Here are some links to some of the things i talked about in my video. Please leave a comment and thumbs up, it HELPS YOU TUBE PROMOTE MY VIDEO. Hope you liked my video dry lube teflon spray amzn.to/2Vojnp7 WD-40 dry lube teflon spray amzn.to/3elyYhM Supplies (5) 2x4 8ft (1) 2x8 8ft (1) 2x12 8ft 3" exterior wood screws (2) handles (4) 4" bolts Ramp (2) 2x12 28in (6) 2x4 23 1/4in Base (10) 2x4 11 1/2in (4) 2x4 20in (4) 2x4 23in (4) 2x8 11 1/2in ripped to 6 1/2in wide (2) 2x12 20in ** Support my channel by leaving a Dollar or two in my tip jar Thank you. www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_donations&business=2MTJWRFFTHLU4¤cy_code=USD&source=url Thank you very much for watching and God bless *Full transparency. I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
The first set of ramps I have seen that make sense (seriously). Strong, lighter in weight, and easier t store. I will be making these ramps for sure - though I may alter the design slightly. Thanks for putting this video out there for us all to get ideas from.
This has to be the 12th Dyi Ramp vid i have watched right now, but by far the nicest, best thought out one! The idea with the grinded down bolts to having a removable, yet secured ramp is pretty great!
As a youngster (yes, they had cars!) I had a set of ramps comprising essentially of 6 similar ramps. Put 2 down and drive forward up. Put 2 the same behind the rear wheels, then 2 similar, but turned over and locked into the slope on the front ramps. This allowed you drive back, with the rear wheels rising while the front ones stayed on the same elevated level. This gave you the front and rear off the ground making it a doddle to work on.
That's an interesting idea. That would be really handy for me since I have several cars that need the trans fluid checked from below with the vehicle sitting level.
Just watched your John Deere blade removal and enjoyed it. Subscribed because you are a great communicator and give instructions slowly. Keep up the great videos and thanks for the help.
Just finished making these. They are excellent! I ended up using my Sawzall then hand planer for the base 15 degree cut and the ramp 2x12 angled cuts. I attached ramp 2x4s first so I had a good guide for the blade. The other angle cuts I did on my sliding compound mitre saw. I referred back to your video numerous times. Your presentation style is absolutely excellent. It is like you are calmly explaining to friends that are there for the evening. Unscripted, genuine, honest, detailed, clear, and interesting. Measuring on the fly and offering so many tips and options. Thank you!
I know this video is 4 years old, but man it's really good. I've been looking for something like this since purchasing my Land Cruiser and your video saves the day. Thanks from the UK, all the best!
Thank you for making this video. It's well explained, and easy to follow. I appreciate so much your desire to help others like me, and share valuable information. Guiding us with details, and a great idea.
Great DIY project there, and really well-described along the way. Two points that I found especially useful: 1) how you've framed these out to avoid having a gigantic block of solid wood; and 2) that you made them modular, which not only gives more room once the vehicle is raised, but also would make it just a bit easier to store and move around. Garage space is at a premium for many folks like me! I don't think I have a way to make some of these cuts cleanly with what I have on hand, but I'll definitely be referring to this for ideas when I do get around to making a set. Thanks!
I made some wheel cribs for my Suburban - problem getting the truck up high enough to get them under the wheels - not looking to spend a couple hundred buck for a large floor jack for occasional work. going to rework my cribs into this style of ramp - just need the 2x12s - thanks for the video and idea!!!
Just finished building a set of ramps, they came out great, thanks for the tutorial. I made a few changes, went with standing 2x4’s for the ramp, I also added a steel sleeve for the bolt, I wish I could add pictures but TH-cam doesn’t have this option, thanks again
Great ramps. I like that the ramp part can be removed from the stand once the car's up there, so I have better access sapce from teh sides of the vehicle.
