วีดีโอ

The camera should update GPS data regularly (not sure if it's every photo, but every minute or so), if you have the Canon app running on your phone (in the background should work as well, as long as background app refresh is enabled for it). That said, I haven't used the GPS feature with the current Canon app yet, so it's always possible that there's a bug that's breaking things too.

Yes, the magnification level is saved when you exit the magnifier mode. And yes, the magnification stays active when you switch displays and come back.

@@PointsInFocus Thanks. From my tests of the Canon R5 the "last used magnification" is not memorized. E.g Magnifcation x16 Take the shot Magnifcation will NOT be at the default now not at x16 Infuriating.

Wait, are you talking about photo or video mode? This video is specifically on the EOS R5C and magnification in video mode. In video mode, the R5C saves the magnification level as long as you don't power cycle the camera. You would have to set the magnification at the start of any session though. In photo mode the camera behaves the same as the R5; magnification is not a "separate mode" and therefore the level isn't saved. However, you can set the default magnification of the magnify button in the menus, it's also not locked (nor can it be) to a specific display either.

@@PointsInFocus Thanks for the clarification. I thought the camera shared the same behavior regarding Magnification both in photo and video.

No. The R5C is a bit of a nightmare in that sense. When you flip the camera into video mode, it boots into Canon's Cinema EOS OS, and operates like the rest of Canon's Cinema EOS Caemras. When you flip the power switch into photo mode, it reboots the camera into Canon's EOS OS, the same OS that is used on the rest of the EOS R series including the R5. The two OSes often do similar things very differently. Edit to add: Perhaps one of my failings in these R5C videos has been not to be extremely clear about that.

I don't have an R8, so I can't say for sure. That said, I wouldn't expect that configuration to work.

That (the lack of a clear affiliate link) is partly due to assuming that people understand that you can click any of the Amazon links and buy anything (not just the linked product) and that translates to a comission for the person that created the link. As a result, I never bothered to just have a straight link to Amazon where I probably should have.

@@PointsInFocus oh so you are saying that your links are affiliate links? Yeah I would mention it in the videos. I had thought because I never heard you mention it that you didn't have them.

Er, I do... It's in the outro "...or support us directly by hitting that thanks button or buying yourself something you've always wanted from one of the affiliate links in the description below."

@@PointsInFocus next time I make a purchase I will use the link. I'm sorry about that My friend. It is also a good idea to call to action the affiliate links a few times throughout the video.

No worries. Thanks for the support. As for repeating the call to action more. While I know it hurts my bottom line not to (and not to have mid roll ads every 3 minutes, and to take sponsorships to promote random garbage), I want my videos to focus on the content and getting people to give me money. I know, not the smartest business move, but in the end I have to sleep at night, and that means doing what's right for me not necessarily what's most profitable.

I try to make it a point to not really focus on or talk about other creators, and certainly not try to capitalize on them or their names. However, at the same time I think credit should be given where it's due. And while Mr. McKinnon certainly wasn't not the first person to have thought up the rig, I learned it from his video, so... To be honest, I rather expect this to perform rather poorly from a popularity/metrics point of view. That said, I'm also always surprised by what videos do well and what flop, so I don't really worry about that, and focus more on just delivering whatever value I think I can where I can.

@@PointsInFocus yeah unfortunately for me my most popular video was not a tech video... 😂 I have decided to focus more on bringing value and helping the most people with my content. I can't say it's been monetarily successful but I have really been enjoying my life much more. Putting a positive spin on everything and pushing myself to be better everyday. I saw a video of another creator making fun of Peter McKinnon but very tongue in cheek. So I need a response video but I just wanted to get it off my chest. I ended up buying a Canon R5C last year from years of watching Peter McKinnon. I told Cannon they really should be paying him more lol.

Unfortunately, no. When the shutter is set to the 2 or 10 second timer modes, it will focus when you first press the shutter release to start the timer. That said, if you use a remote release to trigger the 2s timer, the camera will focus when you hit the button on the remote release. On the R6, you can use the RC-6 IR remote, the BR-E1 Bluetooth remote, or Canon's app on a smart phone. Not that that probably helps if you're holding a fish. If you were thinking about the interval timer, then yes, that will refocus about 4 seconds before releasing the shutter. But I'm not sure if that would do what you're looking for.

@@PointsInFocus yes, I want to use the interval timer to take say 20 pictures at roughly 5 second intevals.. Most likely using the flash as most of the time it in complete darkness..

