My Car Died - Cranks But Won't Start
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- My car cranks but won't start. Driving home in my 1999 Acura Integra the engine suddenly shut off. After pulling to the curb, the car would crank but it could not start. This video will go through the troubleshooting process of determining why the car wouldn't start. When there's no spark at the plugs, it's important to check the wires, ignition coil (ignitor), ignition control module, and the distributor for any issues. This will show how to change a distributor.
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This was a very high caliber video! It's gets right down to what people want to see, I (and I'm sure others) would greatly appreciate more of these types of videos working on various parts of the car. I know you mentioned already that you were working on these types of videos but I would like to show support for them regardless :)
For anyone watching, if you hold the screwdriver as demonstrated at 1:14, you'll be in for a shocking surprise if the ignition system is working. The screwdriver should be held by the handle.
Additionally, when replacing a distributor, it's position in reference to the engine should be marked and transferred to the new one. The three mounting holes are elongated to adjust the base timing on your engine, and the new distributor should be installed in the same position as the old one.
Dude...thanks for all these informative videos you make. I can't imagine how many people you're spreading good and reliable knowledge and insight to. Keep doing what you do. Godspeed
Short, concise and simple! This dude is great at what he does....he's approach is analytical and logical (due to his engineering background) thus, he is able to get points across really well and straight-forward.
A good useful tip would be take pictures with your phone of how everything looks before you start taking apart anything. I know this step save me a lot of headache.
+Elephant Yup. And it applies not only to cars, but also various electronics.
+Elephant im a surgeon and i do that all the time
+nacokid hahaha you made me spit my drink out!
+nacokid that is grade A++ messed up
+DrathVader houses too! if you ever have the drywall of your wall, take a picture. then you know about where various electrical, gas, and water lines are at in the future
This was a pretty good video, but as someone who went thru a no start situation recently I think it would be awesome if you showed everyone how to diagnose all the issues. like spraying starting fluid to confirm its fuel related, or just a little more in-depth to the other
Could you please make more integra videos?? I love that car. Also, these engine repair videos are EXTREMELY helpful, i'm learning A LOT!! Make more!
That mechanical rotor system is certainly old school, even for 1999. I thought the spinning-contact rotors went out years before that?
Have you tried turning it off and turning it back on again?
+ElementalMapping You must be a very good IT professional!
+Gears and Gasoline Close all open windows and try again...
+Gears and Gasoline lol. you got him right.
+Gears and Gasoline Oh, I know, this thread has me laughing hard!
Is it smart or just pride that gets me to fix it without turning it off most of the time? Resetting it would honestly be quicker if it is the solution.
+ElementalMapping noooo... That ONLY works to fix the WINDOWS!
Before giving advice on fixing cars you need to start the video by saying
"Rev up your engines!"
I'm a total Honda guy. Not a ricer, I love a good near-stock Honda with tasteful mods.
Nice, freakin', car; man.
Keep up the amazing videos and thanks for the time you put in.
Do not forget about the "universal truth."
Make sure to make a disclaimer about different types of ignition systems. This is a great method for distributor driven systems. Doing the same method on more advanced systems will throw all kinds of codes, and could possibly damage modules by using a test light.
This was a great video! Good call on getting AutoZone on the same page.
A few things:
- Fortunately in this case the spark loss was due to the distributor - however ideally the diagnosis would go one step further to try to rule out a bad cam/crank position sensors. Many cars will show a low rpm reading on the tach during cranking if the cam or crank signals are present - no rpm reading coudl mean the crank/cam sensor. I would hate to see someone spend over 200 smacks on a distributor and find the problem is elsewhere. I understand in your case the dizzy was damaged during disassembly.
- Compression can go to 0 instantly if the timing belt/chain breaks. That could also result in no spark (and no injector pulse) depending on if it uses a crank or cam sensor. If the engine can still turn over then a classic symptom is the engine cranking much faster than normal.
- If you are going to test spark to ground, make sure the metal ground is close than your fingers. I'm not sure I'd trust the rubber glove.
If timing belt slipped would that also cause no spark and no compression?
Your crankshafts condenser isn't giving spark to the brakes. That's most likely the problem
Finally I know what to replace, the hood latch!
