Been sharpening chainsaw blades by hand for close to 60 years and in my opinion I have become pretty good, but in the back of my mind I always thought that I could do better. Three or four years ago I discovered this type of sharpener and decided to give it a try and was amazed at the results. I really liked your setup demonstration and will definitely apply it the next time I sharpen blades.
In my opinion hand filing is ok but you realy need to get the feel for it i suck at filing but then i tried Square ground file the chain and when i get it right o my o my how nice it cuts. Nowdays i get it right 90% of the time. No grinder in the store in the world will give you that nice results
@@jessefurlong7861 Never really timed. It would depend a lot on the condition of the chain that was being sharpened. If I can remember, I will time it the next time I sharpen and get bacb to you.
I have one of those and it does great for the first set up but have a problem with the other angle The stop doesn't work right. I've tried everything but no luck with it
I have tried a lot of different sharpeners. I am in no way an expert, but I can't argue with the results. The ribbons and wood chips speak for themself. That was only a 59cc saw. I always enjoy reading your comments. Tony
This video actually works. The one I watch you for the guy didn't go through the steps for a good. But I find it easier to do One direction, one angle all the way around and then change your settings and do the other angle all the way around. It works better that way. Thanks for the help
I use the Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener in the field, it's been perfect for the kind of cutting I do. The constant raker adjustments as I file has proven to be more critical than I ever thought for the consistency. The efficiency and speed is hard to beat, but I'm going to get my hands on one of these and give it ago
I got given one. Very lucky, because I wouldn't have spent the money otherwise. And yeah. I don't use anything else now. What's especially great is that it's basically one piece. If I bought one of these things in the video I would probably lose all the files.
I've had one for years, it's very good, accurate and consistent. The carbide sharping bits last a long tym. After U set it up and use it some it doesn't take long to sharpen chains. It's well made & worth it.
That’s a neat tool. Must take awhile to sharpen a chain. I sharpen my blades in the field with a Dremel motor and a 7/32 stone. I have had real good success with that simple method. Quick and easy.
@@TonysTractorAdventure it looks like it could be set up to chuck the carbide into a cordless drill and make really quick work of it. Does it have a rake height gauge built into it?
Looks like if you buy one you might as well just buy two and use them simultaneously for both angles. So long as they're on the same side you just shift the chain slightly to engage each of the stops individually for each angle.
@@TonysTractorAdventure I first heard of Timberline from TH-cam. There are several videos on TH-cam about Timberline. What is the name of the sharpener in your video??????🤷🏿♂️
I have one of these and grew frustrated with trying to get it set up correctly. I do think keeping your chain tight on the bar helps, but it seems to still have a lot of variance (movement) throughout the remainder of the sharpening process. I went back to my cordless Dremel and can do a satisfactory job in less than 1/3 the time with the new sharpener.
I worked on a sawmill log deck back when all the logs were skidded through the dirt, which made it very difficult to maintain a sharp chain. I tried every gadget I could find and they helped me to learn the proper angle, depth, and raker tolerance. Once I understood how the shapes of the three surfaces should appear and could guide the file through the gullet in a straight line with light pressure back and then up, I was able to feel and hear when the tooth was sharp. It took a lot time to get good at it, but the better I got the easier my job was. The joy that I feel when the saw pulls itself into the log effortlessly and the engine honks like a Harley Davidson is the main reason that I enjoy processing my firewood. Remember to follow the rule of the 7 P's - prior proper planning prevents piss poor performance!
I always struggled to keep my chains as sharp as they were when they were new. I bought this tool and it really works well. The trick is to get it set up on the bar properly. You should be able to get great results every time.
That canter knob is to keep chain link from moving sideways, mostly helps when doing cutters that are facing towards the carbide, you was doing the cutters that was facing away.... Also I find on those types sharpens it's harder to get the right hook if not careful, the more the tooth is sharpened the less hook the tooth gets.......
The original name brand of this sharpener is the Timberline, and it's constructed much better with higher-quality carbide cutters available in virtually every size for chain filing. Chain pitch doesn't matter with these because of the adjustment on the top-side stopper.
I have a genuine Timberline, and have compared it to the cheap knockoffs from Amazon (a friend has one) and there is no comparison. It costs a lot more, but the carbide burr is much different and does a much better job. Get the genuine article and you won’t be disappointed.
@@TonysTractorAdventure the technical name is "depth gauge" because their purpose is to control the bite of the cutter (depth of cut) but yeah, mostly it's called "rakers"-
Tony I left a comment on the chain sharpener you showed in your video my sharpener will be here tomorrow afternoon can't wait to try it you absolutely sold me on it thanks for sharing
Hey dude you going to spend all day sharpening a chain how you going to get wood cut spending all day with that change sharpener. Buy a steel handheld sharpener
It took about 8 to 10 minutes. Sounds like your days are very short. Honestly if it takes someone more than 10 minutes, they probably shouldn't have a saw.
People make the whole chain sharpening too complicated. By a box of round files, put a light edge on the teeth with each tank of gas, and replace your files often. Teeth will always be razor sharp. Enjoy.
