I've got one of these and it does everything I need to do, plow snow, or pulling logs out for firewood. Great little tractor and you get used to the controls. No electronics other than starter and lights, an old school tank!
Excellent video. I picked up a dirt cheap 1700 with a 770 loader a few years ago on a chance find and it is my go-to tractor on the farm. Finding info/parts has been difficult as you say, but workable. Was able to rebuild the head last year with only a few weeks of parts location hunting and waiting for shipping. Loader hydraulic rebuild is coming later this year. And eventually I'd like to get a power steering rack for it. Thanks for the 1700 videos!
Thanks. I grew up with this tractor. My grandfather bought it new in 1982. I’m putting hydrostatic power steering in it now. I hope to finish it within a couple weeks and will have a video. I’ve got a lot of tractor work to do and having it down for the last month has been hard.
I've got a 1500; for the most part I'm happy with it. The big thing I'd like is to have the PTO not dependent on the ground drive clutch; step on the clutch and everything stops (it's not a 2-stage "live PTO" clutch either). You're not wrong about the price and availability of parts. I recently had to replace the brake shoes. $285 for a complete set of shoes, and that was the best price I could find! Serious ouch. But several years back, the voltage regulator failed and a local auto parts store found a solid state electronic replacement for less than half the price of an OEM or OEM-similar. And a year ago I had to replace the steering gearbox; found an aftermarket one that appeared to be cast in coarse sand on a beach in a developing nation for a somewhat reasonable price. It seems to be doing OK. If you're lucky, you'll find a part that is common to other brands, and it'll be cheaper than even aftermarket "same part number" parts.
Ths is for watching! The transmission driven PTO hasn’t really been an issue for me. Yeah stuff stops when you clutch and shift, but I don’t do that with an implement under load anyway. The rotary cutter has so much momentum it keeps going anyway. As for steering, I converted to hydrostatic power. Costly, but made it a completely different machine - no looking back and no regrets. Electrical on mine is original except the flasher unit. That’s a NAPA generic that I zip tied in place. Good to know about the voltage regulator if I ever have that issue! Right now my big issue is the 3 point lift cylinder is leaking. Probably the piston seal is shot.
Nice video. I saw several of the mid 1980s 1700s with the FEL and backhoe, break the bell housing such that by 1990 the bell housings were hard to get. I ended up going with a used 1973 Ford 2000 with an FEL. It has worked well all of these years. Be gentle with that bell housing. In general I believe that the older machines are better than the new light duty crap. I'm in a snow zone and a great upgrade was a cab. Good Luck, Rick
My dad had the 1700 the reason your loader only lifts about 800 pounds is the front wheel hubs will break. There was a heavier axel hub made to solve the problem. My memory fades but I believe the 1717 , 1720 etc. axle hubs also fit the smaller 1700 axle. After my dad passed I traded in that tractor for the TC40 D new holland. I like that tractor too but wished I kept my dads.
Early 1700s had weak front axles prone to breaking. Several updates were made midway through the production run (late ‘80), and the axle was strengthened on later 1700s like this one (made in late ‘81). The 1710 loader lifts the same. The 1720 loader lifts about 100lb more. Those numbers are comparable to other tractors at the time. Today’s loaders are just a lot more capable on smaller machines. That actually makes them more dangerous, in my opinion, but is really useful if you know how to make use of that capacity safely. I’m not sure if the front axle hub shaft out of the final reduction gearbox is compatible up the line. The front axle and kingpin configuration was dramatically changed from the 1700 to 1710. The other big change was going to a 3 cylinder engine and adding another transmission option. The sheet metal changes are just cosmetic.
Very thorough, I picked up some things I didn't know before. Would you save these older 1700's are heavier duty and built with more quality materials then today's more modern tractors?
A friend who used to work in the service department at our local New Holland dealer says yes. These are heavy, rugged machines. His father has a 1710, the next generation of this tractor. The issue is if you do break anything major, finding parts for repair can be difficult. I also didn’t thoroughly address loader bucket quick attach - new tractors often have that so you can change loader implements easily too. This bucket is pinned on.
