Wizard, so refreshing to have a calm, knowledgeable, and humble car guy on TH-cam. You’re proof that you don’t need click-bait or phrenetic narrative. Here’s to you being a beacon to others, even outside the shop I’m sure, and setting an honorable example. Merry Christmas.
I've had to replace a few exhaust headers on different makes of vehicles over the years, and I've never broken a bolt yet. One trick I learned is let the engine run for 10 minutes or so (you could go for a drive as well) shut it off and then carefully crack all the header bolts free, then wait till they fully cool down and finish removing them. Using a torch on a cold bolt never seems to transfer the heat deep inside the threads as well as "heat soaking" the engine from it running a while. This also works great on spark plugs that are really "seized in" especially if that are dissimilar metals
That's if the bolt wasn't broken before you started. It appears this bolt broke and caused the exhaust leak. It is really common on Chevy for broken manifold bolts.
My ways better if time allows 😅. Spray PB on them once in the morning and after work when nice heat soaked Then impact them. I spray them for 4 days. Basically I ordered headers. That's when I started to spray them. Cold and hott 😅
Something has to give. Super wide and grippy tyres=no wheel slip. Locking diff=no slip. In between is the axle and CV joints=snap. And the passenger side is less "looked at" by the driver... so gnarly bits on that side of the vehicle that could cause problems are far les likely to be seen or assessed by the driver...who just can't see them. It happens to right hand drive vehicles....but just opposite.....left side CV and axles go snap.....
These don't have locking front diffs either. The first few years were actually open differentials up front, and I think in 2012 or so they added a Torsen LSD (helical I believe) up front, so still not an actual locker, just something to transfer some torque to the wheel with better grip.
My 2004 Ram Hemi also has over 300,000 miles- all original beside F pump, p/s rack, and brakes, fluids. Still runs excellent. Also both CV shafts replaced and the "axle stubs" that go into the front diff. It is a "Laramie" edition w/ AWD and 4 wd H and L.
Whoever adjusted the shocks to mid perch and rebuilt them did not assemble them correctly, the perches and springs aren't in the correct orientation. The axles arent a weak point at all unless the alignment is way out or you do something really stupid. Speaking of alignment the LCA cam adjusters which were installed are totally wrong.
I just watched hoovie, and i had that surgery you had, and it was worse than the other 14 surgeries i had. Pulling the packing out of my nose was the worst part, i was not expecting it to be so rough. I do appreciate being able to breathe through my nose, and no more snoring. I came out backwards in 1971, and part of that is why i had snored since i was a kid, and had nose bleeds all the time as a kid. The surgery is worth it, but not fun to have. G-d bless from one of your ten female viewer's lol. I know your wife will be happy to have the snoring fixed lol.
The exhaust manifold repair is no joke. That's a lot of work with no guarantee of success. I get why this is labor intensive. But it is worth the money to do it right. Exhaust leaks can be very dangerous for the occupants of the vehicle. Exhaust fumes can make you delusional behind the wheel and cause serious health problems.
Did you replace the hub with the upgraded one? their was a recall due to water intrusion which caused water to wash the greese away in the cv axle and then failure
Man, he jumped a hill with this truck. It was a high jump and he landed it over the passenger frontside wheel. The moment I saw it I said something broke 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I was watching an old episode of CHiPs the other day and there was a Blue and White Citroen just like yours driving down the freeway on 3 wheels. I thought that was so cool.
@@khalifgreen581 I watch a lot of old shows on different streaming channels, sometimes when they crash a car that is now considered a valuable collector car I kind of cry inside.
I don't know if anyone pointed this out, but is see the tire is a Load Range C. Yes, they are cheaper than the Load Range E, but the vehicle is designed for the E tire.
@@LibertyOrD___h The GEN1 Raptor comes out of the factory with Load E tires. Someone put Load C tires on after the Load E tires needed replacement. I assume the last owner put the wrong tires on.