After trial and error with no tutorial I taught myself the in's and out's of how to sharpen a chain quite well by hand because buying new or having someone else do it got old real quick. I also learned how to use an electric bench sharpener and that's great for the heavy lifting when im not in the field, However I'm only in my late thirties and developing arthritis in my hands pretty bad so this tool interests me for days I may have trouble gripping a file. Thanks for the demonstration. Keep em sharp
Tony, I just came across this video you did about this sharpener. I have been using one for a while and at first thought it was just going to be something I would regret buying but could not be happier with it.
I have one of these and they do just OK. The reason being is at 4:23 in this video you will see that the sharpening rod actually rotates the tooth and this directly affects the geometry of the cutting edge. It's better than hand filing if you cant had file though.
@@TonysTractorAdventure = Please update in the video description, how well the sharpening tool is lasting. . Your link to the sharpening files does not seam to work.
Great video! Watched your video while using one of these tools for the first time. It is rather easy to use once you get the hang of it. Going out to test my blade now! 😅
Glad to see that you have a real saw (I have two Echo's, one Pioneer & one Husky) instead of the Stihl's most folks seem to like (and yes, I did give away my Stihl since I didn't like it one bit!) - take care!
Bought the east file sharpener and that thing work’s excellent as well. The sharpener here does have a bit of an upper hand that it doesn’t need to have the bar in a vice. The easy file does the rakes as well, so I’d say that plus maybe the cost would probably be the easy file’s advantage. I bought the knock off for about $20.00 and should be good for about 20 sharpening’s.
My chains cut BETTER after the first sharpening than they do out of the box/package. I'm happy enough with the job I do using files by hand. I'd never have time to use this fancy dandy thing. Looks like a good design and fun to play with though, so thanks for showing it.
This tool is VASTLY faster to sharpen than by hand and sharpens better as well. Stop the cap dude. If you have one you will NEVER go back except in an emergency. Timberline sharpener, not this knock off chinkanese crap which most likely does not work as claimed and over 33% on amazon attest to this fact. If you notice, the dude on video was most likely PAID to do so as you notice his UNUSED chaps. Also the real thing lasts much much longer as they use far higher quality burrs.
Dont have much experiance sharpening a blade correctly so when i got this tool in i was like oh crap what do i do. But now that ive seen u use it makes me feel like a fool for being so clueless. But i got it figured out now thanks for the video.
I bought two of these. One was for a gift to someone but I like it so well that I'm going to keep both...lol.. There's a trick to setting it up, but after you get it dialed in it works great. Both came from China, but they both are Timberland. Wish I'd seen this video after I bought them. It wood of saved some time....pun intended...
@Tony's Tractor Adventure Homestead Same. My only issue is I have to keep carbide tip free from dibree. Mine is from China. I take it easy and don't force it. I have a problem where I live, no one seems to know how to grind them. Most of the time they are in worse shape then when I took them in. Basically I'm on my own....lol
Ok , chain sharping takes some time . Sharpen each tooth with a guide on the file , this sharpens the tooth . Now remove the guide and do the chain again, this will sharpen the gullet under the tooth . Don't forget to check the rackers also .you do this and Razor Sharp Chain . Take the this time, do it right , excellent results .
Thanks a bunch brother! I'm looking for a way to better and more consistently sharpen my blades than by hand. There are so many different sharpeners out there that I wasn't sure what to try. This was one of the options on my list so I think I will give it a go! Take care and God bless you. 👍🏻👍🏻
Tony looks like the tool works pretty good. There are so many ways to sharpen chains it can almost get confusing. Seems like every time I get one cutting really good I then proceed to find a foreign object in a log. Take care, Ben.
Great point! I think this system takes the "Tony" out of the sharpening process. I did hit my rakes with a file, but the sharpener cuts a nice gullet and chisel on the cutter.
Neat little sharpener ive got one of the stihl hand sharpners and love it but this would be way better in the woods for darn sure. Just look at those chips fly from that log that proves it right there.
Don't pay attention to Old Smoke Eater. He got up on the wrong side of the bed. Once you put it together, it has fewer parts than a standard sharpening kit. You will still need a rake gauge and file.
This sharpener is great when you just cut soft woods. The problem that occurs is when cutting hardwoods the chain tends to dig in and stop cutting. That is what I noticed. The angle of the sharpener is just for one type of sharpening angle. PERIOD !!!!
Very interesting. I was going to ask if you knocked a bit off of the depth gauges. You said you did and didnt film it. Is that part of the shapener as well or did you do that manually with a file? Great demo of this tool. Thanks!
Tony, your instruction video is the best I have seen thanks to the close up camera work. You did fail to show sharpening the teeth with the opposite angle. Was this on purpose?
Trying to get the money 💰 to get me one of these! Times are in the Good Book Brother ❤️👁️❤️🤗,. We need to lead by example and get our wood 🪵🪓 stores up for our community
I have one of these Timberwolf sharpeners sitting on my shelf. It’s been there for 4 years, I wasn’t impressed with it. I use a Stihl 2in1 instead. It does a much better job as far as I’m concerned. I only cut dry Australian hardwoods for firewood. If anyone in Australia wants it it yours for the price of postage.
