I had the same problem once, the live data for the turbo position had the same crazy readings on the scan tool although the signal voltage looked ok at the pcm when I checked with a multimeter. Someone left me a comment saying that PID is always like that and I should ignore it. Thanks for the video mate
Brilliant repair Luis. Must have been a glitch inherent to the engine ECU software which Ford/Siemens have just ignored through all the years. I highly doubt they will ever fix it, though - don't know if they bother releasing SW updates for what seems like a 2007-2008ish car/system any longer. But the main thing is: you nailed it again, respect!
@@mesidb15My comment was generally meant, I dont own a Ford :) However, I know people here who are very much into fixing ECUs so I know who to turn to.
Completely normal voltages for data logging vain position on those engines been caught out myself! Mine sat around -55v at idle from memory, keep up the great work!
This appears to be a close ground loop because of a failure in Bat V or similar voltage. Like the Renault and Citroën do have it in the back lights when they have a ground problem to the rear. The close loop makes the ground appears in parallel Circuits and some lights do "on" when you break or engage rear. The failure light plus the failure in the fuse may stablish this parasitic ground loop and unbalance the voltage comparators in the ECU.
A few years back the ECU "died" on my Mondeo according to a very reliable mechanic. The car refused to even start up and turned off whilst I was driving at 70mph. So he took it out and sent it to be reconditioned. After 2 weeks the ECU came back with no repair as the reconditioning guys said they found nothing wrong with it. The ECU was plugged back in and the problem never came back 🤔 only conclusion was that maybe it got some water in it and by the time it got checked it had dried out
Disconnect the windscreen washer motor / fuse. Empty the washer bottle. Well known they leak right onto the ECU and cause dramas, usually killing the ECU if used often enough. Cover the ecu box in silicone spray every few months and do as above or find a way to stop it leaking right onto the ECU, just a design flaw by the bell ends at FORD. Also, it is in my estimation of probability that the way the drainage system for water through the front vent system is designed, also directs water onto the ECU. 😅
@@DoubtingThomas333 interesting theory! The above issue on my car acted up today after I topped off washer fluid this morning, and drove for 100 miles... you reckon I can expect it to be fine tomorrow? Given a chance to dry overnight.. Having washer fluid and ecu side by side seems a bit daft, indeed. Wonder why they chose to place it there....
I know about the issue that the water travels through the wires due to the washer motor leaking into the plug... goes all the way to the BCM... that is a known issue... direct into the ecu, not sure, never came across that.. but definitely worth checking... 👍👍👍
@@LMAutoRepairs so interestingly enough, after reading Thomas's comment I went out to check my car. First had a look at the infamous F4 which was fine. Then operated the windscreen washer for 20 sec and sure enough, washer fluid dribbled out from the front of the wheel arch. Definitely a leak there, and given it's location more than likely the culprit on my car. Will have another look tomorrow by daylight, but given I'm on holiday without any tools (will not make that same mistake any time soon, haha) I'll need to improvise....
It looks like a couple of stuck “1” bits in a registry for the FPU (the first bit being the sign, it would always give a negative number). Whether it’s a hardware issue or a programming error, it’s apparently only impacting on the representation and not the implementation of the software (at least not in a visible way). Cheers
Still makes not a lot of sense... How do they have decided that the boost is -50%? At that value, I would still see it as a fault... I have always seen them when in percentage, from 0% to 100%... If that is correct, is not very intuitive, and Ford just made it really awkward... I still more adamant that this was a glitch on the ecu software... bug I might be wrong... Thank you for watching and for your comment! 👍👍👍
@@LMAutoRepairs I know is no sense . From turbo actuator to ecu sensor send voltage . But in live data is wrong tranlation . For 2.50 volt live data is 0% (+/-) .
Possible bad ground ? mucking with those key sensor values ,, or Ac noise on the output of the alternator ? bad sensor interfering with sensor loop voltages impacting or interfering with the others on the same sensor bus loop ? if they share a common supply.. unplug the turbo sensor see if it impacts the others ?
