I am picking up my brand new camper this friday (1st one!) and the dealership gives you a free night stay in their RV park to use. I have been watching a lot of videos, including yours, and most of them have been super helpful in easing my anxiety and answering any questions I have about this whole thing. Keep doing what you're doing because us amateurs really need the help!
The one thing that I ALWAYS recommend to RVers is when they either purchase a new RV or work on their existing RV, get the Rodent Proof insulating spray (Home Depot), crawl under the RV and fill "ALL" openings tiny or large. I started on the front curb side of my RV and the first time around, I put the foam in the space between the Glacier package bottom layer and the frame. Second pass was starting from the front and filled every opening that I came across. I then caulked many of the small openings (still under the RV) in the space between the fiberglass front and the main part of the RV. There were wide gaps where the Gray and Black tank levers and main drain came through the Glacier package bottom, also the fresh water drains. Oh do not forget around the battery cables that enter the RV. I then found all the entry points inside of the outside fridge equipment area. Then on to the water heater area which had 3 major openings. I made a rubber gasket to fit around the slide out bar openings after I saw how easy it would be for critters to get into the RV and possibly get into the rest of the RV. The final thing that I did was make sure that when the Slide-out is in, or out, EVERY contact point was sealed tight. I also recommend that you should ALWAYS keep your storage compartments closed. While in the Florida Keys at a state park one of the neighbors constantly left his storage door open and ended up with a RAT in side that was at least 10 inches long, less the long tail. Here it is 10 years later in the same RV and never had a critter inside. Wait, I need to correct that there was a tiny frog that came in on our dog once. That was an easy catch.
Great ideas My cats catch and bring all sorts of critters into my TT. Many are dead, but not all of them. I caught one bringing an 18" green garden snake in once. It wasn't hurt, so I took it back outside.
Great ideas My cats catch and bring all sorts of critters into my TT. Many are dead, but not all of them. I caught one bringing an 18" green garden snake in once. It wasn't hurt, so I took it back outside.
All great points! Thank you, but now many manufacturers are no longer supplying manuals for the RVs, they offer PDF files for download on their websites. I'm an RV service writer, many times in the past three years having customers come in with problems with their water heater or heater not igniting or burning poorly and backfiring. This has been due to those screens over the exhaust and air vent. If you have issues remove the screen first and check the appliance before bringing it in for service. The screens cause problems with the air intake or exhaust airflow. Instead of screens, visually check the exhaust for bee nests and blockages before using the appliance. For 5th wheels and TT, always check the torque on your wheels before hooking up to leave. I've had many customers come in with the RV's side and floor torn up from tires that have come off while in travel. Additionally, always check the tire pressure every time you hook up, and once a year clean and grease the wheel bearings. If living in your RV full-time check the water level in your batteries (if they are not sealed) at least twice a year. The constant charging of the battery can make the fluid gass-off and you will have very little water left in the battery. I live in mine full time (4.5 years) and while leaving one morning I smelled fumes and found my two batteries smoking. Until then I religiously checked my batteries each spring and fall. Now I check them more often. Another thing to check is if you have been camping under trees and have a roof exhaust vent for your fridge, check it making sure leaves haven't gotten caught under the vent shroud creating a fire hazard or blocking the exhaust. To satisfy the roof warranty, you must prove the maintenance of the roof. Check your owner's manual for what they require and save your receipts. There is a screw channel that runs on each edge on the top side of your RV, for 5th wheels and TT. You can find it along the roof edge, around doors, and on 5th wheels on each side edge of the nose. It has a plastic cover that inserts over the screws. Over time and depending on the sun and heat these will shrink, twist, and scrunch up. Check those after being in hot weather. This plastic cover helps keep water from getting into your seams through the screws.
Many modern battery chargers have a battery maintaining setting. This isn't a trickle charger, per se, but it helps dissolve the settling at the bottom of your battery cells. That is what makes cells "go bad" by building up and shorting out the cell plates...killing the entire cells ability to function.
No doubt about the key!!! I am a OTR semi driver. I had some extra keys on my key from different trucks I had driven. A guy come up to me asking for a coat hanger locked his keys in truck. I took my Peterbilt key just for the heck of it and it unlocked his Freightliner!!! Unbelievable
In your next video for checking RV problems, you may want to teach your viewers how to check for loose connections in the 12 and 120 volt wiring system. There is not a day that goes by when someone is not asking why their power cord burned up, why the circuit board on their fridge took a dump, or why their AC will not function. Many of those very common problems are found in loose wiring connections in the power panel. I have yet to work on an RV (or sticks & bricks for that matter) where I did not find loose connections. Simple fix that saves tons of problems!
Once you clean your shore power/trailer harness connections, use some dielectric grease on them to prevent future corrosion in the first place. That way you won.t need to clean them nearly as often.
I agree with you Jim, though I think its important to know that dielectric grease can attract dirt, dust and debris, especially on connectors that are constantly being unplugged and open to the environment. It's a different scenario then a connector under the hood of a car that never gets unplugged. thats why cleaning plugs and terminals is extra important, and then applying new dielectric grease after cleanings. Thanks for the comment Jim.
My vote would be for bearings and tires. Know the load and speed rating for your tires. Use a public scale and weigh your rig. Carry an infrared thermometer and check axle temperatures. About every trip I see a trailer on the side of the road with a flat or the wheel and tire missing. Make sure you have a jack that can actually lift your rig. Make sure your towing insurance actually covers truck and trailer, etc. Also helpful to know Height, length, width and weight of your truck and trailer. Some TH-cam channels suggest putting it on a sticker on the inside of your windshield for quick reference.
thanks for all the feedback! all great points. some of these items we have covered in other videos, and some will be included in future videos. appreciate it my friend.
EVERY one of my five factory tires blew out on the road, in the third year with only 6k to 8k miles on them. I'd recommend replacing all of them with Goodyear Endeavor tires at 2 years or 5k Miles, whichever comes first.
Been watching your channel since the beginning. I appreciate all the information and how you get to the point. This same video from a few other channels would be 45 minutes long.
Last year we upgraded to a 32ft bumper pull from a pop up and I've been going thru it. I happened to pull off the ac access panel and it wasn't horrible but it needed to be cleaned. I'm betting this step gets skipped by many people until it's not working.
Here’s an excellent video on coil cleaning. RV AC Coil & Filter Cleaning - Air Conditioner Maintenance Made Easy! th-cam.com/video/5iQp_UOqjdE/w-d-xo.html
You're right. I haven't in the 2 years that we've had our new (2020) Jayco RV trailer. I'll be sure to do that next year before we start using it again. 👍
I like the water off suggestion. I was at a campground and walked past a camper that had water pouring out all over the underside. They must have sprung a leak and it had flooded the trailer. There was no vehicle parked next to it and no one in sight. They were long gone. We shut off the main water supply and notified the park but man I bet they were not happy when they came back!
If you replace your CH75 locks with something else, I recommend removing the finger lever (that curvy little thing you hook with your index finger to lift the door) at the same time. I learned from experience that the lever gives a thief enough leverage to just twist the entire lock assembly since it is just a round cylinder with some flats held in place in a vaguely similar shaped hole in a plastic door. The plastic doesn't resist much if you can twist the whole lock. After my trailer was broken into, I took the lock apart, hacksawed the lever off, and reinstalled without it.
And I wouldn't just pick up the first tubular lock that you find. Generally, the design is one of the easiest to defeat and some are even vulnerable to being quickly opened with a pen cap. Though, still better than a universal key that everyone else has.
Thank you for this comment! I appreciate it because its common sense. Yes, any lock can be defeated. The point is that its less defeatable because everyone in the world has a CH751 key on their keychain. Im glad someone else understands the point. 🍻
Some things you could mention are bringing in your awning at night, when you leave the camper, or when your expecting wind or snow. Bringing in your slides if you can if your expecting snow. Leaving mousetraps in your rv when you won't be in it for awhile. I also use a ceramic car spray on the outside of my windows so it's easier to clean them off. Nice video man.
I find my awning frame is much more stable/stronger if I only roll it out about 3'. That gives some shade (more @ mid-day) and allows the windows/doors to be open on that side of the trailer and keeps rain out. I only extend it dully if I an at the camper. Weather changes quickly and doesn't follow the forecast.
Living full time in our RV (stationary living), I have learned it, or know all these already, but I love watching your videos. They are very well done and very helpful. Thank you for doing what you’re doing.
Check the strainer/filter on the water pump. I've found plastic drill filings from where the factory drilled holes for tank fittings clogging up the filter affecting water flow.
