From the Timberline website: "The center knob is only needed if your bar is worn and the chain flops from side to side. It helps push the chain vertical when sharpening side A so that the carbide can be inserted into the chain without having to push it over with your finger."
Well done; I've been doing it the old way for years. You just taught an old dog a new trick. I am sold on this. Your video was excellent. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks, It looked difficult when I received the tool and the instructions in the box assumed I knew a lot about sharpening before I even started. Very well done, I like the truth in it. No BS thanks for taking the time.
You need to use oil on the shank of the file. I use a small dopper with bar oil. I mark the first tooth and take a very light pass. I do the entire loop on either the right or left cutters. You will find some cutters have a little more material removed and some next to none. I do each side with at least 3 passes till all the cutters are the same length and no cutters have any jagged cutting edges. I then repeat on the opposite cutters. I take light passes as not to dull the file prematurely. Also snug up the chain tight that will eliminate the need to use the center knob to clamp the cutters and produce a much more accurate sharpening. Best of luck to all sharpening your own chains 😊
I'm here for a refresher. I've been through the summer since last needing to use it, and I believe that your video is among the best ones that I have watched. Better than most of the ones I saw to learn how to use the tool.
Hey, I was watching your field test video when your notification came across. I could bend your keyboard fingers for a time, but I have a project to finish. I will leave you with a riddle. How do you get a new chainsaw? I'll check back later. Give you my answer if you haven't come up with a better one than mine. Black walnut for the demo, correct? I used to describe my place as the one that you can't see from the road. Then three years ago a tornado came through and took care of that. My volunteer walnut trees were almost to gunstock thickness. In another twenty years, they were going to be my retirement account. There was one that was growing in the shade that gauged less than double for the time we have been on the property. It was veneer or musical instrument quality. Now it's firewood.
@@knotbreaker loan yours to a friend. He did me a favor though. It's an MS 310, and it has a design flaw. I couldn't complete a big project without breaking the starter paul. It has just one instead of two. Other than that, it was a beast. Walked into Home D one Sunday evening, and glancing towards the rental department, sitting on a shop cart, with a Halo glowing around it was a Makita DCS6421. That fifteen dollar purchase turned into a $315 one. Plus tax, and worth it. It's German made, and beastier.
Ive got the stihl sharpener & it works perfectly. Best sharpener ive ever used. What most amateurs like me dont realise is the rakers need attention also. The stihl sharpener does both. If your rakers are to high it doesnt matter how sharp the chain is.
Excellent video. Don't forget to tell them to never spin the cutter backwards. It will chip the cutting edge of the carbide immediately. The center knob provides support for the cutters on the right side of the chain. The sharpening motion of the carbide cutter tends to push them away more where as the left cutters tend to get pulled into the cutter. The spring steel on mine likes to ride down. It needs to be more securely attached to the Timberline.
I have been educated. Very nice sharpening tool. Great explanation and tutorial. On the camera equipment, remember there is always someone out there with worse stuff...
Nothin' wrong with your equipment man - tough close-ups those but we all saw what you wanted us to see. I found this very interesting as the Timberline just never did it for me.
I know on our lathe and milling Machines if you don’t have the bit/work spinning and hit the carbide it will break. Do you have this problem with these carbide bits breaking?
I have this. I can never sharpen the whole chain (left and right cutters) at once. I have to set the jig, do all the left cutters. Reset jig and do the rights.
I bought one about a 2 weeks ago and first time I used it the carbide bit got stuck in the barrel and I couldn't take it back out. I tried tapping it out and broke the carbide bit! I spoke with customer service person and he asked I oiled the carbide bit prior to using it! That's why it got stuck Do you oil the carbide bit before using it?
@@knotbreaker I wonder why I binded on me so tight that I couldn't get it out. Customer service guy said it's happened before to other customers and they've sent it back to have them press it out. Anyway I got the parts yesterday, so I'll give it another try
I have one and it works great. The instructions tell you to use oil. The carbide cutters come 3 sizes 3/8P, .325 and 3/8. To avoid breaking a cutter don't let it grab or drop them. Stay from the cheap knockoffs. Timberline customer service is exceptional.
Not so fast. I tried the Timberline and my chains consistently walked to one side. Double checked and found the pitch of the Timberline file is different from the chain. Turns out I was sharpening the tooth point on one side and the tooth heal on the other. Will give it another try to be fair but in no way is this a quick k operation. I suggest the two-in-one hand file if you want to get things done.
