Excellent! Thanks! 'Chamfered Edge' (pronounced 'shamfered') is the terminology you are looking for I think. [abgeschrägte kante?] Also, your 'Cotter' is a 'Woodruff Key' in English. Hope this helps! Your English is excellent by the way! Best wishes, Rich.
Thanks for the video! So cool to see the differences between what subaru provides from the factory versus what is put into a full blown race car! All in all it seems like the subaru crank is the one to go with for any daily driven/street build, and the arrow is the choice for any type of racing application!
The OEM nitrated crankshafts in the late model 255 & 257 are forged and not cast. The 2.5 is forged going back to the phase 2 ej251 sohc. When they came out with the ej257 in the 2004 STI. The crank had the same part as the 251.
great video, and it all comes down to what are you doing with the car after the build. i took a BMC C series engine crankshaft to a machinist in Ballarat Victoria Australia, he asked the following questions: Q1. are you racing/hill climbing A. No, Q2. are you doing more than 10K kilometres per year A. No he told me he'd lininsh the crank to remove the questionable marks (it was already .020 over std) and it would be fine, and not waste a ton of cash on a race engine. (same engine as the Austin Healey 100/6) i know a guy that had the exact same engine rebuilt in Ballarat several years ago for $7980.00, and he would have answered no the same as i did, it was a different shop who did what the customer asked for without suggesting any cheaper options. I rebuilt my entire engine myself, gearbox, differential and all wheel bearings & brakes for under $2000, and the engine sounds bloody marvelous, i just need to sort a few rust spots in the paint and i'll be driving it on the roads again. oh i did have a professional come visit to help assemble the differential and get the backlash right, i lacked the lower range torque wrench.
What is the Benefits of the side oil Channel in the last crankshaft and also is that going to make low oil pressure problems because it’s open all the time ?
I don't understand it too. My english is not so good: Bei 7:22 steckst du dein Putzi durch die Löcher aber dann müsste man doch dort zur Schwungscheibe hin abdichten und die Löcher gehen auch durch die Gegengewichte da fließt doch das Öl raus. Ich versteh das nicht bitte erklär es mir. Bittttte. Ich wäre dir ehrlich sehr Dankbar!
Perfect! Now i know a good alternative crankshaft to choose... I cant afford rcm/arrow crank.. but zrp crank design were good upgrade from stock subaru crank.. "Oil hole chamfer" for factory with double chamfer need really big pump.. but zrp is more efficient and can use stock oilpump
@@ulisesaguilar4241 yo llevo un Garrert gt3582r con la rueda del compresor billet, es mas ligera y aerodinamica que la original y por esto carga antes, en torno a 3800rpm ya hay soplado, ahora tiene 22mil km el motor y va igual que el primer dia.
@@7urnme el corte está en 8500 rpm, aunque casi nunca llegó tan arriba, usualmente a 7500 cambio de marcha, ahí está el pico de torque y potencia por lo que revolucionar más no tiene sentido.
would a crankshaft upgrade be worth it for a track car ? i don't plan on turboing it or anything. just keeping stock engine but improving exhaust and cooling systems to maximize the stock motor with dyno ECU tuning. I don't want the engine to spotaneously combust when doing several laps on a long track. not sure if a crankshaft upgrade would be worth the money.
Hi Are there like bungs in the end we’re the crank has been drilled? Otherwise the oil pressure is going to be leaking out against the flywheel. I can’t see how it can build up good oil pressure the hole in the front of the crank is also going to waste oil pressure. I can’t see how this is going to work? Please explain?
Please comment on the real advantages of WRX RA Sodium filled exhaust manifold, of Nur24h. Does it really work to extract heat from the engine ? Thanks. 😜
hello subaru xv 2018 model 16. I have a motor car I want power between 400 & 500 hp. Do you have a prej, how is the offer for xv and how much does it cost? I have been following your studies for a long time and I am very congratulated, you have great engineering studies.
