that explanation of how matte PLA will look better before you paint/primer it because of how the light reflects is so helpful. tyvm for all your videos, you have saved me so much time in fails.
It's crazy to think how far we've come when it comes to print quality. You used to have to have specific settings for basically each one of your printers but now you can just slice and send without tuning at all on many printers.
I have a Bambu P1S. I've only been printing for a little over 3 months and this machine, and Bambu Studio, makes me look like I've been at it for years! The only things I adjust are the walls, infill %, and speed. Now when I change to ABS or PETG i adjust temps after doing a temp tower but that is it. I've used auto supports and it's never let me down. I also have the A1 Mini and it's speed is crazy. I use it for actually making bulk items like Ikea Skadis parts. Simply because I can print them so fast and still with amazing quality. Thank you for this video. If anything, it reassured me that there isn't settings that I'm missing out on!
@@MrKnightFanLate response but the P1S does have many advantages such as the auxiliary fan, im not sure of all them but the p1s does have a good amount of improvements.
I remember the "good" old days when I first started with 3d printing about 12-13 years ago. Slicing something would take absolute aaages. It wasn't uncommon for me to have to wait 15-20 minutes for a single model. So you really wanted to make sure you had every setting nailed or you'd be wasting a ton of time just because you messed something up. Slicers today are just amazing by comparison.
Biggest thing here is modern slicers making use of multiple CPU threads and the multi core upgrades and speed of current even low budget offerings. 3D printing has come a long way but the software has come even further IMO with CPU hardware uplift and improvements. Not enough emphasis has been placed on using modern PC hardware in the 3D print space.
Great video! Solid advice for newbies, and good reminders for people who have a few more prints under their belts! 'm looking forward to starting my Mk. 46 cosplay under your series guidance 🙏
In Bambu Studio, I've changed to Arachne vs Classic and wall generation to inner/outer/inner. To get your supports to release a little better you can experiment with the Z distance for supports. I increase it from .2 to between .25 and .27 as I print a lot of PETG, ABS, and nylon. Another tip is that if you can't orient your print optimally, use the cut function to separate it into sections that can be oriented better to optimize quality. MEK can be used to chemically melt PETG, ASA, ABS, and styrene creating a permanent bond unlike CA glue. It can even fix areas where there may be some layer adhesion issues. Since I post process and paint most parts I print, the glue lines are filled and smoothed.
I literally am about to get my first 3D printer in a couple days and heard about your opinion on Orca so I hope you'd get a settings video out on it and here it is, perfect timing. Thank you!!
This video actually helped a lot with my Neptune 3 Max. Ive been diving into calibrations in Orca and spent hours online trying to figure out why my prints were coming out like garbage. I was thinking because its a newer printer and has the capability of going faster than my Ender 3 it should do so...... when in doubt, slow it down lol.
Started on a Anycubic Kossel back in 2016, and after a few different printers bought a P1S. I've been absolutely blown away by the quality and speed this current generation of printers has to offer. Hope to see a full Halo suit, I'm just about finished with mine!
Im such a fan of these types of videos. when I got a 3d printer, just to goof around with, I had friends aske me if I could make some stuff for them. started off as small things like stands, or some organizers. After a year Its turned into props, some art idea, hell even some marketing things for a few friends business. When I wonder if something is do-able, I just wander over to this channel and see what I can learn, between that and a few buddies who as run a printer or two, we figure it out. Thanks for the education, I feel like when I come here, I dont just learn what to do, but why you do it in a particular way, and knowing why is about 90% of whats important.
Apart of my "no sand 2024" setup, Ive been using the following: Proper orientation .16 LH Adaptive layers Outer to inner wall sequence Organic supports That's it. I've not had to sand any of my prints on both the bambu's and the Neptunes. Prime and paint and I'm all done.
I've been using the 0.08 height on my P1S with otherwise default settings and the quality has been stunning. Did a test paint job on one of the pieces and with a single coat of filler primer and paint the end result is fantastic. Been trying to avoid having rounded edges on the top layers of the print because they end up leaving massive layer lines, but other than that it's pretty much spot on.
