectors look like they are dumping a lot of fuel, could it be the fuel regulator on the fuel rail? It may be the proper amount of fuel, but when it would fire without the fuel rail/injectors in, we'd try to gradually put the injectors in as it fired and it was like it was flooding it out. Maybe the spark isn't great enough and it's a coil pack issue...at any rate, I appreciate your reply. You're the only person who has gotten back to me.
I would check the injector clips, after I did that and it still didn't run I would swap out the fuel rail and injectors from the other engine. It could be the fuel pressure regulator. I would first swap out the fuel rail with the new injectors, and then swap out the old injectors see which one makes a difference. Sometimes it's just a matter of troubleshooting the least expensive parts first. If you already have used parts that are known to be working I would use those as test pieces such as all the old parts from your original running engine. I try to get back with and help people. When you get hundreds of messages it can be challenging to keep up, but I give it a good effort.
@@Nthefastlane I understand, and I stand behind everything you just said. My buddy gets off work at 3 p.m. today then he's coming over to help me. Im gonna do just that. We considered the fuel regulator. We're gonna slap a different one on when he gets off. I will definitely let you know what we figure out.
@@Nthefastlane I pulled the distributor cap off. The bottom bolt was loose. There was an oily substance around the bottom of the cap. Inside, the contact points had white corrosion, as if they'd gotten wet, then electrolysis took place while it was firing. On one side of the edge of the rotor, it looked a little "burnt", but that may be normal. Also, that little "nubby" with the spring behind it in the center of the inside of the cap wasn't poking out very far until I cleaned it. Still, only fired initially...then acted like it's flooding again...i think it's a firing issue. And God knows how old that distributor is. Plus, I may have removed too much material from the contact points in the cap. Shavings after I sanded the corrosion....have you come across having to replace distributors very often on Hondas? My buddy has some good distributors laying around and we are gonna slap one on that we know is working and see if we just aren't getting enough fire. Hope that takes care of it. I'll know more on Saturday.
Just curious did it still give you a light spark at the sparkplugs still before the repair? I'm going through the same thing with a 2000 civic d16 vtec model with distributor. We changed the fuel pump, main relay, ecu, wiring, grounds, distributor, alternator, battery, intake manifold gasket, and sparkplugs. Timing belt and tensioner is still good but it looks smutty up in there. Think the sensor may be dirty or bad? It acts like it wants to start but never does.
Check your main plug connection by the master clutch cylinder reservoir and brake booster. I had mine disconnected for a little bit and it got just a little bit of corrosion on some of the pins. Turned out it wasn't applying a correct voltage to the distributor. I troubleshooted for an entire week and finally found that to be the problem. Cleaned the pins and put a little electrical grease on the pins. Once I did that I never had another issue.
I have a 1995 Honda Civic dx that will not start but it will crank,I replaced all the sensors and ecu and distributer,sparks plug and wires,main relay .could it be the crankshaft positioning sensor?
Hi there! I had a question if you can help me I have a 2000 Honda Civic with 330k miles. I was driving to work on Monday about an hour into driving on freeway. I was trying to give it gas to speed up and it wasn’t trying to let me give it gas felt like it was like sputtering/misfiring/slowing down type. So I got off the freeway as I hit the stop sign went to 0mph the car turned off tried to start it up again but it wouldn’t let me. I changed the fuel filter, fuel pump, and fuel relay under dash. It started up for like a min rpms we’re going up and down and as I was trying to rev it up it was having a hard time and then all of a sudden it died. Tried starting back up a couple times and I drained battery trying too. Any help please
I would pull your spark plugs and check them for fouling, you could have fouled spark plugs. If you drive on fouled spark plugs too long they'll melt your valves. If the spark plugs check out fine it could be the distributor, the coil pack could have gone out. If you end up replacing the distributor and everything starts running fine I would definitely change out the plugs and wires as well. Make sure you put some dielectric grease at each end of the spark plug wire connectors. The next thing I would do is check your catalytic converter. If it got clogged up, or maybe the ceramic inside closed off that will do it.
@@jonathantorres5803 wow forgot about this comment.. so since I wrote this comment.. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, new cap and rotor, pcv valve, o2 sensor,
I got it started cause of the Fuel injectors .. I got OEM refurbished fuel injectors off of eBay.. but maybe 1 or 2 of them injectors are NOT any good.. the car starts every time but ON cold starts it Boggs down and wants to die.. you gotta give it gas for a few seconds than it’s okay. When it’s warmed up it doesn’t give me any issues.. so I’m assuming I just gotta get some brand new fuel injectors (which are like 98$ each @AutoZone
I've got a 99 civic cx. I replaced the fuel filter and the car fired right up but died about a minute later. The fuel pump is working, there's fuel pressure and I've retraced my steps & all looks well. Engine cranks. I left the car over night thinking it was flooded but still won't start. Any advice?
Honda's are notorious for having a bad Camshaft Position Sensor. The check engine light will not come on. The dealer told me to install a new sensor- and it started right up. It is a flaw in the engineering of the Honda PCM. The CEL should come on to help guide the the technician- but in Honda's case it usually doesn't.
What if the car cranks, will not start and you cannot move the shifter out of park without putting a screw driver into the "bypass" switch? It will also not start in neutral.
The no start possibly doesn't have anything to do with the shifter selector. If you are speaking of an automatic, then I would look at the brake pedal switch. This switch engages the brake lights. This switch also engages the automatic release of "Park" when the brake pedal is pressed so it can be moved to Neutral, Drive and Reverse. The no start could be several things varying from distributor, cam sensor, lack of 5 volts to the distributor, bad ECU, bad fuel pump, bad fuel pump relay ect.
I just had my 99 civic dx do the same thing after it stalled abruptly at 40 mph. It's been lagging for weeks, like gas is restricted and I'm heavy on the gas pedal. I'd have to cut A/C to not stall when idling. This last and maybe 5th stall was the worst. Other times car stalled but kicked back on or motor started as soon as I cranked it. This time I couldn't get it to neutral from park to push it off street til using the release slot. Stuck in park a few times. I hear fuel pump. Cranks fine. Fuel filter? I know next to nothing about cars. It started fine the days before, and 15 minutes before the last stall. Just seemed starved of gas while accelerating or w AC on. I read all the possibilities above. Does this description maybe eliminate some of those? Thx
@@Nthefastlane Thank you! Cars have gotten a lot more complicated sense I started working on them (40 years ago). Still researching the problem. I replaced the break pedal switch and the little plastic button that the switch lands on a few weeks ago. Thought it was fixed but nope. I read that you should turn the ignition on and press the gas pedal down slowly and the brake at the same time and try to shift. That worked at least once so yesterday, I replaced the throttle position sensor. If fixed, I will be good! If not, I am thinking the ecu.
