Thank you so much for this explanation. I'm going on a trip and this was frustrating me. Fortunately, my seller included one of these with my 5D M3. Thank you!
Just got this one for my bird photography for the times where I am sitting in my hide. I do have a technical question: When not using the device, does it constantly drain battery, since it seems to show the timer when not in use?
Thanks for the detailed explanation!! Very helpful. When i connect it with my R5, it doesnt trigger any photos! I bought a used piece and can see remote controller switches ON and shows all data on screen but it doesnt seem to be talking to my camer? My question i guess is - is there any settings in my R5 i have to do to allow have this remote work?
There aren't any settings on the R5 that disable the remote release terminal. In fact, it's hard wired in parallel with the shutter release on the camera internally. As far as the camera can tell, pressing the shutter button on the remote release or the camera are the same. Also the way it works is exceptionally simple. There are 3 pins in the N3 connector. One is ground, the other two correspond to the shutter half press state and shutter full press state. When you press the shutter button on the remote (or the timer's program calls for the shutter to be activated) the half or full press state is simply connected to the ground wire. As for trouble shooting, the first place to start is to see if the shutter button on the remote release works. This will function with or without a battery in the release. If this does work, then it's possible that there's a problem with the electronics in the timer part of the release. Hope that helps.
Mine did that too at first. Then I discovered the problem! The auto focus needs a target to release the shutter. Of course the easy cure is to go to manual focus. There is a setting to release the shutter without a lens, but no release without focus other than manual focus. Remote shutter worked all the time in manual mode. Perhaps a good reason to use manual.
This is a quality product. I bought one decades ago and it worked great. It did bug me that it cost over $200 as I recall?.....for features that could have been easily coded into my camera (5d M III ). I lost it and decided to replace it with a knockoff for $30. This worked just the same EXCEPT the connector did not "click" into the port and within a few months the connection was getting so loose it would literally fall off the connector if the camera was vertical. I had to bite the bullet and repurchase the canon one which I still have to this day ( as well as the original one I ended up finding) I swear I have never replaced the battery in either but I could be wrong about that, they last for years though.
I was planning on using this to shot the up coming annular eclipse. I have a tracking mount. My question is which way? Should I lock camera on tracking mount and shoot intervals? Will the view finder or screen be active all the time to check tracking and centering of sun in the shot? Or plan B Lock camera on tripod. Take one day light shot to capture fore ground. Then put solar filter on to capture sequence of sun crossing the sky. Will use PhotoPills to figure composition zone. Totality will be 4 min. So do I set a longer interval until then and then manual shoot some extra frames. Will the interval resume if I have number of frames at 00? Any tips appreciated. I really like the NISI glass filter over the foil Thousand Oaks filter.
Can't comment on the artistic side, I've never had the opportunity to shoot a solar eclipse. As for the technical side: For plan a, no, the viewfinder and screen will go black as soon as the next frame starts. So you won't be able to check once you start rolling without stopping the sequence. As for plan b... If you set the frames to 0, and just use the interval timer, the TC-80N3 will shoot indefinitely until you stop it manually. Just make sure the int timer is set to longer than your actual exposure time, and you should be good.
@@PointsInFocus ah…sounds like I’ll be in the dark between shots on interval. Solar shots with filter are running about 250-500th if a second. Thanks for the quick reply! Love your reviews. Keep it up. This Canon timer is the easiest to use in a complex event like an eclipse where seconds matter.
I tried 5 minute intervals at 10 frames. After the first shot the screen would darken after a minute. Then it would start up one minute before the next interval shot. Good news was the refresh at one minute before the shot gave me a full minute to adjust tracking if slipping off. Also, a half press of the shutter button reawakens the camera so at any time I could teak the tracking or focus. Meanwhile the interval counter continues. Loving this for solar photography!
That would work too. The behavior of the TC-80N3 is complicated to say the least, and in many case you have to play with it to dial it in to just what you want.
Good explanation of the features. I have ordered one for my R5 (and 14-35). A part 2 video with step by step guides might be helpful for people to actually see it in action. Maybe apply to other more tech videos you do?? BTW Canon support were helpful with my multiple exposure issue with the 14-35. They suggested I buy the 15-35!
