dude...trust me. add a few outlets to your ceiling for ceiling-mounted retractable extension cords. You will use those pull down extension cords A LOT more than you will ever use the wall outlets. I also agree with the GFCI outlet near the toilet--do it now while its easy!
Add some compressed air outlets outside, one by the pool and one by the driveway, once you have air you'll use it a lot and not everything will be inside.
Run an additional Cat6 line out to the area you have your outdoor kitchen (for an outdoor AP), and maybe out to the wall looking at the pool so you can add an outdoor AP for wifi all around the pool. Wifi is the future and you can get that done now for pennies!
@@ShopNationalso a dedicated run for the outdoor entertainment. I’m assuming your ganna have some sort of tv setup for that baller pool/grill area. Don’t wanna be streaming the big game on wifi to have it dropping out. Also maybe it’s a future video but other low voltage stuff? Speaker wire for pool area and shop? Ethernet runs in the shop?
While you are running one for the Access Point, may as well run 4. 1 for the AP, 1 for the POE camera, 1 for the TV or streaming box, and 1 for whatever comes down the road next month. And also a pull string for the month after that.
Add a GFCI outlet in the toilet area and get a decent bidet attachment to the toilet. Not necessarily for the regular functions of such a device, but for the heated seats. It is really nice for a garage toilet in winter time when you sit down 👍 Grab one on sale during black friday and they are not very expensive.
Why do Americans still not understand the possibility of adding ground fault protection to entire buildings? How can you not want GF protection in a shop that's filled with METAL electric tools? Is it okay for a live wire to touch the metal frame of a machine and make it live, just because it's not in a bathroom? Just because you only use 120V doesn't mean you don't need to take electricity seriously.
@@timderks5960 Its becoming the norm. When we bought out 100 yo house instead of going and rewiring all of the knob and tube buried in the walls we installed a new and larger breaker box with 200 amp service and GFCI breakers for the entire house. We're getting trips like twice a month, but its better than the house burning down. And as we go through and renovate each room I rip out and replace the K&T wiring. But GFCI breakers are definitely coming in vogue in the US. Not sure if they are now code required for new builds though.
Put an air drop outside your garage door for airing tires. But more importantly, put one outside near the kitchen area/pool for inflating pool toys. It’s something I wish I could do but our pool is too far away from my garage.
Wire chase or smurf tubes from the electronics room up to the attic for future wiring needs. Even with having access, having it in place just makes doing future work that much easier. Maybe even look at doing one through the wall so you can run stuff in and out of the shop easier should that need arise. Matt Risinger did that with his home build and I thought it was a pretty good idea.
One thing you might consider is providing an easy way to empty the dust collector. My shop is primarily for woodworking and the machines create a lot of dust and wood chips. 30 plus gallons of wood shavings, sawdust and just dust is heavy.
Throw and extra air outlet on the outside of the shop facing the pool area. It will make blowing up those inflatable pool toys so much easier that dragging a hose out the door or dragging the toy in and out of the shop.
I love the MaxLine stuff. I have a 3/4" loop in my shop with (currently) 5 drops and a MaxLine regulator/drier on each drop. There's also a regulator/drier at the air compressor from Stupid Simple Tools, and shortly I'll get around to finishing a modification to the air compressor that uses an automotive transmission cooler with a fan between the compressor head and the tank. By cooling the air before it goes into the tank, you eliminate almost all moisture from the tank, giving you drier air and preventing tank corrosion. This air feeds a lathe, mill, surface grinder, plasma table, and is also used for general air tools for automotive work. The MaxLine stuff is a bear to straighten, especially when you're OCD and it's visible. I 3D printed a handful of different spaces for the air line clips to make everything even. The clips stand the 3/4" air line out about 3/4" from the wall to the center of the pipe, and the regulators standoff about 1" to the center of the pipe. Very annoying.
Did you add a water line and power for a wall mounted pressure washer? Something worth considering! Also wire for outdoor entertainment... speakers, cat6 (x2), etc.
So i know you'll have that attic lift, but I can't help but think a great over the top addition would be a rail system for the bottom floor. Would likely need to reinforce joists ahead of time, but some sort of heavy duty rail system that you could pick up something incredibly heavy even such a table saw or just huge project and move it somewhere else. I know you're not going to be moving your table saw but my point is something super heavy and if you end up having to move something heavy, even trying to get it on a dolly would be extremely difficult.
I have air run thru my shop in a similar way. I would recommend regulators at the drop so you don't have to run upstairs to change air pressure. And it's nice to have two different pressures on different lines. Never thought I'd use that, but I do more than expected.
Take the straps you have holding the hvac tubing and screw them inbetween the rafter so it hold it above the flush level. Then just make some 3d printed brackets to brace it a little more every 10 feet or something.
