I used to work at a heavy machinery component producer. We did tungsten carbide coatings on high wear components, applied through hvof (supersonic spraying of molten metal). I used to do tedting for samples etc. a thin layer of coating is very heavy. I've always wanted to design a minimalist blade style putter with hvof coating to add weight and make it so hard you couldn't ding it 😂
This was absolutely marvelous! Have you ever thought about offering this as a service to individuals that want their putter refinished? This right here was all the advertising I needed. Great job
@@igolf906 so glad to hear that! Not that your busy… but doing this for other people. Fantastic. You have inspired me to want to do this myself for my putter!
Thank you so much! I hope to in the future, make another video like this and go more in depth. I've learned a lot even since this video. Seems like it can help a lot of people trying it themselves.
TY for the informative video. Love the work, detail, and explanation. Scotty Cameron Putters are a work of art. It's not just a putter. If you're an avid golfer, you want a Scotty in the bag. But there are other nice putters too, Taylormade and PIng.
Curious to see if u ever used, like I do….a bench top dual Sissal wheels, w metal compounds, like those found at Harbor Freight? Need a mask near Sissal wheel fibers, maybe more labor on small dings, scratches….but the finish is to die for…when u mix compound sticks. BTW, I use the stellar cost effective Turtle Wax Ceramic spray wax x 2 curing overnight coats…on all surfaces but the club face…keeps corrosion away/shine after a restore lasts longer, debris w wet rag wipes right off. Hope this helps! Like to see more restore vids from u w drivers, woods, wedges, irons, hybrids…all requiring diff techniques/processes/etc…
Standard buffing wheels will never get all the dents and dings out of a damaged putter. I use them for some restores, but only for polishing and finishing. As for other types of clubs, restoring drivers or woods really wouldn't be worth the time as there's not much you can really do. And I've done some irons and wedges but, most are chrome and nickel plated and I just don't want to get deep into the chemicals needed to properly strip them.
It amazes me how bad peoples putters look when they come with a head cover. I got 20 putters and they are all in mint condition because I use the head cover. You do phenomenal work sir !
Seriously. I got a guy i go to for second hand gear, he has a huge stockpile, including a handful of Scotty's and other putters that came to him WITH the original head covers, yet most of them they are still dinged and scratched up.
No, if you're restoring anything with plating, it needs to be professionally stripped. Otherwise, it will be a mess, and the finish will be splotchy at best. And it would definitely need to be replated.
@@igolf906 :/ thanks for the quick reply and bad news lol. I was afraid of that though. what about Cerakoting irons? hmmm sounds cool, but would it hold up? Cerakote is a durable ceramic paint basically right? great job on the putter!
While testor paint is cheaper. I found that some women’s fingernail polish has color blends that make the putter design look great. Only problem is my 12 year old keeps raiding my paint cabinet lol😅
first off, thanks so much for the video. i'm going to make my 1st attempt at refinishing a putter. you list a lot of materials but i didn't see you use them all. for example, when do you use the CGW grinding wheel vs the SI Fang polishing wheel? and do you add any polishing compound? also, at what point do you use the fret erasers? thanks again for the video and all the advice!
That's a list of everything I've used in total. If you watch all of my videos, I've used everyone of those items for a certain project. Not all of them for every job. It's just a list that I add to with everything I've ever used. So people watching any of my newer videos will have an updated list of everything
I use two types of wheels. The ones I use the most and are the best in my opinion, are these 3M wheels. amzn.to/4aWykUr Expensive but, last a long time and work the best. These are labeled as fine, but the other wheels I use I look for 240 & 400 grit.
I mean sure? If you have a tool small enough but. Just have to be really careful with handheld power tools on these. Like I said the Dremel is rarely taken out, but in this case, it was a minor fix so knew it wouldnt be a problem.
@@igolf906 thank you so much. I lent a pristine studio stainless Newport to the nutter next door who lost the head cover and continued using it. Some minor dents on top line only tho
Yes it will work. It will just take awhile. If your putter is badly dinged up I'd recommend something in the 60-100 grit range. And then work your way up. End with 400 or so. It still won't be a uniform finish without a Bead blast though.