You might be able to do that with a TC-80N3 (or 3rd party equivalent) doing the intervals, but you can't do it with the built in interval timer. With an external timer: you'd set your camera to one of the continuous drive modes (e.g. continuous slow), then on the TC-80N3 you'd set the interval time for 5 seconds, and the long exposure time for 1 second. Then the TC-80N3 would basically hold the shutter release down for a second every 5 seconds (it might be 4, I don't remember off hand if you have to add a second to the int time for this case) and the camera would shoot however many frames it shoots at that continuous frame rate in the second. If you have servo AF set and the shutter release half press is set to focus and meter, then it should focus continuously.

Much appreciated. I'm trying to work in some more stuff on setup and gear that I use and how use it just as a change of pace to the regular camera tip stuff. So hopefully you'll find that kind of stuff useful in the future.

> You assume the in-memory chunks left over are the size of the file, but that depends on how the filesystem is formatted. It's one of the options Windows asks you to determine the chunk size. So at worst you'd be filling 1 byte of that chunk, at most you lose a chunk. Context… We’re talking about cameras and images here, not arbitrary data on an arbitrary SSD. You’re not going to have a 1 byte file on a camera. The point of the example is to illustrate how fragmentation occurs when deleting a file. There’s no benefit to adding needless complexity by introducing the idea that well several files could be written in the freed space, and then at the nth file we finally get a fragment. Also, changing the cluster size is largely about balancing sequential write performance (big clusters have big sequential LBA ranges which makes them big sequential IOs) with wasted space for files smaller than the cluster size. FWIW, exFAT was designed to a large degree with media storage in mind. Hence the relatively large default cluster sizes (128KB - 1MB for cars in the 32GB to 4TB range). 128 KB large enough to be efficient when writing, while not being so large that when paired with 3-50MB images the wasted space is significant. With large cards 1TB+, you’re most likely talking about video, and with multi-GB files being expected in that case, the 512K-1M cluster size still really isn’t a problem. > Also the fact that it's flash storage and not hard disk, it's really not a problem to retrieve/write the data. It’s not really a problem to read/write data to a hard disk either… What I think you’re trying to argue here is that there’s no performance penalty for small and random I/O on flash. Or at least that it “doesn’t matter” because the penalty is much lower. The reality is there still is a performance penalty for small and random I/Os on flash media. You can see this in any benchmark for flash media, though not that many people benchmark SD and CFE cards. I have, for a 95MB/s 128GB UHS-1 SanDisk card, sequential 1MB writes can completely saturate the interface at 95MB/s. 1MB random writes will reduce throughput to somewhere around 50-70MB/s depending on the platform and card’s trim state. Even doing semi-sequential writes (16- 1M blocks before a new random address) reduces the throughput by more than 10%. Is that good enough? Probably, but I said as much in the video. You’re not likely to have issues with good flash that’s much faster than what you actually need. However, highly fragmented flash that’s only marginally faster than the minimum requirements certainly could have problems. > Thirdly, you assume flash storage works by writing in contiguous chunks, but that's really not how it works at all. Harddrives work like that, but not flash storage. First, no, I’m not assuming anything about how the internals of the flash work. I don’t care, nor do I have to. It’s already been empirically shown that random and semi-random writes are slower than contiguous ones. The details beyond that aren't really relevant, and don't do anything to explain things more clearly. Second, you’re assuming a lot about what and how I’m approaching the discussion here. In the video I’m talking generally at the file system level, as I think it’s a good compromise between not having overwhelming complexity while still describing the potential problems clearly. I’m well aware of what’s going on at the lower levels, but I don’t think adding that in to the discussion adds any value beyond making it even more confusing.

No. Protected images are only protected from erasure on the camera. They can be deleted on a computer, and will be deleted if you format the card (either on a computer or on the camera).

There surely is a video in which he explains how he knows all this 😉

The answer to that, at least in the case of this video is that I have a degree in computer engineering, and was involved in an aborted attempt at writing a FAT32 implementation as part of my senior design project. So I've kind of gotten deeper into at least some of what I covered in this video in a way that I don't expect many people will have.

@PointsInFocus ... And is also very interesting to us! Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍🤓👍

There is a 28-70/2L, I have one. It's over 3 pounds, the reality is that you can't have an f/2 aperture in this kind of zoom range and also have a small light lens. It's also not really ideal for video either, it breathes too much, and Canon doesn't have a digital breathing correction profile for it either. I almost ordered a 24-105/2.8L last December when they were announced, and as much as I'd like one, I ended up deciding against it. I still want one, but I try not to collect lenses for the sake of collecting lenses, I needed a well defined use case for it, and I couldn't quite come up with one.

