I followed this procedure and let me tell you, from someone who had the same lock actuator problem, this fix actually works and it works flawlessly, don't listen to anyone, this fix is legit and it really works and it work like factory with zero issues, I'm also glad I saw this video, if saved me hundreds for the part and labor by my mechanic.
@@shebaadc cheers mate .. I appreciate u saying this and no need to convince me ... I'm the one who made the video lol ...but good on it does save hundreds of dollars
Holy crap that is an excellent fix for the door lock... who would have thought....indeed saves time and money... thanks for sharing this it will help alot of ppl..especially now you dont have to go through the mess of removing the inner door frame.... thats gold..keep em coming mikey
This video needs a thousand more likes! I just bought a two pack of door lock actuators for 11 dollars, and I only needed to fix one. Fixed my driver rear door lock exactly like this video. Easy peasy. Thanks for posting this!!!
aww your too kind mate..I really appreciate u saying that..but most of all I'm just glad it could help u out cuz for me that's why I started to do these videos cuz I was sick and tired of getting ripped at any mechanic for the smallest jobs ..
How did you do it? I just tried doing this on the rear door of my 2008 W204. But I can't as the pop-up button is not connected to a rod, but is actuated by a very thin wire running inside a plastic sleeve. I considered stripping the plastic sleeve, but the wire was too thin to fasten into the actuator connection block (and the wire would most likely just bend on actuation).
When i saw all the work you have to do in order to fix the door lock i said to myself no way!!! But after watching your video im prepared to attempt this as u made it look so easy
Re drivers door master actuator Hey Mikeyz, your video was incredibly helpful, thank you! Just to confirm drivers door fix is exactually the same (on a MB W169 A class) Dont worry about all the existing wires, just locate the 2 power, in this case black stripe and green stripe. If the close/unlock out of sequence, just reverse the connection. One point to remember is to make sure the drivers door is closed before testing otherwise the 'lock' function wont work. Thanks again Mike
Have problem with my two back doors on me ml mercedes seems to be a problem with them bought two actuators waitin on delieverly cheers pal saved me alot of money for the two of them €20 with shipping👍
hey guys thank you so much for all the support... if you want to support me further pls check out my patreon account under mikeyz vlogz...no obligation... www.patreon.com/mikeyzvlogz
Alright mate i have the same problem with mine but the door wont open so i cant do anything with it until it opens do you know how to get it open please mate? Just tried taking the panel off from the inside to see if it could be fixed but it defo needs to be open
@MIKEYZVLOGZ it won't open outside or inside, i think the lock actuator is broken and is behind a pivoted steel panel after you take the interior panel off and it reveals the door mechanisms. But where i think i need to get to is behind the pivoted steel panel, and it is impossible to get to with the door being closed. Had someone look at it today, and they are not sure how to fix it yet. Thanks for your quick reply mate
hey bud u may need a locksmith to help u try and open the door by using the tool that physically pulls on the door handle rod ...this is prolly what u need to do ..because ur unable to open the door at all... honestly I'm at a lost as I've never had to do this either..but I would def start with a locksmith automotive and check forums and ask around
I just did this to my w204 , works great ! The only thing I did differently was I used self tapping screws , not rivets, but did everything else the same. It works awesome! Thanks !
This is why we do how to videos on TH-cam for sure bro ! I should have filmed mine but you did such a good job I didnt feel the need to , as I couldn't improve on a single thing you did , good job ! And thanks again !
@MIKEYZVLOGZ Thank you so much for sharing the knowledge. Just installed and it works as normal. Indeed you deserve a compliment. 😊. Keep doing the great job.
I watched a lot of videos , i can say that this is The Best video , clear and easy, and cheap fix, i will try it on my w211.. greeting from Morocco 🇲🇦.
So, I really appreciate this video as (to your point) it saves time and money. It was a tight squeeze, but worked very well. Because it is a 2010 E350, the color schemes were off, but it is GREAT. I used the green w/black stripe wire and the all-green wire. The remaining wires I tied back to the 'older' actuator. Unfortunately, now the indoor lock switch will not work. I've checked and see 3 wires from the door switch on the driver's side. They are grey,grey, and black with white stripe. Any idea how to fix this? Best, Ken.
Hi, thanks for the video guide. Just did the fix on my driver side door. Didn't have pop rivet gun so used some self tap screws. All works great. Might have to do some adjustments as it doesn't pop up as far as it should. Probably need to adjust the clamp onto original rod. Maybe I didn't extend fully before attaching or the aftermarket rod is catching on door panel.
Mate just amazing u have saved me and im sure alot of other ppl money and time...thank you so much for taking the time to share...the info you share is priceless....
Just discovered this problem on my car the same door, right now. Thank you for this ill have to see what ima do to fix i was hoping it just needs a reset but seeing all this video seems ima have to get dirty hahahah
Amazing 👏 saved me hell lot of money and effort. A little tip. Where you have to grind for easy moment of the shaft. Just install a screw into the body near by so the screw takes all the load but the lock shaft.
Hi Mikey, Thanks again for your video and personal responses you have given me. I feel you should highlight the fact that the master after-market controller will also work as long as we use the correct colour wires as you prescribe. I feel you need to highlight the fact that there is minimal clearance for the new guide rod and that many many hours will be wasted by trying to move or bend the rods, in my case I had to do it so many times that I damaged the connecting bracket screws hence I needed to find a replacement. To help with the clearances I ultimately stuck some weather seal tape onto the door running parallel both sides to the connecting rod. This has allowed the clearances needed and now my after-market door actuator is working fine. Thanks again.
did uptake note of the fact that I shaved my door so the rod could slide up and down easily?? is this what ur referring to? .. that's why i s shaved the door instead of trying to do something else..because u can't see it on the inside and It will not show on the outside nor ruin the door in anyway... I basically shaved like 3 to 5mm off where the rod as rubbing ... and it worked perfectly
but thanks for ur input this will help others .hence why I leave comments section open so ppl can also give their experience in order ro help another I divided who has encountered the same problem
I have always stated that it's possible le to do the Master using same wires.. although in video I stated u may need the master ... it was just a precaution... but everdently will work because all your doing is supplying power to the actuator motor to spin wenever it gets 12v power introduced through the lock and u lock mechanism
For a 2010 E350 W212 driver's side replacement,I was was succesful in installing 2-wire solution to green w/black and solid green. Remote key fob works, but not inside manual door lock switch. My question: In the scenario above (w212 driver front), should I use master actuator, or better yet can I attach both 2-wire new actuator wires to the wires off the inside door switch? Anyone been through this?@@MIKEYZVLOGZ
I'm looking to do the same for both front doors. You said something about master and slave units? I don't see that distinction made for units sold on AliExpress.
@TheHomnguyen ok so it actually doesn't matter .. wen I bought mine it did make that distinction..hence why I thought it mattered ..but it really doesn't.. just use the slave one for any and it will be fine
Hi Mikey. Another request for a video on fitting the actuator on the W204 rear door. I have had a go, but can't see how to connect the actuator to the existing door button as there isn't a rod. It is actuated by a very thin wire running inside a blue plastic tube (which runs the length of the door). the wire slides inside the tube (works like a bicycle brake/gear cable). I suspect that if I cut the sleeving, and somehow manage to connect the replacement actuator to the exposed wire, that the wire would just bend on actuation. Cheers John
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ I try to install the actuator, but it just only active when i press unlock. no response when i lock by the key. do i need to unplug the green plug and put it back in? is only of the fuse is broken?