I.m a new subscriber and retired in a 2016 Keystone Hideout, running alone without ex! Great refresher for my "outside duties"! I will park stationary for about one year and printed a free checklist off google. thanks so much, so easy to understand and you take your time. Blessings
We do too, but would fill the gray shower tank 5 times over before we need to dump the black tank, so I’ll leave that open until the day before I need to dump the black tank. Then I’ll close the gray to accumulate water to wash the hose. The. Wife takes long showers lol.
2023 Our first RV. As a retired Electrical/Mechanical HVACR Contractor I do know a great deal about these systems. That said I enjoy learning from anyone. Enjoy the videos and the great community here.
I highly recommend keeping a can of contact cleaner in the storage compartment and hitting the contacts everytime you use the RV. I've never had buildup or needed to replace anything. I've had people warm me about trailer harnesses wearing out, or cords going bad, but with routine maintenance my stuff is holding up great
I have 303 and use it on my tires. Now I know where else to use it. I'm not sure how to keep my roof clean. Part of my problem is that I don't like heights. I can get up but getting down freaks me out. When I am up there though, I clean my solar panels, caulk everything, and enjoy the view! Maybe you already have a video about roof cleaning...I will look. Thanks for these tips.
Could you please make a video on the value (peace of mind) of installing in line shut off vales in RV water lines, especially toilet lines? We have shut off lines everywhere in our homes. Seems like a major oversight to no have them in RVs to provide the same level of protection when isolating & fixing leaks. Sincerely, Grateful New Subscriber
Another point is to know how to hand crank the slide-outs by hand should the motor fail. This usually requires disengaging the clutch and using a wrench to turn the mechanism. Another one is your propane solenoid valve, usually on the tank, you can sometimes insert a resistor to reduce the current draw, since it can drain the battery when boondicking.
A great video topic we can’t find is ‘How to prepare your Rv for storage in a warm climate’ We’re new GD owners retired and store outside in a fairly warm climate (80s in winter and 90s in the summer) You have fantastic informative videos, thank you!
Great Video. I try and take care of my trailer with all the tips you have in your video. I check the roof, grease the wheel bearings, check the brakes but I never knew or heard much about checking the suspension on the trailer. I learnt a lot when I broke a leaf spring and started taking it apart, everything was worn out and very close to breaking. Trailer manufactures install cheap shackles and equalizers with plastic bushings. Every trailer owner should check and replace the cheap shackles with a heavy duty set with brass bushings and wet bolts, could save you a costly repair or worse if a shackle breaks while driving down the highway.
All great content. Friction hinge door problems or hard closing doors when the stricken plates have been adjusted and it takes your kid or wife multiple times to close the door properly. Thanks again
That's one of the reasons why I switched to the Smart Plug system and the EZ connector for hitch plug. Also worried about the water pump draining out my tank so I got this IRVWPC²
That's one of the first things I do on our RV's... change to the Kryptonite locks. I also use 303 on everything I can monthly. Great tips as always! Thanks!
When you were discussing the electrical terminals, it is always a good idea to add some electrical grease to keep the terminals lubricated and prevent corrosion.
definitely, and I discuss dielectric grease in another video, but it is important to understand DG is not an electric conductor. it really shouldnt be applied between terminals. its purpose is to keep oxygen off the part of the terminals that are not connected to each other to act as an insulator. thanks for watching and commenting guys!
Great content as per usual! I treat my seals at least twice per year, I also always verify the caulking on the entire RV and I am on the roof at least 6-8 times per year and I treated it with Dicor rubber roof coating system, and I put coveralls to inspect the undercarriage at least 2 times per year.
This guy is awesome. I will continue to buy stuff and am totally fine with making sure my purchases get you paid! Everything you’ve mentioned has come in handy!
Great video. My wife and I are new to the RV world. We've been camping in our 36 ft. 5th wheel for a couple of years now. 1 Thing I have noticed while watching some of the informational videos online, I've noticed a lot of RV owners are connecting the 5th wheel emergency brake cable to the 5th wheel hitch. I personally connect mine to the bed of my truck. I know it's not likely to happen but if something does happen to the 5th wheel hitch, and the cable is connected to the hitch, the brakes won't engage, and the trailer will continue down the road at speed. I was wondering if this is something I shouldn't be worried about? Continued safe RVing
Great point. I have seen customers pull the brake cable to act as a parking brake. DON'T DO THAT. Also, for TT don't let the cable drag. You can tie a loose knot in the cable, just enough so it's not dragging on the ground. If the trailer comes off the knot will tighten and the brake sets. Don't make it so short that when you turn a corner it pulls the brake.
Great suggestions as always! It’s not necessity (some would call it overkill) but I recommend replacing all plastic PEX fittings with brass ones. It’s maybe a dozen fittings and might cost you $50 total if you have to buy a crimp tool set (which is good to have anyways) but it can save you from thousands of dollars of water damage!
I wouldn’t advise that for everyone though. I’m a plumber down in TX and we avoid brass fittings at all costs because of the high mineral content in the well water and city water alike… While brass fittings have thinner walls than pex fittings and don’t restrict flow as much, they also can corrode in a year or so when exposed to high mineral water so it’s not a good choice for these situations. Also consider all the connections on a water heater. Brass would weigh considerably more in that area alone and with the vibrations on an rv plus corrosion, they could end up breaking off at a joint way before a plastic fitting would. We’ve seen brass more than once leak because of poor water quality so we avoid at all costs where possible . Probably best if both worlds regarding less flow restriction and also keeping the plastic fittings would be the Wirsbo or Uponor expansion fittings but they’re more expensive and require expensive tools to install . If you’re not a plumber you might find it hard to justify the cost. Hope this helps…
@@andrealaphilippe5926 I agree 100%. I'm in Texas area and my 5th wheel is connected to city water all year. Just this past week it started spraying water. Found a pin hole leaking at the inlet wall plate where it had a brass connection. The minerals are through the copper. Thankfully the leak was outside the camper and easily spottable. I'm glad the rest is pex.
We are full time RV'ers, have been for the last two years, in a colder climate, while we build our retirement home. Bug screens are a must. I went to fire our furnace in the fall and it wouldn't ignite. I ended up having to pull the burner out and clean all the dead bugs out of it before getting the furnace to work. I also pay attention to the 12 volt DC side and batteries, Switching them off with a disconnect switch or pulling the negative terminal if I'm on "shore power" and charge them one day a week to avoid overcharging and burning up expensive batteries. Checking batteries, especially if you are running two 12 volt batteries in parallel. If one battery goes bad your converter will overcharge and burn up the good battery. I run with two 6 volt batteries in series so there is less chance of a bad battery causing the good one to go bad too, plus I get extra capacity from the two 6 volt batteries. RV'ing actually requires a lot more maintenance than a normal home.
Great video!! I would like to see all aspects of caulking and sealing removing old caulking and installing new and types of caulking for the specific applications 🙂
Always enjoy your videos. Thank you. Regarding fire extinguishers, beyond checking the gauge or nozzle for obstructions….ever wonder what NFPA 12 is? Labels typically state “Maintain in accordance with NAPA12. The interpretation is: “Once the unit reaches its twelfth year of service, replace or re-certify. The white ones are disposable. The red ones may be re-certified. 😊
Would love to see a video on diesel & reading the dash, control systems & driving trips. Going from gas to diesel is an amazing change & some helpful tips on the gauges, controls, and overall handling would be very helpful.
your timing is perfect... we just went from a 1/2 gasser to a 1 ton diesel and Im learning myself... it wont be for a while but something definitely down the road.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS Well, our learning began on Monday & 7 hour trip home was quite the learning experience. So much more to know before we start our travels. We'll be watching for your new post. The Freightliner dealer has offered to go over it with us, but any suggestions where we might find something on it now would be helpful...... Thanks K & D
Good info on the barrel locks. I changed to those as soon as we got our RV. Great company, as well. All tips you mention here, I have done from the beginning. Including top notch products. I hope many people see this video. Good job!
I don't know if this has been covered before, on the first time subscriber. But I would add something about a pressure regulator on the water input system. I learned my lesson the hard way. I currently have repair bill that is north of $500 to replace some plumbing, minor, and a hot water heater that burst with over pressurized campground water. Of course, I now have a regulator on this RV, but it's too late to avoid the cost of repair bill for me.
Appreciate the show. The different types of RV caulk (not fm big box). I use geocell. 303 is expensive. I try to use 3in1 rubber conditioner on seals except where there's sun exposure, then 303.
It’s good that you give options. I’ll probably go with the CRC but I know others that use the other cleaners you mentioned. Thanks for another great video.