Trying to figure out what is going on with mine! Im wondering if this is my problem! My wife was driving one day and both the belts ended up busted. Replace them and the car ran fine for a few miles. Then just shut off! Im wondering if this has something to do with it!
Hi my friend, how are you? I have a Honda Accord 95 EX VTec and I don't see the wires of the crank position. Do you know where it is located?Thank you.
"92-95" Honda Civics CKP are located in the distributor. "96-00" Honda Civics CKP are located behind the crank shaft gear on the block behind the timing cover as demonstrated in this video.
Hi, I took off the distributor cap and I saw the igniter, the coil, rotor but how is that part, crank position sensor? Do you have any distributor hitachi for honda 95/4C to show me what part is it? Thank again.
A little help plz. Got a 97 civic 1.6 sohc cranks but wont start. At first it had no spark so ended up changing the distributor and got the spark bu wouldnt turn on. Long story short ended up checking fuses, main relay, spark plug cables, spark plugs, fuel pump, fuel injectors, crank shaft sensor and still nothing. Inserted scanner and it read backfire on piston 4 and 2 so checked timing and it turns out that timing was wrong. placed timing in correct position, Took engine head to the shop and checked valves, got a new head gasket placed everything in place and still no start. Any Tips and advice would be helpfull.
Run a compression check. Pull the distributor cap and rotor off and test for 12v. Make sure your firing order is correct. Link to my website: www.nthefastlane.com/File-Cabinet Go to Dseries section and look at (D16 FIRING ORDER).
Ok thank you for the fast reply . Ran compression test and it drops lower than 50 on two cilinders but all seem un even. what do u recomend? possibly new piston rings?
Watch these videos. If this doesn't work it's definitely your rings. I believe I explain it in the video. Watch ALL 3 videos. Please give a thumb up. Really helps. Leak Down For Blown Head Gasket: www.nthefastlane.com/Diagnostics/leak-down-test-how-to Leak Down Test For Valves: th-cam.com/video/plpLZeM9ZbU/w-d-xo.html Compression test: www.nthefastlane.com/Diagnostics/compression-test-how-to
My car starts up sometimes when ever I give it starter fluid it starts to start up but then does something weird and it doesn’t fully start basically but my car doesn’t start up sometimes a couple times when I was receiving the cranking issue after waiting 10 minutes I heard one click Coming from the engine bay then I tried to start it again and I started right up I’ve replaced distributor I don’t know what’s wrong it’s a 98 Civic dx hatchback
Nthefastlane it spinning I believe but unsure I’ll have to check up on it it sounds like it wants to start but whenever I put starter fluid it starts to turn over but then starts to shake badly then it fails to start
Got a 01 Honda civic 1.7 manual... during the cold I would have to tap on the gas pedal to start up cold... and now it doesn't start at all...it only cranks...doesnt he start pushstarting it...timing belt good
I have a feeling this is my problem. i was told a month ago i needed a new crankshaft sensor. my serpentine belt broke and the loose bottom timing cover got caught in the harmonic balancer. i hope this is my problem and not a timing problem :(
Here’s my issue and hopefully you or your viewers can give me an advice. My car started failing to start till came to no start at all. I pulled out the starter, took to o’Reilly they tested it with bad results. I put a used one in, it took about 3 shots to start it. But again it’s starting with some problems to start. A day the replacement it took me about 3 attempts for it to start. Do you it’s still the starter or something else??
My Honda civic has a new a starter distributor cap rotor and igniter new plug wires and radiator it started right up drove it for 3 days and got it smoged drove great and the next day it turned over and now start
Can you tell me why my accord isn’t starting ,replace fuel pump ,temperature gauge ,the main relay wasn’t working so we hooked a flip switch to it and fuel pump turns on, but the car won’t turn on now , crank no start please someone help me is it the starter module?
Mine cranks but when you remove the map sensor plug it starts but the moment you put the plug back it just cranks and with another sensor engine light stays on and cranks only
No, but it is a sensor that if the ecu knows it aint there by being unplugged, damaged or just old it wont run it self.but when you turn on key check engine light turn on and goes off or stays on means the ecu got power
I'm going to have to see if this is what going on with mine. I love my crv but she won't crank. When she starts she will drive for mins or hours but once its turned off she will not crank again sometimes its is just hours other times its days before it will crank again. I hear the engine attempting to get ready but not turn over. I lost count of how much money we spent replacing everything we could think of.
I have a similar issue with my 95 Honda sometimes it doesn't start on a cold start and then once it does start it starts to sputter and then check engine light comes on but if I would have set it off it would not start almost like the vehicles flooded and then maybe 20 minutes later it'll start up and then I got to hit the gas a lot and then a little spark comes out the muffler sometimes
Dude ur vid only one of hundreds that explains eat was wrong w/ my car! Dam senser wire cut thru 2nd the 3wires from the timing belt!! Idk Y there isnt a bracket to hold it back from the belts
I have a 01 Honda CR-V.. no lights are on, has been running GREAT... and then all of the sudden I’m having issues turning it on. Don’t know what to do or where to start 😭 sometimes it turns on, other times it won’t.
Thanks for the video! Can you describe the no-start condition it was in? Was the starter motor turning but not engaging the flywheel to turn the engine over? That's what mine is now doing after I just changed the cam & crank shaft oil seals & the timing belt on my '97 Accord 2.2L. My car was running fine before, so I'm wondering if I may have damaged the CKP or TDC sensor when I cleaned all the oil grime off them with a paper towel soaked with brake cleaner.
No, this particular issue had to do with the crank positioning sensor. The engine would turn over, "the starter would spin the flywheel/crankshaft". If you hear your starter spinning, and it's not turning the engine over, more than likely it is a bad bendix in the starter The bendix is a gear in the starter that shoots out when the starter engages, and meets with the flywheel teeth to turn the engine over. Basically, time to buy a new starter.
