Great information. Here's an easy way to tell the difference between an 8mm and 16mm H model Bolex: look in the film chamber. If the posts for the feed/take up reels are round, they're for 8mm spools. If squared off, for 16mm spools. Also, many of the RX cameras have separate optical viewfinders on the film door, much like their non-reflex brethren, since the reflex viewfinder with a stopped down lens is often too dim for easy use. The reflex viewfinder is fine for focusing, but not so much for shooting.
Oh Noah, i love you man :). I am an aspiring cinematographer and after finishing an intensive short course in 16/35mm film familiarisation at NFTS, i felt this urge to continue working with the film, and your videos pushed me even further to finally make this decision and buy a 16mm film camera. Now i am a 'mother' of Bolex H16 Rex4, and i cannot be happier. That's it, we're all one big Bolex family now :))
Jogged in to the real world,at the end,there.I kind of presumed I was watching a video made in another age ... like,a month or two ago.Excellent work, Noah.Cheers!
I've been a Bolex user for over 40 years. My first model was an early double perf. I later got a model M4 which came with a large zoom lens with a reflex side finder. I got a single frame motor for it to shoot stop motion animation. Finally I got a Rex 4. I bought it from a German owner who had it refurbished at the Bolex factory along with adding a magazine saddle on top. Essentially making it a sort of Rex 5. I also got a good animation drive and other accessories such as a matte box.
Je suis aussi un peu de la région (Bienne). Malheureusement Bolex International à Yverdon ne répond plus et leur téléphone est débranché. Dommage. Si tu connais une ressource en Suisse pour des pièces/accessoires et un service de révision je suis preneur...
@@henrigraber2741 mince alors ils ont vraiment coulé coulé... tu m’apprends un truc je me faisais une joie de les contacter des que je j aurais ma caméra... je suis à Genève si jamais je trouve une solution je ferais signe 👍🏻
A bought a Bolex not too long ago and gladly I did my research before buying one from the same site you referenced! Great video, I didn’t think they’d have made so many models!
9:22 this is the version I purchased from eBay a 1957 model (s/n 147247) Can’t wait to fool around with this thing. I gotta find out how to oil one of these property for smooth performance
Hello , thats really a great video just a the other clips I have seen, Good knowledge. Therefore I want to ask you about 25 fps. Many years ago I used Super 8 film, now I own and use two Canon Scoopic 16mm cameras, one with 24 fps the other one with the special television version of 25 fps. Besides the hint, that 24 fps looks more cinematic and 25 fps are easier to edit after scanning, do you have any other knowledge about the use of 25 fps on 16mm stock? Thank you very much for any hint. Kind regards Thomas
Excellent review of Bolex film cameras. I owned a H8RX one of the last made picked it up in ST Croix Switzerland 1971? Subsequently had a angenoux 8-64 lens fitted. Some years later I had it converted to use Double S8 film in Vancouver BC. Unfortunately before i had a chance to try it out, the camera was stolen. Are you familiar with the DS8 format I would love to see a review, Thanks, Louis Burlington On. .
Now I’m a REX 5 owner! I did manage to get a Cheap (for a REX 5) body from ebay back in October. It turns out the spring belt that’s supposed to rotate the take up spool was broken so along with the repair and CLA I pretty much ended up paying what a REX 5 normally costs. And I still haven’t bought RX lenses for it yet lol. Oh well, I’m really excited how this is gonna turn out!
Very thorough! Maybe I missed it but I don't think you covered the claw re-design, which is one of the most important evolutionary steps in the history of the Bolex. When they introduced the "trailing claw".
Hello - I own a Bolex 16m non reflex camera and I can't find any videos about it. Im curious why this model was left out? Was it not a notable model? Awesome channel keep up the good work.
