So pleased to see this video , my labourer decided to keep trying to drive the mower forward when it was clogged up with wet grass , i looked up from strimming to see black smoke coming from the mower and shouted for him to stop the engine ! Im hoping he has only burnt out the drive belt but from my last time of taking apart the Honda just one of those bolts that hold the cowling in situ was a complete pig to unfasten as its just a gripper nut , it had come loose and just spun . Fingers crossed .
Absolutely fantastic video. You motivated me to get out and see why I lost drive on my identical mower. It was just the grub screw on the rear roller, which I'm going to peg with Bendix roll pins. The chain and both sprockets are completely shagged, but the Honda dealer wants £120 for a repair kit. No chance. Your enthusiasm is really superb. I'm very grateful to you. Thanks.
Mick… I have a Honda HRB475 4 -wheel mower and after replacing gearbox pulley I’m left with fitting a new gearbox tension spring ( very short spring ) … I know where one of the ends hooks on but I cannot for the life of me figure out where the other end attaches , I think it’s different to a 476 … I’d love to get your or any viewers help on this . EDIT, found the hook attached through the rear housing by a hook plate… took a stupid ammount of time to fit it… then realized you can fit the spring under zero tension without the drive belt on, then use the gearbox assembly to give mechanical advantage to stretch the spring, hook the drive belt on then release the spring to tension the belt … literally took 2 mins .
Thanks Mick for a great video, it gave me insight of how to dismantle and I found my drive had been lost due to belt coming off the pulley. Sorted, mower cuts like a dream and pulls like a truck! No money spent, just an hour of time. Thank you.
I did this job on the same model yesterday before watching your excellent video. Rather than mess about with the clutch, I decided to take out all four engine mounting bolts to split the engine from the body. This allows the belt to be swapped by lifting it over the clutch assembly. OK in theory, but in my case the clutch cable holder (where you had the grommet) had no grommet, and there was no large hole for the ball end on the cable to pass through. I ended up drilling a hole at the far end of the retaining groove to release the cable. That cost me about an hour of head scratching, and in all the job took just over 3 hours. I love my Honda, but when it comes to maintenance, everything is awkward.
That pulley system underneath is a roto stop clutch. If you engage that yellow button on the handle it engages the clutch. Theses are great as you can leave the engine running without the blades turning to empty the grass box.
I have something similar and when I let go the drive leaver I’m still getting pull for 3 seconds or so , so I’m about to pull mine all apart to find the issue cheers for the heads up on this one Mick
Hi Mick. Love watching your videos they are very informative and have helped me out with many repairs. I have just picked up a Honda HRB423 for a fiver, which is very similar to this one but without the clutch. The drive on this one is not working correctly so was just checking your videos for any clues. I noticed on mine the the chain was seated next to the cogs on the roller and not going over the cogs. At first I thought this was the problem but have since found the drive cable was not working the gear box so hopefully having sorted that it will work when I rebuild it. I notice on your video that the chain is also off the cogs on the roller. Do you know why this is? Why are the cogs there if the chain doesn't go over them? I would love to hear your views. Keep up the great work. I have only been working on mowers for 12 months so your videos are a huge, huge help. Thanks.
@@themowerman Thanks. That was my first thought until I saw your video and then wandered if it worked by increased tension on the chain. I will update you when I have it put back together. Take it easy.
@@themowerman Clarification please Mick. 'Drive' - all the work seemed to be about the drive to the cutters? Was the problem the drive to the roller (i.e. wouldn't drive forward?). Was it the belt in the end? What's the linkage please - engine, belt, chain, roller? Is that it?
@@themowerman About the only place that I see mowers with rollers are at the golf course. A few lawn maintenance guys have them but you just don't see rollers on a residential mower here in North Carolina. Cheers!
Hi Thanks for this video, real help! Quick question, the dead mans hand, where is it? I'm troubleshooting the same issue and want to check the drive but can't figure out what you tied off?