Old Smoke Eater is correct in that you have to file your rakes, but a rake file has nothing to do with filing your chisel. I stand by this video and the result seen with your own eyes.
Bad, I brought several sizes from china aliexpress. The guides were too far from tooth lock pawl and and too far apart. It ran out of adjustment on 2nd RH guide. It wound out of the adjuster thread and falling out of slots. Another one I got the holes the guides sit in were bad. Loose and relied on plate to hold. One was low and one high by 3mm on chain teeth! Didnt work well like USA timberline sharpener.
Some sharpeners from china aliexpress look like this but appear to be cheap copy and geometrically wrong. They might be rejects or copies of rejects being sold? But main problem is the two guide holes appear further appart meaning the second angle is futher from tooth holding adjustment and not enough adjustment travel. Another china one slightly different looking had same problem and was also badly made, adjustment thread lumpy, guides in oversize jig holes relying on a back plate to wedge tight at angle? Be carefull what you buy online as not all the same and some false advertising photos are used.... they give you choice of colour gold red blue black silver...
China copies geometrically wrong, badly designed and made. Sorry for my video quality but not a video maker just using my little phone. th-cam.com/video/LkWhCgclW0U/w-d-xo.html
@@TonysTractorAdventure I bought one and am running into the same issue as @Phil Sharp , it sharpens one side like a hot damn, but there isn't enough travel in the pawl to get engagement to cut the other side.
that little center thumbwheel is to snug against the individual link in the chain so it doesn't kick up and mess with the angle. I got one and felt poorly about the sloppy fit of the threads. I might want to re-tap them larger and go with a more snug fit. I especially disliked the little crome thumbscrew and sliding fit of the tooth positioning rig. It just seemed too sloppy and loose. I may machine up a better fitting piece to slide in the aluminum extrusion, even put a little detent nylok ball in it to make it stay in place better. I like the idea of it but I am not happy with the execution.
@@TonysTractorAdventure Well allow me to relate a longer narrative. I bought a machine a chain saw grinder, Ended up hating it. It's inaccurate, the castings flex and it's slow. I bought that jug and hated it too. Then one day I was watching Bucking Billy Ray Smith free hand filing a chain. So I had to try. DAMN I felt so stupid~!!! It's easy fast and works great. All I need are some Oregon files and a handle. I'll keep my grinding machine for my carbide blades but man I am a convert to free hand filing.
The adjustment threaded rod on the non Timberline version I have is not quite long enough, also a poor fitting thread in aluminium is a bad design, A pity I had not seen the genuine Timberline product first. Another piece of chinesium bites in the bin.
@@ShevillMathers I gave up entirely on all these gizmos and just bit the bullet and got some proper files made a handle, and set bout to do it by hand. I was SHOCKED at how easy it is to just file them faster better easier. I only use my sharpening machine doe carbide blades now. Grab a file and try. you won't look back
@@Raul28153 I have been felling and cutting up trees since the 1960's (now 85) and still cut my own firewood -hard dry Eucalyptus (Oak) and always sharpened my chain saws by hand, I actually am one of those people who make and machine stuff to high tolerances, so sharpenening chainsaws by hand is a doddle. I was more interested in the device for a friend who does not have my manual skills, and at least it would help him keep the angles correct. Greetings from Tasmania Australia.
Not available anymore on Amazon. Saw it in a Facebook add but the retailer looks really sketchy... No way to contact, & no description of whats in the box. Anyway if I can get this my chain say's it requires a 5/32" file, will this work?
I would consider giving it a shot.i have allways used the file and flat file for the rakes and after 5 year's of trial and error I learned how to get razor sharp. This gadget looks much easier. Like I said I might give it a shot.
It's a Timberline unless a knockoff, great tool the genuine one yours looks to be a copy, used it for years but it's retired now for a hand file. The TCT bits wear and the guides do too, however NOTHING will ever beat a hand file with a good 90 degree handle guide PERIOD !
hi i checked out your video checked out the link but when i clicked the second link it brought me to another chainsaw but not the link for the jig im interested in buying one but wanna know where to purchase the jigs to sharpen them
There are many jig type sharpeners that are good. All are slow. Look at the PFerd hand sharpener. Cuts the rake & sharpens at the same time. A few strokes and You are sharp. Have fun.
Can't believe how the RPM falls off with a little pressure. Also, filing a chain on the bar puts filings in the chain bar groove, not good, especially if it's oily .
The original Timberline really works much better than a cheaper knock-off that is shown. Many sites show the Timberline but then they ship a cheaper knock-off.
I had good luck out of mine right up to the point, I ran over it with my tractor. It fell out of my bag. This video was a while back and there seems to be mixed reviews about quality now. Send it back if you are not 100% satisfied and please let me know. I only recommend what I use, but companies change.
I wish he showed switching the sharpener from the right-hand cutting teeth to the left-hand cutting teeth (or vice versa). Looks to me like you have to do a complete re-setup. I.e., I wish he had demonstrated how the other slanted (round) hole for the hand cranked grinder is used.
I have a Timberline. You can't do better freehand. You will have to adjust when switching to opposite teeth. Also I do 2 / 3 light passes as opposed to 1 heavy cut. This gives a very nice clean cutting tooth.