@@raymondfong32 it should work maybe a connection loose cuz should be simple two wires to power device .. so wen u press lock and unlock it sends power to the device to spin ..that way it keeps rotating and locks and unlocks ... that how it works .. so in your case ..u must be missing something
I have an A170 which won't lock with the key but WILL lock itself when driving, so it's probably not the actuator right? However it can't be the key either because it does lock all other locks except the driver side. Edit: turns out it was just the key batteries, 2x new CR2025 batteries fixed all 4 door locks instantly.
I have a 2009 ML 350 that the driver side door actuator is not working correctly. Will this fix work on it? In your video you mentioned that this fix works on the other doors but I’m not sure what you meant as far as what I need to do on the driver side.
hi mate thanks for watching. what I meant is you can use this same fix on any other door rear ... and u don't need a master cylinder for driver door ..just a slave will work..so long as u identify the 2 wires that supply power to your factory actuator..connect the after market to it and it will work the same
Season greetings pal. I have have been looking forever for a video like this one as I have the very same issue (left passenger door) with my c200 1.8l cgi for over two years.There is a similar video on the MB forum but it was not as detailed as this one.Actually, because of that video I bought four actuators but when came to the installation I chickened out because of the unclear directions. Yours have given me hope to finally repair this problem. Is it necessary to cut those two wires? In the MB forum video the guy simply connected as you did and it worked.Many thanks for your presence on this forum.All the best for 2021.
yes only cut the two wires u are using .. do not cut any other wires as u will lose a function ... just cut the two wires i connected to and u will be ok and everything will work 100%.. merry Xmas and happy new year to u too
Hey man! Love the video, super helpful. I’m trying to do this myself on my 2007 GL 450, but the wire colors are different going to my right rear door actuator. Would you happen to know which ones I should splice?
hey bud so sorry as i haven't worked on your car before its hard for me to say , what u need to do is find your door schematics, and it will tell u which is which wire, however when u open the door u should be able to see what goes to the door actuator and that will def get u one step closer , for me , after i knew which cables they were i still has to confirm, so i followed the wires and triple checked they went to my actuator, in the end there should only be 2 wires that power the actuator becuz all it does is send the power wen u lock and unlock, its actually very straight forward wen u break it down, but i know it can be overwhelming, my best advice is find the schematics, or ask forums and someone can guide u very quickly, im just sorry i dont work on your specific car and all cars have different wiring
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ no worries, thanks for the quick response. The way our doors are set up, they are very similar. Just like yours, I have 5 wires wrapped in fabric that go into a hole towards the actuator. Do you know of anyway I can test which ones give power to the actuator without taking the whole door apart? lol I’m guessing I could maybe just test the voltage on each of those wires, but haven’t tried it yet. All good if you don’t have an answer, just talking out loud here
I have to get it done when i get somewhere that aftermarket part 😁 but what wires you have to cut, this video looks like that you are cutting more wires than only two ? 14.08 looks like there is pink wire also cutted 🤔 but very good video 👌 have to know the right wires
Aftermarket part came today and I put it in place and it works so thank you again 👌I buy it aliexpress two pc and only 12 euros. Only problem is that door panel do not fit in place 😄 little bit different part than you do so have to measure more and drill new holes etc. but I know it fits someday 😁 Here in Finland in the autumn second problem is that here always raining and have to fix outside so it is little bit annoying
Hi I need to use this door actuator but I need the master for my 2003 clk 240 the master has 5 wires. blue.white . Black.brown and green can you please tell me which wires to connect to on the driver's door like which colour connects to which colour of the car door wires thanks.
easiest way is to find tour cars schematics ... I'm sorry to say that I'm now familiar with your model ... I habe only worked on the w204 door lock actuator ..but if u follow the wires see which ones goto the actuator ..same way I did in this video ...... then there is always trial and error ... u can just use a slave actuator ... as it works as well... the main is just rendered to as the master ... but u can use the slave in place ... u can find tour cars or schematics ..or Google it and someone would have done it before so they can tell u which cables power the actuator
I have 2009 ML350 , the power locks don't work on 3 of the doors , l located the 2 power wires with a test light for the lock and unlock modes - however the aftermarket actuator won't work when wired it in -what am I missing ?- it seems like they get power correctly but the ground isn't working
that's odd it should work ... it only needs power sent ro the lock ... did u test to ensure it is getting 12v with a multimeter? put pps and neg to appropriate wires and then press lock and unlock it should show the voltage going to the wires ... check the door module and follow the wires ensure no breaks ... check fuses too relaying to door ... also follow the wires ensure no shorting is happening ..this happened to my seat for my w203 ..I had to flow the cable all the way to the plug harness and voila there it was ... where the seat folds...it was shorting there ... pos and neg were stripped and touching causing the short ..hence auto seats adjustment weren't working
ok guys i just wanted to clarify that you only cut the cables you need to use , the GREY WITH A BLUE STRIPE and the GREY WITH A BLACK STRIPE.. DO NOT CUT ANY OTHER CABLES AS IT WILL INTERFERE WITH THE ROTARY TUMBLE SWITCH WHICH CONTROL POWER TO YOUR COURTESY LIGHT FOR THAT DOOR... only cutr the wires you are going to use to send signal to and from your aftermarket actuator..thats it ..hope this is more clear and clarifies things abit more and for the master lock (DRIVER DOOR) its the same just use the same wires and wire them up the same and bob's your uncle.. done deal
thanks Mikey i was going to ask about that as i didn't think cutting the other wires was a good idea. i've just received a pair of actuators this morning both my front doors c200 sport AMG 2007. don't lock. i'll be fitting them asap. Ebay 2 for £9.40 uk.
well done ..as I stated in other comments .. I was sceptical about whether u needed a slave for driver door ... and after fellow subscriber told me he did the same I was corrected and now understand that u can do the exact same to the driver side
Ingenious, I just ran into this as I worked through some of my codes and although I have a 2010 W212, i’m going to attempt to see if this is possible. As others have done, I too saw the insane labor involved and honestly, I accepted the fact of having to manually lock and unlock. Huge thanks for the idea and I hope to report back that this is possible on the W212 as well.
Hi Dave ive got the 2010 E350 W212 and have had an issue with my rear drivers side actuator not working. I am really thankful to Mikey for doing the 2 wire Universal Mod and was thinking i should try this aswell! Any luck with doing yours yet??
@@AsimEden I hate to say it but I haven’t had the opportunity to do this yet, I have plans to take care of this in the next 2 days so hopefully I should be able to let you know. I was able to order the actuators from Amazon which came as a pair for $10 and I picked up a box of assorted solder-less heatshrink connectors and assorted heatshrink to complete all for under $30 total. I will say what gave me the biggest issue and something I may be able to ultimately help you with is making sure of the 2 correct wires to connect to. I bought the Emanual online and although it was only $27 and it is basically the exact same program the stealership uses, including work hours and write ups for charges. The problem with this was I expected a PDF workshop manual that turned out to be a very difficult program requiring to download another program to run. It makes it difficult to find what you need unless you’ve been trained to use a factory dealership program. It took a couple of weeks during the days i had to spend on it, to learn how to navigate and find the diagram I needed and then I had to change my Bios to run the system to print out the needed info. So if you are considering a manual don’t use Emanual, I would try a different one, but also if i’m successful then I would be happy to let you know if the rears are the same colors or exactly what they are. I hope to report back in the next few days.
