I bought a Fisher Hi-Fi in 1983, this is a premium product made in Sweeden and I converted it to Bluetooth a couple of years ago, I fitted the board inside and used a buck converter to step the voltage down.I also cut down the cabinet the Hi-Fi came in as the bottom half was only for record and tape storage anyway. This Hi-Fi sounds much much better than the modern Denon Hi-fi I had in my lounge and the Denon is relegated to my mancave
What I did to keep my high-end and really expensive 80's in tact and old features also working including cassette is just use a small bluetooth module and link it on the line-in with a small switch to switch between the module and line-in. AND i also used SLA/DLP 3d print techniques to replace gears of the tape deck gotta love it!
I'm supposing an FDM printer might be a bit too crude for gears. I have a nice Philips deck with gears basically disintegrating... I wonder if the output lines from the cassette could be used for BT input?
Jari Heiska usually they're quite low level signals before the logic, bettet to use a bluetooth module in the batterytray and pur a 4-lead relay on the speakers, then it'll disconnect the stereo and connect the bluetooth amp as soon as it get powered, i did that in my last crappy car instead of buy a new stereo to it 👍🏻
I would of definitely done things differently BUT your build, your rules 👍 It does what you set out to do ☑️ It looks the way you wanted ☑️ GREAT JOB! 😁👍
The drivers are quite good actually, unless you punctured them. Most good drivers are made from some kind of paper pulp. Paper has some unique qualities with regards to resonance and strength. It was probably unnecessary to put in a new amplifier. The old one would likely have been more than adequate for the job. And also probably better matched to the drivers. The first and best thing you could have done for the unit was to strengthen up the cabinet to not vibrate and resonate as much, and pad out the cavities lightly with speaker stuffing. That will do a hell of a lot more for sound quality then changing the amplifier. I would have tried the microphone jack on the back first to see how bad quality it actually was, and then only next try to install a line in, on the old amplifier. Many of these old boom boxes actually come with a quite good line in sections. Just buy a regular Bluetooth dongle and put it in the line in Port. Then you would have saved a whole bunch of work and probably have had the same sound quality if not better. Who cares about the controls on the box.? Leave them as a memento, and something to fiddle with, save the volume control. All your controls will be from your phone anyway naturally.
Great approach to preserve the 80s appearance! ... BTW: the "tiny tweeter-like disks" ARE actually tweeters. They are simple piezos - while not exactly high fidelity, they work as their own high-pass filters, eliminating the need for "expensive" crossovers...
i play some vaporwave out of this thing as i step out of my delorean at 11 pm. it is dark, but we are ready to chill. it is just right to party outside. it is time.
New speakers with baffles connected to crossovers for tweeter and woofer, new cassette buttons, sound activated LED controller (hack the power to the mic on one of the face panel buttons,) wire the LED controller pattern and color buttons to the old controls. You could remove the cassette mechanicals and replace with a monitor. Connect that to a Pi for cassette animation and even touch controls for the amp and bluetooth.
Keep in mind, with any electronics, the capacitors can hold electrical charge. So if you get one and test it before opening it, be sure to unplug and us the power on switch. Hold it down if it's the soft gel type.
I think the volume control could be done with a rotary encoder. Potentiometer-like thingy, which sends impulses based on which way it is turned. Those impulses would correspond to button presses on the volume buttons. I recently did a bit of restoration on a 90's Sharp boombox, which had been in use at a gym, and what I assumed was a weight dropped on it, breaking one of the controls. Designed and printed the external slider, and the internal, thingamabob that actually moves metal contacts around. Many iterations! But it works fine. :) Need to design an arm for the carry handle, also broken. Tough life on the poor unit. Next would be to install a non-amplified USB receiver, attach that to the cassette inputs, and use the original amp. Fun stuff. Great video. :) Love the aesthetic of that unit.