Well, as an amateur to an amateur, here are some rough guidelines: There are overall three steps in black and white negative development. 1) The developer This develops the image and gets it to show up on the film 2) The stop bath This stops the development process entirely, and removes leftover chemicals 3) The fixer solution This adds a layer of protection to your film so you can handle it in daylight The developer you can get many very different types of, and you can get really experimental there. The stop bath is pretty basic, and i've heard that many repeated rinses with water can do the job. The fixer is kinda the same as in it's pretty straight forward, but for this you need a fixer, typically some sodiumthiosulfate dissolved in water, also known as hypo or plain hypo. You can get additional steps such as a wetting agent, but these are the absolute minimal. Then there are variables like temperature, which for amateur work is fine being kept at like 20 degrees celsius room temperature, and the time these chemicals are sitting for. Normally, with developing, you can overdevelop or underdevelop the film, also known as push and pull (or the other way around, not sure tbh) which basically alters the contrast, helpful if you've underexposed or overexposed a bit too much. This is normally done by increasing or decreasing the temperature or time the chemicals sit in the tank with the film. This is a rough guide, and you should research every single step, but this should get you going.
@@srenhaandbk7904 thanks. I already develop stills at home, but I'm really asking about the way to take 15m of film inside the tank and be evenly developed.
For super 8 you need a special tank to do it properly such as a lomo tank. You can’t really fit 50 feet of film inside a tank like a Patterson that’s designed for 35mm stills.
Analog Resurgence Hey man! Perfect video as always! I’ve just bought a Bolex and is signed 137443. Is a Reflex i think, because there is an AR lens on it. Can you confirm it please?
@@baloup571 You cannot tell which model it is from the serial number. AR stands for anti reflection. Lenses designed for reflex cameras have DV or RX on them
Hi Noah,Nice video. You have a nice informative relaxed presenting style.I recently purchased a 1957 Bolex H-16 Reflex single perf camera, brought it to the city and filmed around my city.When I got home and checked the film it had twirled up around inside the machine and jammed.I thought maybe I had not closed the loop formers or something, but some of the film remained, so I'm using that as a practice roll.That film was totalled! It was Kodak 500T at 24fps.Can you tell me if I can use a Bell & Howell Lumax 1 inch f/1.9 lens or any other lens on this Bolex camera or will it look blurry when the film is sent back to me? I have a 10mm Tevidon lens but it looks blurry through the viewfinder and I don't think I can remove the viewfinder for a CLA or clean.Great videos! Will look up more of your clips.Dublin,Ireland
Just got my first super 8 camera today!!!! Popped in some batteries and I think it works!!! I’m super stoked!!cant wait to shoot some film through it.... was that place that sells film and development packages... called pro 8 ??i want to project my movies.... so now I’m looking for a good deal on a projector as well... lol
Hey can anyone help.. I have a sankyo es-25xl.... and I have ektrachrome 100 d in it.... and when I shoot outside the light meter gage in the viewfinder is going into the over exposed zone...and inside it shows about in the center.... do I need to manually lock the exposer controller in the middle of the dial for the best results? Or just let the camera pick it?? I do not want to screw up this film... it’s so expensive.... plus I bought two more blocks of film to film my daughter’s graduation... and I want to get it right.... help...!!
Sir Thank u fr all of ur such presentations Sir In which model of Bolex there is a Reverse crank ing scope available by default...and if it is nt away from the matters presented sooo beautifully ...sir Polaroid sx 70 ..I think model or the series M mentioning is correct..they had an instant slide or transparency and they also offered negative images options ...since many like me want to be in old school like enjoying film based imaging bt facing difficulties in the large length film processing The Polaroid immidiate after their sx nt been in the trade...despite an instant imaging still useful to individual concern..despite digiimaging speed and almost stat sharing is a debatable winners... Sir atleast some options be we find to be back to the Basic and had a polar large length instant positive upon film sorts acetate or poly one may able to install a high costs in conventional cine film demands.. so to me it will not the Reverse run bt atleast some cine cam and easier processing ar Home level with some sorts of sound handling and Edit at an affordable budjet will be a most happy moments... Sir pl time to time let u present basic cine film shooting be digi cinematography existing bt when film exposing was only way fr large screen display so Such camera as cine cam as ur time titine presenting is sooo useful Thanks sir
The model found to buy does not have a frame counter and I didn’t see that covered in your review. Do you know what model it might be? Thanks for a great video series
These videos are great! Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I was wondering if you know much about intervalometers made for these cameras, and if so which 16mm Bolex cameras can be used with them? This is for shooting controlled long exposure/single frame stop motion. Seems like they would need something relatively mechanical for these older h16 models?