I have one of these sharpeners, at first I liked it alot then.... I found out that the reamer (file) likes to crawl on top of the blades and the pushing bars do get filed if one doesn't keep an eye on them. If one uses the CORRECT file (most are ⅜") I can achieve just as sharp affect as using this sharpener.
Been sharpening chainsaw blades by hand for close to 60 years and in my opinion I have become pretty good, but in the back of my mind I always thought that I could do better. Three or four years ago I discovered this type of sharpener and decided to give it a try and was amazed at the results. I really liked your setup demonstration and will definitely apply it the next time I sharpen blades.
Thank you
In my opinion hand filing is ok but you realy need to get the feel for it i suck at filing but then i tried Square ground file the chain and when i get it right o my o my how nice it cuts. Nowdays i get it right 90% of the time. No grinder in the store in the world will give you that nice results
How long does it take you with the new method. I guess it depend on how many teeth.
@@jessefurlong7861 Never really timed. It would depend a lot on the condition of the chain that was being sharpened. If I can remember, I will time it the next time I sharpen and get bacb to you.
I have one of those and it does great for the first set up but have a problem with the other angle
The stop doesn't work right. I've tried everything but no luck with it
It breaks my heart when I see folk using blunt chains and getting demoralised, so I fully support this, really couldn't be easier, and a great result.
I have tried a lot of different sharpeners. I am in no way an expert, but I can't argue with the results. The ribbons and wood chips speak for themself. That was only a 59cc saw. I always enjoy reading your comments. Tony
Thank you.
This video actually works. The one I watch you for the guy didn't go through the steps for a good. But I find it easier to do One direction, one angle all the way around and then change your settings and do the other angle all the way around. It works better that way. Thanks for the help
I use the Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener in the field, it's been perfect for the kind of cutting I do. The constant raker adjustments as I file has proven to be more critical than I ever thought for the consistency. The efficiency and speed is hard to beat, but I'm going to get my hands on one of these and give it ago
I heard about those I just bought one today. It worked awsome. Very impressed..
I got given one. Very lucky, because I wouldn't have spent the money otherwise. And yeah. I don't use anything else now. What's especially great is that it's basically one piece. If I bought one of these things in the video I would probably lose all the files.
The Stihl is not Stihl. It's made by a Swiss company then branded. It's not perfect as it takes rakers down just a little too far.
mine turned up this evening, cost me £45.
@@conmanumber1 made by Pferd and it is excellent. The racers are filed down just right and it cuts smooth.
I've had one for years, it's very good, accurate and consistent. The carbide sharping bits last a long tym. After U set it up and use it some it doesn't take long to sharpen chains. It's well made & worth it.
Superb video - Thanks for taking the time to make it - Chris (England)
That’s a neat tool. Must take awhile to sharpen a chain. I sharpen my blades in the field with a Dremel motor and a 7/32 stone. I have had real good success with that simple method. Quick and easy.
I think it is way faster and much more accurate than a hand file. The chain seems to stay sharp longer too, like a new chain.
@@TonysTractorAdventure it looks like it could be set up to chuck the carbide into a cordless drill and make really quick work of it. Does it have a rake height gauge built into it?
Looks like if you buy one you might as well just buy two and use them simultaneously for both angles. So long as they're on the same side you just shift the chain slightly to engage each of the stops individually for each angle.
This tool that you have here is an exact copy of the Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener system. I bought a Timberline last summer. Works great. 👍🏿
I had never heard of Timberline before I made this video. I looked up the chainsaw sharpener on Amazon. I have had several comments about Timberline.
@@TonysTractorAdventure I first heard of Timberline from TH-cam. There are several videos on TH-cam about Timberline. What is the name of the sharpener in your video??????🤷🏿♂️
@@TonysTractorAdventure ❤😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😅😅😅
And what do you do for trimming rakers?
@@floydmayes4924 This tool dosen't trim the reackers, so you need to file the reackers separately. 😊👍🏿
I have one of these and grew frustrated with trying to get it set up correctly. I do think keeping your chain tight on the bar helps, but it seems to still have a lot of variance (movement) throughout the remainder of the sharpening process. I went back to my cordless Dremel and can do a satisfactory job in less than 1/3 the time with the new sharpener.
It took me a little time to figure it out, but I can put a factory edge on in just a few mins now. It is the little tricks that save time.
I worked on a sawmill log deck back when all the logs were skidded through the dirt, which made it very difficult to maintain a sharp chain. I tried every gadget I could find and they helped me to learn the proper angle, depth, and raker tolerance. Once I understood how the shapes of the three surfaces should appear and could guide the file through the gullet in a straight line with light pressure back and then up, I was able to feel and hear when the tooth was sharp. It took a lot time to get good at it, but the better I got the easier my job was. The joy that I feel when the saw pulls itself into the log effortlessly and the engine honks like a Harley Davidson is the main reason that I enjoy processing my firewood. Remember to follow the rule of the 7 P's - prior proper planning prevents piss poor performance!
I always struggled to keep my chains as sharp as they were when they were new. I bought this tool and it really works well. The trick is to get it set up on the bar properly. You should be able to get great results every time.