@@PointsInFocus Yes it also doesn't have IS in the 28 to 70. Being a hybrid shooter it makes a bit of a difference for me. I definitely have my eyes on that one. Originally I chose the 24 to 70 2.8 for my all around. The only reason I needed another all-around was my second camera body. The C70 is a Super 35 sensor so I really needed a wider lens. Definitely prefer the longer range of the 105. I definitely really think Canon is kicking butt right now. I really would love to focus more on the camera gear reviews. Problem is I see channels like yours and how meticulously you cover the details. I know I would fall short and you can tell that just by looking at our subscriber numbers. You started after me and you've already nearly doubled me. That is quite an accomplishment and I knew that information would be helpful for others. You have helped me so so much! Thank you so much for everything you do.

Yes, I am planning on updating this for the R5 Mark II. Actually I'm expecting there will be a lot more content on the R5-2's networking capabilities. As for your problem with EOS Uitility, you need version 3.18.11. It's listed in the software and drivers section of the R5-2's support page (this is a link to the page from Canon USA: www.usa.canon.com/support/p/eos-r5-mark-ii). I had an older version on my MBP and it would just quit/crash when I tried to connect to it, updating to 3.18.11 and it seems to work. Once you have the right version of EOS Utility installed, you should be able to use it to download the images from the camera, even over USB. Unfortunately, Canon cameras don't show up as storage devices when connected via USB for some reason. However, you can use Image Capture.app to access it's storage over USB and download the images that way. (As an aside, this applies to all Canon cameras that I'm aware of at least). Hope that helps.

That means that homebrew isn’t installed or for some reason isn’t in you path. If you followed the section about installing Homebrew did you get an error when that was running? If you didn’t, you’ll need to go to brew.sh and follow the instructions for installing it there.

Off hand, my guess would be that your card isn't properly formatted or was left in a corrupted or broken state from being removed prematurely, or at least the file system was. If you know there's data on the card, try sticking in in a computer and running chckdisk (windows) or fsck (mac/linux) on it to fix any issues with the file system.

@@PointsInFocus So, it wasn't the cards. I recently acquired the new SmallRig NP-F970 battery for the Ninja V. The battery has a USB-C output as well, so I figured I'd run that to the R5c along w/ the new LC-E6P in the body and be good-to-go. Extra power for the camera while also powering the the Ninja V, right?! Yeah, no. I guess that's what dummy batteries are for because my R5c evidently became quite confused, hence the grey out 🙃

In my defense, I figured the R5c would prioritize receiving the PD power from the NP battery and then switch to the LC when that ran out. I guess that's not how it works, huh?

The camera does prioritize PD power over the internal battery, assuming it successfully established the PD setup. You can actually remove the internal battery while the camera is on PD and recording and it won't stop. Personally, I'd look at the battery, not the camera. It's what's goign to advertise what PD Profiles it can support and when, as well as ending the PD session when it can't meet those needs. I don't have one of those (though it and your idea are very attractive actually, I could use a bigger NPF battery too, so I might have to pick one of those up). Does the PD icon on the camera's display come up when it's hooked up to the battery alone? If so, does it stay active if you then attach the battery to the Ninja and turn it on? A Ninja (I looked at the specs for the Ultra) shouldn't pull more than 22W. Combine that with the camera's 27W, and we're only talking about 49W, which is well short of the 76W that battery is supposed to be able to provide. So I don't see why it would turn off the PD port if you have something on the main connector.

Ya, well, the first thing you're going to learn about grip gear is that you never have enough and will always need more.

@@PointsInFocus yeah Camera gear also lol. My girlfriend keeps saying that's so great You have everything you need.

You know, I don't find that to be really true with cameras and lenses. Once you cover the bases 15-500mm roughly, and maybe a couple specialist things, and a couple of duplicates in the 24-70 ish range if you have more than one camera, but I found that I don't really need more. On the other hand, I've got something like 9 super clamps, and I always find I need like 1 or 2 more. The same thing goes for magic arms, c-stands, little monitor arms, little camps, all that kind of stuff. And every time I buy another one, I find that I still need one more at some point not that far down the line...

Unfortunately no. The 30 minute limit is a hard limit in the camera's firmware, there's nothing you can do to get around it other than use an external recorder to record the video from the HDMI port.