Well, now you've dug a hole for yourself until you make an 8mm Bolex models overview (hopefully including the ill-fated H9 model for completionists sake)😂 great video!
Noah, if you purchase a REX 5 with the external motor does that mean the Bolex will run for longer than 30 seconds? Also, the crystal sync drive doesn't necessary have to hook up to an external tape recorder. I think it can run on its own if you want to shoot digital audio separately. Is that correct? Or can you run XLR cables from the sync motor to a modern digital audio recorder?
An external motor will allow for longer shots beyond 30 seconds, and if that motor is crystal sync then yes you can just record audio separately and then sync them up later in the edit. Usually if the motor has an XLR plug then it's for powering the motor, not for plugging into a recorder. The motor will require a battery/power source of some kind.
Things of beauty built like a tank. I have my late Pop's H8 Reflex. Had it CLAd & had fun sourcing the special prime lens trio & compatible French zoom. Is C-mounted like the 16mm brethren .. but 16mm lenses incompatible.
Hey man I recently got a bolex h16 I believe my serial number is 59796 I also got a vario switar 18-86mm lens to go with it... im having a little hard time mounting my lens since that's the only one I currently have to use for my camera, the middle piece of my bolex is preventing my lens to be flushed all the way in, do you have any tips?
Hello , good video . I have a weird Bolex . It says H16 Reflex on the tag outside top right and nothing on the inner magazine door . It is identifyable , through your explanations and foto's in this video , as a H16 Rex4 1965 , but the previous owner had some sort of lightmeter build in afterwards , that meters the light through the reflex . I have it more than a decade now , but don't have the money to buy and develop film , which i would gladly do . I just take pleasure , much pleasure , in owning it and once in a while handling it . And now , after seeing your video , knowing that i have a quite valued model , even more . Thank you for the video . Erwin , Belgium .
Hey I have a question! I'm about to purchase a Bolex H16 Rex 1 but it is only the body and comes with no lenses. What lens would you recommend I purchase for the body? I'm used to shooting photos on a 50mm lens so a 50mm equivalent would be awesome!
So a similar focal length for 16mm in comparison to a 50mm lens for 35mm would be a 25mm! That's a pretty standard focal length for using with the Bolex and you can't go wrong with a Switar 25mm f/1.4 lens!
I still have my Bolex S 4, the spring gave ghost but I do have a sync motor for it (sans sync crystal). Bolexes are really best for spring wound filming of silent footage, which is what they were used for by news cameramen back in the day. When you add motors to them you're really better off with an Arri S for silent filming and something like a CP-16 for sync sound. The over-under grip gets pretty taxing when the camera is weighed by a motor. Too bad Bolex never made an H-35, that would be nicer than the Eyemo which is as rough as a sewing machine.
Really fascinating topic. Though. if I am very honest with myself. There probably isn't a real good reason for me to ever get one of these things. They look good and make good images. But.... the cost is just not something I can spare at this time.
In general I wouldn't get too hung up on the whole "double perf" thing... there are many places that will modify old 16mm cameras to single perf, it just adds extra cost to the camera but should cost a lot less than a super16 conversion. some old 16mm camera that run at 16fps can also be modified to run at 24fps, but not all cameras can be modified for such. also camera's that use 50foot reels can be re-spooled no different as re-spooling 100ft reel from a 400ft roll, ya get used to it My mantra is "If you see any 16mm camera in good running condition for a fair price, buy it" sure Bolexs are awesome cameras, but dont let that sway you if you find a good non-bolex camera. if it helps get you into the format and experiment, learn and grow then go for it... just dont pay excessive amounts for non bolex amateur 16mm cameras..... and stay away from 16mm Magazine cameras except from the Russian ones that can be manually reloaded in the dark
I wish I had known Bolexes were gong to get so popular. I've had 1 non reflex, 2 Rex 4's and 1 EBM go through my hands over the last 40 years. I'm told that much of this is due to collectors and ebay'ers inflating the price. As much as I loved the Bolex, if I ever got in a position to shoot 16mm, it wouldn't be my first choice. For the price of a Rex 4 without lenses I could get an Arri or Eclair fully loaded.
