Whenever I made a slight hic-cup on a piece of a jig or tooling for in-house use, it would become a prototype or proof of concept piece, if it worked it was fine. If you ever meet an engineer who claims never to have made a mistake, they are speaking with forked tongue. Good job Matty, stay safe and well, regards to all 👍
Nice build! Taper ... it's the only thing I might have done different ... 8° (16 included) would have been my choice .. that's the standard for er32 collets and some engineer WAY smarter than me figured out it works best for such applications. Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Hi Matty, I haven't looked at other comments so someone else might have made the same suggestions. On getting the tapered fingers to spread easier, make the taper only about 10 mm long (deep) and then bore it out behind. You did some but maybe not enough. Also cut another four slots, total eight. On the "drawbar" part, cut the taper only for about 5 mm and cut clearance behind. That way the "fingers won't be so stiff and the tapers are only working against one another over a maximum of 5 mm. At the moment you're working them over about 15 mm though you did undercut them behind a bit but still lots of drag. Otherwise a pretty good idea. Might just try one for my ER 25 ones. As big as I go at present. Already have a couple for the 5 C collets. Thanks for the video, stuffups and all. Regards from "upover" in Canada's banana belt.🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊️🇦🇺🐨💩💥🏁👍
Gday, I’ll definitely be putting more slot in the taper which will improve it quite a bit, I like to show the screw ups in the videos, it’s what happens here, appreciate you watching, cheers
Hi Matty, I think it turned out Great. You sure do some nice work, and you make it look so easy. I always enjoy watching you do Machine work. Thanks for the Videos and Ideas.😁👍👍
@@MattysWorkshop Mate, its a useful skill to have. You seem to do it because you enjoy it, rather than doing it for the sake of it👍 One of the reasons I enjoy your channel.👌
Hey Matty. Flash job mate. The internal female expanding bit, I cut a groove also.. but on the outside, end of the slots near the shoulder., also cut 3 slots., ie 6 segments..! You'd be surprised how much movement the collet makes,.. even Hand Tightened. ... and, for the male expandy bit, I used a 12mm bolt, and booker rod/all thread for "The Adjustable Stop." Amazing watching you do and explain it, how much work there is in it.
Great job Matty. Looks a treat. Put 8 slots in the taper and it will nip up much easier. The 1/4 of a circle does not like to move whereas an 1/8 will. Printers are a good source of all kind of parts. ATB regards from the UK
Gday, I’m definitely going to cut more slots in the taper, I did screw up there mate, the rods that come out of printers is pretty handy material, thanks for watching, cheers
Hi matty hope your treatment is going well ,you’re looking good . Looks like a good project as I have a set of those collet blocks I bought for my retirement projects if I ever get time between doctors appointments and favours for friends,lol all the best John😎🐈⬛🇦🇺
My thoughts exactly, 8 or even 16 segments would work. There shouldn't be much force on it. The collet holds the work in place. Pretty easy to make a couple more cuts.
Nice job Matty! Yes I thought you were being very hopeful at single pointing the 8mm thread that long, but you did it mate. I though to myself "You jammy bastard," when it threaded on with no drama lol it clearly was a quality piece of steel with the right amount of toughness to resist the cutting forces of the tool. All in all mate it turned out very well. You are a much better machinist than you give yourself credit for. I think I might give one of those a whirl, the only thing I think I would do differently is to reduce the angle to around 6 degrees included instead of 10. It should make the deflection a bit easier and enable it to be done by hand. I will also do 45 degree slots to double the "petals" that expand. That should make it easier to expand it by hand. I hope you are feeling better after your treatment Matty and things are going well for you. Cheers from the UK. Sam
Gday Sam, thanks for your kind words, I have to put more slots in and that should fix that issue, the rod machined really nicely and bugger all deflection, appreciate you watching, cheers
As I can see, you use printer parts too. They are very nice pieces of steel. Nice little build, Matty. And I share the same idea that I read in the comments. Double the number os slots in the taper and it will work just fine.