I also get a lot of really weird readings from my car/scanner. X-Type with the 2.2L Duratorq engine so there's some Ford in there too. For me I get weird values from the TCM module, like a module voltage of 40-60V for one reading but 0V for the module on the next page, and 14.10V on a different page again. And I get a transmission oil temp (TOT) of -40C for one reading, 17000C for the "measured" TOT reading, and 0C for the "software interpretation" of the TOT. But just like here, the car runs absolutely fine. It seems like Ford have some problems with data interpretation, or with displaying the data to people. With my car I sometimes get a check engine light. When I hook up the scanner, the TCM has an internal error counter and it goes up by 3-4 every time I put it into D, N, P, but I don't know if this is what gives all the crazy readings, or if it's just the cheap scanner, of if it's a completely unrelated issue in the module, like in this video. It's a frustrating problem! And very hard to call a faulty module, especially when the car is running perfectly fine..
@@DoubtingThomas333 My car is unfortunately an X-Type and isn't supported by Forscan, even though it has a lot of "Ford" in it.. From looking online it does seem to partly connect, but I'd be wary of doing anything serious if it's not fully supported. Could brick the ECU or something..
Hi did u ever fix is ive got no power to 1 and 4 injector open cirucut but just about startz ive check all wires looks ok any help i will be greatfull.
Seen it before - unintuitive values. One word, Siemens. I'm pretty sure it's a +/- percentage that is being reported. I've had a few of these ECUs faulty as well. Get in touch with SY Diagnostics. If he doesn't know, nobody will.
Maybe it's a back feed voltage internally to the ECU from a coil and there is some kind of a diode so you wont read the value at the pins. Scanner Danner had some similar case study. In the following video at 25:00. th-cam.com/video/Q8ZwxJYkYnc/w-d-xo.html
A negative voltage is a relative excess of electrons compared to some other point. If 0 V is no voltage. Negative voltage is an excess of electrons and positive voltage is a deficiency of electrons. None the wiser.
I have a 2013 mondeo tdci and I have been having engine malfunction likely due to turbo vanes, I felt the vanes and they was notchy, I have a new turbo to put on. But now I get Anti Skid activation with power loss and engine malfunction and some times cutout and I have to restart the engine. What area are you in for some diagnostics, Are you in the UK at all?
The PID for the vane position feedback is incorrectly displayed on IDS and nearly any other scan tool you'll plug in I chased my tail with a turbo related fault on a mondeo that turned out to be a driver fault with the pcm but what a headache 🤯
we do not search for blown fuses because we have no luck in finding issues so easy :)...we are used to find complicate issues and sometimes we have the mindset on that direction. also so many times someone do the basic checks , etc before us :) anyway in this particular case (in the video) , I think the value of the PID is just a factor , and not a raw value. If system is ok (wiring ,vacuum , turbo solenoid , mechanical parts of the VGT , etc) P003A can be deleted from software (obd read is enough , no need bdm file) and will work just perfect. deleting this DTC in SID206 is not so easy , many tuners can`t do that and P0000 will result if solution applied in not ok. anyway for me Siemens automotive are the worst ECU`s. full of strange issues , prone to a miriade of failures , etc. just look at Renault with the various evolutions with SID XXX , than moved to Delphi DCM3.4 , than ... finally Bosch EDC17C42 and later EDC17C84 proper system :) all the best and thanks for all!
I just drove with mine and suddenly engine went out. I approached to the intersection, clutch down, and engine stalled. Started the car, went fine. Then about 20 seconds later, i went over a speedbump, again, clutch down, and it stalled again. Started the engine again, and i got also Engine Malfunction on the display. I have 2009 car, but no big display in the speedo. There i have the yellow exclamation mark, which stays on, i can get the Engine Malfunction out of the screen by pressing ok, and ESP will stay off, didnt test it but i assume theres no traction control. No engine light.