@brockstrong3466 for a good factory finish that's uniform, no. There is no substitute in my opinion. Unless you wanted to hand sand to a higher grit and polish.
Hi Corey, What’s the best way to remove Pro platinum finish? I sand blasted mine but learned after I didn’t do a good enough job sanding it. Might just have to keep sanding the. Blast again! TIA!! 🙌🏽
So I'm working on a 2018 newport 2. I'm having Bent Werx from Illinois fill the sole branding and convert the it to a short slant next, the unfortunate thing about the screw in insert scotty's is how thick the top line and radii/chamfers behind the top line are. Do you have any recommendations to grind/round out those chamfers to better resemble the contours on the new Super Select putters? I.E. more rounded?
If you're already setup with the proper wheel then I guess you can slowly work at it to round the corners off a bit. I honestly wouldn't recommend it but. I've done a ton of 2016-2018s and the toplines to me, don't seem much thicker than the rest. If thats what you mean.
I'm curious what you typically charge for a refurbish like this, without the cerakote step? I just got an old odyssey black series #1 that I love the feel of, and the original look, but it is dinged and scratched up quite a bit on the top line and bottom edge.
Prices vary for the work being done and the model. That's why Scotties are the most common done as a the refurb doesn't exceed the value of the putter. 🤷♂️ Shoot me an email if you want more details or anything
Any chance you could tell me the hardness / density rating for one of these wheels? They are kinda expensive and i want to make sure to get the right one...
Check any of my newer videos. The wheels I list that you can choose the grit and hardness are only $9-$14. I use 7p for all of those. The Scotchbrite wheel I use is just labeled as 2s fine.
Is there a cerkote color you recommend that looks most like a simple satin bead finish? And if you just leave it as a satin bead finish, do you treat it with anything else to prevent rust?
Stainless steel doesn't rust, so it's not treated after a bead blast. As far, as Cerakote colors go, I have every single swatch Cerakote has and none of them replicate a bead blast finish. Some are similar, but it's just not the same.
Any chance you could link the wheel you're using from the beginning of this video or even something very similar? I'm new to this, and I'm unsure about what to purchase.
I do offer the service when people ask for it. I am not setup to do it myself YET, so I send it out to get done. In the near future I plan to be set up to do all the custom work myself, like face milling, weld filling, etc.
I don't run a convolute wheel on the face but occasionally will run a buffer on it if it's really bad to shine it up a bit before sandblasting. Not enough to effect the milling at all, just to shine it up.
I offer to have it done for anyone getting a restore. Currently I outsource it to get any milling done. But in the near future, I may be setup up to do it all myself, in shop.
@@igolf906 This was something that was holding me back from attempting to refinish. I haven’t had much luck in this area finding someone to do face milling.
I wouldn't attempt it. They're just too small and would cause divots in the putter. Even with a super steady hand. I'm not sure they sell a deburring or convoluted style drum for a dremel either but that would be necessary
The thumbnail is actually the putter after grinding out the nicks and dings. At that point it looks OK, but you will never get a good uniform finish from the wheels alone. You could hand sand the rest of the way to make it look nice and uniform. But that would take forever. For a satin finish, like Scotty Camerons Factory finishes, I would blast it with a much higher grit glass bead to have a nice satin finish.
Hey dude, have learned a lot on your channel. Have an old TP Mills putter with lots of deep dings on the bottom. Should I be too concerned about going too deep to get those out? Also how many RPMs are your running your grinder? 3500? Faster? What did you use for the dremel? Lastly have you ever powder coated a putter?
My bench grinder is rated at 3450. I used a small diamond style tip on the Dremel. They cut the best so are easier to handle when you only want to take off a little bit. And no I don't powder coat. Cerakote is by far the best spray on type coating for putters so. When you get into powder coats a lot of them aren't solvent resistant, so paintfill would be nearly impossible.
