The EASIEST way to Push/Pull Film!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ย. 2019
- Today we'll be talking about how the easiest way to push and pull your 35mm film. Pushing film is a very simple process but when first starting out it can be very confusing, so hopefully this video can clear up any questions! Pushing film works best with color or black and white film, I would generally refrain from pushing slide film as the exposure latitude is very slim! Hope you all enjoy this video!!
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And also worth mention that if you push/pull you need to shoot the whole roll of film on that ISO setting.
If you are actually pulling the development, yes you're definitely right. But I do the same, I always rate TriX or Portra lower then the actual box speed, which is basically a compensation for not metering for the shadows. And I do change the iso or exposure comp to bracket a shot that I really like. So when you don't pull the development, you can change your setting per frame.
🧐 actually, this is not always true...
personally i develop my b+w using a semi-stand process with a lower dilution ratio. in spite of the pervasive thinking on this subject, this method of development doesn't require that you change development times or shoot the whole roll at the same ASA/ISO setting to get consistent results.
✨🎞️📷
So you cant use compensation?
Thank you!
I would say this isn’t true I change my iso multiple times throughout shoots
I think it will be easier to digest by understanding the exposure triangle. Push to higher ISO = Underexposed and Pulling to lower ISO = Overexposed. Higher ISO allows a faster shutter speed/ smaller aperture setting. Lower ISO allows slower shutter speed/larger aperture. Besides the desire of shooting in particular shutter speed, using expired film or want to create a unique film look ( grains and tone) can also be the reason for doing pulling or pushing in film photography.
Hey man, great video again. But you forgot to mention one very important thing about pushing. The film is obviously not as sensitive as a film that is two stops more sensitive. And this will express itself in the low brightness regions like the darks and shadows. Those were simply not exposed enough to pull detail out of it. Dark stays dark. So generally it creates a much more contrasty look. And this is why pushing is not "seeing" in the dark. We're actually pulling detail from the mids en highlights. A side effect of film that is not being exposed correctly is grain, which can also be a desired effect like the contrasty look.
Love your videos! Most people on youtube love to hear their own voices past the point of overkill. You on the other hand get to the point with no bs or filler...keep the videos coming!
Honestly love your content. I'm just getting into it and this is saving me so much stress. Thanks man appreciating this channel
I disagree that pulling isn't needed. If you're shooting high contrast scenes and you don't want the high contrast then pull. If you need that tiny bit extra dynamic range, pull. If you want less grain, pull.
I always pull Pan F+ 50 by a stop to get beautiful tonality and no grain for example
James Lane I’ve yet to try that! Thank you for this comment, I’ll be experimenting more in the future
if I need deep sky and white cloud,pull or push?
Can I just say, I'm extremely grateful for you. You've taught me so much about film and you are so good at simplifying things, THANK YOU.
Its also useful if you have an old film. I once had a very very old roll of Kodak TMAX 1600 that after a bit of consideration and advice from my dad I pulled down to 800. Only 1 stop overexposure but it turned out great.
Also if you are developing your own film yourself all you need to do is develop as the speed you pushed/pulled to according the the development times given for the developer.
Pulling film usually has the effect of decreasing the appearance of grain, pushing increases it.
Man you went for the easiest way to describe this and you nailed it. Just discovered your channel today. Thanks a lot! Brand new to 35mm photography. Came from video background started on Hi-8. Picked up a Pentax K1000
I watched so many videos on pushing/pulling and this was the only one I understood, thank you so much!!
I just got a roll of TriX pan 400 back from lab that had expired in 02/2000. I metered it at 100 and had in developed at normal settings. It all came out very well.
Testing out a roll pushed led me to only want to shoot that film pushed. I only want to shoot Tri-X at 800 or 1600 now. Film is such a great journey.
Thank you man! Finally someone to explain what this means and why people do it.
