Great job! Awesome work and amazing model, Kristina is art in motion. Embarrassed to share that I haven't invested in a light meter. I have several film cameras and film, so I'll definitely try your method and share the results. What would you suggest for a newbie as far as light meters?
Ah, no shame here, everyone has a different way of shooting! We love to use the Illuminati. It's just really convenient to connect to your phone and not have to walk back and forth to get a constant reading. Illuminati Light and Color Meter: bhpho.to/2ycApee
Enjoyed this video immensely. I was "weened" on film cameras with no meters back in the early 1970's. As a general practice, I totally agree with your advice to "over-expose" film by up to a stop, but it should be noted that this technique is ONLY for negative film, NOT transparency film. My experience with the sunny 16 rule has always led to thin, under-exposed negatives. As such, I've simply modified the term to a "sunny 11" rule for negative film. Furthermore, understanding exposure values (EV) allows you to choose an aperture of your choice along with the appropriate shutter speed.
Jesus h Christ. I’ve watched 30 videos some that were 30 minutes long. And this video explained everything with real examples and 0 bull . Thank you!!!!!
As a film & a digital shooter who learned exposure with the Sunny 16 Rule and EV Scale, I still override internal metering on numerous occasions. A number of my film cameras don't have any metering so if I'm in the field and either of my handheld light meters' batteries die I'm still going to come back with usable negatives. In my opinion, too many photographers today rely on their camera to provide correct exposure without thinking about what's happening & then try to fix it in post-processing. Learn to create the best image in-camera possible and then you'll find post-processing much easier to do in less time. Great comparison video!
Thanks for sharing your insight with us. We acknowledge that everyone has different preferences to light metering, but we agree that getting the right shot saves a lot of time in post!
Years ago, I did wedding photography, plenty of white dresses. I used a Gossen Profisix and Fujicolor 400 at box speed. Exposure perfect every single time over thousands of photos. What a meter, I don't think a better meter was ever made. Oh the camera, a Pentax 6x7. Camera, light meter, developing all have an impact. Over exposing is ok with colour negative film but not so good with reversal film. Again the Profisix nailed it for me. Always with incident light metering. A good quality lab also plays an important part, especially with the printing. I always used to pay the extra to have each negative assessed for colour balance and exposure, even for the proofs. Your work has to look good if you are going to make sales.
I always have shot Portra and Pro 400h at ASA 200 and 100. Your video has been helpful in clairifying why "overexposing" works. Next time I shoot Pro 400h I'll use ASA 100. Also, thanks for the tip about Richard Photo Lab. I think a drive out to Valencia from my home in Ventura County will be more fun than packing up my exposed rolls and mailing them to Parsons, KS.
I doubt it you are right. I deny the correctness of the rule of Sunny 16. Which aperture in the snow and on the beach in the Summer? My carton Agfa Berlin two ruler exposure meter made in 1920 is better. Besides my Weston Master, Gosen Lunasix, Sekonic 308 L and my brains.
Great video, thank you. I shoot mostly these same 3 films, would really love to see you make a video on night photography metering as well, I guess may be slightly different due to film reciprocity but that is easy to factor in with film data sheets.
I just picked up 2 flawless camers. An om1 and mat 124g.. waiting on batteries but I think I'll be fine with these methods. Already loaded portra 400 and 800. Thanks for your videos.
Key Point @1:38 - This advice is for Color Negative (e.g. C-41) film - specifically the film emulsions mentioned (i.e. Kodak Portra 400, Kodak Portra 800, Fuji Pro 400) ONLY and NOT for Color Positive / Slide (e.g. E-6) film like Ektachrome or Black & White Film.