Hi mate it doesn't have a dead man's handle. It only has a clutch for the blades and a drive.. the dead man's switch is operated via the throttle control
@@themowerman Thanks for the response! guessing controlled through pushing the handle in like I would when mowing? If so I got nothing when turning the belt. Maybe have a dead roller transmission. Luckily everything else works fine.
@@themowerman Sadly watched it and checked that one. Not that either. Not sure if it was worth it but I bought one for £100 working in full with working roto clutch as well but with no self drive. Self drive isn't super important as its just for my garden however after watching your videos I started inspecting it. No chain and no chain tension spring. Major red flags that someone has been through this before. I managed to source both parts for £30 and found a transmission for £170. So would be £300 all in if it works. If I chose to carry on trying to repair the drive. Still think £100 was good enough in the first place. No where near the £75 you pain in this video for all 3! Thank you so much for the replies on this. Your videos have been so useful
Great video, thank you. I just picked one up from eBay. A workhorse for sure, but it was a bargain and it runs, so worth a shot. It doesn't idle very nicely and the revs undulate if the cutters are not engaged. The drive works but is weak and takes a few seconds to feel the pull. It was sold with the advice that it needed a service (I don't think its had a service in over six years). I have ordered a service kit and new belt... I am hoping that the hesitant drive is a worn belt? Fingers crossed. I am far from a mechanic, but am hoping that if there is drive at all, that it should be a belt issue if it's only a weak pull?
At 28:08 it looks like there is only one key inserted so the pulley is free to spin and not driven. Is the front one in or is it just the camera angle? Tried a new belt in mine and no such luck it seems the transmission itself is slipping
I have the Honda HRX 426 with drive issues. It will drive on concrete but not grass. When I tighten up the belt to try to get it to grip it then stops driving the roller even if I lift up the mower. Any hints or tips? I have also taken up all the slack on the drive cable. Please note the cable is attached and it is moving the lever on the gearbox. The belt I don't know how old it is (it was on when I had it). But there is no obvious damage or fraying. Any help greatly appreciated.
Well l, new belt arrived and fitted it. The problem seems marginally better. Surely the transmission box is functioning ok as it drives well on tarmac and when you lift up the mower everything is functioning well. Ideas??
Thanks Mick. Helps a lot except..... disconnecting the clutch cable which "comes out in the normal way". Great if you know what that is. If you don't know - like me, then that sort of comment earns you a virtual punch on the nose. So now I'm off the find out the hard way what the normal way is!!!. My aquired mower has a similar drive problem - but whoever last replaced the belt put on one thats too long.
Hi I have a HRX426 with no drive I haven't looked at it yet, I hope it's a simple problem like on this one, or it's for sale as Spares or repair as I'm not spending £120 odd on a new drive, ATM mine does nothing at all. Usually if the drives worn out they go slow rather than stop all together. Anyway good fix🙂👍
Do you know if there’s some sort of conversion kit for HRX mowers to replace the rear wheels with the solid roller? I’ve never seen one with a roller before here in the US.
Great video Mick! Gave me the confidence to deal with my HRX476, which had the same problem with the drive belt and chain. That is, the drive belt had come off the pulley and the drive chain had come off the gear. I fixed it as you did - all straight forward. The drive belt looked fine; no shredding or visible wear, so I put it back. However, the mower now only drives about 50 yards before it throws off the drive belt. I thought I'd screwed up, but when I re-fixed it it happened again. Any thoughts on this? Should I put on a new belt? Am I missing a trck? Any advice welcome....