I personally started experimenting with exposing one roll of film to different ISO values, and developing at box speed. I suggest you try it, you might have some nice surprises!
Do you use a compensation dial in conjunction with changing the ISO value?
Curious! Any way to see your results?
It depends. Depends on what you're shooting and the mode you're in. If I do this in manual all it does is throw off the meter. If you do this in a programmed/auto mode on certain cameras it can give you more compensation between stops kind of like how a modern camera has access to 0.3 exposure values. But again it depends on the camera and it's automatic compensation.
I try not to push film unless I have to. I try to have the right speed film for the shoot. I have more slow speed film like 100 or 125 . Some 400 and a roll or two of 3200. When I worked as a photographer I usually carried two cameras. One loaded with 125 speed B&W, the other with 400 B&W or Ektachrome slide film usually 100 speed. I also had a third backup camera that was full manual only.loaded with the primary film I needed for the shoot. Usually 125 speed. Only a few shoots did I need the 3200 speed film as my primary. Sometimes I went slower at 25 speed. But I didn’t pull the film. I used Agfa 25 at the time. You use that film for the extra fine grain. It has great tonal range and makes extra large prints. Poster size or even mural size pictures. It’s not just the speed and versatility but the grain. The faster the film the more grain. Sometimes you want a grainy effect. I didn’t worry about developing for contrast. I can control that post production with the photo paper uses. Paper like film is rated. But for contrast. The lower the number the lower the contrast. You also have multi-contrast paper that uses filters on the enlarger to adjust the contrast. So unless you want grain use the slowest speed film you can for the photo shoot.
Thanks man 😍 I needed a practical explanation
Nice content, man! I'm learning also from the comments, haha! Your videos are a very good starting point for beginners to get the hang of many film photography concepts. Thanks!
Best video on this. Thank you
I think the one thing I was hung up on before watching this is that you gotta tell your developer that you pushed or pulled your film. That makes a LOT more sense now!
Awesome! Am planning to get a film camera but one step at a time haha ... if that day comes, i'll rewatch all your videos.
Thanks man, keep this videos coming.
Great explanation. Can't wait to try pushing my 400d cinestill
BIG HELP!!! THANK YOU SOMUCH!
I generally pull HP5 by a stop in the studio, it gives me easier (flat) negatives to work with in the darkroom. You can always add contrast back to a scan or print in post.
Super helpful, thanks!
This was a great explanation of pushing and pulling film!
Just pushed a roll of Ektar by 2 stops. I'm excited to see the results
You explained it well!!!
Love your videos! I’m learning so much just from watching your videos. I was just wondering where do you buy your films??
his helped alot thanks dude
Good explanation. One thing though-you’ll want to consider pulling your film if you overexpose transparency film by as little as one stop given it’s decreased exposure latitude vs color print film, especially in the highlights.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
This is great! Thanks for this
Clutch needed to watch this right about now
I learning a lot with you tnanks
Editing on a new level! I see you 👀
.
Would’ve been funny if you actually pushed and pulled film.
Love your channel mate.
What’s your favorite film to push?! 🎞
KingJvpes Tri-X!
Ilford HP5
Ilford HP5 🤟🏽
Love this. Thanks for explaining it for everyone. I shoot all my Portra 400 pushed one stop.
Hey King Jvpes,
Nice video.
I had a question for you. I recently shot a roll of Fujifilm C200 which had expired around 2 years ago at 250 ISO, effectively underexposing it instead of overexposing it (by using the half a stop overexposure rule), by mistake. If I get it processed normally without any suitable adjustment during development, what do you think the results might turn out to be?
Or how should I ask the lab to process the roll so that the end result is not a wasted effort?
Any input would be nice to learn since I am completely new to the pushing/pulling side of film photography.
Cheers!