@@davemccready6013 Dave please dont worry dude..... my actuator has been duff for the last 2 years lmao so no worrys you're doing ok! I've had some experience with these manuals and didnt bother in the end, even the Mercedes WIS/ASRA/EPC programs you can get on ebay and the like are really difficult to install. The saving grace here is that Mikey has quite nicely explained very well the wiring code with regards to the door actuator (Grey-Blue and Grey-Black). MB are pretty consistant with their colour coding so should be the same on ours. I noted that you have come across the low melt solder heatshrink, did a job on a VW Sharan fault with regards to the Fuel Temperature Sensor last week. The guy brought it to me after his mechanic had fitted a new sensor but the fault code and money light was still on. I found the fault to be a broken wire in the loom which was telling the ECU that the Voltage was high from the sensor so Engine light was put on. Found the wire break and used this solder heatshrink, worked beautifully! I've also found the Universal actuator on ebay and have ordered today......depending on the weather this weekend i might give it ago. i will let you know what i find behind the panel.
@@AsimEden I’m in the same boat going on 2 years of locking the drivers door manually from the rear. So Mikey was a god sent idea. Glad to hear about the connectors since this is my first go at using them, not a fan of crimped. As far as the wiring goes the colors are different on my front drivers door according to the diagram, but should know for sure tomorrow. I’ll update what the colors are and post an FYI.
i havent done them as yet but i am def gonna do it..cuz u guys have been asking alot about them..if u scroll through the comments same principle..there is a sweet spot for them too...just gotta make it work ... ppl have already successfully done using same principle
@MIKEYZVLOGZ they have a different mech for the pop up lock though same wires I'm guessing just have to tie it into the factory pop up the correct way I guess. Thanks heaps for your express fast reply mate 👍
Question my w204 2010 c350 4M is left hand drive (canada) the driver size lock not working (left) and what is that about when I look at the Amazon. They have a kit with 4 actuators 3 of them with 2 wires and one have 5 wires. What is that one with 5 wires for ?
My 2015 ML350 w166 appears to be locked, but rear passenger door can be opened from outside with alarm set. Door opens and alarm sounds. Manual lock goes up and down, but door opens when lock indicator is down. Same fix??? Thank you
Hi mikey. Good news i installed slave actuator drivers door w204..works fantastic! Just cut grey wire with blue stripe.and attached blue wire to it.green to grey with black stripe..thanks again for your great tutorial videos👍👍❤
HI MIKEY. I amm looking for the same actuator for my W204's passenger door, haven't been able to find the same as in your video on Ebay. can you put me in the right direction please? It's an Right Hand drive.
Mine has a similar problem. The door pin will not go down when the door is open even if I push down hard but it goes down as normal when the door is closed. Is it the actuator or is something stuck?
Mikey, you are undoubtedly a genius and I bought the actuators so thanks, but my wires don’t have any grey/black or gray/blue. And I don’t think I can trace back to actuator without removing the metal plate. Any suggestions?
there must be a way to trace the wires out from the actuator .. in ur case I would try get the schematics and see exactly which wires are for the actuator that way u don't have to trace or guess
Hey thank you for your super quick response man. I’m gonna pimp you everywhere. But I did see that I have eight wires going into my actuator. Six of them go into a pin clip and the other two I can’t figure out where they go. I can’t help it I think the other two are going to be my power. Thoughts?
@@terrymurtha2451 that's my best guess ... schematics would definitely help... apart from that I would onl suggest tracing the wire ... another good place to ask is the forums ..maybe someone else has had the same issue and there's an answer already ...
definitely abit different but I haven't had any issues as yet so haven't done it ..but I def will consider it as alot of u guys have been asking for it so def will do it ...
Hey man, was wondering if you could help: my w205 coupe door is frameless so it retracts whenever the door opens. The issue is that sometimes when the door is opened the window does not retract, sometimes I have to wait from seconds to minutes until it ‘recognises’ it has been opened before I can lock the car. Without it recognising it has been opened, the car’s dashboard doesn’t switch off and I can’t lock it. Was wondering if you could help?
hey bud thanks for stopping by . unfortunately I haven't had the opportunity to work on a w205 as yet ... apart from pulling the steering wheel off one ... I haven't done anything else to a 205 .. I'm sorry to say I'm not too sure tbh... I would never pretend to know something I don't.. that's just disingenuous
Hi friend to be honest. I'm not too sure.. if u have a manual I suggest looking through that or use google and search for what u want to know... ud be surprised what u can find on the net. Wish I could be more help but in only really familiar with the w203 and w204 as they are the cars I own... apologies
ok so it doesn't matter ..u can still use the slave for driver side just follow the same cable colours... it will still work..I was simply just trying to state the rest are slave compared to the master where the main unit is..but u can still use the slave gor the driver side and it'll work just fine..the principle is to give power to the actuator wen u press lock and unlock which intern sends ppwer to the lock actuator motor which then spins and locks then unlocks the door ..that's it
Hey, thanks for your video. I have MB w164 and I’m try do the same like you said, but I have another color of wires. And it’s only close the door but not open. I have white, brown, pink with black line and purple with black line. Maybe you have some ideas what I do wrong. Thank you.
Thank you for the video!! I have been looking for something like this. I have a ML350 and I'm about to change my passenger door lock, but I don't have the color wires you have. I looked up the schematics and I believe my pink/black and white/black are what I need to cut, but how do i know what to connect the blue to and the green to? what is the difference? I didn't see you explain the difference in your video or i missed it somehow. also, you cut wires to power. do i also need to cut some power wires? or just the two wires only? thanks in advance
as for the blue and green ..u just do a trial and error test run ... im pretty sure polarity doesn't matter .. follow the wires that come right off the actuator ..whichever powers the actuator..you connect to those wires and ur good to go.. the actuator only needs power to spin so when u press lock or unlock it send power to the actuator to spin ..that's it.. but u can always switch em around if it doesn't work
@meltn2me dw it's only 2 cables ur really connecting ..u can't really stuff up... even wen i cut the wrong cable it's color coded so u just reconnect ... and all g..i accidentally cut the rotary tumbler switch cable and it was for the door led..it somehow related to it and luckily i noticed and reconnected it ..now all is well and locks back to normal
Hi. Great video. Did I understand correctly that it cannot be fitted to the driver's door? Is it possible to only splice it to the wires to the motor leaving all the others? ps this motor looks suspiciously like that on the steering lock. How many cheap Chinese motors are there on this "premium " brand?
lol...I know right...for such a beautiful name brand car ..why did they cheap out on certain parts? that's the question isn't it... and as for drivers door... usually u would use a master actuator lock...but I guess in theory all u need to do is provide power to the lock actuator so it can lock and unlock the car lock... so with that said ...it just may be possible to use the exact same for driver side ... cuz all ur really doing is connecting a power circuit so that wenever a lock button is pressed it will power the actuator so it can spin locking and unlocking the lock 🔐
actually it's the same fix u can fix it the exact same way no difference...at first I thought being a master lock actuator it was different to but after some research..the fix is the exact same mate ... no difference ..all that matters is that the pock get power when u pock and unlock the car .and that's what the two wires do
So to clarify whomever references this, I did this on a W212 E350. Only two wires to cut. I cut the green with the black stripe and the green. I connected the green wire of the universal actuator to the green with the black stripe, and the blue of the universal actuator to the green. Because this is the master, you will notice when testing that it will unlock but not lock when the door is open. This is normal. When it is the driver’s side door, you are not able to lock from the inside nor lock on the key fob with the door open as this is a way for the manufacturer to help the operator from not locking their car without their keys. I had to cut the foam on the inside of the door card that was removed to make room for the new actuator. It is a big block of foam - I cut it flat.
Hello Mikey thanks for the tips mate you helped me also with my ESL 👌 My rear passenger door UK model won’t open even though both outside and inside handles feel really solid so nothing feels out of place or broken. Do you have any tips for that ? Is the replacement door lock actuator going to fix this issue? Thanks a lot
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ it doesn’t unlock (key fob) When I do pull the handle from the interior the lock pin pops up but the door won’t open. Obviously I am careful doing that as I have seen lots of them braking.