Your shop is really coming together bud, everything is very thought out! I can sure tell you that there will be many more sleepless nights coming up as you're always thinking about what you need to do so you don't miss anything. I just finished up my 60x120x18 man cave that has everything you do to include numerous car lifts with in floor heat and poly aspartic floor covering. Take care and don't work too hard!
I remember when I started watching this channel... just about 1k subs and doing all he could in a one-car garage. Dude's come a long way since then. Love this content, and look forward to seeing you complete the shop.... again. *smirk* Thank you Travis for all that you've done, continue to do, and will do in the future.
Got to have jam sessions in the shop. Hey btw, the water heater up the attic space may not be the best idea. I say this because what if it ages and begins to leak? Gravity will do its thing and it won't be pretty. Maybe you mentioned it already but put it some kind of liner in case this happens.
True, but when I lived in Texas just about every water heater was up in the attic. Just need to make sure to put a catch pan underneath, tied to that drain I put in
It's good to see all these well thought out details. I'm not planning a new shop like you are doing but it's good to see all of this so if and when I get to that point I'll have a good reference.
Outdoor Kitchen - You will want hot water there too. We have an outdoor kitchen with some counter space. I put an electric gridle on it to cook bacon. Hot water would be great to wash hands between raw and cooked food handling and greasy splatter clean up.
May want to run a conduit or two, from the panel to potential areas of need. No need to pull wires but will save you much angst in the future. If you ran all the electric in conduit, it makes is so easy to add circuits later on. We always did conduit, and it always paid off in the future. By using the 3/4" piping for air, you're basically increasing the size of your compressed air capacity, like adding a bigger tank. We ran 1" pipe, with 3/4 drops and we never ran out of air. On your dust collection, you want to limit your turns and use sweeps rather than tight turns, it will increase air flow and make your system more efficient. Also be sure to ground any metal ducting when using it for dust collection, static electric can cause an inline fire. Also try and limit any flexible lines since they increase air drag since they are not smooth.
Air dryer for the compressed air. You are about as OCD as I am. Enjoying all your vids. A 'wiring closet' is great. Have some hvac run to it too, no need for a minisplit head, just a inlet and exhaust fan to keep the air freshened so it doesn't get to dry/wet depending. I am sure you are doing that to the 'utility area' upstairs.
One of the coolest shop infrastructure I’ve seen is Sheldon at BarZ using a large steel box tube as a giant compressed air access manifold and auxiliary tank. Can’t recall if it was also structural, but it was pretty epic.
Two things come to mind: When we built a house a few years ago I added hoist hooks (1/2 steel plate with a 2in hole) for lifting heavy furniture to the large ridge beams. These are super useful. Only other cable I didn’t see is HDMI or 4K digital cables for a video entertainment system. Cables are expensive but you strategically place one run to hide the source to a large TV if you decide to add one.
I absolutely respect how this channel has evolved. From a single car garage in Texas to a new custom work space in the Midwest. The evolution is inspiring. I agree with others on here...add more outlets on the ceiling.
Definitely get water ran to somewhere on the interior wall next to a GFCI outlet for a wall mounted pressure washer. Add some blocking for a reel, makes washing cars a breeze! Check out Obsessed Garage for the setup.
Fun to see this come together. Looks like you are very well planned out. I need to add an air conditioner in my shop and Mr. Cool looks like something to consider. Thanks. As far as the compressed air goes - one of my best decisions I made was to put a roboreel ceiling mount in the middle of the shop.
I would consider before the walls go up replacing that cat6 with cat6a U/FTP installed correctly with a clean earth this will give you much better shielding from the noisy environment of a shop ( electrical noise ). The cables also have better heat dissipation for PoE but that is not much of a problem for you as its only as few runs.
Don't forget to insulate any piping that goes through the attic space that transfers warm air through a cold space (or vise versa ) otherwise condensation will form ..... leading to mold
The fewer speakers you have the higher volume you need out of each speaker. In your space I would put at least three pair if not, four. You may even consider putting them on zones so you can adjust the volume in an area. You can play with this by putting multiple Bluetooth speakers in the area. Try putting one in the area, then two then three. If three works for you then will need three sets of speakers, if four is better than four sets of speakers.
I also have my compressor in the attic. Wired it to a 60 minute dial timer as I would forget to turn it off when I leave if it wasn’t running. Keeps it from turning on when your not in the shop.
You’ve talked about low voltage wiring and surveillance cameras - what about wiring for other sensors? Everything from smoke/carbon monoxide detectors to temperature, humidity, water leak detection and of course security lines for doors/windows (which I would not expect you to mention publicly)? This makes me think of fire suppression - have you planned on mounting a fire extinguisher or two somewhere in the shop? I don’t remember you saying anything about storage. I’m specifically thinking about storage for pool chemicals, toys, and such. I store our pool toys outside in one of those plastic storage sheds but I keep all the chemicals in the garage because I feel they should be in a (somewhat) temperature/humidity controlled environment. I’m loving this series of videos - thank you!