@@toddstjohn739 The original tires were actually load range D BF Goodrich KOs. Those are long discontinued now, and load D is really hard to find if not impossible these days, so you should be using Load E for replacements. I think the Gen2 Raptor and later uses Load C, so that why people use them on the Gen 1, but that is a big mistake. The Gen2 and later use an aluminum body and much lighter V6, and weighs a lot less than a steel Gen 1 with its iron boat anchor V8.
AUX switches are not Drive modes, but Auxiliary power switches for powered accessories (light bars, air pumps, winches). THe drive modes are selected on the side button on the gear shifter in the center stack.The steering wheel is missing a red "centered" marker
The tire tread is 315 millimeters wide and the sidewall is 70% of 315 mm (220.5 mm). The height of the tire would be 441 mm of total sidewall height plus 431.8 mm of 17" rim height = 872.8 mm or 34.3622 inches. (34.5 inches)
@RichieRichpobutproud The tire dimensions are a combination of Metric and Imperial units. Tire width in mm, aspect ratio for tire height, and rim size in inches. Also, 12.5 for aspect ratio is incorrect. The correct numbers are 315/70R17 for these tires.
I had both of my manifolds go bad on my 2012 Raptor, my buddy actually found that lifting the cab off the frame is the EASIEST way to work on the manifolds
Didn't know Tyler had this not-quite-a-Hooptie Raptor. The mileage *is* impressive, the service routine obviously less-so, at least from what you're working on.
That truck is in better condition than a lot of trucks with only 100k miles. This truck was obviously serviced and maintained exceptionally well to look like this at 300k
I think the work is probably done, but the easiest way to get broken studs out is to arc gouge them with a thin gouging rod and remove with an extraction kit. The gouging rod shoudl be less than half the diameter of the stud so it can be moved a little and a molten metal can escape. Second easiest is a put a copper tube that just fits into the manifold in, and build the stud up with weld by repeatedly zapping it. You either build up a shank on the outside and remove with vicegrips, or you weld a nut on and use a wrench. Third is if you pull the manifold and the stud is above the surface. Get or build a very heavy set a jumper cables, or use a welder in short circuit mode. If jumper cables, you're looking for 0 gauge cables or thereabouts. Hook to a battery as normal. on engine side, negative goes to the engine close to the stud, and positive is touched to the bolt till it gets over red hot. remove positive, and put candle wax on it. repeat several times. If using a welder, use DC mode, and hook up in same manner, and use the switch to turn the power on and off. An old transformer machine is better than the new IGBT machines. Use candle wax the same. Electricity can help break the corrosion between aluminum and steel. Also, the aluminum dissipates heat more readily than the steel, so when the bolt is heated to plastic, the bolt is pressed smaller, then shrinks in cooling causing the bolt to come out easier. This also works in cast iron heads, etc. IMHO, drilling is too much of a risk without removing the head and using a mill machine. You often times damage threads, etc. Not worth it IMHO with the other methods available.
@@LibertyOrD___h You're not trying to gouge the stud out. You're trying to gouge a hole up the center just like drilling it. And it's less risky than drilling. You can look into the hole and see if your going the right way, and change direction. And you don't have to worry about the drill starting off center. Just for clarity, when I say a fine gouging rod, I'm referring to something like a 1/16" diameter rod. The heat also breaks the corrosion, and a regular extractor spins them right out.
Replacing ONE CV shaft makes no sense- Do them both... It's like buying ONE Tire. ALSO, Raptors need the Fox shocks rebuilt every 30k-45k miles. When I had mine, I would change all the fluids besides the oil, every 30k miles... If you have a Raptor and use it, it's a good idea and cheap insurance.
I have a '14 Interceptor Utility that has 150k and 13,800 Engine hours (8,994 idle hours) and it works and drives really well. By Fords logic this truck has the equivalent of 450k miles on it, and incredibly you can still see the factory hone marks in the cylinder and even the QR codes on the tops of the pistons. Some Fords arent half bad.
Hey Mrs wizard, Don’t forget to tell us how much was the final bill for this raptor, also the way you keep the video length short is very smart, you get more views this way. Just perfect
I own a 2010 f150 4.6l 3v automatic transmission 2wd Wondering if you would suggest repairing the transmission lines and installing a aftermarket cooler with a electric fan bypassing the lines running through the radiator and replacing the factory radiator with a aluminum 3 core blocking the transmission inputs
If the old part broke 2 times in the same way, why buy the same bad OEM part to fix it? Unless there are no other options I would think aftermarket may have improved the design.