You can't estimate correctly - it all depends on; 1- how deep are your pockets? 2- want a daily reliable robust engine? handy with spanner?.. saves costs if you are! Otherwise get ready to fork out 13K to 15K for a over built engine (800BHPish) to handle 400 to 500 BHP DAILY.. daily being the main word.
I commend you on your videos. I have a EJ22 in storage. So I am keen on your videos. Your speech can be a little hard to follow, so today for clarity(?) I activated CC function. You really must do the same! At most it's confusing, at best, hilarious.
It´s very simple if you think about it. this 2 pieces run the crack pulley at the same speed as the crankshaft, The crank pulley drives the Subaru timing belt wich is twice the lenght as a normal one in another engines. on normal street ej20´s the timing belt deflects a lot because is way too long. Now add the fact of a gearbox without sincronizers and no springs on the clutch on racing or tunned cars. In this situation it´s not imposible nor even difficult to snap the cotter or woodruff key leaving the crank pulley and the crankshaft not running at the same speed. When this happen, the crankshaft and cam shafts also don´t run at the same speed so you bend the valves hitted by the pistons and bye bye engine leaving you a very good Picasso wok of art LOL. So if you have 2 instead of 1 woodruff key it maybe hold better the abuse.
Bei 7:22 steckst du dein Putzi durch die Löcher aber dann müsste man doch dort zur Schwungscheibe hin abdichten und die Löcher gehen auch durch die Gegengewichte da fließt doch das Öl raus. Ich versteh das nicht bitte erklär es mir. Bittttte. Ich wäre dir ehrlich sehr Dankbar!
I can show how to turn your crankshaft mains into oil pumps for the rod bearings, as long as there is oil to the mains the crank will do the rest of the work sending pressurized (in addition to oil pump pressure ) oil to rod bearings.also never run a cross drilled crank in anything turning more than about 5000 rpm
Excellent! Thanks! 'Chamfered Edge' (pronounced 'shamfered') is the terminology you are looking for I think. [abgeschrägte kante?]
Also, your 'Cotter' is a 'Woodruff Key' in English. Hope this helps! Your English is excellent by the way!
Best wishes, Rich.
Yes you are correct
Thanks for the video! So cool to see the differences between what subaru provides from the factory versus what is put into a full blown race car! All in all it seems like the subaru crank is the one to go with for any daily driven/street build, and the arrow is the choice for any type of racing application!
Great video. Most people would call that key at the end of the crankshaft Woodruff Key here in the states. I cotter pin would be bent/crimped.
best engine build channel I have found,
Fantastic analysis. Very practical insights -- as you always do. Thank you once again.
The OEM nitrated crankshafts in the late model 255 & 257 are forged and not cast. The 2.5 is forged going back to the phase 2 ej251 sohc. When they came out with the ej257 in the 2004 STI. The crank had the same part as the 251.
All subaru cranks are forged.
@@13Anko he said cast for the OEM in his video
great video, and it all comes down to what are you doing with the car after the build.
i took a BMC C series engine crankshaft to a machinist in Ballarat Victoria Australia, he asked the following questions:
Q1. are you racing/hill climbing A. No, Q2. are you doing more than 10K kilometres per year A. No
he told me he'd lininsh the crank to remove the questionable marks (it was already .020 over std) and it would be fine, and not waste a ton of cash on a race engine. (same engine as the Austin Healey 100/6)
i know a guy that had the exact same engine rebuilt in Ballarat several years ago for $7980.00, and he would have answered no the same as i did, it was a different shop who did what the customer asked for without suggesting any cheaper options.
I rebuilt my entire engine myself, gearbox, differential and all wheel bearings & brakes for under $2000, and the engine sounds bloody marvelous, i just need to sort a few rust spots in the paint and i'll be driving it on the roads again.
oh i did have a professional come visit to help assemble the differential and get the backlash right, i lacked the lower range torque wrench.
I have been waiting for this video all my life. Big thanks for showing this.
If anyone hasn't said it, I'll say it, again. I really appreciate the English videos.
What is the Benefits of the side oil Channel in the last crankshaft and also is that going to make low oil pressure problems because it’s open all the time ?