I really like the overall design; very well thought out, and very well explained. I will be building 'full car' ramps based on this modular design. Instead of two (2) lift sections, I will need four (4) to accommodate four wheels. Four, plus an additional two (2) 'span bridges', which can be connected using the same lag bolt mechanism as with the ramps. The span bridge length will be determined by the car's wheel-to-wheel length, which may accommodate most passenger cars. Once the car is in place, the span bridges may be taken out for additional access from the undersides (much like wheel cribs). They can then be put back in place to drive car back down. For those of us with modest table saws, the trick at 9:45 of the video is to make two or more cut passes, starting with a greater fence measurement setting, and then adjusting it closer to the desired final measurement. Multiple cut passes, but easier on (a smaller) table saw and blade.
*Great idea. I have a metal set but lower cars require a longer ramp to avoid contact with the front number. I think ill try to make a set with a longer ramp but with a decent lift. Great job.* Dexterous X
Yeah, nicely designed and proportioned. I build box cribbing to support vehicles and walls out of 2x4's cut 11-1/2 inches long, glued and screwed in doubled stacks so I can increase height 3" per cribbing layer. Since I have a mess of four-foot 2x12 scraps I salvaged from my local lumber yard, I'm going to adapt your design to these materials. I really like your two-piece design.
Hi Jim, thank you for the video. I had been mulling over a design to build ramps for my lawn tractor. These are pretty cool. I only need them for the tractor and not a car so I might make them a bit smaller however your design concepts have really helped. I am on the way to the garage now.....if I find anything I feel will assist others as I build mine I will definitely come back and post! Keep up the great work.
For my X300 lawn tractor, all I do is put a piece of cardboard under the bed then remove the belt, front 2 pins and it basically sits on the floor. Pull it out and you have full access to everything. I'd never put it on a ramp for sharpening the blades.
Nice video. I’m gonna make myself a pair in the near future. Being a professional carpenter I appreciate and get your using the 6-1/2” boards to create equal spaces. DETAILS! Good job. And thanks for the cut list 👍🏻
This is great. I am going to modify the length of the ramps to accommodate my low car but other then that these are the best I've seen. One thing that I will change is on the bottom 2x4 cross piece I will cut an angle on the 2x4 to make it a French cleat to accommodate hanging these on the wall. Since there will be extra 2x8's, I would probably make that French cleat out of a 2x8 to maintain the strength of the cross piece. Just a thought.
Planning to make very similar ramps for myself, with one change. Instead of 2x6s creating the ramp support area, I'm going to use vertical 2x4s. The funky 15° rip becomes an easy 75° angled crosscut.
This sounds like what I need to do. Did you use the 2x4s for the whole ramp, and cut the angle at the bottom (and maybe top also) accordingly, or were the vertical 2x4s just at the main platform area and the angles cut for the ramp to sit on. I can't quite envision it and it would be great if you can elaborate :) ... if you altered the platform area with standing 2x4s I'm thinking you had to change the design of it, but maybe I'm just not clear on what you did. Thanks!
@@emp1acur I wish I could post a picture. I tried posting a link to a picture and it's not showing up. But basically, I put vertical 2x4s with a 10° cut at the top under the ramp portion.
@@sjohnson2461 Wow thanks for replying quickly - appreciate it. OK, I think I understand that you attached the 2x4's (maybe 6 or so) with the top 10 degree cut so they were protruding out the 3.5 inch width under the ramp? if so, did you use really long screws to fasten to the platform?
Look very well built. If I make these, I might make the base part longer, so that I can remove the ramp section after my truck is on the cribbing part.
Awesome build. Amazing detail. The only thing I would add is a removable piece that you could put behind the wheel to keep the vehicle from rolling backward, similar to what you have in front. Possibly angle iron, with studs welded on that match holes in the platform.
@@butchkleven5876 That's a good thought. I like the utility. The problem I see with that approach is the ramp itself isn't a great chock, as it could roll up the ramp allowing the car to fall. Also you might want to jack up the other end of the vehicle leaving no chock at all.
This is one of the nicest designs for a wood car ramp on the internet. One question, why use 3" screws and not 2 1/2" or 2 3/4"? Won't the 3" screws go right to the edge when putting 2 2x4s together, or even stick out a little bit from the other end if you sink in the screw little bit?
hello DIY I really liked your idea and it looks very good not to take up so much space in the garage, I hope to see more of your videos, good luck a greeting from Sweden
Great video. Others here may have already made this suggestion but to cut the various angles a bit safer than using just your fence on the table saw is to make a table saw jig to hold your material. The idea here is to secure the material in such a way as to avoid using your hands to push the material through your blade. It should even allow your to cut a heavy board such as the 2x12 board.
