Thanks for watching the second part of our Purple Pete saga. Amazon Affiliate Links to recommended tools: Super Scraper Carbide Wood Handle: amzn.to/3FYcXpo Air Vacuum Kit: amzn.to/3YpIvf3
@@shortthrow50 I meant that small dent in the gasket makes all that trouble! As in it locking up like that how something so small in regards to the outcome…
Haha I can't wait I love watching these videos learning about engine repair I'm an eighteen year old heavy duty truck tech and I want to learn more and work on these bigger jobs it all comes in time but it's just interesting and I enjoy it
You came to the right place! Stay the course, and don't settle for mediocrity. Keep advancing, until you reach the top of your industry. I wasn't a mechanic I was a fireman, but I always did my own work, and now fool with yacht diesels in my retirement.
My cousin had a line "The Devil is in the details" and does seem to apply here. Good thing you're into care and attention, and may you live long and prosper.
My dad would use that piston plug but he did not use the tool you used with the impact he removed the rod cap and used the tool to turn the engine at the flywheel and the piston would push out the pack all together. Whichever piston was the lowest was next inline. Great video!
@@AdeptApe They come out quick and less stress on the threaded rod in the plug. It's been so long that I forgot he would put a lifting eye on the rod to make it easier to lift it out. He passed in 2006 so my memory is fading but he worked for Holt of San Antonio for 38 years. I'm not a mechanic I just drive the hell out of them:)
I find it interesting that every mechanic I watch online calls them spacer plates. Around 2005-2007 I worked for the company in Eaton Rapids, Mi. that made them for CAT. We always called them deck plates. Now some of you may find it hard to believe but. No, CAT does not make it's own parts at least not for everything. This factory made hundreds of different parts for CAT. Mostly brackets and mounting plates, and some large assemblies such as the radiator hoods for the big mine trucks. I can say that evey single "deck plate" CAT used at that time came from there. They were laser cut from sheet steel, staitened, machined, ground, tumble finished and 100% inspected. This consisted of being placed on an engine block with pins in every hole to ensure they were all there and in the right location. Several samples per shift were subjected to additional inspections and a full dimensional check on a CMM.(My job) We were a dock to stock facility, so as soon as the parts were received at CAT they were placed directly on engines being assembled without further inspection. I left in 2007 so they could still be making them today for all I know. Some of our production did get boxed for the repair part buisness.
Very interesting information. I'm still going to call them spacer plates, but I'm not surprised that Cat uses a variety of vendors for their parts. Cat has Cat tools as well, which have Cat part numbers, but are made by a variety of different companies.
I used a long body air sander to sand the top of block! Did not take a lot off but cleaned it up nice! Those brake diaphragms come in lots of sizes, did D353, D342, and others using them! I also made an extension for the insert cutter to get the handle above the front plate, made it a lot easier than keep moving the handle, on number one! Have to wonder why water ferrules were high they should have surfaced the cylinder block to make it so! Our machinist that does that job would at lest gone back over them with a mill to make them level with the block! Have to wonder, did they surface the block then decide to fix the ferrule holes? I would put all new liners in, they wear to match the block surface over time so block worn so are liners! Was fun to watch you do this job, keep having fun! those oil ferrules made it a lot better to control oil, but we used copper coat along with them to help make sure, thin yes, but filled in the voids!
one of the best channels on youtube! thank you sir for the time you put into putting these videos together. It is much appreciated and your content is awesome!
Man, what an excellent idea with the brake chamber diaphragms in the cylinder holes. Why haven't I thought of that? Nice job on cutting those counterbore's man I always struggle doing them. I don't know why, maybe because I'm nervous to go too deep half the time. Yours came out really nice here.
Excellent educational video. That movie is a great old one, scared my son when he was little. Gotta say I loved the Rec Room. Stay safe and healthy Josh.