Gday Rustinox, ill definitely be putting in more slots, that was a screw up there but easily fixed, the rods out of printers are pretty good material, thanks for watching, cheers
Estimado Matty, vivo del otro lado del mundo y veo todos sus trabajos, usted es admirable como profecional y como persona. Aquí en Argentina 🇦🇷 hay muy pocas personas que reunan esas cualidades al mismo tiempo. Le envío un afectuoso saludo❤👍
Matty, I was going to recommend that you cut more slots in the female taper, but I see that several others have already done so. If your coffee-colored coolant smells bad, look into getting an anti-bacterial additive for your coolant to kill the oil-eating bacteria. If you've got oil floating on top of your coolant in the sump, maybe get an oil skimmer to minimize the amount of "food" you're providing to the bugs. You might also consider adding a filter to your coolant system. If your sump is full of crud, you'll want to clean it out before adding new coolant to it so that you don't immediately contaminate the new coolant.
Hi Matty, a great idea! I would suggest additional relief cuts every 45 degrees to ease the expansion of the taper. This will also work as a lathe spindle stop.
Hello Matty. That's a brilliant piece of kit. Plus designing and machining all the fiddly bits on the fly...that's impressive. Well done, mate. Cheers.
Nice job Matty 👍 A man after my own heart - don't throw anything away without first stripping it down and saving anything that may be useful (albeit in 18 months 😁). All the best, Paul
My old man (RIP) woulda said that piece of rod has been laying around on your bench since Adam wore short pants and played full back for Jerusalem. 😜😂😂 Yet another great build Matty, & a pleasure to watch. Keep up the good work. 👍👍👍🇦🇺
my er40 collet blocks came threaded both ends for collet nuts so I use a 2nd nut with a 6mm collet holding a rod as my depth stop. Your impromptu redesigns came out ok. Thanks for sharing! 👍
Hi Matty. Absolutely loving your channel!! I've come here from Steve's recommendation (another awesome TH-camr!). In the few video's that I've seen, I've already learnt a heap of new processes and techniques. Liked and sub'd. Looking forward to the next vid'. Cheers, Pete. 🙂
Nice work Matty, warts and all but why not just thread the ends of the collet blocks and use the same idea for the stop but without all the screwing around with having an expanding taper.
Gday, certainly going to be handy tool to have and I really wasn't sure how long to make the threaded rod, Appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Worked out fine in the end, I would have thought a shorter taper on the inside part would work better, as is you are trying to flex the whole length of the cut-out, all it needs is a small part of the tip to flex out in order to grip and spread, probably 10 - 15mm would be plenty taper on the plug, this will make it easier to tighten by hand too.
Matty, I am having another look at your work. Could you come up here to Central Qld, Tungamull now..😊 I have a million ideas, all the goodies, but have become to Ken Lazy to do the work.😅😅😊
Interesting build. Thanks for the video. It’s good to see someone else besides me over shoots threads sometimes. How about cutting four more slits in the collar, to let it expand with less pressure? I’m now subscribed!
Gday, your not the only one that over shoots, it’s pretty common here mate, definitely be putting in more lots to make it work better, thanks for watching and subscribing, cheers
Nice build Matty. A thought on the taper....what if the male and female sides were a half degree off so they first engage as an interference then spread out to match? I too think there needs to be more cuts to have thinner sections.