OMG I have one of these "boom boxes" as we called them in the states. Great project. Have to dig mine out & see what can be done with it. Maybe add USB port to keep ph charged. Modify cassette window to hold ph or mp3 player.
My son and I are restoring an old car that came with the house we bought. We wanted to keep the original radio so we installed this same bluetooth board and it worked great.
Personally, I would put the board in the cassette bay, visible through the window. Although I'm partial to that kind of retro futuristic aesthetic. I've had this exact project on my to-do list for the longest time, but with a 90s stereo I found. After seeing this, I think I'll have to revive that project.
Try brushing on a light coating of diluted PVA glue on those speaker cones if you want to keep them going for a little while longer. It'll reinforce the cones and add a little mass to lower the resonance frequency which can add a little bit better bass performance.
Crunchy volume control was probably just dirty a very simple fix and work just like new. Use tv tuner / contact cleaner and spray into the volume control potentiometer and turn the volume control as you spray it to clean
Nice project. Now put the $20 budget to the side. Upgrade the speakers to a 2way set, use an Arduino to handle the analogue volume control output (as it was originally) to pass signal to the Bluetooth board as digital pulses. 3d print all the broken parts. Have the aesthetic pieces have function. If you have an Arduino in there, you can make them do anything.
I've seriously been thinking of doing this the lazy way and just getting one of those Bluetooth cassette adapters. Tape players can sound surprisingly good when they don't have an actual tape in them. I would still want to find a way to route power to the cassette adapter. (There's no way I'd take it out to charge it.) But beyond that the advantage would be keeping all the functionality of the original device. You know, in case I ever go crazy and want to listen to FM radio.
I have all the stuff for this exact project that have been sitting around for about 3 years now waiting for the perfect vintage deck(something in the Sony CFS line, the 88s or one of the 900s series, the yellow 'sport' branded ones).
Soldering advice for those just starting: 1) Get a good *temperature* controlled station. Avoid the kind with just wattage controls, and never buy an uncontrolled iron, they’re just awful. Digital or analog is OK, and it doesn’t need to be expensive, it just needs a thermostat to keep the tip at the needed temperature. The kind that takes T11 tip/heater cartridges work better than the kind where the tip & heater are separate parts; but they can cost a little bit more. 2) Get some magnification; I spent the $$$ on a stereo microscope, but a cheap microscope such as is suitable for dissecting frogs will work here. Even a desktop magnifying glass is better than nothing. Likewise, make sure you have enough light to see with... adding an extra gooseneck desk lamp with a ‘100w’ LED bulb in it might be a good idea. 3) Get some flux. It’s essential to making the process work. I use Chip-Quik paste flux because it cleans up with 99% isopropyl alcohol; but any decent ‘no-clean’ flux will work. BTW, grab some 99% isopropyl - I found that it’s much easier to order it from eBay or Amazon; but you might find it locally - the water in 91% and 70% grades inhibits the cleaning action with flux residues (they’re hydrophobic). 4) Probably obvious, but... always use electronics grade solder and flux. The kind for plumbing will cause corrosion on electronic components. 5) Don’t breathe the fumes... the lead in the solder won’t get anywhere near vaporization temperature but the flux that is burning off is not good for carbon-based life forms (probably not as bad as a cigarette, but still... ew!). Working outside with a small fan is OK, but they do make desktop fume extractors with activated charcoal filters; and they’re not terribly expensive. 6) Solder containing lead works better than lead-free; but, well... lead. If you do go with the leaded stuff, be sure to wash your hands; and make sure that you can contain the little bits of solder that will eventually wind up on the floor (so, a floor mat with raised edges that you can clean might be a good idea. It doesn’t have to be fancy or expensive, just cleanable). 7) I find the tip cleaners that look like brass scrubbers work better for me; but some people do prefer the wet sponges. In any case, keep your tip clean. 8) Bigger tips work better - my main station has a ‘hoof’ tip on it; but ‘chisel’ or ‘screwdriver’ style tips work also. The temperature regulation comes from the station, not the tip size; so don’t think that you need a tiny tip because the work is delicate. Only switch down to a smaller tip when you need to get it in a physically smaller space.
