I was taken by the high temps of the Legion Go SSD temp and wanted to take some action in preventing disk wear overtime, so I got those heatsinks to test out, unfortunately its impossible to fit 11mm high heatsink, not even 7mm, otherwise the Aluminum one i got would have the perfect recommendation but still the Low-profile Copper heat sink specially made for the 2242 NVME size can still do its work by dissipating some heat I'm also expecting other copper heatsinks that are 2mm and 4mm and will test them as soon as they arrive and give you all results 👍 2nd Part: th-cam.com/video/bOO2T7wrk14/w-d-xo.html Are you currently using a heatsink for your Legion Go SSD ? let me know Legion GO playlist : th-cam.com/play/PLg8ANjUNzqfN0uUCjfOQmFXCNulJuFIRr.html If you enjoy my content Subscribe & Join the TECHOSAUR Community on Discord here : discord.gg/PXmJY6BP8b. you can seek technical assistance, exchange ideas and experiences, relax, share memes, make video request and most importanly feel at home ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Heatsinks I tried: www.amazon.co.uk/DolDer-Copper-Heatsink-Cover-Shield/dp/B0C9MD3P7K www.amazon.de/DolDer-M-2-SSD-K%C3%BChlk%C3%B6rper/dp/B0BHT29565 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- For reference only, you can find the 2mm, 4mm heatsinks that I'll test next here: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002043321474.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.68d61802XRk7x4
hey, i this still up to date or did you found something better for ssd cooling? Did you compare it with the custom backplate. (those who have this honeycombs and 2280 mod. )
@@50fiddy05 I have the custom back cover ordered, and the newer revision should arrive this week, I'm going to check out how much it helps in cooling SSD and try some compatible heatsinks www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006492565219.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.11.175518026jb09c if you are planning to get this back cover, please buy it from this link to support me, it's affiliated with no extra cost to you.
@Aaanze Unfortunately, the seller on AliExpress is unprofessional. I bought them in November 2023, and they never arrived. So, I ordered them again in February 2024, and they still haven't arrived yet. I'm in touch with the courier to find out what's going on, but they're giving me a hard time. I'll try to get them elsewhere, but I haven't found anyone else that has 2mm and 4mm for a 2242 SSD I'm sorry for the delay
Cheers for the video! If anyone is interested if what configuration I've used to get temps down. Sabrent 2TB SSD 2030 with small plastic extender. Foil over the SSD only (it won't fit with pad and heatsink under it). On top, 1mm pad and copper heatsink , 2030 size and only over the SSD. I've been running Crystal Disk Mark whilst plugged in on 30w mode. The highest temp I can now get after five tests is 71 degrees c. That is down from 81 which was the highest pre heatsink. In game though, looking at far lower temps, around 60 now. Temps are generally fine for gaming, no where near error inducing temps! :D
I installed this heatsink a few weeks ago and based on a picture on Reddit I put the heatsink onto the drive directly and unwrap the metallic film that was originally on the ssd and put it back around the outside of the heatsink. Does this matter?
I don't use such a device. But if you are wondering what the temperature is on my SSD drives in my PC, then I will answer it does not exceed 30 degrees Celsius, but it can also be below 0.
Perhaps the Final Cool Heatsink could be sanded a couple millimeters on the top for it to fit. It would work awesome because it has nice thickness and very secure as it is being attached by screws. I think is around 8mm tall because it's says 11mm but it is also taking in to account the bottom part.
But even a 7mm heatsink didn't fit, with no bottom part u saw I'm getting 4mm to try it , hope it can fit my SSD is really running hot over 100c just installing steam games
@@TECHOSAUR Yes you are right still is pretty tall heatsink, would have been great if being smaller. I am having my Legion Go in 10 days, so I am planning ahead. But same experience with my Rog Ally, change my ssd for a 2tb Silicon Power 2230 and my temperatures went really high. I did the CPPC TEK heatsink mod and my temperatures went down really well, so for sure I will put some kind of heatsink when changing my Legion Go ssd for a 2tb size. Thanks and I will be waiting for your next video of the 4mm heatsink test.
here's the cheapest offer I found on AliExpress: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDydE3H make sure to choose the Color: 42 if you plan to get it, please use this link to support me 🙌 Thanks
Have you heard about thermal pad W/MK? Dont know how much difference between expensive thermal pad with high W/MK use on copper heatsink and stock thermal pad come with the copper heatsink package
Does it depend on SSD? I have Corsair MP600 Core Mini 2TB installed in my Legion Go, and during CrystalMark test max temperature reported was 78 Celsius - this is by running CrystalMark test over and over again for 15 minutes. While gaming (in Monster Hunter World) max temp recorded was 50 Celsius.
