Tearing My Engine Open to Find the TICKING THAT WON'T STOP! Chevy 4.3 Gen V.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video we are working on my Mechanic Van to dig into it until we find what is causing the engine ticking. You can probably tell from the thumbnail, we found it. @AdeptApe on Venmo or AdeptApe@yahoo.com on PayPal for donations, thank you so much for supporting the channel!
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Thanks for watching. Next we have to complete the disassembly and then put it all back together, hopefully better than how it was running. If you wanted to help pay for parts, @AdeptApe on Venmo or AdeptApe@yahoo.com on PayPal for donations, thank you so much for supporting the channel! If not, just watching, sharing and clicking the like button helps. Thanks for watching.
They loosen in the direction of normal rotation as a general rule. This is so they will tighten as the engine runs.
Fuel pressure is about 900 psi at idle, max of approximately 5000 psi at wide open. No, the high-pressure lines are not re-useable.
The fuel lines when you tighten them are pretty much good and tight. On the head bolts, on the V8s anyway, center out. 59 ft lbs, plus 90° plus 60° EXCEPT for the Alan head bolt that one is 59 plus 90° plus 40°. Rockers are 22 ft lbs and you don’t “have” to rotate the motor to torque them either. The lifter tray bolts are 8 ft lbs too
While this goes without saying, do it right with first quality parts.
Put a hog ass cam in it
Time to do a cat engine swap ??
Does cat have a motor that would fit?
I think you could fit a skid steer engine in there but the smallest that I know of that cat makes is a c0.5 it’s a industrial engine used in lawn mowers or light towers and some other stuff but yes you can if you have the will you could make a c15 fit but no room in the back I’m putting a 3116 in my 97 ram 2500hd
@@unclechris3958the 2.2 is decent power and probably could fit!
Awwww buddy, this would be cool idea. Think he could get 60 mpg out of the van? lol
C 3.8 and send it.
we all knew that goat was about to make an appearance :)
Hi Josh love your content and have watched all your uploads! I just want to share this:The best mobile diesel mechanic I know drives a van ; so you are a true master in my book! p.s. GM engineering is terrible so much so you have to wonder if some of it is intentional.
This video should be sponsored by Timex.
Best way to remember which way the clutch fan comes off, is it always loosens the way the fan turns.
That's a good way to not overthink it. Which I always do and screw myself lol
YOU ARE GOING TO DO BOTH SIDES I HOPE
the lifter trays are meant to hold the lifters... after rockers/push rods are out rotate the engine 360 and the tray will catch them
It was JUST like a ticking time bomb.
Being a retired heavy equipment mechanic I hated working one my own stuff. I was twice as picky and twice the perfectionist when it came to my own. I hated it I didn’t want my stuff to breakdown cause I thought it made me look bad.
YES, so incredibly true and frustrating!!!!!!!!!!
I had the opposite problem
Quick fix onto the next job hated downtime
I learned with time tho that doesn’t always work🤣
I'm the same way. I want everything routed perfectly. Nice orderly placed wires and looms. Everything cleaned nicely- ill even touch the paint up on what I'm working on to make things look almost new. Ill even take the time to improve the factory set-up if I can improve on it to extend longevity. It ends up taking unnecessarily longer, but I typically never have to revisit the repair again. 😊
@@giggiddy Wow I thought I was bad. I replace the clamps/connectors that look bent or dirty, all new Zipties on the hoses/harness's, etc.
I've had people make fun of my jobs, then those same people brought others over to show them how "new" my 20+ yr old car is.
I'm a heavy equipment mechanic for a company i used to be a truck mechanic before that auto mechanic now they make me work on every service tecs service truck. I definitely understand you wanting things to be perfect.
Your new style videos are excellent. Doing a great job. Fan for years. Keep up the hard work!