Once I got back to using film about 10 years ago, I used a Sekonic Twinmate L-208, almost exclusively in reflective (I'm lazy, as will become apparent). I still use that Twinmate (don't let anyone tell you that cheesey little plastic thing isn't durable. I also used a Sekonic L-328 with a spot attachment. The thing is, I'd get impatient and lazy, and shoot away, using sunny 16 without the meter, even though I carried the meter with me. One day I ended up out shooting on the street in Highland Park without a meter (I went there to peruse soon-to-close-for-good Highland Park Camera's remaining inventory, but the reclusive lady wouldn't let me in). I had brought my Super Ikonta to try to find some filters for it, and it was loaded with Provia 100. It was late in the day, and the lighting was challenging, but I shoot up the roll anyway, using sunny 16. The pictures came out okay. That's when I pretty much stopped using any metering for film (knowing no one will ever care about one's photos is very freeing). I am so lazy, I even gave up control of shutter speed and aperture to a great extent, by shooting mostly with 100 year old No. 2 Kodak Brownies. These things only cost US$10 or 15 so I have a number of them (the 1910 Model C is best). I load them up with ASA film speeds ranging from 25, 50, 100, 200 & 3200, and bring out the one that seems to fit the lighting condition best using sunny 16.
Wow that's awesome that the sunny 16 has brought you so far. We definitely know that everyone's purpose for shooting is different, and it's always cool to see what shots you can get without technology or equipment to tell you the right settings.
I doubt it you are right. I deny the correctness of the rule of Sunny 16. Which aperture in the snow and on the beach in the Summer? My carton Agfa Berlin two ruler exposure meter made in 1920 is better. Besides my Weston Master, Gosen Lunasix, Sekonic 308 L and my brains.
Yes, you can take a meter reading off the grey card using the internal camera meter. But is it hard to get a grey card in every shot to meter. But it does work.
thank you for the video...i have to say one thing though...when u underexpose and push it up in post you get a very grainy very dirty negative that gives you a very old styled not perfect image that is very nostalgic and evocative of an era where people dont normally expose correctly....
I think you misunderstood. When you cut the box speed in half you are giving the negative more exposure, not less. And that translates into a cleaner image.
@@GreatLittleStories i see what you’re saying. I don’t understand why middle grey is referred to as perfect exposure. I think it should be considered “properly balanced exposure” and from that the photographer can work to manipulate the exposure create the image they want. Semantics really. This video though finally made everything clear. I’ve watched so many videos of people making no sense it’s unbelievable.
I prefer kodak Portra (Fuji) has cyan cast When I was a working wedding & portrait photographer kodak portra was my favourite film my metering method incident light for colour and reflected light for black and white
I generally can guess my exposure pretty spot on but I just got one of those tiny Sekonic Twinmates which works great, before that I would use my phone to get a good baseline reading.
@@TheSlantedLens yep, on Android the LightMeter app works really well. A real meter is faster but the phone works well as a matrix type meter in really tricky lighting
You can try the Photo Friend App for Android. It lets you meter a scene and then select a small section of the scene for spot metering. It provides a very fast and effective way to decide your settings.
Well for film...................From the first photographs to the first use of a light meter Photographic film masters got great shots. What did they know (maybe an earlier version of the sunny 16 rule) that modern photographers have no clue of. I guess that's why they were masters.
A question for anyone out there. Could you just shoot at box speed use your exposer compensation dial to over/under expose as you wish then develop normally to get similar results as pushing or pulling film?
Pushing film means that you are saying that it is more sensitive to light than it is. So you process it longer to get a properly exposed negative. It doesn't matter how you tell the camera that you are going to underexpose it as long that the camera meter is set correctly to underexpose the film. And yes, you can use the exposer compensation dial.
@@TheSlantedLens Thanks a lot for your reply. I am recently getting back into film. It can be a bit confusing about pushing and pulling film which also relates to the amount time one processes the negative. As oppose to overexposing/underexposing the negative. A lot people on TH-cam fail to make that distinction making it a bit confusing to newbies. Thanks again!
I mostly shoot slide films I must work on what I want to expose and because of the narrow exposure slide film has compared to the more tolerant c41 I don't have the luxury you did when taking those photos! With my black and white rolls i overexpose half a stop. I would love to have your "cold" weather now, Sweden has entered its cold and dark season and we will not see any of your lovely California light until March/April ish time! I meter using my dslr on the dumb cameras.
Nice, we don't normally shoot with slide films, but that's exciting. Wow, that sounds really dark and cold. Well, if you ever need a little bit more sun you are always welcome to join us here!
Love the TSL, and i'm subscribed! Question, @ 5:32 if shooting 1/2 the box speed of ASA 400, on digital ISO 200, isn't that underexposing 1 stop for a denser neg?