Yes, it greatly varies from one model to another, depending on the NAND manufacturer and the maximum speed ratings. Here I tried the one that comes in the Legion Go which is WD SN740 despite that, IMO the airflow for SSD LeGo isn't adequate, there isn't air intake in that area and given how tight the cover closes, I don't think the SSD hot air is being dissipated efficiently to be taken out by the fan, its too far being on the top left we all know that GEN 4 SSDs run too hot, I think this type of layout is good for a GEN 3 rather than 4, especially with ones of over 5000MB/s in READ that's why I'm trying to find at least a heatsink that could dissipate enough heat while still being able to close the back cover, I tried with both 11 and 7mm in height heatsinks and it's not closing, I'm waiting for 4 and 2mm to try soon also being 2242
It's truly horrible. I've ordered them twice already, and they still haven't arrived. Since I made this video, I placed the first order. Then, in February, I placed another one, and they still haven't arrived. I even ordered other things about a week ago from AliExpress, and they did arrive, so it's not the wrong address.
thanks, you just reminded me of it, because it never arrived, I made the order in November and it's still not here, I just asked the vendor to send it again
Well done for trying to discuss the problem of SSD overheating. But your approach will not give a radical/positive result. In the name of mobility and design of this device, the manufacturer sacrificed reliability. If you are ready to modify the device, then I can give some practical tips on how to achieve significant results. Warning: if you do not have experience in this type of activity, do not do anything that I have written for you here, you will lose the warranty and break the device! 1) Consider whether it is advisable to remove the foil from the SSD. Perhaps it has a backing that can interfere with heat dissipation. 2) Peel off and do not glue the ceramic tape onto the SSD. It can conduct heat to the battery, which shortens its service life. 3) Carefully drill several holes on the case in the area of the SSD. Both from the end and from the bottom. More towards the corner. Note to point №3: The larger the diameter of the holes, the better - the lower the resistance to air flow. But you need to maintain balance in choosing the hole diameter and the integrity of the housing structure. Be careful and use common sense. The holes can be protected from dust getting into the inside using the material from which tea bags are sometimes made. I mean not a natural material (polyethylene) or you can use a mesh to protect computer coolers (with the largest possible hole). 4) In order for the holes to work more efficiently, it is necessary to build an air duct inside the device. To allow air flow went from the holes past the SSD to the processor and ended up in the turbocharger. I think double sided tape might work for this. Do not peel off the blocking tape from the top row, otherwise the cover will stick. This material is malleable and cheap. The more efficiently and thoughtfully the air duct is made, the more efficiently it will work. The air pumped through the duct must also pass near the processor area. Identify the remaining hot areas of the device and take care of cooling them in the same way. !!!(Shiny surfaces do not scan well for heating (paint them / apply electrical tape before scanning (black is the best color))) 5) a) partially or completely block the screw holes located in the bottom cover opposite the processor. (part of the air duct structure (adhesive tape)) b) partially block!!! screw holes located in the bottom cover opposite the turbine. This is necessary for the turbine to begin pumping air through the air duct and, accordingly, next to the SSD. The vent holes in front of the turbine should be covered from the middle to the edge. Result: a significant drop in the temperature of the SSD and an increase in the temperature on the processor, a possible increase in noise from the turbine. Maintain a reasonable balance. Warning: if you do not have experience in this type of activity, do not do anything that I have written for you here, you will lose the warranty and break the device! All actions must be performed point by point, one by one, slowly observing the results of the actions you have taken. During these operations/experiments, do not snap the lid of the device (the fasteners will break) Just cover with a lid and tape around the perimeter. P.S.: almost all devices are now made unfinished. This is done purposefully to increase company profits and reduce production costs. You can, of course, take a more radical approach and cut a hole in the device body for a large radiator opposite the SSD, but without air flow to it the cooling will not be sufficient. Contact with this radiator will be unpleasant. That copper radiator that you ordered from China will still be ineffective without airflow. A shiny radiator is bad, painted BLACK is good: +15% cooling due to heat radiation. Do you have any questions? (translated using Google Translate)
Physics course from school. Surfaces painted black improve heat dissipation by 10-15%. Due to its radiation. Look at the color of the cooling systems in high-end laptops. Look carefully where and what is being painted.
