How to Push and Pull Film
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ธ.ค. 2018
- Learn how to push and pull your film to gain more contrast and grain as an artistic way to expand your film photography skills.
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Jay P. Morgan has been working as a Commercial Photographer and Film Director in the Los Angeles area for more than 20 years developing an impressive list of clients from Paramount to McDonald's. Jay P.'s experience with elaborate set design and extensive lighting are key to the success of his illustrative work.
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I love when the photographer is explaining camera jargon and the model just stands beside them looking at the camera like "mhm yea"
They’re not supposed to get it. They’re just a face.
TBH she did a great job she wasn't like "mmhm yea" she wasn't pretending to agree she simply looked pretty and seemed like she was genuinely listening. She did great given the awkwardness of the situation haha
I really like your results pushing 2 stops. Some people gripe about grain, but I think it just lets film look like film, and that’s a good thing!
I definitely enjoy the look of grain as well! Thanks for watching :)
I love when you guys do these film and exposure comparisons however, I would have liked to see the exposure comparison include the image when the film is shot at box speed and processed for box speed. This should have been your baseline for comparison for all of these tests.
Thanks for the suggestion!
@@TheSlantedLens Hi, if i were to pull portra 400 1 stop because i shot it at 160 ISO how much time would i have to develop it for compensation. What the the math to figure out development times for this?
@@jonathanclarke5763 You can find timetables for this info.
Finally I understand this concept. You da man!!
Thanks Leo for supporting and watching! What kind of film stock do you shoot with?
@@TheSlantedLens Portra 400. I'll look to try these push/pull effects soon
Ive been searching/waiting for a video comparison like this. Thank you so much!
Yes!! We are so glad that you found us
Great vid! First one to explain pushing/pulling with photo examples. Love it
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your feedback!
Love the fuji contrast +skin tones
Great Video! I love pushing B&W film but have never tried to push color. I have been shooting film since the 1970's and learned more about pushing color today than I ever knew before. I love your videos!
Wow thats awesome Jeffrey! Keep on shooting and experimenting. I got a lot of new ideas in my live Q&A for film to test out and I encourage everyone to keep on trying new things.
Fantastic explanation, Beautiful! By far the most useful tutorial on Push/Pull! Congrats guys!
Glad you liked it! Hope you gleaned some good knowledge.
Best video for pushing and pulling I’ve seen! I like low-contrast city shots so I plan to get into pulling!
Go for it! Thanks for watching!
Wow what a superb video, thank you so much! Honestly I'm so impressed and learned a lot!
Glad it was helpful and that you learned a lot!
Extremely helpful video!Thank you!
Great explanation. I FINALLY understood it
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
I have learnt how to shoot digital from videos and now with film. Thank you !
Thank you! Explained wonderfully.
You are very welcome. Glad it was helpful!
GREAT AND INFORMATIVE VIDEO! I LOVED HOW YOU HAD IMAGES TO SHOW EXACTLY WHAT GOES ON WITH EVERY DIFFERENT PULL/PUSH STOP!! MOST DEFINITELY MY FAVORITE OF THESE VIDEOS!!!!!!
Good to hear. Thanks for your comment!
Great video! Thanks for doing this and sharing the results
Of course, we had a blast testing out the film and shooting. We encourage you to shoot your own tests and experiment with which film style you like best!
I love this guy... He explains it very clearly and straight to the point. I spend almost a week trying to find information on iso pushing and pulling all I was getting is subscribe and Yada Yada Yada off topics allot but this is my ticket. Big Thanks to you man. I'm already subscribe to you anyways. Keep it up bro. Definitely you are the man.
So glad you found it helpful!
I stopped shooting film years ago. Have no intention to go back. When i saw your model, I watched the whole thing! May view couple more times. Thank you.
Great! A beautiful model does help to make shooting more fun.
Oh man. Samone is gorgeous! Great video!
Thanks for watching. Hope you learned a thing or two!
Very cool. Wish I'd known about this all those years ago when I shot film!
Picked up an EOS 3 and some Ilford BW 400 having seen some amazing work by Ted Vieira. Hopefully a fun personal project.
You got great shots, nice one PJ!
