Hi Jake, Its nice for me to see an artisan demonstrating his techniques. Nice pace to the video too. Thank you. The subtitles do not seem necessary and are often incorrect.
This is really beautiful very detailed and extremely easy to follow. I’d like to know what kind is the yellow tape and where can I get it. Thank you for sharing your incredible expertise.
Hi Jake, great detailed video. Would you happen to have a video on applying the veneer to substrate or know a resource online for me to get this info ? I’m looking at veenering some kitchen cabinets. Thanks
derrick tse hi Derrick, I believe my apprentice has filmed me on how I apply the instant bond glue. His page is on Instagram as “becoming a craftsman” I don’t know his exact username right now, but if you search, it should come up.
How do you avoid a gap when you unfold? You are using the side down on your plane where the blade is flush with the shoe, right? The high point of the blade is up? My joint still works great, but simply unfolding the joint after planing resulted in a big gap for me
Typically the gap happens when the fence has a slight curve. Basically the plane follows that curve and multiplies it by two. As for the plane iron, you can try to skew it slightly, so that it only cuts the veneer and the fence stays uncut. By the way, there’s another technique I use-I’ve not seen anyone else do it. Basically I use a very think cutting razor blade-and I cut both veneers at the same pass. This way, even if I’m a bit off the line, both veneers get the same join line. This only works with softer woods. It won’t work on oak too well, for example.
Well, from all different methods, such as cutting both joining parts with a thick razor blade, or even using a fabric cutter-the one with revolving razor cutter-this technique in the video came out to be the most accurate one. All others left a gap or a seam line that was visible. The main secret in getting very accurate joinery with this technique is to have a perfectly straight shooting board for the plane iron.
Troy Grant your observation is right on the money! Yes it does help sit the joined halves better. But always keep in mind, different thickness veneers with different adhesives will move around differently. For instance, lately I’ve been working with quartered walnut veneers making reverse diamond shaped drawer fronts and because of the weather humidity I’ve been having some issues with the bookmatched aspect of the joints. So in this case it’s either to wait a while before removing the clamps or wait for a better climate condition. Luckily the veneers I’m working with have a 1/32nd thickness so I’ll be able to scrape off the glue residues - in this case I will even consider using a veneer splicer...
may I also ask how thick these veneers are? are they just veneer skins or on a 3mm backing? how can I do perfect joints for veneer on 3mm plywood backing? appreciate all the help.
Vince Tablante these are paper back veneers. This technique can be used on all types of veneers. To make a perfect joint, make sure your straight edge is perfectly straight and not cupped or bowed, because if it is, then it will create a gap between the veneer join edges. Also, slightly offset the plane blade as I showed in this video. This way two halves of the veneers will sit on nicely.
Hi Jake, maybe you can help out I've been having a hard time finding answers on the net. I have left my tape too long on the veneer and have residues. Any idea how I can get rid of them? I used Tesa 4333 precision masking tape because I had no alternative... Thanks.
romain J hi Romain, It really depends on the veneer. My veneers are about 1/16" thick and when there's residue I just use a small cabinet scraper and get rid of the imperfections.
The problem with this method is that it is very stressful and time consuming. Also, this method has another problem, which is that you will get a magnification of the error for any asymmetry between the edges 🌹🌹❤️ 🌹🌹🌹🌹
Did you get to get a glimpse of Woody Hyezmar's Woodworking Bible? I found it on google thanks to Jeremy, there's some solid stuff in there though it does still need some work.
Joe Seremeth I've used 3M 301+ tape. I make sure I don't leave the tape on for overnight because even with this tape there may be a small amount of the tacking residue left on some veneers.
why don't you just use a bearing cutter in a router, run it against your straight edge and back-cut the veneer? Much quicker, easier and a more professional job!
Clive Johnson a straight edge can have slight discrepancies which, if guided by the small abrasion surface of the router bit bearing in result can show wide gaps at Veneer joints-that is why a hand plane has a long sole which ignores these discrepancies. A more professional way would be a use of a veneer fabricating machinery, such as guillotines, splicers, et cetera. This technique is more for individual furniture making where tasks of the work don’t repeat always.
Brilliant! Wish I saw this vid a couple of years ago when I started veneers. Thank you for your time and teaching me some things I never knew before.
HI Jake this is a great technique, thank you very much for showing that with nice depth of detail
Hi Jake, Its nice for me to see an artisan demonstrating his techniques. Nice pace to the video too.
Thank you.
The subtitles do not seem necessary and are often incorrect.
Robert Horner thanks Robert! I think the subtitles are editable by the viewers.
Wow! How very straightforward with the outcome of a professionally finished job!
This is really beautiful very detailed and extremely easy to follow. I’d like to know what kind is the yellow tape and where can I get it. Thank you for sharing your incredible expertise.
You answered so many questions for me! Thank you.😊
Gonna use this info to get one up on some of the guys at work its all of our first time for applying veneer
this is exactly what I'm looking for!
Great technique Jake, not that I'll ever use it, but I still enjoyed watching an artist at work :)
Happy New Year to you and yours my friend
Mike
Thanks dear Mike! Wish you and Muriel happy new year!
hello jake thank you very much for this demonstration spot on pro level veneer work
Thank you so much, this is the technique I was looking for
Thank you. I used your technique and it went perfect.
hi great informational video. do you have a demo on how to make perfect edgings for veneer shelves or cabinets?