Jim awesome ramps, best I've seen. No doubt better than plastic or metal. One of your viewers mentioned to add a removable piece to block the tires on the ramp. Maybe some skate board tape for trackion. I will need 3 for my Can-Am Spyder RTS, but may end up making 4. Awesome build, thanks. GDoc
Great plans..Going to add 3" in height for more room under car to work on transmission. Yours is 7-1/2 mine will be 10-1/2 high...My Suburu doesn't have much clearance from bottom of tire under front bumper (frame is close to ground) so will also make ramps a lot longer to compensate for added height and make a more gradual slope. Just have to figure length of ramps and angles. Still going to use jacks after car is on ramps just in case cause I got a gravel driveway....Great Video and construction details!
Did you make this? I was just going to use the 2x4 and flip it so it should increase the height on each level Probably adding another cross section for increased strength. But it would get you the height without doing another layer? I want a higher ramp for mower access to blades. Like this concept and design.
@@justinbocchino Yep, I added one complete layer and made the ramps about twice as long. If I understand you and you put the 2x4 on their sides it would get you the height (1-1/2 " flat vs 3-1/2" on side) but might compromise the lateral strength force or stability when driving on but who knows? It might work for mowers. Also attached some thin perforated non slip plates on each ramp so front wheel tires don't slip when backing or driving on. Jim has a great design and build.
I wish you could share a picture. I think jim's setup and instructions are excellent. Just looking to tweak it a bit. Being modular is brilliant. My purpose is homeowner with a toro mower with scrap wood :)
Thanks for the video and the detailed measurements and instructions. In my country, they actually are cutting the wood to the actual size, so I am getting actual 12" wide and 2 inch thick. So I have to make some recalculations based on using 4 levels of 2inch thick wood. I back calculated using your lengths and then went forward to get the corresponding figures for the 2inch thickness.. but I got some differences when I back calculated compared to yours. I wanted to ask about the length of the 2x4s in the ramp...you had listed they should be 23 1/4 inch but in the paper drawing I think you had 23 5/8? In the video (picture insert at 13:17), it looks like you line up the 2x4 top with the edge of the top board 15deg cut. When I worked the horizontal length of the cut, I get 5.6 (=1.5/(tan15) ), so the 2x4 should be 22 3/8. If I use the correct angle of 15.5 deg...I get the length of the 2x4 should be 22 5/8. Yeah, I know I could just cut off the excess wood at the back and not worry about the length. I just wanted confirm that I was doing the calculations correctly because it looks like i have missed something. Thanks.
Hope your ramps turn out nice. You are right I have 23 5/8 on the drawing. all the measurements are not super important just so you can drive on them when you are done. Wish I could see a picture when you get them done. Sorry if I did not exactly answer your question.
Love this design! And the provided specs and tips! You put quite a bit of effort into this and it's very well presented. Thanks Brother. Got yourself a subb. 👍
I have the same Delta table saw. I will be building a set of these ramps for my VW Beetle.I have a miter saw and bandsaw. I think the bandsaw will safer for the 2X4's. You could use 2X4's for the long ramp just turn them 90 degrees.
Great ramp design! For myself I'm thinking about swapping out the 2x12s out for 2x10s. Of course I would also leave out the ramp bottom middle 2x4 that you said may not even really be needed as I won't use this for a half ton truck. All the angles will remain the same and some 2x4s will be getting shorter. Thanks for posting!
@@DIYJIM update: after gathering my scraps and rethinking it I decided to go with the 2x12 like you did after all. Cost me $37 for 8ft treated board because it was all that was available, $8 handles and a $18 hand saw. But they look great and sturdy! 👍🏽
Your idea is the best. The Ability to take the ramp out of the way👌 I Just need to work out how im gna cut those angles without those tools lol handsaw but dam could be hard to cut it accurate
I can drive my Tundra up on two 2x6 in front of each tire and it gives me plenty room to slide under. Maybe you could just do that it would be a lot easier.