I shoot a lot of scenic [green] and old buildings [gray/brown]. I prefer iso 200 or even 100 . Is Fugi iso 100 a good film to use or are there better ? Thanks ! (I live out west)
2 Things. I thought you were going to show the model's link to her instagram so we could contact her. Secondly, I find it interesting that you didn't include a known value, like a gray card, to help determine the accuracy of your exposures. You could measure the value in post and see how close you got, as well as using the camera zoomed into see only it, to use the camera meter. If you are going to carry a second camera, it is just as much work to carry a gray card or even one of the folding gray cards. My go to method of metering is a hand held light/flash meter.
Sorry about that. We included her instagram handle in the video, but here is the link: instagram.com/kristinammarie Thanks for sharing your thoughts on using a gray card.
hello!! I have a Yashica Fx3, that shows a green dot 🟢 when exposure is correct. I have read that it is better to overexpose one step ➕️. My yashica has center weight meter. I also have read that you should point towards a shadow, so that this 🟢 appears. But.. what happens when everything in the frame is very bright and no shadows? where should I point my meter? Should I underexposed my meter if I point towards a sunny area? I dont understand how to meter to have a good exposure. Hope someone can help me
If the box speed is 400, shoot at 200. That is overexposing one stop which will open up the shadows. Then point your camera straight at the subject matter and use that meter reading. You may find this video helpful: th-cam.com/video/-uEZ0UBYKvg/w-d-xo.html
@@TheSlantedLens thanks. I use full manual camera, so I could also find this green dot for good exposure, then decrease two stops my aperture. So even if my subject is in shadow or in light the meter should be the same? I have seen the video you recomended, but doesnt explain what to do when you meter in shadows and there are no highlits, or you meter in shadows with a lot of highlighgts. This is where I found the problem, I have reed to meter in shadows, but shadows can be all around my frame, or shadows can be only a small portion of my frame with different contrasts...
Why has not you used a Hasselblad Quick Coupler? Why do not use a 30 cm cable release? Why do not you use three A12 backs? Why do you shoot with a Macro lens?
You can definitely use a hand-held light meter to take an ambient light reading without having to put the meter next to your subject, pointed toward the camera. Wouldn't you want to meter the ambient light of your scene by holding the meter next to the camera, pointed at your subject? Using the meter next to your subject, is taking an incident light reading that you might do when trying to determine optimal flash power output, not necessarily when metering ambient light of the scene. Metering ambient light of the scene with a hand-held meter you would want to include the reflected light off your subject wouldn't you? Especially in the case of your video where your model had a very bright white dress on.
very general... interesting but why doesn't anyone ever show you go to read a light meter and merely just say overview stuff.... it's all not that simple but thanks /
Yup, so in order to set it properly on the digital camera, we half the ISO from the film stock. We were shooting on ISO 400 Film Stock, so set the ISO of the digital to 200 in order to get an accurate image. Does that make sense?
My take on the one stop difference is because most digital cameras frankly exaggerate their ISO’s. On my Fuji X-T1 I found it to be about two stops off from the Sunny 16 rule. Of course Fuji exaggerates more than most.
I doubt it you are right. I deny the correctness of the rule of Sunny 16. Which aperture in the snow and on the beach in the summer? My carton Agfa Berlin two ruler exposure meter made in 1920 is better.
For print film the exposure can be off by a stop or two and you won't have a problem. But with slide film if you are off a stop your image is not good. So people bracket and use a light meter to get as close as they can.
You have to had shot on film before and be a passionate photographer in order to truly understand. Its not so much the result, but the process itself. And yes its expensive these days so I can understand why to the average person it wouldn't make sense.
I doubt it you are right. I deny the correctness of the rule of Sunny 16. Which aperture in the snow and on the beach in the summer? My carton Agfa Berlin two ruler exposure meter made in 1920 is better.
Leave a comment down below about what your go-to method for light metering is!
Great job! Awesome work and amazing model, Kristina is art in motion. Embarrassed to share that I haven't invested in a light meter. I have several film cameras and film, so I'll definitely try your method and share the results. What would you suggest for a newbie as far as light meters?