One possible test would be, with the engine off, put a 17mm socket on the crank bolt, turn the crank a few turns, take the wrench off, and try to start again. If the engine turns over this time, you have missing teeth on the flywheel, if that's the case, you need a new flywheel, and possibly a starter. The teeth on the starter can go bad as well.
Thanks for replying! As far as the crank position sensor goes, on my 97 Accord it is called the CKP sensor. I was also debating whether it could be the starter bendix, but what are the chances it or the flywheel teeth happens to go bad on the first attempt to start the car after doing a timing belt job? I'm going to try to find a wiring diagram. I'm wondering: could Honda have set it up so that if the computer doesn't detect the proper signals from the CKP/TDC sensor combo (that I cleaned), it will disable power to the bendix while still allowing the starter motor to turn? The purpose being to protect the valves from being slapped by the pistons if attempting to start while out of time. If it's setup so that the bendix is always energized when the starter motor is, then it's a bad bendix or damaged flywheel teeth.
OK, forget what I said about the starter not engaging the flywheel. My daughter watched the crank pulley & it IS turning. I did what you said above, except I went a step further by getting the #1 piston back at TDC in order to see if the scenario would repeat itself. I also checked the resistance of both CKP/TDC sensors via the 4-pin connector by the timing belt cover (1925 ohms, within spec). Previously, I was assuming the bendix wasn't engaging the flywheel based on the sound/feel (seemed to turn faster & higher pitch). I'm wondering if a fuse is blown. I wonder if initially I didn't re-seat the CKP/TDC connector fully. After I checked the resistance, when I put it back together, I heard a more pronounced click.
I got it running!! All it was is that the fuel drained back to the tank & after I turned the ign switch off & on several times the pump finally got fuel back to the injectors. Scared me... seemed like had no compression.
Question i was driving on the high way going about 70 when my rpms dropped i could hear the engine accelerating when i stepped on the gas but it would not drive i pulled over turned my car off and tried to turn it on agian but it wouldnt start just cranks
It could be a number of things. First thing I would check is either your coil pack or distributor whichever vehicle you have. in the future if you have any questions please post on my forum. I answer questions there. www.Nthefastlane.com/forum
Not true. If it was a timing belt, Her RPM's wouldn't have dropped because the crank position sensor would still be sending signals to the ECU. She mentioned she could hear the engine revving up but not showing any RPM. This leads me to believe that it very well could be the Crank Position Sensor (CPS). These are signs of a bad crank position sensor. RPM's dropping,engine still running, then when engine shuts off or stalls out it doesn't start back up again.
Hell yeah Just bought a 1998 for couple hundred owner said it just stopped running thought it was time but the belt is brand new and it has fuel just no spark. I’m gonna go back and check on this crank sensor
First you need to make sure the fuel pump's priming, if it's not, then it could be your main relay. I'll post a link for that repair below. The next thing it could be is you are not getting 12 volts to the coil packs. You're going to have to troubleshoot that. Pull a spark plug, leaving the spark plug attached to the coil pack, ground it to the valve cover/bolt while cranking the engine, if it sparks you're good. If all else fails, your timing might be off, not enough compression in the cylinders due to bad piston rings, bent valves, or a bad ECU. Link to main relay replacement/repair: www.nthefastlane.com/car-cranks-wont-start-no-fuel
I have an intermittent no start. Usually only when cold then a high idle. I've code dtcs for the ect, replaced that and rechecked. All ok. Bled the coolant. Cleaned the FITV and the IACV, throttle body and intake manifold and egr chamber and tube. The car starts up after about 8 tries cranking it every morning and idles good with the IACV unplugged I'm gonna replace it tomorrow and retest. It's a 97 TL 2.5 not many seem to know about it lol good luck y'all
this exact same thing happened to my 98 civic....I have fuel but no spark.....I know the new sensor isn't a defect bc I checked the injectors with a noid light....could u elaborate on the part u were saying about the cam sensor in the distributor for me?
need help...my car have stall then cant sstart at all...they said ist my ICM....then i replace it...it start then when the engine start hot its died then cant start..when i check the injector the negative side doesnt throw any pulse...pls help me sir..
Young dude...Its great to see "scripture" on your video...means you're not ashamed of the Gospel of Christ, and I respect you big time for that !! Go head on..my brother. Lift up Jesus and he will draw all men unto Himself. God Bless you and your business....Stephen
So i have a 02 accord 4 cyl sedan. After having it sit for 2 weeks and i went to start it it refuses to start the fuel pump wont come on and engine light is one. So it cranks and turns over perfectly but wont start. I have an obd scanner coming in the mail in 2 weeks but want to figure this out asap. I removed the fuel pump and connectes it to the battery directly and it comes on and works fine. I changed the main relay and it made no difference. when ever i connect the pump to the car it wont come on. Also even thought the battery is full whenever i crank the car in that breif moment all the lights come off and the clock resets. I canot even get windows to move. Any advise would help
Spray starter fluid in the exhaust hose that goes to throttle; sounds like your having same problems as me; but before you buy any expensive parts, check for vaccuum leaks, just has to buy a small hose and reconnect it to a valve coming from my engine to that same black hose i mentioned earlier above; 2 weeks is a cosiderably long time for an old car to be sitting up; so just follow my steps gg.
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hey i have a civic 99 and i was driving it came to a stop sign and it shut off tried turning it on and it cranks but no start what could it be?
I would like to say thank you. My gf and I were out and about and we were driving her 2000 Honda Accord. The engine wouldn’t start but it kept cranking. I was like oh man what are we gonna do. It was about 96° out and we were stuck. I did a quick google search and your video popped up. I watched the first few minutes. I got out of the car and I said I think I know what it is. I went ahead and popped the hood, detached the cable and reconnected it. I turned the key and boooyah! It started!!! You should have seen the look on my gf’s face went I did it… the look of hot dammmm babe!!
Thanks for the pointer and for making me look like the hero for the day!! Lol
Hoping I can have this feeling all to myself when I fix this $600 01’ civic I just got lol
No starts are the worst. Especially when you've just built the motor and your're thinking "this could be a paperweight if things don't work out". Good advice.