I'm not a Caterpillar Tech but I have a MXS C15 ACERT in my 2007 Pete 379 . You showed the 5 oil funnels I thought was interesting . So if you use them, you don't have to use aviation sealant between the spacer shim and the block . I don't know how long they've been around, but that's cool . Like everyone else, I enjoy watching your videos Josh .
I like how meticulous your are about keeping the shavings up definitely a plus when doing that kind of work that deep into a motor ! True sign of a professional ! Thanks for the video it's the first time I've seen the head off an the liner pulled on a Cat ! Awesome job !
Years ago at work we made a socket that was one foot long . We cut an impact socket in two turned a pipe to size ,pressed the halves of the socket in then welded .
I still use anaerobic sealant on the spacer plate shim also When I usually cut my bores I cut down until I know I am getting close within a couple of thou then I drop down to cutting 1/2 thou measuring with a digital depth guage then once I have my depth I roll the top adjustment down tight and use a paint pen across the two of them to give me an indexing point great work love your channel !!!!
8:55 A common joke in my area. Engine techs would get apprentices to push up under the liner when removing at which point the apprentice would get doused in coolant. A dck move to be sure but an apprentice should know better and it encourages them to think ahead. If a wet liner is surrounded by coolant one should assume that there's going to some coolant there, so don't sit under it.
Weird the way that top deck on the block has that coloration to it. Perhaps some used a sealant on it. But I was under the understanding you didn’t want to use sealant on those. That counter bore cutter worked beautifully. Good setup always helps to though. Once back to work she should run like new. Always a pleasure watching and always interesting and informative. 👍
I had a twisted o-ring on my a cylinder sleeve after a platinum rebuild… it blew after about 20k miles. Had similar issues to begin with eating coolant
just wondering..... wonder if Cat would approve the use of a magnet along with a vacuum to get those metal shavings.? enjoy watching your videos. Old chevy mechanic here that does not know squat about working on diesels but enjoy watching a real pro do it right. Shops I worked in were always on flat rate and the emphasis was on speed, not quality. Take care and once again, enjoy your videos
I like the cummins jets because being plastic they'll break off you forget. If you accidentally bump those and even bend them in the slightest- they can be reused and nobody is the wiser until the customer melts #6 pulling a hill a week later. Just my .02 though
I started using CRC gasket remover to clean decks and heads. It also lifts thick solid carbon deposits off the pistons, amazing stuff really it saves me a ton of time.
@@AdeptApe probably. It sprays out like snot so it's more meant for coating a surface. After it sits for 10 minutes I use a plastic scraper to remove the crud.
Was the liner projection low from losing its crush and moving around? Odd that a reman short block has low projection. Liner is 0.350, minus spacer plate 0.338, minus shim thickness roughly 0.008. So projection should be around 0.003 to 0.004 typically. On our stand to pull the pack, we added about one inch, so the liner comes completely out of the lower deck. I use the counter bore shim as the gauge. I mic all shims and get the thinnest one of the set. Once my tool is set up I use masking tape and tape over the top of the entire deck to prevent metal shavings from getting into head bolt holes and water holes. Very odd color on the top deck. Since 5EK engines and such don't have a drain back seal. I asked to see if the funnel seal could be made and put in that area. Not sure if it has enough material to rest on.
To protect the deck of my pullers if space isn't much of an issue, I'd pick up a small taper bearing and race with the inner dia of the bolt. Put more effort into pulling instead of turning force. Also a LOT cheaper than a thrust bearing.
If he's using an aftermarket head he needs to and I cant stress this enough change the cups and seals to CAT my apc head lasted 7 months and ultimately caused a rebuild due to liner seals.
I thought in part 1 you stated that the block was a cat reman and the other shop simply installed the long block, then installed the head and accessories? If it was a low mileage block why would Cat not pay to correct the liner protrusion issue?
The dark color looks like someone used "Indian Head" gasket sealer before they put the shim in place. It leaves a dark brown to black color to the metal. It's a shellac type of sealer commonly used on motorcycle cases in place of gaskets.