thought you might like to hear the continuing saga....... Bought and fitted new drive belt. Mower drove 40 yards and then the belt came off again. Thought it might not be the belt when I replaced it as the old one wasn't worn and wasn't stretched. Anyway, tried it twice more, this time fiddling with the tension adjuster. Still threw the belt! Back to the drawing board.... :-( I wondered if anything was missing from my mower that I didn't know about, so I hunted down the parts diagram for the mower at www.diyspareparts.com/parts/honda/diagrams/hrx476c-qxe-masf/ I printed out the pages for the rear roller and the gearbox/transmission and set to work again. Still couldn't see anything that was missing :-( Then I found a 'loose' washer on the gearbox driveshaft. WTF??? It wasn't even on the parts diagram (that I could see anyway). It was tight on the shaft but seemed out of place. As I was messing around there, I discovered that the gearbox moved on the drive shafts. I don't know if that's normal, but it seemed odd. Why would there be any play? It was about 1cm. Obviously it has occurred to me that the gearbox might be causing the problem. But as it costs over £150 I'm not wanting to replace it if I don't have to. And of course it's sealed (well, Honda don't supply any parts for the internals - you have to buy the whole gearbox). Anyway as I was jiggling the whole gearbox about, it suddenly moved in the direction of the drive sprocket and the shorter-ended drive shaft bit came out of the bearing seat! WTF?? That couldn't be right... if it did that when running that would surely throw the drive belt and god-knows-what-else. I looked agin at the parts diagram and then it dawned on my (I know, I'm a bit slow....). The spring pin (or roll pin in the US) - no.17 on the parts diagram - had sheered off. It had sheered off on both sides of the driveshaft. The shaft is 10-12mm in diameter and the pin is 18mm long. Protruding each side of the shaft, it's supposed - I think- to stop the gearbox sliding sideways. I had wondered why it was there because it seemed unnecessary - but now I know. It stops the drive shaft moving through the sprocket bracket where the drive chain is! If that is its function it seems to me to be a pretty basic way to do the job. And if it sheers off and screws up the gearbox then it's an expensive point-of-failure! So off I go to find the pin.... nothing on ebay..a feew in the US (but delivery charge crazy, unsurprisingly). So I ordered one from diyspareparts for £1.32 :-) Plus , wait for it...... £4.50 for delivery and VAT. WTF?? 18mm long and 3 mm diameter. £4.50?? Anyway, it's on its way - I hope lol. And if it does the trick then it may save me the cost of a gearbox that I don't actually need! I hope....... I'l let you know when I get the part and make the fix
another update. Part took 10 days to arrive :-( With the mower on its side you can access this spring pin - but there's not a lot of room. You need a 2.5mm drift, best if over 6 inches long, and a small hammer. I had to use a thin flat head screwdriver. The broken pin came out easily. It had sheered off in the driveshaft. It's much harder to get the new pin back in! It's only 18mm long and you're working tight against the body work. I tried with 11 inch long nose pliers but there wasn't enough room to get square on the pin to tap it home. In the end, I taped the pin to the end of a 3mm drift and managed to tap it just enough to get get it started into the hole. Once it was gripped, I used a 5mm longer drift to knock the pin through so that it protruded equally on both sides of the drive shaft. Make sure you get the washer on the drive shaft in the correct place - that is, between the spring pin and the mower body. Put the drive belt back on, fit the body moulding, the chain spring and the fairing and you're done. The good news is that it worked and solved the problem. The mower doesn't throw the drive belt any more!. Job done ! lol
@@themowermanthanks for your reply my brother took his off now the blade sits flat to the deck if you look on the video it’s sits lower than the deck don’t know if this could be any problems doing this
I spent an hour and a half the last time I didn't have an impact. It's terrible when you have to try and stop the crankshaft turning via the top bolt. I got this Mick th-cam.com/video/n_aDEycOsGw/w-d-xo.html
So pleased to see this video , my labourer decided to keep trying to drive the mower forward when it was clogged up with wet grass , i looked up from strimming to see black smoke coming from the mower and shouted for him to stop the engine !
Im hoping he has only burnt out the drive belt but from my last time of taking apart the Honda just one of those bolts that hold the cowling in situ was a complete pig to unfasten as its just a gripper nut , it had come loose and just spun .
Fingers crossed .
Your welcome mate
Absolutely fantastic video. You motivated me to get out and see why I lost drive on my identical mower. It was just the grub screw on the rear roller, which I'm going to peg with Bendix roll pins. The chain and both sprockets are completely shagged, but the Honda dealer wants £120 for a repair kit. No chance. Your enthusiasm is really superb. I'm very grateful to you. Thanks.