@kingjypes I'd love you to get hold of some infrared film, shoot it and develop it. Most older film SLR's will have special marks on the focus scale on the lens indicating the "correction" you need to apply when focusing. This is because infrared light focuses at a different focal point than visible light so you will see an out of focus image in camera but it will be in focus when developed as you only captured the IR light. Try shooting trees and people!
Great video man! I have a question on this. What if different frames on a film roll has been set to different ISO values. Do you need to tell the developer to develop the roll as the box ISO or something else to compensate for each photo?
Thanks for sharing.
Good vid!
thank you!!!!
I think I just found the Peter McKinnon of film photography 🙌🏼😅 a question: why do people push film to under expose? Why don’t you just shoot 400 stock on 400 iso/asa and then reduce the exposure compensation by 1 stop on your Minolta x700? Film newbie here and would appreciate the advice!
Question, one you push it two stops do you have to develop the film like a lets say 1,600 iso film? This question because I develop my bw film myself at home. Thanks Erik
Excellent! Ty
These videos are so helpful omg. So, at the end when you talk about the fact that you shoot your colour film overexposed by one stop (eg. porta 400 shot at 200 iso), this isn't pulled because you still get it developed at 400? Whereas if you got that same film developed at 200 then it would be pulled... That's right isn't it?
I've read about people taking advantage of Portra 800's wide exposure latitude by shooting at 400, then _pushing_ one stop in development. I'm gonna try this. I can attest to Portra800's wide latitude with some flash photos I was probably overexposed by a couple stops and some detail was lost in the highlights but overall they came out beautifully saturated
Flary Fox shoot 800 film at 400 it will be overexpose by 1 stop and you want to push it to make it brighter?
Naphon Tonitiwong Portra 800 has that wide a latitude and loves overexposure.
Great video!!!
That's nice. You push to 1600 and later what do you do with the shutter speed? You have to lower it down? Thank you
You’re the man
Thank you!
So I have an Ilford fp4 plus (B&W ISO 125) and that ISO for me is so low I want to get more light into it, so I should shoot it like 50 Iso right? So my camera thinks the film is even less sensitive and my light meter guides me to overexpose, and when developed it'll have more light. In a nutshell if I want to simulate a more sensitive film for lower light conditions, I should pull to a lower ISO, and if I want to simulate a less sensitive film for conditions with a lot of light, push to a higher ISO right?
Or am I dumb and should I do the complete opposite?
Thank you for the video, but with some examples it'd be much easier to understand
Good video!! Thanks for the info. New in film so just another question to make sure of the process. While overexposing for example Portra 400 to 200, you set up your external light meter for ISO 200 and use that seetings in the camera? Thanks !
Correct. Alternatively, you can leave it at 400 and set the exposure compensation dial (the thing that goes like -2, -1, 0, +1, +2) to +1. It's then overexposing by one stop, just as if you had put the ISO on 200. Same thing, just without the math.
Would really love if you could do this video again but with examples to show what the different levels of push/pull look like.
Another reason to push is to get faster shutter speeds in low light situations. And not have to use your lens wide open
Hey man, could you please explain a little bit more? I'm just starting to shoot my film at night!
@@issafilme well pushing your film will trick your meter to think there is more light available therefore you would be able to shoot at faster shutter speed to avoid motion blur. I recommend pushing if you ar shooting concerts or events. Also your developing time will change depending on how many stops you push your film.
@@crwn_munkz this made me even more confused... I thought that if you set to 1600 this is a setting where its more sensible to light than 400. So why does the camera underexposes, why does the camera think there's more light available with such high ISO where it's used for night shots? Not bashing your comment, i'm honestly curious and confused
@@MrCh3 Exactly what i was thinking
@@MrCh3 Setting your iso higher makes your camera assume you're using a more light sensitive film. Byou're not. Therefore with the faster shutter speed. Not enough light is let in. And the resulting images are underexposed.
