Dear Mike, I made a replica of your chisel tool but no joy. Then I thought of something! An air chisel with a pointed chisel and it was undone in a flash with NO NUT damage. I hope this may be of help to others. Basically impact gun works a treat.
Good video. You mentioned the two woodruff keys, one on the crank one on the oil pump. Having done this job a few times I'll add that I cover the oil drain holes in the bottom of timing chest before removing the sprockets or gears, whichever the case, as with my luck, a key will fall free and down into the sump, adding more work and requiring a second jack to support the lump under the transmission while the sump is removed.
I live in the US in Kentucky, and have picked up a 74 ElDorado frame & motor block ,and will be building it up and back into a rideable bike ! I look forwarded to learning from ya Pard !
Mike, wee tip that may help, use a couple of cable ties around the sprockets / chain to fix the timing marks so that if it gets disturbed on the bench it cant move
Mike, yes I suspect your right I have one of those cheap tools off eBay and i rattled gun the nut off now problem. I left the bike out of gear, just let the gun do the work. Loved how easy the engine bolt came out.
Hi Mike, you did it basically the right way, I guess the eBay crappy wrench responsible for the failure. When I did this on my lm3 I screwed in a bolt and a washer into the crankshaft end (once the wrench was engaged). That way the bolt + washer prevented the tube wrench from skipping out of the vanes of the crown nut. This is actually the only thing that I did different that time. Thumbs up for you!
I had a nightmare with an LM2 front engine bolt in the early 80's. A few winters on salted roads had corroded it into place. It would not rotate let alone drive out. I tried soaking in lubricant, heat, as much force as I could physically put on a huge home-made breaker bar, and a borrowed impact driver. It did not budge even slightly and I was out of ideas. Fortunately, the job was clutch replacement and the frame was able to hinge open around the stuck bolt, leaving the gearbox clear. Don't know what I would have done if the front bolt really needed to come out.
Excellent help thanks very much. I just need to remove the crankshaft nut, otherwise my approach was similar to that of yours. All the best. Buon lavoro.
I needed a very deep socket to get the nut off the crankshaft. I bought the correct size socket, A cheap one, because I was going to modify it and only use it about once every couple years if that..I cut it in half, and added 2 inches of pipe in the center of the socket to make the socket long enough to fit over the end of the crankshaft
@@MikesMachines Thanks! When changing the oil/filter I have found bits of a light brown material in the pan, not metallic. Also I hear a slight jingling noise at idle. I’m thinking its the tensioner.
Dear Mike, I made a replica of your chisel tool but no joy. Then I thought of something! An air chisel with a pointed chisel and it was undone in a flash with NO NUT damage.
I hope this may be of help to others.
Basically impact gun works a treat.
Good video. You mentioned the two woodruff keys, one on the crank one on the oil pump. Having done this job a few times I'll add that I cover the oil drain holes in the bottom of timing chest before removing the sprockets or gears, whichever the case, as with my luck, a key will fall free and down into the sump, adding more work and requiring a second jack to support the lump under the transmission while the sump is removed.
I live in the US in Kentucky, and have picked up a 74 ElDorado frame & motor block ,and will be building it up and back into a rideable bike ! I look forwarded to learning from ya Pard !
Mike, wee tip that may help, use a couple of cable ties around the sprockets / chain to fix the timing marks so that if it gets disturbed on the bench it cant move
It didn't show in the video but I did just that. I probably should have mentioned it so thanks for the comment.
Mike, yes I suspect your right I have one of those cheap tools off eBay and i rattled gun the nut off now problem. I left the bike out of gear, just let the gun do the work.
Loved how easy the engine bolt came out.
Hi Mike, you did it basically the right way, I guess the eBay crappy wrench responsible for the failure.
When I did this on my lm3 I screwed in a bolt and a washer into the crankshaft end (once the wrench was engaged). That way the bolt + washer prevented the tube wrench from skipping out of the vanes of the crown nut.
This is actually the only thing that I did different that time.
Thumbs up for you!
Nice idea!
I had a nightmare with an LM2 front engine bolt in the early 80's. A few winters on salted roads had corroded it into place. It would not rotate let alone drive out. I tried soaking in lubricant, heat, as much force as I could physically put on a huge home-made breaker bar, and a borrowed impact driver. It did not budge even slightly and I was out of ideas. Fortunately, the job was clutch replacement and the frame was able to hinge open around the stuck bolt, leaving the gearbox clear. Don't know what I would have done if the front bolt really needed to come out.
very helpful, well done, thank you
Excellent help thanks very much. I just need to remove the crankshaft nut, otherwise my approach was similar to that of yours. All the best. Buon lavoro.
I slip a piece of tubing with an ID the same as the socket OD over it to keep it centred on the nut. Looks the same as the Stein Dinse when in use.
Good tip!
I needed a very deep socket to get the nut off the crankshaft. I bought the correct size socket, A cheap one, because I was going to modify it and only use it about once every couple years if that..I cut it in half, and added 2 inches of pipe in the center of the socket to make the socket long enough to fit over the end of the crankshaft
Thanks for showing 👍
nicely done
Nice work very helpful thank you sir.
Good clear videos. Is it possible to replace the tensioner without removing the chain?
No not really. With the later spring loaded tensioners it's best to remove the chain and sprockets first.
@@MikesMachines Thanks! When changing the oil/filter I have found bits of a light brown material in the pan, not metallic. Also I hear a slight jingling noise at idle. I’m thinking its the tensioner.
Some gorilla has tightened the crankshaft nut. Doesn’t know what a torque wrench is!
Thanks. Very helpful.
Warm nut with blow lamp or even pore boiling water great video though