I'm glad I found you. You are so good at explaining everything, and using diagrams of what you're referring to really helps even more. After watching a few videos I subscribed to your channel and newsletter. Thank you for taking time out of your RV travel days to make these helpful videos and sharing. 😊
In addition to cleaning your cord ends, I add dielectric grease to the contacts. especially on the vehicals connection and especially when storing for the winter. This will prevent water and corrosives from even coming in contact with the metal. Keep in mind that this can be messy if you are having to handle your cords a lot.
Thank you for info. Shutting the water off before leaving your campsite is overlooked by many. We had people camped next to us have a major flood whike they were gone. We turned the water off and had the rv park contact them. They had a huge mess!
Very informative. I'd add something that someone once mentioned to me: wheel bearing grease can sometimes heat up, while the RV is parked in the sun, to the point where it will run out of the wheel bearing. Our trailer has been parked in the yard for a month, with one side facing south, and I just checked the bearings on that side. Sure enough, the grease had started to puddle at the bottom of the bearing. I'll check the north side when we pull in the slide before departure next week.
When you turn off the water while you are gone, I would have opened both sides of the Y connector to relieve the back pressure from the system. I use that trick when switching valve positions on my Nautilis system so they are not under pressure while being changed.
thats a great idea, but it will only relieve pressure up to the panel IF the panel has a check valve at the connection point. I dont have a Nautilus panel, but I believe most of them do. so there would still be pressure after the panel in the RV plumbing I believe... however its a great thought, and I think the better option is to open one of your sink faucets for a few seconds, which will relieve the pressure in the RV plumbing. your thoughts?
I do have one sink that does drain into my blackwater tank, but I consider it a plus. After draining my blackwater tank, I close the black water valve and turn on the tap at that sink. I let the water run for 20 to 25 minutes being sure not to over fill my blackwater tank. Then I flush it again. (Sometimes more than once) This really helps remove solids that may not have been removed on the first dump. After it's dumped then I run the sink for another five minutes (valve closed) so that I have a water level in the tank to start breaking down solids right after it is emptied. Also, before I hit the road, I dump the tank, add my five minutes of water, then right before I leave my camp site,I dump a bag of ice in the toilet so that bumps in the road help the ice further clean the inside of the tank. Some people add a little dishwashing soap and lemon juice. (don't add lemon pieces) I usually let the ice do the work itself and don't mess with the soap. We've been full-timing in this coach for more than a decade without any blackwater tank issues.
I don't have a sink that drains into my black tank, but after emptying, I place a dumbell on my toilet foot lever and fill the tank and empty again. Sometimes, twice to clear the sensors.
I work as a service writer at an rv place. Spring when opening many of my calls are people having problems with their slides opening. And at opening many call in and say "I have no hot water". Better explanations for troubleshooting these 2 items woukd be great! Love your videos! I can learn lots from you!
I’m camping now, and I noticed mice in my trailer and outside kitchen. The first time ever. I have a GD311bhs. They were coming in on the rod attached to my kitchen slide out. When you look at it, you can see inside the underbelly. From there they walked up the heating duct tubes and into the trailer. I happen to have some foil tape for ducts in my tool box and closed up the hole. I didn’t attach the tape to the rod, but rather just closed up the hole against the frame. When the slide comes in, if it needs more space, it’ll just tear the tape a bit and I can seal it next time. Now the mice can’t gain access to my underbelly.
Roof plumbing vents and the AC cover are a prime place for wasp nests. I found one in a roof vent and removed it. You can make a wire screen cover or buy screened vent replacements. Also check the roof vents for pipe extension length, if the pipe is too long it will touch the top cover and not vent. Use a hacksaw blade to cut the pipe. I will also install an AC cover for when my RV is in storage/not being used. Its not designed to be driven. We have a sink faucet handle that opened when traveling and dumped water into the RV. I now use a small bungee cord to keep it shut.
1 issue that was never covered in how to winterize your gray water tank. You should do a final dump after you add qlycol. What water was in your system will sit in the discharge portion of your tank and freeze during the winter and cracks your pipe. Not that it happened to me. 😉
I think you are commenting on the wrong video. We abolutely address this in our winterzing video. This is not a winterizing video, its just a few tips.
Hello. AGAIN, amazing content and advice for RV travellers. Now: an idea for you to review: Can you look into the usage of water from the tanks - anything out there for safe water drinking from the fresh water tank? Thanks for the very informative videos. You are one GREAT ressource for us! Rémi (Canada)
For my water heater, I use aluminum screening that I form fitted to the cover and then glued the screen to it. I have never found any bugs or mice in it. It can probably be done to a lot of other areas.
Yep, lots of materials available to make DIY screens too. I'd also agree there are plenty of spots on an RV that could be screened off. Thanks for watching and commenting.
More great info! My winter storage tips. All cupboard drawers and closet doors cracked open a bit. On the dining table we use Stor Dry warm air circulator, as we have shore power. Also for shore and non we also use a few Dry Z air containers( do not touch the grains or liquid to skin) Also 1 window open about an inch for the trailer to at least breathe a little. Cheap hardware store window lock. Obviously never leave any food or liquid over winter. On spring return we check feel all the walls and ceiling everywhere, closets etc in case of water damage. Also spend 200 on a manometer to test your gas system for leaks, or hire a qualified, or go to a plumbing joint and buy a manometer gauge and hose and connections for 25 if you understand gas leak detection. I was in the RV industry for several years uh ‘back in the day’.
Love all your videos as they are helpful for me when going RV'ing. I bought my RV (Retro 135) last year, bought a lot of the stuff you recommended. Also last year, in order to protect my investment, I purchased a Eevelle s2 expedition cover. Only had this cover on from maybe November until recently. Im sadly disappointed, only because some sort of rodent ate a lot of the fabric. No where when researching about RV covers did anyone mention the possibility that this could happen. I would have assumed that the fabric would have been treated with some kind of anti repellent. If you have any tips or suggestions Im totally open to hearing them in one of your videos, as this was over $350 wasted dollars.
Thanks for the nice comment Todd... I actually stopped using covers probably 4 or 5 years ago. I never really saw a benefit other than keeping UV rays on the RV. There are mixed opinions on covers, some like them, some will never use one. I'm not really in either camp but I would imagine they might actually trap moisture. Its a tough one to answer, and an even tougher video to make comparing them... I'm thinking about builidng 2 small sections of roofing materials and letting both of them sit outside for a year. one covered, one not, then making that video in a year. Sorry, I dont have a good answer for you, well I do, but it involves buying a car port to keep it covered, or even a pole barn/large garage, but thats way above the cost of a cover.
I used to work at an RV sales and repair shop, we replaced a lot of refrigerator's, because they sat idle, chemicals used in refrigerant corroded pipes and leaked out, causing an ammonia smell
Shut your hot water off during the day. Safe the gas. Shut your fresh pump off during driving. I’ve had it when my pump kicked in and couldn’t prime because I was driving and it wouldn’t build air pressure. Even though it was primed before I left. If you are in the session after dumping add 5 gal of fresh water and dish soap to the black tank. It’ll prevent the poop Pyramid and keep the sensors accurate.
Great tips Ross! I second your advice on the contact cleaner. I keep a can under the backseat. Once fixed an auto level problem just by spraying the low voltage contacts of the system. Also in the fuse box of the truck. Had a fuel pump fuse that just needed the contacts cleaned. Truck started right up!
I would like overview of fixing bottom of trailer plasticcord, whatever it is? I had my sagg and had to introduce more screws to fix. Any better options? Also, slide out bearings. I hear squeaks off and on and have oiled. Thx for content and good video.
Having many RV’s over the years none of this was new. However, you presented it in a way it was still enjoyable to watch. I liked and subscribed and will check out some of your other videos.
I really appreciate this comment because believe it or not, I spend a lot of time trying to make these videos enjoyable for everyone. Thank you so much!
Can you comment on traction control? I just bought a 24' travel trailer with a load leveler & antisway bars. After towing a while, I got a message to service my traction control. I'm thinking it's best to disable it while towing.
I’ve noticed you have a little remote\beverage holder next to your theater seats where could I get something similar? Thanks in advance, love the videos I’ve learned a lot from them.
We have had several RV's, and every one has had multiple water leaks in the plumbing. All but one were loose fitting nuts where the supply lines connect to a faucet, toilet, shower, outside kitchen etc. At least twice a season, you should go around and hand tighten every one of these fittings. I know it's a pain to access shower and water heater fittings, but we have had leaks into walls and floors from both of them. These leaks were all on newer RV's usually under warranty. But who wants their RV in the shop for weeks when you can fix the problem yourself.