Helpful video. I am still what to do with my camera that does not have manual ISO control. It auto reads DX coding on canisters. I have seen ways of “hacking” the DX coding on the canister itself. But what if I just shoot all my photos underexposed per my camera’s light meter? Isn’t that the same effect? Does shooting at -2EV in my camera allow me to push +2 in developing without changing my ISO setting in camera?
Hi I’m just getting into film and I was wondering when you push film by one stop do you also need to adjust the shutter speed & aperture and push it by one stop along with the ISO? Or just the ISO? I’m going to start experimenting with expired film 5-10 years old
Enjoyed that, thanks mate. Why all the thumbs down???
Thanks for the info! I’m still fresh in film and this will help with an evening photo walk this weekend.
Great video thanks
I’m still struggling to understand this
If you need more light say, why not just set the shutter speed slower? The metre will say you’re over exposing but is that not exactly what happens by tricking the camera to think it has a different iso film, then using a slower shutter to bring the metre up?
Or if you need a faster shutter why not just use a faster shutter and know that the shots going to be underexposed. Just the same result as pushing anyway right?
It seem like over or under exposing your photo then in the developing stage, fixing this..is what creates the look? Not tricking the camera into what iso it uses.
I’m guessing it’s so you can use the metre correctly? Even though the shot will not be properly exposed
Confusing! 😅
I don't seem to see many comments associated with compensation dials... should we develop at anything else than box speed if we add/subtract one, or two more stops of light? (for reference I use an Olympus OM-2n)
I'd like to manipulate the exposure with my light meter using the aperature and shutter speed. To simulate pushing, do I move my meter pointer in the negative direction or positive?
Pulling is useful in high contrast situations for instance if you are talking a photo inside by a window and want the outside also to not be blown out
Something you should also keep in mind if its your first time pushing film make sure you check in with your local camera shop before hand because they might not be able to push your type of film in the developing process. I was about to try it with my Cinestill 800t but fortunately I called them first to get their input and they informed me they could only push black and white due to technical constraints. So moral of the story: Give your developer a heads up or you might end up with some Extremely over/underexposed photos!
u mean every single film has different developing process
@@GiangHoang88888 well yes but that wasn’t what I was referring to. I just meant that not every developers machines can develop pushed film.
Great video. I really enjoy your videos they are so helpful and have great information. I've been shooting with UltraMax 400. I am wondering if it ok to push it to 1600 or 800? Did you try it out yourself?
i've pushed ultramax to 800 with great results!
@@KingJvpes I will have to try it out. Thanks bro! I might even try 1600 closer to the winter time.
when you do pull your film, do you have to let the developers know as well ?
keep up the good videos , I love the content !
Hey so when you mention always shooting portra 400 at 200 do you have the lab develop the film at 400 or 200. If at normal can you plz explain why 🙏🏽✌🏽
good stuff
I am wondering if it makes a noticeable difference if you have your film pushed during development or if you just raise the exposure in Lightroom for example? I always geht the Scans back from the lab as a .tiff file which has a lot of latitude to work with, so I could easily raise the exposure by one stop and end up with the same result?!
One more reason to push - the most important for me: I love the extra visible grain structure
Any shops in the city you recommend for getting film developed?
I am about to shoot my first roll of film, I now understand the benefits of pushing and pulling, I noticed that my local lab charges extra to push the film while processing, was just wondering, do people push and pull on the same roll of film? im wondering if the lab would be able to know which exposures to push, which to pull, and which to just process as would be normal?
Great video. When you pull film IE shoot 400 film at 200 ISO do you need to inform your developer you made that adjustment?
I think he said one stop was not necessary to worry about that.
when u overexposed from 400 to 200 iso , should u tell to the dev lamp that u overexposed or u just developing ur negs on 400 iso ? thanks :)
The first time I pushed film, a Neopan Acros 100, I forgot to inform the developer that I pushed 2 stops. The results were very underexposed. Post processing with LR helped bring out the highlights and shadows but also resulted in very grainy pictures
Hello, I'm not sure if this has been asked.. what is the difference between pushing/pulling a roll of film and making sure the developer knows that VS selecting a roll with the desired ISO?