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ is this wire accessible easily or do I have to remove the window and get to the mechanism ? Also are those £15 universal locks suitable for the rear doors ? Obviously sorting out the wire is one thing but while I am doing that I probably would have to change the actuator it didn’t sound that lively..voltage is good and battery in almost brand new
it can and will... I was told from another subscriber that it's the same procedure on both doors... driver side is referred to as master and other doors as slave .. if u use the same cables and install the actuator.. all that matters is that wen u lock and unlock it powers the actuator to spin and thereby locking and unlocking ... the actuator is a motor that spins infinite rotations according to when u gibe power to it.. everytime u press lock or unlock. it send power to the actuator and spend the motor in turn it locks and unlocks... hope this makes sense ..so in theory it will work..and I've also been confirmed by others as well
Mine didn't lock or unlock. So I smack the where your door locks to the car and it works. There was a noise I heard when it lock. I just smack that part.
Im in NZ and tried clicking the link to buy but it comes up page is missing. Is there anywhere else i can buy from, if not NZ maybe Australia. Thank you.
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ Just finished installing an actuator in one of my rear doors and all is fine. Same colour coded wiring. It was bit more involved because part of the lock cable has to be stripped and then secured.
? sorry hud not sure what ur asking? do u mean which cables ? colour codes? cuz its all there in the video ... and there's only 2 wires you need to connect to power the actuator so that wen u press lock or unlock it powers it and spins it to lock and unlock ... very straight forward ..are u asking about something else ? how u find then..u open the entire door frame and expose all the wires that are in the door ..then u follow which wires goto your factory lock actuator ..once u have determines which cables are for the actuator u connect them to your universal actuator ..it just needs pos and neg for power that's it ..no other cables needed
So my driver door accuator is gone, im looking for the "Universal Car Central Door Lock Actuator locking Motor Gun - MASTER verison" ? is this correct? thanks!
same pinciple u can use a slave lock actuator doesnt have to be a master ..so long as it gets power wen u lock and unlock it will do the exact same job.. it has been confirmed by other subscribers its the exact same job
I did ...but do not do that... u only need to cut the 2 wires I mentioned...I don't talk about it as it's not part of it .. do as I say not as I do...😂... it was a small oversight...but quickly realised door lights weren't working so reconnected them and now all is well.. so only cut the 2 wires
yes it will it's just to change the motor that spins the lock the alarm is connected via cars ignition system and ecu and that's what tells alarm to activate and deactivate when u lock unlock
My car is a 2011 ML350. I have more wires than you show and no gray striped wires, Do you know which factory wires I should use on my car? I can see that everything else should mount okay.
no as I haven't needed to do it.. however I've been told that it is possible and it's the same procedure ... just ensure u check and measure a spot that will house the actuator before going any further
I followed this procedure and let me tell you, from someone who had the same lock actuator problem, this fix actually works and it works flawlessly, don't listen to anyone, this fix is legit and it really works and it work like factory with zero issues, I'm also glad I saw this video, if saved me hundreds for the part and labor by my mechanic.
@@shebaadc cheers mate .. I appreciate u saying this and no need to convince me ... I'm the one who made the video lol ...but good on it does save hundreds of dollars
Holy crap that is an excellent fix for the door lock... who would have thought....indeed saves time and money... thanks for sharing this it will help alot of ppl..especially now you dont have to go through the mess of removing the inner door frame.... thats gold..keep em coming mikey
Great detailed instructions - installed one myself following your instructions and now I have power locks again.
This video needs a thousand more likes! I just bought a two pack of door lock actuators for 11 dollars, and I only needed to fix one. Fixed my driver rear door lock exactly like this video. Easy peasy. Thanks for posting this!!!
aww your too kind mate..I really appreciate u saying that..but most of all I'm just glad it could help u out cuz for me that's why I started to do these videos cuz I was sick and tired of getting ripped at any mechanic for the smallest jobs ..
which colored wires did you cut because the rear doors have different colored wires for my w204
hey bud cannu pls share the wires u used for a fellow subscriber pls ..as he just needs some help locating the wires needed
How did you do it? I just tried doing this on the rear door of my 2008 W204. But I can't as the pop-up button is not connected to a rod, but is actuated by a very thin wire running inside a plastic sleeve. I considered stripping the plastic sleeve, but the wire was too thin to fasten into the actuator connection block (and the wire would most likely just bend on actuation).
When i saw all the work you have to do in order to fix the door lock i said to myself no way!!! But after watching your video im prepared to attempt this as u made it look so easy
Before watching u i was so afraid..now i try it all and have managed to save a ton of $$$
Re drivers door master actuator Hey Mikeyz, your video was incredibly helpful, thank you! Just to confirm drivers door fix is exactually the same (on a MB W169 A class) Dont worry about all the existing wires, just locate the 2 power, in this case black stripe and green stripe. If the close/unlock out of sequence, just reverse the connection. One point to remember is to make sure the drivers door is closed before testing otherwise the 'lock' function wont work. Thanks again Mike
Yep it's what I knew all along
I did this to my w204, the universal actuator lasted about 1.5 years, luckily I bought a 2 pack and the replacement took me 15 mins total!
yeah desnt last forever
Have problem with my two back doors on me ml mercedes seems to be a problem with them bought two actuators waitin on delieverly cheers pal saved me alot of money for the two of them €20 with shipping👍
hey guys thank you so much for all the support... if you want to support me further pls check out my patreon account under mikeyz vlogz...no obligation... www.patreon.com/mikeyzvlogz
Alright mate i have the same problem with mine but the door wont open so i cant do anything with it until it opens do you know how to get it open please mate? Just tried taking the panel off from the inside to see if it could be fixed but it defo needs to be open
@@Kingy94_- u can't open from the outside? or the lock pin won't unlock either M
@MIKEYZVLOGZ it won't open outside or inside, i think the lock actuator is broken and is behind a pivoted steel panel after you take the interior panel off and it reveals the door mechanisms. But where i think i need to get to is behind the pivoted steel panel, and it is impossible to get to with the door being closed. Had someone look at it today, and they are not sure how to fix it yet. Thanks for your quick reply mate
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ did you suss it out mate
hey bud u may need a locksmith to help u try and open the door by using the tool that physically pulls on the door handle rod ...this is prolly what u need to do ..because ur unable to open the door at all... honestly I'm at a lost as I've never had to do this either..but I would def start with a locksmith automotive and check forums and ask around
I just did this to my w204 , works great ! The only thing I did differently was I used self tapping screws , not rivets, but did everything else the same. It works awesome! Thanks !
well done mate glad it worked
This is why we do how to videos on TH-cam for sure bro ! I should have filmed mine but you did such a good job I didnt feel the need to , as I couldn't improve on a single thing you did , good job ! And thanks again !
@MIKEYZVLOGZ Thank you so much for sharing the knowledge. Just installed and it works as normal. Indeed you deserve a compliment. 😊. Keep doing the great job.
cheers friend I appreciate u mate
I watched a lot of videos , i can say that this is The Best video , clear and easy, and cheap fix, i will try it on my w211..
greeting from Morocco 🇲🇦.
thanks
Did you end up doing it on your w211 I have the same car and was wondering if there is space for that!