No wonder you get confused... you didn't yet remove that old plastic sticker that is in front of the uni-t meter display; do it, and your thoughts(and ours lol) will be crystal clear; and i promise you,it won't scratch... That oil around the turbo, 2 things come to mind : 1: pcv system, if clogged,it absolutely will do that, i've fixed many "leaky" turbos that way 2: the turbo oil drainage pipe: this of course is related to 1, (high crankcase internal pressure) but if not free flowing down,oil under pressure from the top will get past the turbo seals,both sides
I have a BMW 528i 2008, the Ccc Stereo turns on and off and cuts off the display and sound and comes back on when the stereo turns on, but doesn’t fully turn back on, could the Ccc be damaged?
Most likely yes... they are known to fail... Do a Google search, there is companies that do repair them... otherwise, a replacement will sort it... Thank you for watching!
Hi luis! Ur great!! I had a similar problem with my fiesta.. got p2121 code.. my pedal sensor is ok. My throttle body is ok .. my ECU is ok . But still i got this code permanent p2121.. got same problem engine malfunction and p2121 code plus low power.. can u tell me what fuse you replaced? Is that a BCM fuse?
lol i fell into that trap last week did the same thing boost problem and air flow meter was reading 50g/s with engine off , air flow circuit A high turns out that sensor is on the manifold , but why is air meter reading 50 g/s
The question I have in mind is what have blown the fuse that you replaced ?? I think the problem will happen again because you didn’t dig on the blown fuse root cause.
@@LMAutoRepairs I have a 2009 mondeo and the radio a cd6000 doesn’t switch on, comes on itself won’t switch off when I switch off the engine intermittently and then the car doesn’t start unless I charge the battery? Ever seen or heard anything like that?
Do you actually have the voice control system? I am just asking, because on some cars that are not fitted with the system, but have the button on the steering wheel, the button actually mutes the audio only... If you do have, scan the car and see what the voice control module reports... Thank you for watching!
Looks like you love working on ECUs? Rather take the ECU apart instead of checking the fuses😀 Why are you not fixing the glowplug DTCs? As far as i know, the DPF can get blocked because it will not regen if there are problems with the glowplugs. Did the customer not want to fix it?
@@LMAutoRepairs Yah I'm so surprised that people at the dealerships when doing warranty repairs didn't report that when these car's where new so I'm still left wondering what exactly did that update do
i fixed this bug today buy repairing the wire to the ac relay. The glow plugs ended up not responding but new wire is going to fix that too. The loom of these fords ar piece of garbage.
My long story short with that code P003A. (Ford Kuga 2.0tdci) Your problem is a sensor. If actuator rod or vanes are not stuck just backprobe signal wire from the sensor with multimeter and it must read in vanes open position (ignition on no vacuum) somewhere around 0,03V close to 0,01V. Everything above 0.1V will trigger the code P003A. My original sensor was reading 0,03V in open position ign on no vacuum but with engine running at idle vacuum applied I was getting only 2.2V so the sensor was bad. So I ordered a new one I think some chinese because I couldnt get the original one I mounted on backprobed the signal wire and the reading was (ign on no vacuum) 0.178V so it automatically triggered P003A (you just cycle ign on off and the code is there if you erase it when engine running it will stay DTC free until you again cycle ign off on). So new one was bad as well. I ordered another brand and finally I got the reading 0,028V no more code when ign on. I see you are getting somewhere around 0,8V when no vacuum so I think that is your problem. When actuator is adjusted correctly it should read 0,01V no vacum to 4.1-4.2V vacuum applied.
Hi I would agree if the codes would still coming back... if you watched the entire video, you will see that the code cleared and did not came back... and the sensor was the same... But appreciate you comment and information, very valuable for the next time I come across something like this... Thank you for watching and for your comment! 👍👍👍
I had the same problem once, the live data for the turbo position had the same crazy readings on the scan tool although the signal voltage looked ok at the pcm when I checked with a multimeter. Someone left me a comment saying that PID is always like that and I should ignore it. Thanks for the video mate
First time for me... lol
Thank you for the info!