@kingjvpes if using an external light meter, should you set your iso to base step or set your iso to pushed stop?
Thanks for the explanation. When you pull your Portra 400 to 200, do you tell your developer to pull it 1 stop, or do you have them develop it at box speed?
Tell them to pull it, write -1 on the roll
Hey, if I am developing my film myself and I push my iso, how best do you think I can go about it when developing
hi sir! so my film camera can only do asa/iso 400 but the film i want to use is iso 800, what should i do/change? :)
So.. this setting for your camera meter to 1600 for +2 stops of 400 speed film is only if you’re shooting in Aperture Priority (A) mode correct? If you were shooting manual with 400 speed film pushed to 1600 you’d need to set your shutter speed to 1/2000 for sunny 16 correct? And if you were only shooting sunny 16 in manual mode, I’m guessing it would be irrelevant what your cameras iso meter was set to?
Wish you would explain how to develop pushed/pulled color film
The same way as normal except you leave it in the developer longer.
Check the manufacture TechSheets for the actual figures.
so is it not okay that I have been switching the iso between pictures? I'm new to film photography and I've only shot one roll of Kodak Ultramax 400. I'm not really sure how to meter and I've been using my phone to do it, but I'm still pretty confused on when you can and can't change your iso and what that actually does
Should I be pushing a BW film? Shooting HP5 400 on a Manual SLR. Or can I just continue on with my metering and shoot?
If I push the film by two stops do I have to leave it at that for the remainder of the roll or can I go back and forth between stops?
Can you change your ISO mid roll or will that mess up the whole film strip?
Is it possible to adjust the iso within one single roll. Like one picture i expose pushed 2× then going back to 1× the next picture?
If I shoot a Superia 200 Film at 100 Iso (pull/overexposing it) do I need to tell the Lab about it? Or does this only apply for pushing film?
How do I set my meter if I overexpose by 1 stop? Let’s say i set my asa on my camera at 200 for a ultramax400/portra 400. Should i set my meter at 800? Not planning to pull it.
might be a stupid question but when pushing/pulling do you adjust the shutter speed to whatever you are setting the iso to or do you keep shutter speed true to the films iso. Also, if you adjust the shutter speed of the camera, do you counter that by adjusting the aperture or are you all good?
Easiest way is to just adjust the ISO to "trick" the camera's light meter. Then meter as normal for that new ISO. So same shutter speed that you'd use on that light for that ISO and aperture.
I had to comeback to this one. I just shot a roll of Porta 400 behind Gold 200 without adjusting my ISO or Shutter. Ok one stop is no biggie. I’ll process it like regular
Good lookin our 🙏
wait okay so what if you want to get that overxposed look for portra since everyone says it looks better wouldnt it just be easier to set you aperture and shutter speed to a setting where it would just cause that effect instead of having to spend extra time developing???
Can you push/pull on the same roll? Basically, some shots will be in basic 400 and others in a mix of 200 & 800. Is that okay?
I'm a fan of your vids!
After 'pulling from 400 to 200, do I tell the developer guys? Or does my Portra get developed as if it was shot at 400?
Did you ever get this question answered?
@@dylanrummel9832 hey thanks for the nod to my question...
...'if' there was a reply, I missed it. Ive got a colot kit for self development now... so it'll be fun to see what comes out.
do you have a suggestion about 200vrs400 development?
You've got to tell your lab.
Unless you're adjusting because it's expired, but then that's not really pushing.
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i have a question.. if im shooting a roll of film and i do push and pull at the same time in the same roll how would i tell the developer then? Because there will be some shots that are undexposed and others are overexposed.
I have a question. Can I also only push one picture and then go back to let‘s say my normal 200 ISO because I shoot in other lightning? And would I also have to mention it to my developer?