@@PointsInFocus Thank you, originally the 30 minute limit was a Japan government tax rule but other camera makers moved on from that but Canon seemed to be a holdout here but there’s no limit on the R5C or the R5 mk II, when there were heating issues a few years ago, Canon used the 30 minute limit as an excuse. I think it can be changed in firmware. I’m not likely to get the mk II because of the limit.

My research was that it was an EU import tariff that was the cause. Panasonic had unlimited record firmwares globally, including Japan (at least that's my recollection), for ages with only a limited firmware for cameras sold in the EU. The tariff was "repealed" (a better way to put it might be not renewed) in the early 2010s, but didn't actually expire until July of 2020; just after the R5 was originally supposed to start shipping in Q1 2020 -- so the camera still had the 30 min limit. Canon could have removed it when the pandemic delayed everything but didn't. They absolutely could update the firmware to remove it. Well at least technically. Though I'm not sure that doing so wouldn't run afoul of some of the US tax and accounting laws. At least that was the that a lot of companies made with the start of subscription software. They claimed couldn't add even minor new features because the US Tax code required them to account for the change in value of the product sold and something something... At least that's the story they fed to the media and consumers. The limit never would have applied to the R5C, as it was always marketed and sold as a video camera (though it also didn't come out until after the tariff ended too) not a still camera, just like there never was a limit on any of Canon's cinema or video cameras. Since they were always sold as such, and paid the tariff. As for companies disregarding it before 2020, well, it's companies and lawyers, and what not. Ask two lawyers what the law says and you'll get two different, often conflicting interpretations. Sony, they were the big one that seemed to disregard it, either figured they could get away with it since it wasn't being renewed, or just ate whatever the cost was to have the feature and gain the market share.

@@PointsInFocus Thanks for your answer, it is interesting, especially how different camera makers interacted with it. For me I’m not a video person and only came up with the restriction once, so it’s a “nice to have” feature. I was told that pros only record 5-10 minute scenes anyway.

It really depends on the field. If you go back an look at film on a movie set, you only get 4 or 5 minutes at a time before you have to reload the camera. If you're shooting cinematic stuff, sure, 30 minutes is way more than you need. No scene is more than a couple minutes long anyway. Even a really long oner like the ferry crossing in Jaws, is less than 2 minutes long. News gathering is not all that different in many cases, though there certainly are times where the cameras roll constantly and they just cut the interesting bits out later. If you're a doc shooter, or doing interview work, then the record limit can easily be more problematic. I did a bunch of oral history interviews with my grandma before she passed away, I shot those on my 5D3 and 5D4 at the time. It was a struggle to ask a question and hope the discussion didn't run for 35 minutes, and have to interrupt to restart the cameras. Moreover, as a solo shooter my gripe really comes down to it just being one more thing to think or worry about. I've got so many things on my mind that anything I don't have to worry about at all, even if there's almost 0 chance of actually having a problem with it, is a net benefit.

Links are now in the description.

The official Canon USA page for the dummy battery is at: www.usa.canon.com/shop/p/dc-coupler-dr-e6p If you'd like to buy the DR-E6P and help support the channel, you can buy it from Amazon (affiliate link) here: amzn.to/3MNZqmJ Though I should node, Canon doesn't list the DR-E6P as being compatible with the R5C. It might work, it might not, or it might over volt the camera. I don't know and I haven't had any specific reports about that yet either.

@@PointsInFocus Thanks :)

If those lenses are EF-S lenses, then yes. The camera will automatically switch in to the 1.6x crop mode when it detects EF-S and RF-S lenses.

You're welcome. It's maybe not as glamorous as camera stuff, but at least personally, I found I've often been left a bit lost on the ancillary bits and the presumption that you'll just know what to do with them or that you're working in a situation where someone will train you.

I haven't had issues personally, and I haven't seen any widespread reports of problems either. So I'd say you're good to go.

Yes, but not with the multiple exposure function. The closest you can get to what you want to do is use the in camera intervalometer function to shoot your 20 frame sequence, and then stack them in post using photoshop or one of the various astrophotography stacking programs. The multiple exposure tool is limited to 8 exposures only, and does not preform any kind of alignment when it combines exposures.

@@PointsInFocus Thank you so much!

I don't see any disadvantages, aside from buying new batteries. As for advantages, I don't actually know. But since you asked, and I'm curious too, I'll put that on the to do list and look into it.

Good question, I don't know. I'll try to remember to check next time my batteries are low though. That said, in theory, once the camera is on PD, the battery isn't used anymore. So it shouldn't be limited. At least that's how the R5 and R5C work. However, there may be some edge cases that crop up.