Tighten that center knovb ! It wedges the chain link tight so there is no deviation or chatter when cutting . Bump your pawl setting tighter if the gullet or outside edge isnt shiny on first pass. Good sharpening is removing the variables in the machine.
Thanks very much for this "independent" lesson (as opposed to the company's own instructions). I just bought one of these Timberline units for my Stihl and hope it proves to be worth the considerable extra cost for "the real thing," as opposed to the inexpensive copies from overseas. Do you have any thoughts about that? Best, Chris (in Maine)
You need to adjust your block and put the tip of the carbide in the gullet because it's thinner in diameter then when you go to sharpen it and you're actually getting the full tooth
Yhey are great, when conditions are perfect,the real bad thing about these is when a tiny shaving of steel gets in the gap...jams it right up, had to beat the backside of the carbide bit to knock it out. I may try it again o e day, but the Stihl 2 in 1 does a fantastic job so I'll use that.
Cool product. The bushings are probably hardened to prevent damage from the file? I like the case. How fast can you sharpen with this? I’ve been slabbing alot of wood and would like to figure out how to speed up sharpening.
You can certainly hand file faster, but, you can't hand file as accurately. Perhaps there are some skilled woodsmen that can get close. But the point of this product, in my opinion, is a sharp tooth with an accurate angle, every single tooth every single time. It also gets my chain sharper than many I've felt that were freshly hand filed.
Also, there's the ease of use in the fact that you can sharpen the entire chain from one position. So, while it's not as fast, it has other advantages that make it worth it. Especially for homeowners or weekend warriors because the carbide bit lasts for 20-30 sharpenings. Someone who doesn't cut all day, every day can use this for multiple seasons of firewood harvesting.
Great video, and product demonstration! Keep up the good wrk, I will look into one of these myself! Quick question, are you using a microphone? If not you may need to look into one
Welp, I DEFINITELY should’ve watched this before using. I sorta figured it out and did get the chain sharpened but also ruined the sharpener. Luckily it was a cheap-o knockoff. 😂
The flaw is that the jig runs out of adjustment once the chain has been sharpened several times. Mine is a Chinese knock - off. The idea is good but the delivery is not.
Do you know if these guys are still in business Timberline I've been calling them all week and all I get is an answering machine plus I've emailed it and heard nothing
From the Timberline website: "The center knob is only needed if your bar is worn and the chain flops from side to side. It helps push the chain vertical when sharpening side A so that the carbide can be inserted into the chain without having to push it over with your finger."
You made the instructions better than the actual company did!
Well done; I've been doing it the old way for years. You just taught an old dog a new trick. I am sold on this. Your video was excellent. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks, It looked difficult when I received the tool and the instructions in the box assumed I knew a lot about sharpening before I even started. Very well done, I like the truth in it. No BS thanks for taking the time.
Thank you for watching! Hopefully it helped!
Been using this for 3 years now.
Great tool love the save of life on the chain. Always cuts like new.
You need to use oil on the shank of the file. I use a small dopper with bar oil. I mark the first tooth and take a very light pass. I do the entire loop on either the right or left cutters. You will find some cutters have a little more material removed and some next to none. I do each side with at least 3 passes till all the cutters are the same length and no cutters have any jagged cutting edges. I then repeat on the opposite cutters. I take light passes as not to dull the file prematurely. Also snug up the chain tight that will eliminate the need to use the center knob to clamp the cutters and produce a much more accurate sharpening. Best of luck to all sharpening your own chains 😊
I'm here for a refresher. I've been through the summer since last needing to use it, and I believe that your video is among the best ones that I have watched.
Better than most of the ones I saw to learn how to use the tool.
Thank you for the kind words
Hey, I was watching your field test video when your notification came across.
I could bend your keyboard fingers for a time, but I have a project to finish.
I will leave you with a riddle.
How do you get a new chainsaw?
I'll check back later. Give you my answer if you haven't come up with a better one than mine.
Black walnut for the demo, correct?
I used to describe my place as the one that you can't see from the road.
Then three years ago a tornado came through and took care of that.
My volunteer walnut trees were almost to gunstock thickness. In another twenty years, they were going to be my retirement account. There was one that was growing in the shade that gauged less than double for the time we have been on the property. It was veneer or musical instrument quality.
Now it's firewood.
How do you get a new chainsaw? 🤔 I'm not excellent with riddles but, I'd say break your old one or get it stuck in some wood lol.
@@knotbreaker loan yours to a friend.