Add one more wheel stop to the back side to act as wheel chocks after removing the ramp. You just need to make two more pins from bolts so that it's removable but still use wheel chocks on the rear wheels, of course.
Here are some links to some of the things i talked about in my video. Please leave a comment and thumbs up, it HELPS YOU TUBE PROMOTE MY VIDEO.
Hope you liked my video
dry lube teflon spray amzn.to/2Vojnp7
WD-40 dry lube teflon spray amzn.to/3elyYhM
Supplies
(5) 2x4 8ft
(1) 2x8 8ft
(1) 2x12 8ft
3" exterior wood screws
(2) handles
(4) 4" bolts
Ramp
(2) 2x12 28in
(6) 2x4 23 1/4in
Base
(10) 2x4 11 1/2in
(4) 2x4 20in
(4) 2x4 23in
(4) 2x8 11 1/2in ripped to 6 1/2in wide
(2) 2x12 20in
** Support my channel by leaving a Dollar or two in my tip jar Thank you.
www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_donations&business=2MTJWRFFTHLU4¤cy_code=USD&source=url
Thank you very much for watching and God bless
*Full transparency. I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
You can support my page by just clicking on one of the links above, thank you for your support.
This is the best set I've seen yet. I think I'll give it a try, but all I have is a skill saw and a 10" miter saw.
Hope they turn out great. Thanks for watching
Hello. I have seen a lot of ramps made of wood, but yours is the best of all. Light and solid!
Thanks I seen another TH-cam channel make them. So I can not take full credit. Thanks for watching
The first set of ramps I have seen that make sense (seriously). Strong, lighter in weight, and easier t store. I will be making these ramps for sure - though I may alter the design slightly. Thanks for putting this video out there for us all to get ideas from.
Welcome thanks for watching
You built this project for durability, like a tank! Well done Jim!
Thanks
This is a great idea. I searched out a bunch of designs and this takes the cake.
Thanks I learned it by another TH-camr
This has to be the 12th Dyi Ramp vid i have watched right now, but by far the nicest, best thought out one!
The idea with the grinded down bolts to having a removable, yet secured ramp is pretty great!
I did not come up with the plan I just made the video. Thank you for watching
As a youngster (yes, they had cars!) I had a set of ramps comprising essentially of 6 similar ramps.
Put 2 down and drive forward up.
Put 2 the same behind the rear wheels, then 2 similar, but turned over and locked into the slope on the front ramps. This allowed you drive back, with the rear wheels rising while the front ones stayed on the same elevated level.
This gave you the front and rear off the ground making it a doddle to work on.
Sounds like a awesome setup, thanks for watching
That's an interesting idea. That would be really handy for me since I have several cars that need the trans fluid checked from below with the vehicle sitting level.
Just watched your John Deere blade removal and enjoyed it. Subscribed because you are a great communicator and give instructions slowly. Keep up the great videos and thanks for the help.
Thanks for the sub!
You keep being you! Don't change a thing, this is an awesome teaching moment!!
Thank you, I will
Just finished making these. They are excellent!
I ended up using my Sawzall then hand planer for the base 15 degree cut and the ramp 2x12 angled cuts. I attached ramp 2x4s first so I had a good guide for the blade. The other angle cuts I did on my sliding compound mitre saw.
I referred back to your video numerous times. Your presentation style is absolutely excellent. It is like you are calmly explaining to friends that are there for the evening. Unscripted, genuine, honest, detailed, clear, and interesting. Measuring on the fly and offering so many tips and options. Thank you!
Thank you for the kind words, that’s exactly how I like to present my videos. Glad my video helped you
I know this video is 4 years old, but man it's really good.
I've been looking for something like this since purchasing my Land Cruiser and your video saves the day.
Thanks from the UK, all the best!
Glad you liked my video. Thanks for watching.
great job guy!
Thanks for watching
Congratulations on this highly appreciated masterpiece and its explanations. Thumbs Up👏👏👏
glad you like thanks for watching
Great way to build ramps They will work great to lift my tractor off the floor to do my maintenance. Thanks for your help.