I don't understand it too. My english is not so good:
Bei 7:22 steckst du dein Putzi durch die Löcher aber dann müsste man doch dort zur Schwungscheibe hin abdichten und die Löcher gehen auch durch die Gegengewichte da fließt doch das Öl raus. Ich versteh das nicht bitte erklär es mir. Bittttte. Ich wäre dir ehrlich sehr Dankbar!
Perfect! Now i know a good alternative crankshaft to choose...
I cant afford rcm/arrow crank.. but zrp crank design were good upgrade from stock subaru crank..
"Oil hole chamfer" for factory with double chamfer need really big pump.. but zrp is more efficient and can use stock oilpump
Wrong the bearing clearance desides oil flow not how many galleries there is
I have the original nitrided one in my 2.1 stroker ej207 running 565 awhp, 6700km done and no problems
18k km and still strong as first day
any turbo upgrade I. your build ? I'm thinking as the mates said fp green turbo .
@@ulisesaguilar4241 yo llevo un Garrert gt3582r con la rueda del compresor billet, es mas ligera y aerodinamica que la original y por esto carga antes, en torno a 3800rpm ya hay soplado, ahora tiene 22mil km el motor y va igual que el primer dia.
how much rev??
@@7urnme el corte está en 8500 rpm, aunque casi nunca llegó tan arriba, usualmente a 7500 cambio de marcha, ahí está el pico de torque y potencia por lo que revolucionar más no tiene sentido.
Grand merci pour cette analyse .
Mon choix ira donc pour l`origine subaru, qui ne sera pas dépassé par ce que j`en pense faire .
I absolutely love watching your videos...very informative and you explain everything very well.
Your English is really good mate, it's so cool to see the inside of a workshop in Deutschland , how was your business founded ?
And what about Manley Turbo Tuff, or Cosworth one? Are they any good?
Please come to America. How are you not famous yet.
cross drilled chamfered oil holes nitrided crank shaft with knife edging ~ factory crank !
Thanks for another awesome informative video... Great explanation, and nice that you showed the weight differences.
Thank you so much. More grease to your elbow and more wisdom always. Amen
Arrow. Best rods too. Suppliers to WRC. Made in the U.K. Avoid Chinese made products wherever possible.
Can you do a comparison about BC, tomei, cosworth, scat, Manley crankshaft? Danke.
would a crankshaft upgrade be worth it for a track car ? i don't plan on turboing it or anything. just keeping stock engine but improving exhaust and cooling systems to maximize the stock motor with dyno ECU tuning.
I don't want the engine to spotaneously combust when doing several laps on a long track. not sure if a crankshaft upgrade would be worth the money.
Hi Are there like bungs in the end we’re the crank has been drilled? Otherwise the oil pressure is going to be leaking out against the flywheel. I can’t see how it can build up good oil pressure the hole in the front of the crank is also going to waste oil pressure. I can’t see how this is going to work? Please explain?
Parabéns campeão admiro muito seu trabalho Deus te abençoe grandemente 🙏🏻
Whats the web thickness on those cranks?
Please comment on the real advantages of WRX RA Sodium filled exhaust manifold, of Nur24h.
Does it really work to extract heat from the engine ? Thanks. 😜
what happened to the EG33 boss man??
Cool video. I learned something. Thanks 👍👍
Great show!! Thanks for the information. Thanks for the English 👍😁
Great. Thank you for explaining what the difference is. 🤟
Смотрел с переводом, но суть понял. Спасибо
И какой лучше?
Nice Video thx.
Can you do a video how to repair engine of Subaru vivió 97 and we're to order the parts. Thanks.
I did enjoy this and thank you for it.
Do you have any recommendations for an Fa20 build?
Wie sind die großen japanischen Hersteller im Vergleich dazu? Wie JUN HKS Tomei etc.?
Würde mich auch interessieren, mach bitte mehr Vergleichsvideos.
when there will be a video about the diesel subaru
chauffeured edges on the oil feeds on the ZRP cranks
hello subaru xv 2018 model 16. I have a motor car I want power between 400 & 500 hp. Do you have a prej, how is the offer for xv and how much does it cost?