Thanks that makes sense on the powder coat. For some reason I thought they were resistant(welll minus acetone) but was hopeful about mineral spirits. Good to know. I worked on my Odyssey and TP Mills putter today and I needed to add pressure. It worked out fine. Thanks for the dremel tip as well.
Never worked with one of those before. But if it's a multi piece putter, and if there's no screws holding it together, then it's more than likely held together with adhesives. And you need heat to break up the adhesive, and pull the pieces apart
If doing the entire putter, I don't recommend it. I've used them for hard to reach spots in the read cavity before but that's it. You would be better off hand sanding it.
Do you CERAKOTE or send it out, have you showed that process if it is done in house? I just purchased a new bench grinder and I am excited to try things out. Thank you for sharing your wisdom.
lots of videos on cerakoting online, mostly automotive basically, needs sprayed on I believe, but similiar to powder coating but no oven required, ceramic based, very hard and durable hence the many automotive and motorbike applications. then clear coats can be applied over to enhance and protect paint even more, go for it! make a video too :)
Details on your 320 grit wheel? Where did you find it? how much do they cost? I do similar work but haven't seen a wheel like that. Is it scotch brite material? Thanks
Yes. I have a lot of videos showing a standard Bead blasted finish. But different blasting media and psi settings need to be used to get a good finish.
@@masonanzlovar It's just a small plastic bristled hobby brush. Picked it up from my local Hobby Lobby. Not really sure 🤷🏽♂️. For the dots, I like to use a small dropper depending on the finish I'm looking for
I've got a question: when you buff the steel like you do in the beginning does that make it more susceptible to rust? I have no clue about this sort of thing. Thanks!
This putter is stainless steel. So it won't rust with work being done. If it were a carbon steel putter like a Pro Platinum or a Classic Newport then yes, if would take it mostly down to bare metal and would be susceptible to rust.
@@igolf906 Thank you very much for the reply! I have been thinking of doing something similar with my studio select newport 2.7 but wasn't sure if it would cause any rusting down the line
Are you talking about the deburring wheels? Some companies sell them by the grit, which 320 would be the grit. But 3m sells them buy, course, medium, fine etc. The 3M wheel I have I believe is a 2F (Fine). The wheels I use to use (no longer available) were 240 grit and 400 grit.
I'm loving the video, thank you for going into a lot more detail of your work! It really helps out those of us who are contemplating doing our own putter refinishing. In your honest opinion is it worth the investment of tools and the learning curve to refinish 2-3 putters?
2 or 3 and done? I'll be honest and say no. But depends on if you're going to be doing a lot of just hand work for yourself. Between equipment, tools, materials and trying out new processes I've spent $1000s. I've lost count really 😩
@iGolf906 I hear you on losing money, I have more past "hobbies" than I care to count. 😆 I have a blast cabinet I haven't even used yet, I don't even know how the dang thing works yet. I also have a bench grinder I could throw one of those wheels on. I even went out and bought a cheap toaster oven from a thrift store for heating up the heads before torching them like I thought I saw you do in one of your past videos. See what I mean about wasting money. 😆 I guess in a weird roundabout way I kinda answered my own question.
@iGolf906 I might as well, lol. What grit wheel are you working with in this video? I don't have the bad nicks in my putters like this one does and being I've never used these types of wheels before I don't want to take off too much material.
@@igolf906 . I DIY’d my Tei3 from watching your videos. I didn’t get a chance to weigh it but was curious cuz I know some was lost just not sure how much. I still have a lot of sanding to do but enjoying the process. Cheers man!!! 🙌🏽
Truly an artist at work!…but…as a novice club restorer….the BIGGEST takeaway I had, was u demystified removing nicks and gouges from the club head! It is not rocket science , just painstaking PATIENCE, knowing WHAT your angles are….and stopping. Knowing the grit of grinding wheel usage is…and WHEN to use a finer grit, and DREMEL. What most people do NOT KNOW….when refinishing ANY similar blade putter, wedge or iron….ya gotta be careful NOT….to remove too much metal ….it throws the entire balance off!
