Massey Ferguson Perkins 3.152 sleeve replacement and tear down
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video we start the process of rebuilding our Perkins that had low compression. We will be replacing the sleeves, pistons and showing how we pulled the sleeves.
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I think you will find it is your rear crankshaft rope oil seal? You can now remove this old style seal, and get the modified rubber ring seal with the new holder.
The Perkins 152 engine is one of the best engines ever! Once you have changed the old type seal.
Hope it all goes to plan 👍🚜🇬🇧
Funny thing, I did this job today, and I broke one of the sleeves just this way. Exactly the same error. Trying to push it in with the extractor tool.
It was the first one that broke for me.
The other two went well. The method I chose was to use a piece of wood, 2 x 4 ", to drag it in.
The wood seems to work fine. As it is a bit soft, it forms a grove were it pushes on the sleeve, and that grove stabilises things.
Naturally you can't get the sleeve all the way in this way. The last millimetre I pushed it in using the old sleeve sitting on top of it upside down.
These lines (sleeves) can sit 0.01 mm under the block surface.
Freeze the sleeves to install them
P/S, when fitting new sleaves, if You put them in your fridge, for an hour, then worm the block with a gas torch they will slide in much easier! 🚜🔧🇬🇧
I crashed one sleeve and my dad took it out of my check
Dang I will never forget that
lol 😊
If you can get your hands on a big container of liquid nitrogen, it will shrink those sleeves to where they will nearly drop in. Still have your puller ready as the sleeves will warm rapidly upon contacting the block metal.
I love these videos on rebuilding old tractor engines
I learned a lot please make more
Thanks we appreciate the compliment definitely more coming!
I have a freezer in my shop that I place new sleeves in before installation. The small amount of shrinkage helps the sleeve to press in a little easier. Also, piston ring gap placement does not really matter all that much since they rotate while the engine is running.
Couple light welds from top to bottom on the liner sleeve and they will slide out easy
Whoa! It's Wilford Brimley! Just kidding. Excellent video, sir!!!
Nice tutorial video. Just bought a Massey 245 with the 3 cylinder perkins diesel engine. It starts with almost half a can of starting fluid and she knocks and smokes alot. Never done an engine overhaul, but will attempt to over haul this perkins. I do wrench on engines all the time but never an out-of frame rebulid. Will like to ask you more questions. Thanks
Yes, the Easy-Start fluid, should Not, be used for any engine !
This stuff, "destroys piston rings" !
It was designed for emergencies and extreme cold. I am not sure, but it may have been made inishaly for the armed forces, so they could get mobileised in extreme weather, or danger?
Once you start using this stuff, the engine seems to become addicted to it, and it will not start unless you give it more each time. We had Drot 4 Cattapiler, 2.5 cans to get that going!
If You need Easy-Start, to get the engine going, it means the engine has very low compression, you will also see lots of blue smoke before it eventually fires up.
Only one cure, a total engine rebuild.
I agree there a tad smaller I think because I done them in 70 and with the same tools and now they go in easier for sure
Its a trusted enginge this 3.152 perkings ..😁🤗👏👏👏
On the cheap sleeves, they need top done a tad with ridge rimmer to put a tad of tapper on them
Buy the high quality ones
What I did for 60 years was number the block on side the rod number were on
Just takes a second to be safe and not remember everything
Доброго дня! Дядька, почему ты не используешь азот или углекислый газ для охлаждения гильз? блок тоже желательно разогреть. Домкрат конечно хорошо, но уж слишком туго гильзы заходят.
Put them sleeves in the freezer for a day or two before install.
Is there any way you can repost the video without the banjo playing?
Totally agree. Makes it hard to understand the words.
Good learnen.
Nice
Have you ever tried freezing them overnight?
We have and yes it can help.
I have an MF 40 industrial tractor with the 3.152 Perking gas engine. Can anyone tell me if the oil pan on this engine can be dropped without splitting the tractor? I suspect the rear cork seal on the engine is leaking engine oil pretty badly. Hoping I don't have to split the tractor to replace the pan gasket.
According to my book, then you cannot remove the pan without splitting the case. Sorry. I’m just getting ready to overhaul my master 35.
@@doylewarkentin8762 I found a procedure for dropping the oil pan without splitting the tractor. It worked well and allowed me to fix my massive oil leak. The oil pan is heavy cast iron on the MF40 industrial. You need a floor jack to raise and lower it. Anyway, it allowed me to repair an oil leak that appeared to be a bad rear seal but was actually a bad pan gasket.
@@paulwimmer1483 I’d like to know how to do that. I would like to check the bearings so I can order the correct kit. I don’t want to have it all apart for a long time while I am waiting on parts.
@@doylewarkentin8762 I used a floor jack under the bell housing to take some of the weight off of the center of the tractor. Then I removed all the pan bolts, the bolts that hold the pan to the bell housing, and the bolts that hold the front axle assembly to the pan. Once all the pan bolts are removed, I lowered the jack enough to let the frame flex very slightly. This allows enough clearance for the pan to be removed although you may need to do some prying on it. After cleaning the gasket surfaces and positioning the new gaskets, I used some lengths of all-thread rod in the block bolt holes to act as guides when positioning the pan and another floor jack to jack the pan up into position under the block. It worked pretty well Really, the hardest part was cleaning all the gasket surfaces on the underside of the block and prepositioning the cork gaskets on the arched surfaces of the front and rear main bearing housings. Once you get it apart and see how the rear bearing area is constructed, you will see how the engine oil gets past the rear part of the pan gasket and leaks out behind the bell housing like a leaky rear main seal does. I was thrilled to not have to replace the rear main seal on my tractor. Oil usage is minimal now and I have no plans to do any more work. on it.
@@paulwimmer1483 i’m doing a major rebuild anyway sleeves at all but I wanted to order the correct bearings in the kit because you can order it with standards tens 20s or 30s I guess and I want to have them on hand so I didn’t leave it apart very long.
I would like to find one of those add on cylinders for my port a power to be able to pull the sleeves, but I haven’t seen them yet. I don’t know what they’re called.
How much oil pressure it normally be?😊
1000000000..............................
Hi,
What is the name of that engine holder you have there?
Thanks v much
I have had it for many years but believe it came from northern tool
Is it me or does that tail pipe look oddly weird almost like the truck is small and the tip looks huge or something. 😆
😆 Yes that's because it is huge Cummins diesel in a Nisan Pathfinder.
The method is veryyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy pooooooooooooooooooorrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr...
And dangeroussssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss
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