***** Thanks Christian.
I have 2001 Honda Civic. Car doesn't starts in the cold weather. When the weather is good, it starts usually. What could be reason?
I love you. Thank you. You just confirmed my problem. I just didn’t know that an alternator belt could cut it like that.
This has happened to me before and i fixed it and it worked fired right up now you just gave me hope because recently iv picked up another one and i have this issue crank no start appreciate it man
U should of showed the sound of the car before u started it
I have 2001 Honda Civic. Car doesn't starts in the cold weather. When the weather is good, it starts usually. What could be reason?
@@Xarataa5654 oil too thick when cold maybe?
Wow, that's exactly what mine did. Thank you for sharing. Helped a lot.
Finally found a possible solution to my problem. My car starts but sometimes after a drive it won't start and I have to wait about 10 minutes for the car to cool down and it will start again
You could also have a bad coil inside your distributor. Sometimes they overheat and short out.
@@Nthefastlane oh okay, I've also read that it might also be the ignition control module . Thank You!
@@morpheus101a Yes it could be that to. One other thing to check is your main relay. If you turn your key two clicks and you don't hear a hum in the backseat, more than likely it's the main relay. It's located driver side left foot under the dash.
@@Nthefastlane Wil do. Thanks again!
I Have The Same Exact Problem I ate going to go get gas and Have to wait about 10 minutes there 🤦
Haha. Having a crap day. Thanks for the verse and the vid.
My son's car crank but wouldn't start. I'll send your video to him n have him check it out. Many thanks
Excellent video. Just picked up a '99 that started hard. Cranks, cranks. Turn off key. Cranks, then starts. It also had no alternator belt or a AC belt when I got it. Maybe the belts went and cut the CPS wires
What was the main issue because my 2000 is doing the same thing?
Your video is an answered prayer. May GOD bless you .
Great video, especially the part about the position line up with the distributor
Jaheel Frederick Thanks Jaheel, I try to give as much accurate info as possible.
Nthefastlane ive had that issue already LOL ,great stuff man
Just changed the inner seal of distributor, fitted back but didn't start instead and small blast sound after some a few attempts. Rotated the shaft 180 deg but not it refuses to fit back, tried a lot of positions but the distributor doesn't sit neatly and stops 0.5 inches before the full seating. Any idea
The most helpful video. Thank you. 💖
Thank you so much for update on cps,i will check my car 2morow again.starter kicks but engine not up ,even check light turn on.i suspect mouse might bite my cps wires😅😊tqsm really helpful infomation👌👍
My 95 Accord LX (non VTEC) only does the crank/no start after driving in heavy rain…then after a day or 2 of dry conditions it will fire back up. Could this be the same issue or do you have any ideas of something else I should check?
Hi Sensatious,
It could be, but I would suggest the next time it won't start, have a look under the passenger side glove box to the right. The panel comes off by your right foot.
The "ECU and Main Relay" are located there. A lot of times water likes to drip down the corner of the windshield seal or the top roof weather stripping, the caulking gets a crack in it. They might be getting water on them and shorting out. In some cases you might have to remove the vent underneath the windshield where the wiper motors are. There will be caulking with cracks in it there as well.
Hope this helps.
@@Nthefastlane I’ll definitely give that a look when I get some time…I’ll write back on here if in case anyone else finds this comment. Thanks for the video and reply 😎
I have ls vtec. 98 ek civic ex harness. Running obd1 p28 with jumper. Do i need a crank position sensor? Cranks no start but that sensor on ls block is a two pin and the connector on ex harness is 3 pin plug so its not connected. Is this a problem
Thanks! I forgot about this.
What year civic is that?
I believe it might have been a 1999. Either way it was a 99-00
Hello, I was wondering if I could get some help... I have a 99 Honda Civic Ex that has trouble starting. I have to crank it quite some few times then it starts rattles a bit then idles high then back to normal. Drives normal doesn't seem to have trouble just when starting. I get a lot of fuel smell but im guessing thats becuase I crank it so much. Also have a P0420 code. Any ideas? Thanks i. Advance.
Do you possibly think you is what’s wrong with my car. I have a 96 Honda Civic ex, brand new alternator, battery, fuel pump, spark plugs and wires. Car still cranks but won’t start. Could be the crankshaft sensor?
Katie Cunningham, check for loose ground connections. Do you have a DVM (digital volt meter)?
From the front of the car, look on left side for the Starter.
Check that Ground wire that is connected to Starter.
Youve probably heard this a lot but here is my problem.... I took one plug out to check if it was bad then put it back in... Torqued it to spec and it would not start. I cleaned the dizzy cap.. I changed all the plugs and gapped to spec. Next I checked to see if I got spark by grounding all spark plugs to wires out of chamber and I can see spark on all of them. I'm so clue less I don't think it can be ignition can it? And I know fuel is working because I can smell it... Next I don't think it could be timing because I didn't even touch that
Ashwin Sivaainkaran Replace the main relay under your left foot and on the side wall above the fuse box. More then likely that is your problem. The main relay turns the fuel pump on, very common problem on all 92-00 honda civic's.
Driver side
But the problem is I can hear the fuel pump prime on my integra as well
Do you think it could be a dizzy problem because I know it's a missfire due to the fact of my obd2 reader but I'm getting spark?
I bought a Honda that starts but has a rough idle. And the check engine light reads P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor Range/Performance. I dont know if i should start at the sensor on the block like yours or the distributor. Im getting conflicting information. Its a 1997 Civic EX D16y8
This thing drives me crazy now, my 1992 honda civic vx D15Z1 with new distributor cranks but really struggling to start up I had to step the gas several times. The car runs smooth and no loss of power when it starts up. I am thinking of the issue of CPS but I can’t find the correct parts, do you have a part number for it please?
The first 3 things I would look into would be the fuel filter, spark plugs/spark plug gap and a possible vacuum leak somewhere.
The next 2 I would look at would be the mass air flow sensor and O2 sensor.
It won't hurt to change out the spark plug wires if you haven't already either.
A tricky one that's kind of a hit or miss is the engine "Coolant Temp Sensor". If this sensor malfunctions it'll make the vehicle run too rich at start, causing a rough start. This sensor sends a signal to the ECU affecting air/fuel ratio.