I used to work at a heavy machinery component producer. We did tungsten carbide coatings on high wear components, applied through hvof (supersonic spraying of molten metal). I used to do tedting for samples etc. a thin layer of coating is very heavy. I've always wanted to design a minimalist blade style putter with hvof coating to add weight and make it so hard you couldn't ding it 😂
Interesting.
Just use a putter head cover from day one .. and never let your brother in law borrow it !
This was absolutely marvelous! Have you ever thought about offering this as a service to individuals that want their putter refinished? This right here was all the advertising I needed. Great job
Thanks a lot! Well as a matter of fact, that's why I haven't uploaded in awhile. Been super busy with customer restores.
@@igolf906 so glad to hear that! Not that your busy… but doing this for other people. Fantastic. You have inspired me to want to do this myself for my putter!
Results were absolutely stunning thanks for the video 💯
Thanks!
Beautiful. A work of art. Well done, sir!
This was so satisfying to watch! Thank you for sharing this process. I'm about to do this to an older putter too.
Thank you! Hope to in the future do more videos like this!
For all the free advice, been asking a ton of questions lately
Thank you so much! I hope to in the future, make another video like this and go more in depth. I've learned a lot even since this video. Seems like it can help a lot of people trying it themselves.
@@igolf906 I'm learning as I go, you're video and tips have been a great guidepost though
A video about it would be great
very informative! and turned out beautiful!
TY for the informative video. Love the work, detail, and explanation. Scotty Cameron Putters are a work of art. It's not just a putter. If you're an avid golfer, you want a Scotty in the bag. But there are other nice putters too, Taylormade and PIng.
For a golf purist Cameron putters are all about great marketing only.
Beautiful work
Sure wish I would’ve watch some more videos like this before I messed up my ping putter haha.
What an artist
Superb finish
Thank you!
Great job!
Thanks!
You did a fantastic job with that putter!
Thank you!
@@igolf906 what are your prices?
@@jlue1515 shoot me an email, prices vary depending on model and work being done
Looks amazing man nice work!
Thank you!
Curious to see if u ever used, like I do….a bench top dual Sissal wheels, w metal compounds, like those found at Harbor Freight? Need a mask near Sissal wheel fibers, maybe more labor on small dings, scratches….but the finish is to die for…when u mix compound sticks.
BTW, I use the stellar cost effective Turtle Wax Ceramic spray wax x 2 curing overnight coats…on all surfaces but the club face…keeps corrosion away/shine after a restore lasts longer, debris w wet rag wipes right off. Hope this helps!
Like to see more restore vids from u w drivers, woods, wedges, irons, hybrids…all requiring diff techniques/processes/etc…
Standard buffing wheels will never get all the dents and dings out of a damaged putter. I use them for some restores, but only for polishing and finishing. As for other types of clubs, restoring drivers or woods really wouldn't be worth the time as there's not much you can really do. And I've done some irons and wedges but, most are chrome and nickel plated and I just don't want to get deep into the chemicals needed to properly strip them.
awesome video
Thank you!
Check out my updated video on restoring! I go into much more detail. th-cam.com/video/1_e-j95K6yg/w-d-xo.html
It amazes me how bad peoples putters look when they come with a head cover. I got 20 putters and they are all in mint condition because I use the head cover. You do phenomenal work sir !
Thanks. I feel the same way. People pay $2,$3,$400+ for a putter, and decide not to use a headcover. I dont get it either🤷♂️
Seriously. I got a guy i go to for second hand gear, he has a huge stockpile, including a handful of Scotty's and other putters that came to him WITH the original head covers, yet most of them they are still dinged and scratched up.
will this work w chrome plated irons? i have Wilson FG Tour 100s that I want to re-finish, thanks and great job
No, if you're restoring anything with plating, it needs to be professionally stripped. Otherwise, it will be a mess, and the finish will be splotchy at best. And it would definitely need to be replated.