I wished I had showed filing the rakes. A good chisel and a proper height rake makes all the difference.
@@TonysTractorAdventure This was a very helpful video! But yes, I would love to see how you filed the rakes. Please do another video!
That canter knob is to keep chain link from moving sideways, mostly helps when doing cutters that are facing towards the carbide, you was doing the cutters that was facing away.... Also I find on those types sharpens it's harder to get the right hook if not careful, the more the tooth is sharpened the less hook the tooth gets.......
The original name brand of this sharpener is the Timberline, and it's constructed much better with higher-quality carbide cutters available in virtually every size for chain filing. Chain pitch doesn't matter with these because of the adjustment on the top-side stopper.
Have you ever owned one of these?
I have a genuine Timberline, and have compared it to the cheap knockoffs from Amazon (a friend has one) and there is no comparison. It costs a lot more, but the carbide burr is much different and does a much better job. Get the genuine article and you won’t be disappointed.
Great job it's good to hear someone call the rake by it's right name.you explain thie steps very well done. Thank you
Thank you. We have always called it a rake. Some people call it a gauge, which doesn't make sense to me.
@@TonysTractorAdventure the technical name is "depth gauge" because their purpose is to control the bite of the cutter (depth of cut) but yeah, mostly it's called "rakers"-
Tony I left a comment on the chain sharpener you showed in your video my sharpener will be here tomorrow afternoon can't wait to try it you absolutely sold me on it thanks for sharing
Yes sir. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.
That's a huge help for fixen a chain. I have the file pieces and it's always a chore to keep the still and get a good edge back on.
Thank you. It is worth it to start out the day with a sharp saw.
@@TonysTractorAdventure yes sir.
Thanks for making this video, and explaining how to use this sharpiner. This is what I am looking for to sharpen my chain. I appreciate it.
Hey dude you going to spend all day sharpening a chain how you going to get wood cut spending all day with that change sharpener. Buy a steel handheld sharpener
It took about 8 to 10 minutes. Sounds like your days are very short. Honestly if it takes someone more than 10 minutes, they probably shouldn't have a saw.
People make the whole chain sharpening too complicated. By a box of round files, put a light edge on the teeth with each tank of gas, and replace your files often. Teeth will always be razor sharp. Enjoy.
I appreciate your opinion.
After trial and error with no tutorial I taught myself the in's and out's of how to sharpen a chain quite well by hand because buying new or having someone else do it got old real quick. I also learned how to use an electric bench sharpener and that's great for the heavy lifting when im not in the field, However I'm only in my late thirties and developing arthritis in my hands pretty bad so this tool interests me for days I may have trouble gripping a file. Thanks for the demonstration. Keep em sharp
Please watch the second video on this. They are not as good as the one I bought. Timerline is still making good ones.
Tony, I just came across this video you did about this sharpener. I have been using one for a while and at first thought it was just going to be something I would regret buying but could not be happier with it.
I appreciate how you say you like sharpening towards the tip then proceed to do it the other way around anyway 😅
Been using this tool for several years now. I use a hand file in the woods and then this when the chain needs it at home.
That is not a bad plan, but I suck at hand filing. LOL!
I have one of these and they do just OK. The reason being is at 4:23 in this video you will see that the sharpening rod actually rotates the tooth and this directly affects the geometry of the cutting edge. It's better than hand filing if you cant had file though.
I have really enjoyed this sharpener.
@@TonysTractorAdventure Well, that is what counts! Thanks for the reply!!
@@TonysTractorAdventure = Please update in the video description, how well the sharpening tool is lasting. . Your link to the sharpening files does not seam to work.
Great video! Watched your video while using one of these tools for the first time. It is rather easy to use once you get the hang of it. Going out to test my blade now! 😅
Glad it was helpful!
Really neat! And it cuts really good! The proverbial "hot knife through butter" 👍😎
I believe it sharpener close to a factory sharp. I am impressed.
Glad to see that you have a real saw (I have two Echo's, one Pioneer & one Husky) instead of the Stihl's
most folks seem to like (and yes, I did give away my Stihl since I didn't like it one bit!) - take care!
I like all chainsaws if the cut. This ECHO has been through it. Other than replacing a worn out clutch, it keeps running.
Bought the east file sharpener and that thing work’s excellent as well.
The sharpener here does have a bit of an upper hand that it doesn’t need to have the bar in a vice.
The easy file does the rakes as well, so I’d say that plus maybe the cost would probably be the easy file’s advantage. I bought the knock off for about $20.00 and should be good for about 20 sharpening’s.
My chains cut BETTER after the first sharpening than they do out of the box/package. I'm happy enough with the job I do using files by hand. I'd never have time to use this fancy dandy thing. Looks like a good design and fun to play with though, so thanks for showing it.
You are welcome
This tool is VASTLY faster to sharpen than by hand and sharpens better as well. Stop the cap dude. If you have one you will NEVER go back except in an emergency. Timberline sharpener, not this knock off chinkanese crap which most likely does not work as claimed and over 33% on amazon attest to this fact. If you notice, the dude on video was most likely PAID to do so as you notice his UNUSED chaps. Also the real thing lasts much much longer as they use far higher quality burrs.