+Engineering Explained lol
+SingleTurboSupra that is just a placebo effect from low blinker fluid
+SingleTurboSupra I don't think so i think problem is the exhaust explosion bearing or crankcase ceiling lamp
+Rentta you guys stop it, someone might take you seriously LMAO!! We all know that the problem is the Powersteering Dome light that causes the problem
I think this could be an excellent series! Although buying parts for an already working car just to show how to put new ones on would be a bit useless, the idea for a series on how to identify and rectify problems with a non-starting or rough running car would be quite good I think.
+IronBroadsword1 Check out Eric the car guy. That's exactly what he does and he mostly works on Hondas/Acuras
I think the distributor on my car just went out. Which is fantastic considering it had just been replaced 6 months ago.
This was convient. My uncles Navigator would crank but the engine refused to start yesterday. Think I'll let him know about the four things mentioned to see if he can narrow down the issue.
It would be great to see more practical videos like this. Your theory and review videos are always enjoyable and informative, but this adds another welcome element to the mix.
For some weird reason, now I fell the need to go to Autozone.
Great first repair video! Not the best I've seen but it was simple and right to the point. Can't wait to see the next one get better!
Just a suggestion, maybe make this a little more easily findable on youtube for people wanting to replace a distributor on their Integra. Something in the description perhaps about the year/make/model etc.Good video though!
That defeated sounding "hello everyone and welcome :(" in the beginning. An engineers worst nightmare.
An Engineer who can fix his own car !!!!, Thumbs up!!
Always detailed as can be in your videos, but when you put then new distributor on make sure u try to line up the timing through the adjustment on the 3 bolts holding on the distributor.
10 years later and finally an integra video yayyy
+boosted 2j I agree, MORE INTEGRA VIDEOS! :)
As the video implies, the lighting kit assembles easy into a Superliner (using version 2 of the lighting kit). What they don't show you in the video is as assembled, it's a poorly engineered kit. Electrical contact is very sketchy at best in the Superliner. I can have good contact before putting the car back together and by the time you snap it back into the car shell, electrical connection is lost. The contacts and physical configuration allows for light flicker. The PCB board assembly and the receptacle area on the Superliners are too flexible to hold the contact leads and PCB leads together with positive engagement, allowing them to shift around to create insufficient contact pressure or misalignment. To make them work reliably, you'll need to re-engineer things to insure positive electrical contact such as soldering jumpers wires between the board and contacts or shimming/taping things in place. If the kits were $5 a piece, I could see making these types of adjustments as justified but not at the price charged. Noticed the video producer did not demonstrate the lights were working on the Superliner after assembly. There's a reasonable chance that you'll need to take it apart after noticing it isn't working or you're getting a fair amount of light flicker as the car rolls down the track. This isn't up to the standards I have come to expect from Kato. Lighting a single lever coach is a little more straight forward (mounting location is more rigid versus the quite flexible upper level of Superliner cars) light flicker can still be a problem. These are not track related flickers. They are the result of poor contact between the PCB board assembly and contact strips. It's so easy to have problems and harder not to. This video leaves the viewer with the impression that all you need to do assemble things property and everything will be fine. The potential for error is good and it's best if you modify the install so it works reliably.
Compression, air, fuel and spark at the right time. That last part is important.
Good job on the diagnostic as far as figuring out you have no spark. However I would like to add some suggestions here to improve this. You saw that you had no spark from the ignition coil tower, you could have put a test light on the coil ground and see if you have any pulsing of the test lamp, if you do then you have a trigger signal. If you don't then you could have a problem from the pickup coil or a wiring issue. Or if you don't see the test lamp light on the ground and no switching of the light occurs, then you have a open in the primary circuit of the coil. With this Distributor being over 200 dollars I would want to check these other things first before putting one in. I enjoyed the video, you should do more of these.
The Integra videos make me miss my GSR so much. I had it in silver too. Informative video as always! Thanks 👍🏻
Wow! My integra died and this is the first video I found… Mines silver and everything! I obviously have a distributor problem.