I've replaced many of those exhaust manifold studs in my years at the dealership. They were not a very good design, much too small a diameter for the job.
My 2000 f250 5.4 2 valve 4x4 has 292,000 & counting on it…… of course I do meticulous maintenance on it…. & every button on the truck work’s except the cruise control
I think so! However the 6.2 is less likely to devolope a leak due to the fact that the 6.2 has 8mm manifold studs where the 5.4 has wimpy 6mm studs that break.
I love hearing from mrs wizard and I love her vibe.. I think I understand the feedback.. I would love to have a bit more vehicle information rather than a detail on cleanliness, maybe tell us about the special features of each car? I for one wouldn't mind a more informative presentation from mrs w but hell I love your content and shes so relaxing to listen to so I watch her anyway. You make a great on screen pair, always awesome with each other and I really hope not to offend anyone (especially not mrs w!!) but just thought id give my 2bobs worth.. love you all and really look forward to all your material xxx
@@majist0 2900 pounds with 164 hp? 0-60 in 8.5 seconds, the 200 hp version did it in 7.5 seconds. These were really decent cars, but in Europe they called the Probe/626 twins the "un-cars", because while they were very reliable and had no faults....They weren't spectacular in any category either. They kind of just existed. I had a '92 Volkswagen Corrado SLC on the other hand that was a tiger, and the direct competitor. And twice the car with WAY better performance. Don't get me wrong, the 626 was basically a small Lexus, VERY refined with an engine that sounded just like a Ferrari Dino, a great car.
My guess would be East Texas north of the Lufkin or about there. Red dirt and no rust. Red dirt is in East Texas, If you are close to the coast you have rust.
Am I the only person that saw the intro to Hoovies video from two weeks ago? He jumps the Raptor and lands it on the front right wheel. It looks like a hard enough landing to do the damage that’s being blamed on the truck.
nope just a 315 70 r17. a 33 or 35 will actually have it in the description. like my 33x12.50 r15's.. i dont know how or why they get that designation, im sure i could google it lol.
Why cant manufacturers just use the integrated exhaust manifold design? The manifold is integrated to the head, and it connects to a single outlet to the cat. I replaced cats on my 2016 jeep with the pentastar (which has that design) and it was not easy, but not too labor intensive either. And no broken bolts, because they are a bolt design. No studs and nuts. Just make sure to thread those bolts back right, or you will have a REALLY bad day 🤣
Hey how are you is a Jamie I got 2014 Ford F150 3.5 EcoBoost twin turbo will you be so kind to make a video and talk about how good the engine is thank you so much and I watch your videos all the time
The videos are allways intresting, however those who say that miss wizard is boring with her interior speech. There will be allways something that people won't like. If you dont like it, skip the part. As for me i do enjoy seeing interior and keep the videos up! They are great!
My son's Raptor blew the transmission at 100K miles and has the cam phasers have been replaced 4 times. DO NOT BUY A RAPTOR UNLESS YOU WANT TO SPEND THOUSANDS IN REPAIRS.
That is not this truck though. You mentioned cam phasers, so you're talking about a Gen2 Raptor. That has a completely different engine (Turbo V6) and 10-speed transmission (10R80). This 1st gen has a reliable old V8 and a simple but pretty stout 6-speed transmission (6R80)
This is going to be an EXPENSIVE repair. All that work to fix a minor ticking noise from the engine, which is just an exhaust leak? And this on a truck with 300k+ miles~? You know, I think I would fix the axle and just leave the exhaust leak alone at this point. Then again, this truck is owned by the "Dumbest Automotive Channel On TH-cam"; Tyler Hoover had a beautiful 928 and sold it~ Great video!