Doing a step by step guide video for the TC-80N3 actually doesn't sound like that bad of an idea. I'm definitely looking at doing some shorter practical guide versions of the longer videos, in the near future, and this would definitely work for that. As for the multiple exposures with the 14-35 versus the 15-35. That ended up being the deciding factor on why I ended up with a 15-35. It appears that the R5 is blocked from doing multiple exposures with lenses that require mandatory distortion correction, and the 14-35 is one of those lenses. The R3 can do it, but it does the multiple exposure work in JPEG not raw. So you end up with either being able to do multiple exposures, but you can't get a raw file out of it, or not being able to do multiple exposures with some lenses.
You didn't mention that it works as a basic shutter release with out the need of a battery. Also if your not going to be using it as an inervalometer for longer periods of time I'd suggest flipping the battery over, keeps the battery safe and always there when you need it.
You're right, I did forget to mention that it works as a basic shutter release without a battery. Personally, I've never seen a point to disabling the battery. I've had mine for close to 15 years and I've only replaced the battery once or twice at most. In fact, I've had mine long enough that the contacts/wipers in the rotary encoder have oxidized enough that they don't cont on every click anymore.
Will watch to try and figure out if I need to put AF back on the shutter button and save a custom setting, or if I can remain fully BBF. Will be using my TC 80N3 together with a Canon 1DX Mark III. Perfect timing of the video - just when I need to hone my skills. 👍
That's correct. The remote will "half press" the shutter release to wake the camera up, but in my experience, it's not a reliable way to get the camera to refocus and more likely will mess up focus. My recommendation when using the TC-80N3 is either use back button focusing, so the half press does nothing, or switch the lens to manual focus.
@@PointsInFocus Perfect! As long as I know how it works, then I can make it work with what I have (or, really, with what I have to configured it to do). BBF is what I need for BIF (Birds In Flight), but for an attached TC-80N3 I need to tweak it a bit to do what I expect with that hanging on the side. I have all the fuzzy shots anyone can ever need if they have a similar setup...
One disadvantage to these remotes is that when doing star trails the proper way , which involves taking hundreds of sequential 30-second images , then combining them into one image in photoshop...... the one-second delay between shots is twice as long as just setting your camera to 30 seconds and continuos and using a remote to start/lock the shutter. This gives you 1/2 second gaps. These gaps do show up if you look closely at a large image.
I wouldn't call blending lots of 30s exposures the "proper" way. It's a way, it works, and it's necessary in some instances. But it also has limitations too. As with most things in photography, there's really no one right answer, some ways work better than others in some situations. Either way, lots of images in continuous or one long image, you still use the long exposure timer on the TC-80N3. That said, even with continuous drive, where there's way less than a half second between images, in my experience you still end up with gaps when you go about blending depending on where the camera is pointed and the size of the resulting print. Personally, I prefer a single long exposure, if I can do it, as it yields perfectly gap-less trails.
@@PointsInFocus Having one single 3 hr long exposure is problematic, let alone if ANYTHING goes wrong you have lost the entire shot and 3 hrs of your life. Doing it in 30 sec bites and if something like a light flashes your lens or something you only lose one of 600 frames. The final image is perfectly salvageable.
I didn't say that one long exposure was problem free, or better for that matter. I said that neither is the proper way. Know how to do both, and use what works for the situation and you.
There is a battery warning mode to give you a heads up when it’s time to change. If battery is ok…no icon shows. When it’s low and needs changing a 🪫icon blinks. Manual says battery life is 3 years. I’ll be using a fresh battery on every solar eclipse for sure…no excuses.
Thank you so much for this explanation.
I'm going on a trip and this was frustrating me.
Fortunately, my seller included one of these with my 5D M3.
Thank you!
this channel is soooo underrated. thank you so much.
Very good video, I reckon I have to watch at least 10 times to get the gauge of the timer
Just got one today. Can't wait to use it, and this video was extremely helpful!
Excellent review! I am looking to buy this, and your video is the best out there!
Just got this one for my bird photography for the times where I am sitting in my hide. I do have a technical question: When not using the device, does it constantly drain battery, since it seems to show the timer when not in use?
Yes, but the battery drain is negligible. I've replaced the battery in mine 1 or 2 times in the >10 years I've had it.