Your videos are usually excellent, and you are a very talented "teacher", and a very intelligent person. Having said that, autozone is for cars like mcdonalds for people... and this distributor cannot go both ways...
you should do more of these what to do when your car is broken. very helpful!
+Rick Lobster Glad you enjoyed it! Thankfully it doesn't break too often haha. :)
+Engineering Explained very true that would be a bear
I did this for my Corolla but the weird thing is the timing didn't match my old distributor, so I had to mess with it. Although it is fixed now, the fun part of it all was backfiring when I revved high :) An economy car spitting flames is so cool!
Good work mate... Nice to see some DIY work instead of theoretical videos. Though they are just as interesting. Wish I could do a video of my Jag at the moment, as I am having it converted to run on LPG (aka Autogas - mix of propane and butane). Very interesting to see and run! :)
I had the same seized rotor issue on a 22 year old Civic; the corrosion over the years effectively welded it onto the distributor shaft, and all the usual efforts including a battery terminal puller (which was able to exert a great deal of force) proved fruitless.
I ended up damaging the TDC sensor when I unknowingly used it as a convenient prying point, which turned what should have been a 5 minute cap and rotor maintenance into a distributor replacement. With the gouges seen on the video, that's apparently the natural place to try prying, but beware....
Distributor has to be replaced when that goes because the sensor is not available as a replacement item, they made it captive with the harness, with Honda seeing fit to omit any connectors for the three position sensors in there. Because they never fail, they figure.
The correct way to remove that rotor insert from the distributor shaft is to use a dremel tool and slot through the insert at the screw hole area; then take a flat screwdriver and twist it open for clearance; turned out to be a fairly easy process that way. When you see the rust layer effectively acting as sandpaper grit on the surface, you'll know why there was no chance at all of sliding it off. If Honda made it out of nylon or some other material this wouldn't happen. Don't see any good reason why they had to make it with a encapsulated metal insert like that; it's hardly seeing any forces just sitting there like that. Either that or put some dielectric grease to forestall the corrosion, and it would withstand 22 years of Honda no-maintenance.
I was then able to install the replacement rotor but then found it started up but would only run a few minutes from cold. Turns out it was the cracked sensor; not simply the ICM or coil as I was hoping. So $85 for a new distributor assembly and it's been running ever since.
Hey man what camera do you use? Its quality is excellent, I may buy it.
+Guitarfollower22 Sony AX100
+Engineering Explained gotta be a sony ... lol
Engineering Explained thanks!
you can also you a "no contact" voltage tester to test for spark in conventional plug wire setups.
they can be bought at home depot in the electric supply isle for like 20$
+newton9837 or you can use a screwdriver which is free.
+Greatest-killer1 yes but it's more "invasive" and less conducive to adverse situations (wet, or very bright). A voltage tester can be stashed in a glove box along with a pressure guage. Plus it's all around handy to have.
Or just use an inductive timing light, so you don't need to pull off the spark plug wires. Just clamp onto the wires and see if it flashes while sitting in the car. Don't have to enlist a helper to crank while you watch.
2 much v tak
+Y Are U Reading My Username? It's called VTEC not v tak
+Frank Gonzalez Vtack*
+Y Are U Reading My Username? if you want to insult me, then at least try to use proper english when doing so.
+Frank Gonzalez lmfao, that's the point, smart guy.
His engine doesn't even have VTEC, it's an LS.
We need more of those vids!
+Orfeas Christodoulou Scotty Kilmet Channel
True that!
+Orfeas Christodoulou The same thing failed on my buddy's 1998 Honda Accord. While we were in there we did a compression test. Even with the distributor corrected it'd no longer run. It turns out the engine no longer builds compression. If you'd like to see a compression video the right way, I've made one.
What i'd like to know is how you correlate the compression you test with the compression ratio.I need to check a friend's engine and I don't know what numbers i should be getting.The CR is 11:1.Can any1 help me?
Orfeas Christodoulou
Knowing the compression ratio might help an engineer guess at the stats it should have, or maybe they even have math for it. You're going to have to look it up.
It's tough, my buddy had a Haynes manual for his car and he still didn't have the compression numbers. (Haynes had the V6, not the L4).