Its a stout machine, but parts are hard to come by (and expensive). If you look, you want to find one that has been run regularly and properly maintained. For what its worth, I know someone who had experience with a 1710 and said it was always a bear to start. The engine was changed with the upgrade from the 1700 to the 1710. I don't have that problem with the 1700. Starts without glow plugs in the summer, and with glow plugs alone without much trouble down to about 20F.
@@ProductiveRecreation thats amazing. and those modeles you mentioned in the reply are also some of my favorite ones too. i like old tractors. but if i can find and get one. that could help out when my other tractor is having starting spells. a farmers best friend is his tractor and the bond between farmer and tractor lasts a lifetime. and thats a fact for sure.
@@GamerFolf My grandfather bought this Ford 1700 new in 1982. Its just a little older than I am. I grew up with it and am still running it on the same property. It's not without issues, but it's still running well. He bought the 1700 to replace a Ford 9N. Much bigger difference between the Ford 9N and the Ford 1700 than the Ford 1700 and a brand new gear drive compact tractor today.
I've gotten a lot of use from my 1210 over the past several years. But is has to go as I just purchased a 1960 Ford 871 SOS Diesel with the Elenco option and front end loader.
The front will come off the ground. My 1700 has no FEL but has front weights. And after 400# the front becomes very light. I put an aftermarket seat that rides fairly well. I bought my tractor new as a 79 demo in 1980. Still runs fine. Uses a water pump about every 10 years or so. Get them rebuilt somewhere- costs $120 or so. New at dealer is $400 or more.
I have a Shibaura SD1840D that looks similar to this. I heard the 1500 is suppose to be equivalent but mine doesn’t have the double gear shifts in the center. The thing that is confusing to me is I have two hydraulic fluid filler caps; one at the gear shift and one behind the seat at the rear lift. I think these fill the same reservoir but not sure. Do you know?
Great video! My father passed away and left me with this exact tractor. Would love to get it all serviced up and start using it again on my property. Any chance you can make a few simple "How-to" and maintenance videos? Right now, my front loader doesn't raise and the rear stabilizer arms leak down from the up position. This is my first tractor and I'd hate to see it wither away.
I’ve made some previously, but not for a basic engine oil change or air filter service. My maintenance season is usually late winter/early spring. My 3 point hitch leaks down too. I think the lift cylinder seal is bad. I might try that myself, but I’m contemplating sending it into the dealer for that. If your rear lift raises, I’m surprised the loader doesn’t. If the machine has been stored outside it could have water in the hydraulic reservoir (transmission!). Changing the hydraulic oil and cleaning the filter is the first step there. I do have a video on that on my channel.
Have you checked the hyd pressure at the valve chest on the loader the pressure may be down it should be near or at the same pressure as the tractor by adjusting the relief valve you can bring the pressure up that may help.
It was in spec not too long ago. I haven’t checked recently but I haven’t noticed any major changes. The 770 loader is rated to lift 700lb at the pin to full height. That’s it, but I bet it does all of that. And that’s on a tractor/loader combination that weighs around 4000lb with rear wheel weights and loaded tires, so it’s stable. The loader capacity is theoretically similar to a subcompact tractor today, but the 1700 with the 770 loader is way more capable than a subcompact. No competition. I just find it’s easy to max out the loader with the capacity it has.
Hey bud. So I’ve got a shibaura sd2200. Which I believe is a ford 1700. Working on restoring it but have been having many issues with hydraulics. I have change cleaned and even taken off the plates to spray brake clean and suck it all out. I get maybe an hour of work out of it and hydraulics begin to shutter and shake quite a bit. I have tried cleaning the hydraulic filter which is located inside the transmission under my right foot. Would you happen to know a place I could buy a new filter of that type? Also having a hard time locating part numbers for the o-rings for the hydraulic suction and return lines. Any idea about those?
If you’re in North America that’s probably a gray market tractor, as I don’t think Shibauras were sold here. If it’s the same (or very similar tractor) to the Ford 1700, try the New Holland website. Look up parts for the 1700. They have exploded views and part numbers for everything. Some things aren’t available, but others are. The machine is picky about hydraulic fluid type. The Ford fluid spec is M2C-134A. Make sure you have one that meets or exceeds that. Otherwise it sounds like water or crud in the system so you are right to go after the filter. The filter is a fine metal screen and meant to be cleaned. Not sure if replacements are available.
