Need to mention the drain tubes for the sunroof for those that have them, this will cause the cab corners to rust out as well if you dont relocate them and treat them
You guys deserve more followers. Hope all is well. My dad and I work on my gen 1 raptor all the time together. These moments never go to waste. God Bless.
Northeast 2010 Raptor owner here. I didn’t realize that Ford used literally just tape on these trucks to cover the rocker holes until I noticed rust poking thru. Ive since had the rockers somewhat repaired by a questionable shop. I now spray inside the holes with fluid film and replace the tape annually.
Good video! I used Grace Vycor Plus tape on mine a few years back. It's made for flashing home doors/windows, but it's easy to work with, easy to cut to size, and it's super sticky if you apply it on a warm day. It's really more a a rubberized membrane with a plastic backing than it is a tape. They sell it at the Home Depots near me in 4" wide 75 ft. long rolls for under $30... I used the extra to add some soundproofing to my front doors when replacing the speakers.
Would applying the cavity wax not trap already existing rust inside the rocker panel and cause it to get worse? I’m getting ready to tackle this project myself but was worried about that. Awesome content!
Surface rust is fine. It needs moisture to keep going. So you should be fine as there is no way to get in there and remove it. It would not be a bad idea to go in and clean the inside, but challenge you have is drying it all out before applying the wax.
I would have considered using Zip tape over that metal flashing tape. The adhesion is far superior and it's definitely waterproof where as the metal flashing tape is not.
Great Video! This was my plan this year as well to protect from the salt here in the winter in Indiana. I also use woolwax/fluid film on the entire underside of the truck to help protect pretty much everything from that salt and snow. Not sure it would be a good option for you in the dirt and dust, but might be worth looking into as well. Ive seen other guys take the steps off and have them re-coated/rinolined, do you plan to do that as well or just leave them as is?
I’ve tried wax / oil Based protective type films before and they don’t work well here in SoCal. They tend to attract and hold dust. And since the dust out here in the Cali desert has salt in it, you end up rusting quicker. Coated a whole leaf pack with a similar product and it was always brown with dust and they started to rust prematurely. As for the steps, right now I’m going to keep them as is. They are not bad enough to recoat again. I may later or try and adapt a gen2 step onto the truck somehow. I like the design of the gen3 side steps better
Any truck no matter the area because the sunroof sends all the water from the drain tubes here. Those in the rust belt are more prone of course because once the seals fail, you have salt and gravel that can get in there and rust it much faster.
I know that body shops can do spot repairs in those areas because it’s a common issue. But large sections have to be cut and separated and replaced. Big expensive job
lol. Steel don’t matter honestly. I’ve had both and the aluminum body’s are lasting much longer and the aluminum bed is stronger. I’ve seen gen1 beds fall apart after heavy offroad use to the point they needed more than reinforcement. And treating the rust every couple of years on the Gen1 sucks. Cabs completely rusting out due to the moisture from the drain tubes. I’ll take the aluminum body anyday over steel.
I have a gen1 and the maintenance on the steel sucks man. Every 2 years I have to treat it. Not worth it . Aluminum cabs require no maintenance. I also have that gen1 v8 and NA it’s awful. It’s the epitome of a lazy v8. Supercharged it really wakes up. Going from a gen2 to a gen1 sucks if it’s NA too because the gen2 is so nimble and peppy compared to the slower and less powerful v8. But for off-roading the more analog gen1 is better. Gen2 though makes off-roading easier. Gen1 is for the experienced off-roader, where as anyone can offroad a gen2 fast
This is an older truck though. And ford has since switched to aluminum cans to avoid this all together. But I know what you mean. My e39 2003 BMW M5 does not have any signs of rust whatsoever because of how they build those cars.
It disgusts me that Ford lets a design like that roll out of the factory. Reputable car companies insert a plastic body plug that clicks in, and trains the mechanics at the dealer to replace them if they go missing, they don't just slap a sticker on it...
Agree and I think it’s one of the reason they switched to aluminum. Car manufacturing is all about saving money where possible and I’m sure there is a substantial cost difference between plastic stickers and rubber plugs across 600k trucks a year.
As a Gen 1 raptor owner, you are such a massive help to the community, thank you for making videos, I will definitely be checking my seals now
Thanks man. That’s why we setup this channel.
Need to mention the drain tubes for the sunroof for those that have them, this will cause the cab corners to rust out as well if you dont relocate them and treat them
We did mention them. Multiple times in the video. We could not find all of our tubes. Only 1 so it does have me worried
You guys deserve more followers. Hope all is well. My dad and I work on my gen 1 raptor all the time together. These moments never go to waste. God Bless.
Thanks man. Working on this truck with my kids will be the best memories I have with them.
Just got my 2010 SCAB. She needs some TLC. You seem to go the extra mile. Good job.
Thanks. Trying to keep the truck maintained so she could last me longer.
Your video production quality has improved! Good stuff man.
Thanks, I was long overdue to upgrade gear
Long Time without seeing you, my friend. Thank you for posting again.
Thanks man. It’s been really hot in SoCal making filming hard. Cameras and people don’t work right when it’s 105-110 outside
Northeast 2010 Raptor owner here. I didn’t realize that Ford used literally just tape on these trucks to cover the rocker holes until I noticed rust poking thru. Ive since had the rockers somewhat repaired by a questionable shop. I now spray inside the holes with fluid film and replace the tape annually.