@@BinaryHe1ixwhat kind of things are you printing? Props? I’m trying to see if upping the quality would help with sanding less for things like helmets and masks, etc
hey Frank, i'm a fan, wanted to give you a tip on scaling helmets: on blender i took 2 photos of my face, front and side, put them on blender with a uv sphere, and adjust the vertices, so far y made one in 30min-ish. rating 5-6/10, but it will give you an idea of the shape of your head
Hey Frank just wanted to let you know how much I love your videos and to thank you for getting me into this hobby and inspiring me to build my own iron man suit keep up the amazing work and awesome vids
Good video! The matte PLA.... order some and print with'em. You can see every layer line and every little print defect! Although the look is gorgeous! You gave the right explanation for the silk filaments hiding layerlines, but for matte you mixed stuff up. The matte PLA does not reflect very much light, so the reason silk is hiding stuff is the same reason matte isn't. Keep on doing these great content!
10 minutes into the video, I'm like, "I'd love to see you print some of the daggers from Solo Leveling", cause i just pulled my first one off the build plate, and damn, you did not disappoint!!
As someone who is brand new to printing this was a big help. I’m in the works on a dark magician cosplay and currently printing the staff. I printed out the orb part of the staff today and my idea was to use it as a mold for clear Worbla. Thinking that it would be see-through for LED’s. Then I saw your video about making them transparent and it surely stopped me in my tracks. literally screamed….YOU CAN MAKE THEM TRANSPARENT!?!?😓 You’re sooo helpful and I really enjoy your videos.
With my bambu P1S the profiles are usually very good but also good to see what you do 😊 Some new filaments I also do a calibration/new profile depending on filament e.g. Overture matte or eSun HS-PLA. Will have a look at Sunlu next, you get really good results from it 😊
Just found your channel and this video. You might try Ender & Creality filament. I get NO layer lines, and filament was the only thing I changed. The filament composition does make a difference. Seriously, give them a try. Ender pla is a great price, I even use Ender ASA. Good price and excellent surfaces w/o layer lines.
@@sahhull I get great prints with Elegoo. I have a Bambu X-1c. I use the smooth plate. The plates are marked PLA and on the reverse all the higher temp filament. After each print I clean with IPA. Always sticks.
I love 3d printing, and I’m a huge fan of what you do. Your videos walked me through my iron man helmet and continue to help me with all kinds of stuff. I have a question though, do you use other people’s files for everything or do you design it yourself?
Print orientation is such a big deal in getting high quality prints. My new PRUSA XL print quality is just amazing and I've have. PRUSA Mark 3 i3S for the last 3 years. I know its kinda outrageously expensive but seeing it do a multi filament print with no waste and near instant filament changes is amazing
Hey frank! I love your videos and I finally came around to getting some stuff printed and I’m loving it! I just wanted to ask if you remember what the qualities were that you printed those last two armor looks my pieces at? Thanks!
Thanks for this video! I just got my first 3D printer which is an Anycubic Kobra Neo and using PLA+ filament with the Cura program. I did a couple small pieces that were super simple to print before I got into a piece that's a bit larger. This is where I'm running into problems. With the first print, I ran into issues with being able to remove the supports after it was finished. I decided to try it again but use a different style of support. I used tree the first time and just normal the second time. It's still printing right now and I'm nervous I will still have problems removing the supports from the main print. Do you have any suggestions?
Great video. Just wish I watched it before I printed my Clone Trooper helmet. I printed the back two quarters standing up at the same time. The print head knocked them loose and they fell to the floor at 98%. Obviously (as you said), I should have slowed down the print towards the top (bed slinging Prusa Mk4). As I contemplated reprinting them differently, I realized I could just slice off the part that was missed, print that and just glue it onto already printed part. I did that and it worked great. Hardly noticeable after the finishing work. Will look into these tips next print. Thank you!
Hey Frank, you were the biggest influence on my decision choice when purchasing my first 3D Printer. I chose the Neptune 3 Max for my first printer…funny thing happened once I got my printer. Elegoo launched the Neptune 4 Max shortly after I got mine. I had a huge print volume, then after getting an Ender 3 V2, and a Voxelab Aquila with is just an Ender 3 V2 clone, I went for speed. I got a FLSUN V400. Which is why I’m making this comment…you didn’t mention Delta style. I try my best to orient my parts as best I can, do you have any suggestions for better quality for a Delta style printer?
I've been having problems with my Ender 3 v2. I keep having prints come off the plate when it gets near the end. Idk why I didn't realize the thing about the bed slinging front and back. So I slowed my current print which is halfway done. Down to 75%. Hope that is slow enough for the rest of the print. When it gets taller I might slow it down to 50%. Trying to print off some armor from the house of the Dragons for ren fair. Its the king's guard armor. It looks so sick. Trying to print the arm pieces. I split it in two to print on the ender 3. The first part failed near the end. So I'm trying part two right now. If part two comes out fine. I'll try part one again with the same speed changes.