Ah, no shame here, everyone has a different way of shooting! We love to use the Illuminati. It's just really convenient to connect to your phone and not have to walk back and forth to get a constant reading. Illuminati Light and Color Meter: bhpho.to/2ycApee
Hey! Just curious: when using the digital camera method, why not set the DSLR ISO at the same speed as the box speed?
Enjoyed this video immensely. I was "weened" on film cameras with no meters back in the early 1970's. As a general practice, I totally agree with your advice to "over-expose" film by up to a stop, but it should be noted that this technique is ONLY for negative film, NOT transparency film.
My experience with the sunny 16 rule has always led to thin, under-exposed negatives. As such, I've simply modified the term to a "sunny 11" rule for negative film. Furthermore, understanding exposure values (EV) allows you to choose an aperture of your choice along with the appropriate shutter speed.
thank you for making such a straight forward video on exposure! I finally understand what to do!
Jesus h Christ. I’ve watched 30 videos some that were 30 minutes long. And this video explained everything with real examples and 0 bull . Thank you!!!!!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
You’re the best!!!! Definitely brining my digital camera as a reference 🤣
Sounds like a good plan. Enjoy shooting with film!
As a film & a digital shooter who learned exposure with the Sunny 16 Rule and EV Scale, I still override internal metering on numerous occasions. A number of my film cameras don't have any metering so if I'm in the field and either of my handheld light meters' batteries die I'm still going to come back with usable negatives. In my opinion, too many photographers today rely on their camera to provide correct exposure without thinking about what's happening & then try to fix it in post-processing. Learn to create the best image in-camera possible and then you'll find post-processing much easier to do in less time. Great comparison video!
Thanks for sharing your insight with us. We acknowledge that everyone has different preferences to light metering, but we agree that getting the right shot saves a lot of time in post!
Years ago, I did wedding photography, plenty of white dresses. I used a Gossen Profisix and Fujicolor 400 at box speed. Exposure perfect every single time over thousands of photos. What a meter, I don't think a better meter was ever made. Oh the camera, a Pentax 6x7. Camera, light meter, developing all have an impact. Over exposing is ok with colour negative film but not so good with reversal film. Again the Profisix nailed it for me. Always with incident light metering. A good quality lab also plays an important part, especially with the printing. I always used to pay the extra to have each negative assessed for colour balance and exposure, even for the proofs. Your work has to look good if you are going to make sales.
Lots of excellent points. Thanks for sharing!
I love your infectious energy, I just got a Yashica Fx3, can’t wait to use it..this is a great video to learn film photography
Thanks for the compliment! So glad you enjoyed it!
I always have shot Portra and Pro 400h at ASA 200 and 100. Your video has been helpful in clairifying why "overexposing" works. Next time I shoot Pro 400h I'll use ASA 100. Also, thanks for the tip about Richard Photo Lab. I think a drive out to Valencia from my home in Ventura County will be more fun than packing up my exposed rolls and mailing them to Parsons, KS.
Great! Glad we can help :) We love working with Richard Photo Lab, and we are releasing a couple more videos with them as well!
Thank you for this
Boy you got back up real quick... I'd still be hanging there lol
Filming for TSL makes you really fit!
Man your videos are just so dang refreshing love the upside down hang in the beginning
I doubt it you are right.
I deny the correctness of the rule of Sunny 16.
Which aperture in the snow and on the beach in the Summer?
My carton Agfa Berlin two ruler exposure meter made in 1920 is better.
Besides my Weston Master, Gosen Lunasix, Sekonic 308 L and my brains.
There are apps that can act as light sensors, but this tutorial really helped me out. Thanks so much for this. I just inherited two film cameras
Glad you found it helpful. Have fun shooting with film!
I use the Sekonic L-208 that come with a shoe mount that I use on my Nikon FM2n and it works great and very few bad shots.
Great to hear. Thanks for sharing!
Great video, thank you. I shoot mostly these same 3 films, would really love to see you make a video on night photography metering as well, I guess may be slightly different due to film reciprocity but that is easy to factor in with film data sheets.
Well done!
I just picked up 2 flawless camers. An om1 and mat 124g.. waiting on batteries but I think I'll be fine with these methods. Already loaded portra 400 and 800. Thanks for your videos.