A good way to repair paper speakercones ( functionally but not cosmetically) is Rizla and superglue ;) .. a possible way to reinforce them if they are possible brittle would be to spray them with some kind of silicone.
Cool idea but I would attempt to reuse as much as I could. If you want to use the systems' built in amp and other features, you could get a line level adapter and wire the Bluetooth board into to the cassette player head which has a left and right input. That way you can power everything off the batteries if you want the system portable and the only feature you loose is the cassette player and all the knobs should work as before. I bet you could even fit the board into the cassette slot and you could use the cassette control buttons to trigger events on the board.
Angus, any ideas on how to design a collapsible/foldable hoop that has a diameter larger than the print bed of my Prusa? This week I designed & printed some hoops with embedded LEDs for tiny whoops (micro FPV quadcopters you fly using video goggles), but they're at the maximum size of my print bed, 210mm outer diameter, ideally I want some that are 300mm or larger outer diameter, without compromising strength & rigidity when setup. Hinges seem to be the way to go, but I've no idea how small I can make them and keep their strength.
@@MakersMuse Possible, but ever seen one of those discs fail? They literally take off in all directions along the plan of rotation at very high speed. I really wouldn't wan't to see you get hurt, it would delay the next video :-) Especially when you did so well with the rest of the PPE.
If I were doing this I would use a raspberry pi zero with a dac hat on it. That way it can function as a Bluetooth speaker or an internet radio/ alexa device.
Finally! Finally I could track down his channel on SoundCloud! So it's Mekanum_Hardstyle. Search for it on SoundCloud to get more glimpses of Angus' creativity 😁
Hey angus! I get that you have to monetize but in-video ads kind of cheapen the weight of your recommendations. It's like we know you're for sale now. I clicked your (optional) affiliate link after you convinced me to buy a prusa, and I'm totally fine with TH-cam ads (which we can skip with TH-cam premium if we want). Just one guy's opinion, thanks for the content 👍
Perhaps a different Bluetooth module might have been a better choice... one with other control inputs; or with a TTL-serial port to connect to an Arduino mini to do the control interfacing... 🤔
great ! for your LED strip (WS2812 I guess from the video), why not a vu-meter ? you need only 5v, an Arduino nano, put line in and a switch and some skill in programming sketch.
I've used the exact same bluetooth board for my own bluetooth speaker build. I found that the bluetooth module has USB data lines, but I've not been able to locate the software to reprogram the firmware and change the bluetooth device name. If anyones figured this out please do share...
hi angus, long time viewer here and quite skilled in arduino circuit design, I can help you design a circuit and program it to use the analog input as digital switch
Swap the drivers with contemporary neodymium drivers (lots of options from parts express: www.parts-express.com) then design a 3D printed transmission line enclosure with Hornresp to fit inside it ♥️
5:16 Angus casually welcome a venomous redback spider!
Most Australian Flex Ever!
They're timid as, and eat other insects. Good spiders!
All spiders are venomous.
@_ David _ No? That's actually how spiders feed themselves.
@@Vatharian Semantic sophistry! The significant metric is obviously their potential danger to those engaged in the discussion (i.e. humans).
@@pstrap1311 It's just false. 'It's not dangerous' is proper term. And that's super important to me, as I have clinical arachnophobia. Sorry!
I bought a Fisher Hi-Fi in 1983, this is a premium product made in Sweeden and I converted it to Bluetooth a couple of years ago, I fitted the board inside and used a buck converter to step the voltage down.I also cut down the cabinet the Hi-Fi came in as the bottom half was only for record and tape storage anyway.