My Ender 3 v2 neo printer has been acting up for some time even though it's fairly new, but just a couple weeks ago, it completely stopped moving. Is there anything I can do to fix this?
Frank, i was wondering with your camo Iron Man helmet ,how did you get the black and grey on it so perfectly? Did you use a stencil or did you hand paint it?
What filament do you use? I order mine from Bambu Labs but I takes a while to get ship to me so I am looking for another good affordable brand that I can get quicker
Ive just ordered a K1 Max, funny enough i run your pri t settings on my Ender 3 Max for cosplay helmets. (Works Great). Do you have specific settings for Helmets or just run standard settings and adjust the infill? Any info would be great to get before taking delivery.
Do you have any tips on how to smooth a 3D print with a lot of details and hard to reach places? Or is it just smooth right off of the printer? Also, I am in the market for a new printer and was considering the Bambu Lab A1, would you recommend that for super smooth prints, or should I get the P1S?
Hey very interested on your opinion if i wanted to do a whole master chief outfit eould a creality k1 max be fine to do it all i kniw there bigger printers but space is a factor for myself at the moment any advice be much appreciated and Keep on print grinding
Hey Frank. Shot in the dark but, I have a JGmaker magic and have issues with using it. Upgrades and settings are hard to find, could I use ender 3 guides to help my prints? Tried upgrading to a glass plate and since then can't get my prints to stick or finish completely. Great video.
Any chance you want to do an updated version of your “how to attach pieces together” video with links? I watched the one from 3 years ago I think and was wondering if you have newer techniques or products.
It's about thinking, trial and error and analysis on what the problem is and why it's happening. Figuring this stuff out this way takes longer but ultimately will make you a better printer rat. Look at it like a math problem that needs to be solved. Then when all else fails, youtube and reddit lol the answers are out there. Good luck everyone!
How do u clean the bed? I occasionally have adhesion issues after a while without cleaning it. Soap and water and then an alcohol wipe. Also how does ur z offset look? I squish mine probably a bit too much but I’d always rather some elephant foot rather than the print dislodging
@@ChezzzyKid1234well the other two printers I’ve used, I didn’t have to use glue but for some reason I just can’t get the print to stay on the bed with my Neptune
I’d love to see if you’ve done any calibration for your filament on the K1Max. Before the latest firmware update, it would seem like I’d spend about an hour running all sorts of calibration tests to dial in the printer for extrusion flow rates and whatnot and bypass the auto calibration on my k1Max. With the latest firmware that seems to be somewhat mitigated but would be interested seeing what you do there.
I've recently started using Orca slicer for my K1, and for whatever reason the prints will often stop extruding before it finishes the first layer. This has only been happening with the Orca slicer, and it seems to work with Creality Print just fine. However, I wanna use Orca since it can provide much better quality than Creality Print. I tried to research solutions to my issue, but there was almost nothing about it. I tried switching from the standard brass 0.4mm nozzle to a steel 0.6mm nozzle, and that seemed to work for awhile. But now my prints are continuing to fail. I was wondering if you had experienced this issue and know how to solve it, or just had any recommendations on what I should do about it.
Hi, we've tried printing an articulating dragon files from thingiverse several times on our creality K1 Max we sliced it in orca with no supports but every time we try to print it the printer stops on the first layer. The nozzle is not clogged the filament just stops coming out. This has happened on several other articulating dragon files, and now we can’t get a single print now it’s happening on other prints too any idea what’s happening
Hi Frank you have been my inspiration for about 3 years and now I wanna buy my first 3d printer for helmets props maybe some smaller things idk and I was thinking about the Elegoo neptune 4 plus but now I saw the new ender 3 V3 and idk which one is better could you please tell me or if you know another one in that price range please let me know because I want to buy it this month.❤
Hi FB, Would it be possible for you to upload your config files to your Patreon ? I am mainly looking for Neptune 3 max 0.6mm and 0.8mm settings but have a range of printers that could be beneficial. I have picked up a lot using your videos but working out where a profile has gone wrong seems to be an issue, my K1 with a 0.6 is currently out of action as I seem to have really messed that up with constant jams now, thought it was the printer at first until I moved onto my 3rd extruder and it still didn’t work 😅 As usual good video ! Thanks
Hey! I don’t have config files. I show exactly what I do in this video. Just use the stock profiles and only change infil and supports. The more you mess with the worse it will be.