3 basic but important tips. When connecting and disconnecting "shore power" ensure the breakers at the pedistal are all off. Verify all are off to protect the next person. I saw someone plug in their cable which caused an arc, luckily they didn't get shocked. 2. Before dumping tanks verify all dump valves are shut. A somewhat common practical joke is when a teenage (or adult) will open a valve on someone else's RV. When they remove the cap they end up with a firehouse shot of hopefully grey water in their face. 3. Never leave awnings out while unattended (even a few minutes). EVEN if your awning has a wind detector. A sudden unexpected gust of wind can and will rip an awning off. Once during a sudden wind storm I saw my "neighbor" and his wife fighting to close their awning. I offered to help and they were greatful. Shortly after I grabbed the extended awning there was a string gust that pulled me off the ground (I'm a 270 pound man) and ripped the awning bolts out of his class A. After that gust he was finally able to retract his awning. This senior couple was extremely "lucky" that afternoon. They didn't loose that awning and the large Douglas Fir that fell on the driver's side can only be called a miracle. I literally can not explain how this tree fell and did no damage. The tree originally stood about 3 foot from the rear driver's side corner of his rig. It was about 4 foot wide and likely over 150 foot high. The tree fell between the RV and the shore power pedastal. It didn't hit the pedastal, didn't damage the water faucet, shore power cable or even scratch his rig. Somehow the tree came to a rest under his driver's side slideout. As the tree fell it stripped every branch from another tree that was about 10 foot from his SUV parked in front of his class A. From my campsite the pile of large branches looked like a tree fell on his car. This branch pile was about 7-8 foot tall. Besides his awning damage nothing else was scratched. At the time the tree fell, his wife was on the sofa that was in the driver's side slideout. Yet neither knew the tree fell. When she saw that tree she turned white and started shaking. She knew that the tree falling less than a foot towards the slide out would have meant a destroyed RV and probably severe damage or worse to her.
Always retract your awning when you leave your campsite. I've seen many an awning get ripped off the side of a camper due to a quick pop-up thunderstorm.
I will see what I can do. Stuff like that is hard since my rv only has 1 type, and there are multiple others. I need a boneyard of rvs to cover everything lol.
Don't have an RV. However, I do lots of work om RV's that my boss owns. I'll point him this way. ALSO, back in 2012 my Mom moved onto my property so she would be near to help if/when she needed it. The RV she was in did not have jacks that could support the weight. Lost of rocking in the wind and even when walking around inside. SO, being somewhat of an auto nut and having some construction skills, I decided to put it on jackstands, on the frame. Long story short, it was as solid as a rock after that. I would suggest doing that for long term living.
Here's a bit of knowledge that the used car sellers don't want you to know; every two years or so rub some Honda Shin-Etsu grease on all the rubber seals. Now the interesting part; when you trade in your old car because the electric windows no longer operate and you get quoted hundreds of dollars for new operators, the used car guys rub a little Shin-Etsu grease on the rubber seals, and the windows more often than not work like new. Leaks around the sun roof? Leaks around the Jeep Freedom Panels? Rubber boots on suspension parts cracking? One tube of Shin-Etsu will treat all your vehicles for many years. Almost forgot, Amazon sells it, Honda dealers sell it.
You can turn it on all the time. It will only power up when the water falls below the temperature it’s set for. You should have it off when you’re not using the RV.
Before you travel down the road, release the pressure in your water system, just open a kitchen sink faucet, this also helps you make sure your pump is off.
I use Murphys oil soap. its not just for wood. i usually mix about 16 ounces with 5 gallons of water in a bucket and use a soft brush. Here are the links to what I use: soap: amzn.to/3UmBMBf brush: amzn.to/3Qo2yIi
Thanks for your video's , we need more like this because most of the viewers are newbies don't know much or people who know nothing about RVs , so we need more technical videos contain practical knowledge.
@7:55 - addition! Shut off the main spigot, but then BEFORE you shut off the valve of the Y to your RV, flip the other valve open. That will dump all the line pressure onto the ground. With the volume in the pipes... it might only be ~30psi, but that's still potential for a huge mess to come back to.
We are getting ready to winterize our camper and staying it for the whole winter. We are going to put up foam board skirting for insulation on the underbelly. I would like to know what kind of tape is commonly used to hold it in place and does it leave a nasty residue when you’re ready to remove it after winter?
This is very valuable user information. Thank you for taking time out of your busy schedule to share this information. As we enter into the winter season, my concern is winter freezing of my water lines. I'm now to camping and have really enjoyed the outdoor adventure. My travel trailer isn't used as much but my family and I do intent on camping during colder days months. Should I leave my furnance in operation during colder nights to prevent the pipes from freezing? Should I dump my freshwater tank as well until needed? I live in south Louiniana. Thank you again for sharing this video. God Bless.
Great tips thanks. BUT, I keep my grey tank valve closed so I can use the grey water to flush the hose after emptying the black tank.
I am picking up my brand new camper this friday (1st one!) and the dealership gives you a free night stay in their RV park to use. I have been watching a lot of videos, including yours, and most of them have been super helpful in easing my anxiety and answering any questions I have about this whole thing. Keep doing what you're doing because us amateurs really need the help!
glad to help my friend!
The one thing that I ALWAYS recommend to RVers is when they either purchase a new RV or work on their existing RV, get the Rodent Proof insulating spray (Home Depot), crawl under the RV and fill "ALL" openings tiny or large. I started on the front curb side of my RV and the first time around, I put the foam in the space between the Glacier package bottom layer and the frame. Second pass was starting from the front and filled every opening that I came across. I then caulked many of the small openings (still under the RV) in the space between the fiberglass front and the main part of the RV. There were wide gaps where the Gray and Black tank levers and main drain came through the Glacier package bottom, also the fresh water drains. Oh do not forget around the battery cables that enter the RV.
I then found all the entry points inside of the outside fridge equipment area. Then on to the water heater area which had 3 major openings. I made a rubber gasket to fit around the slide out bar openings after I saw how easy it would be for critters to get into the RV and possibly get into the rest of the RV. The final thing that I did was make sure that when the Slide-out is in, or out, EVERY contact point was sealed tight. I also recommend that you should ALWAYS keep your storage compartments closed. While in the Florida Keys at a state park one of the neighbors constantly left his storage door open and ended up with a RAT in side that was at least 10 inches long, less the long tail.
Here it is 10 years later in the same RV and never had a critter inside. Wait, I need to correct that there was a tiny frog that came in on our dog once. That was an easy catch.
Good idea 👍
Great tips. By the way the frog got "a free ride" 🤣
Thanks for sharing Donald.
Great ideas
My cats catch and bring all sorts of critters into my TT. Many are dead, but not all of them. I caught one bringing an 18" green garden snake in once. It wasn't hurt, so I took it back outside.
Great ideas
My cats catch and bring all sorts of critters into my TT. Many are dead, but not all of them. I caught one bringing an 18" green garden snake in once. It wasn't hurt, so I took it back outside.
All great points! Thank you, but now many manufacturers are no longer supplying manuals for the RVs, they offer PDF files for download on their websites. I'm an RV service writer, many times in the past three years having customers come in with problems with their water heater or heater not igniting or burning poorly and backfiring. This has been due to those screens over the exhaust and air vent. If you have issues remove the screen first and check the appliance before bringing it in for service. The screens cause problems with the air intake or exhaust airflow. Instead of screens, visually check the exhaust for bee nests and blockages before using the appliance. For 5th wheels and TT, always check the torque on your wheels before hooking up to leave. I've had many customers come in with the RV's side and floor torn up from tires that have come off while in travel. Additionally, always check the tire pressure every time you hook up, and once a year clean and grease the wheel bearings. If living in your RV full-time check the water level in your batteries (if they are not sealed) at least twice a year. The constant charging of the battery can make the fluid gass-off and you will have very little water left in the battery. I live in mine full time (4.5 years) and while leaving one morning I smelled fumes and found my two batteries smoking. Until then I religiously checked my batteries each spring and fall. Now I check them more often. Another thing to check is if you have been camping under trees and have a roof exhaust vent for your fridge, check it making sure leaves haven't gotten caught under the vent shroud creating a fire hazard or blocking the exhaust. To satisfy the roof warranty, you must prove the maintenance of the roof. Check your owner's manual for what they require and save your receipts. There is a screw channel that runs on each edge on the top side of your RV, for 5th wheels and TT. You can find it along the roof edge, around doors, and on 5th wheels on each side edge of the nose. It has a plastic cover that inserts over the screws. Over time and depending on the sun and heat these will shrink, twist, and scrunch up. Check those after being in hot weather. This plastic cover helps keep water from getting into your seams through the screws.