@AdeptApe Couple of things to note... The roller on the lifter most likely failed because the trunion bearings are on the way out. The trunion bearings on the rockers are notorious for failing. There are replacement trunion bearing kits to repair them all with upgraded needle bearings. I recommend replacing all the trunions on the rockers and not just the failed one. Also, the head bolts are one time use due to them being torque to yield - order a new set of head bolts from summit racing. I would also go with an OEM ac/delco head gasket for that engine. The new head bolts will also have the thread lock/sealant already applied. Also... since that block is based on the LS platform... look at the cam bearings... they should still be shiny... if they look dingy/rough... you'll be learning how to pull an engine lol. While it is apart... take the time to clean and replace the valve seals... they are easy to do... they are a hat design. Also while the valves are out for seal job... re lap all the valves to the seats before reassembly. The lifter trays are also one time use and should be replaced. If you re use lifter trays you risk a lifter rotating and wiping out the cam. Enjoy!
Came here to say almost exactly this. I would however say to do the upgraded brass trunion kit over new roller bearings, replace the exhaust manifold bolts with new high quality ones as they pop the heads off very quickly. I would also point out that you can eliminate that useless heat sink (or baffle) in the intake tube by putting a freeze plug or solid plug of some kind into the opening and tightening the clamp. Only other thing to maybe consider would be an oil catch can kit to avoid having to deal with the dirty valve issues in 20K miles.
can also replace them with bushings
Excellent info, thank you for sharing, this will greatly help the people doing this type of engine. Jim in Oregon
I have heard these AFM systems have an issue with the oil pump slightly separating causing lower pressure, typically resulting in failed lifters. Would this seem to be one of those cases or is that typically just V8 models?
@@jaredrobbins6277not sure about the oil pump itself or the separation issue. I know previous models had issues with the o ring where the pickup meets the pump and an issue with the high pressure bypass getting galled and stuck open. I can say this is not a DOD motor though. You would instantly recognize one of those lifters even if you had never seen one before. Don’t think it would work properly anyway being a V6.
It killed me with laughter when you duplicated the ticking noise with the screw driver! After contorting your body and working on unfamiliar parts your rightfully starting to go crazy! Welcome to light duty
Light duty is such a nightmare. Half the pay for twice the work and all that work is SO MUCH worse.
Regarding the markings on the Multi-V-belts:
6PK1972 means 6 ribs (6PK), 1972 is the length of the belt in mm.
Thanks for taking us with you on your repair journey. :)
Where are the people that called me an idiot because I said it’s a lifter?
Wild.
They are eating crow right now.
Quite litteraly the most common failure on the 4.3 lol
Your old lady just left my place.
@@Failure_Is_An_Option u havent felt the touch of a women in years 🤣
Why would someone call you an idiot for that? Biggest problem with the LS engine.
Back in 1977 there was an old green Chevy van at work. The guy that drove it had worked there a long time. The van used quite a bit of oil but ran well. When the engine started clicking at a stoplight, he would lift up the inside engine cover and put oil in the engine until it stopped clicking. The light would turn green and away we go. He said he had been doing this for several years. 😊
Take off: in order
Bumper, grill, radiator upper front structure,
Enjoy a vast amount of work room
Put on: front structure, radiator grill bumper
All new stuff is junk. Gone are the days of getting 350k miles and just changing alternators and starters.
my .02 as a 15yr GM tech. cut the oil filter open. if its extremely glittery i would consider replacing the engine unless youre prepared to remove the engine and do a complete deep cleaning of metal. if the filter isnt horrible(expect some metal) then the engine need a cam, all lifters, fuel pump follower, lifter trays, and an oil pump along with the little things like fuel lines and gaskets. these cam and lifters dont require a break in but i tell people to return after 1 tank of fuel for me to change the oil and filter again.
He cut open a filter in a previous video and found no metal.
He cut the oil filter open in a previous video
So what I have been wondering after seeing a video of a GM 6.2 having needle bearings spit out of one or more rocker arm assemblies and ruin the engine with metal as some needle pieces found their way into the oil pump and made a nice mess of things and gather its a theme with that engine at least within some years anyway, is that also a common theme across the whole line of GM engines including the newer 6.6 L8T engine ?, another words are they all ticking time bombs. Never mind this mess with whatever is causing the roller on the lifter to degrade wiping out the cam and seems to be an issue with some Ford engines such as the 7.3 in earlier production so certainly not exclusive to GM at all.