This Hi-Fi sounds much much better than the modern Denon Hi-fi I had in my lounge and the Denon is relegated to my mancave
What I did to keep my high-end and really expensive 80's in tact and old features also working including cassette is just use a small bluetooth module and link it on the line-in with a small switch to switch between the module and line-in. AND i also used SLA/DLP 3d print techniques to replace gears of the tape deck gotta love it!
I'm supposing an FDM printer might be a bit too crude for gears. I have a nice Philips deck with gears basically disintegrating... I wonder if the output lines from the cassette could be used for BT input?
Jari Heiska usually they're quite low level signals before the logic, bettet to use a bluetooth module in the batterytray and pur a 4-lead relay on the speakers, then it'll disconnect the stereo and connect the bluetooth amp as soon as it get powered, i did that in my last crappy car instead of buy a new stereo to it 👍🏻
@@lilypower Ooo, that sounds like a better plan. 👍
I like the branching out of 3D printing videos. Very cool build!
You could modify the cassette deck to hold and charge your phone. Nice work! I did a similar job to my daughter's headset.
you could use a rotary encoder with some tiny microcontroller for the volume
I did that myself in a project for a friend and it was a huge pain to get working due to voltage levels and differing resistances
@@TechAmalgamator in last resort, use relays, though its a pretty hacky way to go about it
I would of definitely done things differently BUT your build, your rules 👍
It does what you set out to do ☑️
It looks the way you wanted ☑️
GREAT JOB! 😁👍
Oh my, that Telefunken radio is just gorgeous!
WOW really cool man really love this channel and looking forward to more amazing vids :) Keep it up makers muse ...
Thanks for the kind words! Gonna be a good year heaps of videos planned :D
"Electro-Mechanical Deliciousness", love that 👍. Great video Angus, definitely a project I'd like to take on. Thanks as always for sharing!
The 2-opposing-microswitches-hack is absolute GENIUS!
And to finish it up with the hair swing too...classic!!! Nice work on this, seriously.
The drivers are quite good actually, unless you punctured them.
Most good drivers are made from some kind of paper pulp.
Paper has some unique qualities with regards to resonance and strength.
It was probably unnecessary to put in a new amplifier. The old one would likely have been more than adequate for the job. And also probably better matched to the drivers.
The first and best thing you could have done for the unit was to strengthen up the cabinet to not vibrate and resonate as much, and pad out the cavities lightly with speaker stuffing.
That will do a hell of a lot more for sound quality then changing the amplifier.
I would have tried the microphone jack on the back first to see how bad quality it actually was, and then only next try to install a line in, on the old amplifier.
Many of these old boom boxes actually come with a quite good line in sections.
Just buy a regular Bluetooth dongle and put it in the line in Port. Then you would have saved a whole bunch of work and probably have had the same sound quality if not better.
Who cares about the controls on the box.?
Leave them as a memento, and something to fiddle with, save the volume control.
All your controls will be from your phone anyway naturally.
Great approach to preserve the 80s appearance! ... BTW: the "tiny tweeter-like disks" ARE actually tweeters. They are simple piezos - while not exactly high fidelity, they work as their own high-pass filters, eliminating the need for "expensive" crossovers...
i play some vaporwave out of this thing as i step out of my delorean at 11 pm. it is dark, but we are ready to chill. it is just right to party outside. it is time.
I like that you also do other things than just 3d printing on your channel very much. I’m an electronics hobbyist so I could follow your build easily.
New speakers with baffles connected to crossovers for tweeter and woofer, new cassette buttons, sound activated LED controller (hack the power to the mic on one of the face panel buttons,) wire the LED controller pattern and color buttons to the old controls. You could remove the cassette mechanicals and replace with a monitor. Connect that to a Pi for cassette animation and even touch controls for the amp and bluetooth.
Keep in mind, with any electronics, the capacitors can hold electrical charge. So if you get one and test it before opening it, be sure to unplug and us the power on switch. Hold it down if it's the soft gel type.