Gday, Im going to put more cuts in and hopefully that'll make it work easier, your idea should work well to, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
16:49 Hi Matty This looks like a super little project and will be very useful. Could you possibly give the basic details of your main lathe and milling machine as I am planning to upgrade very shortly as the small lathe I have is too small now. Thanks for the great content and keep healthy. Greg Tutin Launceston TAS
Gday Greg, my lathe is a Hare and Forbes AL960b, it's the smallest Taiwanese lathe they sell, its done everything ive asked from it but im starting to think its possibly time to go a bit bigger when funds are available, The mill I have is a Cincinnati 2L, its a horizontal mill with a vertical universal head, its a great solid mill but not a lot of Z height, hopefully ill be upgrading this soonish with a bit of luck, Hope this helps mate and appreciate you watching ,Cheers
The AL1000D is 3 phase, Taiwanese & has a foot brake that you wanted Matty. They are around the $12.6k new from Hairy Forbes. Spindle diameter is only 40mm tho. They are a 14”x40” swing & between centres. Been selling them the last ~20 years or so. Theres a 2008 built one in reasonable nick near me for sale used in WA asking $8.5k that has 3 chucks and other tooling with it. Old German guy bought it when he was aged 80 & just turned 96 & can’t use it any longer so it’s available. Bit dear to ship it West to East or worse Tassy tho.
Another well-made project Matty. 👍Tis a good idea that one, but not being able to single point on my little lathe could make it a challenge, I'm wondering if maybe I could make one using a 1" or 25mm bolt 🤔
Hi Matty. Do you think that reducing the length of the external taper to something like 5 or 6mm so that you are only trying to deflect the tips of the slotted section would make it more sensitive.
A fun little problem solver there. As mentioned with a couple more slots cut in it it should grab way easier. It sounded like it was really coming down on your roof. Are you in your rainy season there?
Gday Tom, I’ll definitely be putting more slots in the taper, the noise was the kettle boiling, it’s a noisy bloody thing, thanks for watching mate, cheers
didn't watch it all, sorry if I missed something but how can you hold something at the tip of an ER?? ER collets need a minimum engagement length, or else they collapse
Nice job mate, never going to look perfect if you are just using what you have lying around the shop. Perfection costs brass and tin usually. Carry on cutting Matty.
Hey Matty great job as usual ! Do you think if you put more slits in your tapered collet it would make it more flexible and in turn make it easier to tighten up? Just a thought. Cheers
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Whenever I made a slight hic-cup on a piece of a jig or tooling for in-house use, it would become a prototype or proof of concept piece, if it worked it was fine. If you ever meet an engineer who claims never to have made a mistake, they are speaking with forked tongue. Good job Matty, stay safe and well, regards to all 👍
Gday, it does work but with a little modification it’ll be much better, appreciate you watching mate, cheers
Nice build!
Taper ... it's the only thing I might have done different ... 8° (16 included) would have been my choice .. that's the standard for er32 collets and some engineer WAY smarter than me figured out it works best for such applications.
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Gday, I should’ve went with a different taper and I’ll be putting in more slots to, appreciate you watching, cheers
Hi Matty, I haven't looked at other comments so someone else might have made the same suggestions.
On getting the tapered fingers to spread easier, make the taper only about 10 mm long (deep) and then bore it out behind. You did some but maybe not enough. Also cut another four slots, total eight.
On the "drawbar" part, cut the taper only for about 5 mm and cut clearance behind. That way the "fingers won't be so stiff and the tapers are only working against one another over a maximum of 5 mm. At the moment you're working them over about 15 mm though you did undercut them behind a bit but still lots of drag. Otherwise a pretty good idea. Might just try one for my ER 25 ones. As big as I go at present. Already have a couple for the 5 C collets.
Thanks for the video, stuffups and all. Regards from "upover" in Canada's banana belt.🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊️🇦🇺🐨💩💥🏁👍
Gday, I’ll definitely be putting more slot in the taper which will improve it quite a bit, I like to show the screw ups in the videos, it’s what happens here, appreciate you watching, cheers
Hi Matty, I think it turned out Great. You sure do some nice work, and you make it look so easy. I always enjoy watching you do Machine work. Thanks for the Videos and Ideas.😁👍👍
Thanks mate, appreciate you watching, cheers
Only Matty's Workshop would make his own threaded rod! Good result overall mate. All the best. Cheers
Gday, always been a bit different mate🤣🤣🤣, appreciate you watching, catch up with you soon, cheers
@@MattysWorkshop Mate, its a useful skill to have. You seem to do it because you enjoy it, rather than doing it for the sake of it👍 One of the reasons I enjoy your channel.👌
For a self taught turner you ought to pat yourself on the back for the jobs you do, superb work Matty.