@@PointsInFocus Thank you!
thank you, i have two of them and haven't used them in some time. You got completely up to speed in 11 minutes
Thanks for the detailed explanation!! Very helpful.
When i connect it with my R5, it doesnt trigger any photos! I bought a used piece and can see remote controller switches ON and shows all data on screen but it doesnt seem to be talking to my camer? My question i guess is - is there any settings in my R5 i have to do to allow have this remote work?
There aren't any settings on the R5 that disable the remote release terminal. In fact, it's hard wired in parallel with the shutter release on the camera internally. As far as the camera can tell, pressing the shutter button on the remote release or the camera are the same.
Also the way it works is exceptionally simple. There are 3 pins in the N3 connector. One is ground, the other two correspond to the shutter half press state and shutter full press state. When you press the shutter button on the remote (or the timer's program calls for the shutter to be activated) the half or full press state is simply connected to the ground wire.
As for trouble shooting, the first place to start is to see if the shutter button on the remote release works. This will function with or without a battery in the release. If this does work, then it's possible that there's a problem with the electronics in the timer part of the release.
Hope that helps.
@@PointsInFocus thank you so much for your prompt reply! May be a hardware issue with the N3 port!! You rock!
@@PointsInFocus thats really knowledgeable and helpful. 🙏🏼
Mine did that too at first. Then I discovered the problem! The auto focus needs a target to release the shutter. Of course the easy cure is to go to manual focus. There is a setting to release the shutter without a lens, but no release without focus other than manual focus. Remote shutter worked all the time in manual mode. Perhaps a good reason to use manual.
I need to get the adaptor for my Canon EOS RP, does anyone know if there is a non canon version. Mad money for the canon version!!
Great video! I got mine used for 45 bucks. I just received it two days ago. Glad I found your video
Great video, really well explained 👌🤙
This is a quality product. I bought one decades ago and it worked great. It did bug me that it cost over $200 as I recall?.....for features that could have been easily coded into my camera (5d M III ). I lost it and decided to replace it with a knockoff for $30. This worked just the same EXCEPT the connector did not "click" into the port and within a few months the connection was getting so loose it would literally fall off the connector if the camera was vertical. I had to bite the bullet and repurchase the canon one which I still have to this day ( as well as the original one I ended up finding) I swear I have never replaced the battery in either but I could be wrong about that, they last for years though.
I was planning on using this to shot the up coming annular eclipse. I have a tracking mount. My question is which way? Should I lock camera on tracking mount and shoot intervals? Will the view finder or screen be active all the time to check tracking and centering of sun in the shot?
Or plan B Lock camera on tripod. Take one day light shot to capture fore ground. Then put solar filter on to capture sequence of sun crossing the sky. Will use PhotoPills to figure composition zone. Totality will be 4 min. So do I set a longer interval until then and then manual shoot some extra frames. Will the interval resume if I have number of frames at 00? Any tips appreciated. I really like the NISI glass filter over the foil Thousand Oaks filter.
Can't comment on the artistic side, I've never had the opportunity to shoot a solar eclipse.
As for the technical side:
For plan a, no, the viewfinder and screen will go black as soon as the next frame starts. So you won't be able to check once you start rolling without stopping the sequence.
As for plan b... If you set the frames to 0, and just use the interval timer, the TC-80N3 will shoot indefinitely until you stop it manually. Just make sure the int timer is set to longer than your actual exposure time, and you should be good.
@@PointsInFocus ah…sounds like I’ll be in the dark between shots on interval. Solar shots with filter are running about 250-500th if a second. Thanks for the quick reply! Love your reviews. Keep it up. This Canon timer is the easiest to use in a complex event like an eclipse where seconds matter.
I tried 5 minute intervals at 10 frames. After the first shot the screen would darken after a minute. Then it would start up one minute before the next interval shot. Good news was the refresh at one minute before the shot gave me a full minute to adjust tracking if slipping off. Also, a half press of the shutter button reawakens the camera so at any time I could teak the tracking or focus. Meanwhile the interval counter continues. Loving this for solar photography!
That would work too. The behavior of the TC-80N3 is complicated to say the least, and in many case you have to play with it to dial it in to just what you want.
This is a good review and explanation.