Yeah adept, you mentioned about a third the way after you started that you wanted to see machining marks, they're also called witness marks.great video , real professional workmanship.
You do the same things as me which makes me feel good that I've been doing it right for the last 22 years, but I quit using the liner puller plug and go straight for the "jaws of life" and pull liner out separately. We cut all our blocks now just to be sure the protrusions are good. I'm interested in this aftermarket head quality, is it IPD ?
Looks like he got screwed by the rebuilder w/o lube or a reach around. Hopefully after you get thru with it, he'll have many more of trouble free miles. That deck is waver than the beach
You have to do at less a 100 foot pounds of torque on your liners in order to find tip an dropped liners that’s why a lot of over hauls fail an put it at 6 thousands because liners settle over heat an time number 5 is problematic because of the manifold passed the hot gas to the center making the back center to burn up so get a manifold with better flow
👍 ACCOMPLISHED Adept Ape My Mentor Adept Ape Take care and have a great evening with all your family around you ACCOMPLISHED Adept Ape From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 18:59pm Good Evening
At one time Cat sold a thinner spacer plate. Do not know if it is still available. The problem on a top flange liner on a Cat is, the head gasket fails usually between two cylinders. Between four and five is the most common place. So the top deck of the block has fretting from the liner into the block. As the clamping force is relaxed from the failed gasket. Thus the fretting is not consistently around. The rear is usually worn more over the front. So by putting a thinner plate between the head and cylinder block, you are forcing the liner flange into a non level area. You may break the flange, have uneven liner projection. Thus you will have a early hour failure on the joint again. Years ago you had a cast iron shim. As emissions got tighter, cylinder psi increased. So the cast iron shim cannot handle the load. The stainless shims hold up better. Higher HP engines makes the problem even worst. As fuel is injected the liner expands and contracts. As the liner is so much harder over the block, that area wears out.
What would happen if you just put the thinnest shim possible under all the liners but didn't cut the counter bores , or install the shim on the cylinder that dropped then recheck the protrusion on the cylinders that were out of spec , would that give sufficient crush on that cylinder ?
put many long block Cat reman engines together and found the quality to be awesome. This engine really made me wonder about the quality control now used. Also I bet the blocks being rebuilt now are getting pretty worn out I got a Cat reman engine from Cat on a warranty claim and it has an over cut block and under crank in it. No problems.
@7:10 Geezeee.....😯 With all these destruction of the weeks with Windows being put in the block of Caterpillar engines- -it is a blessing that caterpillar is building new replacement blocks for these engines. May anyone tell me that any block made in 2023 to replace a block originally built in 1999 or later can still meet the Federal ELD exemption...???
Required Components for C15 Through C18 Location Part Number Description Quantity For One Cylinder Quantity For Six Cylinders 1 7H-3598 Track Bolt 6 26 2 8F-1484 Washer 6 26 3 7X-0564 Washer 6 26
Please excuse my ignorance, how does removing metal from the block raise the cylinder pack to help seal the head gasket? BTW, I really enjoy your content.
Thanks for watching the second part of our Purple Pete saga. Amazon Affiliate Links to recommended tools:
Super Scraper Carbide Wood Handle: amzn.to/3FYcXpo
Air Vacuum Kit: amzn.to/3YpIvf3
can you give part number for the bolt you used to check the protusoin
hey bro
Is aftermarket parts better?
And if its, do you know wich ones?
It’s crazy how something so small could cause so much trouble 👍
So small?? That’s not a small issue that was overlooked when building a motor
@@shortthrow50 I meant that small dent in the gasket makes all that trouble! As in it locking up like that how something so small in regards to the outcome…
Nice profile pic, a true hero
@@royalblood2405 👍 a great man
this style of video is unmatched, love being taken through the journey of the job.