Frankly, after this repair, I wonder if DanielSan is thinking of going back to Central Flori-Duh and the enormous car community that exists there....@@theyunglos
Car wizard! If you see this I need some insight, I want to buy a diesel 1 ton ford, don't have the money for a new 6.7L so I'm looking between 7.3s and 'built' 6.0s. any input would be greatly appreciated
Half shaft breaking? Not too surprising. I suspect when you have 300K mileage, unequal-length half-shafts and 400HP, the shorter half-shaft is going to wear out sooner, since it has a greater angle of suspension travel it has to cover. Add to that Hoovies' heavy right foot and you get a "KABOOM" event. Luckily that half shaft did go all Num-chuk over the rest of the frontend too badly.
Yep. Ask any off-roader who owns a Toyota or Jeep. A spare CV joint/shaft is always in the kit as you can easily blow one out on a rock or getting over a hole.
Raptor has money to spend on aftermarket hot rod parts, but no money for a OEM brake cable. Where are your priorities? Brakes are much more important than the shocks.
Wizard, so refreshing to have a calm, knowledgeable, and humble car guy on TH-cam. You’re proof that you don’t need click-bait or phrenetic narrative. Here’s to you being a beacon to others, even outside the shop I’m sure, and setting an honorable example. Merry Christmas.
I've had to replace a few exhaust headers on different makes of vehicles over the years, and I've never broken a bolt yet.
One trick I learned is let the engine run for 10 minutes or so (you could go for a drive as well) shut it off and then carefully crack all the header bolts free, then wait till they fully cool down and finish removing them. Using a torch on a cold bolt never seems to transfer the heat deep inside the threads as well as "heat soaking" the engine from it running a while. This also works great on spark plugs that are really "seized in" especially if that are dissimilar metals
You just spin them back and forth til they come put like removing ford spark plugs
That's if the bolt wasn't broken before you started. It appears this bolt broke and caused the exhaust leak. It is really common on Chevy for broken manifold bolts.
My ways better if time allows 😅.
Spray PB on them once in the morning and after work when nice heat soaked Then impact them.
I spray them for 4 days.
Basically I ordered headers. That's when I started to spray them. Cold and hott 😅
@@Fossillarsonthe impact part of your comment makes me cringe as I’m in the rust belt.
I have three siezed spark plugs and scared to snap them whenever u get to working on my car I could try this
I hope your recovery is quick and as pain free as possible Wizard.
I know Toyota refuses to put locking diffs in the front (at least they used to). They said it would guarantee a broken axle.
Something has to give. Super wide and grippy tyres=no wheel slip.
Locking diff=no slip.
In between is the axle and CV joints=snap.
And the passenger side is less "looked at" by the driver...
so gnarly bits on that side of the vehicle that could cause problems are far les likely to be seen or assessed by the driver...who just can't see them.
It happens to right hand drive vehicles....but just opposite.....left side CV and axles go snap.....
These don't have locking front diffs either. The first few years were actually open differentials up front, and I think in 2012 or so they added a Torsen LSD (helical I believe) up front, so still not an actual locker, just something to transfer some torque to the wheel with better grip.
My 2004 Ram Hemi also has over 300,000 miles- all original beside F pump, p/s rack, and brakes, fluids.
Still runs excellent.
Also both CV shafts replaced and the "axle stubs" that go into the front diff.
It is a "Laramie" edition w/ AWD and 4 wd H and L.
Whoever adjusted the shocks to mid perch and rebuilt them did not assemble them correctly, the perches and springs aren't in the correct orientation. The axles arent a weak point at all unless the alignment is way out or you do something really stupid. Speaking of alignment the LCA cam adjusters which were installed are totally wrong.
I just watched hoovie, and i had that surgery you had, and it was worse than the other 14 surgeries i had. Pulling the packing out of my nose was the worst part, i was not expecting it to be so rough. I do appreciate being able to breathe through my nose, and no more snoring. I came out backwards in 1971, and part of that is why i had snored since i was a kid, and had nose bleeds all the time as a kid. The surgery is worth it, but not fun to have. G-d bless from one of your ten female viewer's lol. I know your wife will be happy to have the snoring fixed lol.
The exhaust manifold repair is no joke. That's a lot of work with no guarantee of success. I get why this is labor intensive.