I was able to find out the cold compression test number, but if the numbers are far enough off each other, it's going to be a bad engine regardless of what the numbers should be.
Still, better to look it up.
Jason ive worked on tons of hondas with this motor and im fairy certain the distributor only goes in one way not 2, the teeth is offset slightly
Yep, the teeth make it so the distributor won't mount flush, indicating to turn it around. It will slide in most of the way though.
+Engineering Explained Ace, thanks for the question, and thanks for the answer, Jason.
+AceDrives i agree with you also i had this problem recently with my civic and it was not the distributor itself but a Fuse related to its power so..
Simeon Petrov
Quite right. Finding the problem in this video, can have many causes.
AceDrives. what you said is true I was like um I don't think so. I like his videos though
Oh yes!!! It's like you read my mind, my car does this all the time... Thank you
The timing can be adjusted slightly but rotating the distributor slightly among those three mounting brackets. I think you should take a timing light and make sure everything's okay. I've always been told and showed when taking the distributor off of Hondas, to mark exactly where it was with a cold chisel.
I'd use a Sharpie- a little less permanent than a cold chisel and just as reproducible as far as alignment.
Hey man. I'm liking your videos, and especially liked this style of real life home mechanic, from the point of an engineer, not necessarily a mechanic. BUT. You didnt mention any other possible faults, like, what if it was the battery. Simple answer I know, but a bit more depth so if someone comes with a similar problem they can diagnose it themselves. Back to binge watching your content man, Thanks heaps.
see this a lot with Honda's. yours wasn't leaking. that's a big Honda problem too. not bashing honda/acura, every car has it flaws.
Great video. Not to tell you what to do with your own car, but I think sanding down and cleaning up the headlights would make your car like 10 years younger. Unless you like the fogged up look, its your car. Thanks for the vid though, learned quite a lot for 3 minutes.
Hello sir. Not sure if you will read this but anyways...The few things that I know about cars I learned from you. Whenever I have a question about a part or curiosity of how something works I go on your youtube page and find the answer. I love cars ! And i wish I knew more about them as you do. Not sure if you will reply but I was just curious to know, where you went to school to aquire your knowledge on cars !? Thanks
Nice work. My MINI died on me a few days ago...but it was the fuel pump. A slide hammer or a small jaw puller might get that broken collar off.
Nice job in landing a gig with autozone props
+UpAndUps Cool.
can I help you?
I had a similar problem about half a year ago on my '04 Opel Astra. It cranked and didn't want to fire. But it always started at some point, either the second try or after 30 minutes of cranking. Jumping the battery seemed to help. When running, it was completely fine. Also most of the time if I shut it down and started it soon, it would fire with ease. This intermittent problem was driving me nuts. The engine having coil packs, I started to think it was the crank sensor. It should've set a code tho. I took the bullet and got the part, it being cheap. When I was gonna replace it, the computer finally set the code for the sensor. It was getting steadily weaker, and that's why extra power from a jump helped.
I really liked your whole train of thought with what exactly the engine needs to start and how you figured which one it was. for someone whose new to wrenching can you recommend a book or video to where I'd be able to do similar and learn more? thanks
Have you tried Haynes Manuals?
+Jessie Ferreira Yea Haynes manuals have a troubleshooting section at the beginning and its vehicle specific.
+uncreativename ty guys I'll check that out
It was probably the ignitor or ignition coil. I like putting anti-seize on the shaft so the rotor doesn't seize.
Ayye you made another integra video!! But why didn't you continue the build series ?
Hello everyone and welcome!
I wish I had in my country stores like autozone and such... All things in one place or all things in places in town but unfortunately there are none and you can only get it by asking your mechanic to order stuff if he doesn't have it in his "shop" (serbia).
"$220 at auto zone " or 80 bucks on amazon.
If it's urgent the auto zone if not then online lol
$220 at autozone because lifetime warranty and no need to ship it out or wait for amazon to send a new one
@@chaitea6987 chances are, you will never need another one and if you do, you just buy another for cheap online and still be in it cheaper than a parts store. "Lifetime warranty " is a marketing scheme.
Interesting and informative. Liked the speeded up , slowed down arrangement!
this is great, I would love to see more videos like this.
