Yay !!.... Another JP vid !! 🤗 As a kid, I used to love watching my late father, a cabinetmaker, doing veneer and inlay work in our garage... all handtools... Today, at 66y.o., I am still in awe of his skills... a machinist by trade myself, I started (DIY) woodworking about 10 years ago as an hommage to him.. Thank you Jon.. 😎👍☘️🍻
Almost a million subscribers, well deserved! I think my very first video was the TV lift cabinet, which I still need to build 😅Always love your videos, no matter what the content.
Jon, we know you've made many fine pieces of furniture for customers. Are clients typically looking for solid wood furniture? Do you typically discuss the benefits of veneer, presumably including its lower cost? The wider choice of exotic veneer woods suggests the client could feel more creative in pattern, tone, texture, etc choices. Or do they just see it as simply an imitation of sorts?
I'm in the process of sanding down and refinishing my kitchen. Next up is the plywood faces which I am planning to veneer. The problem is it's a vertical surface and I don't think contact cement would be a great option for that, especially since I won't be able to flush trim after the fact, it will have to be cut exact. Have you ever used contact cement on a vertical surface? How about an adhesive backed veneer?
Great video. Question: Do I have to veneer both sides when using non-water based contact adhesive. Just what I needed. I don't have a huge vacuum bag and pump. I find the ironing on wide sheets of veneer can cause cracking/splits in the veneer. So I was thinking that contact adhesive might be the answer. Thank you
I don't understand the economics of using veneer. Looks like you were using baltic birch as a substrate - I bought maple plywood furniture grade for far less than if I veneered baltic birch. I understand more exotic species are difficult to obtain as a piece of plywood - can you talk about the economics of veneer. How does money impact what substrate you use, etc.
I think it’s easier to veneer a box made the way he makes them then try and miter the corner of a box with a pre finished plywood. As the Baltic birch goes it may be more stable, less voids between ply’s which would help screw bite and grab a little better and it may be flatter. But I could be wrong lol.
Yay !!.... Another JP vid !! 🤗
As a kid, I used to love watching my late father, a cabinetmaker, doing veneer and inlay work in our garage... all handtools...
Today, at 66y.o., I am still in awe of his skills... a machinist by trade myself, I started (DIY) woodworking about 10 years ago as an hommage to him..
Thank you Jon..
😎👍☘️🍻
Almost a million subscribers, well deserved! I think my very first video was the TV lift cabinet, which I still need to build 😅Always love your videos, no matter what the content.
Another Jon Peters Master class~!! Thanks Jon~!
Thanks Andrew
Thanks, Jon!
Jon, we know you've made many fine pieces of furniture for customers. Are clients typically looking for solid wood furniture? Do you typically discuss the benefits of veneer, presumably including its lower cost? The wider choice of exotic veneer woods suggests the client could feel more creative in pattern, tone, texture, etc choices. Or do they just see it as simply an imitation of sorts?
It's something to shoot for after I master the box making process...
Thanks Jon...🤘🤘🤘
Many thanks for sharing, Jon!
Enjoy your Sunday!
Great tips Jon! I'd like to do some veneer projects and will definitely refer back to your video's when I'm ready.
Good video and info, thanks for sharing.
That's some nice veneer you're working with. That fumed eucalyptus is really attractive.
Awesome! Thanks for all the info, Jon! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great information.
Ahora solo me falta conseguir un proveedor de calidad de este lado del Río. Saludos
THANKS FOR THE GREAT VIDEO
thanks
I'm in the process of sanding down and refinishing my kitchen. Next up is the plywood faces which I am planning to veneer. The problem is it's a vertical surface and I don't think contact cement would be a great option for that, especially since I won't be able to flush trim after the fact, it will have to be cut exact. Have you ever used contact cement on a vertical surface? How about an adhesive backed veneer?
Great video. Question: Do I have to veneer both sides when using non-water based contact adhesive. Just what I needed. I don't have a huge vacuum bag and pump. I find the ironing on wide sheets of veneer can cause cracking/splits in the veneer. So I was thinking that contact adhesive might be the answer. Thank you
You should try using raw unbacked veneer. A wide variety of species and types of cuts available. Completely different process, but very rewarding.
Hi Jon,
what Milwaukee router is that please?
Thanks, Mike
Veneer, again?
I don't understand the economics of using veneer. Looks like you were using baltic birch as a substrate - I bought maple plywood furniture grade for far less than if I veneered baltic birch. I understand more exotic species are difficult to obtain as a piece of plywood - can you talk about the economics of veneer. How does money impact what substrate you use, etc.
I think it’s easier to veneer a box made the way he makes them then try and miter the corner of a box with a pre finished plywood. As the Baltic birch goes it may be more stable, less voids between ply’s which would help screw bite and grab a little better and it may be flatter. But I could be wrong lol.