Thanks for your kind words mate, Cheers
G'day Matty. Excellent build, & lots of food for thought. Looks Professional & it works 😊
Keep up the good works
Thanks very much Ted, appreciate you watching, cheers
Hey Matty. Flash job mate. The internal female expanding bit, I cut a groove also.. but on the outside, end of the slots near the shoulder., also cut 3 slots., ie 6 segments..! You'd be surprised how much movement the collet makes,.. even Hand Tightened. ... and, for the male expandy bit, I used a 12mm bolt, and booker rod/all thread for "The Adjustable Stop." Amazing watching you do and explain it, how much work there is in it.
Gday Mark, thanks for the idea, I did screw up there and will be putting more slots in the taper, appreciate you watching mate, cheers
Great job Matty. Looks a treat. Put 8 slots in the taper and it will nip up much easier. The 1/4 of a circle does not like to move whereas an 1/8 will. Printers are a good source of all kind of parts. ATB regards from the UK
Gday, I’m definitely going to cut more slots in the taper, I did screw up there mate, the rods that come out of printers is pretty handy material, thanks for watching, cheers
Can't wait to see you use your new tool. . Looks perfect. . Good to hear Mrs. Matty on the video . . fantastic.
Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed, cheers
Hi matty hope your treatment is going well ,you’re looking good .
Looks like a good project as I have a set of those collet blocks
I bought for my retirement projects if I ever get time between doctors appointments and favours for friends,lol all the best John😎🐈⬛🇦🇺
I can see that being a very useful tool Matty , great build ! Enjoyed ..👍👍
It should be a handy tool to have over time mate, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Very nice work Matty. Sometimes you just have to jump in and make it up as you go along. Keep well mate. Cheers Nobby
Gday Nobby, that’s exactly what happened mate, appreciate you watching, cheers
You need more slots in it. Each piece goes 1/4 of the way around so they don't want to flex
Thats exactly what it needs 100%, thanks for watching, Cheers
My thoughts exactly, 8 or even 16 segments would work. There shouldn't be much force on it. The collet holds the work in place. Pretty easy to make a couple more cuts.
Well done Matty. You seem to have this seat of the pants engineering thing down to a science.
Nice job Matty! Yes I thought you were being very hopeful at single pointing the 8mm thread that long, but you did it mate. I though to myself "You jammy bastard," when it threaded on with no drama lol it clearly was a quality piece of steel with the right amount of toughness to resist the cutting forces of the tool. All in all mate it turned out very well. You are a much better machinist than you give yourself credit for. I think I might give one of those a whirl, the only thing I think I would do differently is to reduce the angle to around 6 degrees included instead of 10. It should make the deflection a bit easier and enable it to be done by hand. I will also do 45 degree slots to double the "petals" that expand. That should make it easier to expand it by hand. I hope you are feeling better after your treatment Matty and things are going well for you. Cheers from the UK. Sam
Gday Sam, thanks for your kind words, I have to put more slots in and that should fix that issue, the rod machined really nicely and bugger all deflection, appreciate you watching, cheers
As I can see, you use printer parts too. They are very nice pieces of steel.
Nice little build, Matty. And I share the same idea that I read in the comments. Double the number os slots in the taper and it will work just fine.
Gday Rustinox, ill definitely be putting in more slots, that was a screw up there but easily fixed, the rods out of printers are pretty good material, thanks for watching, cheers
Excellent job Matty, the fly cutter saved the day,lol...great video, keep'um coming..
Gday, I fly cutter never fails mate, probably the best tool I own, thanks for watching, cheers
Estimado Matty, vivo del otro lado del mundo y veo todos sus trabajos, usted es admirable como profecional y como persona.