Three words for your bloqn up engine Hog ass cam
@@charlesb4267 Honestly the biggest issue is oil starvation. Newer engines burn more oil, from factory, and must be topped off regularly with GM dexos spec (non dexos burns even faster). The maintenance interval on the GM 6.6 in Isuzu trucks is 7500mi for “ordinary” conditions, and 3000mi for “severe” conditions. “Severe” conditions include dusty environment, frequent short trips, high idle times, towing, etc, basically everything you actually use a commercial/vocational truck for. Even so, it’s common for me to see units under “severe” duty getting 7000mi or even 10000mi oil change intervals. I’ve even seen 12 or 15k miles before changes. People wear these out, abuse and neglect.
When I see videos like this, I'm reminded how happy that I went heavy equipment. Yes, it can be tight quarters and awkward at times, but at least everything is designed to come apart with minimal drama.
Gosh yes. I would rather work on a heavy truck any day over a four wheeler held together with adhesive and plastic clips
From a Heavy mechanic that also does light duty I'm sorry your first light duty job was engine work in a van.Definitly a Phone in sick job!
After being a heavy diesel tech during the day, working on cars is always entertaining. In the most infuriating way 😂
Never doubt Josh’s paranoia.
He can hear dead people. lol!!!
Keep up the good work!!!
Yeah, but when he can see dead people is when you really need to worry about him!
It's hard to change the cam without pulling the oil pan and oil pump. Make sure you pull the high pressure fuel pump and it's lifter before you pull the cam.
You cant change the cam without pulling the oil pump and oil pan on these.
Hey brother.
I regularly work on the big brothers (LSx, LTx) to these GM V6 (I work on med/hvy, lots of GM). Sorry to give bad news. The piston rings on these have very light tension/pressure against cylinder walls, less friction = better fuel econ, at expense of burning oil from factory. These engines will burn their entire oil cap away between “normal” svc interval oil changes if not topped off. Best practice is use “severe” svc interval, but almost no one does. I routinely (two or three a month) see the V8 versions of these engines where fleet “driver” never checks oil, comes in for engine MIL, DTCs for oil press sens and camshaft actuator (variable valve timing, electric over hydraulic oil pressure sys) performance, and its 8qt sys has only 3qts in the pan…
High odds this formerly fleet engine has only had its oil and filter changed at “normal”, or at normal +x%, intervals. High odds it’s been run until the oil had almost as much air as oil in the gallery, and they filled the oil, cleared the codes, and sold it off when it started making noise. For basically *everything* anyone ever uses them for, these engines are great if the oil is changed at the “severe” intervals, but junk after a few years of high interval (i.e. “normal” duty) oil changes. You said no abnormal metal in filter. Warranty procedure for everything as you’ve found it so far is replace camshaft, lifters (including fuel pump), cam bearings, oil pump (plus all one-time-use parts), and send it. Based on my experience, this is from oil starvation due to operator not checking and topping off oil, and extended service intervals; hate to say it, and I hate you’re going through this, but most of this engine probably isn’t far behind that lobe & lifter. My personal recommendation is get a reman’d long block and be done with it. Didn’t look like your van had an oil cooler, but if it does, replace that and its lines same time (oil cooler lines branch off from oil pan just above filter on V8, probably similar on V6), block warranty void unless cooler lines and cooler (if equipped) replaced same time, I think the flex plate to torque converter bolts can technically be reused with fresh threadlocking comp, but I always just replace them for peace of mind.
If you want to roll the dice on the block you have, I wish you absolutely the best of luck, I know starting your own biz and keeping everything running is tough, difficult & expensive. For that, obviously you need new torque-to-yield head bolts, but the high pressure fuel pump bolts are also single use, so are fuel lines, and pump bolts require cam be clocked correctly so no pressure on roller, there’s a depth gauge tool for that, but if it’s at TDC #1 it’s fine. Cam actuator valve (holds VVT sprocket to cam) is also TTY, in an extd svc interval engine it’s probably junk anyway (internal mesh filter, not serviceable, restricts camshaft actuator pressure). Manual states to use new exh man bolts, those frequently break and cause exhaust leaks, so I always use new ones with the updated high-temp threadlocking comp for those.