I have a '96 Integra LS myself, favorite car ever
Thanks for the video, Same thing just happened to my car yesterday it's a little bit hard to suspect/detect , i will be changing it tomorrow ...
You are a teaching master! Thanks for all your good quality video!
Lifetime warranty means the lifetime of the product, not free replacements forever. I think it's important to know that because some people get confused. They will only replace it if it dies due to defects in manufacturing or workmanship.
+Tyler Watthanaphand In this case it means replacement forever, simply because there is no possibility of 'bad-use scenario'. Any problem that does arrive is always defect in manufacturing and/or workmanship...
I see a newer Jeep behind you there, must be a new review coming ;)
+OutdoorEnthusiast88 Actually it was the review this past Sunday! :) th-cam.com/video/rreeKovnMSk/w-d-xo.html
A very similar thing happened to my BMW Z3 last year.
- engine died while driving
- starts normally again like nothing happened
- would backfire sometimes
- would randomly die again
Turns out, my camshaft position sensor was broken. Replaced it and it's back to normal now.
The concept of this video is great! I'd love to see more like it please!
You should make a video explaining about unsprung weight and how it affects a car.
Great video for this beginning wrencher. So how can you tell it's not air delivery keeping the car from cranking. You covered the other three possible causes. Further, how can you tell at the time of loss of power that compression is/isn't an issue?
Did you unplug the fuel line for 30 seconds then plug it back in?
PacoBom Z is this a must?
Nice video, do you use Haynes Manuals?
pretty good video overall. but I will say I have a few discrepancies. 1) almost all Honda distributors ive seen are "dummy proof" the slot in the cam and the distributor raised part are offset so they eliminate the possibility of even being 180 off, my 90 integra did as well, although I have seen people be able to cram it in there but it leaked oil horrendously. 2) a timing belt gives no warning before breaking which would cause the same symptom of abruptly dying. 3)although unlikely, if the ecu or fuel injector resistor box fried could also cause abrupt failure and 4) the two odd things I've had personally happen to me with my old integra(1990)was the fuel pump control relay box the solder was a issue with them and on a hot day would lose connection and cut fuel, and along the lines of a distributor issue, I've had that set screw back out and let the rotor spin on the shaft
On my Civic with a similar setup, the set screw isn't needed to keep it from spinning because the rotor has a D shape that lets it fit on only one way; it can't spin on the shaft. In my case it froze solid from rust, so the retaining screw was vestigial.
I like how you explain things.
I enjoyed this. Break more things on the integra so you can make more fixing videos
*How frustrating! I leave this video wanting to conquer that stuck on rotor! lol*
I'm surprised a car that recent has a distributor. I would have thought if it has an ecu for the efi, then they would use that ecu for the spark timing too.
This happen to a customer of mine. when car dies off on cruising it is best to check the cam belt. cranking the car will cause knocking to pistons and valves. This will be OK if it does not start in the first place.. not when cruising.
Had the issue of my Integra just randomly turning off while driving (plus engine codes like p1300 which meant random cylinder mis-fire). Slapped a new ignition coil on and never had that issue again. Engine codes went away
It may be the ignition coil and ignition module ! Had the same problem in my integra !!!!
Good segment. Keep it coming, thank you
Mr. Engineering Explained, can you do a video about explaining "How the car Starter works"?
+Ghosteriz Car starter is just an electric engine that cranks, or "turns over" then engine until the cylinders begin to fire, and the engine can rotate and run under its own power.
Your starter has a motor, gearing reduction and a solenoid. When you crank the engine, power is sent to the solenoid that pushes the starter motor gear in line with the flywheel/flex plate and then the motor spins, causing the engine to turn over. As the engine is cranking, fuel is injected and spark is sent to the plugs. Eventually, the car starts, you release the key which de-energizes the solenoid and the starter gear is pulled away from the flywheel/flex plate and the starter stops spinning.
Hey man. After seeing this video I would like to see some stuff dealing with oscilloscope diagnosis
what about setting ignition timing?
Clocking the distributer before tightening it back down. You are supposed to use a timing light and set the distibuter at the right positsion to have the correct timing. Then you tighten the bolts
Can you plz do a vid on what is 2 step launch control
You should change your channel name to "Being a Mechanic Explained"
Gottem.
no.