And he never fails to make me cackle loudly with the edits. 😂
Haha I can't wait I love watching these videos learning about engine repair I'm an eighteen year old heavy duty truck tech and I want to learn more and work on these bigger jobs it all comes in time but it's just interesting and I enjoy it
Thanks for watching the videos.
You came to the right place! Stay the course, and don't settle for mediocrity. Keep advancing, until you reach the top of your industry. I wasn't a mechanic I was a fireman, but I always did my own work, and now fool with yacht diesels in my retirement.
Being myself a diesel mechanic, I am very pleased watching your videos. Thank you so much for sharing your experiences with your viewers .
Ooooooo extremely graphic mechanic-ing! That just gives me full body shivers!!!
Hi Larry! I need to invent some new words every once in awhile 😄
@@AdeptApe ❤️❤️👍🏻
My cousin had a line "The Devil is in the details" and does seem to apply here. Good thing you're into care and attention, and may you live long and prosper.
My dad would use that piston plug but he did not use the tool you used with the impact he removed the rod cap and used the tool to turn the engine at the flywheel and the piston would push out the pack all together. Whichever piston was the lowest was next inline. Great video!
That's actually a really good idea, I might have to try that.
@@AdeptApe They come out quick and less stress on the threaded rod in the plug. It's been so long that I forgot he would put a lifting eye on the rod to make it easier to lift it out. He passed in 2006 so my memory is fading but he worked for Holt of San Antonio for 38 years. I'm not a mechanic I just drive the hell out of them:)
@@AdeptApe the old cat book said to put it in high gear and jack up a wheel and turn the wheel pop goes the cylinder pack
You are a true professional my friend hello from🇨🇦love Cats
I find it interesting that every mechanic I watch online calls them spacer plates. Around 2005-2007 I worked for the company in Eaton Rapids, Mi. that made them for CAT. We always called them deck plates. Now some of you may find it hard to believe but. No, CAT does not make it's own parts at least not for everything. This factory made hundreds of different parts for CAT. Mostly brackets and mounting plates, and some large assemblies such as the radiator hoods for the big mine trucks.
I can say that evey single "deck plate" CAT used at that time came from there. They were laser cut from sheet steel, staitened, machined, ground, tumble finished and 100% inspected. This consisted of being placed on an engine block with pins in every hole to ensure they were all there and in the right location. Several samples per shift were subjected to additional inspections and a full dimensional check on a CMM.(My job) We were a dock to stock facility, so as soon as the parts were received at CAT they were placed directly on engines being assembled without further inspection. I left in 2007 so they could still be making them today for all I know. Some of our production did get boxed for the repair part buisness.
Very interesting information. I'm still going to call them spacer plates, but I'm not surprised that Cat uses a variety of vendors for their parts. Cat has Cat tools as well, which have Cat part numbers, but are made by a variety of different companies.
We always called them deck plates.
nice work josh, you are a credit to your profession.
Watching you cut the deck was so satisfying.
Well Josh I'll never be doing this but I do like watching you work your magic. Keep the good stuff coming.
I used a long body air sander to sand the top of block! Did not take a lot off but cleaned it up nice! Those brake diaphragms come in lots of sizes, did D353, D342, and others using them! I also made an extension for the insert cutter to get the handle above the front plate, made it a lot easier than keep moving the handle, on number one! Have to wonder why water ferrules were high they should have surfaced the cylinder block to make it so! Our machinist that does that job would at lest gone back over them with a mill to make them level with the block! Have to wonder, did they surface the block then decide to fix the ferrule holes? I would put all new liners in, they wear to match the block surface over time so block worn so are liners! Was fun to watch you do this job, keep having fun! those oil ferrules made it a lot better to control oil, but we used copper coat along with them to help make sure, thin yes, but filled in the voids!
one of the best channels on youtube! thank you sir for the time you put into putting these videos together. It is much appreciated and your content is awesome!