Hmmm maybe my 1998 honda civix DX the wire ripped i havent checked ... one day i was coming back from thw store when my battery light came on so i thought it was my alternator... so i went and bought a new one replaced it but still it wouldnt start... then i went to buy a new battery thought that was the problem and still no crank every time i turned the key the motor would just rotate and didnt start... today i changed my fuel filter but still nothing... it keeps doing the same thing motor just keeps on rotating.. but doesnt crank ill definitely check out the wiring to see if mine didnt rip it off
thanks alot u just saved me alot of money I just bought a 95 and it has Dat same problem
You're a genius like scannerdanner...
Best video but wish i could hear the old sound vs new
Those connecters are called beanies. We use them for telecommunications
Hey I have a 1998 Honda accord, 2.3 vtec, 5spd. My ac leaks on the passenger side somewhere so I try not to use it, I was driving and using my ac(dumb choice) and my car died 15 minutes into driving. It would crank no start. P1382 CEL code. I’ve replaced distributor, tested alternator, checked fuses, swapped in ECM/ignition and still same CEL and crank no start. I’m stuck on what to do next
What about obd1? Because my car has no crank sensor but I have no fuel no spark and no tach, my understanding is that my crank sensor doubles off the cam sensor in the distributor
If you're still around, id like to ask you about my 1st gen CR-V. Maybe you could shed some light. Motor swap. No check engine light. Running great. Cold snap/won't start. Getting air/fuel, fire/compression. Before the motor swap, I DID replace cap and rotor. Any ideas? It got negative degrees out and just wouldn't fire up. But get this! I pulled the fuel rail off to check brand new injectors and it fired and briefly ran with the fuel rail off! Starting fluid doesn't do anything. Im wondering if I got some bad fuel and it's just too cold to combust before it's flooding it? Idk. Cranks strong, battery is good.
When you did the motor swap did you swap over the distributor from the runnning engine? Did the new motor come with its own set of injectors and a distributor? It could be a couple of things, crank position sensor, or it could also be the distributors "Ignition Spark Control Module Ignito". The coil pack inside the distributor could be weak or bad also. It may put out a little bit of spark, but it might not be hot enough.
@@Nthefastlane I've been driving it for about a month or a little more. I used the old distributor with a new cap and rotor. Brand new injectors for the B20. They are correct and working well. The weirdest thing is, when we lifted off the fuel rail to make sure the injectors were doing their job, it fired and briefly ran with the fuel that was sitting in it! Checked all plugs on the valve cover and they are throwing huge spark. The crank positioning sensor was a special consideration during the motor swap cuz the last one was barely wired up. So we took extra consideration making sure this one was proper. After watching your video and a couple others, I'm wondering if it is indeed, the coil pack. But I'm not sure yet. Those injectors look like they are dumping a lot of fuel, could it be the fuel regulator on the fuel rail? It may be the proper amount of fuel, but when it would fire without the fuel rail/injectors in, we'd try to gradually put the injectors in as it fired and it was like it was flooding it out. Maybe the spark isn't great enough and it's a coil pack issue...at any rate, I appreciate your reply. You're the only person who has gotten back to me.
I would check the injector clips, after I did that and it still didn't run I would swap out the fuel rail and injectors from the other engine. It could be the fuel pressure regulator. I would first swap out the fuel rail with the new injectors, and then swap out the old injectors see which one makes a difference. Sometimes it's just a matter of troubleshooting the least expensive parts first. If you already have used parts that are known to be working I would use those as test pieces such as all the old parts from your original running engine.
I try to get back with and help people. When you get hundreds of messages it can be challenging to keep up, but I give it a good effort.
@@Nthefastlane I understand, and I stand behind everything you just said. My buddy gets off work at 3 p.m. today then he's coming over to help me. Im gonna do just that. We considered the fuel regulator. We're gonna slap a different one on when he gets off. I will definitely let you know what we figure out.
@@Nthefastlane I pulled the distributor cap off. The bottom bolt was loose. There was an oily substance around the bottom of the cap. Inside, the contact points had white corrosion, as if they'd gotten wet, then electrolysis took place while it was firing. On one side of the edge of the rotor, it looked a little "burnt", but that may be normal. Also, that little "nubby" with the spring behind it in the center of the inside of the cap wasn't poking out very far until I cleaned it. Still, only fired initially...then acted like it's flooding again...i think it's a firing issue. And God knows how old that distributor is. Plus, I may have removed too much material from the contact points in the cap. Shavings after I sanded the corrosion....have you come across having to replace distributors very often on Hondas? My buddy has some good distributors laying around and we are gonna slap one on that we know is working and see if we just aren't getting enough fire. Hope that takes care of it. I'll know more on Saturday.
Just curious did it still give you a light spark at the sparkplugs still before the repair? I'm going through the same thing with a 2000 civic d16 vtec model with distributor. We changed the fuel pump, main relay, ecu, wiring, grounds, distributor, alternator, battery, intake manifold gasket, and sparkplugs. Timing belt and tensioner is still good but it looks smutty up in there. Think the sensor may be dirty or bad? It acts like it wants to start but never does.
Check your main plug connection by the master clutch cylinder reservoir and brake booster. I had mine disconnected for a little bit and it got just a little bit of corrosion on some of the pins. Turned out it wasn't applying a correct voltage to the distributor. I troubleshooted for an entire week and finally found that to be the problem. Cleaned the pins and put a little electrical grease on the pins. Once I did that I never had another issue.
Also if you think they're making a weak connection grab some needle nose pliers and give them just a slight little twist so they make better contact.
What sensor was bad or how did you fix it I'm having the same problem and replaced everything you stated above
I have a 1995 Honda Civic dx that will not start but it will crank,I replaced all the sensors and ecu and distributer,sparks plug and wires,main relay .could it be the crankshaft positioning sensor?
Does this effect the injectors or will they still trip a noid light?
thanks a lot buddy!! this video helped me a lot. the same thing happened to my car.
+mamba007m16 Anytime buddy.
Did your check engine light stay on after you did it?
mamba007m16 did your check engine light stay on after you did the job I'm having the same problem now
My car has new everything does this same thing but I'm not getting a code. Should I still change the sensor? Even if no code for that shows up?