Wishing you and your team a happy new year :)
Thanks Jenny! You have a great new year as well :)
thanks for the very informative video. cheers mate
That was by far the best push/pull video on entire YT
Thank you very much, I am glad you enjoyed it.
omg jay p morgan for a sec i thought i was at the wrong video cause i was listening and thought it had something to do with the bank.
Edit:its 2am and my typing is like help.
One of the best explanations on pushing and pulling - and all in 14 minutes! (-:
Thanks for watching Patricia, what film stock are you interested in shooting with?
Thanks for the prompt response. I am new to color film and after driving myself nuts using all different film speeds from different manufacturers, I am disciplining myself to staying with Portra 400 and Ilford FP4 125 both 120. The more intuitive side of me (as I review more and more of my scans) leans toward Fuji 400 H as Portra is a bit too airy and light for me. I like a cooler, moodier, higher contrast look. Any further suggestions? I always look forward to your videos. Thanks
Extremely helpful... I like the fuji overall! +2 ftw
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for sharing your preference!
This was a great and really informative video! I have always heard (from mastin labs and others) that fuji films tend to do better with asian and darker skin tones, while kodak does better with caucasian skin tones (because they were developed for different markets and had very different local test subjects when they were designed). Maybe the pushed portra would look flattering for a lighter skin tone!
Great video. Very informative and model is a goddess!
Thanks Dave! What style did you like the best in this video?
The Slanted Lens I liked the seated outdoor with the door in the background with the Porta 400 with the one stop push.
I am new and have a lot to learn and found this vid very informative, thank you! I must say though, I liked the pictures that you said were "pulling" a lot more. Probably because I am new I cannot see what you all do but I liked the softer almost dreamy look and how everything blended together. I am hoping eventually I can understand what you mean by "flat".
Flat would mean not very much contrast. Thanks for your comment.
Love your analog videos
Thanks for watching and supporting :) which style did you like the most?
Fuji 400H +1
Would love to be able to look at the scans not through youtube compression
Interesting!
I wonder what Ektar would look like pulled (pulled?) because it's so contrasty to begin with, maybe it might handle being pulled better than each of these did. I just might be giving that a try later this year when I pickup some fresh chemicals.
Pushed though, I loved how that Fuji looked across the board. Man, what a gorgeous subject too. I loved that style with the ring in her hair.
Thanks for the inspiration, Mr. Morgan!
That's a good test to make! Definitely worth a shoot, tag us in your photos @theslantedlens
Thanks for watching our content :)
So when you Leave your film for development do you tell them to develop as usual 400/800 film or you letting them know you have underexposed and let them develop it differently?
Thank you from Jamaica.
You're welcome! Hit subscribe to get more film videos :)
Hi Morgan! One question please on this old but beautiful made video. Can i get the same results shooting at box speed but underexposing or overexposing 1-2 stops ?
Yes you can. You use development to compensate. That will give you the desired result. If you underexpose one stop you increase the processing to compensate.
pushed film is beautiful
Yes it is! Thanks for watching!
Is your lab knocking 30 seconds off the developer time during your one stop pulls, i.e., 2:45 instead of 3:15?
Hi from England! I love your work and this video, but one quick question. If your using a light meter when pushing or pulling, do you keep your ISO/box speed on the light meter at original box speed or the new box speed. Eg; Portra 400 shot at 200.
I keep it at the original speed and increase it from there one stop. So Ima shoot in 400 speed film at 800. it gives it one less stop so you push it one stop.
Hey thanks for the video :) was just wondering if using the exposure dial on my Nikon F4 to adjust the exposure level would achieve the same job? And when I get film developed should I write in the notes to either push or pull? Thanks
It is possible you can use the exposure dial. But it is better to use a meter. And yes, you should put notes with the film when you send it in.
regarding the favorable skin tones for the Fuji over the Portra, I've heard it suggested that Fuji being a Japanese company it's film formula is optimized for Asian skin tones and Kodak being a US company, skin tones are optimized for caucasians. Maybe different results with the Portra on models with fair skin.
That would be an interesting test to see! Thanks for bringing up that observation. Let us know if you ever conduct your own tests :)
I used to push and pull VPS. Rate at Asa 160 got some good shoots.
That is awesome. Post some stuff on our Facebook group.