Thanks
Mick… I have a Honda HRB475 4 -wheel mower and after replacing gearbox pulley I’m left with fitting a new gearbox tension spring ( very short spring ) … I know where one of the ends hooks on but I cannot for the life of me figure out where the other end attaches , I think it’s different to a 476 … I’d love to get your or any viewers help on this .
EDIT, found the hook attached through the rear housing by a hook plate… took a stupid ammount of time to fit it… then realized you can fit the spring under zero tension without the drive belt on, then use the gearbox assembly to give mechanical advantage to stretch the spring, hook the drive belt on then release the spring to tension the belt … literally took 2 mins .
Fantastic fixed my Honda drive exactly as you demonstrated thanks a million
No worries
Thanks Mick for a great video, it gave me insight of how to dismantle and I found my drive had been lost due to belt coming off the pulley. Sorted, mower cuts like a dream and pulls like a truck! No money spent, just an hour of time. Thank you.
Your very welcome sometimes it only takes an hour to fix most things and glad its working like new
Great video, but when you check the oil, don't screw in the dipstick. Just push it in until it touches the top of the tube.
I did this job on the same model yesterday before watching your excellent video. Rather than mess about with the clutch, I decided to take out all four engine mounting bolts to split the engine from the body. This allows the belt to be swapped by lifting it over the clutch assembly. OK in theory, but in my case the clutch cable holder (where you had the grommet) had no grommet, and there was no large hole for the ball end on the cable to pass through. I ended up drilling a hole at the far end of the retaining groove to release the cable. That cost me about an hour of head scratching, and in all the job took just over 3 hours. I love my Honda, but when it comes to maintenance, everything is awkward.
Well I hope my videos helped.. that's what it is all about.. I'm live on Saturday nights from 1800 if ever your free.. thanks for watching
You're a life saver! Thank you! Excellent video.
Your welcome
thanks for this oldie mick just what i needed
Glad it helped mate
That pulley system underneath is a roto stop clutch. If you engage that yellow button on the handle it engages the clutch. Theses are great as you can leave the engine running without the blades turning to empty the grass box.
Mower Man yeah mate I finished the other week. I put it together incorrectly but thanks bud
I have something similar and when I let go the drive leaver I’m still getting pull for 3 seconds or so , so I’m about to pull mine all apart to find the issue cheers for the heads up on this one Mick
Your welcome mate hope it helps
Hi Mick. Love watching your videos they are very informative and have helped me out with many repairs. I have just picked up a Honda HRB423 for a fiver, which is very similar to this one but without the clutch. The drive on this one is not working correctly so was just checking your videos for any clues. I noticed on mine the the chain was seated next to the cogs on the roller and not going over the cogs. At first I thought this was the problem but have since found the drive cable was not working the gear box so hopefully having sorted that it will work when I rebuild it. I notice on your video that the chain is also off the cogs on the roller. Do you know why this is? Why are the cogs there if the chain doesn't go over them? I would love to hear your views. Keep up the great work. I have only been working on mowers for 12 months so your videos are a huge, huge help. Thanks.
Hi hope your good . Yeah the chain should be on the cog..
@@themowerman Thanks. That was my first thought until I saw your video and then wandered if it worked by increased tension on the chain. I will update you when I have it put back together. Take it easy.
Excellent. Very clear Mick. My case - just the drive clutch cable came out at the engine end.
I think I could do that now.
Many thanks.
Yeah mate you can get down and dirty.. get her done
@@themowerman Clarification please Mick. 'Drive' - all the work seemed to be about the drive to the cutters?
Was the problem the drive to the roller (i.e. wouldn't drive forward?).
Was it the belt in the end? What's the linkage please - engine, belt, chain, roller? Is that it?
Dave Pawson in the end it was the last correct belt as soon as I fitted the right one it worked fine
Hey Mick,
Great Video, I wish you would have greased that bearing before you reinstalled it back on the shaft. That would have make it last longer.
I hear ya.. all I will say is it's still going strong and being used every day..