Welcome thanks for leaving a comment
Thank you for making this video. It's well explained, and easy to follow.
I appreciate so much your desire to help others like me, and share valuable information. Guiding us with details, and a great idea.
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching
Thank you for sharing, Jim. God bless you too and your family.
Thank you thanks for watching
Great DIY project there, and really well-described along the way. Two points that I found especially useful: 1) how you've framed these out to avoid having a gigantic block of solid wood; and 2) that you made them modular, which not only gives more room once the vehicle is raised, but also would make it just a bit easier to store and move around. Garage space is at a premium for many folks like me!
I don't think I have a way to make some of these cuts cleanly with what I have on hand, but I'll definitely be referring to this for ideas when I do get around to making a set. Thanks!
Thank you for the nice comment hope you have a great summer
I made some wheel cribs for my Suburban - problem getting the truck up high enough to get them under the wheels - not looking to spend a couple hundred buck for a large floor jack for occasional work. going to rework my cribs into this style of ramp - just need the 2x12s - thanks for the video and idea!!!
Welcome thanks for watching
Just finished building a set of ramps, they came out great, thanks for the tutorial.
I made a few changes, went with standing 2x4’s for the ramp, I also added a steel sleeve for the bolt, I wish I could add pictures but TH-cam doesn’t have this option, thanks again
do some channel have a picture option if so i'm going to have to look into that. Glad my tutorial helped you
Great ramps. I like that the ramp part can be removed from the stand once the car's up there, so I have better access sapce from teh sides of the vehicle.
Thank you
Fantastic !!!!! I'm making some for when I need to go all the way under the van to clean out my A/C drain plug!!!!!!
Glad you like
I really like the overall design; very well thought out, and very well explained.
I will be building 'full car' ramps based on this modular design. Instead of two (2) lift sections, I will need four (4) to accommodate four wheels. Four, plus an additional two (2) 'span bridges', which can be connected using the same lag bolt mechanism as with the ramps. The span bridge length will be determined by the car's wheel-to-wheel length, which may accommodate most passenger cars. Once the car is in place, the span bridges may be taken out for additional access from the undersides (much like wheel cribs). They can then be put back in place to drive car back down.
For those of us with modest table saws, the trick at 9:45 of the video is to make two or more cut passes, starting with a greater fence measurement setting, and then adjusting it closer to the desired final measurement. Multiple cut passes, but easier on (a smaller) table saw and blade.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the tip.
*Great idea. I have a metal set but lower cars require a longer ramp to avoid contact with the front number. I think ill try to make a set with a longer ramp but with a decent lift. Great job.* Dexterous X
Hope they turn out good. Thanks for watching
Great job
Thanks
excellent job describing the whole procedure from beginning to end!
Thanks
Thanks Jim for your skillful teaching, appreciate your work.
Your welcome glad you like my video
There are many videos on this topic but I like your concept of two pieces. Well done & thanx. I used scrap reinforcing plywood like a window lintel.
thanks for watching
Yeah, nicely designed and proportioned. I build box cribbing to support vehicles and walls out of 2x4's cut 11-1/2 inches long, glued and screwed in doubled stacks so I can increase height 3" per cribbing layer. Since I have a mess of four-foot 2x12 scraps I salvaged from my local lumber yard, I'm going to adapt your design to these materials. I really like your two-piece design.
Awesome hope they turn out great
Great job on the ramps and the instructions Jim!
Thanks for sharing,
DC
Thanks for watching! glad you like
Great design, it would make a great day project to create a set of 4 Plus to use up some of my spare old lumber.
that's why I built them I could use some scrap lumber to build most of the ramps. Thanks for watching
God bless JIM, Thanks for the video
Thank you very much
Hi Jim, thank you for the video. I had been mulling over a design to build ramps for my lawn tractor. These are pretty cool. I only need them for the tractor and not a car so I might make them a bit smaller however your design concepts have really helped. I am on the way to the garage now.....if I find anything I feel will assist others as I build mine I will definitely come back and post! Keep up the great work.
Hope your ramps come out awesome. Thanks for watching
For my X300 lawn tractor, all I do is put a piece of cardboard under the bed then remove the belt, front 2 pins and it basically sits on the floor. Pull it out and you have full access to everything. I'd never put it on a ramp for sharpening the blades.