Tbh the pushed shots look SO much better but I strongly prefer a great deal of contrast in film.
Which look did you like better, pushing or pulling?
The Portra 400 plus 2 stops (@1600) is amazing! I look forward to trying that.
Yes it's definitely a very grainy and contrasted look! Tag us in your shots @theslantedlens
Yea, that pushed Fuji Pro in the flat light is sooo nice...
@@WoodyONeal I was really digging the Fuji, even though normally I'm a Portra fan.
NO control images. 400shot at 400.
How would you process Fuji that has been pulled -1? Would you process it at box speed or -1
A tribe Called film box speed if you haven’t figured it out yet.
Hi! With the first shots (overexposing the fuji 400) did you meter for the shadows? I'm struggling to know if i should shot at ISO 200 and meter for shadows and then under develope 1 stop or if I should meter for the average shadows and highlights and then underdevelope 1 stop.
I meter for an average of the highlights and shadows.
Any special recommendations for B&W? I'll be shooting Tmax 400 on a vintage camera that only goes to 1/100. Pull 2?
Don't pull the film unless you like the look. It is not meant to compensate for exposure. That would be better with an ND filter.
I'm just starting to get into analog photography, is it only possible to push/pull film by certain stops? For example, can I push Portra 400 to 500-600 or does it have to be 800, 1600 and so on?
Great video btw, really well explained and I pretty much understand the basic idea of pushing/pulling now:)
You can push all the films. Go for it.
I am about to shoot my first roll of film, I now understand the benefits of pushing and pulling, I noticed that my local lab charges extra to push the film while processing, was just wondering, do people push and pull on the same roll of film? im wondering if the lab would be able to know which exposures to push, which to pull, and which to just process as would be normal?
You need to give the lab instructions and you have to do the whole roll the same, so you have to choose one way for the whole roll.
Also when you push or pull the film how should you meter your scene? Thanks
If I'm pushing 400 ISO film to 1600, I'm metering for 1600. You will get 2 stops of underexposure doing that, which will be made up by developing the film longer. As Jay said, you will get more grain and contrast as a result of pushing the film, which may be the look you're going for, or you'll be able to shoot with a faster shutter speed. For example, I've pushed 400 ISO film to 1600 when shooting sports so I can use faster shutter speed to freeze the action. I've pushed 400 ISO film to 1600 when shooting in low light at night so I could have a fast enough shutter speed to shoot hand-held and have the flexibility of not having to shoot wide-open for every image.
so when you push or pull iso. are you still metering for correct exposure ? meaning change the Fstop or shutter speed ? does the camera meter show a stop over ? All this is new to me and i'm trying to understand.
Pushing and pulling film is purposely under or over exposing the film. And then processing it longer or shorter to compensate. So if you are in a dark situation you can shoot Tri-X at 1600 ISO. Which means you are giving the film 2 stops less light than it is rated for. Now you process it longer to give you a correct negative.
I think this video is really informative but it would have been cool to see some results for pulling in camera but developing normally. I’ve had amazing results in shooting Ultramax 400 down at 200 and developing at box speed; really helps balance highlight definition with shadow information.
Good point. Thank you for sharing!
How would you meter though ? Let see I’m shooting potra 400 and set 200 in the box ...should I meter for iso 400 or 200?
Use 200 as your box speed for the 400 film. Now if you are going to push 1 stop use 400. If you are going to pull 1 stop use 100.
Could i shoot 400 at 800 and push it to 200? i like the over exposed look but will be shooting indoors next week & have a bunch of 400 stocked up!
Shooting 400 film speed at 800 ISO is underexposing, so you're letting less light in due to your light meter reading it at 800. If you were to process it as a 200 (which is pulling not pushing), so you'll be under processing a one-stop underexposed shot which means flat dark image.
Hi, so if I over/underexpose my film shall I tell the lab to develop for the speed I shoot at? (say I shoot a roll off 400 at 200 and another one at 800: shall the lab develop at 200 for one and 800 for the other?). At the moment I can only find standard development ie: if I shoot a roll of 400 at 200 it will be developed as per normal). Thank you
If you underexpose your film then you have to push the film in processing to get a normal negative. Example: If I shoot my 400 Tri-x at 1600 I have underexposed the film by 2 stops to allow me to shoot in a lower light situation. Now I have to push the film or give it more time in the developer to give me a correctly exposed negative.
we shoot a 400 film when it pulled ios back to 200. So the shutter speed should stay in 1/400 as under-exposure or 1/200 as correct-exposure. If it's developed at +1, the 1/400 go to correct and 1/200 becomes over exposure?