Not what I see on eBay nowadays… (maybe the prices skyrocketed in the last couple years?) I can’t find a Eclair NPR or Arri S16 fully loaded under $2000 or $2500 these days (talking inflated eBay prices here)
Until you get into the super 8 era then their stuff is questionable…especially their later autoeat* excuse me autoload stuff… I think B&H had better cameras than Kodak, and Kodak had better projectors than B&H especially when you get into the 70’s.
BTW, the film magazines that let you shoot 400' rolls aren't worth it and neither is that Tobin Crystal sync motor. I had it all, 2 400' magazines with sound blimp, Tobin Motor, etc. And it was all just a waste of time to get setup and to manage while shooting. The motor kind of makes you waste film. You get really good at being precise with your shots if you're only using the built in winding mechanism. Also, you can get good synched sound with short shots using just the winding mechanism. It starts being unreliable towards the end of the windup time but if your audio is before that, it will be fine. I eventually go rid of the bulky accessories that took away from the best feature of this camera (you wind it up and shoot. That easy).
@@AnalogResurgence Hey thanks, $39 aint bad for a roll. I happened to get a leader a while back in pretty good condition, will def try it out. do you know if there is a way to mount other lenses on it, maybe a anamorphic or vintage?
Great information. Here's an easy way to tell the difference between an 8mm and 16mm H model Bolex: look in the film chamber. If the posts for the feed/take up reels are round, they're for 8mm spools. If squared off, for 16mm spools. Also, many of the RX cameras have separate optical viewfinders on the film door, much like their non-reflex brethren, since the reflex viewfinder with a stopped down lens is often too dim for easy use. The reflex viewfinder is fine for focusing, but not so much for shooting.
Oh Noah, i love you man :). I am an aspiring cinematographer and after finishing an intensive short course in 16/35mm film familiarisation at NFTS, i felt this urge to continue working with the film, and your videos pushed me even further to finally make this decision and buy a 16mm film camera. Now i am a 'mother' of Bolex H16 Rex4, and i cannot be happier. That's it, we're all one big Bolex family now :))
Jogged in to the real world,at the end,there.I kind of presumed I was watching a video made in another age ... like,a month or two ago.Excellent work, Noah.Cheers!
I've been a Bolex user for over 40 years. My first model was an early double perf. I later got a model M4 which came with a large zoom lens with a reflex side finder. I got a single frame motor for it to shoot stop motion animation. Finally I got a Rex 4. I bought it from a German owner who had it refurbished at the Bolex factory along with adding a magazine saddle on top. Essentially making it a sort of Rex 5. I also got a good animation drive and other accessories such as a matte box.
any ideas of where to get one reliably?
Not even lying, I just found one at a garage sale for 5 dollars. It is an 8mm, though.
It's also such a good looking camera, so pretty ! I live 50 miles from the Bolex hometown (Yverdon) thanks for your amazing channel !
Je suis aussi un peu de la région (Bienne). Malheureusement Bolex International à Yverdon ne répond plus et leur téléphone est débranché. Dommage. Si tu connais une ressource en Suisse pour des pièces/accessoires et un service de révision je suis preneur...
@@henrigraber2741 mince alors ils ont vraiment coulé coulé... tu m’apprends un truc je me faisais une joie de les contacter des que je j aurais ma caméra... je suis à Genève si jamais je trouve une solution je ferais signe 👍🏻
@@HoShIfox19 Pour les réparations il y a encore M. Baumgartner. Mais il est en semi-retraite.