I too had the same air system into the walls. And I don’t even own one air tool. But boy, do we use it for cleaning and blowing up tires, etc. We leave the compressor on full-time now because we found so many uses for it.
New shop? Does that mean at some point there will be a new workbench? Or shop cabinets? I'm building the Shmedium Workbench now which has been a ton of fun so far and pretty easy.
You may want to consider water drop at each air connect fitting. This is a length of line straight down below air quick connect with small ball valve to empty line periodically. Don’t know how your humidity is there. Would help alot
Yeah, over engineering is a bit of an understatement. Love the project, with I could do this or something similar. The only thing I would suggest is to add pull cord with the networking cable. You can get spools of nylon or polyester braided cord/rope for this purpose for $40-50 but they are huge time and headache savers. The idea is that you tie off the cord with either end of a network or low voltage cable so you can pull the cord out or run a new cord in if expansion is needed. You would attach a new nylon cord with whatever line you run in the replace the one you pulled out. This just makes it exponentially easier to replace or add low voltage cables along the runs you created. You're using the in-place cord to help pull out/in whatever line you need and at the same time pulling in a new cord for future use as needed.
If you dont mind the aesthetic, cable raceways are the way forward as it makes changing stuff easy. If you prefer in-wall cable ducting leave a draw string in each. Make it 2x the length of the duct so you can pull it all the way out tie off and pull it all the way back and it's always there.
This is one nice shop and you have thought of so many items to future proof. The accessible attic will help with anything you need to add in the future. I’ll bet you look forward to the day you can “commute” to work and create content while still being accessible to your family. Well done.
Probably too late because it's in the walls now but since your cat6 is going to be around a bunch of power tools you may have wanted to look at shielded AKA Cat6 STP for your in-wall runs that terminate near your equipment. It probably won't be a problem but it's generally a good practice. Add a couple drops in the ceiling for wifi? Shop speakers in the ceiling?
if that's the raxial fan, don't! step up one tier, it makes a huge difference. tried to use a raxial 4" for a bathroom fan and it failed miserably. went to the cloudline and it was actually just right, and not too noisy. they are bigger but not by much. good on ya for ventilating!
You may have a problem with sewer gas with the drains for your compressor and water heater. If you don’t have a p-trap that drys up due to lack of use, sewer gas will be an issue
When my new jointer came in, I needed a hoist system to lift the table out of a box and onto the base. Might want to plan for this kind of thing, as the ability to lift a machine is really nice to have and not terribly expensive.
I know you've previously said that you manage all your printers offline, not networked; would you consider networking your printers now and using a fleet management toolset to manage them?
Okay... so maybe you don't need that laundry chute... but with the dust collector upstairs, well... emptying it could be a problem. Maybe you need a dust-collector-emptying chute? ... or even a garbage chute in general so that you don't have to carry a mess through all that nice clean shop/workshop space. If it were me, I'd have a fire pole escape route or something... lol - secret or hidden just for fun... but this isn't my dream, it's yours... lol.
@@NASTYcraftX My bad - I know he was talking about compressed air... but I heard dust collection - and emptying out the dust bin and keeping the filters clean has proven to be a surprising burden for most people who install such a system - might want to give some thought to how those chores could be made easier or whatever.
Great detail and thinking ahead. The area that you're terminating all the CAT6 to and I believe you said there'd be a small server there, make sure it's able to have climate control (not sure if it will be open or closed off). Working in IT, it's common for the "IT closet" to have its own cooling or at least ducting so that the equipment doesn't overheat, shortening its life.
Not sure if you have a clean or office type space up in the attic where your ceiling cassette is located, but if you plan to spend a lot of time in a sealed space like that, consider an energy recovery ventilator for constant fresh breathing air and fart evacuation. Panasonic makes some nice ones.
Compressed air is something you don't realize how much you need until after you have it. Even if you're just mostly blowing sawdust out of your machines, it's a huge convenience.
Most, if not all of these are probably mentioned in individual comments but: 1. Two outdoor air outlets. One at the pool for toys and one near the shop entrance for flat tires. 2. More ceiling mounted outlets, You WILL be wanting a couple of retractable extension cords. 3. Another vote for a GFCI outlet next to the throne, could be for a bidet, could be for a heated seat. 4. An ethernet jack near where you MIGHT put an outdoor TV set. WiFi works most of the time. Properly run ethernet ALWAYS works 5. Ethernet jacks on the outside for wireless access points, depending on the actual size and layout of your outdoor area you should probably wire for at least two. 6. Outdoor speakers that can be turned on and off separately from those inside the shop. If you want to get fancy, and expensive, look at some of the "zoned" amplifier systems where you can route any source to any destination.
If you have wire left over run a couple of extra circuits to boxes in the attic to insure against future needs. Include outlets in your ceiling light circuit for task lighting. An air dryer can be as simple as a u-shaped piece of metal pipe between the air compressor and the air filter as long as you remember to drain it.