A 400 speed film shot at 200 is 1/2 box speed and processed at normal is your normal bench mark. When you pull the film you would shoot at 400 and push the film 1 stop. Its underexposed by 1 stop and will need to be pushed 1 stop in the developer.
So if I have an 800 film and want more contrast, do I shoot at 1600 ISO and then tell the lab to develop it normally or do I have to add a special notice to the lab to do also something with it?
If you want to create more contrast you shoot at 1600. But you can get some better explanation in this video: th-cam.com/video/HZOIPPRhtK0/w-d-xo.html
At 3:52 I think that's a mistake. The photo you previously said you pushed is now on the left side (the pulled side) and vice versa.
omg thanks! I thought i was going crazy lol!
honestly, man, so helpful, love your enthusiasm as well.
also........ your name is JP morgan ahhaha lol
Pushing for low light and for higher f stops to get more depth of field, or higher shutter speeds.
Pulling to get you more data and range under favorable conditions. It might not look best “raw” but with darkroom or digital processing it will come into its own.
Porta 400 doesn’t really need pushing until at the earliest 1600, unless for effect.
Just shoot at the ISO you wish and develop normally.
Remember with negative film, the developed strip is not your final product. Never was and never should be.
Thanks for sharing with us! Which style do you prefer shooting with?
The Slanted Lens that’s like asking what kind of music you like: Loud or quiet.
There is a place and time for both.
There was various technologies being developed around 2000 such as formate doping for film, that would have made film generally as much as five times faster.
Of course the Trump like politics of everything digital being better (never mind that electronic sensors are analog as they come at the fundamental level), put the brakes on much of that research.
It trickles along because of holography, where a better substrate than silver halide has not been found, and for the film industry where not all producers and directors have lost their mind.
Nice info thank you :)
Helge Frisenette sorry, im a film photography newb. What do you mean by “the developed strip is not your final product.”? Thanks
Hi, yours videos are very informative. I am beginning with analog photography and got myself old yashica 635 tlr, live in Ireland where weather is most of the time overcast... So for that reason I bought first role of film fuji Pro 400... Now.. I don't have light meter so have to go with sunny rule 16... Since my yashica faster ss is 1/500 and let's say I want to shoot wide open 3.5 in this case, outside is cloudy...I can't raise the ss... How will I compensate for good exposure or should I compensate at all or Should I use film with lower iso? Tnx
p. s. I presume I shoud push film 1 stop to underexposed (maybe I got it totally wrong :) but please bear with me, just start to learn about film photography!
First off, check out our video on exposing film. See it in this link in our film series: th-cam.com/users/TheSlantedLenssearch?view_as=subscriber&query=film
Your 400 speed film should be shot at 200. Which means f/16 at 1/200th sec for sunlight. Overcast you should shoot at 1/200th sec at f/8 if it is not too overcast and f/5.6 if it is heavy overcast. Don't be shy. Just start shooting and you will get great images.
@@TheSlantedLens Thanks a lot for responding!
This is really thorough and the explanations are clear. The side-by-sides with various film stock are very helpful. For the love of god though, please drop the music or find something that doesn't sound like a 1990's racing video game.
Glad you appreciated the info. Yeah, our editor sometimes got carried away.
I'm confused here. If I try to push a ISO 400 film to 1600 and shoot manually, do I still need to change the box speed to 1600 on my camera (as I understand this may only helps if you need to shoot it auto?) ? Im not sure it makes a difference when I develop it.
If I shoot manual, do I just meter the scene in ISO 1600 then put the settings on my camera? Glad if anyone can help!
Yes, you change the box speed and then you tell the lab that you pushed your film 2 stops and they will increase the time in the developer to give you a good negative.
I have not done as extensive a test as you have with these film stocks, but I prefer the look of Fuji Pro400h when it's shot at ISO200 and developed for ISO400, one stop overexposed in general.