I think the volume control could be done with a rotary encoder. Potentiometer-like thingy, which sends impulses based on which way it is turned. Those impulses would correspond to button presses on the volume buttons.
I recently did a bit of restoration on a 90's Sharp boombox, which had been in use at a gym, and what I assumed was a weight dropped on it, breaking one of the controls. Designed and printed the external slider, and the internal, thingamabob that actually moves metal contacts around. Many iterations! But it works fine. :) Need to design an arm for the carry handle, also broken. Tough life on the poor unit. Next would be to install a non-amplified USB receiver, attach that to the cassette inputs, and use the original amp. Fun stuff. Great video. :) Love the aesthetic of that unit.
How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time! It’s old advice, but it’s served me well for decades. Cheers.
Great recycling. I turned an old valve radio into a bass amp for my guitar.
OMG I have one of these "boom boxes" as we called them in the states. Great project. Have to dig mine out & see what can be done with it. Maybe add USB port to keep ph charged. Modify cassette window to hold ph or mp3 player.
Oh my God you have my Boom Box! I didn't bother doing any rewiring. I just added a US$10 wireless Bluetooth receiver to the aux in...
That's the smart and easy way tho.
@@viralvideo171 Which is the best way. Why bother doing a lot when you can be lazy and get the same effect doing much less? >:P
@@LordDragox412 you could just use a audio cable or u could snag a bluetooth cassette for hella cheap
Dude I listen to SO MUCH synth wave .. great project
My son and I are restoring an old car that came with the house we bought. We wanted to keep the original radio so we installed this same bluetooth board and it worked great.
Personally, I would put the board in the cassette bay, visible through the window. Although I'm partial to that kind of retro futuristic aesthetic.
I've had this exact project on my to-do list for the longest time, but with a 90s stereo I found. After seeing this, I think I'll have to revive that project.
Glad to see you are back Angu!
Sorry Angus
Great job Angus , looks great
It costs less than $20? Nice, thank you for this
Try brushing on a light coating of diluted PVA glue on those speaker cones if you want to keep them going for a little while longer. It'll reinforce the cones and add a little mass to lower the resonance frequency which can add a little bit better bass performance.
I find it very interesting how new and old technology can be combined to create something new.
So you like Synthwave. I see you're a man of taste and culture as well!
Angus, it's good to see you're ok and I'm glad you're back.
Crunchy volume control was probably just dirty a very simple fix and work just like new. Use tv tuner / contact cleaner and spray into the volume control potentiometer and turn the volume control as you spray it to clean
TDA7492P - thanks for the heads up! Ordering one right now!
Nice project. Now put the $20 budget to the side. Upgrade the speakers to a 2way set, use an Arduino to handle the analogue volume control output (as it was originally) to pass signal to the Bluetooth board as digital pulses. 3d print all the broken parts. Have the aesthetic pieces have function. If you have an Arduino in there, you can make them do anything.
Awesome rebuild!!
I've seriously been thinking of doing this the lazy way and just getting one of those Bluetooth cassette adapters. Tape players can sound surprisingly good when they don't have an actual tape in them.
I would still want to find a way to route power to the cassette adapter. (There's no way I'd take it out to charge it.) But beyond that the advantage would be keeping all the functionality of the original device. You know, in case I ever go crazy and want to listen to FM radio.
I have all the stuff for this exact project that have been sitting around for about 3 years now waiting for the perfect vintage deck(something in the Sony CFS line, the 88s or one of the 900s series, the yellow 'sport' branded ones).
Replace all of the tape buttons with clear resin versions and shine purple LEDs through them. That would look awesome!
Great job, that's freaking tight.
Soldering advice for those just starting:
1) Get a good *temperature* controlled station. Avoid the kind with just wattage controls, and never buy an uncontrolled iron, they’re just awful. Digital or analog is OK, and it doesn’t need to be expensive, it just needs a thermostat to keep the tip at the needed temperature. The kind that takes T11 tip/heater cartridges work better than the kind where the tip & heater are separate parts; but they can cost a little bit more.