Very surprised with the result. It’s actually a great mod! I wasn’t going to do anything internal because I love my legion go but I might have to do this thanks to your tutorial
Actually now I have a 2tb 2230 SSD without the wrap and just A Heat sink and yet it's hitting over 90c Even if you remove the wrap it's not going to do much, there's no airflow going on there, most of the generated heat is building up
@macky10229 currently i have 2230 2tb with extender along with that copper heatsink made for 2230 form factor Putting the 2242 hestsink won't create equal surface cover so its better to apply the one for 2230
Thanks for your feedback, I'll convert it to mono from now on, I was just reading how important it is to convert speech to mono, sorry I didn't know about it before
Great work! These results are very promising! I saw on reddit that in some cases a user even put an extra layer of thermal pad on top of the copper heat sink, before putting the large battery sticker back on. Since the clearance of the copper one is quite sufficient, I might try that as well.
rather than that, I'm going to try next a 4 and 2mm heatsinks, I'm quite certain the 2mm will fit just fine, along with a 1mm thermal pad, we'll see once they arrive, will share all about it here, thanks for tuning in
I was taken by the high temps of the Legion Go SSD temp and wanted to take some action in preventing disk wear overtime, so I got those heatsinks to test out, unfortunately its impossible to fit 11mm high heatsink, not even 7mm, otherwise the Aluminum one i got would have the perfect recommendation
but still the Low-profile Copper heat sink specially made for the 2242 NVME size can still do its work by dissipating some heat
I'm also expecting other copper heatsinks that are 2mm and 4mm and will test them as soon as they arrive and give you all results 👍
2nd Part: th-cam.com/video/bOO2T7wrk14/w-d-xo.html
Are you currently using a heatsink for your Legion Go SSD ? let me know
Legion GO playlist : th-cam.com/play/PLg8ANjUNzqfN0uUCjfOQmFXCNulJuFIRr.html
If you enjoy my content Subscribe & Join the TECHOSAUR Community on Discord here : discord.gg/PXmJY6BP8b.
you can seek technical assistance, exchange ideas and experiences, relax, share memes, make video request and most importanly feel at home
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Heatsinks I tried:
www.amazon.co.uk/DolDer-Copper-Heatsink-Cover-Shield/dp/B0C9MD3P7K
www.amazon.de/DolDer-M-2-SSD-K%C3%BChlk%C3%B6rper/dp/B0BHT29565
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For reference only, you can find the 2mm, 4mm heatsinks that I'll test next here:
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002043321474.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.68d61802XRk7x4
why unscrew everything if you don't remove the foil? you could have put it on without dissasamble it
hey, i this still up to date or did you found something better for ssd cooling? Did you compare it with the custom backplate. (those who have this honeycombs and 2280 mod. )
@@50fiddy05 I have the custom back cover ordered, and the newer revision should arrive this week, I'm going to check out how much it helps in cooling SSD and try some compatible heatsinks
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006492565219.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.11.175518026jb09c
if you are planning to get this back cover, please buy it from this link to support me, it's affiliated with no extra cost to you.
Were you able to see if the 2mm and 4mm fit and do better than the one displayed in your video ?
@Aaanze Unfortunately, the seller on AliExpress is unprofessional. I bought them in November 2023, and they never arrived. So, I ordered them again in February 2024, and they still haven't arrived yet. I'm in touch with the courier to find out what's going on, but they're giving me a hard time. I'll try to get them elsewhere, but I haven't found anyone else that has 2mm and 4mm for a 2242 SSD
I'm sorry for the delay
Cheers for the video! If anyone is interested if what configuration I've used to get temps down. Sabrent 2TB SSD 2030 with small plastic extender. Foil over the SSD only (it won't fit with pad and heatsink under it). On top, 1mm pad and copper heatsink , 2030 size and only over the SSD. I've been running Crystal Disk Mark whilst plugged in on 30w mode. The highest temp I can now get after five tests is 71 degrees c. That is down from 81 which was the highest pre heatsink. In game though, looking at far lower temps, around 60 now. Temps are generally fine for gaming, no where near error inducing temps! :D
I installed this heatsink a few weeks ago and based on a picture on Reddit I put the heatsink onto the drive directly and unwrap the metallic film that was originally on the ssd and put it back around the outside of the heatsink. Does this matter?