Aquí en Argentina 🇦🇷 hay muy pocas personas que reunan esas cualidades al mismo tiempo.
Le envío un afectuoso saludo❤👍
Gday, truly appreciate your kind words and appreciate you watching and commenting mate, cheers
Matty, I was going to recommend that you cut more slots in the female taper, but I see that several others have already done so. If your coffee-colored coolant smells bad, look into getting an anti-bacterial additive for your coolant to kill the oil-eating bacteria. If you've got oil floating on top of your coolant in the sump, maybe get an oil skimmer to minimize the amount of "food" you're providing to the bugs. You might also consider adding a filter to your coolant system. If your sump is full of crud, you'll want to clean it out before adding new coolant to it so that you don't immediately contaminate the new coolant.
Gday, the coolant doesn’t smell, I do have a skimmer but I’ve been lazy, it’s over due to be changed that’s for sure, thanks for watching, cheers
Hi Matty, a great idea! I would suggest additional relief cuts every 45 degrees to ease the expansion of the taper. This will also work as a lathe spindle stop.
Gday, I’ll be putting more slots in for sure mate, thanks for watching, cheers
Gday Matty cool idea lots of fun little operations I'll look at doing something similar for my collet blocks
Gday, it was a fun little project that was made from scrap, definitely worth making one mate, thanks for watching, cheers
Well made, Matty. Very useful bit of kit.....Tony
Thanks very much Tony, cheers
Hello Matty. That's a brilliant piece of kit. Plus designing and machining all the fiddly bits on the fly...that's impressive. Well done, mate. Cheers.
Gday, making everything on the run keeps it interesting, appreciate you watching, cheers
Nice job Matty👍🏴
Thanks very much Jon, appreciate you watching, cheers
Nice job Matty 👍
A man after my own heart - don't throw anything away without first stripping it down and saving anything that may be useful (albeit in 18 months 😁).
All the best,
Paul
Gday, Not much gets thrown away thats still in one piece here, it amazing what you find sometimes, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Hi Matty 👍👍👍👍👍👍Great job as usual
Exactly right sometimes the best projects are made up as you go
ATB
Kev
Gday Kev, It seems a lot of my projects are made up as I go, Appreciate you watching mate, Cheers
Great video, Matty! With regards to the "8mm Rod", yet another case of "I'll keep that, it'll come in handy" triumphing! Cheers from the UK!
Gday, I knew I kept the rod for a reason, thanks for watching, cheers
Another awesome video Matty.
Keep up the great work. From kiwi land.
Thanks very much mate, Cheers
Great build Matty. Not seen one of those before. If I used mine enough I might have a go at making one. Thanks for sharing the video.
Steve.
Gday Steve, there not something you’d use everyday but handy when you need to, thanks for watching mate, cheers
Great job Matty. Most of the time when I have an idea for some tool I what to make I make as I go also. Cheers
Gday, making things on the go keeps it interesting mate, Thanks for watching, cheers
My old man (RIP) woulda said that piece of rod has been laying around on your bench since Adam wore short pants and played full back for Jerusalem. 😜😂😂
Yet another great build Matty, & a pleasure to watch.
Keep up the good work. 👍👍👍🇦🇺
Thats about how long i've had that piece of rod laying around for mate, Appreciate you watching and commenting, Cheers
Christ player Half Back...😊
Good work again Matty. Maybe the taper needs more slots? The ER collets have a lot of slots and they tighten up quite easily.
Gday John, Definitely needs more slots, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Good old printers and photocopiers, great source of rods, springs and all sorts of other nick nacks that might be useful at some point.
I agree 100%, some have a lot more then others to, thanks for watching, cheers
That's a good solution! Thanks Matty.
And easy to build mate, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Great Job Matty. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks mate, cheers
my er40 collet blocks came threaded both ends for collet nuts so I use a 2nd nut with a 6mm collet holding a rod as my depth stop.