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Brilliant repair Luis. Must have been a glitch inherent to the engine ECU software which Ford/Siemens have just ignored through all the years. I highly doubt they will ever fix it, though - don't know if they bother releasing SW updates for what seems like a 2007-2008ish car/system any longer. But the main thing is: you nailed it again, respect!
😊
Thanks!
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Have you got yours fixed somewhere in Hungary Mate?
@@mesidb15My comment was generally meant, I dont own a Ford :) However, I know people here who are very much into fixing ECUs so I know who to turn to.
All the problem was a blown fuse and leaking wastegate pipe took a lot of your time.sometimes values not telling true
Good video thank you louis
Indeed...
It took some time...😊
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Completely normal voltages for data logging vain position on those engines been caught out myself! Mine sat around -55v at idle from memory, keep up the great work!
😊
I now know that... 😋
Thanks, for watching and for your comment!
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Professional person. Do not believe that things are simple
great work
😊
Thank you!
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Great work Luis, congrats 😃👌👍
Thanks!
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Brilliant guide/fix. Watched all of the video. I love your videos
😊
Thanks!
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Love it great fix love the longer videos fords are weird with their fault codes 😊
Indeed they are...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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This appears to be a close ground loop because of a failure in Bat V or similar voltage.
Like the Renault and Citroën do have it in the back lights when they have a ground problem to the rear. The close loop makes the ground appears in parallel Circuits and some lights do "on" when you break or engage rear.
The failure light plus the failure in the fuse may stablish this parasitic ground loop and unbalance the voltage comparators in the ECU.
A few years back the ECU "died" on my Mondeo according to a very reliable mechanic. The car refused to even start up and turned off whilst I was driving at 70mph. So he took it out and sent it to be reconditioned. After 2 weeks the ECU came back with no repair as the reconditioning guys said they found nothing wrong with it. The ECU was plugged back in and the problem never came back 🤔 only conclusion was that maybe it got some water in it and by the time it got checked it had dried out
Possibly...
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Disconnect the windscreen washer motor / fuse. Empty the washer bottle. Well known they leak right onto the ECU and cause dramas, usually killing the ECU if used often enough. Cover the ecu box in silicone spray every few months and do as above or find a way to stop it leaking right onto the ECU, just a design flaw by the bell ends at FORD.
Also, it is in my estimation of probability that the way the drainage system for water through the front vent system is designed, also directs water onto the ECU. 😅
@@DoubtingThomas333 interesting theory! The above issue on my car acted up today after I topped off washer fluid this morning, and drove for 100 miles... you reckon I can expect it to be fine tomorrow? Given a chance to dry overnight..
Having washer fluid and ecu side by side seems a bit daft, indeed. Wonder why they chose to place it there....
I know about the issue that the water travels through the wires due to the washer motor leaking into the plug... goes all the way to the BCM... that is a known issue... direct into the ecu, not sure, never came across that.. but definitely worth checking...
👍👍👍
@@LMAutoRepairs so interestingly enough, after reading Thomas's comment I went out to check my car. First had a look at the infamous F4 which was fine. Then operated the windscreen washer for 20 sec and sure enough, washer fluid dribbled out from the front of the wheel arch. Definitely a leak there, and given it's location more than likely the culprit on my car.
Will have another look tomorrow by daylight, but given I'm on holiday without any tools (will not make that same mistake any time soon, haha) I'll need to improvise....
It looks like a couple of stuck “1” bits in a registry for the FPU (the first bit being the sign, it would always give a negative number). Whether it’s a hardware issue or a programming error, it’s apparently only impacting on the representation and not the implementation of the software (at least not in a visible way). Cheers
Correct...
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No the ecu is definitely faulty, look how high the fuel gauge is reading too.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Well spotted I didn't notice that
Blocked turbo had this issue and paid 90 quid to find this out the turbo brakes again 5 months later
This value is not in voltage but in % . Correct seting turbo actuator is from +50% to -50% ( +/- ) .
Still makes not a lot of sense...