@@igolf906 :/ thanks for the quick reply and bad news lol. I was afraid of that though. what about Cerakoting irons? hmmm sounds cool, but would it hold up? Cerakote is a durable ceramic paint basically right? great job on the putter!
If I’m going for the stock finish look, any suggestions on how to reduce glare on top of putter?
In my opinion the only way to accomplish that is bead blasting. A high grit glass bead at a low psi.
While testor paint is cheaper. I found that some women’s fingernail polish has color blends that make the putter design look great. Only problem is my 12 year old keeps raiding my paint cabinet lol😅
first off, thanks so much for the video. i'm going to make my 1st attempt at refinishing a putter.
you list a lot of materials but i didn't see you use them all. for example, when do you use the CGW grinding wheel vs the SI Fang polishing wheel? and do you add any polishing compound?
also, at what point do you use the fret erasers?
thanks again for the video and all the advice!
That's a list of everything I've used in total. If you watch all of my videos, I've used everyone of those items for a certain project. Not all of them for every job. It's just a list that I add to with everything I've ever used. So people watching any of my newer videos will have an updated list of everything
Thanks!
Thank you! Email me at igolf906@gmail.com and we can swap info for your gift!
If you don't mind sharing, what wheel grit or type of wheel you used?
Check any of my newer videos descriptions. All of my updated equipment is listed in there. Including the wheels I use.
What grit convolute wheel do you use the most and where did you purchase? thank you
I use two types of wheels. The ones I use the most and are the best in my opinion, are these 3M wheels. amzn.to/4aWykUr
Expensive but, last a long time and work the best. These are labeled as fine, but the other wheels I use I look for 240 & 400 grit.
@@igolf906 Thank you!!
Could you link to where exactly you get that abrasive wheel?
amzn.to/4bL2p9D
A lot of times they are out of stock.
@@igolf906 thanks
With the hand sanding in the cavity could you attach the grit to a vibrating sonic oscillating something ?
I mean sure? If you have a tool small enough but. Just have to be really careful with handheld power tools on these. Like I said the Dremel is rarely taken out, but in this case, it was a minor fix so knew it wouldnt be a problem.
@@igolf906 It was a guess, I have no shed, no tools, no skills, but love watching this type of work.
@@truthlifefishing1730 Thank you!
You are a genius.👍
😂 Not quite but, I enjoy what I do!
Is that satin finish achieved by sand blasting?
@@RowanClark-gr3cg for a proper Satin finish in stainless, it needs to be Bead blasted with glass beads. I use 240 grit.
@@igolf906 thank you so much. I lent a pristine studio stainless Newport to the nutter next door who lost the head cover and continued using it. Some minor dents on top line only tho
Could you also do the same thing with sand paper to smooth the putter out if so would you have a recommend grit?
Yes it will work. It will just take awhile. If your putter is badly dinged up I'd recommend something in the 60-100 grit range. And then work your way up. End with 400 or so. It still won't be a uniform finish without a Bead blast though.
@@igolf906 is there any alternatives to the bead blast?
@brockstrong3466 for a good factory finish that's uniform, no. There is no substitute in my opinion. Unless you wanted to hand sand to a higher grit and polish.
Do you use acetone to clean up the paint fill? I was wondering how it reacts with the cerakote?
I do yes. And that's why cerakote is so widely used. It's resistant to nearly all solvents.
Hi Corey,
What’s the best way to remove Pro platinum finish?
I sand blasted mine but learned after I didn’t do a good enough job sanding it.
Might just have to keep sanding the. Blast again!
TIA!! 🙌🏽
Blasting with a low grit media at a high psi. It will take awhile. You can't rush it.
What type of wheel/stone is that?
Check any of my newer video descriptions. All of my tools and materials are listed there.
So I'm working on a 2018 newport 2. I'm having Bent Werx from Illinois fill the sole branding and convert the it to a short slant next, the unfortunate thing about the screw in insert scotty's is how thick the top line and radii/chamfers behind the top line are. Do you have any recommendations to grind/round out those chamfers to better resemble the contours on the new Super Select putters? I.E. more rounded?