Good explanation of the features. I have ordered one for my R5 (and 14-35). A part 2 video with step by step guides might be helpful for people to actually see it in action. Maybe apply to other more tech videos you do?? BTW Canon support were helpful with my multiple exposure issue with the 14-35. They suggested I buy the 15-35!
Doing a step by step guide video for the TC-80N3 actually doesn't sound like that bad of an idea. I'm definitely looking at doing some shorter practical guide versions of the longer videos, in the near future, and this would definitely work for that.
As for the multiple exposures with the 14-35 versus the 15-35. That ended up being the deciding factor on why I ended up with a 15-35. It appears that the R5 is blocked from doing multiple exposures with lenses that require mandatory distortion correction, and the 14-35 is one of those lenses. The R3 can do it, but it does the multiple exposure work in JPEG not raw. So you end up with either being able to do multiple exposures, but you can't get a raw file out of it, or not being able to do multiple exposures with some lenses.
You didn't mention that it works as a basic shutter release with out the need of a battery. Also if your not going to be using it as an inervalometer for longer periods of time I'd suggest flipping the battery over, keeps the battery safe and always there when you need it.
You're right, I did forget to mention that it works as a basic shutter release without a battery.
Personally, I've never seen a point to disabling the battery. I've had mine for close to 15 years and I've only replaced the battery once or twice at most. In fact, I've had mine long enough that the contacts/wipers in the rotary encoder have oxidized enough that they don't cont on every click anymore.
Will watch to try and figure out if I need to put AF back on the shutter button and save a custom setting, or if I can remain fully BBF. Will be using my TC 80N3 together with a Canon 1DX Mark III.
Perfect timing of the video - just when I need to hone my skills. 👍
Sounds like the remote just will take over the shutter button. So if no focusing on the shutter button, then no focus via the remote on half press.
That's correct. The remote will "half press" the shutter release to wake the camera up, but in my experience, it's not a reliable way to get the camera to refocus and more likely will mess up focus. My recommendation when using the TC-80N3 is either use back button focusing, so the half press does nothing, or switch the lens to manual focus.
@@PointsInFocus Perfect! As long as I know how it works, then I can make it work with what I have (or, really, with what I have to configured it to do).
BBF is what I need for BIF (Birds In Flight), but for an attached TC-80N3 I need to tweak it a bit to do what I expect with that hanging on the side.
I have all the fuzzy shots anyone can ever need if they have a similar setup...
Hmmm. I just bought the RS60 E3. Maybe I should have sprung for this.
One disadvantage to these remotes is that when doing star trails the proper way , which involves taking hundreds of sequential 30-second images , then combining them into one image in photoshop...... the one-second delay between shots is twice as long as just setting your camera to 30 seconds and continuos and using a remote to start/lock the shutter. This gives you 1/2 second gaps. These gaps do show up if you look closely at a large image.
I wouldn't call blending lots of 30s exposures the "proper" way. It's a way, it works, and it's necessary in some instances. But it also has limitations too. As with most things in photography, there's really no one right answer, some ways work better than others in some situations.
Either way, lots of images in continuous or one long image, you still use the long exposure timer on the TC-80N3.
That said, even with continuous drive, where there's way less than a half second between images, in my experience you still end up with gaps when you go about blending depending on where the camera is pointed and the size of the resulting print.
Personally, I prefer a single long exposure, if I can do it, as it yields perfectly gap-less trails.
@@PointsInFocus Having one single 3 hr long exposure is problematic, let alone if ANYTHING goes wrong you have lost the entire shot and 3 hrs of your life. Doing it in 30 sec bites and if something like a light flashes your lens or something you only lose one of 600 frames. The final image is perfectly salvageable.
I didn't say that one long exposure was problem free, or better for that matter. I said that neither is the proper way. Know how to do both, and use what works for the situation and you.
Watch out that the battery doesn't die during an hours-long 'Bulb' exposure.
There is a battery warning mode to give you a heads up when it’s time to change. If battery is ok…no icon shows. When it’s low and needs changing a 🪫icon blinks. Manual says battery life is 3 years. I’ll be using a fresh battery on every solar eclipse for sure…no excuses.
just bought one on ebay for 50 dollars. one third the new price...