Thanks, Mike! I was looking for a method to remove the alternator rotor securing bolt on my small block, as I already have the clutch and flywheel removed. Using a pin through the small end - should’ve thought of it myself!
Hi, I have got my V35 Imola on the side stand and got First gear in it. But the Alternator is Still Spinning with the Engine. How is that possible with both tires on Road and First gear? How can I Block it? The Bike is Not disassambled. Could you please advise?
Really great video, thank you. What size is that machined bolt you used to take the rotor winding off please? And how much of that should be machined off? Thanks!
The bolt is a hi tensile M8 (same thread as the alternator bolt) with the bottom 36mm machined off. You can also use a hardened pin with the alternator bolt. Simply tension the bolt and tap it with a hammer to release the rotor from the tapered shaft.
Having changed the rotor on the alternator of my 850 T3 , am still having battery charging problems. Am starting to doubt the stator. Though the circuit is complete on the three phases, am getting a reading of .8 ohms between the three phases with what is supposed to be a modern digital multimeter . Is that reading good or bad ? What seriously appreciate your help Mike as am going round in circles trying to find the problem !
Hi Clive, I’m not an expert in this area but I hope this helps... The stator should show roughly .6 ohms between the three phase windings. Again there should be no connection to ground. From experience I’ve found that cheap multimeters often don’t give an accurate reading at this end of the scale but any reading should be ok so long as it isn’t shorted to ground. The Rotor should show roughly 3 ohms between the slip rings. There should be no connection to ground. You should also check that the brushes are making a good contact with the slip rings. Also clean the connectors in the charging circuit and check that the wiring harness to the rectifier and regulator is ok with a multimeter. The charge light should light up when the ignition is turned on and go out when the engine is revved above idle. If the alternator is charging properly the measured voltage at the battery should be over 13 volts. If you are getting just over 12 volts, the problem is probably with either the voltage regulator or rectifier. The regulator can be bypassed to check the rest of the charging circuit and the rectifier can be tested with a multimeter but it’s a bit complex to explain here. It might be easier to get them checked by an auto electrician if you suspect them. Whilst replacement rectifiers are expensive, compatible electronic regulators are cheap.
@@MikesMachines Thanks a lot for your comprehensive reply Mike. I'm on my third Guzzi, V50 II, GT1000 both of which were brilliant, but I did not make a good investment in this 850 T3 even though I love the bike. I had the whole electrical circuit redone by a "professional "Guzzi specialist who equipped it with electronic ignition . That worked fine for a year and a half, and then started playing up. After much sweat and irritation it turned out that the electronic ignition bloc had been attached to the frame with a metal ring, and the vibrations caused wearing and it ended up shorting out with the frame. The bike would start, work for 15 minutes and then stop...impossible to restart. The guy who did the job had since disappeared. Found some young lads to redo the electronic ignition, which they did, but following that the battery charge light stays on. With the age of the machine I accused the alternator and changed the rotor and brushes. No change. After much research I realized there is quite a complex washer system on the brushes to insulate the DF side and put the D- to ground. But even with that done am still not getting voltage coming out of the stator let alone anywhere else. You will have gathered that am not a mechanic, but not stupid either....am working on it. There's a wire in the wrong place somewhere. Perseverance is the secret. The ohm readings was what I was looking for. I have a doubt about the D- side of the brushes. That is mounted without any insulated washers to put to ground....do I need to have a wire to the engine block ?
Some models had a wire and others just ran the ground through the stator body so if you are getting continuity at the regulator between the leads DF & D- it should be fine.
This is the one area where my bike lift falls down. It's a rail system which makes turning the front wheel sideways near on impossible without a lot of effort. On the upside access to the rest of the bike is good.
The manual doesn't specify the torque setting for this but it does give general settings. I can't recall the bolt size but it will probably be one of these: 6mm bolts 4.5 - 8 ft/lb 8mm bolts 16 - 21 ft/lb
Thanks, Mike! I was looking for a method to remove the alternator rotor securing bolt on my small block, as I already have the clutch and flywheel removed. Using a pin through the small end - should’ve thought of it myself!
Just like a BMW airhead /5 and /6! same alternator. Great videos Mike. Keep them coming
Hi, I have got my V35 Imola on the side stand and got First gear in it. But the Alternator is Still Spinning with the Engine. How is that possible with both tires on Road and First gear? How can I Block it? The Bike is Not disassambled. Could you please advise?