I have a longer lk5 pro, and over 2k hours of printing on it, it works fine other than the face that it doesnt lift up the right hight first few layers, causing what i though for tge longest time was elephants foot. Still never found a fix for this other than the fact that printing with rafts gets rid of it. Anyone have a simular issue?
Hey there I had a question I never see you have a Sonic pad on your CR-M4 or your elegoo Neptune 3 Max just curious why is that don’t you want your prints to be done faster
What about delta printers? I have a love hate relationship with mine at the moment. When it works it's great but recently it's decided to foul the initial layers, no matter what settings I tweak, so I'm now unsure if it's a hardware issue but not sure where to start
Hey Frank, Please read this. I am trying to create a daft punk helmet. The printer I am working with is in a library and I need some advice to get started. I know the basics but I don’t have the skills or knowledge for actual printing. I need a personal boost.
It looks like you left something out with the CoreXY Printer style which should be mentioned imo. While the bed only moves up and down it Does bounce ever so slightly up and down While printing. If you watch them closely as they print you can usually see it happen which is why, I assume, so many people complain about certain prints not doing so well on them.
@@astrophysicistguy I just realized what I was talking about is the Z-Hop. Sometimes forget the way Z-Hop works on CoreXY is different from Bed Slingers, or beds that don't move at all.
that explanation of how matte PLA will look better before you paint/primer it because of how the light reflects is so helpful. tyvm for all your videos, you have saved me so much time in fails.
It's crazy to think how far we've come when it comes to print quality. You used to have to have specific settings for basically each one of your printers but now you can just slice and send without tuning at all on many printers.
We are in the golden age of 3d printers. I absolutely love my P1S as it blows me away every single print.
I have a Bambu P1S. I've only been printing for a little over 3 months and this machine, and Bambu Studio, makes me look like I've been at it for years!
The only things I adjust are the walls, infill %, and speed. Now when I change to ABS or PETG i adjust temps after doing a temp tower but that is it.
I've used auto supports and it's never let me down.
I also have the A1 Mini and it's speed is crazy. I use it for actually making bulk items like Ikea Skadis parts. Simply because I can print them so fast and still with amazing quality.
Thank you for this video. If anything, it reassured me that there isn't settings that I'm missing out on!
So the answer is get a P1S printer.
P1p is cheaper and just doesn’t have the walls, but you can get some
@@MrKnightFanLate response but the P1S does have many advantages such as the auxiliary fan, im not sure of all them but the p1s does have a good amount of improvements.
My Flashforge 5M gives my P1S tough competition for quality prints minus the AMS.
I remember the "good" old days when I first started with 3d printing about 12-13 years ago. Slicing something would take absolute aaages. It wasn't uncommon for me to have to wait 15-20 minutes for a single model. So you really wanted to make sure you had every setting nailed or you'd be wasting a ton of time just because you messed something up. Slicers today are just amazing by comparison.
Biggest thing here is modern slicers making use of multiple CPU threads and the multi core upgrades and speed of current even low budget offerings.
3D printing has come a long way but the software has come even further IMO with CPU hardware uplift and improvements.
Not enough emphasis has been placed on using modern PC hardware in the 3D print space.
Great video! Solid advice for newbies, and good reminders for people who have a few more prints under their belts!
'm looking forward to starting my Mk. 46 cosplay under your series guidance
🙏
In Bambu Studio, I've changed to Arachne vs Classic and wall generation to inner/outer/inner. To get your supports to release a little better you can experiment with the Z distance for supports. I increase it from .2 to between .25 and .27 as I print a lot of PETG, ABS, and nylon. Another tip is that if you can't orient your print optimally, use the cut function to separate it into sections that can be oriented better to optimize quality. MEK can be used to chemically melt PETG, ASA, ABS, and styrene creating a permanent bond unlike CA glue. It can even fix areas where there may be some layer adhesion issues. Since I post process and paint most parts I print, the glue lines are filled and smoothed.
I literally am about to get my first 3D printer in a couple days and heard about your opinion on Orca so I hope you'd get a settings video out on it and here it is, perfect timing. Thank you!!
As a noob... I NEEDED THIS! Much appreciated Frank!!!