So, I really appreciate this video as (to your point) it saves time and money. It was a tight squeeze, but worked very well. Because it is a 2010 E350, the color schemes were off, but it is GREAT. I used the green w/black stripe wire and the all-green wire. The remaining wires I tied back to the 'older' actuator. Unfortunately, now the indoor lock switch will not work. I've checked and see 3 wires from the door switch on the driver's side. They are grey,grey, and black with white stripe. Any idea how to fix this? Best, Ken.
Hi, thanks for the video guide. Just did the fix on my driver side door. Didn't have pop rivet gun so used some self tap screws. All works great. Might have to do some adjustments as it doesn't pop up as far as it should. Probably need to adjust the clamp onto original rod. Maybe I didn't extend fully before attaching or the aftermarket rod is catching on door panel.
did u shave the door abit cuz the rod rubs on the door panel that's why I shaved it
Hello everyone! Just wanna ask if anybody tried this on their rears? Thank you everyone and thanks Mike for a very helpful videos! Bless y'all!
Mate just amazing u have saved me and im sure alot of other ppl money and time...thank you so much for taking the time to share...the info you share is priceless....
Just discovered this problem on my car the same door, right now. Thank you for this ill have to see what ima do to fix i was hoping it just needs a reset but seeing all this video seems ima have to get dirty hahahah
ye .an no way around it ur gonna have to just do it .. very simple and easy fix
Thank you friend, it is the best I have seen, I have broken looking and had not found and it has been very helpful, thank you, thank you, thank you
so welcome
Thank you, finally found time to do this today. 15 quid and a hours work, it's sorted 👍
What part was it?
I can't recall this was ages ago but I just bought "universal actuator" off amazon
@@danielbarnatt9332thanks mate. Wife’s c class drivers doors giving her this issue I’m going to try and attack it on the weekend !
Amazing 👏 saved me hell lot of money and effort. A little tip. Where you have to grind for easy moment of the shaft. Just install a screw into the body near by so the screw takes all the load but the lock shaft.
good tip I'm glad it helped u out .. this is something everyone should learn because it really does save so much time and $$
Now thats a genius idea saves time and money just excellent as always
Hi Mikey, Thanks again for your video and personal responses you have given me. I feel you should highlight the fact that the master after-market controller will also work as long as we use the correct colour wires as you prescribe. I feel you need to highlight the fact that there is minimal clearance for the new guide rod and that many many hours will be wasted by trying to move or bend the rods, in my case I had to do it so many times that I damaged the connecting bracket screws hence I needed to find a replacement. To help with the clearances I ultimately stuck some weather seal tape onto the door running parallel both sides to the connecting rod. This has allowed the clearances needed and now my after-market door actuator is working fine. Thanks again.
did uptake note of the fact that I shaved my door so the rod could slide up and down easily?? is this what ur referring to? .. that's why i s
shaved the door instead of trying to do something else..because u can't see it on the inside and It will not show on the outside nor ruin the door in anyway... I basically shaved like 3 to 5mm off where the rod as rubbing ... and it worked perfectly
but thanks for ur input this will help others .hence why I leave comments section open so ppl can also give their experience in order ro help another I divided who has encountered the same problem
I have always stated that it's possible le to do the Master using same wires.. although in video I stated u may need the master ... it was just a precaution... but everdently will work because all your doing is supplying power to the actuator motor to spin wenever it gets 12v power introduced through the lock and u lock mechanism
For a 2010 E350 W212 driver's side replacement,I was was succesful in installing 2-wire solution to green w/black and solid green. Remote key fob works, but not inside manual door lock switch. My question: In the scenario above (w212 driver front), should I use master actuator, or better yet can I attach both 2-wire new actuator wires to the wires off the inside door switch? Anyone been through this?@@MIKEYZVLOGZ
Beautiful video, this will save people thousands of dollars at the dealership
I hope so
Thank you for sharing. I wish I had seen this before I had wasted time and money replacing faultty cheap mercedes parts. Mercedes should be ashame.
indeed
I like it mikey looks nice i dont know what other ppl like but i think looks really nice
Thanks. This work good on my Norwegian 2007 W204 both sides front. You save me alot of money.
ur welcome
I'm looking to do the same for both front doors. You said something about master and slave units? I don't see that distinction made for units sold on AliExpress.
@TheHomnguyen ok so it actually doesn't matter .. wen I bought mine it did make that distinction..hence why I thought it mattered ..but it really doesn't.. just use the slave one for any and it will be fine
Got delieverly today fitted two of them in a hour brilliant 👍
well done
Hi Mikey, Brilliant Videos and thanks for saving us all a lot of time and money with this mod. Looking forward to checking out your other videos!
thank you! very useful
with your tips it was a lot easier. Had it solved in just about 40 minutes
magnificent
Hi Mikey. Another request for a video on fitting the actuator on the W204 rear door. I have had a go, but can't see how to connect the actuator to the existing door button as there isn't a rod. It is actuated by a very thin wire running inside a blue plastic tube (which runs the length of the door). the wire slides inside the tube (works like a bicycle brake/gear cable). I suspect that if I cut the sleeving, and somehow manage to connect the replacement actuator to the exposed wire, that the wire would just bend on actuation. Cheers John
ok imma look into it
I was thinking of this method for my ml w163 , then I found your video!!
cool man hope it helps u
cool man hope it helps u
Just done my passenger door. Thanks for the tips Mikey. Works as good as new! Cheers dude!
very happy to hear it mate..good job
Do you remember the wire colors?
@@djnegro_ct7783 meine
Could you please do a back door actulator as it looks a lot more difficult Thanks great videos
I don't have the problem as yet buy I will try and see if I can do a guide for u
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ thanks would really appreciate it
About to give this a try. Having the same problem with my driver lock on my Mercedes as well.
u;; be ok, good on y a
How did you go with driver door
Hi Mickey. Thanks for this you save me a lot of money. Great idea. Keep up the good work.
I did some digging and the driver side is the same as the passenger side guys so easy fix
Great information and I just have the same case for my front left and right doors. I am going to order it from China coz I am in Hong Kong. Thank you.
good on. ya
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ I try to install the actuator, but it just only active when i press unlock. no response when i lock by the key. do i need to unplug the green plug and put it back in? is only of the fuse is broken?
@@raymondfong32 it should work maybe a connection loose cuz should be simple two wires to power device .. so wen u press lock and unlock it sends power to the device to spin ..that way it keeps rotating and locks and unlocks ... that how it works .. so in your case ..u must be missing something
Mikeyz could you please do a back door universal actulator please as it looks a lot more complicated
Thanks
I'll try do 1 asap
Thanks Look forward to it as it is a lot more difficult to do
I have an A170 which won't lock with the key but WILL lock itself when driving, so it's probably not the actuator right? However it can't be the key either because it does lock all other locks except the driver side. Edit: turns out it was just the key batteries, 2x new CR2025 batteries fixed all 4 door locks instantly.