But it is worth the money to do it right. Exhaust leaks can be very dangerous for the occupants of the vehicle. Exhaust fumes can make you delusional behind the wheel and cause serious health problems.
Hoovie needs to be a test driver , he could find any weakness .
I hate hoovie but his wife is hot 🔥😂
Did you replace the hub with the upgraded one? their was a recall due to water intrusion which caused water to wash the greese away in the cv axle and then failure
Man, he jumped a hill with this truck. It was a high jump and he landed it over the passenger frontside wheel. The moment I saw it I said something broke 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Hoovie is reality TV. Don't be silly.
I was watching an old episode of CHiPs the other day and there was a Blue and White Citroen just like yours driving down the freeway on 3 wheels. I thought that was so cool.
I was watching that episode too a couple weeks ago. Thought I was the only one.😂
@@khalifgreen581 I watch a lot of old shows on different streaming channels, sometimes when they crash a car that is now considered a valuable collector car I kind of cry inside.
I don't know if anyone pointed this out, but is see the tire is a Load Range C. Yes, they are cheaper than the Load Range E, but the vehicle is designed for the E tire.
If there’s a blowout and accident it could be a very big lawsuit 😮
@@LibertyOrD___h
The GEN1 Raptor comes out of the factory with Load E tires. Someone put Load C tires on after the Load E tires needed replacement. I assume the last owner put the wrong tires on.
@@toddstjohn739 The original tires were actually load range D BF Goodrich KOs. Those are long discontinued now, and load D is really hard to find if not impossible these days, so you should be using Load E for replacements. I think the Gen2 Raptor and later uses Load C, so that why people use them on the Gen 1, but that is a big mistake. The Gen2 and later use an aluminum body and much lighter V6, and weighs a lot less than a steel Gen 1 with its iron boat anchor V8.
AUX switches are not Drive modes, but Auxiliary power switches for powered accessories (light bars, air pumps, winches). THe drive modes are selected on the side button on the gear shifter in the center stack.The steering wheel is missing a red "centered" marker
Lol. She tried...
The tire tread is 315 millimeters wide and the sidewall is 70% of 315 mm (220.5 mm). The height of the tire would be 441 mm of total sidewall height plus 431.8 mm of 17" rim height = 872.8 mm or 34.3622 inches. (34.5 inches)
So 35/12.50/17? Stupid metric system
@RichieRichpobutproud The tire dimensions are a combination of Metric and Imperial units. Tire width in mm, aspect ratio for tire height, and rim size in inches. Also, 12.5 for aspect ratio is incorrect. The correct numbers are 315/70R17 for these tires.
I had both of my manifolds go bad on my 2012 Raptor, my buddy actually found that lifting the cab off the frame is the EASIEST way to work on the manifolds
Didn't know Tyler had this not-quite-a-Hooptie Raptor. The mileage *is* impressive, the service routine obviously less-so, at least from what you're working on.
That truck is in better condition than a lot of trucks with only 100k miles. This truck was obviously serviced and maintained exceptionally well to look like this at 300k
This truck has about 200 miles more than mine and yet the paint looks a whole lot better. My truck is also a Texas truck.
Original 2011 Raptor SuperCrew owner..315/70/17 = 34.5-Ford claims it as a 35 inch tire..But its actually 34.5
I think the work is probably done, but the easiest way to get broken studs out is to arc gouge them with a thin gouging rod and remove with an extraction kit. The gouging rod shoudl be less than half the diameter of the stud so it can be moved a little and a molten metal can escape.
Second easiest is a put a copper tube that just fits into the manifold in, and build the stud up with weld by repeatedly zapping it. You either build up a shank on the outside and remove with vicegrips, or you weld a nut on and use a wrench.
Third is if you pull the manifold and the stud is above the surface. Get or build a very heavy set a jumper cables, or use a welder in short circuit mode. If jumper cables, you're looking for 0 gauge cables or thereabouts. Hook to a battery as normal. on engine side, negative goes to the engine close to the stud, and positive is touched to the bolt till it gets over red hot. remove positive, and put candle wax on it. repeat several times. If using a welder, use DC mode, and hook up in same manner, and use the switch to turn the power on and off. An old transformer machine is better than the new IGBT machines. Use candle wax the same.