If you're already setup with the proper wheel then I guess you can slowly work at it to round the corners off a bit. I honestly wouldn't recommend it but. I've done a ton of 2016-2018s and the toplines to me, don't seem much thicker than the rest. If thats what you mean.
I'm curious what you typically charge for a refurbish like this, without the cerakote step?
I just got an old odyssey black series #1 that I love the feel of, and the original look, but it is dinged and scratched up quite a bit on the top line and bottom edge.
Not sure it's worth it for a relatively inexpensive second hand putter. plus might be awkward to restore with the bolt on tungsten flange it has.
Prices vary for the work being done and the model. That's why Scotties are the most common done as a the refurb doesn't exceed the value of the putter. 🤷♂️ Shoot me an email if you want more details or anything
Any chance you could tell me the hardness / density rating for one of these wheels? They are kinda expensive and i want to make sure to get the right one...
Check any of my newer videos. The wheels I list that you can choose the grit and hardness are only $9-$14.
I use 7p for all of those. The Scotchbrite wheel I use is just labeled as 2s fine.
Is there a cerkote color you recommend that looks most like a simple satin bead finish? And if you just leave it as a satin bead finish, do you treat it with anything else to prevent rust?
Stainless steel doesn't rust, so it's not treated after a bead blast. As far, as Cerakote colors go, I have every single swatch Cerakote has and none of them replicate a bead blast finish. Some are similar, but it's just not the same.
@@igolf906 how would you treat a carbon steel putter after a sand blast to keep the bead blast finish while protecting it from rust?
@jacklandherrIV if it's raw carbon and you can get a nice uniform bead blast on it, then I hit it with a clear cerakote.
Any chance you could link the wheel you're using from the beginning of this video or even something very similar? I'm new to this, and I'm unsure about what to purchase.
Look at any of my more recent videos Updated wheels I use should be listed in the description.
@@igolf906 just ordered thanks brotha
Nice work! When you do the cerakote does they change the feel off the face at all putting with the milled face?
Cerakote is so thinly applied that any changes in feel, in my opinion, wouldn't be noticed by the average person.
@@igolf906 I sure like the look of that cerakote!
@@dustinh806 Thanks. Cerakote is a great option for different finishes. I'll be picking up a few different colors here soon to test out.
Awesome job mate, love your work.
Wanting to know if you can Cerakote the old Ping Beryllium putters?
Thanks! You can cerakote almost anything as long as it doesn't melt at 170°F. 🤷🏽♂️
highly satisfying to watch lol... do you ever have to re-mill the face ?
I do offer the service when people ask for it. I am not setup to do it myself YET, so I send it out to get done. In the near future I plan to be set up to do all the custom work myself, like face milling, weld filling, etc.
What type of buffing wheel do you use?
It's a Convolute deburring wheel. Check my description for all the tools and materials I use.
Do you restore putters if someone were to ship it to you & pay you for it?
Got your message!
Love your stuff, do you run the face of the putter on the wheel when polishing? Or does that completely mess up the milled face?
I don't run a convolute wheel on the face but occasionally will run a buffer on it if it's really bad to shine it up a bit before sandblasting. Not enough to effect the milling at all, just to shine it up.
Love your work and process. What do you do if face milling is dinged?
Do you have a CNC?
I offer to have it done for anyone getting a restore. Currently I outsource it to get any milling done. But in the near future, I may be setup up to do it all myself, in shop.
@@igolf906 This was something that was holding me back from attempting to refinish. I haven’t had much luck in this area finding someone to do face milling.
I’m curious, do you use the wheel on the face or do you just sandblast it? What’s the process in removing dings on the face?
I would only sandblast the face, unless the customer requests a smooth face. Otherwise it would have to be milled.
Can you do the same with a Drexel?