Thanks heaps. Saved me a lot of headache
awesome news .. good on ya
I have a 2009 ML 350 that the driver side door actuator is not working correctly. Will this fix work on it? In your video you mentioned that this fix works on the other doors but I’m not sure what you meant as far as what I need to do on the driver side.
hi mate thanks for watching. what I meant is you can use this same fix on any other door rear ... and u don't need a master cylinder for driver door ..just a slave will work..so long as u identify the 2 wires that supply power to your factory actuator..connect the after market to it and it will work the same
Season greetings pal. I have have been looking forever for a video like this one as I have the very same issue (left passenger door) with my c200 1.8l cgi for over two years.There is a similar video on the MB forum but it was not as detailed as this one.Actually, because of that video I bought four actuators but when came to the installation I chickened out because of the unclear directions. Yours have given me hope to finally repair this problem. Is it necessary to cut those two wires? In the MB forum video the guy simply connected as you did and it worked.Many thanks for your presence on this forum.All the best for 2021.
yes only cut the two wires u are using .. do not cut any other wires as u will lose a function ... just cut the two wires i connected to and u will be ok and everything will work 100%.. merry Xmas and happy new year to u too
Hey man! Love the video, super helpful. I’m trying to do this myself on my 2007 GL 450, but the wire colors are different going to my right rear door actuator. Would you happen to know which ones I should splice?
hey bud so sorry as i haven't worked on your car before its hard for me to say
, what u need to do is find your door schematics, and it will tell u which is which wire, however when u open the door u should be able to see what goes to the door actuator and that will def get u one step closer , for me , after i knew which cables they were i still has to confirm, so i followed the wires and triple checked they went to my actuator, in the end there should only be 2 wires that power the actuator becuz all it does is send the power wen u lock and unlock, its actually very straight forward wen u break it down, but i know it can be overwhelming, my best advice is find the schematics, or ask forums and someone can guide u very quickly, im just sorry i dont work on your specific car and all cars have different wiring
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ no worries, thanks for the quick response. The way our doors are set up, they are very similar. Just like yours, I have 5 wires wrapped in fabric that go into a hole towards the actuator. Do you know of anyway I can test which ones give power to the actuator without taking the whole door apart? lol I’m guessing I could maybe just test the voltage on each of those wires, but haven’t tried it yet. All good if you don’t have an answer, just talking out loud here
I have to get it done when i get somewhere that aftermarket part 😁 but what wires you have to cut, this video looks like that you are cutting more wires than only two ? 14.08 looks like there is pink wire also cutted 🤔 but very good video 👌 have to know the right wires
i tell u in the video which ones to cut and i also explain on the comment as well
Aftermarket part came today and I put it in place and it works so thank you again 👌I buy it aliexpress two pc and only 12 euros.
Only problem is that door panel do not fit in place 😄 little bit different part than you do so have to measure more and drill new holes etc. but I know it fits someday 😁
Here in Finland in the autumn second problem is that here always raining and have to fix outside so it is little bit annoying
excellent news mate
U cut 4 wire u explain 2 to connect which other 2 did u cut?@@MIKEYZVLOGZ
Hi Mike, how about if its the driver door on a left hand drive W204, will this fix work? Thanks!!
yeo sure will if u read the comments ppl have used same procedure for left and right door, doesn't matter if its master cylinder
Hi I need to use this door actuator but I need the master for my 2003 clk 240 the master has 5 wires. blue.white . Black.brown and green can you please tell me which wires to connect to on the driver's door like which colour connects to which colour of the car door wires thanks.
easiest way is to find tour cars schematics ... I'm sorry to say that I'm now familiar with your model ... I habe only worked on the w204 door lock actuator ..but if u follow the wires see which ones goto the actuator ..same way I did in this video ...... then there is always trial and error ... u can just use a slave actuator ... as it works as well... the main is just rendered to as the master ... but u can use the slave in place ... u can find tour cars or schematics ..or Google it and someone would have done it before so they can tell u which cables power the actuator
I have 2009 ML350 , the power locks don't work on 3 of the doors , l located the 2 power wires with a test light for the lock and unlock modes - however the aftermarket actuator won't work when wired it in -what am I missing ?- it seems like they get power correctly but the ground isn't working
that's odd it should work ... it only needs power sent ro the lock ... did u test to ensure it is getting 12v with a multimeter? put pps and neg to appropriate wires and then press lock and unlock it should show the voltage going to the wires ... check the door module and follow the wires ensure no breaks ... check fuses too relaying to door ... also follow the wires ensure no shorting is happening ..this happened to my seat for my w203 ..I had to flow the cable all the way to the plug harness and voila there it was ... where the seat folds...it was shorting there ... pos and neg were stripped and touching causing the short ..hence auto seats adjustment weren't working
Excellent workaround thanks for showing
ok guys i just wanted to clarify that you only cut the cables you need to use , the GREY WITH A BLUE STRIPE and the GREY WITH A BLACK STRIPE..
DO NOT CUT ANY OTHER CABLES AS IT WILL INTERFERE WITH THE ROTARY TUMBLE SWITCH WHICH CONTROL POWER TO YOUR COURTESY LIGHT FOR THAT DOOR...
only cutr the wires you are going to use to send signal to and from your aftermarket actuator..thats it ..hope this is more clear and clarifies things abit more and for the master lock (DRIVER DOOR) its the same just use the same wires and wire them up the same and bob's your uncle.. done deal
Is it the same wires for 02 c320?
@@ulicesrodriguez3178 I don't think so different model
thanks Mikey i was going to ask about that as i didn't think cutting the other wires was a good idea. i've just received a pair of actuators this morning both my front doors c200 sport AMG 2007. don't lock. i'll be fitting them asap. Ebay 2 for £9.40 uk.
How can I find out which wires to cut for a 2011 E350 passenger front door ??
@@brandonmassinburg follow the wires coming from the actuator
tried it on my driver side door and it worked
well done ..as I stated in other comments .. I was sceptical about whether u needed a slave for driver door ... and after fellow subscriber told me he did the same I was corrected and now understand that u can do the exact same to the driver side
Ingenious, I just ran into this as I worked through some of my codes and although I have a 2010 W212, i’m going to attempt to see if this is possible. As others have done, I too saw the insane labor involved and honestly, I accepted the fact of having to manually lock and unlock.
Huge thanks for the idea and I hope to report back that this is possible on the W212 as well.
good luck I'm sure u find a way mate mercs have alot of room behind door
Hi Dave ive got the 2010 E350 W212 and have had an issue with my rear drivers side actuator not working. I am really thankful to Mikey for doing the 2 wire Universal Mod and was thinking i should try this aswell! Any luck with doing yours yet??
@@AsimEden I hate to say it but I haven’t had the opportunity to do this yet, I have plans to take care of this in the next 2 days so hopefully I should be able to let you know.
I was able to order the actuators from Amazon which came as a pair for $10 and I picked up a box of assorted solder-less heatshrink connectors and assorted heatshrink to complete all for under $30 total.
I will say what gave me the biggest issue and something I may be able to ultimately help you with is making sure of the 2 correct wires to connect to. I bought the Emanual online and although it was only $27 and it is basically the exact same program the stealership uses, including work hours and write ups for charges. The problem with this was I expected a PDF workshop manual that turned out to be a very difficult program requiring to download another program to run. It makes it difficult to find what you need unless you’ve been trained to use a factory dealership program.
It took a couple of weeks during the days i had to spend on it, to learn how to navigate and find the diagram I needed and then I had to change my Bios to run the system to print out the needed info.
So if you are considering a manual don’t use Emanual, I would try a different one, but also if i’m successful then I would be happy to let you know if the rears are the same colors or exactly what they are.
I hope to report back in the next few days.
@@davemccready6013 Dave please dont worry dude..... my actuator has been duff for the last 2 years lmao so no worrys you're doing ok! I've had some experience with these manuals and didnt bother in the end, even the Mercedes WIS/ASRA/EPC programs you can get on ebay and the like are really difficult to install. The saving grace here is that Mikey has quite nicely explained very well the wiring code with regards to the door actuator (Grey-Blue and Grey-Black). MB are pretty consistant with their colour coding so should be the same on ours. I noted that you have come across the low melt solder heatshrink, did a job on a VW Sharan fault with regards to the Fuel Temperature Sensor last week. The guy brought it to me after his mechanic had fitted a new sensor but the fault code and money light was still on. I found the fault to be a broken wire in the loom which was telling the ECU that the Voltage was high from the sensor so Engine light was put on. Found the wire break and used this solder heatshrink, worked beautifully!