Thank you for your excellent info . Two thumbs up 👍
😊
Good Stuff, Thanks Bunches...
Thanks Janet, I will definitely check that plastic channel cover now!
Many modern battery chargers have a battery maintaining setting. This isn't a trickle charger, per se, but it helps dissolve the settling at the bottom of your battery cells. That is what makes cells "go bad" by building up and shorting out the cell plates...killing the entire cells ability to function.
No doubt about the key!!! I am a OTR semi driver. I had some extra keys on my key from different trucks I had driven. A guy come up to me asking for a coat hanger locked his keys in truck. I took my Peterbilt key just for the heck of it and it unlocked his Freightliner!!! Unbelievable
its a mass produced world now, unfortunately.
In your next video for checking RV problems, you may want to teach your viewers how to check for loose connections in the 12 and 120 volt wiring system. There is not a day that goes by when someone is not asking why their power cord burned up, why the circuit board on their fridge took a dump, or why their AC will not function. Many of those very common problems are found in loose wiring connections in the power panel. I have yet to work on an RV (or sticks & bricks for that matter) where I did not find loose connections. Simple fix that saves tons of problems!
Guy, completely agree... the majority of fires are from loose connections, which equates to current loss, resistance increase, heat and then fire.
Yes!
Once you clean your shore power/trailer harness connections, use some dielectric grease on them to prevent future corrosion in the first place. That way you won.t need to clean them nearly as often.
I agree with you Jim, though I think its important to know that dielectric grease can attract dirt, dust and debris, especially on connectors that are constantly being unplugged and open to the environment. It's a different scenario then a connector under the hood of a car that never gets unplugged. thats why cleaning plugs and terminals is extra important, and then applying new dielectric grease after cleanings. Thanks for the comment Jim.
My vote would be for bearings and tires. Know the load and speed rating for your tires. Use a public scale and weigh your rig. Carry an infrared thermometer and check axle temperatures. About every trip I see a trailer on the side of the road with a flat or the wheel and tire missing. Make sure you have a jack that can actually lift your rig. Make sure your towing insurance actually covers truck and trailer, etc.
Also helpful to know Height, length, width and weight of your truck and trailer. Some TH-cam channels suggest putting it on a sticker on the inside of your windshield for quick reference.
thanks for all the feedback! all great points. some of these items we have covered in other videos, and some will be included in future videos. appreciate it my friend.
Great point, also check the tire's age by looking at the code on its side. Old tires don't always show cracks. Google search for deciphering the code.
EVERY one of my five factory tires blew out on the road, in the third year with only 6k to 8k miles on them. I'd recommend replacing all of them with Goodyear Endeavor tires at 2 years or 5k Miles, whichever comes first.
Been watching your channel since the beginning. I appreciate all the information and how you get to the point. This same video from a few other channels would be 45 minutes long.
Since you asked, I would urge owners to clean there air conditioner coils. Too many people don’t do it.
Last year we upgraded to a 32ft bumper pull from a pop up and I've been going thru it. I happened to pull off the ac access panel and it wasn't horrible but it needed to be cleaned. I'm betting this step gets skipped by many people until it's not working.
Here’s an excellent video on coil cleaning. RV AC Coil & Filter Cleaning - Air Conditioner Maintenance Made Easy!
th-cam.com/video/5iQp_UOqjdE/w-d-xo.html
Here is a video for that: RV AC Coil & Filter Cleaning - Air Conditioner Maintenance Made Easy!
th-cam.com/video/5iQp_UOqjdE/w-d-xo.html
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS thank you!
You're right. I haven't in the 2 years that we've had our new (2020) Jayco RV trailer. I'll be sure to do that next year before we start using it again. 👍
I like the water off suggestion. I was at a campground and walked past a camper that had water pouring out all over the underside. They must have sprung a leak and it had flooded the trailer. There was no vehicle parked next to it and no one in sight. They were long gone. We shut off the main water supply and notified the park but man I bet they were not happy when they came back!
Good on ya for shutting the water off and letting the campground know.
Ditto!
I wouldn't mind seeing more slide maintenance and alignment videos. Also gel coat repair. Thanks for the helpful information!
I agree, great topics, hard to cover 2 of them until I have the alignment issues or gel coat damage unfortunately. Let me see what I can do.
I second the slide out maintenance. I’m looking at possibly having to replace the motors on mine.
If you replace your CH75 locks with something else, I recommend removing the finger lever (that curvy little thing you hook with your index finger to lift the door) at the same time. I learned from experience that the lever gives a thief enough leverage to just twist the entire lock assembly since it is just a round cylinder with some flats held in place in a vaguely similar shaped hole in a plastic door. The plastic doesn't resist much if you can twist the whole lock. After my trailer was broken into, I took the lock apart, hacksawed the lever off, and reinstalled without it.
good point Scott, thanks for adding.
I'm sorry I'm slow to understand. Which part needs to be removed?
Most of those type locks can be opened with a flat screwdriver.
And I wouldn't just pick up the first tubular lock that you find. Generally, the design is one of the easiest to defeat and some are even vulnerable to being quickly opened with a pen cap. Though, still better than a universal key that everyone else has.
Thank you for this comment! I appreciate it because its common sense. Yes, any lock can be defeated. The point is that its less defeatable because everyone in the world has a CH751 key on their keychain. Im glad someone else understands the point. 🍻
Most of what you taught me is irrelevant to my camper, but some of it fit nicely.
It's all very good insight to RV life. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Some things you could mention are bringing in your awning at night, when you leave the camper, or when your expecting wind or snow. Bringing in your slides if you can if your expecting snow. Leaving mousetraps in your rv when you won't be in it for awhile. I also use a ceramic car spray on the outside of my windows so it's easier to clean them off. Nice video man.
All good tips, thanks for sharing!
I find my awning frame is much more stable/stronger if I only roll it out about 3'. That gives some shade (more @ mid-day) and allows the windows/doors to be open on that side of the trailer and keeps rain out. I only extend it dully if I an at the camper. Weather changes quickly and doesn't follow the forecast.
When hooking up or disconnecting from a power pedestal always turn off your main breaker first to avoid damaging appliances or electronics.
Living full time in our RV (stationary living), I have learned it, or know all these already, but I love watching your videos. They are very well done and very helpful. Thank you for doing what you’re doing.
I appreciate that comment.. I hope people watch just because they enjoy the video. Thank you.
Check the strainer/filter on the water pump. I've found plastic drill filings from where the factory drilled holes for tank fittings clogging up the filter affecting water flow.
Yep, I mention that in one of our hacks videos. Thanks Eddie!
Best way to maintain a good working AC unit is a idea and the best way to keep your camper warm during ice cold weather
thanks Jerry, added to my "to do" list
I.m a new subscriber and retired in a 2016 Keystone Hideout, running alone without ex! Great refresher for my "outside duties"! I will park stationary for about one year and printed a free checklist off google. thanks so much, so easy to understand and you take your time. Blessings
That is awesome!
We never keep grey tank open. I flush it after the black to rinse the flex hose
We do too, but would fill the gray shower tank 5 times over before we need to dump the black tank, so I’ll leave that open until the day before I need to dump the black tank. Then I’ll close the gray to accumulate water to wash the hose. The. Wife takes long showers lol.
2023 Our first RV. As a retired Electrical/Mechanical HVACR Contractor I do know a great deal about these systems. That said I enjoy learning from anyone. Enjoy the videos and the great community here.
aboslutely, we can all learn from each other to make the RV life easier and more enjoyable!
Solar maintenance? 12 volt refrigerator maintenance? Great information.
you probably wont see much solar info on this channel, but 12 volt fridge info will be coming soon.
303 on all plastic and rubber including the tires. Great product that I've been using for a long time.
yea i love it too.
I highly recommend keeping a can of contact cleaner in the storage compartment and hitting the contacts everytime you use the RV. I've never had buildup or needed to replace anything.
I've had people warm me about trailer harnesses wearing out, or cords going bad, but with routine maintenance my stuff is holding up great
good to see there are other folks as crazy about maintenance as I am! Thanks for watching my friend.
I have 303 and use it on my tires. Now I know where else to use it.
I'm not sure how to keep my roof clean. Part of my problem is that I don't like heights.
I can get up but getting down freaks me out.
When I am up there though, I clean my solar panels, caulk everything, and enjoy the view!
Maybe you already have a video about roof cleaning...I will look. Thanks for these tips.
stay tuned, will be releasing one eventually!
Wish there was a roof hatch that I could climb through!