If you remove injectors, there’s a tool for that, looks like a bar with J-hooks that fit under the rails and pulls injectors and rail as an assy; the tool is to prevent damage to the head. If the injector bores get damaged from injector gouging its bore during removal, the head is scrap. Injector gaskets and clips are single use, there are specialty tools for the clips and gaskets at tip, but there are tricks if you don’t have those tools, send me a msg I’ll explain.
Either way, best of luck with this, bud. I’m sorry you got a turd, and I hope it doesn’t hold you back; hope it doesn’t put you underwater when you’ve just barely launched. Keep pounding!
commenting in the hopes that he reads your message. He already ordered parts so im betting he tries to patch it together (and maybe there's nothing to lose at this point) but I've learned to listen to guys that specialize. Maybe you guys can correspond in email or something where its easier to give more details
This is all great info and I have often wondered what causes all these lifter related issues that seem to plague modern pushrod engines. Improper lubrication is at the forefront of my hypothesis. Low viscosity oils used today, higher operating temps (207 degF thermostats), extended idling (vocational trucks idling ALL day everyday), no/low oil due to drivers who don't care to check oil regularly, extended service intervals, etc. I am sure there are random quality issues where parts are not to spec as well. Right oil in the right placed at the right time in the right quantity.
Just to add to the fire, those series engines tend to have leaks at the oil pickup tube where the O ring is entering the oil pump, they get flattened over time and leak, causing it to suck air and lose pressure.
@@joshspranger7041 Older generation, not this one. The GEN-V DI motors are different.
@@N-M424 These days, even “normal” engines are seeing a lot of formerly “racing” technologies implemented in them; fractured rods & mains, low friction rings, VVT, etc. All in the name of better efficiency (i.e. better fuel economy) while meeting ever stricter environmental restrictions. You mentioned correct oil; that’s why not only do you need correct viscosity, it also has to meet GM dexos specs, otherwise it burns off even faster than what I mentioned above. When oil starvation is found, warranty usually won’t pay for it. The customers (fleets) are demanding “efficiency” (lower fuel costs), and they’re getting it. The price is ruggedness/robustness and long-term reliability.
Damn Josh, that cam lobe and lifter were DESTROYED
While I'm there syndrome on all the other parts..... Better now than stuck in the snow at lake Ponderay...
lotta parts need to be replaced. And those fuel injector lines are one time use. even if if they weren't they should be replaced at this point. As others have suggested, subscription to all data or something of that nature would be a good investment. There's a lot of things to know and you don't know them
So…
Even if a part is NOT one time use.
You recommend replacing it😂
U must be a parts guy
You NEED to re evaluate your use of the word “need”
We bought a Dodge minivan and it got a noisy lifter. I bought a whole motor and had it shipped for less than buying parts to replace the cam. The new (used) motor had super low km and it's been running great since 2009
Even when I see adept ape working on a gas engine I’m like heck yea brother let’s goooo!!!!!
Hey Josh , I’m watching your video and saw that the nut that holds the fan clutch on , has little notches in it . I’ve noticed that usually means reverse threads , just like on an Acetylene bottle gauge , the gauge nut has reverse threads on it .
Do a C15 swap. Yes the hood and front of the van will need some minor modifications but you know that it must be done.
Better to use a Duramax.
@@michaelbenoit248 Perhaps but a CAT motor swap would be more entertaining.
They do make a small tool to help remove and install stretch belts. They are becoming more common across auto manufacturers. GM has been using them since about the 2014 model year for vehicles with a mechanical vacuum pump for the brakes, since those engines have direct injection, they don't produce enough vacuum for the brakes.
Sorry about the cam & lifters issues!, but you’ll get it sorted out & fixed in no time!