Thanks for sharing Josh
Great video. Really enjoyed the step-by-step narration. I can see that cleanliness is very important!
great mechanic, keep up the good work
Man, what an excellent idea with the brake chamber diaphragms in the cylinder holes. Why haven't I thought of that?
Nice job on cutting those counterbore's man I always struggle doing them. I don't know why, maybe because I'm nervous to go too deep half the time. Yours came out really nice here.
Excellent educational video. That movie is a great old one, scared my son when he was little. Gotta say I loved the Rec Room. Stay safe and healthy Josh.
Simply brilliant 👍
I'm not a Caterpillar Tech but I have a MXS C15 ACERT in my 2007 Pete 379 .
You showed the 5 oil funnels I thought was interesting . So if you use them, you don't have to use aviation sealant between the spacer shim and the block .
I don't know how long they've been around, but that's cool . Like everyone else, I enjoy watching your videos Josh .
thrilling!!! great episode! cant wait for the grand finale on this purple pete series!! 🤠
I like how meticulous your are about keeping the shavings up definitely a plus when doing that kind of work that deep into a motor ! True sign of a professional ! Thanks for the video it's the first time I've seen the head off an the liner pulled on a Cat ! Awesome job !
Great work.
Years ago at work we made a socket that was one foot long . We cut an impact socket in two turned a pipe to size ,pressed the halves of the socket in then welded .
I still use anaerobic sealant on the spacer plate shim also When I usually cut my bores I cut down until I know I am getting close within a couple of thou then I drop down to cutting 1/2 thou measuring with a digital depth guage then once I have my depth I roll the top adjustment down tight and use a paint pen across the two of them to give me an indexing point great work love your channel !!!!
Thanks for the extremely graphic video . 😉👍
Thanks for watching "Fat Dan"
Great information josh very interesting and information 👍
Great video enjoying this series on this engine/truck…
Well Done! Nice cuts!
Thanks Josh.
This video was so satisfying. I got a lot to learn. Thanks.
8:55 A common joke in my area. Engine techs would get apprentices to push up under the liner when removing at which point the apprentice would get doused in coolant.
A dck move to be sure but an apprentice should know better and it encourages them to think ahead. If a wet liner is surrounded by coolant one should assume that there's going to some coolant there, so don't sit under it.
I've used pieces of granite off cut from a countertop manufacturer to use as a sanding block. Works like a charm for sanding the block 👌
I bet they are pretty dang flat.
@@AdeptApe Very flat, also very abundant, free and in all sorts of sizes and shapes.
Weird the way that top deck on the block has that coloration to it. Perhaps some used a sealant on it. But I was under the understanding you didn’t want to use sealant on those. That counter bore cutter worked beautifully. Good setup always helps to though. Once back to work she should run like new. Always a pleasure watching and always interesting and informative. 👍
I'm wondering if it had something to do with the fire rings allowing carbon maybe, it is very strange though.
Looks like a 7.3 block/head after removing the graphite head gasket.
Josh, you do amazing work !!
Very meticulous work, hope your Boss and customer's appreciate you !!!
Excellent investigation and prognosis, very interesting to observe, and learn!
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Josh
Ok a new word I gotta mechanic-in 👍🏾👌🏾
Purple Pete is in good hands ...
Great work man as usual
Been waiting for this video! 👍🏻
I use a harbor freight grinder when working on the deck. :)
Obviously the best choice if you don't have a chainsaw to use instead.
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
The first cut is the deepest....
Another awesome video, as usual
I had a twisted o-ring on my a cylinder sleeve after a platinum rebuild… it blew after about 20k miles. Had similar issues to begin with eating coolant
You have a great attitude !
3:32 I believe that is a dial indicator
I was wondering about this truck when you posted the 3406 with the plugged water passage
While I haven't don't as much hg work as you have, the few I have done all have that grey finish. I figured it was normal-ish.