Your impromptu redesigns came out ok. Thanks for sharing! 👍
Gday, Thats a great idea and would work really well, Thanks for watching, Cheers
@@MattysWorkshop I do have to use 10mm spacers between the vice jaws and the collet block, but for the amount I use a depth stop Im not mad.
Hi Matty. Absolutely loving your channel!! I've come here from Steve's recommendation (another awesome TH-camr!). In the few video's that I've seen, I've already learnt a heap of new processes and techniques. Liked and sub'd. Looking forward to the next vid'. Cheers, Pete. 🙂
Gday Pete, truly appreciate you subscribing mate and glad your enjoying the videos, cheers
Nice work Matty, warts and all but why not just thread the ends of the collet blocks and use the same idea for the stop but without all the screwing around with having an expanding taper.
I'll take 2 Matty! I need them by Monday :P
You are looking good, mate!
I’ll see how I go mate but no promises 😂, appreciate you watching, cheers
Nice design Mattie, it looks like it could be used like a lantern chuck as well. Enjoyed, cheers mate!
Thanks mate, appreciate you watching, cheers
Very good job matty,,thanks for your time
Appreciate you watching and commenting mate, cheers
👍💪✌
Thanks for watching mate, cheers
Great addition to the shop Matty, very useful 👍, nicely done.
Having the rod coming out so far will be handy for caps etc.
Thanks for sharing
Gday, certainly going to be handy tool to have and I really wasn't sure how long to make the threaded rod, Appreciate you watching and commenting mate, Cheers
Very nice job...Thank You...
Thanks very much, cheers
another nice job there simple and easy as you go job thanks for sharing Cheers
Gday, Its good to go back to basics now and then, Appreciate you watching mate, Cheers.
Nice little free build! All the best, Matthew
Gday, With the cost of material now free builds are very welcome, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Nice to see you back in form mate I enjoyed this
Gday, Im still not 100% yet but slowly coming good, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Worked out fine in the end, I would have thought a shorter taper on the inside part would work better, as is you are trying to flex the whole length of the cut-out, all it needs is a small part of the tip to flex out in order to grip and spread, probably 10 - 15mm would be plenty taper on the plug, this will make it easier to tighten by hand too.
Thanks, Appreciate you watching, Cheers
@@MattysWorkshop The Thanks is to you, I appreciate you sharing and giving us something to watch.
Good show!
Thanks very much, Cheers
Hi Mat I would put 8 slots into the female fit but only going half way on the new four cuts
Gday, Im going to have to modify it for sure, Appreciate you watching and commenting, Cheers
Nice job Matty. GDay.
Thanks mate, cheers
Hi Matty, great job. I was wondering if you would be able to make that threaded rod, but it came out right in the end. Regards, Dave
Gday, the thread turned out pretty good mate, thanks for watching, cheers
Well done mate 👍
Thanks mate, cheers
Matty, I am having another look at your work. Could you come up here to Central Qld, Tungamull now..😊 I have a million ideas, all the goodies, but have become to Ken Lazy to do the work.😅😅😊
Gday Mark, probably not a bad idea for a holiday mate, I’ll see how I go, thanks for watching
If you put more slits in say 8 it should tighten up easier, as you are now trying to bend a 1/4 circle.
Gday, I did screw up there and definitely going to put more slots in, thanks for watching, cheers
👍
Interesting build. Thanks for the video. It’s good to see someone else besides me over shoots threads sometimes. How about cutting four more slits in the collar, to let it expand with less pressure? I’m now subscribed!
Gday, your not the only one that over shoots, it’s pretty common here mate, definitely be putting in more lots to make it work better, thanks for watching and subscribing, cheers
Enjoyed..nice build, hmmm got me thinking if I can adapt my 5c threaded stops…add to the list😂😂
Gday Chuck, I’m sure you’ll come up with a solution for your 5c collets mate, thanks for watching, cheers
Nice build Matty. A thought on the taper....what if the male and female sides were a half degree off so they first engage as an interference then spread out to match? I too think there needs to be more cuts to have thinner sections.