What about cleaning out your dust collector? I know you have the lift, just curious what your plan is. Also, I'm wondering if you're aiming to use Oneida along with their indicating light for dust collection fill since you won't be looking at your dust collection barrel all the time.
Also, pressurized lines inevitably go up and down in pressure. In doing so, they tend to move slightly, over and over. You may not want to trap Romex (or anything else) between the pressure line and a joist.
All wires act as antennas, in order to avoid potential electro-magnetic "noise" issues on your data cables from other sources of "noise" and avoid having to purchase expensive fully shielded data cables, you keep electrical and data cables as far apart as possible.
Is it ideal to have AC in the printing space? It being turned on when a print is starting or even in the middle of the print can cause print failures depending on the material used. I only mention this as majority of your printers are open air printers but if you only use your bambu up there then the enclosure should prevent the majority of this.
Unless code requires it, skip the drywall and use either OSB or plywood. This makes mounting things to the wall WAY easier, and if you need to open the wall up, just pull the screws and remove the panel, then replace when done.
Don't forget to accomodate the heat build up in your closet that you are installing your network equipment in. You may want to cool that space and your equipment will last longer and run better. Ask me how I know! LOL.
I would make doors for all your access panels in the attic. Sooner or later you’re gonna have to go in there and do some kind of work. Take the time now make the doors and install them. You’ll thank me later.
If you think you will use your now existing ducting for exhausting paint fumes, you should use a different fan than the induction fan you showed. Typically it would be a "tube axial fan". These are belt driven by a motor that is removed from the air stream to prevent KA BOOM. They are pricey though. Check into it there are others, but for handling paint fumes, they are all on the pricey side.
Glad you chose Mr Cool, i installed a ductless mini-split for the whole house and love the technology but learned an expensive lesson that LG is absolute garbage.
Instead of elbows for your air line terminations, you want a tee so you can install drip legs. I understand you're planning on draining the tank, but those long runs will trickle a bit and you want it to end in a short length of pipe with a valve at the bottom, not in your air tools.
00:37 should I put in? in Germany, every connection now has 3 phases (three-phase current "Drehstrom"). alternating current connections are slowly dying out
apart from that, we have alternating current 230 V and three-phase current 400 V smaller cross-section (mm²) and more power (W). and since in principle almost all "final circuits" now have an RCD, everything is safe
I like the Mr.Cool mini split. I installed one in my 1000ft shop and I've never been happier. Side note - you can do it "yourself" but for the love of god ask a friend to help lol.
I would've run the CAT6 cables in a pipe, with a pull-cord for each run left in. If you *ever* need to replace (or upgrade) those cables, the way you did it's going to be super tedious and near impossible in some cases.
dude...trust me. add a few outlets to your ceiling for ceiling-mounted retractable extension cords. You will use those pull down extension cords A LOT more than you will ever use the wall outlets. I also agree with the GFCI outlet near the toilet--do it now while its easy!
This can't get enough likes, i have 2 cord reels and they are such a time saver.
Yes sir, I have (4) outlets in the ceiling spread around the shop for just that reason
Add some compressed air outlets outside, one by the pool and one by the driveway, once you have air you'll use it a lot and not everything will be inside.
This, air outside is nice for airing up tires on the car and truck with out having to open the doors and letting all your conditioned air out.
Agreed. At least an air outlet at the front and one on the side or back.
Run an additional Cat6 line out to the area you have your outdoor kitchen (for an outdoor AP), and maybe out to the wall looking at the pool so you can add an outdoor AP for wifi all around the pool. Wifi is the future and you can get that done now for pennies!
Ooooo good call!
@@ShopNationalso a dedicated run for the outdoor entertainment. I’m assuming your ganna have some sort of tv setup for that baller pool/grill area. Don’t wanna be streaming the big game on wifi to have it dropping out. Also maybe it’s a future video but other low voltage stuff? Speaker wire for pool area and shop? Ethernet runs in the shop?
While you are running one for the Access Point, may as well run 4. 1 for the AP, 1 for the POE camera, 1 for the TV or streaming box, and 1 for whatever comes down the road next month. And also a pull string for the month after that.
Add a GFCI outlet in the toilet area and get a decent bidet attachment to the toilet. Not necessarily for the regular functions of such a device, but for the heated seats. It is really nice for a garage toilet in winter time when you sit down 👍 Grab one on sale during black friday and they are not very expensive.
Why do Americans still not understand the possibility of adding ground fault protection to entire buildings? How can you not want GF protection in a shop that's filled with METAL electric tools? Is it okay for a live wire to touch the metal frame of a machine and make it live, just because it's not in a bathroom? Just because you only use 120V doesn't mean you don't need to take electricity seriously.