There are so many questions that need to be asked to answer that. For starters, what frame rate are you trying to record in? And what format and recording mode are you trying to record in?

No. As long as the camera is off it should be able to charge batteries. I know it works for LP-E6NH and LP-E6N's, and I just checked it works for the LP-E6Ps too.

For one reason or another, Canon requires the highest USB-PD power profile, even though the camera doesn't use anywhere near that much power. It won't pull more than 15-16W when shooting 8K60. I've looked at this both with current and voltage meters, as well as USB-PD power meters, and I've never seen anything near 20W let alone 27W. My guess, is that Canon over states the power requirements when negotiating USB-PD to deal with instantaneous current spikes (like for the inrush current of the AF motors of a big lens). If that's the case, it's doubly frustrating as the USB-PD spec allows for that kind of thing, with devices being able to state their continuous and instantaneous current requirements. That is, Canon could ask for 20W or even 15W, with a much higher instantaneous/short term limit.

@@PointsInFocus That's because you haven't loaded the camera up. Try adding the Tascam adapter to that and supply phantom 48V to two microphones. There's more options, that will result in a higher load. Also, it's not the highest profile. The R5 Mk II requires the 15V profile for USB-C PD power now and the 20V profile for the Canon DR-E6P dummy. Oh ... and then there is the power zoom lenses, like the CN-E 18-80mm T/4.4, CN-E 70-200mm T/4.4 and the new RF 24-105mm F/2.8 IS L Z ... of which their motors also are fed from the camera unless you feed them with external power, too.

Fair point on the CA-XLR2d and power zoom lenses; didn't even think about them. That said, I don't get a paycheck (or any support) from Canon for these videos so I do my best to get as much correct as I can. As for the 9V/3A not being the highest power profile. What I was trying to say was the highest for for the 9V power level. There's obviously higher profiles in the 15 and 20V ranges, and with USB-PD 3 even higher voltages than that. But the camera isn't a 15 or 20V device, and the highest profile permitted in the standard in the 9V range is 3A.

@@PointsInFocus Fair. And neither am I getting paid by Canon. I'm just pointing out, why they required said profile. (plus, I've actually tested and used said gear with it)

My very limited understanding of the DR-E6P is that it takes either 15 or 20V USB-PD voltages, and divides that voltage in half to provide either 7.5 or 10V to the camera. At least in theory that means it should be compatible with everything Canon makes (except the R5C's full power mode). Though I don't have a DR-E6P, the test equipment to see if it works safely, or the spare cameras to potentially destroy to find out. Would love to know though.

As far as I know, no. The LP-E6Ps seem to work fine in the BG-R10. In fact, I can't really tell what the difference is between the BG-R10 and BG-R20 other than the new numb on the thumb stick (though I haven't taken the two apart to see if there aren't any internal differences).

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you!! 😊

That's my plan too, E6Ps to replace the Ns and NHs that I have are getting long in the tooth. I've got some ancillary stuff like my slider and a monitor that can use LP-E6 series batteries, so I'll probably keep them until they're completely dead for that stuff.

Appreciate it!

I don't have that handle, but looking at the webpage for it, I don't think so. Looking at the page for the handle, and the supported camera list, it's not doing HDMI over USB-C and converting. It presents to the camera as a USB-C mass storage device. This means that the camera has to support writing to external USB storage to be able to use it, which as you know the R5C doesn't.

@@PointsInFocus That was my hunch, but I needed the Premiere R5c Expert to confirm. Hoping my R5c's future big brother, C80, will pull through in this regard, because that handle's design is genius for recording. Thanks for the quick response and keep up the good work!

Look into auto poles or vari-poles. Manfrotto and Impact make them (Matthews or Avenger may as well, but they're more expensive). They have basically no foot print and spring-load between the floor and ceiling. You use super clamps to hang your lights off them. You can also run them horizontally from wall to wall, I have one setup this way, but it's also supported by 2 other vertical ones too. I switched over to them from light stands last year, and generally haven't looked back since. I bought the less expensive Impact brand ones, and I haven't seen any real disadvantage compared to the like 2x more expensive Manfrottos.

@@PointsInFocus Yes that definitely sounds like exactly what I need to be honest. I'm renting an old house trying not to Mount too many things to the walls. Not that mounting to the wall ever works out very well because it's all horsepair plaster. As always thank you so much I'm going to take a look at these.