Bolex Tutorial

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2020
  • A guide to the Bolex H16 camera.

ความคิดเห็น • 23

  • @jocknarn3225
    @jocknarn3225 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Bloody good looking camera. Exudes solidity & quality. I just got a B8 I gotta get CLA’d. Now, damn it .. I “want” a (reflex) H16. Very nice

  • @gerritpiechowski5344
    @gerritpiechowski5344 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    That's awesome man! The Bolex gets really popular again these days and I get asked a lot of techy questions, too. Especially when it comes to loading it. From now on I can just share this video with everyone! Thank you so much for taking the time to create this really informative tutorial. What a great Bolex you have btw, looks perfect!
    Keep it up!

    • @cinemyscope6630
      @cinemyscope6630  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you! Unfortunately that Bolex isn't mine.

  • @kobzarro6508
    @kobzarro6508 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you for such a great and informative video!

  • @oldradiosnphonographs
    @oldradiosnphonographs ปีที่แล้ว

    I dig the 90s style intro to this video. I hope to be a proud Bolex H16 REX 4 or 5 owner within the next month

  • @CertainExposures
    @CertainExposures ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you. I have a Bolex H16 Leader (non-reflex) and this helped a bit. I'm still trying to find a guide on both the viewfinders on it. The turret setup seems different too.

  • @MichaelCarter
    @MichaelCarter 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Ah heck, I thought this video would be about how cinemascope or widescreen was made using a Bolex, but that was your name, not the lenses... nevertheless, a great job explaining the camera. Now I know why the loading guide is missing on my H8RX4.

    • @cinemyscope6630
      @cinemyscope6630  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      To shoot widescreen with a Bolex you got some options. One is using an anamorphic lens. They are around but are relatively rare and therefore expensive. You could adapt something like an SLR Magic adapter onto your existing lenses. Those are not cheap either but will probably cost less. You'll need the one with a 2x squeeze factor. Beware that focusing will be significantly more difficult. Then there is the option of just cropping in post. Not having frame lines in the finder will make that more difficult and its really easier to do this in another camera like an SR. Option C is wilder. Some people have moved a Bolex Double 8mm (not super 8) movement into a 16mm Bolex. That way you get 1/2 the pulldown, meaning you end up with a widescreen image once the gate is narrowed to 1/2 the height which would be DIY doable nowadays with an insert made on a 3D printer. Thing is that I only know of one brand of B&W film that's available in Double 8 perforation at this point. Getting the film scanned then is another issue. I'm not sure who does it. let us know if you do! Pro8mm in LA has recently said that they may start offering D8mm services. It's a cool format and if labs would offer more D8 stock that mod would be quite interesting.

  • @Stanlyok
    @Stanlyok 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks so much for these videos (this one and Arriflex too)! I have a question you might help me with: how much should I compensate the exposure for the prism (since that takes out a bit of light)? Cheers!

    • @cinemyscope6630
      @cinemyscope6630  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Generally when you shoot neg stock overexpose it by 2/3 of a stop. If you rate a 500 stock as 320 on your meter you’ll get a denser negative that will look a lot better. This works for any camera not just the Bolex. I’d compensate 1/3 to half a stop for the prism but the technique above takes care of it automatically.

    • @Stanlyok
      @Stanlyok 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@cinemyscope6630 thanks! Overexposed by 1 stop (Vision3 50D) but have yet to send it for dev! Hope the camera worked fine because aperture control was slipping sometimes.

  • @keatsu
    @keatsu 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hey! My friend and I are shooting a video with a Bolex camera, and we're looking for an answer to one specific question: We finished shooting today and we haven't exhausted the winding (the tension spring is under tension). Our next shoot is next week and we don't want to waste a second of the video. Will this tensed spring damage the camera or should we exhaust the winding?

    • @richardclement4036
      @richardclement4036 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Leaving some tension on the spring for a week will cause no damage or harm to the spring.

    • @keatsu
      @keatsu 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@richardclement4036 Thanks!!

  • @DethronerX
    @DethronerX 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Hello. I have the Reflex version with the bracket mount, with a lever on the back and it's stuck in the down position. I don't want to force it up, so if you know how, please do let me know, thanks.

    • @cinemyscope6630
      @cinemyscope6630  8 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      This is probably a lever to open/close the shutter. This was for fade outs and fade ins and with a rewind crank you could even do cross dissolves. Nowadays none of this is needed. I'd recommend you take the entire assembly off. When you disconnect it from the shutter lever you can just open your shutter.

    • @DethronerX
      @DethronerX 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@cinemyscope6630 Thanks. Yes, i did listen to the fade part in your video, I didn't know the use previously. Isn't there any way to move it. I don't mind taking it off, since I won't be using fades, but it might come in handy if it works and it looks gorgeous with it.
      I did buy the rewind crank from Etsy and the box of filter holders but they're too thick to insert, so Ill just tape it to seal the cracks.

  • @user-wr9wz6wu7o
    @user-wr9wz6wu7o ปีที่แล้ว

    What camera do you use to record these tutorials?

  • @michatroschka
    @michatroschka 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Hi! my transport mechanism is stuck, any idea?

    • @cinemyscope6630
      @cinemyscope6630  8 หลายเดือนก่อน

      If it’s nothing obviously that causes an obstruction you probably need to send it in for service.

  • @alexzappa1726
    @alexzappa1726 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Where did the wheel of swiss cheese go?