Fascinating
just wondering..... wonder if Cat would approve the use of a magnet along with a vacuum to get those metal shavings.? enjoy watching your videos. Old chevy mechanic here that does not know squat about working on diesels but enjoy watching a real pro do it right. Shops I worked in were always on flat rate and the emphasis was on speed, not quality. Take care and once again, enjoy your videos
You should use the roller bearing from the inj cup pulling tool on the pack puller. Prevents slipping and burning up the 400 dollar rubber cup
I like the cummins jets because being plastic they'll break off you forget. If you accidentally bump those and even bend them in the slightest- they can be reused and nobody is the wiser until the customer melts #6 pulling a hill a week later. Just my .02 though
Yes, plastic internal engine parts are a great idea in general 👍 perhaps even paper would be even better.
Great video!
APC head I'm guessing?? They're always my go to for heads anyway. Good video, lots of really good information!!
I started using CRC gasket remover to clean decks and heads. It also lifts thick solid carbon deposits off the pistons, amazing stuff really it saves me a ton of time.
Does it remove carbon from EGR parts?
Yes. Like a hot knife through butter
@@AdeptApe probably. It sprays out like snot so it's more meant for coating a surface. After it sits for 10 minutes I use a plastic scraper to remove the crud.
You need magnets to catch the shavings from the counter bore. this will save you some time. You may patented this idea if you would like.
That deck has been out in the rain for some time, I think.
Was the liner projection low from losing its crush and moving around? Odd that a reman short block has low projection.
Liner is 0.350, minus spacer plate 0.338, minus shim thickness roughly 0.008. So projection should be around 0.003 to 0.004 typically.
On our stand to pull the pack, we added about one inch, so the liner comes completely out of the lower deck. I use the counter bore shim as the gauge. I mic all shims and get the thinnest one of the set. Once my tool is set up I use masking tape and tape over the top of the entire deck to prevent metal shavings from getting into head bolt holes and water holes. Very odd color on the top deck.
Since 5EK engines and such don't have a drain back seal. I asked to see if the funnel seal could be made and put in that area. Not sure if it has enough material to rest on.
To protect the deck of my pullers if space isn't much of an issue, I'd pick up a small taper bearing and race with the inner dia of the bolt. Put more effort into pulling instead of turning force. Also a LOT cheaper than a thrust bearing.
You don’t need to pull the rod caps out. Lol. Love me some learning.
Hopefully there's a third video to complete the saga
If he's using an aftermarket head he needs to and I cant stress this enough change the cups and seals to CAT my apc head lasted 7 months and ultimately caused a rebuild due to liner seals.
I thought in part 1 you stated that the block was a cat reman and the other shop simply installed the long block, then installed the head and accessories? If it was a low mileage block why would Cat not pay to correct the liner protrusion issue?
Kick ass vid josh..😂
Ha, I got to where I just pulled the pistons then using a different type puller I would pull all the liners separately. 😁
The dark color looks like someone used "Indian Head" gasket sealer before they put the shim in place. It leaves a dark brown to black color to the metal. It's a shellac type of sealer commonly used on motorcycle cases in place of gaskets.
Yeah adept, you mentioned about a third the way after you started that you wanted to see machining marks, they're also called witness marks.great video , real professional workmanship.
You do the same things as me which makes me feel good that I've been doing it right for the last 22 years, but I quit using the liner puller plug and go straight for the "jaws of life" and pull liner out separately. We cut all our blocks now just to be sure the protrusions are good. I'm interested in this aftermarket head quality, is it IPD ?
Haven't got the head yet. There will be at least 1 more video in this series and maybe 2.
Looks like he got screwed by the rebuilder w/o lube or a reach around.
Hopefully after you get thru with it, he'll have many more of trouble free miles. That deck is waver than the beach
always wondered if high engine temperature helps cause sinking liners
You have to do at less a 100 foot pounds of torque on your liners in order to find tip an dropped liners that’s why a lot of over hauls fail an put it at 6 thousands because liners settle over heat an time number 5 is problematic because of the manifold passed the hot gas to the center making the back center to burn up so get a manifold with better flow
This truck should be called One Eye Purple people eater.