Bro this video help me thank you so much
Hi there! I had a question if you can help me I have a 2000 Honda Civic with 330k miles. I was driving to work on Monday about an hour into driving on freeway. I was trying to give it gas to speed up and it wasn’t trying to let me give it gas felt like it was like sputtering/misfiring/slowing down type. So I got off the freeway as I hit the stop sign went to 0mph the car turned off tried to start it up again but it wouldn’t let me. I changed the fuel filter, fuel pump, and fuel relay under dash. It started up for like a min rpms we’re going up and down and as I was trying to rev it up it was having a hard time and then all of a sudden it died. Tried starting back up a couple times and I drained battery trying too. Any help please
I would pull your spark plugs and check them for fouling, you could have fouled spark plugs. If you drive on fouled spark plugs too long they'll melt your valves. If the spark plugs check out fine it could be the distributor, the coil pack could have gone out. If you end up replacing the distributor and everything starts running fine I would definitely change out the plugs and wires as well. Make sure you put some dielectric grease at each end of the spark plug wire connectors.
The next thing I would do is check your catalytic converter. If it got clogged up, or maybe the ceramic inside closed off that will do it.
Nthefastlane okay thank you very much. Btw no check engine light has popped up.
@RaspyStarks Hi ,did you ever fix that issue? Some advice would really help
@@jonathantorres5803 wow forgot about this comment.. so since I wrote this comment.. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, new cap and rotor, pcv valve, o2 sensor,
I got it started cause of the Fuel injectors .. I got OEM refurbished fuel injectors off of eBay.. but maybe 1 or 2 of them injectors are NOT any good.. the car starts every time but ON cold starts it Boggs down and wants to die.. you gotta give it gas for a few seconds than it’s okay. When it’s warmed up it doesn’t give me any issues.. so I’m assuming I just gotta get some brand new fuel injectors (which are like 98$ each @AutoZone
I've got a 99 civic cx. I replaced the fuel filter and the car fired right up but died about a minute later. The fuel pump is working, there's fuel pressure and I've retraced my steps & all looks well. Engine cranks. I left the car over night thinking it was flooded but still won't start. Any advice?
izzy s did you get this solved?
Honda's are notorious for having a bad Camshaft Position Sensor. The check engine light will not come on. The dealer told me to install a new sensor- and it started right up. It is a flaw in the engineering of the Honda PCM. The CEL should come on to help guide the the technician- but in Honda's case it usually doesn't.
Damn. Gotta try this on my daughter's car
Im having a simular issue, but i have spark and fuel. would i have spark if its my cps? or the cam sensor on the distributor. ? thanks.
Thank you so much! Very useful !
What if the car cranks, will not start and you cannot move the shifter out of park without putting a screw driver into the "bypass" switch? It will also not start in neutral.
The no start possibly doesn't have anything to do with the shifter selector.
If you are speaking of an automatic, then I would look at the brake pedal switch. This switch engages the brake lights. This switch also engages the automatic release of "Park" when the brake pedal is pressed so it can be moved to Neutral, Drive and Reverse.
The no start could be several things varying from distributor, cam sensor, lack of 5 volts to the distributor, bad ECU, bad fuel pump, bad fuel pump relay ect.
I just had my 99 civic dx do the same thing after it stalled abruptly at 40 mph. It's been lagging for weeks, like gas is restricted and I'm heavy on the gas pedal. I'd have to cut A/C to not stall when idling. This last and maybe 5th stall was the worst. Other times car stalled but kicked back on or motor started as soon as I cranked it. This time I couldn't get it to neutral from park to push it off street til using the release slot. Stuck in park a few times. I hear fuel pump. Cranks fine. Fuel filter? I know next to nothing about cars. It started fine the days before, and 15 minutes before the last stall. Just seemed starved of gas while accelerating or w AC on. I read all the possibilities above. Does this description maybe eliminate some of those? Thx
@@Nthefastlane Thank you! Cars have gotten a lot more complicated sense I started working on them (40 years ago). Still researching the problem. I replaced the break pedal switch and the little plastic button that the switch lands on a few weeks ago. Thought it was fixed but nope. I read that you should turn the ignition on and press the gas pedal down slowly and the brake at the same time and try to shift. That worked at least once so yesterday, I replaced the throttle position sensor. If fixed, I will be good! If not, I am thinking the ecu.
Thanks 👍
Hello Friend, why does my 96 Civic car not have a crankshafr sensor, is it normal or what? D16A engine
Trying to figure out what is going on with mine! Im wondering if this is my problem! My wife was driving one day and both the belts ended up busted. Replace them and the car ran fine for a few miles. Then just shut off! Im wondering if this has something to do with it!
My '96 Civic won't start when the motor is warm. Has fuel, spark and compression. Timing belt replaced 5,000 miles ago.
hi, what could be the cause that my prelude only starts after it cranks 5-6 times? Thanks
WEak bettery or starter motor.
Hi my friend, how are you? I have a Honda Accord 95 EX VTec and I don't see the wires of the crank position. Do you know where it is located?Thank you.
"92-95" Honda Civics CKP are located in the distributor.
"96-00" Honda Civics CKP are located behind the crank shaft gear on the block behind the timing cover as demonstrated in this video.
Pre "96" Honda Accords CKP are found in the distributor.
Hi, thank you for anwering me. But, I don't see it inside the distributor? Or close to?
Hi, I took off the distributor cap and I saw the igniter, the coil, rotor but how is that part, crank position sensor? Do you have any distributor hitachi for honda 95/4C to show me what part is it? Thank again.
Look under schematics on my website. Link:www.nthefastlane.com/File-Cabinet
A little help plz. Got a 97 civic 1.6 sohc cranks but wont start. At first it had no spark so ended up changing the distributor and got the spark bu wouldnt turn on. Long story short ended up checking fuses, main relay, spark plug cables, spark plugs, fuel pump, fuel injectors, crank shaft sensor and still nothing. Inserted scanner and it read backfire on piston 4 and 2 so checked timing and it turns out that timing was wrong. placed timing in correct position, Took engine head to the shop and checked valves, got a new head gasket placed everything in place and still no start. Any Tips and advice would be helpfull.
Run a compression check. Pull the distributor cap and rotor off and test for 12v. Make sure your firing order is correct. Link to my website: www.nthefastlane.com/File-Cabinet Go to Dseries section and look at (D16 FIRING ORDER).