Nice! Show us what shots you end up getting by tagging us on insta @theslantedlens
Key Point @1:38 - This advice is for Color Negative (e.g. C-41) film - specifically the film emulsions mentioned (i.e. Kodak Portra 400, Kodak Portra 800, Fuji Pro 400) ONLY and NOT for Color Positive / Slide (e.g. E-6) film like Ektachrome or Black & White Film.
Thanks for pointing that out :)
Great job.... enjoyed.... That model was intimidatingly beautiful!
Thanks Ed! She was a pleasure to work with :)
Once I got back to using film about 10 years ago, I used a Sekonic Twinmate L-208, almost exclusively in reflective (I'm lazy, as will become apparent). I still use that Twinmate (don't let anyone tell you that cheesey little plastic thing isn't durable. I also used a Sekonic L-328 with a spot attachment. The thing is, I'd get impatient and lazy, and shoot away, using sunny 16 without the meter, even though I carried the meter with me. One day I ended up out shooting on the street in Highland Park without a meter (I went there to peruse soon-to-close-for-good Highland Park Camera's remaining inventory, but the reclusive lady wouldn't let me in). I had brought my Super Ikonta to try to find some filters for it, and it was loaded with Provia 100. It was late in the day, and the lighting was challenging, but I shoot up the roll anyway, using sunny 16. The pictures came out okay. That's when I pretty much stopped using any metering for film (knowing no one will ever care about one's photos is very freeing). I am so lazy, I even gave up control of shutter speed and aperture to a great extent, by shooting mostly with 100 year old No. 2 Kodak Brownies. These things only cost US$10 or 15 so I have a number of them (the 1910 Model C is best). I load them up with ASA film speeds ranging from 25, 50, 100, 200 & 3200, and bring out the one that seems to fit the lighting condition best using sunny 16.
Wow that's awesome that the sunny 16 has brought you so far. We definitely know that everyone's purpose for shooting is different, and it's always cool to see what shots you can get without technology or equipment to tell you the right settings.
Great video another home run
Woohoo! We love home runs! What film stock do you like shooting on the most?
Portra is my shock of choice
Pentax 1 degree Spotmeter with Zone VI Scale and take 3 readings (Highlight, Mid, and Shadow)
Sounds good. Thanks for sharing your process with us!
I doubt it you are right.
I deny the correctness of the rule of Sunny 16.
Which aperture in the snow and on the beach in the Summer?
My carton Agfa Berlin two ruler exposure meter made in 1920 is better.
Besides my Weston Master, Gosen Lunasix, Sekonic 308 L and my brains.
I'm here watching this video though I doubt I'll be shooting film anytime soon...
Brilliant video. What if the subject is far away from you? Where and how should I hold my meter if shooting film? Thanks so much!!!
Walk over to your subject and meter at your subject or if the light is the same on you as it is on the subject then you can meter where you stand.
Nice job
Thanks! We are releasing a new series on food photography this week, so make sure to stay subscribed for more information on that!
Hi, thanks for the video. What about metering on grey card using internal camera meter?
Yes, you can take a meter reading off the grey card using the internal camera meter. But is it hard to get a grey card in every shot to meter. But it does work.
thank you for the video...i have to say one thing though...when u underexpose and push it up in post you get a very grainy very dirty negative that gives you a very old styled not perfect image that is very nostalgic and evocative of an era where people dont normally expose correctly....
I think you misunderstood. When you cut the box speed in half you are giving the negative more exposure, not less. And that translates into a cleaner image.
@@TheSlantedLens i understand what you are saying....i am saying that sometimes it's incredibly sentimental to get a non perfect grainy image.
@@GreatLittleStories i see what you’re saying. I don’t understand why middle grey is referred to as perfect exposure. I think it should be considered “properly balanced exposure” and from that the photographer can work to manipulate the exposure create the image they want. Semantics really. This video though finally made everything clear. I’ve watched so many videos of people making no sense it’s unbelievable.
Good Tutorial ......
Glad you liked it. Thanks for your support Shaun!
I prefer kodak Portra (Fuji) has cyan cast When I was a working wedding & portrait photographer kodak portra was my favourite film my metering method incident light for colour and reflected light for black and white
Interesting. Thanks for sharing with us! Do you still shoot with kodak portra today?