Dremel
I wouldn't attempt it. They're just too small and would cause divots in the putter. Even with a super steady hand. I'm not sure they sell a deburring or convoluted style drum for a dremel either but that would be necessary
how does it look if you were to skip the sand blasting step?
The thumbnail is actually the putter after grinding out the nicks and dings. At that point it looks OK, but you will never get a good uniform finish from the wheels alone. You could hand sand the rest of the way to make it look nice and uniform. But that would take forever. For a satin finish, like Scotty Camerons Factory finishes, I would blast it with a much higher grit glass bead to have a nice satin finish.
@@igolf906Awesome, thanks!
Any interest in doing this finish on my studio design 2?
Shoot me an email
Hey dude, have learned a lot on your channel. Have an old TP Mills putter with lots of deep dings on the bottom. Should I be too concerned about going too deep to get those out? Also how many RPMs are your running your grinder? 3500? Faster? What did you use for the dremel? Lastly have you ever powder coated a putter?
My bench grinder is rated at 3450. I used a small diamond style tip on the Dremel. They cut the best so are easier to handle when you only want to take off a little bit. And no I don't powder coat. Cerakote is by far the best spray on type coating for putters so. When you get into powder coats a lot of them aren't solvent resistant, so paintfill would be nearly impossible.
Thanks that makes sense on the powder coat. For some reason I thought they were resistant(welll minus acetone) but was hopeful about mineral spirits. Good to know. I worked on my Odyssey and TP Mills putter today and I needed to add pressure. It worked out fine. Thanks for the dremel tip as well.
@@EFreeman1970 No problem!
Hello, can you help me? I have a Wilson Vizor putter, I want to disassemble and restore it. But do you know how I can take these apart? Thx
Never worked with one of those before. But if it's a multi piece putter, and if there's no screws holding it together, then it's more than likely held together with adhesives. And you need heat to break up the adhesive, and pull the pieces apart
@@igolf906 thx, its a wilson Vizor from 2011
Can you use a Dremel?
If doing the entire putter, I don't recommend it. I've used them for hard to reach spots in the read cavity before but that's it. You would be better off hand sanding it.
@@igolf906 Thank you!! Love your work! It's an art!
Do you CERAKOTE or send it out, have you showed that process if it is done in house? I just purchased a new bench grinder and I am excited to try things out. Thank you for sharing your wisdom.
Yes I do my own cerakote. I plan to make a simple how to video on that soon.
lots of videos on cerakoting online, mostly automotive basically, needs sprayed on I believe, but similiar to powder coating but no oven required, ceramic based, very hard and durable hence the many automotive and motorbike applications. then clear coats can be applied over to enhance and protect paint even more, go for it! make a video too :)
What kind of epoxy do you use to put the blade back on the shaft?
Brampton 2 part
@@igolf906 thanks buddy!
Details on your 320 grit wheel? Where did you find it? how much do they cost? I do similar work but haven't seen a wheel like that. Is it scotch brite material? Thanks
They are a convolute wheel. Essentially it's abrasive fibers that are bonded together. These are the ones I'm currently using. amzn.to/3B7xipd
That particular wheel is out of stock for not. Would 180 grit be to rough?@@igolf906
could you leave it sandblasted with no finish?
Yes. I have a lot of videos showing a standard Bead blasted finish. But different blasting media and psi settings need to be used to get a good finish.
@@igolf906 nice I’ll check them out!
Do you have a link for the convolute wheel? I’m in Hawaii and the stock at the hardware store is terrible.
Yes check my video description. Everything I use is linked in there!
@@igolf906 🤙🏼
What tool/brush do you use for paint fill?
@@masonanzlovar It's just a small plastic bristled hobby brush. Picked it up from my local Hobby Lobby. Not really sure 🤷🏽♂️. For the dots, I like to use a small dropper depending on the finish I'm looking for
I've got a question: when you buff the steel like you do in the beginning does that make it more susceptible to rust? I have no clue about this sort of thing. Thanks!