Gday, Im going to put more cuts in and hopefully that'll make it work easier, your idea should work well to, Thanks for watching and commenting, Cheers
G'day Matty cool video mate
Thanks very much mate, Cheers
nice build..
Thanhs very much, appreciate you watching, cheers
Nice job mate
Thanks mate, Cheers
16:49 Hi Matty
This looks like a super little project and will be very useful.
Could you possibly give the basic details of your main lathe and milling machine as I am planning to upgrade very shortly as the small lathe I have is too small now.
Thanks for the great content and keep healthy.
Greg Tutin
Launceston TAS
Gday Greg, my lathe is a Hare and Forbes AL960b, it's the smallest Taiwanese lathe they sell, its done everything ive asked from it but im starting to think its possibly time to go a bit bigger when funds are available, The mill I have is a Cincinnati 2L, its a horizontal mill with a vertical universal head, its a great solid mill but not a lot of Z height, hopefully ill be upgrading this soonish with a bit of luck, Hope this helps mate and appreciate you watching ,Cheers
The AL1000D is 3 phase, Taiwanese & has a foot brake that you wanted Matty.
They are around the $12.6k new from Hairy Forbes. Spindle diameter is only 40mm tho.
They are a 14”x40” swing & between centres.
Been selling them the last ~20 years or so.
Theres a 2008 built one in reasonable nick near me for sale used in WA asking $8.5k that has 3 chucks and other tooling with it.
Old German guy bought it when he was aged 80 & just turned 96 & can’t use it any longer so it’s available.
Bit dear to ship it West to East or worse Tassy tho.
Another well-made project Matty. 👍Tis a good idea that one, but not being able to single point on my little lathe could make it a challenge, I'm wondering if maybe I could make one using a 1" or 25mm bolt 🤔
Gday, Id give your idea a go for sure, theres many ways to make it, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
great vid as always
Thanks mate, cheers
Hi Matty. Do you think that reducing the length of the external taper to something like 5 or 6mm so that you are only trying to deflect the tips of the slotted section would make it more sensitive.
Gday, I think putting more slots in will solve a lot of the problems hopefully, appreciate you watching mate, cheers
Thx for the vid.
Appreciate you watching and commenting, cheers
A fun little problem solver there. As mentioned with a couple more slots cut in it it should grab way easier. It sounded like it was really coming down on your roof. Are you in your rainy season there?
Gday Tom, I’ll definitely be putting more slots in the taper, the noise was the kettle boiling, it’s a noisy bloody thing, thanks for watching mate, cheers
Your kettle oh wow. @@MattysWorkshop
didn't watch it all, sorry if I missed something but how can you hold something at the tip of an ER?? ER collets need a minimum engagement length, or else they collapse
Worked out ok in the end. What medication have they got you on Matty? , you don't seem your usual smart self. Sleeping ok ?
Gday, Im still not 100% yet and its only time thats going to fix that, Thanks for watching mate, Cheers
Really neat & simple Matty 👍
Robert
Thanks very much mate, appreciate you watching, Cheers
Nice job mate, never going to look perfect if you are just using what you have lying around the shop. Perfection costs brass and tin usually.
Carry on cutting Matty.
Gday, Material is getting pretty expensive now so working with what's laying around is the best option, Thanks for watching, Cheers
Ģreat work m8
Thanks very much mate, cheers
my coolent looks like that all the time may be a bit more yellow
Gday, I really need to change the coolant pretty badly, thanks for watching, cheers
Hey Matty great job as usual ! Do you think if you put more slits in your tapered collet it would make it more flexible and in turn make it easier to tighten up? Just a thought. Cheers
Gday, definitely be putting more slots in and hopefully that’ll solve the problem mate, thanks for watching, cheers
👍👍🇦🇺🦘
Thanks for watching, Cheers