Great, we are here to show you our results so you can decide which style you like the best!
What do you measure by Portra 400 at 200 ISO?
Box speed Portra 400 should be shot at 200 ISO. This gives the exposure more light. It is a calculation that you set your ASA setting at.
Hang on, is it allowed to set 3 different iso in a roll?
You can but it’s difficult. If it’s a 36exp film then your first 12 photos (400 ISO) next 12 photos (800 ISO) and last 12 (1600 ISO) for example. Make sure you count and cut exactly where you need to. You must have 3 different film developers at the ready. I’ve done this several times when testing out new film
What happened if i push iso 200 film to +1 stop and develop it normally?
That's just under exposing
How do you do this on a camera that uses DX code to automatically get the iso? Exposure compensation?
Yes, exposure compensation works for that.
@@TheSlantedLens thank you! That explains why it goes backwards on the dial, cause negative exposure compensation is pushing and positive ex compensation is pulling!
Confused me at first!
This is something all people who shoot film should know, but I don't know why you would bother with pushing and pulling to get the right look, it can easily be done in post. (If you make wet prints is a very different story!)
From a scanning point of view flat (pulled) negatives are much better, and as already stated, contrast (and grain) can be added during post. This makes pulling a lot more attractive than pushing.
That leaves us with low light situations when pushing is necessary.
Great, just as I started discovering that I prefer fuji pro400 over portra, it gets discontinued
Bummer. Have fun shooting with film!
7:08 👌
It sucks that the Fuji 400h isn’t available anymore.
That is too bad. Time to make a switch!
I might push an Ektachrome E100G to EI400 (expired) any tips?
❤️ ❤️ ❤️
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
That was great fun and I actually learned something from it as well, so thank you very much. One request though: next time don't put Simone in the intro! Those first few minutes looked like I was watching two half frame images and I only saw and listened to the right of the two frames. Took me several attempts to at least listen to the left frame :-)
Thanks for your suggestion, we will keep that in mind the next time we shoot!
I think it depends on lightning situations. Sometimes -1 looks better, while in other situation +1 looks better
Yes, lighting situations definitely have an effect. If you understand the craft well enough you can start making those kinds of decisions.
Greetings from Uyghur people!
Awesome! I love Uyghur food, it's so delicious. What kind of film is your favorite?
The Slanted Lens thanks for responding to me. I am your one of your fans whose supporting you.
Thanks for sharing this helpful film.
You're welcome, please continue to comment and share our videos :) We appreciate your support!
The Slanted Lens thank you 🙏.
Yes of course I will share it.
Please support Uyghur people.
Save Uyghur and Free Uyghur 🙂
LOL the first minute and a half in, the model is thinking: I have no clue what you're talking about
So funny. Thanks for watching!
What happens when you push/pull but the developer doesnt compensate and develops as if you didnt push/pull?
Your film will be over or underexposed.
Would it be possible to do the same using black and white film?
Absolutely. A very important technique for B&W film photographers.
Great explanation and tutorial, learned a lot! Seems like pulling film is pretty useless in all of the situations you used it in.
I have never done much pulling of film. I don't think it looks that great. If flattens things out.
What happens when you process the film without telling the developer to adjust?
Also what aperture were you shooting most of these portraits? Great stuff
If you don't give it enough time, it'll be too thin and won't look good. Just remember to tell the developer to process it based on whether you pulled or pushed it a stop.
@@applesforakbar Depending on which way you go and what film you use it will be very underexposed or over exposed if you don't tell the lab. There's no way to save underexposed film - it's going to look really bad depending on the film but over exposure with colour negative film is mostly ok again depending on the film. Portra 400 or Fuji Pro400H will handle multiple stops of over-exposure. So if you shoot Porta 400 at 100 and forget to tell the lab it doesn't matter at all really (I always shoot Portra at 100) but if you shoot Portra 400 at 1600 (2 stops under) the negs will be pretty terrible and Portra is one of the better films at handling under-exposure.
for daytime indoors and bright outdoors, I like the look of Portra 400 rated at 800 (+1 stop) and being pushed
Yes. Sounds great. Thanks for sharing!
I used to Shoot 3m film rate at ASA 100. I used to shoot at ASA 50 it seam it come out better.