I feel like you're supposed to, lol.
I was wondering why he didn't do as you suggest. Apply pad over the wrap look a bit stupid to me.
...Wrap the chicken in foil and put it in the oven... (from the recipe book on how to break your hard)
how have temps been for you since adding the heatsink?
I don't use such a device. But if you are wondering what the temperature is on my SSD drives in my PC, then I will answer it does not exceed 30 degrees Celsius, but it can also be below 0.
Perhaps the Final Cool Heatsink could be sanded a couple millimeters on the top for it to fit. It would work awesome because it has nice thickness and very secure as it is being attached by screws. I think is around 8mm tall because it's says 11mm but it is also taking in to account the bottom part.
But even a 7mm heatsink didn't fit, with no bottom part u saw
I'm getting 4mm to try it , hope it can fit my SSD is really running hot over 100c just installing steam games
@@TECHOSAUR Yes you are right still is pretty tall heatsink, would have been great if being smaller.
I am having my Legion Go in 10 days, so I am planning ahead. But same experience with my Rog Ally, change my ssd for a 2tb Silicon Power 2230 and my temperatures went really high. I did the CPPC TEK heatsink mod and my temperatures went down really well, so for sure I will put some kind of heatsink when changing my Legion Go ssd for a 2tb size.
Thanks and I will be waiting for your next video of the 4mm heatsink test.
Where to get the slim heat sink copper one that fit at beginning? Thanks
here's the cheapest offer I found on AliExpress:
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDydE3H
make sure to choose the Color: 42
if you plan to get it, please use this link to support me 🙌
Thanks
Have you heard about thermal pad W/MK? Dont know how much difference between expensive thermal pad with high W/MK use on copper heatsink and stock thermal pad come with the copper heatsink package
I'll be trying it soon, got some higher end thermal pad with better W/mK and will try them on, thanks for the suggestion
Does it depend on SSD? I have Corsair MP600 Core Mini 2TB installed in my Legion Go, and during CrystalMark test max temperature reported was 78 Celsius - this is by running CrystalMark test over and over again for 15 minutes. While gaming (in Monster Hunter World) max temp recorded was 50 Celsius.
Yes, it greatly varies from one model to another, depending on the NAND manufacturer and the maximum speed ratings.
Here I tried the one that comes in the Legion Go which is WD SN740
despite that, IMO the airflow for SSD LeGo isn't adequate, there isn't air intake in that area and given how tight the cover closes, I don't think the SSD hot air is being dissipated efficiently to be taken out by the fan, its too far being on the top left
we all know that GEN 4 SSDs run too hot, I think this type of layout is good for a GEN 3 rather than 4, especially with ones of over 5000MB/s in READ
that's why I'm trying to find at least a heatsink that could dissipate enough heat while still being able to close the back cover, I tried with both 11 and 7mm in height heatsinks and it's not closing, I'm waiting for 4 and 2mm to try soon
also being 2242
Have you tried the 2mm and 4mm heat sinks yet?
It's truly horrible. I've ordered them twice already, and they still haven't arrived.
Since I made this video, I placed the first order. Then, in February, I placed another one, and they still haven't arrived.
I even ordered other things about a week ago from AliExpress, and they did arrive, so it's not the wrong address.
What is the update on the heatsink bought in aliexpress
thanks, you just reminded me of it, because it never arrived, I made the order in November and it's still not here, I just asked the vendor to send it again
@@TECHOSAUR looking forward to it
Well done for trying to discuss the problem of SSD overheating.
But your approach will not give a radical/positive result.
In the name of mobility and design of this device, the manufacturer sacrificed reliability.
If you are ready to modify the device, then I can give some practical tips on how to achieve significant results.
Warning: if you do not have experience in this type of activity, do not do anything that I have written for you here, you will lose the warranty and break the device!
1) Consider whether it is advisable to remove the foil from the SSD. Perhaps it has a backing that can interfere with heat dissipation.
2) Peel off and do not glue the ceramic tape onto the SSD. It can conduct heat to the battery, which shortens its service life.
3) Carefully drill several holes on the case in the area of the SSD. Both from the end and from the bottom. More towards the corner.