Too few hours scares me more than a lot, as that means the machine just sat corroding away inside and out. A Ford 1700 is currently 40+ years old. At 50 hours per year (typical residential/hobby farm use) it would have 2,000 hours on it. Mine has under 1,600 hours on it but I know its whole history because my grandfather bought it new. It worked quite a bit the first 20 years, and then not so much until I took it on. I'm running it 50-100 hours a year. Things to consider: any weeps or seeps of oil? Check around shift boots, hydraulic cylinders, PTO shaft, oil pan. How does it start? (mine starts right up with glow plugs, even in below freezing temps). How does it run? Is it smooth? Does it smoke after it warms up (it shouldn't)? Do you know any of the operational history - for example, is it a lot of stationary PTO running (which is just engine hours), or was the machine driving all those hours (which puts wear and tear on everything else). Check the steering for free play. See if it looks like it has been regularly greased. Anything that indicates good maintenance is a good sign. Just be aware that if it has any issues, parts can be hard to get and expensive. I find engine parts are generally easier to find than the rest of the machine because the Shibaura LE892 engine was also used in the Ford 1000 and Ford 1600, which were predecessors to the 1700 - so there's quite a few of those engines out there. Different engine in the 1710.
I’m not a hydraulics expert in any fashion. The loader is fed from a unit by the relief valve under the seat by the 3 point height lever.You can see some of the plumbing in this area with the loader in my videos about the steering conversion. If you have the operators manual for the tractor, supposedly you can take hydraulic flow off from the 3 point cylinder if you raise the hitch all the way and lock the lever in the notch. Not sure how that would work if you want double acting with return. There was a backhoe available for the 1700. Your best bet may be to see if you can find a parts diagram for that, as it would use rear hydraulics. I’m sure a dealer could help you out, but it may be expensive since kits for this kind of thing aren’t made for these old tractors. Not enough volume to justify it.
The 3-point lift sounds impressive but FEL sounds kinda weak, and seem so that seat could greatly updated with after market seats. My only concern is no diff lock, I wouldn't buy any tractor without it..........
I have the same tractor & was wondering if you would go over the hydraulic pressure relief value located right behind the seat. I believe that's what's it is.
Yes the relief valve is under the seat on the right side (when facing forward), by the position control lever. Should be set at 2133psi; adjustment screw is to the rear. I haven’t tested it or adjusted it, but all is running fine (last checked by a dealer a couple years ago). To check the pressure you remove the plug by the 3 point hitch speed adjustment knob and connect a hydraulic pressure gage and then raise the hitch all the way at rated RPM until the relief operates. Plumbing on mine is slightly modified now as I installed hydrostatic power steering this spring after making this video. I have videos on the steering too.
paid 2000,00 for 2 wd version of yours 20 years ago no loader very basic old machine 5 ft chopper no problem 5 ft finish mower no problem use it to work horse arena and use small box scraper to maintain driveway. use it at least once per week never failed to function or broken down one time. be nice to have new one with climate controlled cab just cant justify the cost also doubt reliability on new stuff.
I’m pretty clear about parts availability (or lack thereof). As for the engine, completely different animal. The 2110 was a brand new model with a new engine at the time. The model LE892 engine in this tractor was used for 9+ years beginning in 1973 in the Ford 1000, 1600 and then 1700. It’s a really simple 2 cylinder diesel and I’m unaware of major issues with it. Mine doesn’t even have any leaks. Different engines from the 00 series in the 10 series across the board.
I've got one of these and it does everything I need to do, plow snow, or pulling logs out for firewood. Great little tractor and you get used to the controls. No electronics other than starter and lights, an old school tank!
Excellent video. I picked up a dirt cheap 1700 with a 770 loader a few years ago on a chance find and it is my go-to tractor on the farm. Finding info/parts has been difficult as you say, but workable. Was able to rebuild the head last year with only a few weeks of parts location hunting and waiting for shipping. Loader hydraulic rebuild is coming later this year. And eventually I'd like to get a power steering rack for it. Thanks for the 1700 videos!
Thanks. I grew up with this tractor. My grandfather bought it new in 1982. I’m putting hydrostatic power steering in it now. I hope to finish it within a couple weeks and will have a video. I’ve got a lot of tractor work to do and having it down for the last month has been hard.