👍
ACCOMPLISHED Adept Ape
My Mentor Adept Ape
Take care and have a great evening with all your family around you
ACCOMPLISHED Adept Ape
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 18:59pm Good Evening
You're such a nice guy Nick! You comment on every video.
The tool you are using is a dial indicator
seems odd that you cant mill the shim plate down one or two thou to get the clamping back. That what shims are for, to fine tune the tolerance.
At one time Cat sold a thinner spacer plate. Do not know if it is still available. The problem on a top flange liner on a Cat is, the head gasket fails usually between two cylinders. Between four and five is the most common place. So the top deck of the block has fretting from the liner into the block. As the clamping force is relaxed from the failed gasket. Thus the fretting is not consistently around. The rear is usually worn more over the front. So by putting a thinner plate between the head and cylinder block, you are forcing the liner flange into a non level area. You may break the flange, have uneven liner projection. Thus you will have a early hour failure on the joint again. Years ago you had a cast iron shim. As emissions got tighter, cylinder psi increased. So the cast iron shim cannot handle the load. The stainless shims hold up better. Higher HP engines makes the problem even worst. As fuel is injected the liner expands and contracts. As the liner is so much harder over the block, that area wears out.
CAT cracks their new heads before they ship them out.
What would happen if you just put the thinnest shim possible under all the liners but didn't cut the counter bores , or install the shim on the cylinder that dropped then recheck the protrusion on the cylinders that were out of spec , would that give sufficient crush on that cylinder ?
So was this a cat issue since it was there short block? Or the other shop?
Thank you for to all videos and please let sous-titre
Is that considered a warranty repair since it is a low hour CAT long block?
put many long block Cat reman engines together and found the quality to be awesome. This engine really made me wonder about the quality control now used. Also I bet the blocks being rebuilt now are getting pretty worn out I got a Cat reman engine from Cat on a warranty claim and it has an over cut block and under crank in it. No problems.
Nice
I was wondering why you couldn't plug all the holes to keep the shavings out.
@7:10
Geezeee.....😯
With all these destruction of the weeks with Windows being put in the block of Caterpillar engines-
-it is a blessing that caterpillar is building new replacement blocks for these engines.
May anyone tell me that any block made in 2023 to replace a block originally built in 1999 or later can still meet the Federal ELD exemption...???
Hey Josh, any chance in getting the part numbers for the bolts and washers that you used to torque downdown the spacer plate and liners?
Required Components for C15 Through C18
Location Part Number Description Quantity For One Cylinder Quantity For Six Cylinders
1 7H-3598 Track Bolt 6 26
2 8F-1484 Washer 6 26
3 7X-0564 Washer 6 26
Thank you.
Half way through is that deck cerakoted or how ever you spell it. Spell check don't pop up on my phone anymore lol
Can you use the seen from Brother where are tho. "That don't make no sense"....
Do you get demonize because I still hear the destruction of the week music in my head when the introduction is played asking for a friend
I'm sorry that oil plug was so tight 😂😂
When you need a big impact to get the plug off pray for forgiveness.
What grade of sandpaper grit do you use for flat sanding?
How much will the previous shop "chip in" to reimburse the owner for the crappy assembly??!!
What a Caterpillar head cracked ROFLMAO no way
Was that engine a new rebuild from cat? If so wouldn’t cat warranty all that work
About how much would all this work cost to get done
Did cat warranty the shortblock?
Please excuse my ignorance, how does removing metal from the block raise the cylinder pack to help seal the head gasket? BTW, I really enjoy your content.
You put a stainless shim in the section you cut out to raise the liner higher.
What would a guy have to do, or how long of a wait to have you rebuild his C-15 in an ‘07 W9??