He did me a favor though. It's an MS 310, and it has a design flaw. I couldn't complete a big project without breaking the starter paul. It has just one instead of two.
Other than that, it was a beast.
Walked into Home D one Sunday evening, and glancing towards the rental department, sitting on a shop cart, with a Halo glowing around it was a Makita DCS6421.
That fifteen dollar purchase turned into a $315 one.
Plus tax, and worth it.
It's German made, and beastier.
Be safe.
The machine don't care.
Ive got the stihl sharpener & it works perfectly. Best sharpener ive ever used. What most amateurs like me dont realise is the rakers need attention also. The stihl sharpener does both. If your rakers are to high it doesnt matter how sharp the chain is.
Learn how to do progressive raker sharpening and you'll be ahead of the curb.... even for a weekend warrior.
The middle knob is to put light pressure on the side of the chain to stop it moving sideways in the bar groove. Greetings from Tasmania Australia 😁🇦🇺🦘
Greetings to you as well, friend! Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much. I have seen this jig but never looked at it in detail. Great job sir...
Thank you!
There will be an axe restoration soon, I promise!
@@knotbreaker No hurry no worry, saws, mauls, sharpening, firewood.....
Excellent video. Don't forget to tell them to never spin the cutter backwards. It will chip the cutting edge of the carbide immediately.
The center knob provides support for the cutters on the right side of the chain. The sharpening motion of the carbide cutter tends to push them away more where as the left cutters tend to get pulled into the cutter. The spring steel on mine likes to ride down. It needs to be more securely attached to the Timberline.
I have been educated. Very nice sharpening tool. Great explanation and tutorial. On the camera equipment, remember there is always someone out there with worse stuff...
Glad to be able to teach you something!
@@knotbreaker Old dog new trick?
What happens when you use different size carbide bits? Does it flop around?
Nothin' wrong with your equipment man - tough close-ups those but we all saw what you wanted us to see. I found this very interesting as the Timberline just never did it for me.
Thanks for watching!
I know on our lathe and milling Machines if you don’t have the bit/work spinning and hit the carbide it will break. Do you have this problem with these carbide bits breaking?
They will chip quite easily if you don't have the jig set correctly. I have yet to break one.
I have this. I can never sharpen the whole chain (left and right cutters) at once. I have to set the jig, do all the left cutters. Reset jig and do the rights.
I've never had that issue with mine.
Beautiful work my friend. I'll drag my Timberline out and have another go.
Very well put together and helpful
I bought one about a 2 weeks ago and first time I used it the carbide bit got stuck in the barrel and I couldn't take it back out. I tried tapping it out and broke the carbide bit! I spoke with customer service person and he asked I oiled the carbide bit prior to using it! That's why it got stuck
Do you oil the carbide bit before using it?
I do not, that's interesting! I've never had that issue either
@@knotbreaker
I wonder why I binded on me so tight that I couldn't get it out. Customer service guy said it's happened before to other customers and they've sent it back to have them press it out.
Anyway I got the parts yesterday, so I'll give it another try
Quite an interesting experience for sure. How was it dealing with customer service?
@@knotbreaker
They have been very professional and easy to deal with
I have one and it works great. The instructions tell you to use oil. The carbide cutters come 3 sizes 3/8P, .325 and 3/8. To avoid breaking a cutter don't let it grab or drop them. Stay from the cheap knockoffs. Timberline customer service is exceptional.
Very cool. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
Not so fast. I tried the Timberline and my chains consistently walked to one side. Double checked and found the pitch of the Timberline file is different from the chain. Turns out I was sharpening the tooth point on one side and the tooth heal on the other. Will give it another try to be fair but in no way is this a quick k operation. I suggest the two-in-one hand file if you want to get things done.
How can a singe file have a pitch? 🤔
Tighten that center knovb ! It wedges the chain link tight so there is no deviation or chatter when cutting .
Bump your pawl setting tighter if the gullet or outside edge isnt shiny on first pass.
Good sharpening is removing the variables in the machine.
This was great, I’m sharing this!!!
Thank you, good sir
Does this sharpen down the rakers too or just the chain
Thanks very much for this "independent" lesson (as opposed to the company's own instructions). I just bought one of these Timberline units for my Stihl and hope it proves to be worth the considerable extra cost for "the real thing," as opposed to the inexpensive copies from overseas. Do you have any thoughts about that? Best, Chris (in Maine)
It seems like you are going in the opposite direction when you are filing the blue sharpie tooth.