VERY informative! thank you for the historical perspective. I was going to buy a bolex until i learned so much about the early models.
Love the style of your show, informal and enthusiastic!
Damn! One of the best episode so far!
A bought a Bolex not too long ago and gladly I did my research before buying one from the same site you referenced! Great video, I didn’t think they’d have made so many models!
What model do you have, I’m looking for one to buy on eBay rn
9:22 this is the version I purchased from eBay a 1957 model (s/n 147247) Can’t wait to fool around with this thing. I gotta find out how to oil one of these property for smooth performance
How do you know all this? Impressive!
Thank you for this video, it was incredible helpful. About to buy a 16mm film camera, either a bolex or a K3
Brilliant video! Subscribed.
Let’s see some of your footage ! 👍
Thx for Your Knowledge! Great job !
You are just super cool! You made the Bolex H16 story totally "flat" for anyone to see with a glance!
I have the same exact non-reflex model you own, it's an amazing camera indeed
Another excellente presentation to stimulate my aqusition syndrome. Been looking the Bolex on Ebay, but maybe I will go with the Krasnogorsk G3.
I’d really like to see you do a video on the different B&H Filmo models, I haven’t been able to find a whole lot of information on the model I have.
Glad you mentioned the Bolex Pro, maybe you should do an episode on rare cameras like that and the Beaulieu News 16.
Hello , thats really a great video just a the other clips I have seen, Good knowledge. Therefore I want to ask you about 25 fps. Many years ago I used Super 8 film, now I own and use two Canon Scoopic 16mm cameras, one with 24 fps the other one with the special television version of 25 fps. Besides the hint, that 24 fps looks more cinematic and 25 fps are easier to edit after scanning, do you have any other knowledge about the use of 25 fps on 16mm stock? Thank you very much for any hint.
Kind regards Thomas
Excellent review of Bolex film cameras. I owned a H8RX one of the last made picked it up in ST Croix Switzerland 1971? Subsequently had
a angenoux 8-64 lens fitted. Some years later I had it converted to use Double S8 film in Vancouver BC. Unfortunately before i had a chance to try it out, the camera was stolen.
Are you familiar with the DS8 format I would love to see a review, Thanks, Louis Burlington On.
.
Now I’m a REX 5 owner! I did manage to get a Cheap (for a REX 5) body from ebay back in October. It turns out the spring belt that’s supposed to rotate the take up spool was broken so along with the repair and CLA I pretty much ended up paying what a REX 5 normally costs. And I still haven’t bought RX lenses for it yet lol. Oh well, I’m really excited how this is gonna turn out!
Very thorough! Maybe I missed it but I don't think you covered the claw re-design, which is one of the most important evolutionary steps in the history of the Bolex. When they introduced the "trailing claw".
Hello - I own a Bolex 16m non reflex camera and I can't find any videos about it. Im curious why this model was left out? Was it not a notable model? Awesome channel keep up the good work.
Do you know a way to develop s8 at home with a normal tank?
Well, as an amateur to an amateur, here are some rough guidelines:
There are overall three steps in black and white negative development.
1) The developer
This develops the image and gets it to show up on the film
2) The stop bath
This stops the development process entirely, and removes leftover chemicals
3) The fixer solution
This adds a layer of protection to your film so you can handle it in daylight
The developer you can get many very different types of, and you can get really experimental there. The stop bath is pretty basic, and i've heard that many repeated rinses with water can do the job. The fixer is kinda the same as in it's pretty straight forward, but for this you need a fixer, typically some sodiumthiosulfate dissolved in water, also known as hypo or plain hypo. You can get additional steps such as a wetting agent, but these are the absolute minimal.
Then there are variables like temperature, which for amateur work is fine being kept at like 20 degrees celsius room temperature, and the time these chemicals are sitting for. Normally, with developing, you can overdevelop or underdevelop the film, also known as push and pull (or the other way around, not sure tbh) which basically alters the contrast, helpful if you've underexposed or overexposed a bit too much. This is normally done by increasing or decreasing the temperature or time the chemicals sit in the tank with the film.