But here you are anyway
Nice demonstration. I was curious about this sharpener. I think I will stick to my files but a friend of mine will be interested in this. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Dont have much experiance sharpening a blade correctly so when i got this tool in i was like oh crap what do i do. But now that ive seen u use it makes me feel like a fool for being so clueless. But i got it figured out now thanks for the video.
You are welcome. Thank you for the support.
Have always wondered about these. Thanks for the excellent demo. Plan on buying one.
Watch the next video on this.
I bought two of these. One was for a gift to someone but I like it so well that I'm going to keep both...lol..
There's a trick to setting it up, but after you get it dialed in it works great. Both came from China, but they both are Timberland. Wish I'd seen this video after I bought them. It wood of saved some time....pun intended...
I agree, the trick is to figure out how to set it up. Once I knew how to do that, I could zip through a chain.
@Tony's Tractor Adventure Homestead Same. My only issue is I have to keep carbide tip free from dibree. Mine is from China. I take it easy and don't force it. I have a problem where I live, no one seems to know how to grind them. Most of the time they are in worse shape then when I took them in. Basically I'm on my own....lol
Ok , chain sharping takes some time .
Sharpen each tooth with a guide on the file , this sharpens the tooth .
Now remove the guide and do the chain again, this will sharpen the gullet under the tooth .
Don't forget to check the rackers also .you do this and Razor Sharp Chain .
Take the this time, do it right , excellent results .
Thanks a bunch brother! I'm looking for a way to better and more consistently sharpen my blades than by hand. There are so many different sharpeners out there that I wasn't sure what to try. This was one of the options on my list so I think I will give it a go! Take care and God bless you. 👍🏻👍🏻
Please read the update and watch my later videos. The QC of this one sucks now.
@@TonysTractorAdventure ok, thanks. Unfortunately the QC of a whole lot of things sucks ever since covid disrupted the economy... 😒
Many Thanks from Hungary. Have a nice day.
Thank you! You too!
Looks great but how do you achieve the correct angle, some chains are 25 degrees and some 30 degrees for instance? Great video, thanks
I've thought about getting that tool. One of the most common things people filing their chain is file to low and not doing the rakes.
I agree. I did it for year's.
Best shavings I've seen from a resharpen.
I was impressed right up until I ran over the sharpener with my tractor. I will order another
Tony looks like the tool works pretty good. There are so many ways to sharpen chains it can almost get confusing. Seems like every time I get one cutting really good I then proceed to find a foreign object in a log. Take care, Ben.
Great point! I think this system takes the "Tony" out of the sharpening process. I did hit my rakes with a file, but the sharpener cuts a nice gullet and chisel on the cutter.
Neat little sharpener ive got one of the stihl hand sharpners and love it but this would be way better in the woods for darn sure. Just look at those chips fly from that log that proves it right there.
Yeah, that's exactly what you want in the woods. A complicated sharpener with lots of small parts.
Don't pay attention to Old Smoke Eater. He got up on the wrong side of the bed. Once you put it together, it has fewer parts than a standard sharpening kit. You will still need a rake gauge and file.
@@RealJeepSo you’ve tried both or just manstrating?
nice bit of kit. going to look for one of these bad boys.
It puts a great cutting edge on the chain.
Good demo Tony, will have to get me one of those.
This sharpener is great when you just cut soft woods. The problem that occurs is when cutting hardwoods the chain tends to dig in and stop cutting. That is what I noticed. The angle of the sharpener is just for one type of sharpening angle. PERIOD !!!!
Yes 35°
Do you have a prefered angle for cutting frozen wood ?? Thanks@@hafsalinda 😀😀😀😀
Maybe your saw is under powered
😅
@@timfaulkner7306I think the depth is excessive…..
Thanks for this I will look for it
Merry Christmas
Merry Christmas
good job on the index file for the video. . wish more people would do that. . Thankyou for posting.
Thank you. I try to put chapters on all of my informational videos.
Very interesting. I was going to ask if you knocked a bit off of the depth gauges. You said you did and didnt film it. Is that part of the shapener as well or did you do that manually with a file? Great demo of this tool. Thanks!
Manual file. That is not always needed because the rake wears down dragging on the wood. I hit it very quickly with a flat file and gauge.
Thank you sir, i do believe you sold me on this
Read the update in the comment section and watch the second video. I don't recommend this any longer. To many defects from the factory.
Tony, your instruction video is the best I have seen thanks to the close up camera work. You did fail to show sharpening the teeth with the opposite angle. Was this on purpose?
Please watch the latest video on this subject.
th-cam.com/video/0_4sKBo9r_w/w-d-xo.html
1000th like brother! Hope all is well with you and your family ☺️
Trying to get the money 💰 to get me one of these! Times are in the Good Book Brother ❤️👁️❤️🤗,. We need to lead by example and get our wood 🪵🪓 stores up for our community
Love that saw! I only have a couple cheap ones but they do the job
Thank you my friend. God bless.
Should I use some type of lubricant or cutting oil on the carbide cutter?
I never do. The chain should have enough oil on it already.