Looks like this could really save me some money. I don’t need a bench vise looks like I could use this out in the field
You need to adjust your block and put the tip of the carbide in the gullet because it's thinner in diameter then when you go to sharpen it and you're actually getting the full tooth
Thank you for the video presentation.
Nice video. Can this handle a small chain like 1/4 inch? I have a small Sihl electric saw and it runs a 1/4" STIHL PICCO chain.
I do not believe they're made for the smaller chain, unfortunately.
Yhey are great, when conditions are perfect,the real bad thing about these is when a tiny shaving of steel gets in the gap...jams it right up, had to beat the backside of the carbide bit to knock it out. I may try it again o e day, but the Stihl 2 in 1 does a fantastic job so I'll use that.
I can't wait to compare the two.
@@knotbreaker 2 in 1 is fantastic imo...once I get some new carbide bits for the Timberline I'll try again..
I've used the 2n1 once and wasn't impressed, thus far. Probably user error but, I'll try again!
@@knotbreaker more pressure on the front hand worked for me, definitely easier with 2 hands
Where do you purchase replacement sharpening rods?
From their website linked in the description
Cool product. The bushings are probably hardened to prevent damage from the file? I like the case. How fast can you sharpen with this?
I’ve been slabbing alot of wood and would like to figure out how to speed up sharpening.
You can certainly hand file faster, but, you can't hand file as accurately. Perhaps there are some skilled woodsmen that can get close. But the point of this product, in my opinion, is a sharp tooth with an accurate angle, every single tooth every single time. It also gets my chain sharper than many I've felt that were freshly hand filed.
Also, there's the ease of use in the fact that you can sharpen the entire chain from one position. So, while it's not as fast, it has other advantages that make it worth it. Especially for homeowners or weekend warriors because the carbide bit lasts for 20-30 sharpenings. Someone who doesn't cut all day, every day can use this for multiple seasons of firewood harvesting.
place the carbide cutter in a power drill - I have a Timberline but have reverted to hand filing.
Hello what is the diameter of the file
13/64" or 15.2mm
@@knotbreaker Diameter ? Sure? 1,5cm is do Big
Sorry, 5.2mm
@@knotbreaker okay thanks
A great video, appreciate your effort.
Awesome video
Thanks barry!
How does it compare with the 2 in 1?
Future video, friend. We're gonna compare them as soon as I get the hang of the 2-n-1 to make it fair
Dónde lo puedo comprar
Great video, and product demonstration! Keep up the good wrk, I will look into one of these myself!
Quick question, are you using a microphone? If not you may need to look into one
I am using a mic. Probably need to download an equalizer software. Is there an issue with my voiceover?
@@knotbreaker it my be my hearing, but you come across soft spoken, and at time a little hard for me to hear.
Ceh hargane klu mau beli di mana
Good video, thank you
Welp, I DEFINITELY should’ve watched this before using. I sorta figured it out and did get the chain sharpened but also ruined the sharpener. Luckily it was a cheap-o knockoff. 😂
Great sharpener
Anyone see the fatal flaw in this design?
The flaw is that the jig runs out of adjustment once the chain has been sharpened several times. Mine is a Chinese knock - off. The idea is good but the delivery is not.
How so? The jig is infinitely adjustable. At least the original version is, anyway.
@@knotbreaker I believe the Timberline tool would have infinate adjustment. The chinese knockoff, no. Its a piece of junk
Would you be so kind as to provide me with a link to the true Timbetline website? Everything I've been able to find are cheap Chinese knock-offs.
There's a link in the description of the video, friend. timberlinesharpener.com/
Berapa harga
This is for the city slicker who doesn't know how to use a chainsaw file ............
Guess I'll just sell my saws and move to a big city somewhere lol
Looks like you need to sharpen the day before you what to cut 😒
Lol it's not THAT bad. It takes around 15 mins to do a 25-28" bar.
I could have done mine 50cm with a dremel the time it took u set it up 😂
First!
there custormer service stinks i have one of these i will never buy another because of that
I haven't had to deal with them yet.
Thanks Billy Bob Thornton....lol
Any time. If only I had his budget, I wouldn't be here haha
good for a newb!
Indeed. Or, anyone really. See part 2 to see how well it works!
A newb needs to learn hand filing first - either free hand with a round file or with a guide IMHO
junk
Had to leave, didn’t like the music too loud for me.
Good luck
Do you know if these guys are still in business Timberline I've been calling them all week and all I get is an answering machine plus I've emailed it and heard nothing
I don't know, friend
Thanks going to buy one.