Will you be making a video??? I have the same set up and looking to learn more on the hydraulics.
I've got a 1500; for the most part I'm happy with it. The big thing I'd like is to have the PTO not dependent on the ground drive clutch; step on the clutch and everything stops (it's not a 2-stage "live PTO" clutch either).
You're not wrong about the price and availability of parts. I recently had to replace the brake shoes. $285 for a complete set of shoes, and that was the best price I could find! Serious ouch.
But several years back, the voltage regulator failed and a local auto parts store found a solid state electronic replacement for less than half the price of an OEM or OEM-similar. And a year ago I had to replace the steering gearbox; found an aftermarket one that appeared to be cast in coarse sand on a beach in a developing nation for a somewhat reasonable price. It seems to be doing OK.
If you're lucky, you'll find a part that is common to other brands, and it'll be cheaper than even aftermarket "same part number" parts.
Ths is for watching! The transmission driven PTO hasn’t really been an issue for me. Yeah stuff stops when you clutch and shift, but I don’t do that with an implement under load anyway. The rotary cutter has so much momentum it keeps going anyway. As for steering, I converted to hydrostatic power. Costly, but made it a completely different machine - no looking back and no regrets. Electrical on mine is original except the flasher unit. That’s a NAPA generic that I zip tied in place. Good to know about the voltage regulator if I ever have that issue! Right now my big issue is the 3 point lift cylinder is leaking. Probably the piston seal is shot.
Nice video. I saw several of the mid 1980s 1700s with the FEL and backhoe, break the bell housing such that by 1990 the bell housings were hard to get. I ended up going with a used 1973 Ford 2000 with an FEL. It has worked well all of these years. Be gentle with that bell housing. In general I believe that the older machines are better than the new light duty crap. I'm in a snow zone and a great upgrade was a cab. Good Luck, Rick
My dad had the 1700 the reason your loader only lifts about 800 pounds is the front wheel hubs will break. There was a heavier axel hub made to solve the problem. My memory fades but I believe the 1717 , 1720 etc. axle hubs also fit the smaller 1700 axle. After my dad passed I traded in that tractor for the TC40 D new holland. I like that tractor too but wished I kept my dads.
Early 1700s had weak front axles prone to breaking. Several updates were made midway through the production run (late ‘80), and the axle was strengthened on later 1700s like this one (made in late ‘81). The 1710 loader lifts the same. The 1720 loader lifts about 100lb more. Those numbers are comparable to other tractors at the time. Today’s loaders are just a lot more capable on smaller machines. That actually makes them more dangerous, in my opinion, but is really useful if you know how to make use of that capacity safely. I’m not sure if the front axle hub shaft out of the final reduction gearbox is compatible up the line. The front axle and kingpin configuration was dramatically changed from the 1700 to 1710. The other big change was going to a 3 cylinder engine and adding another transmission option. The sheet metal changes are just cosmetic.
Thank you-- this is most informative!
Really good video. Thank you
Very thorough, I picked up some things I didn't know before. Would you save these older 1700's are heavier duty and built with more quality materials then today's more modern tractors?
A friend who used to work in the service department at our local New Holland dealer says yes. These are heavy, rugged machines. His father has a 1710, the next generation of this tractor. The issue is if you do break anything major, finding parts for repair can be difficult. I also didn’t thoroughly address loader bucket quick attach - new tractors often have that so you can change loader implements easily too. This bucket is pinned on.
im looking to get one of them ford compact tractors. still looking though but hopefully ill find one. they seem really good tractors in my book.
Its a stout machine, but parts are hard to come by (and expensive). If you look, you want to find one that has been run regularly and properly maintained. For what its worth, I know someone who had experience with a 1710 and said it was always a bear to start. The engine was changed with the upgrade from the 1700 to the 1710. I don't have that problem with the 1700. Starts without glow plugs in the summer, and with glow plugs alone without much trouble down to about 20F.
@@ProductiveRecreation thats amazing. and those modeles you mentioned in the reply are also some of my favorite ones too. i like old tractors. but if i can find and get one. that could help out when my other tractor is having starting spells.
a farmers best friend is his tractor and the bond between farmer and tractor lasts a lifetime. and thats a fact for sure.