Nice job, Mate! These plastic deck Honda's are a bear to take apart. Here in the States, they come with rear drive wheels instead of roller.
Man you got to have a roller for the strips.
@@themowerman About the only place that I see mowers with rollers are at the golf course. A few lawn maintenance guys have them but you just don't see rollers on a residential mower here in North Carolina. Cheers!
Hi Thanks for this video, real help!
Quick question, the dead mans hand, where is it? I'm troubleshooting the same issue and want to check the drive but can't figure out what you tied off?
Hi mate it doesn't have a dead man's handle. It only has a clutch for the blades and a drive.. the dead man's switch is operated via the throttle control
@@themowerman Thanks for the response! guessing controlled through pushing the handle in like I would when mowing?
If so I got nothing when turning the belt. Maybe have a dead roller transmission. Luckily everything else works fine.
@@gla8282 I have another video showing why the drive stops on them.. a small pin snaps
@@themowerman Sadly watched it and checked that one. Not that either. Not sure if it was worth it but I bought one for £100 working in full with working roto clutch as well but with no self drive. Self drive isn't super important as its just for my garden however after watching your videos I started inspecting it. No chain and no chain tension spring. Major red flags that someone has been through this before. I managed to source both parts for £30 and found a transmission for £170. So would be £300 all in if it works. If I chose to carry on trying to repair the drive.
Still think £100 was good enough in the first place. No where near the £75 you pain in this video for all 3!
Thank you so much for the replies on this. Your videos have been so useful
@@gla8282 I believe you can get a new gearbox for 140 on eBay.
Great video, thank you. I just picked one up from eBay. A workhorse for sure, but it was a bargain and it runs, so worth a shot. It doesn't idle very nicely and the revs undulate if the cutters are not engaged. The drive works but is weak and takes a few seconds to feel the pull. It was sold with the advice that it needed a service (I don't think its had a service in over six years). I have ordered a service kit and new belt... I am hoping that the hesitant drive is a worn belt? Fingers crossed. I am far from a mechanic, but am hoping that if there is drive at all, that it should be a belt issue if it's only a weak pull?
Well a service will help for sure.. and maybe it's the belt good luck
very enjoyable fiddly fix but lateral think fixed
At 28:08 it looks like there is only one key inserted so the pulley is free to spin and not driven. Is the front one in or is it just the camera angle? Tried a new belt in mine and no such luck it seems the transmission itself is slipping
No I put both keys in.. it will not work otherwise mate
Great video, thanks Mick.
I have the Honda HRX 426 with drive issues. It will drive on concrete but not grass. When I tighten up the belt to try to get it to grip it then stops driving the roller even if I lift up the mower. Any hints or tips? I have also taken up all the slack on the drive cable.
Please note the cable is attached and it is moving the lever on the gearbox.
The belt I don't know how old it is (it was on when I had it). But there is no obvious damage or fraying.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Hi buddy.. start with the cheapest option.. get a new belt on it.. if it's still not running it sounds like the gearbox is done..
Thanks will do! I'll let you know how I get on.
Well l, new belt arrived and fitted it. The problem seems marginally better.
Surely the transmission box is functioning ok as it drives well on tarmac and when you lift up the mower everything is functioning well.
Ideas??
@@tony3645 sounds like a gear box to me mate
@@themowerman 😭 cheers mate.
Thanks Mick. Helps a lot except..... disconnecting the clutch cable which "comes out in the normal way". Great if you know what that is. If you don't know - like me, then that sort of comment earns you a virtual punch on the nose. So now I'm off the find out the hard way what the normal way is!!!.
My aquired mower has a similar drive problem - but whoever last replaced the belt put on one thats too long.
