Thanks, this was exactly what I needed to know. I had seen people WD-40'ing the clip before squeezing both sides to make it easier, but I couldn't find the clip. It's under that housing you removed. You have to use a $13 tool (and find the right one) to remove it at the other end. There are 4 "clips"(?) inside the metal cup that have to be released. I saw someone who made his own with a hose. that he had cut open length wise to get around the left side on the metal pipe before sliding it into the cup. You slide it in between the pipe and cup then push the cup towards the engine so that the clips inside it release, then push the hose or special tool with the cup away from the engine. I really just need to know if the pressure valve inside the tank (old RAV means I can't reach it from under the back seat) is what's causing the hard start. Hard to push the two sides and strong release shows the pressure is high at first, but easier if i wait 10 minutes, confirming that valve (it's not a vacuum-assisted type of pressure regulator on the fuel rail, so I don't need to check that diaphragm)
how did you depressurize the fuel system? There is confusion all over because of how on a 2007 Rav4 base, the Fuel Pump relay in the under hood fuse box 2 is not really there - on relay, no spot for the relay. I recently replaced the fuel filter in the tank, (yes, had to drop the tank), and in doing so, I pulled the 20a fuse marked for EFI Main in that same fuse box location. It's position 20 I believe, the top most 20a fuse closest to driver. I did that, loosened gas cap, and cranked away. It immediately did not start really, so I wonder just how effectively I was depressuring the fuel line. When I removed the tank and disconnected those lines under the car, I did not get hardly any type of spray, so I assumed it was good enough. I was close to empty in the tank, very close. I'm definitely looking at doing how you removed this line. My job is replacing fuel injectors. Thanks!
On my case, I did an engine swap on the Toyota. It sat for a few days so it naturally depressurized itself. Normally you did it right though you could remove the fuel pump relay or the fuse and crank it a little bit with the gas cap off. It’s worked every time for myself that way! Yea these vehicles are a little tricky, which is surprising for Toyota! Normally they’re really easy to work on ha ok yea this is the easiest way to remove that line. You could also remove the two 10 mm bolts on the fuel regulator as well but you risk leaking unless you replace the o-ring on it. Removing it the way I showed on here saves you time though since you can pop it back on when you’re done.
@@tonytorques Just finished the fuel injector job. Thank you so much. I removed that line as you described. I thought this would be a big job, and it only took about an hour and half taking my time. I pulled that 20a fuse, cranked, and when I disconnected that line at that quick connect, hardly any fuel. Saved having to buy more tools. By the way - if you have any advice on a 'too lean' condition, I'd love to hear it. These injectors did make it run a bit better and clear a miss it seems, but I've been fighting a p0171 lean condition code. Fuel trims are a bit high on the positive side, both short term and long term. I have recently replaced MAF, O2 sensors, plugs, fuel pressure regulator and filter, just not the fuel pump. After sitting an hour or so, it's hard starting. However, if you put pedal to floor and open that throttle, it starts up, so definitely flooded a bit from what I assume is ECU pumping more fuel in to account for the lean condition.
@@mikeward2922 No problem! Glad to help and hear that the job you did went well. Thanks for subscribing! Based on what you’re saying It’s possible if your fuel pressure is off, maybe try doing a fuel pressure test first before you buy the pump. You can rent the tool at orielys or Autozone. Also does your vehicle have trouble idling properly? Or is the rpms high on it/inconsistent?
@@tonytorques Just did a fuel pressure test. 31 lbs, but only drops to 27 after 5 minutes. This is well under the specs. I also did two smoke tests just to be sure - no visible smoke anywhere. In fact I'm getting back pressure in my smoke machine. Also, a vacuum check also shows within spec at a steady 21 hg. I'm thinking fuel pump at this point. Also, idle and rpms are really consistent. Prior to replacing injectors, I was getting some variable idle and some misses. So, multiple problems overall in this car.
@@mikeward2922 ok it’s possible it could be also be bad fuel pressure regulator. Maybe that would be a easier and cheaper try than the fuel pump first since a bad fuel pressure regulator can cause this as well.
Easiest way is to unbolt the two 10mm bolts and removing it from the rail. I think it’s pressed in so you can’t remove it from the flange area or at least risk messing it up if you do so
Not really, you can try the tool but there’s a flange within the steel connector that won’t allow you to easily pop it off. Just finding the right tool would take a lot longer than just pressing the tabs as shown in the video 😂
Thanks, this was exactly what I needed to know. I had seen people WD-40'ing the clip before squeezing both sides to make it easier, but I couldn't find the clip. It's under that housing you removed. You have to use a $13 tool (and find the right one) to remove it at the other end. There are 4 "clips"(?) inside the metal cup that have to be released. I saw someone who made his own with a hose. that he had cut open length wise to get around the left side on the metal pipe before sliding it into the cup. You slide it in between the pipe and cup then push the cup towards the engine so that the clips inside it release, then push the hose or special tool with the cup away from the engine.