Could you please make a video on the value (peace of mind) of installing in line shut off vales in RV water lines, especially toilet lines? We have shut off lines everywhere in our homes. Seems like a major oversight to no have them in RVs to provide the same level of protection when isolating & fixing leaks. Sincerely, Grateful New Subscriber
Thanks Jeff, something I will probably be doing soon!
Another point is to know how to hand crank the slide-outs by hand should the motor fail. This usually requires disengaging the clutch and using a wrench to turn the mechanism. Another one is your propane solenoid valve, usually on the tank, you can sometimes insert a resistor to reduce the current draw, since it can drain the battery when boondicking.
thanks for adding to the video David.
A great video topic we can’t find is ‘How to prepare your Rv for storage in a warm climate’ We’re new GD owners retired and store outside in a fairly warm climate (80s in winter and 90s in the summer) You have fantastic informative videos, thank you!
Great suggestion!
Great Video. I try and take care of my trailer with all the tips you have in your video. I check the roof, grease the wheel bearings, check the brakes but I never knew or heard much about checking the suspension on the trailer. I learnt a lot when I broke a leaf spring and started taking it apart, everything was worn out and very close to breaking. Trailer manufactures install cheap shackles and equalizers with plastic bushings. Every trailer owner should check and replace the cheap shackles with a heavy duty set with brass bushings and wet bolts, could save you a costly repair or worse if a shackle breaks while driving down the highway.
Thanks for sharing Kevin.
All great content. Friction hinge door problems or hard closing doors when the stricken plates have been adjusted and it takes your kid or wife multiple times to close the door properly. Thanks again
thanks for watching!
That's one of the reasons why I switched to the Smart Plug system and the EZ connector for hitch plug. Also worried about the water pump draining out my tank so I got this IRVWPC²
nice
That's one of the first things I do on our RV's... change to the Kryptonite locks. I also use 303 on everything I can monthly. Great tips as always! Thanks!
I heard that most silicon products will eventually be harmful to rubberized material. Best product is soapy water and scrub! Your thoughts?
did not know kryptonite made rv locks?
thanks for watching
303 is not silicone based, its water based.
me neither
I’m learning so much! I just got my first RV (used) and doing a full assessment with your help!! Thanks, and getting those pads now!
Glad to help!
When you were discussing the electrical terminals, it is always a good idea to add some electrical grease to keep the terminals lubricated and prevent corrosion.
definitely, and I discuss dielectric grease in another video, but it is important to understand DG is not an electric conductor. it really shouldnt be applied between terminals. its purpose is to keep oxygen off the part of the terminals that are not connected to each other to act as an insulator. thanks for watching and commenting guys!
Great content as per usual! I treat my seals at least twice per year, I also always verify the caulking on the entire RV and I am on the roof at least 6-8 times per year and I treated it with Dicor rubber roof coating system, and I put coveralls to inspect the undercarriage at least 2 times per year.
Same here, thanks bud!
This guy is awesome. I will continue to buy stuff and am totally fine with making sure my purchases get you paid! Everything you’ve mentioned has come in handy!
thanks for the comment my friend, and glad to have you here. using our links keeps the lights on and the cameras rolling, so thank you!
Great video. My wife and I are new to the RV world. We've been camping in our 36 ft. 5th wheel for a couple of years now. 1 Thing I have noticed while watching some of the informational videos online, I've noticed a lot of RV owners are connecting the 5th wheel emergency brake cable to the 5th wheel hitch. I personally connect mine to the bed of my truck. I know it's not likely to happen but if something does happen to the 5th wheel hitch, and the cable is connected to the hitch, the brakes won't engage, and the trailer will continue down the road at speed. I was wondering if this is something I shouldn't be worried about? Continued safe RVing
i agree, same goes on a trailer, should be connected to the truck if youre following the same logic. thanks for watching and commenting Bradley.
Great point. I have seen customers pull the brake cable to act as a parking brake. DON'T DO THAT. Also, for TT don't let the cable drag. You can tie a loose knot in the cable, just enough so it's not dragging on the ground. If the trailer comes off the knot will tighten and the brake sets. Don't make it so short that when you turn a corner it pulls the brake.
Great suggestions as always! It’s not necessity (some would call it overkill) but I recommend replacing all plastic PEX fittings with brass ones. It’s maybe a dozen fittings and might cost you $50 total if you have to buy a crimp tool set (which is good to have anyways) but it can save you from thousands of dollars of water damage!
I would agree that’s a good plan!
I wouldn’t advise that for everyone though.
I’m a plumber down in TX and we avoid brass fittings at all costs because of the high mineral content in the well water and city water alike…
While brass fittings have thinner walls than pex fittings and don’t restrict flow as much, they also can corrode in a year or so when exposed to high mineral water so it’s not a good choice for these situations.
Also consider all the connections on a water heater. Brass would weigh considerably more in that area alone and with the vibrations on an rv plus corrosion, they could end up breaking off at a joint way before a plastic fitting would.
We’ve seen brass more than once leak because of poor water quality so we avoid at all costs where possible .
Probably best if both worlds regarding less flow restriction and also keeping the plastic fittings would be the Wirsbo or Uponor expansion fittings but they’re more expensive and require expensive tools to install . If you’re not a plumber you might find it hard to justify the cost.
Hope this helps…
@@andrealaphilippe5926 I agree 100%. I'm in Texas area and my 5th wheel is connected to city water all year. Just this past week it started spraying water. Found a pin hole leaking at the inlet wall plate where it had a brass connection. The minerals are through the copper. Thankfully the leak was outside the camper and easily spottable. I'm glad the rest is pex.
Have you tried WD40 Spray for cleaning electrical connections and fittings. That's what it was originally created to do.
@@andrealaphilippe592610
We are full time RV'ers, have been for the last two years, in a colder climate, while we build our retirement home.
Bug screens are a must. I went to fire our furnace in the fall and it wouldn't ignite. I ended up having to pull the burner out and clean all the dead bugs out of it before getting the furnace to work.
I also pay attention to the 12 volt DC side and batteries, Switching them off with a disconnect switch or pulling the negative terminal if I'm on "shore power" and charge them one day a week to avoid overcharging and burning up expensive batteries. Checking batteries, especially if you are running two 12 volt batteries in parallel. If one battery goes bad your converter will overcharge and burn up the good battery. I run with two 6 volt batteries in series so there is less chance of a bad battery causing the good one to go bad too, plus I get extra capacity from the two 6 volt batteries.
RV'ing actually requires a lot more maintenance than a normal home.
thanks for adding to the video Steve!
Great video!! I would like to see all aspects of caulking and sealing removing old caulking and installing new and types of caulking for the specific applications 🙂
Thanks John, that video is coming!
Me too!
Always enjoy your videos. Thank you. Regarding fire extinguishers, beyond checking the gauge or nozzle for obstructions….ever wonder what NFPA 12 is? Labels typically state “Maintain in accordance with NAPA12. The interpretation is: “Once the unit reaches its twelfth year of service, replace or re-certify.
The white ones are disposable. The red ones may be re-certified. 😊
great info Michael, thank you for sharing!
Would love to see a video on diesel & reading the dash, control systems & driving trips.
Going from gas to diesel is an amazing change & some helpful tips on the gauges, controls,
and overall handling would be very helpful.
your timing is perfect... we just went from a 1/2 gasser to a 1 ton diesel and Im learning myself... it wont be for a while but something definitely down the road.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS Well, our learning began on Monday & 7 hour trip home was quite the learning experience. So much more to know before we start our travels. We'll be watching for your new post.
The Freightliner dealer has offered to go over it with us, but any suggestions where we might find something
on it now would be helpful...... Thanks K & D
Good info on the barrel locks. I changed to those as soon as we got our RV. Great company, as well.
All tips you mention here, I have done from the beginning. Including top notch products. I hope many people see this video. Good job!
Thank you much!
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS Thank you!
I don't know if this has been covered before, on the first time subscriber. But I would add something about a pressure regulator on the water input system. I learned my lesson the hard way. I currently have repair bill that is north of $500 to replace some plumbing, minor, and a hot water heater that burst with over pressurized campground water. Of course, I now have a regulator on this RV, but it's too late to avoid the cost of repair bill for me.
thanks for adding Scott!
Appreciate the show. The different types of RV caulk (not fm big box). I use geocell.
303 is expensive. I try to use 3in1 rubber conditioner on seals except where there's sun exposure, then 303.
Thanks Will, I use geocell also. Excellent stuff.
It’s good that you give options. I’ll probably go with the CRC but I know others that use the other cleaners you mentioned. Thanks for another great video.
Thanks Matt!
It's an important addition you add which is why you choose to use a product you choose.
thanks for watching Jeff!