@@timderks5960 Its becoming the norm. When we bought out 100 yo house instead of going and rewiring all of the knob and tube buried in the walls we installed a new and larger breaker box with 200 amp service and GFCI breakers for the entire house. We're getting trips like twice a month, but its better than the house burning down. And as we go through and renovate each room I rip out and replace the K&T wiring.
But GFCI breakers are definitely coming in vogue in the US. Not sure if they are now code required for new builds though.
If you add the strapping to the faces of the joists instead of the bottoms you can pull your ducting up, so it won't rest on the drywall ceiling.
Put an air drop outside your garage door for airing tires. But more importantly, put one outside near the kitchen area/pool for inflating pool toys. It’s something I wish I could do but our pool is too far away from my garage.
What a killer idea...
Wire chase or smurf tubes from the electronics room up to the attic for future wiring needs. Even with having access, having it in place just makes doing future work that much easier.
Maybe even look at doing one through the wall so you can run stuff in and out of the shop easier should that need arise. Matt Risinger did that with his home build and I thought it was a pretty good idea.
One thing you might consider is providing an easy way to empty the dust collector. My shop is primarily for woodworking and the machines create a lot of dust and wood chips. 30 plus gallons of wood shavings, sawdust and just dust is heavy.
Throw and extra air outlet on the outside of the shop facing the pool area. It will make blowing up those inflatable pool toys so much easier that dragging a hose out the door or dragging the toy in and out of the shop.
I love the MaxLine stuff. I have a 3/4" loop in my shop with (currently) 5 drops and a MaxLine regulator/drier on each drop. There's also a regulator/drier at the air compressor from Stupid Simple Tools, and shortly I'll get around to finishing a modification to the air compressor that uses an automotive transmission cooler with a fan between the compressor head and the tank. By cooling the air before it goes into the tank, you eliminate almost all moisture from the tank, giving you drier air and preventing tank corrosion. This air feeds a lathe, mill, surface grinder, plasma table, and is also used for general air tools for automotive work. The MaxLine stuff is a bear to straighten, especially when you're OCD and it's visible. I 3D printed a handful of different spaces for the air line clips to make everything even. The clips stand the 3/4" air line out about 3/4" from the wall to the center of the pipe, and the regulators standoff about 1" to the center of the pipe. Very annoying.
Did you add a water line and power for a wall mounted pressure washer? Something worth considering! Also wire for outdoor entertainment... speakers, cat6 (x2), etc.
So i know you'll have that attic lift, but I can't help but think a great over the top addition would be a rail system for the bottom floor. Would likely need to reinforce joists ahead of time, but some sort of heavy duty rail system that you could pick up something incredibly heavy even such a table saw or just huge project and move it somewhere else. I know you're not going to be moving your table saw but my point is something super heavy and if you end up having to move something heavy, even trying to get it on a dolly would be extremely difficult.
I have air run thru my shop in a similar way. I would recommend regulators at the drop so you don't have to run upstairs to change air pressure. And it's nice to have two different pressures on different lines. Never thought I'd use that, but I do more than expected.
Take the straps you have holding the hvac tubing and screw them inbetween the rafter so it hold it above the flush level. Then just make some 3d printed brackets to brace it a little more every 10 feet or something.
Your shop is really coming together bud, everything is very thought out! I can sure tell you that there will be many more sleepless nights coming up as you're always thinking about what you need to do so you don't miss anything. I just finished up my 60x120x18 man cave that has everything you do to include numerous car lifts with in floor heat and poly aspartic floor covering. Take care and don't work too hard!
I remember when I started watching this channel... just about 1k subs and doing all he could in a one-car garage. Dude's come a long way since then. Love this content, and look forward to seeing you complete the shop.... again. *smirk* Thank you Travis for all that you've done, continue to do, and will do in the future.
Got to have jam sessions in the shop. Hey btw, the water heater up the attic space may not be the best idea. I say this because what if it ages and begins to leak? Gravity will do its thing and it won't be pretty. Maybe you mentioned it already but put it some kind of liner in case this happens.
True, but when I lived in Texas just about every water heater was up in the attic. Just need to make sure to put a catch pan underneath, tied to that drain I put in
Maybe add in some more low voltage wiring for additional LED task lights near work bench locations?
It's good to see all these well thought out details. I'm not planning a new shop like you are doing but it's good to see all of this so if and when I get to that point I'll have a good reference.
Add speaker wire outside for your outdoor kitchen.
add an expansion tank to your air system. always nice to have more than you need.
Can’t have a pool party without tunes. I would drop at least two lines for outdoor speakers near the kitchen.
Outdoor Kitchen - You will want hot water there too. We have an outdoor kitchen with some counter space. I put an electric gridle on it to cook bacon. Hot water would be great to wash hands between raw and cooked food handling and greasy splatter clean up.
No speakers out in the kitchen/poolarea?