I generally can guess my exposure pretty spot on but I just got one of those tiny Sekonic Twinmates which works great, before that I would use my phone to get a good baseline reading.
That's awesome to hear! Do you use an app on your phone?
@@TheSlantedLens yep, on Android the LightMeter app works really well. A real meter is faster but the phone works well as a matrix type meter in really tricky lighting
Nice, always good to have different options! Especially for those on a budget, does it cost any money?
It's a few dollars for the full version, it's worth it since it will save your ISO setting if you do
You can try the Photo Friend App for Android. It lets you meter a scene and then select a small section of the scene for spot metering. It provides a very fast and effective way to decide your settings.
6:26 - "You can move that stand around..." Lol! 😅
Thanks for watching and keep on clickin!
Couldn't you also use a digital camera to meter for you? Then adjust your film camera to similar settings?
Yes, that was included in the video.
Well for film...................From the first photographs to the first use of a light meter Photographic film masters got great shots.
What did they know (maybe an earlier version of the sunny 16 rule) that modern photographers have no clue of. I guess that's why they were masters.
They were certainly a lot more patient!
A question for anyone out there. Could you just shoot at box speed use your exposer compensation dial to over/under expose as you wish then develop normally to get similar results as pushing or pulling film?
Pushing film means that you are saying that it is more sensitive to light than it is. So you process it longer to get a properly exposed negative. It doesn't matter how you tell the camera that you are going to underexpose it as long that the camera meter is set correctly to underexpose the film. And yes, you can use the exposer compensation dial.
@@TheSlantedLens Thanks a lot for your reply. I am recently getting back into film. It can be a bit confusing about pushing and pulling film which also relates to the amount time one processes the negative. As oppose to overexposing/underexposing the negative. A lot people on TH-cam fail to make that distinction making it a bit confusing to newbies. Thanks again!
I mostly shoot slide films I must work on what I want to expose and because of the narrow exposure slide film has compared to the more tolerant c41 I don't have the luxury you did when taking those photos!
With my black and white rolls i overexpose half a stop.
I would love to have your "cold" weather now, Sweden has entered its cold and dark season and we will not see any of your lovely California light until March/April ish time!
I meter using my dslr on the dumb cameras.
Nice, we don't normally shoot with slide films, but that's exciting. Wow, that sounds really dark and cold. Well, if you ever need a little bit more sun you are always welcome to join us here!
Love the TSL, and i'm subscribed! Question, @ 5:32 if shooting 1/2 the box speed of ASA 400, on digital ISO 200, isn't that underexposing 1 stop for a denser neg?
That would be overexposing for a denser negative.
@@TheSlantedLens Just read on Richard Photo Lab page. Now it makes sense. Thanks!
keep F4 and 1/500 and a portra 400 ( outside it work for 90% )
Do you mean in the shade or just outside in general?
in general because overexpose 5 step more work again.
I shoot a lot of scenic [green] and old buildings [gray/brown]. I prefer iso 200 or even 100 . Is Fugi iso 100 a good film to use or are there better ? Thanks ! (I live out west)
Fuji is good when you want to accentuate blues and greens.
@@TheSlantedLens How about the browns as in an old barn ?
2 Things. I thought you were going to show the model's link to her instagram so we could contact her.
Secondly, I find it interesting that you didn't include a known value, like a gray card, to help determine the accuracy of your exposures. You could measure the value in post and see how close you got, as well as using the camera zoomed into see only it, to use the camera meter. If you are going to carry a second camera, it is just as much work to carry a gray card or even one of the folding gray cards.
My go to method of metering is a hand held light/flash meter.
Sorry about that. We included her instagram handle in the video, but here is the link: instagram.com/kristinammarie Thanks for sharing your thoughts on using a gray card.
hello!! I have a Yashica Fx3, that shows a green dot 🟢 when exposure is correct. I have read that it is better to overexpose one step ➕️. My yashica has center weight meter. I also have read that you should point towards a shadow, so that this 🟢 appears. But.. what happens when everything in the frame is very bright and no shadows? where should I point my meter? Should I underexposed my meter if I point towards a sunny area? I dont understand how to meter to have a good exposure. Hope someone can help me
If the box speed is 400, shoot at 200. That is overexposing one stop which will open up the shadows. Then point your camera straight at the subject matter and use that meter reading. You may find this video helpful: th-cam.com/video/-uEZ0UBYKvg/w-d-xo.html
@@TheSlantedLens thanks. I use full manual camera, so I could also find this green dot for good exposure, then decrease two stops my aperture. So even if my subject is in shadow or in light the meter should be the same? I have seen the video you recomended, but doesnt explain what to do when you meter in shadows and there are no highlits, or you meter in shadows with a lot of highlighgts. This is where I found the problem, I have reed to meter in shadows, but shadows can be all around my frame, or shadows can be only a small portion of my frame with different contrasts...