Note to point №3: The larger the diameter of the holes, the better - the lower the resistance to air flow. But you need to maintain balance
in choosing the hole diameter and the integrity of the housing structure.
Be careful and use common sense.
The holes can be protected from dust getting into the inside using the material from which tea bags are sometimes made. I mean
not a natural material (polyethylene) or you can use a mesh to protect computer coolers (with the largest possible hole).
4) In order for the holes to work more efficiently, it is necessary to build an air duct inside the device. To allow air flow
went from the holes past the SSD to the processor and ended up in the turbocharger.
I think double sided tape might work for this. Do not peel off the blocking tape from the top row, otherwise the cover will stick.
This material is malleable and cheap.
The more efficiently and thoughtfully the air duct is made, the more efficiently it will work.
The air pumped through the duct must also pass near the processor area.
Identify the remaining hot areas of the device and take care of cooling them in the same way.
!!!(Shiny surfaces do not scan well for heating (paint them / apply electrical tape before scanning (black is the best color)))
5) a) partially or completely block the screw holes located in the bottom cover opposite the processor. (part of the air duct structure (adhesive tape))
b) partially block!!! screw holes located in the bottom cover opposite the turbine. This is necessary for the turbine to begin pumping air through the air duct and, accordingly, next to the SSD.
The vent holes in front of the turbine should be covered from the middle to the edge.
Result: a significant drop in the temperature of the SSD and an increase in the temperature on the processor, a possible increase in noise from the turbine. Maintain a reasonable balance.
Warning: if you do not have experience in this type of activity, do not do anything that I have written for you here, you will lose the warranty and break the device!
All actions must be performed point by point, one by one, slowly observing the results of the actions you have taken.
During these operations/experiments, do not snap the lid of the device (the fasteners will break)
Just cover with a lid and tape around the perimeter.
P.S.: almost all devices are now made unfinished. This is done purposefully to increase company profits and reduce production costs.
You can, of course, take a more radical approach and cut a hole in the device body for a large radiator opposite the SSD, but without air flow to it the cooling will not be sufficient.
Contact with this radiator will be unpleasant. That copper radiator that you ordered from China will still be ineffective without airflow.
A shiny radiator is bad, painted BLACK is good: +15% cooling due to heat radiation.
Do you have any questions? (translated using Google Translate)
why should you paint radiators? what?
Physics course from school. Surfaces painted black improve heat dissipation by 10-15%. Due to its radiation. Look at the color of the cooling systems in high-end laptops. Look carefully where and what is being painted.
Put gloves on your hands. It's not pleasant to look at this.
Very surprised with the result. It’s actually a great mod! I wasn’t going to do anything internal because I love my legion go but I might have to do this thanks to your tutorial
I think its much better to remove the thermal wrap if you gonna use the thermal pad for better heat transfer.. Correct me if im wrong
Actually now I have a 2tb 2230 SSD without the wrap and just A Heat sink and yet it's hitting over 90c
Even if you remove the wrap it's not going to do much, there's no airflow going on there, most of the generated heat is building up
@@TECHOSAUR Im going to use a 2230 with extender PCB should i get the copper shield for 2242 or just for 2230 instead?
@macky10229 currently i have 2230 2tb with extender along with that copper heatsink made for 2230 form factor
Putting the 2242 hestsink won't create equal surface cover so its better to apply the one for 2230
I'm here because I'm looking for 2242 heat sinks for my laptop. But god damn your videos are so thorough. You deserve more subs!
Thanks 👍
Amazing video ❤❤
Thanks 😊
More to come for the legion go this month 🙌
Please convert audio to mono before encoding the videos.
Thanks for your feedback, I'll convert it to mono from now on, I was just reading how important it is to convert speech to mono, sorry I didn't know about it before
Great work! These results are very promising! I saw on reddit that in some cases a user even put an extra layer of thermal pad on top of the copper heat sink, before putting the large battery sticker back on. Since the clearance of the copper one is quite sufficient, I might try that as well.
rather than that, I'm going to try next a 4 and 2mm heatsinks, I'm quite certain the 2mm will fit just fine, along with a 1mm thermal pad, we'll see once they arrive, will share all about it here, thanks for tuning in
@@TECHOSAUR Did you manage to test with different heatsinks, would love to know if you got even better results. Thanks for your videos, cheers !