Hi Jake, great detailed video. Would you happen to have a video on applying the veneer to substrate or know a resource online for me to get this info ? I’m looking at veenering some kitchen cabinets. Thanks
derrick tse hi Derrick, I believe my apprentice has filmed me on how I apply the instant bond glue. His page is on Instagram as “becoming a craftsman” I don’t know his exact username right now, but if you search, it should come up.
Nicely done!
How do you avoid a gap when you unfold? You are using the side down on your plane where the blade is flush with the shoe, right? The high point of the blade is up?
My joint still works great, but simply unfolding the joint after planing resulted in a big gap for me
Typically the gap happens when the fence has a slight curve. Basically the plane follows that curve and multiplies it by two.
As for the plane iron, you can try to skew it slightly, so that it only cuts the veneer and the fence stays uncut.
By the way, there’s another technique I use-I’ve not seen anyone else do it. Basically I use a very think cutting razor blade-and I cut both veneers at the same pass. This way, even if I’m a bit off the line, both veneers get the same join line. This only works with softer woods. It won’t work on oak too well, for example.
Sorry-I made a typo-I don’t use a very thick razor blade. I use a very THIN razor blade.
Thanks for sharing. Would you use the same technique for much smaller pieces , like 30 inches by 8 inch flitches?
Well, from all different methods, such as cutting both joining parts with a thick razor blade, or even using a fabric cutter-the one with revolving razor cutter-this technique in the video came out to be the most accurate one. All others left a gap or a seam line that was visible. The main secret in getting very accurate joinery with this technique is to have a perfectly straight shooting board for the plane iron.
Excellent tips! Thank you Jake.
David Smith you are very welcome!
great technique, explain the bevel cut with plane please, I cant get my mind around that? does it help hide the joint like a miter???
Troy Grant your observation is right on the money! Yes it does help sit the joined halves better. But always keep in mind, different thickness veneers with different adhesives will move around differently. For instance, lately I’ve been working with quartered walnut veneers making reverse diamond shaped drawer fronts and because of the weather humidity I’ve been having some issues with the bookmatched aspect of the joints. So in this case it’s either to wait a while before removing the clamps or wait for a better climate condition. Luckily the veneers I’m working with have a 1/32nd thickness so I’ll be able to scrape off the glue residues - in this case I will even consider using a veneer splicer...
very helpful video. Can you tell me what"s the veneer name that you"re using?
onepickymen1 the veneer is made by GL Veneer company and it’s Quartered Walnut
Am seeing walnut quarter cut
may I also ask how thick these veneers are? are they just veneer skins or on a 3mm backing? how can I do perfect joints for veneer on 3mm plywood backing? appreciate all the help.
Vince Tablante these are paper back veneers. This technique can be used on all types of veneers. To make a perfect joint, make sure your straight edge is perfectly straight and not cupped or bowed, because if it is, then it will create a gap between the veneer join edges. Also, slightly offset the plane blade as I showed in this video. This way two halves of the veneers will sit on nicely.
Thanks for sharing this is great!
Superb helpful video. Many thanks
Very helpful…thank you.
Thanks great video
I wish sound was better to help me understand but video was great.
great job! thanks for the tip
Well done. Thank you! Very informative! A+++
BibleOrTraditions you’re very welcome
This is great job
bravo.what veneer is that ?
Looks like American black walnut
@@Leroyy536 tnx
Thanks, Jake ... very informative and useful video.
Thank you Gerald
Good videos
Hi Jake, maybe you can help out I've been having a hard time finding answers on the net. I have left my tape too long on the veneer and have residues. Any idea how I can get rid of them? I used Tesa 4333 precision masking tape because I had no alternative... Thanks.
romain J hi Romain,
It really depends on the veneer. My veneers are about 1/16" thick and when there's residue I just use a small cabinet scraper and get rid of the imperfections.
The oil will interact with any finish applied later. Not a good idea unless mineral oil is the intended finish.
The problem with this method is that it is very stressful and time consuming. Also, this method has another problem, which is that you will get a magnification of the error for any asymmetry between the edges
🌹🌹❤️
🌹🌹🌹🌹
Very good info!
Thanks John
segeroffff
Did you get to get a glimpse of Woody Hyezmar's Woodworking Bible? I found it on google thanks to Jeremy, there's some solid stuff in there though it does still need some work.
What kind of tape are you using? Who is the manufacturer? It seems to have alot of nice properties - stretch, low tack, bright color...
Joe Seremeth I've used 3M 301+ tape. I make sure I don't leave the tape on for overnight because even with this tape there may be a small amount of the tacking residue left on some veneers.
Sorry but sound level was too low to hear what you were saying. Looked to be interesting though.
Sorry to hear that. Ask me any questions you've got about this.
why don't you just use a bearing cutter in a router, run it against your straight edge and back-cut the veneer? Much quicker, easier and a more professional job!
Clive Johnson a straight edge can have slight discrepancies which, if guided by the small abrasion surface of the router bit bearing in result can show wide gaps at Veneer joints-that is why a hand plane has a long sole which ignores these discrepancies. A more professional way would be a use of a veneer fabricating machinery, such as guillotines, splicers, et cetera. This technique is more for individual furniture making where tasks of the work don’t repeat always.
thank you for taking the time to reply.👍
Leminet joint
Crap, I only have a number 3.
Use it as a scrub plane and get a number 4
Ok
tyquis loverss