This is a rough guide, and you should research every single step, but this should get you going.
@@srenhaandbk7904 thanks. I already develop stills at home, but I'm really asking about the way to take 15m of film inside the tank and be evenly developed.
For super 8 you need a special tank to do it properly such as a lomo tank. You can’t really fit 50 feet of film inside a tank like a Patterson that’s designed for 35mm stills.
Analog Resurgence Hey man! Perfect video as always! I’ve just bought a Bolex and is signed 137443. Is a Reflex i think, because there is an AR lens on it. Can you confirm it please?
@@baloup571 You cannot tell which model it is from the serial number. AR stands for anti reflection. Lenses designed for reflex cameras have DV or RX on them
Waiting for the Regular 8 cameras presentation
Hi Noah,Nice video. You have a nice informative relaxed presenting style.I recently purchased a 1957 Bolex H-16 Reflex single perf camera, brought it to the city and filmed around my city.When I got home and checked the film it had twirled up around inside the machine and jammed.I thought maybe I had not closed the loop formers or something, but some of the film remained, so I'm using that as a practice roll.That film was totalled! It was Kodak 500T at 24fps.Can you tell me if I can use a Bell & Howell Lumax 1 inch f/1.9 lens or any other lens on this Bolex camera or will it look blurry when the film is sent back to me? I have a 10mm Tevidon lens but it looks blurry through the viewfinder and I don't think I can remove the viewfinder for a CLA or clean.Great videos! Will look up more of your clips.Dublin,Ireland
Just got my first super 8 camera today!!!! Popped in some batteries and I think it works!!! I’m super stoked!!cant wait to shoot some film through it.... was that place that sells film and development packages... called pro 8 ??i want to project my movies.... so now I’m looking for a good deal on a projector as well... lol
Hey can anyone help.. I have a sankyo es-25xl.... and I have ektrachrome 100 d in it.... and when I shoot outside the light meter gage in the viewfinder is going into the over exposed zone...and inside it shows about in the center.... do I need to manually lock the exposer controller in the middle of the dial for the best results? Or just let the camera pick it?? I do not want to screw up this film... it’s so expensive.... plus I bought two more blocks of film to film my daughter’s graduation... and I want to get it right.... help...!!
Sir Thank u fr all of ur such presentations
Sir In which model of Bolex there is a Reverse crank ing scope available by default...and if it is nt away from the matters presented sooo beautifully ...sir Polaroid sx 70 ..I think model or the series M mentioning is correct..they had an instant slide or transparency and they also offered negative images options ...since many like me want to be in old school like enjoying film based imaging bt facing difficulties in the large length film processing
The Polaroid immidiate after their sx nt been in the trade...despite an instant imaging still useful to individual concern..despite digiimaging speed and almost stat sharing is a debatable winners...
Sir atleast some options be we find to be back to the Basic and had a polar large length instant positive upon film sorts acetate or poly one may able to install a high costs in conventional cine film demands.. so to me it will not the Reverse run bt atleast some cine cam and easier processing ar Home level with some sorts of sound handling and Edit at an affordable budjet will be a most happy moments...
Sir pl time to time let u present basic cine film shooting be digi cinematography existing bt when film exposing was only way fr large screen display so
Such camera as cine cam as ur time titine presenting is sooo useful
Thanks sir
Yea, they are lovely, I also have a few of those myself
The model found to buy does not have a frame counter and I didn’t see that covered in your review. Do you know what model it might be? Thanks for a great video series
Hi, I'm wondering if u think I can use a 100ft Vision 500T cartdrige in a Bolex H16 with NO modifications to S16. Thanks and great work!
I have a h16, I'm looking for the focus eye piece. very hard to find. I can send pictures. thanks
It’s worth noting that modifying an early Bolex from double to single perf is very easy
These videos are great! Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I was wondering if you know much about intervalometers made for these cameras, and if so which 16mm Bolex cameras can be used with them? This is for shooting controlled long exposure/single frame stop motion. Seems like they would need something relatively mechanical for these older h16 models?