Behind your fridge compartment (exterior door) I put Screen Mend on the backside with a heat gun , it works well. I bought the screen mend at Lowes
thanks for watching!
I'm glad I found you. You are so good at explaining everything, and using diagrams of what you're referring to really helps even more. After watching a few videos I subscribed to your channel and newsletter. Thank you for taking time out of your RV travel days to make these helpful videos and sharing. 😊
my pleasure
In addition to cleaning your cord ends, I add dielectric grease to the contacts. especially on the vehicals connection and especially when storing for the winter. This will prevent water and corrosives from even coming in contact with the metal. Keep in mind that this can be messy if you are having to handle your cords a lot.
definitely agree, dielectric grease is good, but in outdoor applications it can attract dirt.
Just FYI, those camlocks are so easy to pop open, I would swap out to a double-sided key instead.
Thank you for watching!
Thank you for info. Shutting the water off before leaving your campsite is overlooked by many. We had people camped next to us have a major flood whike they were gone. We turned the water off and had the rv park contact them. They had a huge mess!
Totally agree Dean.
Very informative.
I'd add something that someone once mentioned to me: wheel bearing grease can sometimes heat up, while the RV is parked in the sun, to the point where it will run out of the wheel bearing. Our trailer has been parked in the yard for a month, with one side facing south, and I just checked the bearings on that side. Sure enough, the grease had started to puddle at the bottom of the bearing. I'll check the north side when we pull in the slide before departure next week.
Great info, thanks for adding to the video Michael!
When you turn off the water while you are gone, I would have opened both sides of the Y connector to relieve the back pressure from the system. I use that trick when switching valve positions on my Nautilis system so they are not under pressure while being changed.
thats a great idea, but it will only relieve pressure up to the panel IF the panel has a check valve at the connection point. I dont have a Nautilus panel, but I believe most of them do. so there would still be pressure after the panel in the RV plumbing I believe... however its a great thought, and I think the better option is to open one of your sink faucets for a few seconds, which will relieve the pressure in the RV plumbing. your thoughts?
Proper use of battery switch. Also running refrigerator while driving.
I do have one sink that does drain into my blackwater tank, but I consider it a plus. After draining my blackwater tank, I close the black water valve and turn on the tap at that sink. I let the water run for 20 to 25 minutes being sure not to over fill my blackwater tank. Then I flush it again. (Sometimes more than once) This really helps remove solids that may not have been removed on the first dump. After it's dumped then I run the sink for another five minutes (valve closed) so that I have a water level in the tank to start breaking down solids right after it is emptied. Also, before I hit the road, I dump the tank, add my five minutes of water, then right before I leave my camp site,I dump a bag of ice in the toilet so that bumps in the road help the ice further clean the inside of the tank. Some people add a little dishwashing soap and lemon juice. (don't add lemon pieces) I usually let the ice do the work itself and don't mess with the soap. We've been full-timing in this coach for more than a decade without any blackwater tank issues.
I don't have a sink that drains into my black tank, but after emptying, I place a dumbell on my toilet foot lever and fill the tank and empty again. Sometimes, twice to clear the sensors.
I use 303 on the drive belt for an off road vehicle on a rotax engine and tires too.
I work as a service writer at an rv place. Spring when opening many of my calls are people having problems with their slides opening. And at opening many call in and say "I have no hot water". Better explanations for troubleshooting these 2 items woukd be great! Love your videos! I can learn lots from you!
Thanks for your input Colleen.
I really appreciate your videos. As a new owner of an RV, the info you provide is so good!! Thank you!!!
Our pleasure!
I’m camping now, and I noticed mice in my trailer and outside kitchen. The first time ever. I have a GD311bhs. They were coming in on the rod attached to my kitchen slide out. When you look at it, you can see inside the underbelly. From there they walked up the heating duct tubes and into the trailer. I happen to have some foil tape for ducts in my tool box and closed up the hole. I didn’t attach the tape to the rod, but rather just closed up the hole against the frame. When the slide comes in, if it needs more space, it’ll just tear the tape a bit and I can seal it next time. Now the mice can’t gain access to my underbelly.
Good idea Mike!
Roof plumbing vents and the AC cover are a prime place for wasp nests. I found one in a roof vent and removed it. You can make a wire screen cover or buy screened vent replacements. Also check the roof vents for pipe extension length, if the pipe is too long it will touch the top cover and not vent. Use a hacksaw blade to cut the pipe. I will also install an AC cover for when my RV is in storage/not being used. Its not designed to be driven. We have a sink faucet handle that opened when traveling and dumped water into the RV. I now use a small bungee cord to keep it shut.
thanks for the comment William!
1 issue that was never covered in how to winterize your gray water tank. You should do a final dump after you add qlycol. What water was in your system will sit in the discharge portion of your tank and freeze during the winter and cracks your pipe. Not that it happened to me. 😉
I think you are commenting on the wrong video. We abolutely address this in our winterzing video. This is not a winterizing video, its just a few tips.
Those CH 751 keys also open sheds and the mega-generator at work doors. All my external storage doors on my camper were rekeyed.
they open storage hatches on boats too. Also used to operate generic ignition key switches. Tons of things. Thanks for sharing my friend.
Hello. AGAIN, amazing content and advice for RV travellers. Now: an idea for you to review: Can you look into the usage of water from the tanks - anything out there for safe water drinking from the fresh water tank? Thanks for the very informative videos. You are one GREAT ressource for us! Rémi (Canada)
I personally dont drink from the tank, but this is an AWESOME filter: amzn.to/3MXQpqY
Excellent info!
I have a brand new rv, sprung a leak at the PEX joint under the sink. Promptly changed it out for brass. Good to go!
thanks for watching!
For my water heater, I use aluminum screening that I form fitted to the cover and then glued the screen to it. I have never found any bugs or mice in it. It can probably be done to a lot of other areas.
Yep, lots of materials available to make DIY screens too. I'd also agree there are plenty of spots on an RV that could be screened off. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS I should have said to the inside of the cover.
So happy I just found your channel. May Jesus continue to bless you and your family
thank you Eric!
More great info!
My winter storage tips.
All cupboard drawers and closet doors cracked open a bit. On the dining table we use Stor Dry warm air circulator, as we have shore power.
Also for shore and non we also use a few Dry Z air containers( do not touch the grains or liquid to skin)
Also 1 window open about an inch for the trailer to at least breathe a little. Cheap hardware store window lock.
Obviously never leave any food or liquid over winter.
On spring return we check feel all the walls and ceiling everywhere, closets etc in case of water damage.
Also spend 200 on a manometer to test your gas system for leaks, or hire a qualified, or go to a plumbing joint and buy a manometer gauge and hose and connections for 25 if you understand gas leak detection.
I was in the RV industry for several years uh ‘back in the day’.
great stuff, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for taking the time to do these videos, and linking all the items. You’ve made things a lot easier for me. Much appreciated!!
Glad to help!
Love all your videos as they are helpful for me when going RV'ing. I bought my RV (Retro 135) last year, bought a lot of the stuff you recommended. Also last year, in order to protect my investment, I purchased a Eevelle s2 expedition cover. Only had this cover on from maybe November until recently. Im sadly disappointed, only because some sort of rodent ate a lot of the fabric. No where when researching about RV covers did anyone mention the possibility that this could happen. I would have assumed that the fabric would have been treated with some kind of anti repellent. If you have any tips or suggestions Im totally open to hearing them in one of your videos, as this was over $350 wasted dollars.
Thanks for the nice comment Todd... I actually stopped using covers probably 4 or 5 years ago. I never really saw a benefit other than keeping UV rays on the RV. There are mixed opinions on covers, some like them, some will never use one. I'm not really in either camp but I would imagine they might actually trap moisture. Its a tough one to answer, and an even tougher video to make comparing them... I'm thinking about builidng 2 small sections of roofing materials and letting both of them sit outside for a year. one covered, one not, then making that video in a year. Sorry, I dont have a good answer for you, well I do, but it involves buying a car port to keep it covered, or even a pole barn/large garage, but thats way above the cost of a cover.
Thanks . Now we know how to brake in to a rv . The maintenance helps
Maybe, but I’d rather expose this fact so people can be more prepared to better protect their things.
I used to work at an RV sales and repair shop, we replaced a lot of refrigerator's, because they sat idle, chemicals used in refrigerant corroded pipes and leaked out, causing an ammonia smell
thanks for sharing
Shut your hot water off during the day. Safe the gas.
Shut your fresh pump off during driving. I’ve had it when my pump kicked in and couldn’t prime because I was driving and it wouldn’t build air pressure. Even though it was primed before I left.