I've also found the Universal actuator on ebay and have ordered today......depending on the weather this weekend i might give it ago. i will let you know what i find behind the panel.
@@AsimEden I’m in the same boat going on 2 years of locking the drivers door manually from the rear. So Mikey was a god sent idea. Glad to hear about the connectors since this is my first go at using them, not a fan of crimped.
As far as the wiring goes the colors are different on my front drivers door according to the diagram, but should know for sure tomorrow. I’ll update what the colors are and post an FYI.
Jow about rear doors mikey? They are slightly different to this. Any reccomendations?
i havent done them as yet but i am def gonna do it..cuz u guys have been asking alot about them..if u scroll through the comments same principle..there is a sweet spot for them too...just gotta make it work ... ppl have already successfully done using same principle
@MIKEYZVLOGZ they have a different mech for the pop up lock though same wires I'm guessing just have to tie it into the factory pop up the correct way I guess. Thanks heaps for your express fast reply mate 👍
Question my w204 2010 c350 4M is left hand drive (canada) the driver size lock not working (left) and what is that about when I look at the Amazon. They have a kit with 4 actuators 3 of them with 2 wires and one have 5 wires. What is that one with 5 wires for ?
Fits on x164 rear left door, easy install with lots of space. The colours are WHITE and PURPLE with BLACK.
Hi Boet nice video can’t you maybe a video to do the back doors because it doesn’t have the same set up as the front door . Please and thanks again
Great idea
My 2015 ML350 w166 appears to be locked, but rear passenger door can be opened from outside with alarm set. Door opens and alarm sounds. Manual lock goes up and down, but door opens when lock indicator is down. Same fix??? Thank you
I have the same problem with my ML350 2015. Did you fix it? How you did it?
Hi great tutorial and help.. my drivers door wont work..could i use the slave actuator instead of master one? Any advice. .thank you
yes i believe you can all you need to do is connect the right wires to make it work...
Hi mikey. Good news i installed slave actuator drivers door w204..works fantastic! Just cut grey wire with blue stripe.and attached blue wire to it.green to grey with black stripe..thanks again for your great tutorial videos👍👍❤
HI MIKEY. I amm looking for the same actuator for my W204's passenger door, haven't been able to find the same as in your video on Ebay. can you put me in the right direction please? It's an Right Hand drive.
sure I'll sens u a link
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ thank you!
Nice. I'm doing this asap. Thx
Mine has a similar problem. The door pin will not go down when the door is open even if I push down hard but it goes down as normal when the door is closed. Is it the actuator or is something stuck?
actuator
GREAT INFORMATION.. THANK YOU FROM MALAYSIA
ur most welcome buddy
Mikey, you are undoubtedly a genius and I bought the actuators so thanks, but my wires don’t have any grey/black or gray/blue. And I don’t think I can trace back to actuator without removing the metal plate. Any suggestions?
there must be a way to trace the wires out from the actuator .. in ur case I would try get the schematics and see exactly which wires are for the actuator that way u don't have to trace or guess
Hey thank you for your super quick response man. I’m gonna pimp you everywhere. But I did see that I have eight wires going into my actuator. Six of them go into a pin clip and the other two I can’t figure out where they go. I can’t help it I think the other two are going to be my power. Thoughts?
@@terrymurtha2451 that's my best guess ... schematics would definitely help... apart from that I would onl suggest tracing the wire ... another good place to ask is the forums ..maybe someone else has had the same issue and there's an answer already ...
Maybe use a contactless voltage tester to know which wires receive power when locking or unlocking
mike which one do you use for driverside door
@@sbmaynard u can use the same ..dontnworry use slave it's fine
Did you ever do a rear door actuator as this looks more difficult ,?
definitely abit different but I haven't had any issues as yet so haven't done it ..but I def will consider it as alot of u guys have been asking for it so def will do it ...
Will this work on the rear door of a 2008 s550 mercedes
dhonestly i cant say for sure as i have never seen it before in that car or worked on it, sorry i couldnt be more help
Hey man, was wondering if you could help: my w205 coupe door is frameless so it retracts whenever the door opens. The issue is that sometimes when the door is opened the window does not retract, sometimes I have to wait from seconds to minutes until it ‘recognises’ it has been opened before I can lock the car. Without it recognising it has been opened, the car’s dashboard doesn’t switch off and I can’t lock it. Was wondering if you could help?
hey bud thanks for stopping by
. unfortunately I haven't had the opportunity to work on a w205 as yet ... apart from pulling the steering wheel off one ... I haven't done anything else to a 205 .. I'm sorry to say I'm not too sure tbh... I would never pretend to know something I don't.. that's just disingenuous
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ no worries brother 🙏🏻
hopefully in the future I cn work on these cars
Great stuff mate like always 🔥🔥
Can you help me out? Where is the fuse for the driver side back door hatch open button on a GL450 Mercedes? Thank you so much🙏🏽
Hi friend to be honest. I'm not too sure.. if u have a manual I suggest looking through that or use google and search for what u want to know... ud be surprised what u can find on the net. Wish I could be more help but in only really familiar with the w203 and w204 as they are the cars I own... apologies
hey mike cool vid looks simple witch one do i order if im doing driver side on a 2008 mercedez bennz C300
ok so it doesn't matter ..u can still use the slave for driver side just follow the same cable colours... it will still work..I was simply just trying to state the rest are slave compared to the master where the main unit is..but u can still use the slave gor the driver side and it'll work just fine..the principle is to give power to the actuator wen u press lock and unlock which intern sends ppwer to the lock actuator motor which then spins and locks then unlocks the door ..that's it
Excellent video you mentioned a link for the universal lock actuator would love to have it since my has failed so far
links in video description
I could not connect to link to buy from Australia. Is there another link for NZ or Australia. Ty.
il try send u a link
Thanks...good job. Very clear and easy.
thanks and glad to be of service
Love all of your video's mate. Awesome content, editing and explanation. Keep up the great work.
thanks mate really appreciate it
Hey, thanks for your video. I have MB w164 and I’m try do the same like you said, but I have another color of wires. And it’s only close the door but not open. I have white, brown, pink with black line and purple with black line. Maybe you have some ideas what I do wrong. Thank you.
hmm, yeah diff car will have diff colours, u need the schematics to be sure friend sorry i am not familiar with your model...
The ones you need are white and purple with black. It is an easy fit for the actuator, it works for me -x164
Hi Mikey I’m wondering if you would know the two coloured wires to use on a 2009 E250 as they are different to your video
I don't vest way would be get wiring schematics
Thank you for the video!! I have been looking for something like this. I have a ML350 and I'm about to change my passenger door lock, but I don't have the color wires you have. I looked up the schematics and I believe my pink/black and white/black are what I need to cut, but how do i know what to connect the blue to and the green to? what is the difference? I didn't see you explain the difference in your video or i missed it somehow. also, you cut wires to power. do i also need to cut some power wires? or just the two wires only? thanks in advance
as for the blue and green ..u just do a trial and error test run ... im pretty sure polarity doesn't matter .. follow the wires that come right off the actuator ..whichever powers the actuator..you connect to those wires and ur good to go.. the actuator only needs power to spin so when u press lock or unlock it send power to the actuator to spin ..that's it.. but u can always switch em around if it doesn't work
Great thank you 😊 here goes nothing lol
@meltn2me dw it's only 2 cables ur really connecting ..u can't really stuff up... even wen i cut the wrong cable it's color coded so u just reconnect ... and all g..i accidentally cut the rotary tumbler switch cable and it was for the door led..it somehow related to it and luckily i noticed and reconnected it ..now all is well and locks back to normal
Thank you very much. I've done mine, driver's door. The cheapest and easiest 👍👍👍
I'm glad it helped well doneit was the same wasn't it ?