How do they have decided that the boost is -50%?
At that value, I would still see it as a fault...
I have always seen them when in percentage, from 0% to 100%...
If that is correct, is not very intuitive, and Ford just made it really awkward...
I still more adamant that this was a glitch on the ecu software... bug I might be wrong...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
👍👍👍
@@LMAutoRepairs I know is no sense . From turbo actuator to ecu sensor send voltage . But in live data is wrong tranlation . For 2.50 volt live data is 0% (+/-) .
In program "peugeot planet 2000" in peugeot 206 1.1 is wrong translation engine temperature sensor :)
Possible bad ground ? mucking with those key sensor values ,, or Ac noise on the output of the alternator ? bad sensor interfering with sensor loop voltages impacting or interfering with the others on the same sensor bus loop ? if they share a common supply.. unplug the turbo sensor see if it impacts the others ?
My S80 displays the same code. No engine light or dash warning. Weird
Where’s the fuse box? I cant guess it from the video😄
I also get a lot of really weird readings from my car/scanner. X-Type with the 2.2L Duratorq engine so there's some Ford in there too.
For me I get weird values from the TCM module, like a module voltage of 40-60V for one reading but 0V for the module on the next page, and 14.10V on a different page again.
And I get a transmission oil temp (TOT) of -40C for one reading, 17000C for the "measured" TOT reading, and 0C for the "software interpretation" of the TOT.
But just like here, the car runs absolutely fine. It seems like Ford have some problems with data interpretation, or with displaying the data to people.
With my car I sometimes get a check engine light. When I hook up the scanner, the TCM has an internal error counter and it goes up by 3-4 every time I put it into D, N, P, but I don't know if this is what gives all the crazy readings, or if it's just the cheap scanner, of if it's a completely unrelated issue in the module, like in this video.
It's a frustrating problem! And very hard to call a faulty module, especially when the car is running perfectly fine..
😊
👍👍
Only use forscan my friend, everything else doesn't have the IQ built in to know wtf its reading. Yes that means you need to use a laptop.
@@DoubtingThomas333 My car is unfortunately an X-Type and isn't supported by Forscan, even though it has a lot of "Ford" in it.. From looking online it does seem to partly connect, but I'd be wary of doing anything serious if it's not fully supported. Could brick the ECU or something..
Hi did u ever fix is ive got no power to 1 and 4 injector open cirucut but just about startz ive check all wires looks ok any help i will be greatfull.
Faulty ecu?
If wiring is good, the ecu has all the powers and grounds and it not pulsing those two injectors, could be the ecu...
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@@LMAutoRepairs i did think ecu
Seen it before - unintuitive values. One word, Siemens. I'm pretty sure it's a +/- percentage that is being reported. I've had a few of these ECUs faulty as well. Get in touch with SY Diagnostics. If he doesn't know, nobody will.
👍👍👍
Thanks!
Maybe it's a back feed voltage internally to the ECU from a coil and there is some kind of a diode so you wont read the value at the pins. Scanner Danner had some similar case study. In the following video at 25:00.
th-cam.com/video/Q8ZwxJYkYnc/w-d-xo.html
That would make sense especially when it's setting code's
A negative voltage is a relative excess of electrons compared to some other point. If 0 V is no voltage. Negative voltage is an excess of electrons and positive voltage is a deficiency of electrons. None the wiser.
I have a 2013 mondeo tdci and I have been having engine malfunction likely due to turbo vanes, I felt the vanes and they was notchy, I have a new turbo to put on. But now I get Anti Skid activation with power loss and engine malfunction and some times cutout and I have to restart the engine. What area are you in for some diagnostics, Are you in the UK at all?
Good video bro some time's it's happens but anyway we are enjoying
😊
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Good morning my friend how are you?
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Turbo vane reading is the same for me on autel , should be a glitch
Probably...