I really just need to know if the pressure valve inside the tank (old RAV means I can't reach it from under the back seat) is what's causing the hard start. Hard to push the two sides and strong release shows the pressure is high at first, but easier if i wait 10 minutes, confirming that valve (it's not a vacuum-assisted type of pressure regulator on the fuel rail, so I don't need to check that diaphragm)
No problem! Did you check what your fuel pressure rating on that line is?
how did you depressurize the fuel system? There is confusion all over because of how on a 2007 Rav4 base, the Fuel Pump relay in the under hood fuse box 2 is not really there - on relay, no spot for the relay. I recently replaced the fuel filter in the tank, (yes, had to drop the tank), and in doing so, I pulled the 20a fuse marked for EFI Main in that same fuse box location. It's position 20 I believe, the top most 20a fuse closest to driver. I did that, loosened gas cap, and cranked away. It immediately did not start really, so I wonder just how effectively I was depressuring the fuel line. When I removed the tank and disconnected those lines under the car, I did not get hardly any type of spray, so I assumed it was good enough. I was close to empty in the tank, very close. I'm definitely looking at doing how you removed this line. My job is replacing fuel injectors. Thanks!
On my case, I did an engine swap on the Toyota. It sat for a few days so it naturally depressurized itself. Normally you did it right though you could remove the fuel pump relay or the fuse and crank it a little bit with the gas cap off. It’s worked every time for myself that way! Yea these vehicles are a little tricky, which is surprising for Toyota! Normally they’re really easy to work on ha ok yea this is the easiest way to remove that line. You could also remove the two 10 mm bolts on the fuel regulator as well but you risk leaking unless you replace the o-ring on it. Removing it the way I showed on here saves you time though since you can pop it back on when you’re done.
@@tonytorques Just finished the fuel injector job. Thank you so much. I removed that line as you described. I thought this would be a big job, and it only took about an hour and half taking my time. I pulled that 20a fuse, cranked, and when I disconnected that line at that quick connect, hardly any fuel. Saved having to buy more tools. By the way - if you have any advice on a 'too lean' condition, I'd love to hear it. These injectors did make it run a bit better and clear a miss it seems, but I've been fighting a p0171 lean condition code. Fuel trims are a bit high on the positive side, both short term and long term. I have recently replaced MAF, O2 sensors, plugs, fuel pressure regulator and filter, just not the fuel pump. After sitting an hour or so, it's hard starting. However, if you put pedal to floor and open that throttle, it starts up, so definitely flooded a bit from what I assume is ECU pumping more fuel in to account for the lean condition.
@@mikeward2922 No problem! Glad to help and hear that the job you did went well. Thanks for subscribing! Based on what you’re saying It’s possible if your fuel pressure is off, maybe try doing a fuel pressure test first before you buy the pump. You can rent the tool at orielys or Autozone. Also does your vehicle have trouble idling properly? Or is the rpms high on it/inconsistent?
@@tonytorques Just did a fuel pressure test. 31 lbs, but only drops to 27 after 5 minutes. This is well under the specs. I also did two smoke tests just to be sure - no visible smoke anywhere. In fact I'm getting back pressure in my smoke machine. Also, a vacuum check also shows within spec at a steady 21 hg. I'm thinking fuel pump at this point. Also, idle and rpms are really consistent. Prior to replacing injectors, I was getting some variable idle and some misses. So, multiple problems overall in this car.
@@mikeward2922 ok it’s possible it could be also be bad fuel pressure regulator.
Maybe that would be a easier and cheaper try than the fuel pump first since a bad fuel pressure regulator can cause this as well.
How you remove the other side though?
Easiest way is to unbolt the two 10mm bolts and removing it from the rail. I think it’s pressed in so you can’t remove it from the flange area or at least risk messing it up if you do so
😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮 one thank you so much. 🙏🙏🙏🙏
@@Oliverkeys23 I’d take 1 subscribe as appreciation 😂
If you used the right tool you would of had that line of 10 times in the time it took you to remove it the other way
Not really, you can try the tool but there’s a flange within the steel connector that won’t allow you to easily pop it off. Just finding the right tool would take a lot longer than just pressing the tabs as shown in the video 😂