The bane of any first year ryerson film student
Also want to do a video with the H8 (Rex) models?
Well, now you've dug a hole for yourself until you make an 8mm Bolex models overview (hopefully including the ill-fated H9 model for completionists sake)😂 great video!
My bolex has a non reflex body but the viewfinder is removable. Do you know what that could be?
Noah, if you purchase a REX 5 with the external motor does that mean the Bolex will run for longer than 30 seconds? Also, the crystal sync drive doesn't necessary have to hook up to an external tape recorder. I think it can run on its own if you want to shoot digital audio separately. Is that correct? Or can you run XLR cables from the sync motor to a modern digital audio recorder?
An external motor will allow for longer shots beyond 30 seconds, and if that motor is crystal sync then yes you can just record audio separately and then sync them up later in the edit. Usually if the motor has an XLR plug then it's for powering the motor, not for plugging into a recorder. The motor will require a battery/power source of some kind.
I’ve got a H16 reflex with an external finder as well, does anyone have a reason why one would have an external finder on a reflex one?
I am considering getting a Rex 4 or 5 is there a big difference in the viewfinder between the models?
There's not a big difference between the two that I'm aware of, they should both offer about the same quality of image when looking through it!
Things of beauty built like a tank. I have my late Pop's H8 Reflex. Had it CLAd & had fun sourcing the special prime lens trio & compatible French zoom. Is C-mounted like the 16mm brethren .. but 16mm lenses incompatible.
You should do a series on the Revere 16mm cameras.
Hey man I recently got a bolex h16 I believe my serial number is 59796
I also got a vario switar 18-86mm lens to go with it... im having a little hard time mounting my lens since that's the only one I currently have to use for my camera, the middle piece of my bolex is preventing my lens to be flushed all the way in, do you have any tips?
I Have a Question! A Bolex H16 Deluxe with a 83.550 can be a one perf? (Because it's after 70. and its from 1952)
Take care of the 60hz hum in your sound... Great episode anyway
Hello , good video . I have a weird Bolex . It says H16 Reflex on the tag outside top right and nothing on the inner magazine door . It is identifyable , through your explanations and foto's in this video , as a H16 Rex4 1965 , but the previous owner had some sort of lightmeter build in afterwards , that meters the light through the reflex . I have it more than a decade now , but don't have the money to buy and develop film , which i would gladly do . I just take pleasure , much pleasure , in owning it and once in a while handling it . And now , after seeing your video , knowing that i have a quite valued model , even more . Thank you for the video . Erwin , Belgium .
that's a rex 5 on the right at 14:00
Can you do a video on that motor? Can seem to find a decent vidya on them.
Hey I have a question! I'm about to purchase a Bolex H16 Rex 1 but it is only the body and comes with no lenses. What lens would you recommend I purchase for the body? I'm used to shooting photos on a 50mm lens so a 50mm equivalent would be awesome!
So a similar focal length for 16mm in comparison to a 50mm lens for 35mm would be a 25mm! That's a pretty standard focal length for using with the Bolex and you can't go wrong with a Switar 25mm f/1.4 lens!
I just one on eBay! Only $75! Has a case, light meter, but missing the viewfinder on the top. It also has that weird shorter crank handle.
It is dumb to buy old bolex super 8 with 5 cartiges, because I saw some yt clips?
Will it fill like that after the excitement is gone?
My Comment is amazing just how do you know all this stuff - A great presentation!
I still have my Bolex S 4, the spring gave ghost but I do have a sync motor for it (sans sync crystal). Bolexes are really best for spring wound filming of silent footage, which is what they were used for by news cameramen back in the day. When you add motors to them you're really better off with an Arri S for silent filming and something like a CP-16 for sync sound. The over-under grip gets pretty taxing when the camera is weighed by a motor. Too bad Bolex never made an H-35, that would be nicer than the Eyemo which is as rough as a sewing machine.