May want to run a conduit or two, from the panel to potential areas of need. No need to pull wires but will save you much angst in the future. If you ran all the electric in conduit, it makes is so easy to add circuits later on. We always did conduit, and it always paid off in the future. By using the 3/4" piping for air, you're basically increasing the size of your compressed air capacity, like adding a bigger tank. We ran 1" pipe, with 3/4 drops and we never ran out of air. On your dust collection, you want to limit your turns and use sweeps rather than tight turns, it will increase air flow and make your system more efficient. Also be sure to ground any metal ducting when using it for dust collection, static electric can cause an inline fire. Also try and limit any flexible lines since they increase air drag since they are not smooth.
Air dryer for the compressed air. You are about as OCD as I am. Enjoying all your vids.
A 'wiring closet' is great. Have some hvac run to it too, no need for a minisplit head, just a inlet and exhaust fan to keep the air freshened so it doesn't get to dry/wet depending. I am sure you are doing that to the 'utility area' upstairs.
One of the coolest shop infrastructure I’ve seen is Sheldon at BarZ using a large steel box tube as a giant compressed air access manifold and auxiliary tank. Can’t recall if it was also structural, but it was pretty epic.
I find a shop sink to be a very useful item - not sure if you plumbed for one near the restroom or not, but I would.
+1 for a utility sink
Sure did!
@@ShopNation get the biggest utility sink that you can find. Trust me, you will never regret it.
Two things come to mind:
When we built a house a few years ago I added hoist hooks (1/2 steel plate with a 2in hole) for lifting heavy furniture to the large ridge beams. These are super useful.
Only other cable I didn’t see is HDMI or 4K digital cables for a video entertainment system. Cables are expensive but you strategically place one run to hide the source to a large TV if you decide to add one.
I absolutely respect how this channel has evolved. From a single car garage in Texas to a new custom work space in the Midwest. The evolution is inspiring. I agree with others on here...add more outlets on the ceiling.
Thank you!
Definitely get water ran to somewhere on the interior wall next to a GFCI outlet for a wall mounted pressure washer. Add some blocking for a reel, makes washing cars a breeze! Check out Obsessed Garage for the setup.
Great tip, take LOTS pictures of all the ceilings and walls after everything is roughed in, before sheeting goes up. They come in SUPER handy later.
Fun to see this come together. Looks like you are very well planned out. I need to add an air conditioner in my shop and Mr. Cool looks like something to consider. Thanks. As far as the compressed air goes - one of my best decisions I made was to put a roboreel ceiling mount in the middle of the shop.
I would consider before the walls go up replacing that cat6 with cat6a U/FTP installed correctly with a clean earth this will give you much better shielding from the noisy environment of a shop ( electrical noise ). The cables also have better heat dissipation for PoE but that is not much of a problem for you as its only as few runs.
Don't forget to insulate any piping that goes through the attic space that transfers warm air through a cold space (or vise versa ) otherwise condensation will form ..... leading to mold
The fewer speakers you have the higher volume you need out of each speaker. In your space I would put at least three pair if not, four. You may even consider putting them on zones so you can adjust the volume in an area. You can play with this by putting multiple Bluetooth speakers in the area. Try putting one in the area, then two then three. If three works for you then will need three sets of speakers, if four is better than four sets of speakers.
I also have my compressor in the attic. Wired it to a 60 minute dial timer as I would forget to turn it off when I leave if it wasn’t running. Keeps it from turning on when your not in the shop.
You’ve talked about low voltage wiring and surveillance cameras - what about wiring for other sensors? Everything from smoke/carbon monoxide detectors to temperature, humidity, water leak detection and of course security lines for doors/windows (which I would not expect you to mention publicly)?
This makes me think of fire suppression - have you planned on mounting a fire extinguisher or two somewhere in the shop?
I don’t remember you saying anything about storage. I’m specifically thinking about storage for pool chemicals, toys, and such. I store our pool toys outside in one of those plastic storage sheds but I keep all the chemicals in the garage because I feel they should be in a (somewhat) temperature/humidity controlled environment.
I’m loving this series of videos - thank you!
I too had the same air system into the walls. And I don’t even own one air tool. But boy, do we use it for cleaning and blowing up tires, etc. We leave the compressor on full-time now because we found so many uses for it.
Compressed air near the pool for filling up floats and one for the drive way for pumping up tires and running tools outside.
New shop? Does that mean at some point there will be a new workbench? Or shop cabinets? I'm building the Shmedium Workbench now which has been a ton of fun so far and pretty easy.
How about an air outlet for the outside? Pump up tires, pool floating devices, metal plasma cutter, etc.
You may want to consider water drop at each air connect fitting. This is a length of line straight down below air quick connect with small ball valve to empty line periodically. Don’t know how your humidity is there. Would help alot
Yeah, over engineering is a bit of an understatement. Love the project, with I could do this or something similar.