Been modeling for a long time now but 3d printing is still new to me. This video helped me a ton! Great work 👍
Just got my P1S! Cant wait to start printing cosplay pieces! Your channel is a godsend for someone like me that’s new to 3D printing 🙏
This video actually helped a lot with my Neptune 3 Max. Ive been diving into calibrations in Orca and spent hours online trying to figure out why my prints were coming out like garbage. I was thinking because its a newer printer and has the capability of going faster than my Ender 3 it should do so...... when in doubt, slow it down lol.
Started on a Anycubic Kossel back in 2016, and after a few different printers bought a P1S. I've been absolutely blown away by the quality and speed this current generation of printers has to offer. Hope to see a full Halo suit, I'm just about finished with mine!
Im such a fan of these types of videos. when I got a 3d printer, just to goof around with, I had friends aske me if I could make some stuff for them. started off as small things like stands, or some organizers. After a year Its turned into props, some art idea, hell even some marketing things for a few friends business. When I wonder if something is do-able, I just wander over to this channel and see what I can learn, between that and a few buddies who as run a printer or two, we figure it out. Thanks for the education, I feel like when I come here, I dont just learn what to do, but why you do it in a particular way, and knowing why is about 90% of whats important.
Apart of my "no sand 2024" setup, Ive been using the following:
Proper orientation
.16 LH
Adaptive layers
Outer to inner wall sequence
Organic supports
That's it. I've not had to sand any of my prints on both the bambu's and the Neptunes.
Prime and paint and I'm all done.
What about speeds? Standard?
I've been using the 0.08 height on my P1S with otherwise default settings and the quality has been stunning. Did a test paint job on one of the pieces and with a single coat of filler primer and paint the end result is fantastic. Been trying to avoid having rounded edges on the top layers of the print because they end up leaving massive layer lines, but other than that it's pretty much spot on.
@@dakonx7049 standard X1C/A1 speeds for the Bambu
250mm for the Neptune 4 max
@@deadlyapollo alr alr, i got a p1 so ill give it a try, thanks
@@BinaryHe1ixwhat kind of things are you printing? Props? I’m trying to see if upping the quality would help with sanding less for things like helmets and masks, etc
Thank you for making awesome videos! You are the best ❤
hey Frank, i'm a fan, wanted to give you a tip on scaling helmets: on blender i took 2 photos of my face, front and side, put them on blender with a uv sphere, and adjust the vertices, so far y made one in 30min-ish. rating 5-6/10, but it will give you an idea of the shape of your head
Hey Frank just wanted to let you know how much I love your videos and to thank you for getting me into this hobby and inspiring me to build my own iron man suit keep up the amazing work and awesome vids
Can't wait to see the solo leveling dagger video I really wanna make those myself
Good video! The matte PLA.... order some and print with'em. You can see every layer line and every little print defect! Although the look is gorgeous!
You gave the right explanation for the silk filaments hiding layerlines, but for matte you mixed stuff up. The matte PLA does not reflect very much light, so the reason silk is hiding stuff is the same reason matte isn't.
Keep on doing these great content!
That’s weird bc the elegoo matte PLA I use hides later lines fantastically.
10 minutes into the video, I'm like, "I'd love to see you print some of the daggers from Solo Leveling", cause i just pulled my first one off the build plate, and damn, you did not disappoint!!
Devil’s fruit looks awesome! What filament did you use?
My man. I’ve been waiting for this. Thank you!
As someone who is brand new to printing this was a big help.
I’m in the works on a dark magician cosplay and currently printing the staff.
I printed out the orb part of the staff today and my idea was to use it as a mold for clear Worbla. Thinking that it would be see-through for LED’s. Then I saw your video about making them transparent and it surely stopped me in my tracks. literally screamed….YOU CAN MAKE THEM TRANSPARENT!?!?😓
You’re sooo helpful and I really enjoy your videos.
Thanks Frank another good bit of info on orca 👍👍👍
Frank I remember the day when you would say, Figure it out for yourself LOL. Love the vlogs
Just discovered the channel it's really good to subscribed!
I love to see printing comparison specially in 2024!
have a great day!
As always great information brother!!! Love your content and will always share your thoughts and opinions with someone getting into the hobby!
Frankly the goat saving our life once again
Just got a refurbished Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo, still figuring out settings but I’m enjoying the hobby so far!
Just got my X1C and its crazy how the print quality is at those speeds!!! GREAT VIDEO. 🔥🔥
W frankly built. You encouraged me to buy ANOTHER printer!