@@GamerFolf My grandfather bought this Ford 1700 new in 1982. Its just a little older than I am. I grew up with it and am still running it on the same property. It's not without issues, but it's still running well. He bought the 1700 to replace a Ford 9N. Much bigger difference between the Ford 9N and the Ford 1700 than the Ford 1700 and a brand new gear drive compact tractor today.
I've gotten a lot of use from my 1210 over the past several years. But is has to go as I just purchased a 1960 Ford 871 SOS Diesel with the Elenco option and front end loader.
On either side of the PTO speed knob there are pipe plugs, do you know what they are for.?
Does this tractor have draft control?
Mine only has position control, but draft control was an option on the Ford 1700. I'm not sure how common it was for 1700s to be equipped with it.
The front will come off the ground. My 1700 has no FEL but has front weights. And after 400# the front becomes very light. I put an aftermarket seat that rides fairly well. I bought my tractor new as a 79 demo in 1980. Still runs fine. Uses a water pump about every 10 years or so. Get them rebuilt somewhere- costs $120 or so. New at dealer is $400 or more.
I have a Shibaura SD1840D that looks similar to this. I heard the 1500 is suppose to be equivalent but mine doesn’t have the double gear shifts in the center. The thing that is confusing to me is I have two hydraulic fluid filler caps; one at the gear shift and one behind the seat at the rear lift. I think these fill the same reservoir but not sure. Do you know?
Not sure. It’s possible the rear differential is a separate reservoir.
I have a 1600 2 wheel drive and a 1700 w/front wheel assist. They always start and they were very inexpensive compared to anything new.
Great video! My father passed away and left me with this exact tractor. Would love to get it all serviced up and start using it again on my property. Any chance you can make a few simple "How-to" and maintenance videos? Right now, my front loader doesn't raise and the rear stabilizer arms leak down from the up position. This is my first tractor and I'd hate to see it wither away.
I’ve made some previously, but not for a basic engine oil change or air filter service. My maintenance season is usually late winter/early spring. My 3 point hitch leaks down too. I think the lift cylinder seal is bad. I might try that myself, but I’m contemplating sending it into the dealer for that. If your rear lift raises, I’m surprised the loader doesn’t. If the machine has been stored outside it could have water in the hydraulic reservoir (transmission!). Changing the hydraulic oil and cleaning the filter is the first step there. I do have a video on that on my channel.
Thanks for the info. I'll start with changing the hydraulic fluid and cleaning out the filter. It sits outside. Thanks again.
Have you checked the hyd pressure at the valve chest on the loader the pressure may be down it should be near or at the same pressure as the tractor by adjusting the relief valve you can bring the pressure up that may help.
It was in spec not too long ago. I haven’t checked recently but I haven’t noticed any major changes. The 770 loader is rated to lift 700lb at the pin to full height. That’s it, but I bet it does all of that. And that’s on a tractor/loader combination that weighs around 4000lb with rear wheel weights and loaded tires, so it’s stable. The loader capacity is theoretically similar to a subcompact tractor today, but the 1700 with the 770 loader is way more capable than a subcompact. No competition. I just find it’s easy to max out the loader with the capacity it has.
Hey bud. So I’ve got a shibaura sd2200. Which I believe is a ford 1700. Working on restoring it but have been having many issues with hydraulics. I have change cleaned and even taken off the plates to spray brake clean and suck it all out. I get maybe an hour of work out of it and hydraulics begin to shutter and shake quite a bit. I have tried cleaning the hydraulic filter which is located inside the transmission under my right foot. Would you happen to know a place I could buy a new filter of that type? Also having a hard time locating part numbers for the o-rings for the hydraulic suction and return lines. Any idea about those?
If you’re in North America that’s probably a gray market tractor, as I don’t think Shibauras were sold here. If it’s the same (or very similar tractor) to the Ford 1700, try the New Holland website. Look up parts for the 1700. They have exploded views and part numbers for everything. Some things aren’t available, but others are. The machine is picky about hydraulic fluid type. The Ford fluid spec is M2C-134A. Make sure you have one that meets or exceeds that. Otherwise it sounds like water or crud in the system so you are right to go after the filter. The filter is a fine metal screen and meant to be cleaned. Not sure if replacements are available.