Good maintenance schedule to keep. Next time try the cavity wax to see if it lasts longer. I’m hoping it does
Good video! I used Grace Vycor Plus tape on mine a few years back. It's made for flashing home doors/windows, but it's easy to work with, easy to cut to size, and it's super sticky if you apply it on a warm day. It's really more a a rubberized membrane with a plastic backing than it is a tape. They sell it at the Home Depots near me in 4" wide 75 ft. long rolls for under $30... I used the extra to add some soundproofing to my front doors when replacing the speakers.
Yeah would definitely work better. Other recommend butyl tape with is very similar. Definitely going to use that the next time
I recommend this
Eastwood Internal Frame Coating Aerosol Black
Just looked it up and it’s a very similar product to the 3m cavity wax
glad to see you did wax too. 🤙🏽
We had to many. There is so much moisture that runs though that area. Can’t understand why ford designed to cab like that.
Would applying the cavity wax not trap already existing rust inside the rocker panel and cause it to get worse? I’m getting ready to tackle this project myself but was worried about that. Awesome content!
Surface rust is fine. It needs moisture to keep going. So you should be fine as there is no way to get in there and remove it. It would not be a bad idea to go in and clean the inside, but challenge you have is drying it all out before applying the wax.
I would have considered using Zip tape over that metal flashing tape. The adhesion is far superior and it's definitely waterproof where as the metal flashing tape is not.
Never heard of zip tape. Can you send me a link?
Great Video! This was my plan this year as well to protect from the salt here in the winter in Indiana. I also use woolwax/fluid film on the entire underside of the truck to help protect pretty much everything from that salt and snow. Not sure it would be a good option for you in the dirt and dust, but might be worth looking into as well. Ive seen other guys take the steps off and have them re-coated/rinolined, do you plan to do that as well or just leave them as is?
I’ve tried wax / oil Based protective type films before and they don’t work well here in SoCal.
They tend to attract and hold dust. And since the dust out here in the Cali desert has salt in it, you end up rusting quicker. Coated a whole leaf pack with a similar product and it was always brown with dust and they started to rust prematurely.
As for the steps, right now I’m going to keep them as is. They are not bad enough to recoat again. I may later or try and adapt a gen2 step onto the truck somehow. I like the design of the gen3 side steps better
Suggest dynamat which you used on the inner side of your truck
Dynamat could work. Right thickness, super sticky, might be a good option. May try that next time
Dang I just saw this and checked mine has little bubbling under passenger rear side and has now a small quarter size hole:(
Sorry to hear man. That rusted from the inside out. Definitely check with a body shop on repairing as it can get worse quick.
Would you say this happens more to truck that live where they salt the roads? Or any truck no matter the area where its from?
Any truck no matter the area because the sunroof sends all the water from the drain tubes here. Those in the rust belt are more prone of course because once the seals fail, you have salt and gravel that can get in there and rust it much faster.
How could you clean the inside before putting in the wax?
Only way is a power washer or hose. But you have to make sure everything is dry before applying the wax. That could take some extra time.
So how many cans of 3m wax in i going to need?
Just for what we did, we needed just over 1 can so plan on 2
That’s what eye pro is for
What? You talking about eye protection?
I bet you could take the inner door panel off and get inside there. Maybe?
I know that body shops can do spot repairs in those areas because it’s a common issue. But large sections have to be cut and separated and replaced. Big expensive job
@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad UGH! Sounds like a good time.
It’s not a just a gen 1 it’s a SVT RAPTOR!
🤣🤣 what’s the difference?
lol. Steel don’t matter honestly. I’ve had both and the aluminum body’s are lasting much longer and the aluminum bed is stronger. I’ve seen gen1 beds fall apart after heavy offroad use to the point they needed more than reinforcement. And treating the rust every couple of years on the Gen1 sucks. Cabs completely rusting out due to the moisture from the drain tubes. I’ll take the aluminum body anyday over steel.
I have a gen1 and the maintenance on the steel sucks man. Every 2 years I have to treat it. Not worth it . Aluminum cabs require no maintenance.
I also have that gen1 v8 and NA it’s awful. It’s the epitome of a lazy v8. Supercharged it really wakes up. Going from a gen2 to a gen1 sucks if it’s NA too because the gen2 is so nimble and peppy compared to the slower and less powerful v8.
But for off-roading the more analog gen1 is better. Gen2 though makes off-roading easier. Gen1 is for the experienced off-roader, where as anyone can offroad a gen2 fast
Why can't American manufacturers coat rust protection like the Germans? Is it really that much more? Really frustrating owning American cars
This is an older truck though. And ford has since switched to aluminum cans to avoid this all together.
But I know what you mean. My e39 2003 BMW M5 does not have any signs of rust whatsoever because of how they build those cars.
When does a compulsive personality ....become to much????!
Smoke cigrits..
It disgusts me that Ford lets a design like that roll out of the factory.
Reputable car companies insert a plastic body plug that clicks in, and trains the mechanics at the dealer to replace them if they go missing, they don't just slap a sticker on it...
Agree and I think it’s one of the reason they switched to aluminum. Car manufacturing is all about saving money where possible and I’m sure there is a substantial cost difference between plastic stickers and rubber plugs across 600k trucks a year.