Ok thank you for the fast reply . Ran compression test and it drops lower than 50 on two cilinders but all seem un even. what do u recomend? possibly new piston rings?
Watch these videos. If this doesn't work it's definitely your rings. I believe I explain it in the video. Watch ALL 3 videos. Please give a thumb up. Really helps.
Leak Down For Blown Head Gasket: www.nthefastlane.com/Diagnostics/leak-down-test-how-to
Leak Down Test For Valves: th-cam.com/video/plpLZeM9ZbU/w-d-xo.html
Compression test: www.nthefastlane.com/Diagnostics/compression-test-how-to
Nthefastlane thank you the videos were great. Next step will be piston rings
Jorge Martinez Got you covered on that. Here: www.nthefastlane.com/Engine-Block/clockinggapping--installing-pistons-properly-honda
My car starts up sometimes when ever I give it starter fluid it starts to start up but then does something weird and it doesn’t fully start basically but my car doesn’t start up sometimes a couple times when I was receiving the cranking issue after waiting 10 minutes I heard one click Coming from the engine bay then I tried to start it again and I started right up I’ve replaced distributor I don’t know what’s wrong it’s a 98 Civic dx hatchback
Are you saying that your starter is not spinning the engine? Or the starter is spinning the engine and it's just not firing?
Nthefastlane it spinning I believe but unsure I’ll have to check up on it it sounds like it wants to start but whenever I put starter fluid it starts to turn over but then starts to shake badly then it fails to start
@@aquazie5928 Hey that is your fuel its cloggex up and needs cleaning I'll walk u through it very easy wont cost u a penny hit me up
Got a 01 Honda civic 1.7 manual... during the cold I would have to tap on the gas pedal to start up cold... and now it doesn't start at all...it only cranks...doesnt he start pushstarting it...timing belt good
Never seen those 3m connectors. Beats seeing sugar cubes :p
Butt connectors would be more common.
I have a honda fit GD1 2004 model after I changed fuel it's not starting even with the old one
wait a minute, so this issue with give you no spark at the distributor?
I have a feeling this is my problem. i was told a month ago i needed a new crankshaft sensor. my serpentine belt broke and the loose bottom timing cover got caught in the harmonic balancer. i hope this is my problem and not a timing problem :(
Here’s my issue and hopefully you or your viewers can give me an advice. My car started failing to start till came to no start at all. I pulled out the starter, took to o’Reilly they tested it with bad results. I put a used one in, it took about 3 shots to start it. But again it’s starting with some problems to start. A day the replacement it took me about 3 attempts for it to start. Do you it’s still the starter or something else??
My Honda civic has a new a starter distributor cap rotor and igniter new plug wires and radiator it started right up drove it for 3 days and got it smoged drove great and the next day it turned over and now start
Can you tell me why my accord isn’t starting ,replace fuel pump ,temperature gauge ,the main relay wasn’t working so we hooked a flip switch to it and fuel pump turns on, but the car won’t turn on now , crank no start please someone help me is it the starter module?
Can you do a video of a 2012 honda civic lx 1.8 liter of where the crank position sensor is located thanks Reyes
what is it connected to?
whats the name of the cps connected too?
Pito
Same problem with my 98 Honda about to go check it out
Mine cranks but when you remove the map sensor plug it starts but the moment you put the plug back it just cranks and with another sensor engine light stays on and cranks only
Do you know if this would cause the ECU not to have power?
No, but it is a sensor that if the ecu knows it aint there by being unplugged, damaged or just old it wont run it self.but when you turn on key check engine light turn on and goes off or stays on means the ecu got power
Does it cause the check light to come on in the dashboard
I'm going to have to see if this is what going on with mine. I love my crv but she won't crank. When she starts she will drive for mins or hours but once its turned off she will not crank again sometimes its is just hours other times its days before it will crank again. I hear the engine attempting to get ready but not turn over. I lost count of how much money we spent replacing everything we could think of.
Nope not this issue we have. We followed every line we could see nothing has a crack or cut line.
I have a similar issue with my 95 Honda sometimes it doesn't start on a cold start and then once it does start it starts to sputter and then check engine light comes on but if I would have set it off it would not start almost like the vehicles flooded and then maybe 20 minutes later it'll start up and then I got to hit the gas a lot and then a little spark comes out the muffler sometimes
How did you fix it
Will that wire stop it from fuel pump turning on
My 04 civic a turn over but it won't start i'm wondering if that's my problem
Good stuff man! Thanks!! 😎✌🤘
Good job !!
What size engine is that D16 orD15
Dude ur vid only one of hundreds that explains eat was wrong w/ my car! Dam senser wire cut thru 2nd the 3wires from the timing belt!! Idk Y there isnt a bracket to hold it back from the belts
my honda civic 2000 model hard to start in the morning what could be problem.it has a v-tec engine
I have a 01 Honda CR-V.. no lights are on, has been running GREAT... and then all of the sudden I’m having issues turning it on. Don’t know what to do or where to start 😭 sometimes it turns on, other times it won’t.
That intro was .... cool 😎
Thanks for the video! Can you describe the no-start condition it was in? Was the starter motor turning but not engaging the flywheel to turn the engine over? That's what mine is now doing after I just changed the cam & crank shaft oil seals & the timing belt on my '97 Accord 2.2L. My car was running fine before, so I'm wondering if I may have damaged the CKP or TDC sensor when I cleaned all the oil grime off them with a paper towel soaked with brake cleaner.
No, this particular issue had to do with the crank positioning sensor. The engine would turn over, "the starter would spin the flywheel/crankshaft". If you hear your starter spinning, and it's not turning the engine over, more than likely it is a bad bendix in the starter The bendix is a gear in the starter that shoots out when the starter engages, and meets with the flywheel teeth to turn the engine over. Basically, time to buy a new starter.
One possible test would be, with the engine off, put a 17mm socket on the crank bolt, turn the crank a few turns, take the wrench off, and try to start again. If the engine turns over this time, you have missing teeth on the flywheel, if that's the case, you need a new flywheel, and possibly a starter. The teeth on the starter can go bad as well.
Thanks for replying! As far as the crank position sensor goes, on my 97 Accord it is called the CKP sensor.