Great tips for a auto or lawn tractor servicing platform
Thanks 👍
Yes love this. My husband was disabled so I had to do most of the maintenance on our mower. I could take the deck on and off in my sleep. Ty
Fantastic video! Making some for my John Deere ASAP! Just an “assumption” but thank you for your service sir!
You’re welcome 20 years retired. Thanks for watching
Nice video. I’m gonna make myself a pair in the near future. Being a professional carpenter I appreciate and get your using the 6-1/2” boards to create equal spaces. DETAILS! Good job. And thanks for the cut list 👍🏻
Welcome thanks for watching
Very nice! Part I like is there flat bottoms won’t cut into the ground like my metal ones. Yours are much safer. Metal ones to the dump now.
Agree thanks for watching
Excellent video ...
Thank You DIY JIM
Welcome thanks for watching
Great job Jim. Enjoyed watching the video, can't wait to make a set of my own thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching!
This is great. I am going to modify the length of the ramps to accommodate my low car but other then that these are the best I've seen. One thing that I will change is on the bottom 2x4 cross piece I will cut an angle on the 2x4 to make it a French cleat to accommodate hanging these on the wall. Since there will be extra 2x8's, I would probably make that French cleat out of a 2x8 to maintain the strength of the cross piece. Just a thought.
Thank you for your DIY videos.
You are so welcome! thank you for watching them.
@DIYJIM after watching how to level my mower deck. I went out leveled it, cut the lawn, and it has never looked better. Thanks.
Planning to make very similar ramps for myself, with one change. Instead of 2x6s creating the ramp support area, I'm going to use vertical 2x4s. The funky 15° rip becomes an easy 75° angled crosscut.
That is a good idea. Thanks for watching
This sounds like what I need to do. Did you use the 2x4s for the whole ramp, and cut the angle at the bottom (and maybe top also) accordingly, or were the vertical 2x4s just at the main platform area and the angles cut for the ramp to sit on. I can't quite envision it and it would be great if you can elaborate :) ... if you altered the platform area with standing 2x4s I'm thinking you had to change the design of it, but maybe I'm just not clear on what you did. Thanks!
@@emp1acur I wish I could post a picture. I tried posting a link to a picture and it's not showing up. But basically, I put vertical 2x4s with a 10° cut at the top under the ramp portion.
@@sjohnson2461 Wow thanks for replying quickly - appreciate it. OK, I think I understand that you attached the 2x4's (maybe 6 or so) with the top 10 degree cut so they were protruding out the 3.5 inch width under the ramp? if so, did you use really long screws to fasten to the platform?
Nice strong assembly
Thanks
Look very well built. If I make these, I might make the base part longer, so that I can remove the ramp section after my truck is on the cribbing part.
Thanks for watching
Thank you for the effort and sharing. 👍
Sure thing
Sweet !! Best ones I've seen - thx.
Thanks for watching
Awesome build. Amazing detail. The only thing I would add is a removable piece that you could put behind the wheel to keep the vehicle from rolling backward, similar to what you have in front. Possibly angle iron, with studs welded on that match holes in the platform.
Sounds like a good idea thanks for watching
Could you lift the removable ramp off and use it as a chock behind the wheels?
@@butchkleven5876 That's a good thought. I like the utility. The problem I see with that approach is the ramp itself isn't a great chock, as it could roll up the ramp allowing the car to fall. Also you might want to jack up the other end of the vehicle leaving no chock at all.
Great video. Thanks for shearing.
You bet, thanks for watching
I’m making 4of these so I can raise my vehicles even up on ramps and I like the idea of removing angled ramp piece for more clearance.
thanks for watching hope they turn out great
I've made these before but they are too heavy. I will follow you guidance to make the multipart ramps. Thanks.
Thanks again for watching my videos hope you have a good summer Mark
This is one of the nicest designs for a wood car ramp on the internet.
One question, why use 3" screws and not 2 1/2" or 2 3/4"? Won't the 3" screws go right to the edge when putting 2 2x4s together, or even stick out a little bit from the other end if you sink in the screw little bit?