Ohh man now my nose or bleeding bahaha hope it all works out for you
Great video bud. I have the same model with no drive. I seen the chain was off. Hopefully nothing too serious
I’ve just caught up on all your videos now Mick well done on a great fix & wow you got a bargain on the job lot a nice bit of profit coming your way,
Thanks mate. It's all going very well. More to come soon
I remember doing all this. I bought a clarke electric impact and it's been fantastic
Great video btw. I've just missed out on one of these
Hi I have a HRX426 with no drive I haven't looked at it yet, I hope it's a simple problem like on this one, or it's for sale as Spares or repair as I'm not spending £120 odd on a new drive, ATM mine does nothing at all. Usually if the drives worn out they go slow rather than stop all together. Anyway good fix🙂👍
Ta mate
Perhaps try adjusting the drive clutch (at top), or check cable isn't broken?
The mower will start to judder when the drive is on its way out and that type gearbox, the professional range gearboxes can be repaired
@@deborahhenderson5090 any ideas how much a gear box repair would cost?
Like the adjuster for height one n done 👍
Donald Dooley yeah mate nice and simple just how I like it
Hi Mick great video ... just out of curiosity were do you get these job lots from is it local machinery dealers or eBay
Hi Andy it's a contact I have had for a long time he gets them in by the ton
Do you know if there’s some sort of conversion kit for HRX mowers to replace the rear wheels with the solid roller? I’ve never seen one with a roller before here in the US.
I have been asked the same question.. not to my knowledge I'm afraid..
The qx models ( roller models are not sold in USA ) so I’m informed from Honda USA
@@deborahhenderson5090 well that sucks! lol
Can I ask was there 2 key ways on the engine shaft or just the one
Hi... I had just the one from what I remember
@@themowerman cheers m8
Should be 2.
Great video Mick! Gave me the confidence to deal with my HRX476, which had the same problem with the drive belt and chain. That is, the drive belt had come off the pulley and the drive chain had come off the gear. I fixed it as you did - all straight forward. The drive belt looked fine; no shredding or visible wear, so I put it back. However, the mower now only drives about 50 yards before it throws off the drive belt. I thought I'd screwed up, but when I re-fixed it it happened again. Any thoughts on this? Should I put on a new belt? Am I missing a trck? Any advice welcome....
Hmmm if it keeps kicking it off I would try a new belt and there is a bolt to tensioner the belt up..
@@themowerman Thx Mick - I'll give that a try.
thought you might like to hear the continuing saga....... Bought and fitted new drive belt. Mower drove 40 yards and then the belt came off again. Thought it might not be the belt when I replaced it as the old one wasn't worn and wasn't stretched. Anyway, tried it twice more, this time fiddling with the tension adjuster. Still threw the belt! Back to the drawing board.... :-( I wondered if anything was missing from my mower that I didn't know about, so I hunted down the parts diagram for the mower at www.diyspareparts.com/parts/honda/diagrams/hrx476c-qxe-masf/
I printed out the pages for the rear roller and the gearbox/transmission and set to work again. Still couldn't see anything that was missing :-( Then I found a 'loose' washer on the gearbox driveshaft. WTF??? It wasn't even on the parts diagram (that I could see anyway). It was tight on the shaft but seemed out of place. As I was messing around there, I discovered that the gearbox moved on the drive shafts. I don't know if that's normal, but it seemed odd. Why would there be any play? It was about 1cm. Obviously it has occurred to me that the gearbox might be causing the problem. But as it costs over £150 I'm not wanting to replace it if I don't have to. And of course it's sealed (well, Honda don't supply any parts for the internals - you have to buy the whole gearbox).
Anyway as I was jiggling the whole gearbox about, it suddenly moved in the direction of the drive sprocket and the shorter-ended drive shaft bit came out of the bearing seat! WTF?? That couldn't be right... if it did that when running that would surely throw the drive belt and god-knows-what-else. I looked agin at the parts diagram and then it dawned on my (I know, I'm a bit slow....). The spring pin (or roll pin in the US) - no.17 on the parts diagram - had sheered off. It had sheered off on both sides of the driveshaft. The shaft is 10-12mm in diameter and the pin is 18mm long. Protruding each side of the shaft, it's supposed - I think- to stop the gearbox sliding sideways.