Really great video, thank you. What size is that machined bolt you used to take the rotor winding off please? And how much of that should be machined off? Thanks!
The bolt is a hi tensile M8 (same thread as the alternator bolt) with the bottom 36mm machined off. You can also use a hardened pin with the alternator bolt. Simply tension the bolt and tap it with a hammer to release the rotor from the tapered shaft.
@@MikesMachines Super appreciated Mike, thanks so much!
Great video thanks. would you know what the taper angle is? I measured it at 10 deg but I'd like to get confirmation.
Sorry but I don't know what the taper angle is.
muchas gracias por toda la informscion
Hi great vid. I am looking to buy stator coil for 650 and can’t find anywhere any tips where can get?
The stator part number is a Bosch 0120340002. Try Guzibits & MG Cycle.
www.gutsibits.co.uk
www.mgcycle.com
Having changed the rotor on the alternator of my 850 T3 , am still having battery charging problems. Am starting to doubt the stator. Though the circuit is complete on the three phases, am getting a reading of .8 ohms between the three phases with what is supposed to be a modern digital multimeter . Is that reading good or bad ? What seriously appreciate your help Mike as am going round in circles trying to find the problem !
Hi Clive,
I’m not an expert in this area but I hope this helps...
The stator should show roughly .6 ohms between the three phase windings. Again there should be no connection to ground. From experience I’ve found that cheap multimeters often don’t give an accurate reading at this end of the scale but any reading should be ok so long as it isn’t shorted to ground.
The Rotor should show roughly 3 ohms between the slip rings. There should be no connection to ground. You should also check that the brushes are making a good contact with the slip rings.
Also clean the connectors in the charging circuit and check that the wiring harness to the rectifier and regulator is ok with a multimeter.
The charge light should light up when the ignition is turned on and go out when the engine is revved above idle. If the alternator is charging properly the measured voltage at the battery should be over 13 volts. If you are getting just over 12 volts, the problem is probably with either the voltage regulator or rectifier.
The regulator can be bypassed to check the rest of the charging circuit and the rectifier can be tested with a multimeter but it’s a bit complex to explain here. It might be easier to get them checked by an auto electrician if you suspect them. Whilst replacement rectifiers are expensive, compatible electronic regulators are cheap.
@@MikesMachines Thanks a lot for your comprehensive reply Mike. I'm on my third Guzzi, V50 II, GT1000 both of which were brilliant, but I did not make a good investment in this 850 T3 even though I love the bike. I had the whole electrical circuit redone by a "professional "Guzzi specialist who equipped it with electronic ignition . That worked fine for a year and a half, and then started playing up. After much sweat and irritation it turned out that the electronic ignition bloc had been attached to the frame with a metal ring, and the vibrations caused wearing and it ended up shorting out with the frame. The bike would start, work for 15 minutes and then stop...impossible to restart. The guy who did the job had since disappeared. Found some young lads to redo the electronic ignition, which they did, but following that the battery charge light stays on. With the age of the machine I accused the alternator and changed the rotor and brushes. No change. After much research I realized there is quite a complex washer system on the brushes to insulate the DF side and put the D- to ground. But even with that done am still not getting voltage coming out of the stator let alone anywhere else. You will have gathered that am not a mechanic, but not stupid either....am working on it. There's a wire in the wrong place somewhere. Perseverance is the secret. The ohm readings was what I was looking for. I have a doubt about the D- side of the brushes. That is mounted without any insulated washers to put to ground....do I need to have a wire to the engine block ?
Some models had a wire and others just ran the ground through the stator body so if you are getting continuity at the regulator between the leads DF & D- it should be fine.
I believe i was able to turn my handlebars to gain clearance. Although i had already removed my mud guard.
This is the one area where my bike lift falls down. It's a rail system which makes turning the front wheel sideways near on impossible without a lot of effort. On the upside access to the rest of the bike is good.
Great Video Thanks... but what is the torque spec for the bolt for re installing? Thanks
The manual doesn't specify the torque setting for this but it does give general settings. I can't recall the bolt size but it will probably be one of these:
6mm bolts 4.5 - 8 ft/lb
8mm bolts 16 - 21 ft/lb