Electricity can help break the corrosion between aluminum and steel. Also, the aluminum dissipates heat more readily than the steel, so when the bolt is heated to plastic, the bolt is pressed smaller, then shrinks in cooling causing the bolt to come out easier. This also works in cast iron heads, etc.
IMHO, drilling is too much of a risk without removing the head and using a mill machine. You often times damage threads, etc. Not worth it IMHO with the other methods available.
Never heard of gouging out a broken bolt before, seems like to much room for error imo
@@LibertyOrD___h You're not trying to gouge the stud out. You're trying to gouge a hole up the center just like drilling it. And it's less risky than drilling. You can look into the hole and see if your going the right way, and change direction. And you don't have to worry about the drill starting off center.
Just for clarity, when I say a fine gouging rod, I'm referring to something like a 1/16" diameter rod.
The heat also breaks the corrosion, and a regular extractor spins them right out.
Replacing ONE CV shaft makes no sense- Do them both... It's like buying ONE Tire. ALSO, Raptors need the Fox shocks rebuilt every 30k-45k miles. When I had mine, I would change all the fluids besides the oil, every 30k miles... If you have a Raptor and use it, it's a good idea and cheap insurance.
That truck survived 360,000 miles and Hoovy broke it. Figures.
I have a '14 Interceptor Utility that has 150k and 13,800 Engine hours (8,994 idle hours) and it works and drives really well. By Fords logic this truck has the equivalent of 450k miles on it, and incredibly you can still see the factory hone marks in the cylinder and even the QR codes on the tops of the pistons. Some Fords arent half bad.
6.2 raptors were the best ones by far
Ford Raptor R has entered the chat...
Boy older trucks are better 🤣
Hey Mrs wizard, Don’t forget to tell us how much was the final bill for this raptor, also the way you keep the video length short is very smart, you get more views this way. Just perfect
The exhaust manifolds on a 3 valve expedition, or Explorer is no fun job I found it easier to just remove the heads on the 2 I worked on
Anything that Hoovie touches falls apart 😂
I own a 2010 f150 4.6l 3v automatic transmission 2wd
Wondering if you would suggest repairing the transmission lines and installing a aftermarket cooler with a electric fan bypassing the lines running through the radiator and replacing the factory radiator with a aluminum 3 core blocking the transmission inputs
Considering the mileage underneath looks really good
If the old part broke 2 times in the same way, why buy the same bad OEM part to fix it? Unless there are no other options I would think aftermarket may have improved the design.
Wizard doesn't know trucks
The steering wheel is actually missing the orange leather center stripe. It's there to 6:57 show top center on the wheel.
Maybe you should change the starter too while you're at it. It looks like you have to take the engine out to do it.
I've replaced many of those exhaust manifold studs in my years at the dealership. They were not a very good design, much too small a diameter for the job.
I think if I were given the job of removing the broken exhaust manifold stud I would fail and be let go - that looks VERY difficult
Glad you're getting over your surgery wizard, my thoughts are with you and Mrs wizard.
Tires are about 35x12.50x17.
My 2000 f250 5.4 2 valve 4x4 has 292,000 & counting on it…… of course I do meticulous maintenance on it…. & every button on the truck work’s except the cruise control
So it seems the 6.2 have the same exhaust routine as the 5.4
You have to jack up the engine to get the manifold to clear.
I think so! However the 6.2 is less likely to devolope a leak due to the fact that the 6.2 has 8mm manifold studs where the 5.4 has wimpy 6mm studs that break.
Jumpin' the Raptor...not the best of ideas...Oh, Hoovie!
Hoovie needs some floormats!
34.5" tires. I have the same size in Patagonia's on my 00' expedition.