Looking to buy one of these units. How many hours is too many hours? as this is the only way to kinda judge engine life. Thanks
Too few hours scares me more than a lot, as that means the machine just sat corroding away inside and out. A Ford 1700 is currently 40+ years old. At 50 hours per year (typical residential/hobby farm use) it would have 2,000 hours on it. Mine has under 1,600 hours on it but I know its whole history because my grandfather bought it new. It worked quite a bit the first 20 years, and then not so much until I took it on. I'm running it 50-100 hours a year. Things to consider: any weeps or seeps of oil? Check around shift boots, hydraulic cylinders, PTO shaft, oil pan. How does it start? (mine starts right up with glow plugs, even in below freezing temps). How does it run? Is it smooth? Does it smoke after it warms up (it shouldn't)? Do you know any of the operational history - for example, is it a lot of stationary PTO running (which is just engine hours), or was the machine driving all those hours (which puts wear and tear on everything else). Check the steering for free play. See if it looks like it has been regularly greased. Anything that indicates good maintenance is a good sign. Just be aware that if it has any issues, parts can be hard to get and expensive. I find engine parts are generally easier to find than the rest of the machine because the Shibaura LE892 engine was also used in the Ford 1000 and Ford 1600, which were predecessors to the 1700 - so there's quite a few of those engines out there. Different engine in the 1710.
Any idea on how to add rear hydraulics.. I don’t have the loader. This has been a great tractor for my uses but looking to expand its capabilities
I’m not a hydraulics expert in any fashion. The loader is fed from a unit by the relief valve under the seat by the 3 point height lever.You can see some of the plumbing in this area with the loader in my videos about the steering conversion. If you have the operators manual for the tractor, supposedly you can take hydraulic flow off from the 3 point cylinder if you raise the hitch all the way and lock the lever in the notch. Not sure how that would work if you want double acting with return. There was a backhoe available for the 1700. Your best bet may be to see if you can find a parts diagram for that, as it would use rear hydraulics. I’m sure a dealer could help you out, but it may be expensive since kits for this kind of thing aren’t made for these old tractors. Not enough volume to justify it.
The 3-point lift sounds impressive but FEL sounds kinda weak, and seem so that seat could greatly updated with after market seats. My only concern is no diff lock, I wouldn't buy any tractor without it..........
It has a diff lock, at the left heel. Works great. I use it regularly. I too wouldn’t be without one.
I have the same tractor & was wondering if you would go over the hydraulic pressure relief value located right behind the seat. I believe that's what's it is.
Yes the relief valve is under the seat on the right side (when facing forward), by the position control lever. Should be set at 2133psi; adjustment screw is to the rear. I haven’t tested it or adjusted it, but all is running fine (last checked by a dealer a couple years ago). To check the pressure you remove the plug by the 3 point hitch speed adjustment knob and connect a hydraulic pressure gage and then raise the hitch all the way at rated RPM until the relief operates. Plumbing on mine is slightly modified now as I installed hydrostatic power steering this spring after making this video. I have videos on the steering too.
paid 2000,00 for 2 wd version of yours 20 years ago no loader very basic old machine 5 ft chopper no problem 5 ft finish mower no problem use it to work horse arena and use small box scraper to maintain driveway. use it at least once per week never failed to function or broken down one time. be nice to have new one with climate controlled cab just cant justify the cost also doubt reliability on new stuff.
Do you still got this and want to sell it please reply me friend
Yes, and no not for sale. It’s the only tractor I’ve got and I need it!
@@ProductiveRecreation ok friend, if you know anyone selling please reply
I wish some day that Americans stopped using Mordor measurements. Otherwise great video! 😊
STAY AWAY! Had a 2110 4x4. Nice size and power but the engine was junk and hard to find parts.
I’m pretty clear about parts availability (or lack thereof). As for the engine, completely different animal. The 2110 was a brand new model with a new engine at the time. The model LE892 engine in this tractor was used for 9+ years beginning in 1973 in the Ford 1000, 1600 and then 1700. It’s a really simple 2 cylinder diesel and I’m unaware of major issues with it. Mine doesn’t even have any leaks. Different engines from the 00 series in the 10 series across the board.