With my bambu P1S the profiles are usually very good but also good to see what you do 😊 Some new filaments I also do a calibration/new profile depending on filament e.g. Overture matte or eSun HS-PLA. Will have a look at Sunlu next, you get really good results from it 😊
Just bought a K1 max AI , can't wait to start printing.
Master chief Helmet tutorial please!!!
!Love the vids!
Just found your channel and this video. You might try Ender & Creality filament. I get NO layer lines, and filament was the only thing I changed. The filament composition does make a difference. Seriously, give them a try. Ender pla is a great price, I even use Ender ASA. Good price and excellent surfaces w/o layer lines.
I've got an Ender3 S1 Pro.
Creality filament peels off the bed. I just can't get it to stick.
So I use Sunlu, Geeetech or Elegoo filament.
@@sahhull I get great prints with Elegoo. I have a Bambu X-1c. I use the smooth plate. The plates are marked PLA and on the reverse all the higher temp filament. After each print I clean with IPA. Always sticks.
I love 3d printing, and I’m a huge fan of what you do. Your videos walked me through my iron man helmet and continue to help me with all kinds of stuff. I have a question though, do you use other people’s files for everything or do you design it yourself?
What brand of filament is your go to? Do you prefer different brands for like silk vs regular pla for example?
Print orientation is such a big deal in getting high quality prints. My new PRUSA XL print quality is just amazing and I've have. PRUSA Mark 3 i3S for the last 3 years. I know its kinda outrageously expensive but seeing it do a multi filament print with no waste and near instant filament changes is amazing
Was the Cura Mew set to 20.5 % infill compared to the Orca Mew at 5% that would create a difference in print time, or am i not seeing it correctly ?
Hey frank! I love your videos and I finally came around to getting some stuff printed and I’m loving it! I just wanted to ask if you remember what the qualities were that you printed those last two armor looks my pieces at? Thanks!
do you still use z hop feature in orca? If so what settings do you have it set to?
do you have any videos going throught the elegoo slicers, been a resin monkey for years, brand new to fiiment printers and the slicer
Thanks for this video! I just got my first 3D printer which is an Anycubic Kobra Neo and using PLA+ filament with the Cura program. I did a couple small pieces that were super simple to print before I got into a piece that's a bit larger. This is where I'm running into problems. With the first print, I ran into issues with being able to remove the supports after it was finished. I decided to try it again but use a different style of support. I used tree the first time and just normal the second time. It's still printing right now and I'm nervous I will still have problems removing the supports from the main print. Do you have any suggestions?
Second print didn't work out so well either. Seems that there's just too much support that I just can't get through or remove.
Great tutorial. Thanks
That’s pretty useful❤
Smooooth...just like a silka!
Great video! I absolutely need to know where you got that Solo Leveling STL!
Great video. Just wish I watched it before I printed my Clone Trooper helmet. I printed the back two quarters standing up at the same time. The print head knocked them loose and they fell to the floor at 98%. Obviously (as you said), I should have slowed down the print towards the top (bed slinging Prusa Mk4). As I contemplated reprinting them differently, I realized I could just slice off the part that was missed, print that and just glue it onto already printed part. I did that and it worked great. Hardly noticeable after the finishing work. Will look into these tips next print. Thank you!
What is your opinion on Qidi q1 pro
I brought my first printer 3 weeks ago it hasnt stopped since
What websites do you use to download prints of what you want or do you even use them?
Hey Frank, you were the biggest influence on my decision choice when purchasing my first 3D Printer. I chose the Neptune 3 Max for my first printer…funny thing happened once I got my printer. Elegoo launched the Neptune 4 Max shortly after I got mine. I had a huge print volume, then after getting an Ender 3 V2, and a Voxelab Aquila with is just an Ender 3 V2 clone, I went for speed. I got a FLSUN V400. Which is why I’m making this comment…you didn’t mention Delta style.
I try my best to orient my parts as best I can, do you have any suggestions for better quality for a Delta style printer?
I printed the parts for a mk 42 iron man helmet. I was just wondering if you knew which crashworks motorization kit would be best for it.
Could you print smoothly on an enter 5 pro ?