Hope u feel better. Had my nose done before and it’s the worst pain
I love hearing from mrs wizard and I love her vibe.. I think I understand the feedback.. I would love to have a bit more vehicle information rather than a detail on cleanliness, maybe tell us about the special features of each car? I for one wouldn't mind a more informative presentation from mrs w but hell I love your content and shes so relaxing to listen to so I watch her anyway. You make a great on screen pair, always awesome with each other and I really hope not to offend anyone (especially not mrs w!!) but just thought id give my 2bobs worth.. love you all and really look forward to all your material xxx
Great video Wizard. Hope you feel better soon 👍
Hope theres a video on that mazda 626 in the back. hope its a gt love em . keep up the great work wizard.
164 screaming horsepower~
It also weighs nothing so doesn’t matter. Sadly we never got the 200 horsepower version.
@@majist0 2900 pounds with 164 hp? 0-60 in 8.5 seconds, the 200 hp version did it in 7.5 seconds. These were really decent cars, but in Europe they called the Probe/626 twins the "un-cars", because while they were very reliable and had no faults....They weren't spectacular in any category either. They kind of just existed.
I had a '92 Volkswagen Corrado SLC on the other hand that was a tiger, and the direct competitor. And twice the car with WAY better performance.
Don't get me wrong, the 626 was basically a small Lexus, VERY refined with an engine that sounded just like a Ferrari Dino, a great car.
Daniellson could use a tea cup candle wax to help with the rusty bolts. I hear it works better than penetration fluid
My guess would be East Texas north of the Lufkin or about there. Red dirt and no rust. Red dirt is in East Texas, If you are close to the coast you have rust.
8:15 would love to see a video on that white Ford Ranger in the background!
Mrs. Wizard with the zingers love it!!!
"Thouse Big numbers at the end of Hoovie's Bill, that's what I call happiness" Mr Wizzard. 😂😂😂😂
What's that orange space-ship looking car in the background ..? I think I've seen it now in a couple of videos and it's making me curious
I hope your neck gets feeling better soon, love the videos
What a pain those manifold bolts are
I wonder if Hoovie gets a discount on his vehicles featured on the wizards channel?
Wizard, those tires in inches are 33.4" high x 12" wide
Am I the only person that saw the intro to Hoovies video from two weeks ago? He jumps the Raptor and lands it on the front right wheel. It looks like a hard enough landing to do the damage that’s being blamed on the truck.
nope just a 315 70 r17. a 33 or 35 will actually have it in the description. like my 33x12.50 r15's.. i dont know how or why they get that designation, im sure i could google it lol.
You should've bought rock climber glasses so you could see up without moving your head
😂 absolutely genius
Why cant manufacturers just use the integrated exhaust manifold design? The manifold is integrated to the head, and it connects to a single outlet to the cat. I replaced cats on my 2016 jeep with the pentastar (which has that design) and it was not easy, but not too labor intensive either. And no broken bolts, because they are a bolt design. No studs and nuts. Just make sure to thread those bolts back right, or you will have a REALLY bad day 🤣
Just bought a 2019 raptor nice truck I must say more comfy than a Cadillacs car also really fast mine does 0 60 in 4:2 seconds
“It’s a beefy shaft Mrs. Wizard…..”
“It’s got some length to it as well.”
😳🤪 #NeedASmoke
I'm originally from N.J. anything over 10 yrs or 120k miles is usually so rotted out its ready for the junkyard
Wisconsin is no different. nephew has a 2012 gmc with 150k miles and its all rusted to shi#.
What no car washes-and do the under for sure
would it just be easier to divorce the cab from the frame?
So given how in-accessible the exhaust manifold is do you recommend avoiding the 6.2 V8 or Raptors in general?
Hey how are you is a Jamie I got 2014 Ford F150 3.5 EcoBoost twin turbo will you be so kind to make a video and talk about how good the engine is thank you so much and I watch your videos all the time
The videos are allways intresting, however those who say that miss wizard is boring with her interior speech. There will be allways something that people won't like. If you dont like it, skip the part. As for me i do enjoy seeing interior and keep the videos up! They are great!
That’s a beefy shaft Mrs wizard 😅
I've got n 03 Expedition and the exhaust manifold studs are duds.
315/70/17 is 34.6in tall aka 35in tall tire
Great video Ford tough 💪🏻
Over 300k what you expect Wizard? With that mileage no shit its time for some big repair bills!!.
that CV shaft went most likely cause hes on mid perch with those shocks.