This putter is stainless steel. So it won't rust with work being done. If it were a carbon steel putter like a Pro Platinum or a Classic Newport then yes, if would take it mostly down to bare metal and would be susceptible to rust.
@@igolf906 Thank you very much for the reply! I have been thinking of doing something similar with my studio select newport 2.7 but wasn't sure if it would cause any rusting down the line
Nice work but I would have skipped the cerakote!
Was a customer putter who wanted it. 🤷♂️ Otherwise would just give it a satin bead finish.
How much total weight of the club is stripped off during the process? Perhaps do a before and after weigh in…? Just curious.
Between 3 and 5 grams on average. Not much.
would you do this to mine? i have the same putter
Feel free to email me with more info!
What’s the difference between the 320 and the 3m that I hear people talking about 🤔
Are you talking about the deburring wheels? Some companies sell them by the grit, which 320 would be the grit. But 3m sells them buy, course, medium, fine etc. The 3M wheel I have I believe is a 2F (Fine). The wheels I use to use (no longer available) were 240 grit and 400 grit.
@@igolf906 nice thank you 🙏
Love seeing those transformations. Can't wait to get mine back this week.
😎 Thanks!
Just needed a simple.005 fly cut across the face would have been perfect
This was a customer putter. They didn't want face milling.
Great video! Out of curiosity,how much weight does a restoration like this take off the putter? And roughly how much it cost?
Thanks. A standard restore takes about 3 to 5 grams off. And my basic restore is $65. Cerakote is an added $35.
@@igolf906 thats such a good price for the amazing work you do! Its so expensive in Australia
Weight before vs weight after.
Average restore is 3 to 10 grams.
I'm loving the video, thank you for going into a lot more detail of your work! It really helps out those of us who are contemplating doing our own putter refinishing. In your honest opinion is it worth the investment of tools and the learning curve to refinish 2-3 putters?
2 or 3 and done? I'll be honest and say no. But depends on if you're going to be doing a lot of just hand work for yourself. Between equipment, tools, materials and trying out new processes I've spent $1000s. I've lost count really 😩
But just for the basics. You could do a bench grinder, convolute wheels, and sand blast cabinet for less than $500.
@iGolf906 I hear you on losing money, I have more past "hobbies" than I care to count. 😆 I have a blast cabinet I haven't even used yet, I don't even know how the dang thing works yet. I also have a bench grinder I could throw one of those wheels on. I even went out and bought a cheap toaster oven from a thrift store for heating up the heads before torching them like I thought I saw you do in one of your past videos. See what I mean about wasting money. 😆 I guess in a weird roundabout way I kinda answered my own question.
@@kall3467 for sure! Youre nearly there already!
@iGolf906 I might as well, lol. What grit wheel are you working with in this video? I don't have the bad nicks in my putters like this one does and being I've never used these types of wheels before I don't want to take off too much material.
How much weight did you loose?
The average restore I've noticed is around 3-5 grams.
@@igolf906 . I DIY’d my Tei3 from watching your videos. I didn’t get a chance to weigh it but was curious cuz I know some was lost just not sure how much. I still have a lot of sanding to do but enjoying the process. Cheers man!!! 🙌🏽
@@nasteegolf7 My opinion, a few grams lost is worth having a putter looking new again!
Truly an artist at work!…but…as a novice club restorer….the BIGGEST takeaway I had, was u demystified removing nicks and gouges from the club head! It is not rocket science , just painstaking PATIENCE, knowing WHAT your angles are….and stopping. Knowing the grit of grinding wheel usage is…and WHEN to use a finer grit, and DREMEL.
What most people do NOT KNOW….when refinishing ANY similar blade putter, wedge or iron….ya gotta be careful NOT….to remove too much metal ….it throws the entire balance off!
Why you would arbitrarily remove mass from a semi-balanced putter is beyond me
The balance was not affected by the 3 to 5 grams that was removed. I promise you that. 🙃
Looks like you need a mill. Face has sings
Dings
@@GillyBillman The customer didn't want it done on this particular project.