The only thing I would suggest is to add pull cord with the networking cable. You can get spools of nylon or polyester braided cord/rope for this purpose for $40-50 but they are huge time and headache savers. The idea is that you tie off the cord with either end of a network or low voltage cable so you can pull the cord out or run a new cord in if expansion is needed. You would attach a new nylon cord with whatever line you run in the replace the one you pulled out. This just makes it exponentially easier to replace or add low voltage cables along the runs you created. You're using the in-place cord to help pull out/in whatever line you need and at the same time pulling in a new cord for future use as needed.
If you dont mind the aesthetic, cable raceways are the way forward as it makes changing stuff easy.
If you prefer in-wall cable ducting leave a draw string in each. Make it 2x the length of the duct so you can pull it all the way out tie off and pull it all the way back and it's always there.
This is one nice shop and you have thought of so many items to future proof.
The accessible attic will help with anything you need to add in the future.
I’ll bet you look forward to the day you can “commute” to work and create content while still being accessible to your family.
Well done.
If you are going to put a refrigerator out there be sure to run a water line so you can have water to it and ice capable.
I have had Pex air lines for years, no issues so far.
Probably too late because it's in the walls now but since your cat6 is going to be around a bunch of power tools you may have wanted to look at shielded AKA Cat6 STP for your in-wall runs that terminate near your equipment. It probably won't be a problem but it's generally a good practice. Add a couple drops in the ceiling for wifi? Shop speakers in the ceiling?
if that's the raxial fan, don't! step up one tier, it makes a huge difference. tried to use a raxial 4" for a bathroom fan and it failed miserably. went to the cloudline and it was actually just right, and not too noisy. they are bigger but not by much. good on ya for ventilating!
You may have a problem with sewer gas with the drains for your compressor and water heater. If you don’t have a p-trap that drys up due to lack of use, sewer gas will be an issue
Those drains are not tied into my sewer, they drain outside
Not sure if your an audiophile like myself, but I would definitely run wires for in ceiling subwoofers.
When my new jointer came in, I needed a hoist system to lift the table out of a box and onto the base. Might want to plan for this kind of thing, as the ability to lift a machine is really nice to have and not terribly expensive.
This will be one of the most purpose-built, sexy workshop I've even seen! Tremendous project!
If you’re future proofing, wouldn’t hurt to collocate fiber with the CAT6 drops.
yes you want to keep cat6 separated from electrical. You get interference on the cat6 since it is also sending electricity through the cat6.
I know you've previously said that you manage all your printers offline, not networked; would you consider networking your printers now and using a fleet management toolset to manage them?
Okay... so maybe you don't need that laundry chute... but with the dust collector upstairs, well... emptying it could be a problem. Maybe you need a dust-collector-emptying chute? ... or even a garbage chute in general so that you don't have to carry a mess through all that nice clean shop/workshop space. If it were me, I'd have a fire pole escape route or something... lol - secret or hidden just for fun... but this isn't my dream, it's yours... lol.
I'm assuming he'll put the dust bin on the ground floor and not in the attic.
Fire pole? ...YES!!!
@@NASTYcraftX My bad - I know he was talking about compressed air... but I heard dust collection - and emptying out the dust bin and keeping the filters clean has proven to be a surprising burden for most people who install such a system - might want to give some thought to how those chores could be made easier or whatever.
Great videos as always! Thanks for sharing
Great detail and thinking ahead. The area that you're terminating all the CAT6 to and I believe you said there'd be a small server there, make sure it's able to have climate control (not sure if it will be open or closed off). Working in IT, it's common for the "IT closet" to have its own cooling or at least ducting so that the equipment doesn't overheat, shortening its life.
Not sure if you have a clean or office type space up in the attic where your ceiling cassette is located, but if you plan to spend a lot of time in a sealed space like that, consider an energy recovery ventilator for constant fresh breathing air and fart evacuation. Panasonic makes some nice ones.
Compressed air is something you don't realize how much you need until after you have it. Even if you're just mostly blowing sawdust out of your machines, it's a huge convenience.
Most, if not all of these are probably mentioned in individual comments but:
1. Two outdoor air outlets. One at the pool for toys and one near the shop entrance for flat tires.
2. More ceiling mounted outlets, You WILL be wanting a couple of retractable extension cords.
3. Another vote for a GFCI outlet next to the throne, could be for a bidet, could be for a heated seat.
4. An ethernet jack near where you MIGHT put an outdoor TV set. WiFi works most of the time. Properly run ethernet ALWAYS works
5. Ethernet jacks on the outside for wireless access points, depending on the actual size and layout of your outdoor area you should probably wire for at least two.
6. Outdoor speakers that can be turned on and off separately from those inside the shop. If you want to get fancy, and expensive, look at some of the "zoned" amplifier systems where you can route any source to any destination.