2) Get some magnification; I spent the $$$ on a stereo microscope, but a cheap microscope such as is suitable for dissecting frogs will work here. Even a desktop magnifying glass is better than nothing. Likewise, make sure you have enough light to see with... adding an extra gooseneck desk lamp with a ‘100w’ LED bulb in it might be a good idea.
3) Get some flux. It’s essential to making the process work. I use Chip-Quik paste flux because it cleans up with 99% isopropyl alcohol; but any decent ‘no-clean’ flux will work. BTW, grab some 99% isopropyl - I found that it’s much easier to order it from eBay or Amazon; but you might find it locally - the water in 91% and 70% grades inhibits the cleaning action with flux residues (they’re hydrophobic).
4) Probably obvious, but... always use electronics grade solder and flux. The kind for plumbing will cause corrosion on electronic components.
5) Don’t breathe the fumes... the lead in the solder won’t get anywhere near vaporization temperature but the flux that is burning off is not good for carbon-based life forms (probably not as bad as a cigarette, but still... ew!). Working outside with a small fan is OK, but they do make desktop fume extractors with activated charcoal filters; and they’re not terribly expensive.
6) Solder containing lead works better than lead-free; but, well... lead. If you do go with the leaded stuff, be sure to wash your hands; and make sure that you can contain the little bits of solder that will eventually wind up on the floor (so, a floor mat with raised edges that you can clean might be a good idea. It doesn’t have to be fancy or expensive, just cleanable).
7) I find the tip cleaners that look like brass scrubbers work better for me; but some people do prefer the wet sponges. In any case, keep your tip clean.
8) Bigger tips work better - my main station has a ‘hoof’ tip on it; but ‘chisel’ or ‘screwdriver’ style tips work also. The temperature regulation comes from the station, not the tip size; so don’t think that you need a tiny tip because the work is delicate. Only switch down to a smaller tip when you need to get it in a physically smaller space.
A good way to repair paper speakercones ( functionally but not cosmetically) is Rizla and superglue ;) .. a possible way to reinforce them if they are possible brittle would be to spray them with some kind of silicone.
MAKER MUSE "HOW ITS MADE" EDITION
Cool idea but I would attempt to reuse as much as I could. If you want to use the systems' built in amp and other features, you could get a line level adapter and wire the Bluetooth board into to the cassette player head which has a left and right input. That way you can power everything off the batteries if you want the system portable and the only feature you loose is the cassette player and all the knobs should work as before. I bet you could even fit the board into the cassette slot and you could use the cassette control buttons to trigger events on the board.
If you're interested in acoustics and 3D printing, you should check out HexiBase!!
i also love synthwave and outrun those are awesome music genres and art styles
Thanks for sharing this - looks like a fun project. I've favourited it in case I find a suitable device to use as a donor.
I remember catching redbacks in jars from the paddock next door as kids 😃. I'm sure that sounded better in person than the mic picked up 😁
Bring back the old outro music! Still loving it!
The "Blast From The Past" shop was crying over this video.
Man such a great project idea, but such a hack job.
I just wish I had some ambition, this project is rad.
This video is the new poster for the Right to Repair movement, right here! ;-)
Can you please make a Review of the Snapmaker 2.0
Sweet! Very nice retrofit.
what about turning the tape deck slot into a holder for a phone, maybe even a charging dock.
you could just use stereo pot and control amplified signal to speakers, leaving digital control of volume at max
I got one of those little buddies living on my garage door at the moment!
Angus, any ideas on how to design a collapsible/foldable hoop that has a diameter larger than the print bed of my Prusa?
This week I designed & printed some hoops with embedded LEDs for tiny whoops (micro FPV quadcopters you fly using video goggles), but they're at the maximum size of my print bed, 210mm outer diameter, ideally I want some that are 300mm or larger outer diameter, without compromising strength & rigidity when setup. Hinges seem to be the way to go, but I've no idea how small I can make them and keep their strength.