I own an H16 Deluxe and have shot with an EBM model Bolex. Wish I owned the EBM...
Really fascinating topic. Though. if I am very honest with myself. There probably isn't a real good reason for me to ever get one of these things. They look good and make good images. But.... the cost is just not something I can spare at this time.
In general I wouldn't get too hung up on the whole "double perf" thing... there are many places that will modify old 16mm cameras to single perf, it just adds extra cost to the camera but should cost a lot less than a super16 conversion. some old 16mm camera that run at 16fps can also be modified to run at 24fps, but not all cameras can be modified for such. also camera's that use 50foot reels can be re-spooled no different as re-spooling 100ft reel from a 400ft roll, ya get used to it
My mantra is "If you see any 16mm camera in good running condition for a fair price, buy it" sure Bolexs are awesome cameras, but dont let that sway you if you find a good non-bolex camera. if it helps get you into the format and experiment, learn and grow then go for it... just dont pay excessive amounts for non bolex amateur 16mm cameras..... and stay away from 16mm Magazine cameras except from the Russian ones that can be manually reloaded in the dark
I wish I had known Bolexes were gong to get so popular. I've had 1 non reflex, 2 Rex 4's and 1 EBM go through my hands over the last 40 years. I'm told that much of this is due to collectors and ebay'ers inflating the price. As much as I loved the Bolex, if I ever got in a position to shoot 16mm, it wouldn't be my first choice. For the price of a Rex 4 without lenses I could get an Arri or Eclair fully loaded.
Not what I see on eBay nowadays… (maybe the prices skyrocketed in the last couple years?) I can’t find a Eclair NPR or Arri S16 fully loaded under $2000 or $2500 these days (talking inflated eBay prices here)
SBM fam
used Bolex in journalism school. I've had 2, loved the both, but their days are gone ...I am a digital guy now and things couldn't be better.
Yes they can: Use both as they are not for same things.
Good thing about bell and Howell, their cameras and projectors are all made of stone
Until you get into the super 8 era then their stuff is questionable…especially their later autoeat* excuse me autoload stuff…
I think B&H had better cameras than Kodak, and Kodak had better projectors than B&H especially when you get into the 70’s.
I hate that once the bolex is loaded you cannot unload it without cutting the film
And mine also jams frequently
You could always re wind the film.
@@richardclement4036 that would be a pain the camera doesn't wind the slack back onto the spool when you rewind it
So it unspools inside
You can unload it without cutting the film, you have to disengage the arms that hold the film on the sprocket wheels.
@@smly1685 That, plus the jamming issue, indicates that you have a malfunctioning camera.
What is your favorite model
I love you
BTW, the film magazines that let you shoot 400' rolls aren't worth it and neither is that Tobin Crystal sync motor. I had it all, 2 400' magazines with sound blimp, Tobin Motor, etc. And it was all just a waste of time to get setup and to manage while shooting. The motor kind of makes you waste film. You get really good at being precise with your shots if you're only using the built in winding mechanism. Also, you can get good synched sound with short shots using just the winding mechanism. It starts being unreliable towards the end of the windup time but if your audio is before that, it will be fine. I eventually go rid of the bulky accessories that took away from the best feature of this camera (you wind it up and shoot. That easy).
You forgot the H16 J
They shot the 1st Texas Chainsaw Masacre in 1974 with a bolex. I don't know which one. They shot in 16mm to save money.
It was an H16 RX5
And another more obscure 16mm which was a lot less big and boxy so I’m assuming for moving shots especially hand held
Now itz teme for a Krassnogorsssk temeline, Comrade.
Q pasa amigos
Spikes ??? - they are called sprockets
So a bolex 16 "leader" is basically useless since its double perf? Yes, No???
Not useless, just a little more limiting. You can get double perf film from a few places such as The Film Photography Project.
@@AnalogResurgence Hey thanks, $39 aint bad for a roll. I happened to get a leader a while back in pretty good condition, will def try it out. do you know if there is a way to mount other lenses on it, maybe a anamorphic or vintage?
scoopic.
1st