GM seems to avoid radiator drains, probably a cost cutting measure. I was doing some work on a GMC Sierra with the Duramax, rather than taking an ethylene glycol bath, i used a fluid extractor a few times as I disassembled things to "drain" it down. The few GM products I've worked on, it seems like hostile engineering is their game, I feel sorry for techs that have to work on them every day.
I worked in GM engineering while the DI engines were being developed and l believe the whole purpose for it was to make it very sophisticated so EV could swoop in and give everyone relief. In other words GM, like Ford Toyota Nissan etc were being played by our corrupt government. Politics played a hand to force EV on all of us. That's my opinion. ben/ michigan
OK Josh, I'm sorry to see what a mess your engine is in. To me it's sinister to build engines like that. It's like the throw away mentality of the 1970's. One time use, torque to yield and layers of peripherals stacked on top of each other tells me throw it out or trade it in. You have to be depressed. It's not a Gen 1, 4 bolt main 350. They'd go 1/2 million miles between rebuilds. You'll get I'm sure, please be patient with it so you don't blow a head gasket. ben/ michigan
Change everything new whilst you're down in there, I just got done changing all my harnesses on my T600 and thought to myself I better replace EVERYTHING I'm touching while I'm under here because I'm not doing this again (at least not for a while) so yeah make it new again
Yeah but who says new junk parts are better than what came from the factory?
@@nspro931bingo. Its worth considering these days
So when you get it back together there’s a priming process for the high pressure pump if not you can wipe the pump out - 1 with it ready to start, with a scanner look at the fuel pressure -2 throttle wide open (clear flood) crank the engine intell you get 200psi rail pressure, then step two again this time watch oil psi you want to see 40psi before allowing the engine to start.
Thanks for the videos
After watching you working your way into your into the engine, I now better understand why the Armish prefer horses 🤣
Pretty crazy wild man. Such a big difference from the bigger CAT engines. You were right. Definitely valve train component failure. Cheers Josh. 👍💪👊👍🔩🔧
is this engine a cut off LS 5.7? I devided 4.3 by 6 and them multiplied by 8 and got 5.7L
Yes. The 4.3 and 5.7 have been like that since at least as far back as the 90s that I'm aware of.
Those baffles are tuned to the air handling system for volumetric efficiency during full throttle events and decreased noise.
Great job, looking forward to Part 2.
Anxious to see what's involved in pulling that Cam.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHH
Those little boxes help keep the amount of vacuum in your intake more stable. And yes sometimes they do nothing,sometimes it'll give ya a weird check engine light.
Plenum chamber ?
I’m sorry for your loss. Just pull the engine and send it to machine shop.
On the V8 with those type lifters, they have updated without the needle bearings. I wonder if that Engine has the new updated lifters available. Grace and peace.
Welcome to the GM "lifter tick club". I'm sure you already found out the head bolts and fuel lines aren't reusable...
One saving grace, it didn't look like a " active fuel management" setup (that cancels cyl to save fuel) that has it's own set of problems and additional costs to adequately FIX (not factory repair) the problem. Seems like GM has had an ongoing problem with lifters for decades...
These direct injected gas systems are about 3,000 to I think 4,000 PSI and no, the fuel lines are not reuseable. Unless service information says otherwise, they are a one time use only. I also believe they are torque and torque angle as well.
It’s funny how people are saying to do crazy engine swaps or modify the engine for more this and that. It’s a work truck man. The only requirement of a work truck is to work and keep working day in, day out, all day, everyday.
I actually appreciate someone who has enough restraint to leave their work vehicle alone.
Thank you for saying this. Everyone keeps telling to change all these extra parts. I'm going to inspect and replace as few things as possible. I'm doing the cam, lifters, upgrading the lifter trunnions and that's about it. The engine ran great before and I'm not going to rebuild the whole engine for no reason.
Chevy 4.8 lifter tick, it was oil starvation because bad o ring on oil pump pickup. Changed at 85000, engine runs great with 292000 miles.