Nice project
Interesting built
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Like your safety boots when cutting the PCB :-)
It's a dremel, I think we'll be OK! :D
@@MakersMuse Possible, but ever seen one of those discs fail?
They literally take off in all directions along the plan of rotation at very high speed.
I really wouldn't wan't to see you get hurt, it would delay the next video :-)
Especially when you did so well with the rest of the PPE.
If I were doing this I would use a raspberry pi zero with a dac hat on it. That way it can function as a Bluetooth speaker or an internet radio/ alexa device.
Finally! Finally I could track down his channel on SoundCloud! So it's Mekanum_Hardstyle. Search for it on SoundCloud to get more glimpses of Angus' creativity 😁
Hehe I just dump my wips and things there :)
@@MakersMuse Like thoose breakbeat and oldskool jungle elements that you used here and there :D
I would just love to have an '80's style boom box just as they are.
Hey angus! I get that you have to monetize but in-video ads kind of cheapen the weight of your recommendations. It's like we know you're for sale now. I clicked your (optional) affiliate link after you convinced me to buy a prusa, and I'm totally fine with TH-cam ads (which we can skip with TH-cam premium if we want). Just one guy's opinion, thanks for the content 👍
3D print new cones for those speakers in a flexible filament?
I had that Bluetooth module. I tried to replace the old stereo in my 1994 Jeep with that module, but it would not drive the amp that was in the Jeep.
That module is already amplified. I doubt the old amp likes getting that much power input?
@@Kumimono I think the amp may have been dead, or there was an external trigger line. Never even got a pop or hiss.
The Midnight by Nocturnal is great synth/retrowave album
Perhaps a different Bluetooth module might have been a better choice... one with other control inputs; or with a TTL-serial port to connect to an Arduino mini to do the control interfacing... 🤔
awesome soundtrack!
great ! for your LED strip (WS2812 I guess from the video), why not a vu-meter ? you need only 5v, an Arduino nano, put line in and a switch and some skill in programming sketch.
Huh, had something similar in mind, but I need a crossover board(?) to power both mids & tweeters?
All hail SynthWave!
Nice job! :)
Awesome video... Thanks!
Thanks for the video.
Colin McGlade ,rdydz , GB n
@@14ompong ??
Nice, re-using old electronics!
I would just use line-in (from tape-in) and some BT adapter.
hmmmm I am subbed and have the bell on .... and I haven't had a notification of your vid for months
Well I didn't upload all Jan, but welcome back :)
@@MakersMuse i didn't get a notification for the one last week :(
4:58 do not wear shorts when cutting anything...............ever. 5:06 NO FLIPFLOPS!!!
next build a nixie clock or a something similar but without using proper nixie tube.
I would really miss the tapedeck!
I've used the exact same bluetooth board for my own bluetooth speaker build. I found that the bluetooth module has USB data lines, but I've not been able to locate the software to reprogram the firmware and change the bluetooth device name. If anyones figured this out please do share...
Anybody knows what anime it is at 00:34?
I'm 99% sure its just a loop, but I couldn't find attribution... :(
hi angus, long time viewer here and quite skilled in arduino circuit design, I can help you design a circuit and program it to use the analog input as digital switch
What would be the best 3d printer for some one new to it?
i was suprised at the sound at the end
very helpful
nice job
Is synthwave a brand or an Aussie slang for boombox?
one of the first few :P
Mode off that please ☺️
Up until now I thought you were sane.
Did you just rip Techmoan's intro music off?
That’s not a boom box. That’s Soundwave !
Swap the drivers with contemporary neodymium drivers (lots of options from parts express: www.parts-express.com) then design a 3D printed transmission line enclosure with Hornresp to fit inside it ♥️
Why you did not wire into the amp so as to keep the radio and tape function is beyond me!
5:35 I swooned.