I've been having problems with my Ender 3 v2. I keep having prints come off the plate when it gets near the end. Idk why I didn't realize the thing about the bed slinging front and back. So I slowed my current print which is halfway done. Down to 75%. Hope that is slow enough for the rest of the print. When it gets taller I might slow it down to 50%. Trying to print off some armor from the house of the Dragons for ren fair. Its the king's guard armor. It looks so sick. Trying to print the arm pieces. I split it in two to print on the ender 3. The first part failed near the end. So I'm trying part two right now. If part two comes out fine. I'll try part one again with the same speed changes.
My Ender 3 v2 neo printer has been acting up for some time even though it's fairly new, but just a couple weeks ago, it completely stopped moving. Is there anything I can do to fix this?
Frank, i was wondering with your camo Iron Man helmet ,how did you get the black and grey on it so perfectly? Did you use a stencil or did you hand paint it?
Vinyl cut stickers
What filament do you use? I order mine from Bambu Labs but I takes a while to get ship to me so I am looking for another good affordable brand that I can get quicker
Sunlu
Just wandering... how long and how much filament would it take to scan and print one of your dogs on your new printer? Just a thought.
Very recently got a Creality K1 Max and was wondering what’s the best program to use that I don’t have to make a profile of the printer for lol
Let's goooooo! Halo!
Ive just ordered a K1 Max, funny enough i run your pri t settings on my Ender 3 Max for cosplay helmets. (Works Great). Do you have specific settings for Helmets or just run standard settings and adjust the infill? Any info would be great to get before taking delivery.
Only problem to use orca is nozzel change when change nozzle to 0.6 the parameters still reamins of 0.4
Do you have any tips on how to smooth a 3D print with a lot of details and hard to reach places? Or is it just smooth right off of the printer? Also, I am in the market for a new printer and was considering the Bambu Lab A1, would you recommend that for super smooth prints, or should I get the P1S?
Small metal files and lots of sand paper. Or higher print quality
@@FranklyBuilt thanks a lot :)
What is your opinion on Outer to Inner or Inner to Outer ? Will be interested in diving into because i saw great results
Never messed with it
I been using my CR10-V2 and I'm still impressed with it. I do want to get a core X Y printer to test how fast I can get a helmet done.
Hey very interested on your opinion if i wanted to do a whole master chief outfit eould a creality k1 max be fine to do it all i kniw there bigger printers but space is a factor for myself at the moment any advice be much appreciated and Keep on print grinding
Hey Frank. Shot in the dark but, I have a JGmaker magic and have issues with using it. Upgrades and settings are hard to find, could I use ender 3 guides to help my prints? Tried upgrading to a glass plate and since then can't get my prints to stick or finish completely. Great video.
Any chance you want to do an updated version of your “how to attach pieces together” video with links? I watched the one from 3 years ago I think and was wondering if you have newer techniques or products.
how about comparing a .04 to .06 nozzle for speed vs detail when do things like helmets? Pleeze
I keep getting my silk pla stuck in my K1 max it's like it gets stuck in the Ptfe tube on the bottom or the extruder, how could I fix that?
First lets go frankly im a huge fan
It's about thinking, trial and error and analysis on what the problem is and why it's happening. Figuring this stuff out this way takes longer but ultimately will make you a better printer rat. Look at it like a math problem that needs to be solved. Then when all else fails, youtube and reddit lol the answers are out there. Good luck everyone!
What specs would you need for a resin curing uv flashlight, for repairing prints with resin
Ok so I have a question, I know you have a Neptune 3 plus and I’m curious, do you have to use a raft. I haven’t had a successful print without one
Sure if it works
How do u clean the bed? I occasionally have adhesion issues after a while without cleaning it. Soap and water and then an alcohol wipe. Also how does ur z offset look? I squish mine probably a bit too much but I’d always rather some elephant foot rather than the print dislodging
I stopped using glue, glue builds up in the ‘pores’ of your magnetic bed, creating a smooth surface. But hey, that’s me.
@@jonathonantonio1973So I do use soap and water but I don’t use alcohol wipes maybe that is the problem. Thank you for the advice!
@@ChezzzyKid1234well the other two printers I’ve used, I didn’t have to use glue but for some reason I just can’t get the print to stay on the bed with my Neptune
I’d love to see if you’ve done any calibration for your filament on the K1Max. Before the latest firmware update, it would seem like I’d spend about an hour running all sorts of calibration tests to dial in the printer for extrusion flow rates and whatnot and bypass the auto calibration on my k1Max. With the latest firmware that seems to be somewhat mitigated but would be interested seeing what you do there.
I don’t do any of that lol I just update it. Let it run its auto cal. And I print
When the next Ironman Series comes out bro ?