I had wondered why it was there because it seemed unnecessary - but now I know. It stops the drive shaft moving through the sprocket bracket where the drive chain is! If that is its function it seems to me to be a pretty basic way to do the job. And if it sheers off and screws up the gearbox then it's an expensive point-of-failure!
So off I go to find the pin.... nothing on ebay..a feew in the US (but delivery charge crazy, unsurprisingly). So I ordered one from diyspareparts for £1.32 :-)
Plus , wait for it...... £4.50 for delivery and VAT. WTF?? 18mm long and 3 mm diameter. £4.50?? Anyway, it's on its way - I hope lol. And if it does the trick then it may save me the cost of a gearbox that I don't actually need! I hope.......
I'l let you know when I get the part and make the fix
another update. Part took 10 days to arrive :-(
With the mower on its side you can access this spring pin - but there's not a lot of room. You need a 2.5mm drift, best if over 6 inches long, and a small hammer. I had to use a thin flat head screwdriver. The broken pin came out easily. It had sheered off in the driveshaft. It's much harder to get the new pin back in! It's only 18mm long and you're working tight against the body work. I tried with 11 inch long nose pliers but there wasn't enough room to get square on the pin to tap it home. In the end, I taped the pin to the end of a 3mm drift and managed to tap it just enough to get get it started into the hole. Once it was gripped, I used a 5mm longer drift to knock the pin through so that it protruded equally on both sides of the drive shaft. Make sure you get the washer on the drive shaft in the correct place - that is, between the spring pin and the mower body. Put the drive belt back on, fit the body moulding, the chain spring and the fairing and you're done. The good news is that it worked and solved the problem. The mower doesn't throw the drive belt any more!. Job done ! lol
@@miekwest1 wow a great job I bet your well pleased
well done mick not easy
Yeah they are tricky to work on. Thanks for the comment
Nice job , this one should bring some good cash .
What the point of the plate under the blade any ideas thanks
It's a blade spacer to lower the blade a bit
@@themowermanthanks for your reply my brother took his off now the blade sits flat to the deck if you look on the video it’s sits lower than the deck don’t know if this could be any problems doing this
Hi,
Belt with teeth have 10 or 13 mm width ?
Ohhh I don't know sorry
Nice fix Mick . You got a winner for sure.
Thanks mate , I may keep it yet and sell my hayter 48
What a pig job mate fair play in that cold.
Does the drive cable go to the roller?
No to the gearbox
@@themowerman does that mean I won’t have to remove the clutch?
@@grahamgeorge1130 not for a cable fix.. but if you have a belt issue you will ..
@@themowerman thanks for your help bud
I have just fitted the drive cable, works fine, apart from when you pull back it’s ok to begin with then locks up? Up I doing something wrong?
There is a new invention out. It's called a "work bench" ! Let's you STAND and work.
Maybe the guy just wanted to have a sit down 🤔🔫
@@paulstir lol
Can you tell me if the sufferer from jet or carburetor problems?
All mowers do suffer with them.
Ano they do but the carburetor seem to be revving it self since it has been cleaned and is not staying at a tick over
@@MMTgraeme did you clean the slow running jet.. and the main jet
Why are the US honda design so different. I wish I had the single level adjustment on the 3 that I have.
They are a fantastic mower over here in the uk.. and it seems you don't have this model in the us
@@themowerman Wish we would. I have now own 6 of these models which include 2 with blade stop and electric start
I spent an hour and a half the last time I didn't have an impact. It's terrible when you have to try and stop the crankshaft turning via the top bolt. I got this Mick th-cam.com/video/n_aDEycOsGw/w-d-xo.html
After two years this comment has just come through.. lol
Definitely Invest in an impact gun. It's the only way to remove the clutch. 😀
Yeah all set up now
U know something is up when a Honda don’t start first pull lol
Thank you so much for the video Mick, can you or any subscribe be kind to let me know the size of the drive belt please? Many thanks
Mucker
Nice botcher
Half your luck
james allan yeah I know
Would not want you working on my mower mate ( rough !!!) calling pulleys “ cogs” hitting spanner’s with lump hammers , I will stop there
Well thanks for the comment anyway