How’s it holding up still? How are the carbide sharpeners holding up? Still worth it?
I don't know. I ran over mine with the tractor. I crushed it pretty well.
Great Tutorial Brother! Appreciate it!
Glad it was helpful!
@@TonysTractorAdventure 💯
I have one of these Timberwolf sharpeners sitting on my shelf. It’s been there for 4 years, I wasn’t impressed with it.
I use a Stihl 2in1 instead. It does a much better job as far as I’m concerned.
I only cut dry Australian hardwoods for firewood.
If anyone in Australia wants it it yours for the price of postage.
I appreciate you taking the time to post.
Does that tool sharpen the rakes? Do you need to switch the tool sides for the other tooth?
I answered that question in the video.
Thanks for sharing. Looks like it does a good job.
The chips speak for themselves.😁
Are there different sized cutters for different size chains?
Yes.
Looks great! How do you manage filing the depth guides?
This tool does nothing for the rakers, you'll still have to hand file them which makes this tool useless
Old Smoke Eater is correct in that you have to file your rakes, but a rake file has nothing to do with filing your chisel. I stand by this video and the result seen with your own eyes.
@@TonysTractorAdventure This looks like an excellent tool. Just was wondering if you had another guide or tool to get all of the depths the same?
The best and fastest sharpener I've used is a Dremel with a diamond bit .
Bad, I brought several sizes from china aliexpress. The guides were too far from tooth lock pawl and and too far apart. It ran out of adjustment on 2nd RH guide. It wound out of the adjuster thread and falling out of slots. Another one I got the holes the guides sit in were bad. Loose and relied on plate to hold. One was low and one high by 3mm on chain teeth! Didnt work well like USA timberline sharpener.
Funny, I just showed this one work perfectly in a video for the world to see. I guess you don't believe your own eyes.
Some sharpeners from china aliexpress look like this but appear to be cheap copy and geometrically wrong. They might be rejects or copies of rejects being sold? But main problem is the two guide holes appear further appart meaning the second angle is futher from tooth holding adjustment and not enough adjustment travel. Another china one slightly different looking had same problem and was also badly made, adjustment thread lumpy, guides in oversize jig holes relying on a back plate to wedge tight at angle? Be carefull what you buy online as not all the same and some false advertising photos are used.... they give you choice of colour gold red blue black silver...
China copies geometrically wrong, badly designed and made. Sorry for my video quality but not a video maker just using my little phone.
th-cam.com/video/LkWhCgclW0U/w-d-xo.html
@@TonysTractorAdventure I bought one and am running into the same issue as @Phil Sharp , it sharpens one side like a hot damn, but there isn't enough travel in the pawl to get engagement to cut the other side.
that little center thumbwheel is to snug against the individual link in the chain so it doesn't kick up and mess with the angle. I got one and felt poorly about the sloppy fit of the threads. I might want to re-tap them larger and go with a more snug fit. I especially disliked the little crome thumbscrew and sliding fit of the tooth positioning rig. It just seemed too sloppy and loose.
I may machine up a better fitting piece to slide in the aluminum extrusion, even put a little detent nylok ball in it to make it stay in place better.
I like the idea of it but I am not happy with the execution.
Mine seems to work as advertised. It could have tighter tolerances.
@@TonysTractorAdventure Well allow me to relate a longer narrative. I bought a machine a chain saw grinder, Ended up hating it. It's inaccurate, the castings flex and it's slow. I bought that jug and hated it too. Then one day I was watching Bucking Billy Ray Smith free hand filing a chain. So I had to try. DAMN I felt so stupid~!!! It's easy fast and works great. All I need are some Oregon files and a handle. I'll keep my grinding machine for my carbide blades but man I am a convert to free hand filing.
The adjustment threaded rod on the non Timberline version I have is not quite long enough, also a poor fitting thread in aluminium is a bad design, A pity I had not seen the genuine Timberline product first. Another piece of chinesium bites in the bin.
@@ShevillMathers I gave up entirely on all these gizmos and just bit the bullet and got some proper files made a handle, and set bout to do it by hand. I was SHOCKED at how easy it is to just file them faster better easier. I only use my sharpening machine doe carbide blades now. Grab a file and try. you won't look back
@@Raul28153 I have been felling and cutting up trees since the 1960's (now 85) and still cut my own firewood -hard dry Eucalyptus (Oak) and always sharpened my chain saws by hand, I actually am one of those people who make and machine stuff to high tolerances, so sharpenening chainsaws by hand is a doddle. I was more interested in the device for a friend who does not have my manual skills, and at least it would help him keep the angles correct. Greetings from Tasmania Australia.
Hey Tony, does that tool work for dealing with the rakes or did you use a different tool and file?
I used a flat-file.
Not available anymore on Amazon. Saw it in a Facebook add but the retailer looks really sketchy... No way to contact, & no description of whats in the box. Anyway if I can get this my chain say's it requires a 5/32" file, will this work?
Thank you for the info. I corrected the link. It has been a while since I looked at this post.
I would consider giving it a shot.i have allways used the file and flat file for the rakes and after 5 year's of trial and error I learned how to get razor sharp. This gadget looks much easier. Like I said I might give it a shot.