That is the principle that you want a denser negative to give you more detail and open shadows.
YOOO! YOU LOOK LIKE AN OLDER MARK CUBAN FROM SHARK TANK!!!!🤣🤣🤣
I haven't heard that one before. He probably just dyes his hair.
Portra 400 and 800 true ASA is at least one more EV, so +1 exposure or even +2 exposure for the 400 one is not overxposure but just good exposure. I'm not talking about push. For low light and 3200 ASA you don't need +2EV push on the portra 800, just +1 push or less, because true ASA is at least 1600, so you can still have good colors and contrast. Anywey, high ASA is good for very low light - weird that even with high ASA and push you have shaked pictures...
For 3200 ASA or 6400 push I would use Ilford Delta 3200 developed in DDX that even from small format 35 enlarged to 20x30 cm ( 8x10") don't show grain, but you can have your grain enlarged to 1m x70cm...
For people in color I use more 200 ASA and 100 ASA Kodak, and for portraits in good light I use 100-200ASA ( not Portra !) plus a camera with 1/6000s, 1/8000s, or even 1/12000s for 35 or 1/4000s for 645 and ND with wide aperture for shalow DOF.
Fuji PRO show decent colors and so-so also Fuji Provia, but these are not the norm for Fuji. Superia is pretty horrific for people, shity dark reds and cold ugly atmosphere and shadows very bad for people, but pretty good for some industrial artsy compositions.
For high contrast you can use 12 ASA B&W film that can be used with wide open fast lenses even with 1/1000s shutter.
Sounds like you know what you are doing. Thanks for sharing.
Pulling negative film nowadays is unnecessary, especially these stocks. Id just over expose and you wont get the color shift
Thanks for sharing your thoughts with us!
Your test is confusing. When you say pushed to 800 did you meter at 800 and set your exposure there then extend processing to push contrast since you underexposed your film. Or did you make your exposure at 400 then increase development for contrast by 1 stop.. Also film is not magic you can’t do Anything to it that alters it’s native iso. You can tweak it with exposure and processing for effects but you can’t increase its iso. Most old school methodologies of tweaking it in processing involved increased or decreased time and or temperature. Or in the case of black and white using a slower developing agent so the tones at the bottom of the curve got more development before the tones at he top of he curve blocked up. After many years of rigorous testing some advice I would give is. you need more light use faster glass or longer exposures instead of trying to “push” your film. For those who didn’t grow up in the age of film some general guidelines are. Negative film expose for the shadows control development to hold your highlight. For chrome film make sure your base exposure holds highlight detail and fill shadows with light if necessary to hold detail there. Most professional and non professional films have optimal color between 4800 and 5300 kelvin. If you want great color from film you will need to break out a color meter and some Wratten gels and meter and adjust your filters to keep your film in the zone of optimal color with each lighting change.
looks very grainy when you push a stop, i would overexpose and put through lighroom,
You should always hire Ellen Ho --- Ellen Ho is the most attractive model in the universe.
I'm glad you enjoy her modeling! We actually get different models every video, but we may have her back in the future. Thanks for watching :)
Heyyy are you still looking for someone to help translate into Spanish?
We love the idea of our videos being translated!
The Slanted Lens I could help with that! And I love photography too so it’d be nice to help you guys!
Honestly, the pulled images were perfect, specifically for dark skin tones, the pushed film with the extra contrast is just too much.
Thanks for sharing your opinion!
Watch privilege gets pushed and pulled.
Seems like pulling is always meh. IG film shooters be pushing their film all day erryday, methinks.
It really depends on what you are shooting.
Out the gate: "set the box speed of Portra 800 at a box speed of 1600" - uh, no. Already wrong. Box speed = 800. The end.
If that works for you that is great but most people double their box speed and that gives you denser film negative and more shadow detail.
@@TheSlantedLens No, "box speed" is what is printed on the box. Further, if one shoots at an EI of 2x the box speed, one will have thinner negatives and less shadow detail. If one wants denser negatives, one would shoot at an EI of 1/2 the box speed.
another video not saying how to do it , ( more time developing ? how long ? ) ... disliked
This is not processing your own film. This is what instructions to give your lab.