You should make a video about the Creality K1C to finish the k series
Where are you getting your devil fruit files?
What’s a good printer that can multicolor print that isn’t crazy expensive?
Bambu lab a1
@@FranklyBuilt do you think it’s worth it to get the p1s combo instead for a couple hundred more. For the encloser and the stable bed.
Anything that is tall and standing on my Bambu gets ringing. Bambu's LOVE to ring on prints.....
Can you please make the Firestorm shard blade from the storm light archives?
I've recently started using Orca slicer for my K1, and for whatever reason the prints will often stop extruding before it finishes the first layer. This has only been happening with the Orca slicer, and it seems to work with Creality Print just fine. However, I wanna use Orca since it can provide much better quality than Creality Print. I tried to research solutions to my issue, but there was almost nothing about it. I tried switching from the standard brass 0.4mm nozzle to a steel 0.6mm nozzle, and that seemed to work for awhile. But now my prints are continuing to fail. I was wondering if you had experienced this issue and know how to solve it, or just had any recommendations on what I should do about it.
Hi, we've tried printing an articulating dragon files from thingiverse several times on our creality K1 Max we sliced it in orca with no supports but every time we try to print it the printer stops on the first layer. The nozzle is not clogged the filament just stops coming out. This has happened on several other articulating dragon files, and now we can’t get a single print now it’s happening on other prints too any idea what’s happening
Was that Jinwoo venom dagger
he frank, how did you get your build plate to be black in orca??
No idea. It’s just like that
Hi Frank you have been my inspiration for about 3 years and now I wanna buy my first 3d printer for helmets props maybe some smaller things idk and I was thinking about the Elegoo neptune 4 plus but now I saw the new ender 3 V3 and idk which one is better could you please tell me or if you know another one in that price range please let me know because I want to buy it this month.❤
Hi FB,
Would it be possible for you to upload your config files to your Patreon ? I am mainly looking for Neptune 3 max 0.6mm and 0.8mm settings but have a range of printers that could be beneficial.
I have picked up a lot using your videos but working out where a profile has gone wrong seems to be an issue, my K1 with a 0.6 is currently out of action as I seem to have really messed that up with constant jams now, thought it was the printer at first until I moved onto my 3rd extruder and it still didn’t work 😅
As usual good video ! Thanks
Hey! I don’t have config files. I show exactly what I do in this video. Just use the stock profiles and only change infil and supports. The more you mess with the worse it will be.
My K1 Max has been clogging whenever I run a print with multiple objects. Any ideas on how to fix it? Thanks.
Get different filament maybe
Yo your missing some settings in cura, click custom settings 3 bar button and click advanced you then get way way more options
I have a longer lk5 pro, and over 2k hours of printing on it, it works fine other than the face that it doesnt lift up the right hight first few layers, causing what i though for tge longest time was elephants foot. Still never found a fix for this other than the fact that printing with rafts gets rid of it. Anyone have a simular issue?
Hey there I had a question I never see you have a Sonic pad on your CR-M4 or your elegoo Neptune 3 Max just curious why is that don’t you want your prints to be done faster
They come out perfectly fine and fast. No need to spend money and fix something that isn’t broken.
Nobody else noticed that in Cura its 20,5% instead of 5%?
He probably forgot
What about delta printers? I have a love hate relationship with mine at the moment. When it works it's great but recently it's decided to foul the initial layers, no matter what settings I tweak, so I'm now unsure if it's a hardware issue but not sure where to start
Damm. I like. 100% forgot about them haha 😂
@@FranklyBuilt fair, good answer. Honest and direct.
Hey Frank, Please read this.
I am trying to create a daft punk helmet. The printer I am working with is in a library and I need some advice to get started. I know the basics but I don’t have the skills or knowledge for actual printing. I need a personal boost.
Would you print a one piece Master Chief Helmet normal, inverted, or vertical?
Normal
Thanks!
It looks like you left something out with the CoreXY Printer style which should be mentioned imo. While the bed only moves up and down it Does bounce ever so slightly up and down While printing. If you watch them closely as they print you can usually see it happen which is why, I assume, so many people complain about certain prints not doing so well on them.
Not the PRUSA XL
@@astrophysicistguy I just realized what I was talking about is the Z-Hop. Sometimes forget the way Z-Hop works on CoreXY is different from Bed Slingers, or beds that don't move at all.
have you ever thought about making a tpu Deadpool mask?