Those baffles are not junk. Company like General Motors doesn't spend money on things like that unless they are deemed necessary. They make living with that engine a lot easier. Quiet things down and smooth out airflow
General rule of thumb, things loosen in the direction they turn. Fans, lawnmower blade bolts, etc.... So they tighten during normal operation.
Bummer it took out the cam, who else thought it was a 5.3 and was like “wait where is the 4th cylinder on the bank he pulled the head off?” 😂
6pk1972
6 - ribs per belt
P - denotes metric size designation
K - automotive SAE J1459 standard
1972 - Length in millimetres
Stuff to quiet motor... Josh NOT caring about the consumer... engineers making it quieter for the occupants, the people who buy the cars. Why do I drive my 2018 Explorer long distance and not my older rigs? BIG reason, it's quieter...
If your business is going well this year....I would drop the $$ on a brand new Ram Charger and a nice cargo trailer.
Your fuel costs would be practically laughable (Ram Charger is 100% electric drivetrain with a V6 range extender)
You would have a built in generator, $7500 tax credit + 5 year depreciation on the truck and trailer for your taxes.
Truck is under warranty, you can focus on doing your heavy mechanic business.
I'd look at how much you spend on fuel + maintenance on a high mileage van.
With electric only charging at home, you could get away with spending almost no money on gas, in fact you would have to be careful not to put too much in as it would get stale....
Just a few thoughts for a mobile business.
Hi 👋🏻 Josh. Lovin the new you 😊 Great pull down to find the clicking 🤣 🏴
I always replace DexCool with a thorough flush and then Cat DEAC. Never have it gunk up that way like DexCool can/will, and DEAC is compatible with rubber hoses and aluminum components.
Vans are great until you have to work on them. Then they become the largest POS ever designed
What is keeping you from getting a heavy duty service truck, with a compressor/welder/crane?
Not sure why but silverado's you got a 80% chance its just the lifter. Every van I've done lifter has turned in the tray and mushroomed at the bottom and ate the camshaft. Only had very few turn on the trucks
Know your pain up in nwt working on ford f350 have to remove cab just to change HP fuel pump. All bolts for cab broke pain in the butt . HD tech working on ford junk .nice vid.
You have found one of many reasons between GM and Ford I will always take the Ford with its problems.
Should of got a chevy van with a 6.0 v8 better... race van. LS swap it
I think it's the pump for the direct injection from what I read my dad has a 2014 GMC Sierra it makes the same noise it's low mileage like less than 10000 miles oil is changed once a year. With like 1000 miles on it.
As said below get an ALLDATA subscription, if it like ford some of those high pressure fuel lines maybe one time use. They are formed seal when they are torqued and may not seal when reinstalled.
The company I work for has a 2003 GMC savana and it also has a ticking noise coming from the engine and it only has 100,000 km
Put in a performance cam and a supercharger, and you'll be golden (until your transmission explodes into little tiny pieces). :3
Throw a dose of Marvel mystery oil in a tank or two before next oil change. That stuff cleared our prior owner low maintenance gunk and gave me a happier engine.
I just started watching, but i remember when you pulled the valve covers. You had little to no oil to the rocker area then, and it won’t be better now. You have a lack of oil pressure to the rockers. you need to look at the oil delivery system. Yes, you might need lifters, but that is a symptom, not a cause.
From my understanding the ecotec engines or any fuel saving engine cuts fuel off to those certain cylinders saving fuel but what they don’t tell you is the fuel acts as. Lubricant to the cam lobes.. so I take it both of the back cylinders were the ones that get cut off.software hacks you can do to keep the ecotech mode off there by keeping engine lubricated .. now the world knows. Moment.. ecotech great on gas but very short life..
Having a doghouse to remove makes working on engines so much easier. I find the GM ones are a bit smaller thatn Ford so that's a bummer, but I dont like working on Fords in general so I'll take it. Often times the vans are way easier than trucks to work on.
As far as the belt replacement most of the time, they’re not gonna show cracking. If you contact gates belt, they have a tool, and I can check the depth of the groove, which is most of the time worn out and can cause belt to slip on pulleys.