I have been following your studies for a long time and I am very congratulated, you have great engineering studies.
You can't estimate correctly - it all depends on;
1- how deep are your pockets?
2- want a daily reliable robust engine?
handy with spanner?.. saves costs if you are!
Otherwise get ready to fork out 13K to 15K for a over built engine (800BHPish) to handle 400 to 500 BHP DAILY.. daily being the main word.
For the arrow, do they have to covered up end of the oil channel on flywheel side?
If I'm not mistaken, the flywheel bolts will do that.
@@ericn7698
The flywheel bolts are bigger and outside that oil hole,so they must get capped some how??
I commend you on your videos. I have a EJ22 in storage. So I am keen on your videos. Your speech can be a little hard to follow, so today for clarity(?) I activated CC function. You really must do the same! At most it's confusing, at best, hilarious.
Thank you 🇰🇪🇰🇪
How about Manley turbo tuff
He said are more like zrc middle crank 👍
9:30 isn't that front of the engine? I can't find reason why it's better with sequential gearbox
It´s very simple if you think about it. this 2 pieces run the crack pulley at the same speed as the crankshaft, The crank pulley drives the Subaru timing belt wich is twice the lenght as a normal one in another engines. on normal street ej20´s the timing belt deflects a lot because is way too long. Now add the fact of a gearbox without sincronizers and no springs on the clutch on racing or tunned cars. In this situation it´s not imposible nor even difficult to snap the cotter or woodruff key leaving the crank pulley and the crankshaft not running at the same speed. When this happen, the crankshaft and cam shafts also don´t run at the same speed so you bend the valves hitted by the pistons and bye bye engine leaving you a very good Picasso wok of art LOL. So if you have 2 instead of 1 woodruff key it maybe hold better the abuse.
Nicely!
How do they compare to the Manley Billet crank?
They are nearly like ZRP :) cheers
Comparable to ZRP. Chinese.
Subi Performance thank you!! Stay safe my friend!
Maxymillion guess I’ll stick with the nitride lol
🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘
ценники на коленвалы просто воздушные.... слов нет...
My crankshaft is best crankshaft because FORGED!
That's Regular cars review reference BTW :p
SCAT or Eagle....next
Junk
@@markcozzie based in opinion or experience? Not looking for an internet fight just asking.
Id also like to see how scat, eagle, and manley rout the oil passages.
Bei 7:22 steckst du dein Putzi durch die Löcher aber dann müsste man doch dort zur Schwungscheibe hin abdichten und die Löcher gehen auch durch die Gegengewichte da fließt doch das Öl raus. Ich versteh das nicht bitte erklär es mir. Bittttte. Ich wäre dir ehrlich sehr Dankbar!
Make sure your crankshaft will not give your Subi CARVID-19.
DUMKOFF !
@@ronnieboucherthecrystalcraftsm Are you cranky? Lost your bearing?
5:05 i would describe that as a bevel or beveled edge.
NO = wrong chamfered oil holes = any engine builder will tell you !
Nobody gonna comment on those pushrod crankshafts in the background of shot?
None of the crankshafts there are cast, and for sure the oem crankshafts are not cast but they are forged to shape and then machined.
It’s not called a cotter, it’s called a Woodruff key.
I can show how to turn your crankshaft mains into oil pumps for the rod bearings, as long as there is oil
to the mains the crank will do the rest of the work sending pressurized (in addition to oil pump pressure )
oil to rod bearings.also never run a cross drilled crank in anything turning more than about 5000 rpm
Show us the finger you smashed breaking in your house!!!!
warum is dir originale kurbelwelle so billig😯
Gute Info aber dein Akzent ist hart hahah ich hätte es mir lieber auf Deutschland angehört.
He said black and hrs German,
I'm telling BLM 😂
Come to America I will be your slave.
Buy a real Porsche engine:)
Русский язык где??????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Hi would like to know the brand heat shield material