*Technician
literally happened to me a couple months ago with my 97 teg. could be confirmation bias but mine was the the CPS in the distributor
do the integra ball joints next! or alternator. always a good time haha
+dadinggo Idk about the B series but the D series alternator couldn't be any easier to remove.
Whilst the car will run fine after doing this, isn't it good practice to check the timing after replacing a distributor?
I don't even know your personal car is this one because you reviewed so many cars
did any codes come up on scan tool?? thax for sharing
Engineering Explained - I would seriously be interested in seeing a video comparing Toyota or VW performance cars against Ferrari comparing build quality (hear me out here). I know it sounds like obviously the more expensive Ferrari would definitely be built better (it costs 10x the price) but I think there may be quite a twist in this story - Since the larger manufacturers can afford much larger research teams, Toyota or VW have to build for reliability to avoid warranty repairs, and they must build cars ready to do many more miles than the average Ferrari and to be driven on more that just the occasional dry Sunday! Toyota cars get driven daily and in rain, snow and dust. If Toyota build a more reliable car of similar performance, doesn't that mean it's a better car, better built? The larger research teams may even be able to exceed above the designs of a smaller company like Ferrari, ensuring more responsive handling. Furthermore, since Toyota use industry leading manufacturing processes it would be interesting to know if some of the techniques employed by Toyota or VW are out of the reach of the Ferrari team. please could you make a video explaining your viewpoint on it?
Is the integra chain or belt timing? I would probably be checking for condition/tension there before cranking the engine for other tests.
are you sure I hear that when your blinker fluid is low and your muffler bearings are bad sometimes it helps when you take the winter air out of your tires try putting summer air in
Yay the integra has made a return!!!
You may want to polish those front headlights. The glass/plastic looks pretty yellow to me.
I have a 93 miata and suddenly it stop running. One day i was cruisingg down a hill then it died like you said. Then i pulled over and it started right back up. I drove it for a day and everything was good then the day after it didnt start. I changed the fuel pump nothing happened. I found out theres no spark going to the 2nd and 3rd cylinder. What could be going wrong? Coil pack?
+Engineering Explained
Nice Video:) one thing: It's true that a (total) loss of compression is unlikely, but there's one way it can easily happen. I know it because a friend had that problem: broken timing belt(or chain). Many valves will remain open, or closed the whole time, therefore it will have zero compression on some cylinders and some others match each other out with compression/pressure pushing on the pistons (without any 'pump' work being done).
So you have spark, kind of fuel, kind of air, but it feels and sounds like zero compression. You know what I mean?
+DerKrawallkeks yes, but a broken timing belt is super easy to see
Yep, timing belt could cause it, one of the things I glanced at when I popped the hood. Everything looked to be in check.
Yea, for your case, of course. You could even hear compression:)
just meant in general. In todays engines, the timing belt can't be seen easily, often^^
2 bolts and you can see it DerKrawallkeks
Yep, might be true. Idk^^
did u try putting your key into the ignition and turn to the right ?
I don't mean to criticize, but I noticed your distributor has slotted mounts.
You missed a golden opportunity to demonstrate distributor timing check and adjustment there.
You said that even if there is a spark, it doesn't rule out the spark plugs. Can you elaborate on that? I've been having this problem with an engine i'm fiddling with, and I've got spark, fuel and compression, but it just won't turn over.
Very informative video! I've gone through 2 dizzys on my 96' ls already ):
On my winter beater I had all the ignition coils on the bank closest to the fire wall die. For a whole day I ran it even though only 3 cylinders where firing, it sounded like an autistic tractor and drove like trash. After replacing all 6 plugs and coils I realized that the previous owner apparently only changed the plugs and coils on one bank. I should add that this car had 350,000 km on it and was just chugging along.
I have a 2003 Chevy Blazer. My car ran fine yesterday. The next day it will not start. It cranks but will not start. I was told 4 months ago that ny battery was good at Advanced Auto Parts. Is it #1) Bady Spark Clogs, #2) Bad Fuel Pump, or #3) Something else.