Hi! Nice vid, I like how you've organized your thoughts here but... You can not gravity-bleed F10s. You must use ISTA+ or OBDII tool that has the brake-bleed and e-brake functions. Disengaging the E-brake in the cabin will not provide enough clearance. You have two choices: Option 1: Use ISTA+ or OBDII tool (DO THIS!) Option 2: Take great care here, I do not recommend this: Triple square bit or E-Type Torx (I think they are size 30/40? don't quote me). Manually wind the e-brake motor until it stops. Mind the boot, be careful when reassembling. No matter which you choose, next time you activate the E-Brake you will hear the motors whine longer as it calibrates its "stop" position. Follow the prompts in Option 1 and you'll be done in 20 minutes. Even faster if all 4 corners are off the ground. Good luck.
My brake pedal get hard on the morning sometimes ... like 1 time monthly . My fuild is 3 or 4 years old .. should i use this method ? I need 100% ista after this or ? Thank you
1. Brake fluid flush time is a good time to check brake pad thickness. The radial groove on the pad should be visible, if not it's time for new pads. 2. What almost all fluid change videos miss is that the caliper is full of fluid and simply pumping fluid through it, or sucking it through, may not fully replace fluid in the caliper. Do accomplish that, push the brake pads and caliper pistons to the full retract position and place something between the pads to keep them far apart. The proceed as usual; remove the spacer when done. 3. Do not forget to top up the master cylinder fluid reservoir after bleeding each wheel.
Hi, please note that there will be residual fluid in the ABS pump which requires ISTA (BMW Dealer specific software) to purge
Hi! Nice vid, I like how you've organized your thoughts here but...
You can not gravity-bleed F10s. You must use ISTA+ or OBDII tool that has the brake-bleed and e-brake functions.
Disengaging the E-brake in the cabin will not provide enough clearance. You have two choices:
Option 1: Use ISTA+ or OBDII tool (DO THIS!)
Option 2: Take great care here, I do not recommend this: Triple square bit or E-Type Torx (I think they are size 30/40? don't quote me). Manually wind the e-brake motor until it stops. Mind the boot, be careful when reassembling.
No matter which you choose, next time you activate the E-Brake you will hear the motors whine longer as it calibrates its "stop" position.
Follow the prompts in Option 1 and you'll be done in 20 minutes. Even faster if all 4 corners are off the ground. Good luck.
Thanks for the tips! Is there an OBD2 scanner you would recommend that has this functionality? I've heard Foxwell 530 but not sure
Vibrating when braking
Wheel tightening is 140 Nm. And not 130Nm.
Thanks I have no idea what I’m doing on this BMW😅😅
Did you put the cap back on tightly before you pumped the pedal? Otherwise how was it keeping pressure?
Bravos. Thanks.
My brake pedal get hard on the morning sometimes ... like 1 time monthly . My fuild is 3 or 4 years old .. should i use this method ? I need 100% ista after this or ? Thank you
1. Brake fluid flush time is a good time to check brake pad thickness. The radial groove on the pad should be visible, if not it's time for new pads.
2. What almost all fluid change videos miss is that the caliper is full of fluid and simply pumping fluid through it, or sucking it through, may not fully replace fluid in the caliper. Do accomplish that, push the brake pads and caliper pistons to the full retract position and place something between the pads to keep them far apart. The proceed as usual; remove the spacer when done.
3. Do not forget to top up the master cylinder fluid reservoir after bleeding each wheel.
We're is the max and min mark on the f10 resovoir????
Great info..thx
Blabla blabla.