If you are in the session after dumping add 5 gal of fresh water and dish soap to the black tank. It’ll prevent the poop Pyramid and keep the sensors accurate.
Good stuff, thanks TJ!
Great tips Ross! I second your advice on the contact cleaner. I keep a can under the backseat. Once fixed an auto level problem just by spraying the low voltage contacts of the system. Also in the fuse box of the truck. Had a fuel pump fuse that just needed the contacts cleaned. Truck started right up!
Thanks for sharing bud.
Just got my 2024 2600RB , thanks for video.
very nice!
Always put awning up at night or when you are leaving your RV. High winds and storms can quickly wreck an awning.
very true
I would like overview of fixing bottom of trailer plasticcord, whatever it is? I had my sagg and had to introduce more screws to fix. Any better options? Also, slide out bearings. I hear squeaks off and on and have oiled. Thx for content and good video.
Ill see what I can do!
Having many RV’s over the years none of this was new. However, you presented it in a way it was still enjoyable to watch. I liked and subscribed and will check out some of your other videos.
I really appreciate this comment because believe it or not, I spend a lot of time trying to make these videos enjoyable for everyone. Thank you so much!
How have I not even though about the slide seals on the bottom of the slide? Ordered the 303 and will be doing these this week.
Just made the same mistake.
Doe....
Yep, I also have over looked the bottom slide seals.
Can you comment on traction control? I just bought a 24' travel trailer with a load leveler & antisway bars. After towing a while, I got a message to service my traction control. I'm thinking it's best to disable it while towing.
definitely!
lol
I’ve noticed you have a little remote\beverage holder next to your theater seats where could I get something similar? Thanks in advance, love the videos I’ve learned a lot from them.
the beverage holder is actually a hair dryer holder: amzn.to/3vnsP1U
and here is the remote holder: amzn.to/41PUZyr
We have had several RV's, and every one has had multiple water leaks in the plumbing. All but one were loose fitting nuts where the supply lines connect to a faucet, toilet, shower, outside kitchen etc. At least twice a season, you should go around and hand tighten every one of these fittings. I know it's a pain to access shower and water heater fittings, but we have had leaks into walls and floors from both of them. These leaks were all on newer RV's usually under warranty. But who wants their RV in the shop for weeks when you can fix the problem yourself.
thanks for adding!
3 basic but important tips.
When connecting and disconnecting "shore power" ensure the breakers at the pedistal are all off. Verify all are off to protect the next person.
I saw someone plug in their cable which caused an arc, luckily they didn't get shocked.
2. Before dumping tanks verify all dump valves are shut. A somewhat common practical joke is when a teenage (or adult) will open a valve on someone else's RV. When they remove the cap they end up with a firehouse shot of hopefully grey water in their face.
3. Never leave awnings out while unattended (even a few minutes). EVEN if your awning has a wind detector.
A sudden unexpected gust of wind can and will rip an awning off.
Once during a sudden wind storm I saw my "neighbor" and his wife fighting to close their awning.
I offered to help and they were greatful. Shortly after I grabbed the extended awning there was a string gust that pulled me off the ground (I'm a 270 pound man) and ripped the awning bolts out of his class A.
After that gust he was finally able to retract his awning.
This senior couple was extremely "lucky" that afternoon. They didn't loose that awning and the large Douglas Fir that fell on the driver's side can only be called a miracle.
I literally can not explain how this tree fell and did no damage. The tree originally stood about 3 foot from the rear driver's side corner of his rig. It was about 4 foot wide and likely over 150 foot high.
The tree fell between the RV and the shore power pedastal. It didn't hit the pedastal, didn't damage the water faucet, shore power cable or even scratch his rig.
Somehow the tree came to a rest under his driver's side slideout. As the tree fell it stripped every branch from another tree that was about 10 foot from his SUV parked in front of his class A. From my campsite the pile of large branches looked like a tree fell on his car. This branch pile was about 7-8 foot tall.
Besides his awning damage nothing else was scratched. At the time the tree fell, his wife was on the sofa that was in the driver's side slideout.
Yet neither knew the tree fell. When she saw that tree she turned white and started shaking. She knew that the tree falling less than a foot towards the slide out would have meant a destroyed RV and probably severe damage or worse to her.
thanks for sharing!
Always retract your awning when you leave your campsite. I've seen many an awning get ripped off the side of a camper due to a quick pop-up thunderstorm.
Thanks for adding Darrell! I do mention that in another video but appreciate you adding to the discussion my friend.
How about slide out mechanism maintenance including the racks, guides and possibly motor couplings. Great video!
I will see what I can do. Stuff like that is hard since my rv only has 1 type, and there are multiple others. I need a boneyard of rvs to cover everything lol.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS Maybe just start with what you have.
Thanks...I'm in the process of purchasing my first rv so videos like these will come in handy
Glad it was helpful!
Picking my RV next month, thanks for the tips, much appreciated
you're welcome, definitely check this one out: th-cam.com/video/yuvS3zZL81c/w-d-xo.html
Don't have an RV. However, I do lots of work om RV's that my boss owns. I'll point him this way.
ALSO, back in 2012 my Mom moved onto my property so she would be near to help if/when she needed it. The RV she was in did not have jacks that could support the weight. Lost of rocking in the wind and even when walking around inside. SO, being somewhat of an auto nut and having some construction skills, I decided to put it on jackstands, on the frame. Long story short, it was as solid as a rock after that. I would suggest doing that for long term living.
thanks for sharing and watching Doug!
Here's a bit of knowledge that the used car sellers don't want you to know; every two years or so rub some Honda Shin-Etsu grease on all the rubber seals. Now the interesting part; when you trade in your old car because the electric windows no longer operate and you get quoted hundreds of dollars for new operators, the used car guys rub a little Shin-Etsu grease on the rubber seals, and the windows more often than not work like new. Leaks around the sun roof? Leaks around the Jeep Freedom Panels? Rubber boots on suspension parts cracking? One tube of Shin-Etsu will treat all your vehicles for many years. Almost forgot, Amazon sells it, Honda dealers sell it.
Shin-Etsu is good stuff isn't it!
thats good stuff!
Can you do a video on when and how to use the water heater? does it stay on all the time or only when you need it should you activate it?
You can turn it on all the time. It will only power up when the water falls below the temperature it’s set for. You should have it off when you’re not using the RV.
For electrical contact cleaner you can also use Stabilant 22
Before you travel down the road, release the pressure in your water system, just open a kitchen sink faucet, this also helps you make sure your pump is off.
This is excellent, I’m using this in the next video, thank you sir!
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS New people can learn alot from others, thanks for taken the time to help others.
Anytime! Thanks for watching and being a part of the community.
This is not a question for this video but a general one. What roof wash/conditioner do you use and suggest? Really enjoy your channel!
I use Murphys oil soap. its not just for wood. i usually mix about 16 ounces with 5 gallons of water in a bucket and use a soft brush. Here are the links to what I use:
soap: amzn.to/3UmBMBf
brush: amzn.to/3Qo2yIi
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS thank you
welcome
Thanks for your video's , we need more like this because most of the viewers are newbies don't know much or people who know nothing about RVs , so we need more technical videos contain practical knowledge.
Hope the videos help my friend.
@7:55 - addition! Shut off the main spigot, but then BEFORE you shut off the valve of the Y to your RV, flip the other valve open. That will dump all the line pressure onto the ground. With the volume in the pipes... it might only be ~30psi, but that's still potential for a huge mess to come back to.
great tip, thanks for adding to the video!
Clicked on the video just because I saw the ESU hoodie, respect the PSAC
haha definitely!
How about a video on all things tires?
I second that
We are getting ready to winterize our camper and staying it for the whole winter. We are going to put up foam board skirting for insulation on the underbelly. I would like to know what kind of tape is commonly used to hold it in place and does it leave a nasty residue when you’re ready to remove it after winter?
ive never done that so I cant really say for sure, but i know there are some good videos about this on youtube.
This is very valuable user information. Thank you for taking time out of your busy schedule to share this information. As we enter into the winter season, my concern is winter freezing of my water lines. I'm now to camping and have really enjoyed the outdoor adventure. My travel trailer isn't used as much but my family and I do intent on camping during colder days months. Should I leave my furnance in operation during colder nights to prevent the pipes from freezing? Should I dump my freshwater tank as well until needed? I live in south Louiniana. Thank you again for sharing this video. God Bless.
Set your thermostat so if the temp drops it won’t freeze.
Yes, continue what you’re doing. I’m still learning about this stuff as a new RV or but I’m too old now to do it all need a helper lol.
Right on!