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The PID for the vane position feedback is incorrectly displayed on IDS and nearly any other scan tool you'll plug in I chased my tail with a turbo related fault on a mondeo that turned out to be a driver fault with the pcm but what a headache 🤯
Indeed an headache...😊
👍👍👍
we do not search for blown fuses because we have no luck in finding issues so easy :)...we are used to find complicate issues and sometimes we have the mindset on that direction. also so many times someone do the basic checks , etc before us :) anyway in this particular case (in the video) , I think the value of the PID is just a factor , and not a raw value. If system is ok (wiring ,vacuum , turbo solenoid , mechanical parts of the VGT , etc) P003A can be deleted from software (obd read is enough , no need bdm file) and will work just perfect. deleting this DTC in SID206 is not so easy , many tuners can`t do that and P0000 will result if solution applied in not ok. anyway for me Siemens automotive are the worst ECU`s. full of strange issues , prone to a miriade of failures , etc. just look at Renault with the various evolutions with SID XXX , than moved to Delphi DCM3.4 , than ... finally Bosch EDC17C42 and later EDC17C84 proper system :) all the best and thanks for all!
😊
👍👍👍
Air flow rate 84 g/s at idle?
I am having a issue with the Ford Mondeo ECU is running and then shut in dong on his own leave a few minutes starred in drive again
My guess right away means +66v not - or 6.6v
Maybe its supposed to be a procents value?
Yes its percentage not voltage
@marty9368
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Good job 😘
Thanks!
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I just drove with mine and suddenly engine went out. I approached to the intersection, clutch down, and engine stalled. Started the car, went fine. Then about 20 seconds later, i went over a speedbump, again, clutch down, and it stalled again. Started the engine again, and i got also Engine Malfunction on the display. I have 2009 car, but no big display in the speedo. There i have the yellow exclamation mark, which stays on, i can get the Engine Malfunction out of the screen by pressing ok, and ESP will stay off, didnt test it but i assume theres no traction control. No engine light.
Hi
Without scanning it, it is a shot in the dark... as you can imagine...
Hope you get it sorted!
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I've got exactly the same problem. Turn off and on then it can go for days without engine malfunction coming up
No wonder you get confused... you didn't yet remove that old plastic sticker that is in front of the uni-t meter display; do it, and your thoughts(and ours lol) will be crystal clear; and i promise you,it won't scratch...
That oil around the turbo, 2 things come to mind :
1: pcv system, if clogged,it absolutely will do that, i've fixed many "leaky" turbos that way
2: the turbo oil drainage pipe: this of course is related to 1, (high crankcase internal pressure) but if not free flowing down,oil under pressure from the top will get past the turbo seals,both sides
😅
I will remove it...
One day...
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Fuck this dude is smart . I wish I was like him wow
😳
Thanks!
Nice you enjoyed the video!
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I have a BMW 528i 2008, the Ccc Stereo turns on and off and cuts off the display and sound and comes back on when the stereo turns on, but doesn’t fully turn back on, could the Ccc be damaged?
Most likely yes... they are known to fail...
Do a Google search, there is companies that do repair them... otherwise, a replacement will sort it...
Thank you for watching!
Hi luis! Ur great!! I had a similar problem with my fiesta.. got p2121 code.. my pedal sensor is ok. My throttle body is ok .. my ECU is ok . But still i got this code permanent p2121.. got same problem engine malfunction and p2121 code plus low power.. can u tell me what fuse you replaced? Is that a BCM fuse?
Yes... was on the BCM... I don't recall now... but you can easily check all your fuses, if any is blown, replace it.
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lol i fell into that trap last week did the same thing boost problem and air flow meter was reading 50g/s with engine off , air flow circuit A high turns out that sensor is on the manifold , but why is air meter reading 50 g/s
We all do from time to time...
😊
The question I have in mind is what have blown the fuse that you replaced ?? I think the problem will happen again because you didn’t dig on the blown fuse root cause.
Possibly...
Nearly one year later, and still going... so...🤷♂️
Thank you for watching!
Body Control Module
Nice work..! So It was the blown fuse..? At fault..?