It's a Timberline unless a knockoff, great tool the genuine one yours looks to be a copy, used it for years but it's retired now for a hand file. The TCT bits wear and the guides do too, however NOTHING will ever beat a hand file with a good 90 degree handle guide PERIOD !
I did a second video. I appreciate your opinion.
@@TonysTractorAdventure Thanks buddy, I appreciate your videos and experience too
U don’t address the rakers to adjust the depth of cut?
Thanks
You didn't watch the video.
@@TonysTractorAdventure
My apologies.
@@TonysTractorAdventure
I use the Stihl 2in1 has worked perfectly.
Thanks
were can i buy one of them chain saw sharpners like you got and how much
I put a link in the video description
.
What is that tool called and where did you get it I need one
I have seen that tool and wandered if it was any good. You just convinced me to order one
I still use a flat-file on the rakes, but wow! It did a great job.
"I go with tooth direction" immediately goes against tooth direction lol. just teasing man. great video
Thank you. I had good results until I ran over the sharpener with my tractor. Stuff happens.
beginner chain saw user here....how long would it take to sharpen a 16 inch chain with this device?
David, Like anything, you would get better with practice. I can sharpen my big saw in about 7-10 mins.
Great demonstration …..
Thank you. It sure puts a nice edge on the chain.
Holy smokes how many years did that take you?
Have you ever tried the two in one by Stihl?
I have not. I bought one, but I can't find it. I will find it at the last place I look for it. LOL!
@@TonysTractorAdventure Omg. Lmao. I do the same thing. And it’s always the last place I look. 😂😂
Where can we get replacement grinding rods when the originals run out?
Amazon
Cool tool. I might give it a try!
Hey, Ed! Yes sir, the sharpener did well.
so the chinese one is worth it??? i verly found out about this sharpeners..
It worked well until I ran over it with my tractor. Stupid is as stupid does.
hi i checked out your video checked out the link but when i clicked the second link it brought me to another chainsaw but not the link for the jig im interested in buying one but wanna know where to purchase the jigs to sharpen them
I think you clicked the wrong link.
This is an excellent product no doubt but, I feel like hand files are still quicker while in the field.
I agree.
Thanks for the video I'm buying one today thanks for your info
Make sure you read the video description before you buy. I have an update
Which one is the best
Wow, that's amazing!
As a lead chainsaw man, I found the main thing about sharpening is having a good file.
That never hurt
It may be common knowledge but I would mark the first tooth with a Sharpie so I know when I've completed the chain.
Can you buy replacement cutters?
Yes👍
what size of chain is this thing for?
You can buy cutters for any size.
Great tool!
It impressed the heck out of me.
That looks like even I could sharpen my chain. Lol. Thanks for sharing.
I sharpened a bad one the other day, and it did great. It took longer to correct the angles, but it was back like a factory cut.
There are many jig type sharpeners that are good. All are slow. Look at the PFerd hand sharpener. Cuts the rake & sharpens at the same time. A few strokes and You are sharp.
Have fun.
The PFerd looks good, but this jig is not slow. Once it is set up, I jump from tooth to tooth.
Pferd has the best files-
How do you do the other side teeth?
It has two angles. I did another video better explaining.
I am thinking that the first thing I would do is jig the bit to a variable speed drill.
I don't like 2 things.
1) it's only 30 degrees
2) the bits are used for all sizes in diameter
How do you stop so you don't bore a 7/32 into a 5/32?
Each bit is the correct diameter. It is not one bit that fits all.
Oh my.
What about the rakes?
Rakes have to be checked like normal
Can't believe how the RPM falls off with a little pressure. Also, filing a chain on the bar puts filings in the chain bar groove, not good, especially if it's oily .
The original Timberline really works much better than a cheaper knock-off that is shown. Many sites show the Timberline but then they ship a cheaper knock-off.
Watch the second video I did on this
Exactly what I thought but the timberlines are always sold out.
Immediately bought it based on your recommendation, and the fact that it was just $35.
I had good luck out of mine right up to the point, I ran over it with my tractor. It fell out of my bag. This video was a while back and there seems to be mixed reviews about quality now. Send it back if you are not 100% satisfied and please let me know. I only recommend what I use, but companies change.
Thank you
I wish he showed switching the sharpener from the right-hand cutting teeth to the left-hand cutting teeth (or vice versa). Looks to me like you have to do a complete re-setup. I.e., I wish he had demonstrated how the other slanted (round) hole for the hand cranked grinder is used.
I have a Timberline. You can't do better freehand. You will have to adjust when switching to opposite teeth. Also I do 2 / 3 light passes as opposed to 1 heavy cut. This gives a very nice clean cutting tooth.
Nasıl temin ederiz. Alırız teşekkürler.
Where to buy this one the original one
I have one of these sharpeners, at first I liked it alot then....
I found out that the reamer (file) likes to crawl on top of the blades and the pushing bars do get filed if one doesn't keep an eye on them.
If one uses the CORRECT file (most are ⅜") I can achieve just as sharp affect as using this sharpener.
Thank you. I liked right up to the point I ran over it with the tractor. LOL! I need a new one.