If you have wire left over run a couple of extra circuits to boxes in the attic to insure against future needs. Include outlets in your ceiling light circuit for task lighting. An air dryer can be as simple as a u-shaped piece of metal pipe between the air compressor and the air filter as long as you remember to drain it.
I would’ve added some channels in the floor for dust collection. That way you don’t have pipes running to the ceiling.
This is really starting to look like the amazing shop we knew you would build. Keep up the amazing work. 👽
Pex works fine
Yep. Mine has been great for years.
Agreed. It's rated for 200psi and is cheap and easy to install. Only issue is UV damages it, but if it's all in the walls, it's not an issue.
Upstairs dust collector doesn't sound fun to empty.
What about cleaning out your dust collector? I know you have the lift, just curious what your plan is. Also, I'm wondering if you're aiming to use Oneida along with their indicating light for dust collection fill since you won't be looking at your dust collection barrel all the time.
Also, pressurized lines inevitably go up and down in pressure. In doing so, they tend to move slightly, over and over. You may not want to trap Romex (or anything else) between the pressure line and a joist.
All wires act as antennas, in order to avoid potential electro-magnetic "noise" issues on your data cables from other sources of "noise" and avoid having to purchase expensive fully shielded data cables, you keep electrical and data cables as far apart as possible.
I'm not sure I would have put the air system in the ceiling. If I ever had a leak, it would be a bear to deal with.
Is it ideal to have AC in the printing space? It being turned on when a print is starting or even in the middle of the print can cause print failures depending on the material used. I only mention this as majority of your printers are open air printers but if you only use your bambu up there then the enclosure should prevent the majority of this.
Shop sink, and a pressure washer build into the wall. probably near the garage door
In my state you have to run CAT6E in the walls and needs to be run by a electrician. Which is funny when POE is only 48 volts.
Unless code requires it, skip the drywall and use either OSB or plywood. This makes mounting things to the wall WAY easier, and if you need to open the wall up, just pull the screws and remove the panel, then replace when done.
I can't wait to see the final tally on this ultimate shop build.
With a downstairs shopbas large as you have, what are you doing for hvac circulation?
C channel hoist in the attic, allows you to store heavy items upstairs
Already in the plan!
I suspect that it is not required by code, but have you thought about fire suppression and/or sprinklers?
Some nice tips and pre-planning. On air, I’ll stick to PEX and unless a company wants to donate. 😊
Did you consider routing wires for remote activated blast gates for your dust collection?
Maybe I missed it. Did you put in CAT 6 network drops?
Don't forget to accomodate the heat build up in your closet that you are installing your network equipment in. You may want to cool that space and your equipment will last longer and run better. Ask me how I know! LOL.
I would make doors for all your access panels in the attic. Sooner or later you’re gonna have to go in there and do some kind of work. Take the time now make the doors and install them. You’ll thank me later.
Do you need fire stop foam for your 1/2" air lines through the top plates?
I’m not sure but I did anyways when I was done
If you think you will use your now existing ducting for exhausting paint fumes, you should use a different fan than the induction fan you showed. Typically it would be a "tube axial fan". These are belt driven by a motor that is removed from the air stream to prevent KA BOOM. They are pricey though. Check into it there are others, but for handling paint fumes, they are all on the pricey side.
Glad you chose Mr Cool, i installed a ductless mini-split for the whole house and love the technology but learned an expensive lesson that LG is absolute garbage.
Add cat6 wires for Wifi Access Points.
Instead of elbows for your air line terminations, you want a tee so you can install drip legs. I understand you're planning on draining the tank, but those long runs will trickle a bit and you want it to end in a short length of pipe with a valve at the bottom, not in your air tools.
00:37
should I put in?
in Germany, every connection now has 3 phases (three-phase current "Drehstrom"). alternating current connections are slowly dying out
apart from that, we have alternating current 230 V and three-phase current 400 V
smaller cross-section (mm²) and more power (W). and since in principle almost all "final circuits" now have an RCD, everything is safe
How are you going to clean out the dust collector when its full from the attic space?
The best way to future proof a shop is do not use drywall. Use a wall covering that is removable, metal panel, trusscore, plywood, etc.
I like the Mr.Cool mini split. I installed one in my 1000ft shop and I've never been happier. Side note - you can do it "yourself" but for the love of god ask a friend to help lol.
I would've run the CAT6 cables in a pipe, with a pull-cord for each run left in. If you *ever* need to replace (or upgrade) those cables, the way you did it's going to be super tedious and near impossible in some cases.
Why can't you use PEX for compressed air? Just curious....
Not rated for pressurized gases. If it fails its a big fail since gases are compressible (water is not).
Great video
Siri actually worked!!! Do you have a Shopnation version of Siri? :)
from the one shot the pool looks a bit to close to the shop, so im curious to see how it turns out
Weird, Siri gave me a completely different response. Haha
I don't love the constructed PEX "manifold" in the ceiling. Maybe replace with a single unit and eliminate a lot of fittings.