Thanks for watching, not sure why I use 3 inch screws I built them over a year ago.
Maybe it was all I had.
hello DIY I really liked your idea and it looks very good not to take up so much space in the garage, I hope to see more of your videos, good luck a greeting from Sweden
Thank you very much for watching
Great idea I made it yesterday changed a few things, I used 4X4 because everything was left over from a deck job
Awesome glad I could help
Thanks for this video. I like this car ramp diy the most 😊👍
Thanks for watching
Gonna try building this thanks.
Hope they turn out good
Jim great job thank you very much Joe K
Very welcome, Thanks for the nice comment
that of the fine wood car ramp, and good explanation how to do it 😊
Thanks! 👍 can’t take all the credit I learned it from another TH-camr. Thanks for watching
Great video. Others here may have already made this suggestion but to cut the various angles a bit safer than using just your fence on the table saw is to make a table saw jig to hold your material. The idea here is to secure the material in such a way as to avoid using your hands to push the material through your blade. It should even allow your to cut a heavy board such as the 2x12 board.
Thanks
Great Video. I appreciated your explanations and why you did things like you did.
Thanks for watching
These look amazing
thank you
U really done good I like them
Thanks
Great video is very easy to understand
Thanks for watching
Great diy idea.
Thanks you
thanks for posting
You're welcome, Thanks for leaving me a comment
Great job man
Thank you Fabio
No entiendo nada de inglés pero entendí a la perfección tu explicación, excelente trabajo hermano. Gracias.
Impresionante, me alegro de haber podido ayudar. Espero haber dicho lo correcto
Great build
Thanks
Jim awesome ramps, best I've seen. No doubt better than plastic or metal. One of your viewers mentioned to add a removable piece to block the tires on the ramp. Maybe some skate board tape for trackion. I will need 3 for my Can-Am Spyder RTS, but may end up making 4. Awesome build, thanks. GDoc
Thanks for watching Dj
Great video!
Thank you
Dude that's awesome!!! Thanks!!!
No problem! If You could share the video on Facebook that would be Awesome. If you are on Facebook. Thanks for watching
Nice video, well done. Thanks for sharing. It's well received.
😃
Thanks for watching
Great Job, I am going to build mine tomorrow. Thanks
Hope they turn out great
Awesome video
Thank you 🙏🏾
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video, I had to use a hand saw to get the 15 degree cut..but your video helped alot.
Glad I could help, enjoy your new ramps
Great plans..Going to add 3" in height for more room under car to work on transmission. Yours is 7-1/2 mine will be 10-1/2 high...My Suburu doesn't have much clearance from bottom of tire under front bumper (frame is close to ground) so will also make ramps a lot longer to compensate for added height and make a more gradual slope. Just have to figure length of ramps and angles. Still going to use jacks after car is on ramps just in case cause I got a gravel driveway....Great Video and construction details!
Hope they turn out great thanks for watching
Did you make this? I was just going to use the 2x4 and flip it so it should increase the height on each level Probably adding another cross section for increased strength. But it would get you the height without doing another layer? I want a higher ramp for mower access to blades. Like this concept and design.
@@justinbocchino Yep, I added one complete layer and made the ramps about twice as long. If I understand you and you put the 2x4 on their sides it would get you the height (1-1/2 " flat vs 3-1/2" on side) but might compromise the lateral strength force or stability when driving on but who knows? It might work for mowers. Also attached some thin perforated non slip plates on each ramp so front wheel tires don't slip when backing or driving on. Jim has a great design and build.
I wish you could share a picture. I think jim's setup and instructions are excellent. Just looking to tweak it a bit. Being modular is brilliant. My purpose is homeowner with a toro mower with scrap wood :)
Thanks for the video and the detailed measurements and instructions.
In my country, they actually are cutting the wood to the actual size, so I am getting actual 12" wide and 2 inch thick. So I have to make some recalculations based on using 4 levels of 2inch thick wood.
I back calculated using your lengths and then went forward to get the corresponding figures for the 2inch thickness.. but I got some differences when I back calculated compared to yours.