Dame Mr.Wizard you lost alot of weight man 🏋️♀️ way to go im trying to loose some myself
those 315/70-17 tires measure out to 34.4"
what is that orange car o the lift in the back.
the truck as had 25,000 plus gallon of gas run through it
one of those oil wells in texas probably fed this beast.
GET WELL SOON WIZARD 😊
I have a 2012 Harley Davidson edition with this engine with 129k on it. I plan on driving this truck to the wheels fall off.
Wizard, you really need to stop pushing Mrs. Wizard' channel before people stop watching your videos because of it.
My son's Raptor blew the transmission at 100K miles and has the cam phasers have been replaced 4 times. DO NOT BUY A RAPTOR UNLESS YOU WANT TO SPEND THOUSANDS IN REPAIRS.
Or maybe your son was driving it very rough and pushing it’s limits
That is not this truck though. You mentioned cam phasers, so you're talking about a Gen2 Raptor. That has a completely different engine (Turbo V6) and 10-speed transmission (10R80). This 1st gen has a reliable old V8 and a simple but pretty stout 6-speed transmission (6R80)
That brake hose is stretched bad. Its holding the whole knuckle half cocked.
3:17 poor brake hose. As tight as a string. hopefully they will install new ones.
Check out the Stoney Ridge Farmer channel for his Ford raptor issues!
Hope you recover quickly from your surgery, don’t overdo it in the meantime
This is going to be an EXPENSIVE repair.
All that work to fix a minor ticking noise from the engine, which is just an exhaust leak? And this on a truck with 300k+ miles~? You know, I think I would fix the axle and just leave the exhaust leak alone at this point.
Then again, this truck is owned by the "Dumbest Automotive Channel On TH-cam"; Tyler Hoover had a beautiful 928 and sold it~
Great video!
TOWING CHANNEL you mean ....loooooooooool
Frankly, after this repair, I wonder if DanielSan is thinking of going back to Central Flori-Duh and the enormous car community that exists there....@@theyunglos
1:25 that would be 17 inch rims
I thought you’d know that the number rep beside the R part like the R17 in that case indicates the room size in inches
I believe she is referring to the tire height in inches (A la 35 Inches Tall). The tire size is around 34.5 or 35 if Ford is to be believed.
That's right, they were referring to tire size, not rim size. 😉
Offloading, they talk about tire height/diameter.
Car wizard! If you see this I need some insight, I want to buy a diesel 1 ton ford, don't have the money for a new 6.7L so I'm looking between 7.3s and 'built' 6.0s. any input would be greatly appreciated
I just had a serious sinus surgery too, not a joke that’s for sure. Get well soon.
I feel for the Car Wizard having to work with the Car Clown, Hoovie. He is quite the joke and one you cannot taken seriously.
'this is a real beefy shaft mrs wizard, um yea its got some length to it as well'
I would just put a new bolt on and torque it tight. Probably take care of it, that's way to much work
The dust is a special feature hoovie added to his Ford Raptor. Cleaning it will diminish the value by 50%
Half shaft breaking? Not too surprising. I suspect when you have 300K mileage, unequal-length half-shafts and 400HP, the shorter half-shaft is going to wear out sooner, since it has a greater angle of suspension travel it has to cover. Add to that Hoovies' heavy right foot and you get a "KABOOM" event. Luckily that half shaft did go all Num-chuk over the rest of the frontend too badly.
Yep. Ask any off-roader who owns a Toyota or Jeep. A spare CV joint/shaft is always in the kit as you can easily blow one out on a rock or getting over a hole.
It's clear that Hoovie has the curse of the raptor!
Raptor has money to spend on aftermarket hot rod parts, but no money for a OEM brake cable. Where are your priorities? Brakes are much more important than the shocks.
2:23 no replacement for displacement
Glad to see your better
You need borrow Bob from @bendinwithbendon for all your pointing and instruction needs 🤣🤣🤣
Hope your feeling better Wizard.
Awesome vídeo brother thank you
Feel better wizard! Didn’t know you had surgery
Get well Wizard!