A parallel universe without digital photography...
just a trip down memory lane.
Video starts @ 02:02
Tq
Thank you! Do you shoot in film?
What scanner do you recommend for film
We send ours to a lab to be scanned. Check with your local photo lab.
Does this scale only work for film or does it have a translation for digital?
No, those are basic laws of light that can be used to dial in a digital camera as well!
Why has not you used a Hasselblad Quick Coupler?
Why do not use a 30 cm cable release?
Why do not you use three A12 backs?
Why do you shoot with a Macro lens?
We shoot with what we own. Thanks for watching.
You can definitely use a hand-held light meter to take an ambient light reading without having to put the meter next to your subject, pointed toward the camera. Wouldn't you want to meter the ambient light of your scene by holding the meter next to the camera, pointed at your subject? Using the meter next to your subject, is taking an incident light reading that you might do when trying to determine optimal flash power output, not necessarily when metering ambient light of the scene. Metering ambient light of the scene with a hand-held meter you would want to include the reflected light off your subject wouldn't you? Especially in the case of your video where your model had a very bright white dress on.
Great point. Thanks for sharing that with us.
very general... interesting but why doesn't anyone ever show you go to read a light meter and merely just say overview stuff.... it's all not that simple but thanks /
You might like this video: th-cam.com/video/-uEZ0UBYKvg/w-d-xo.html
5:07 Digital camera's dont use film. He said to set iso from the Box speed of your film?
Yup, so in order to set it properly on the digital camera, we half the ISO from the film stock. We were shooting on ISO 400 Film Stock, so set the ISO of the digital to 200 in order to get an accurate image. Does that make sense?
My take on the one stop difference is because most digital cameras frankly exaggerate their ISO’s. On my Fuji X-T1 I found it to be about two stops off from the Sunny 16 rule. Of course Fuji exaggerates more than most.
I like your content but you should slow down a bit.
I doubt it you are right.
I deny the correctness of the rule of Sunny 16.
Which aperture in the snow and on the beach in the summer?
My carton Agfa Berlin two ruler exposure meter made in 1920 is better.
Of course the light meter is better than the sunny 16 rule. Yet the sunny 16 rule is universal and everyone learns that.
Holy Shit that is an attractive woman!
I hear that the light meters for slide film suck, but for 35mm can be trusted.
For print film the exposure can be off by a stop or two and you won't have a problem. But with slide film if you are off a stop your image is not good. So people bracket and use a light meter to get as close as they can.
Coming from digital cameras, this is soooo weird
Maybe you will have a chance to try film one day.
@ 6:29 ILLUMINATI ( light & color meter, Trianglular-shaped )
iLLuminati Confirmed ? ! LOLzzz
Just a light meter! A really good one though!
I would do anything for a woman like that.
Why do people still want to shoot with film these days? It is like why some people enjoy blacksmithing as a hobby?
Many reasons! I'd imagine shooting with film is more fun than blacksmithing, but to each his own! We welcome blacksmiths and all.
You have to had shot on film before and be a passionate photographer in order to truly understand. Its not so much the result, but the process itself. And yes its expensive these days so I can understand why to the average person it wouldn't make sense.
We know there are many different reasons why some people choose film, but we really appreciate hearing it directly from film photographers!
@@TheSlantedLens Thanks for all your tutorials btw. All invaluable content!
I doubt it you are right.
I deny the correctness of the rule of Sunny 16.
Which aperture in the snow and on the beach in the summer?
My carton Agfa Berlin two ruler exposure meter made in 1920 is better.
Of course the light meter is better than the sunny 16 rule. Yet the sunny 16 rule is universal and everyone learns that.