I wanted to ask about the length of the 2x4s in the ramp...you had listed they should be 23 1/4 inch but in the paper drawing I think you had 23 5/8? In the video (picture insert at 13:17), it looks like you line up the 2x4 top with the edge of the top board 15deg cut.
When I worked the horizontal length of the cut, I get 5.6 (=1.5/(tan15) ), so the 2x4 should be 22 3/8. If I use the correct angle of 15.5 deg...I get the length of the 2x4 should be 22 5/8.
Yeah, I know I could just cut off the excess wood at the back and not worry about the length. I just wanted confirm that I was doing the calculations correctly because it looks like i have missed something. Thanks.
Hope your ramps turn out nice. You are right I have 23 5/8 on the drawing. all the measurements are not super important just so you can drive on them when you are done. Wish I could see a picture when you get them done. Sorry if I did not exactly answer your question.
Such a cool idea. Great video
thank you very much for the comment cuz
Love this design! And the provided specs and tips! You put quite a bit of effort into this and it's very well presented. Thanks Brother. Got yourself a subb. 👍
Thanks for subscribing
Thanks for the video
Your very welcome
I have the same Delta table saw. I will be building a set of these ramps for my VW Beetle.I have a miter saw and bandsaw. I think the bandsaw will safer for the 2X4's. You could use 2X4's for the long ramp just turn them 90 degrees.
thanks for watching my video. Glad it sound like i helped you with a plan hope they turn out good for ya, have a good summer
Great ramp design! For myself I'm thinking about swapping out the 2x12s out for 2x10s. Of course I would also leave out the ramp bottom middle 2x4 that you said may not even really be needed as I won't use this for a half ton truck. All the angles will remain the same and some 2x4s will be getting shorter. Thanks for posting!
Thanks for watching, hope your ramps turn out awesome
@@DIYJIM update: after gathering my scraps and rethinking it I decided to go with the 2x12 like you did after all. Cost me $37 for 8ft treated board because it was all that was available, $8 handles and a $18 hand saw. But they look great and sturdy! 👍🏽
@@SomeKoolPlace Awesome I wish TH-cam would allow pictures in the comments
Nice job
thank you
That was helpful
Thank you
You're welcome! glad you like it
Your a good guy.
Thank you
Your idea is the best. The Ability to take the ramp out of the way👌 I Just need to work out how im gna cut those angles without those tools lol handsaw but dam could be hard to cut it accurate
Nice tidy organised garage. What do you do for a living?
@@goproexplo9290 I work maintenance in a State prison, and I was in the Military for 20 years. Thanks again for watching
Nice.. gonna give er a go
Hope they turn out Awesome
i like your White Shelf with OIL Supplies
Thank you
Great Job!!! Nice
Thanks
Great Ramps! Looking in my waist scraps for pieces to make! A let you know how the project comes together! Thanks!
Hope your ramps come out great. Thanks for the comment.
Subscribed, great video sir and thank you! Gonna build these for loading my compact Kubota Tractor
Thank you for subscribing hope you enjoy your ramps
Great job, going to make a couple of sets, keep up the good work
Thank you very much for the nice comment
Very smart & useful ramp
Thanks
Beautiful work. thank you!
glad you like, thank you for the nice comment
Could these be built higher, like 12" High?
Anything is possible. Thanks for watching
Nice hat!!
Thanks
Excellent 👍👍
Thank you
You should sell it online. It really work, better than plastic ramp.
Thanks for the comment. They are nice ramps. You can share my video if you like
Great job!
Thanks!
Jim the 15 degree cut - can you do with Sliding Miter 12" saw ? Do not have a Table Saw- I have a 12" Ridgid R4221
You can try that was a hard cut to make. Hope it turns out
@@DIYJIM thanks for reply,need to do oil change on my 2017 Tahoe with 5.3l
I can drive my Tundra up on two 2x6 in front of each tire and it gives me plenty room to slide under. Maybe you could just do that it would be a lot easier.
Great work, thanks.
Thank you
Add one more wheel stop to the back side to act as wheel chocks after removing the ramp. You just need to make two more pins from bolts so that it's removable but still use wheel chocks on the rear wheels, of course.
Thanks for watching