That was a disappointing find. Damn. I've never seen a cam or roller lifter that looked that bad. Josh, any idea as to the cause? I mean, most of the others were fine.
I used to hate working on vans where you had to work half in and half out of the engine bay, the infamous dog house. I busted many a knuckle pulling exhaust manifolds on those.
Seems like cams everywhere just go bad. Flat tappet cams are almost impossible to break in these days. Did we loose something in heat treatment of metal over the last 20 years?
What are you doing with a vehicle that has spark plugs [ we don't need no stinking spark plugs ;)
Thanks again
josh im getting a "no data link" on my dash on a 05 intl'9900 ix..cm 870.. what steps do I take to fix it?
Beware of what GM calls "piston and cylinder interaction" on LS style motors. They say it's normal, we would call it piston slap.
I think we need Eric to review this, it's only fair. :D
It would come full circle. Maybe Rainman Ray, he works on this stuff all the time too.
oh man i like the end part when you screaming it was FUNNY AS HELL!!
Hate to breakittuya, but the "stretch belt" is a hoax. That belt runs the ac, it has its own tensioner. That costs twice as much as the main belt tensioner $300+, so used car guys get a too short belt and put it on with tire irons.
adept ape you are awesome man
I am 5 months into my diesel school. you my friend has help me understand engines tremendously thank you
This is why i always hated working on van chassis
ps, i know you already ordered parts but it might be worth looking for a low milage one out of a non-commercial vehicle (maybe a wreck). sorry to be the bearer of bad news...but Ive seen similar situations that turn into a constant plague of chasing issues. At the very least take a good look at everything you can- bottom end, cylinders, etc. If you see anything that looks iffy...run like hell
Better than Chevy lumina van, no dog house, or if you worked on toyota sienna engine lays on its side underneath passenger seat. Once the doghouse off, your working on a table pretty much in a full size van. You should try putting in a engine in a van on 4 post lift, lots of fun!😂 Ill take a full size anyday.
There’s a button to fix that on all GM vehicles! It’s on the left side of the stereo labeled volume up
I am a heavy Machinery mechanic, and don't enjoy cars at all.
But hey? It can't be as bad as an international truck.
You're likely to find a wiped out roller and cam lobe. Pretty common issue with late model gm engines
I’m wishing you success in this repair. I’m not a fan of this engineering. Great when it work though.
Upgrade to a mild performance cam and lifters. And a mild tune. It will wake that van up!
YOU DID THE RIGHT THING BEFORE IT SCREWED YOUR ENGINE UP . AND IT WOULD HAVE. MOVE TO THE NON NEEDLE BEARINGS. AND I WOULD TAKE THE PAN OF AND MAKE SHURE THERE IS NO GLITTER IN THERE IF OK THEN NEW FILTER AND OF YOU GO . ENET WAY YOU DON'T NEED US TO TELL YOU HOW TO SUCK EGGS
@adeptap I have a 2000 E350 with a 7.3 if you would rather a diesel van
The block is trashed where the lifter rides. Had 2 different 6.0L do this and one has broken the roller right off.
More than likely a camshaft lobe or a bad roller lifter. Roller lifters with needle bearings are a common failure.
Another victim of the wonderful 5.3 DOD problems.
The engine cover and those baffles are to help keep the excessive noise down.
Typical gas engines!
Josh , time to call Steve Morris and check out a SML swap . 😊😊😊
You keep saying a lot of miles for 3 years old. But how many miles is a lot of miles. Please explain to use viewers 🤞🤞🤞🤞
It had 167,000 when I bought it. Not sure the maintenance schedule on it before, but got it for a deal so I'm fine with putting in a little extra now.
I *thought* those little cut marks across the fastener points meant it was left hand thread? What the heck are they doing?
LS swap would be easy, jalopy jungle has a ton of them here in Boise!
I wonder if a new engine would be the wisest choice? That metal is everywhere it should not be.
I hate vans..... A pickup with a touneau cover or a canopy with one of those slide out bottoms would work well ....
If you've seen me trucks, they aren't so easy to work on either.