Looked like...😋
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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@@LMAutoRepairs I have a 2009 mondeo and the radio a cd6000 doesn’t switch on, comes on itself won’t switch off when I switch off the engine intermittently and then the car doesn’t start unless I charge the battery? Ever seen or heard anything like that?
Any help or suggestions from anyone would be great, taking it to garage next week for a diagnostic
Hi
No... never came across that issue...
That said, start with the basics... check ground points, connections, etc...
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@@LMAutoRepairs thanks for the help and responding 👍🏻
I've heard the problem lies in the EGR valve.
Possibly...
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@@LMAutoRepairs I just sold mine and next owner told that error was in egr, he changed it and now runs fine.
Jeremy need your help
Where are you based
Hi when i click on phone button it says audio muted mine is 58 plate - please help - even voice command button is also not working
Do you actually have the voice control system?
I am just asking, because on some cars that are not fitted with the system, but have the button on the steering wheel, the button actually mutes the audio only...
If you do have, scan the car and see what the voice control module reports...
Thank you for watching!
@@LMAutoRepairs yes I have the voice control if I click that also there is nothing
OK...
So, I would scan the car to have a better picture of what is going on...
Obviously, check fuses first... just in case...
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@@LMAutoRepairs how can I check the fises
Looks like you love working on ECUs? Rather take the ECU apart instead of checking the fuses😀
Why are you not fixing the glowplug DTCs? As far as i know, the DPF can get blocked because it will not regen if there are problems with the glowplugs.
Did the customer not want to fix it?
Well guessed...
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I would not have thought a 2008 Mondeo would have a DPF to block up anyway
That's must be very annoying when you're not sure if it's a ghost or a real code
Absolutely!...
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@@LMAutoRepairs Yah I'm so surprised that people at the dealerships when doing warranty repairs didn't report that when these car's where new so I'm still left wondering what exactly did that update do
Great
Thanks!
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I was wondering what it would read in E .O. B .D
Never checked...
Thank you for watching!
@@LMAutoRepairs thanks you for sharing
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Just spent most of the weekend being violated by a Peugeot 207. Starter motor is a complete bitch to get to
"Being violated..."
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Hope you give it back in the end...
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@@LMAutoRepairs lol, will do mate 😂👍
Great 👍
Thanks!
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Which software using for flash
Depends on the ecu...
Kess, k-tag...
i fixed this bug today buy repairing the wire to the ac relay. The glow plugs ended up not responding but new wire is going to fix that too. The loom of these fords ar piece of garbage.
😊
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I wish car manufacturers which stop putting electronics into cars because sometimes it's more hassle than it's worth
Sometimes yes...
Thank you for watching!
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@@LMAutoRepairs you're welcome I am a fully trained and qualified electronics repairs engineer with 20 years experience
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@@simonsmith2802
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My long story short with that code P003A. (Ford Kuga 2.0tdci) Your problem is a sensor. If actuator rod or vanes are not stuck just backprobe signal wire from the sensor with multimeter and it must read in vanes open position (ignition on no vacuum) somewhere around 0,03V close to 0,01V. Everything above 0.1V will trigger the code P003A. My original sensor was reading 0,03V in open position ign on no vacuum but with engine running at idle vacuum applied I was getting only 2.2V so the sensor was bad. So I ordered a new one I think some chinese because I couldnt get the original one I mounted on backprobed the signal wire and the reading was (ign on no vacuum) 0.178V so it automatically triggered P003A (you just cycle ign on off and the code is there if you erase it when engine running it will stay DTC free until you again cycle ign off on). So new one was bad as well. I ordered another brand and finally I got the reading 0,028V no more code when ign on. I see you are getting somewhere around 0,8V when no vacuum so I think that is your problem. When actuator is adjusted correctly it should read 0,01V no vacum to 4.1-4.2V vacuum applied.
Hi
I would agree if the codes would still coming back... if you watched the entire video, you will see that the code cleared and did not came back... and the sensor was the same...
But appreciate you comment and information, very valuable for the next time I come across something like this...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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