Do you have any idea if this will work on a 1999 E320? W210
nor sure
well, Thank You I got a ML350 2009 right passenger side. can I find the wires with a probe light?
ebay mate just type I'm lock a tuator on ebay and it will show
Hi. Great video. Did I understand correctly that it cannot be fitted to the driver's door? Is it possible to only splice it to the wires to the motor leaving all the others?
ps this motor looks suspiciously like that on the steering lock. How many cheap Chinese motors are there on this "premium " brand?
lol...I know right...for such a beautiful name brand car ..why did they cheap out on certain parts? that's the question isn't it... and as for drivers door... usually u would use a master actuator lock...but I guess in theory all u need to do is provide power to the lock actuator so it can lock and unlock the car lock... so with that said ...it just may be possible to use the exact same for driver side ... cuz all ur really doing is connecting a power circuit so that wenever a lock button is pressed it will power the actuator so it can spin locking and unlocking the lock 🔐
I am in the U.S. For the drivers side being the master actuator, is there a simple fix for this? Only my drivers side does not lock or unlock.
actually it's the same fix u can fix it the exact same way no difference...at first I thought being a master lock actuator it was different to but after some research..the fix is the exact same mate ... no difference ..all that matters is that the pock get power when u pock and unlock the car .and that's what the two wires do
So to clarify whomever references this, I did this on a W212 E350. Only two wires to cut. I cut the green with the black stripe and the green. I connected the green wire of the universal actuator to the green with the black stripe, and the blue of the universal actuator to the green.
Because this is the master, you will notice when testing that it will unlock but not lock when the door is open. This is normal. When it is the driver’s side door, you are not able to lock from the inside nor lock on the key fob with the door open as this is a way for the manufacturer to help the operator from not locking their car without their keys.
I had to cut the foam on the inside of the door card that was removed to make room for the new actuator. It is a big block of foam - I cut it flat.
Great Video. Does it also work on drivers side door? I heard you say that the master door might be different?? Thanks in advance.
I confirmed that driver side is the same
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ thats great. Thanks. Already ordered one. Im sure your video will help. Thanks
Simple hack mate fantastic
thanks mate...I appreciate u
Hey Mikey thanks for the video, for driver's side suppose you buy the master actuator and connect 4 cables? (Instead of 2 wires)
i believe so i havent done it yet but yes i believe so...
Which cables? Tnx
Hi,
What will happen to the error code after installing the OEM (aftermarket universal actuator kit) door locking? Will it go away?
yes it will..u clear it and fix and it won't come back
@@MIKEYZVLOGZThank you so much for sharing the knowledge. Just installed and it works as normal. Indeed you deserve a compliment. 😊
Hello Mikey thanks for the tips mate you helped me also with my ESL 👌
My rear passenger door UK model won’t open even though both outside and inside handles feel really solid so nothing feels out of place or broken.
Do you have any tips for that ? Is the replacement door lock actuator going to fix this issue?
Thanks a lot
does it unlock ? if it does then u may need to check the part that latchs onto the door handle ... its a wire that the door handle pulls on
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ it doesn’t unlock (key fob) When I do pull the handle from the interior the lock pin pops up but the door won’t open. Obviously I am careful doing that as I have seen lots of them braking.
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ is this wire accessible easily or do I have to remove the window and get to the mechanism ? Also are those £15 universal locks suitable for the rear doors ? Obviously sorting out the wire is one thing but while I am doing that I probably would have to change the actuator it didn’t sound that lively..voltage is good and battery in almost brand new
Hey Mikey, great video but why this wouldn't work with the drivers side door? That's my problem drivers side.
it can and will... I was told from another subscriber that it's the same procedure on both doors... driver side is referred to as master and other doors as slave .. if u use the same cables and install the actuator.. all that matters is that wen u lock and unlock it powers the actuator to spin and thereby locking and unlocking ... the actuator is a motor that spins infinite rotations according to when u gibe power to it.. everytime u press lock or unlock. it send power to the actuator and spend the motor in turn it locks and unlocks... hope this makes sense ..so in theory it will work..and I've also been confirmed by others as well
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ Thanks Mikeyz very helpful.
@@martinrivera2950 ur welcome bud
Mine didn't lock or unlock. So I smack the where your door locks to the car and it works. There was a noise I heard when it lock. I just smack that part.
lol good on ya... but eventually it will fail my friend
Im in NZ and tried clicking the link to buy but it comes up page is missing. Is there anywhere else i can buy from, if not NZ maybe Australia. Thank you.
hey mate ..sorry bout that .. they sell out as well ... I'll do a refresh on the links
Ty
thanks Mikey. Very helpful. Does the rear left door have enough room to fit this actuator ?
not sure as i havent done it yet but im sure you can find a spot for it
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ Just finished installing an actuator in one of my rear doors and all is fine. Same colour coded wiring. It was bit more involved because part of the lock cable has to be stripped and then secured.
let me know how to find which lines to connect the device"s lines
? sorry hud not sure what ur asking? do u mean which cables ? colour codes? cuz its all there in the video ... and there's only 2 wires you need to connect to power the actuator so that wen u press lock or unlock it powers it and spins it to lock and unlock ... very straight forward ..are u asking about something else ? how u find then..u open the entire door frame and expose all the wires that are in the door ..then u follow which wires goto your factory lock actuator ..once u have determines which cables are for the actuator u connect them to your universal actuator ..it just needs pos and neg for power that's it ..no other cables needed
So my driver door accuator is gone, im looking for the "Universal Car Central Door Lock Actuator locking Motor Gun - MASTER verison" ? is this correct? thanks!
same pinciple u can use a slave lock actuator doesnt have to be a master ..so long as it gets power wen u lock and unlock it will do the exact same job.. it has been confirmed by other subscribers its the exact same job
Great information thank you from Ireland
thank you welcome to the channel
Great video, thank you very much. Do you know if for the rear door is the same? I don't think so if I remember well. Thank you! :-)
yes very similar just make sure u choose the right spot to mount there's a spot perfect for it too.. ull see when u take door off
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ All the best, thanks again!
@@ticktime6569 cheers matey
Hi there.did you cut all the wires ?it looks to me that you did.
I did ...but do not do that... u only need to cut the 2 wires I mentioned...I don't talk about it as it's not part of it .. do as I say not as I do...😂... it was a small oversight...but quickly realised door lights weren't working so reconnected them and now all is well.. so only cut the 2 wires
Question
. If I used that door actuator the alarm is still work?? Have the same problem on mercedes 2009 c 300 driver side door
yes it will it's just to change the motor that spins the lock the alarm is connected via cars ignition system and ecu and that's what tells alarm to activate and deactivate when u lock unlock
My car is a 2011 ML350. I have more wires than you show and no gray striped wires, Do you know which factory wires I should use on my car? I can see that everything else should mount okay.
no sorry u need to get schematics
Will this work on a Mercedes C320? Ty.
yes it should
Hi Mikey,thank your detailed instruction Videos.Do you have videos about rear doors?
no as I haven't needed to do it.. however I've been told that it is possible and it's the same procedure ... just ensure u check and measure a spot that will house the actuator before going any further
@@MIKEYZVLOGZ hi,both my front doors have stopped locking or unlocking. will the after market actuator work on drivers door too?
@@tomdouglas7466 yes it will now I'm not 100% but I've been told from subs rivers that have done it it's the same procedure ...