I was also debating whether it could be the starter bendix, but what are the chances it or the flywheel teeth happens to go bad on the first attempt to start the car after doing a timing belt job? I'm going to try to find a wiring diagram. I'm wondering: could Honda have set it up so that if the computer doesn't detect the proper signals from the CKP/TDC sensor combo (that I cleaned), it will disable power to the bendix while still allowing the starter motor to turn? The purpose being to protect the valves from being slapped by the pistons if attempting to start while out of time. If it's setup so that the bendix is always energized when the starter motor is, then it's a bad bendix or damaged flywheel teeth.
OK, forget what I said about the starter not engaging the flywheel. My daughter watched the crank pulley & it IS turning. I did what you said above, except I went a step further by getting the #1 piston back at TDC in order to see if the scenario would repeat itself. I also checked the resistance of both CKP/TDC sensors via the 4-pin connector by the timing belt cover (1925 ohms, within spec). Previously, I was assuming the bendix wasn't engaging the flywheel based on the sound/feel (seemed to turn faster & higher pitch). I'm wondering if a fuse is blown. I wonder if initially I didn't re-seat the CKP/TDC connector fully. After I checked the resistance, when I put it back together, I heard a more pronounced click.
I got it running!! All it was is that the fuel drained back to the tank & after I turned the ign switch off & on several times the pump finally got fuel back to the injectors. Scared me... seemed like had no compression.
OMG😱😱😱you are a life saver🙏🏽💯😘❤️
sir my same honda city crank but no start petrol is coming too much in sparg pulg sensor pro ??? help mi
Question i was driving on the high way going about 70 when my rpms dropped i could hear the engine accelerating when i stepped on the gas but it would not drive i pulled over turned my car off and tried to turn it on agian but it wouldnt start just cranks
It could be a number of things. First thing I would check is either your coil pack or distributor whichever vehicle you have. in the future if you have any questions please post on my forum. I answer questions there. www.Nthefastlane.com/forum
sounds like a timing belt
I second the timing belt
Not true. If it was a timing belt, Her RPM's wouldn't have dropped because the crank position sensor would still be sending signals to the ECU. She mentioned she could hear the engine revving up but not showing any RPM.
This leads me to believe that it very well could be the Crank Position Sensor (CPS). These are signs of a bad crank position sensor. RPM's dropping,engine still running, then when engine shuts off or stalls out it doesn't start back up again.
crank position sensor is in the dizzy........what your referring to is called a crank fluctuation sensor
Apparently they call it both when ordering one. CKF or CPS. Pretty much the same meaning. But from Honda, CKF would be the correct terminology.
Good find, bad choice of connectors.
those are 3m scotchloks those are for telco telephone lines. lol but they work
Hell yeah Just bought a 1998 for couple hundred owner said it just stopped running thought it was time but the belt is brand new and it has fuel just no spark. I’m gonna go back and check on this crank sensor
Awesome! Thanks.
Was it throwing a check engine light?
tubejim101 I recorded this about a yr ago so off the top of my head I would say yes, but I can not accurately say it was because of the "CPS"
Having this issue with my 2002 civic dx. Changed fuel pump, crank & camshaft sensors, and fuel pump relay. Still having this issue. Any suggestions?
First you need to make sure the fuel pump's priming, if it's not, then it could be your main relay. I'll post a link for that repair below.
The next thing it could be is you are not getting 12 volts to the coil packs. You're going to have to troubleshoot that. Pull a spark plug, leaving the spark plug attached to the coil pack, ground it to the valve cover/bolt while cranking the engine, if it sparks you're good.
If all else fails, your timing might be off, not enough compression in the cylinders due to bad piston rings, bent valves, or a bad ECU.
Link to main relay replacement/repair: www.nthefastlane.com/car-cranks-wont-start-no-fuel
You work on cars at a storage unit?
Commercial Warehouse.
I have an intermittent no start. Usually only when cold then a high idle. I've code dtcs for the ect, replaced that and rechecked. All ok. Bled the coolant. Cleaned the FITV and the IACV, throttle body and intake manifold and egr chamber and tube. The car starts up after about 8 tries cranking it every morning and idles good with the IACV unplugged I'm gonna replace it tomorrow and retest. It's a 97 TL 2.5 not many seem to know about it lol good luck y'all
this exact same thing happened to my 98 civic....I have fuel but no spark.....I know the new sensor isn't a defect bc I checked the injectors with a noid light....could u elaborate on the part u were saying about the cam sensor in the distributor for me?
need help...my car have stall then cant sstart at all...they said ist my ICM....then i replace it...it start then when the engine start hot its died then cant start..when i check the injector the negative side doesnt throw any pulse...pls help me sir..
Where are you
Young dude...Its great to see "scripture" on your video...means you're not ashamed of the Gospel of Christ, and I respect you big time for that !! Go head on..my brother. Lift up Jesus and he will draw all men unto Himself. God Bless you and your business....Stephen
I have a 2001 honda accord no spark no start help
My sensor is good any other reasons it wouldn’t stArt
So i have a 02 accord 4 cyl sedan.
After having it sit for 2 weeks and i went to start it it refuses to start the fuel pump wont come on and engine light is one. So it cranks and turns over perfectly but wont start. I have an obd scanner coming in the mail in 2 weeks but want to figure this out asap.
I removed the fuel pump and connectes it to the battery directly and it comes on and works fine. I changed the main relay and it made no difference. when ever i connect the pump to the car it wont come on. Also even thought the battery is full whenever i crank the car in that breif moment all the lights come off and the clock resets. I canot even get windows to move.
Any advise would help
Check the main body ground wire.
Spray starter fluid in the exhaust hose that goes to throttle; sounds like your having same problems as me; but before you buy any expensive parts, check for vaccuum leaks, just has to buy a small hose and reconnect it to a valve coming from my engine to that same black hose i mentioned earlier above; 2 weeks is a cosiderably long time for an old car to be sitting up; so just follow my steps gg.
@@brionadderley1643 turn out i had a bad ground. I fixed that and everything was fine after that
Crank but injector not function..what the solutions..oil function all goid...buat injector 1234 lost help me😅
What does the cps connect to. PLEASE HELP
Did you finally find out we’re it connects too?
ff gg no never lol my car is dead af and does it go into the black plastic
I changed my gas cap now my engine won't start what do I do!!!!