Thanks A lot Rob. Love the channel. I’m on the Island also. Was driving my ‘87 K10 with the TBI 305 after doing oil change last night. It was warmed up and running great as usual until it Stalled on me pulling out of a parking lot. It fired back up and got me home, (2 blocks down the road) Parked it, let it idle for about another 10 minutes in the driveway. Went to go around the block and she stalled again 2 houses down. Fired back up got in the driveway and let it idle for another 10 minutes. In neutral i started to give it some throttle and it sputtered and died. The truck idles fine, just wants to fall on its face when i give it gas. Will be reading SES code after work. The channel has been really helpful in keeping these trucks running.
@@AxlesGarage Thanks Rob, Turns out my fuel tank selector valve had gone bad and was stuck on the RH side tank. Wasn’t until i pulled the inlet line off the TBI carb to see what type of fuel pressure I was getting that I found out the tank was full of water! Got her running like a top again!
This was interesting. I never knew this. A Facebook old car group posting showed a jumper that looked like a car key, that used to be a freebie at AutoZone, and the post was that this is how he could check for codes on his 89 Chevy. So I Googled GM OBD1 ( to learn more about this) and your video came up, and it was interesting and well-presented. I have an 88 Aries, and the Chrysler system was similar, just count the flashes of the check engine light, but with this era of Chryslers, all you have to do is switch the key on-off-on-off-on quickly and then count.
I enjoyed your video and that you seem to be quite helpful to help people I also know if you had an NYPD codon and if you're one of New York's finest you deserve a huge attaboy
can u recommmend a scope to use on GM OBD1 trucks from 89 to 95. I know how to use the paper clip to retrieve codes, but so many things can cause the same symptoms on these trucks it drives me crazy. I think If I could see what the fuel trims are doing and when it goes in and out of closed loop, ect would help me figure things out better
@@DMD81773 mt2500, and mtg 2500 and honestly you get quite a bit of info from these compared to almost any other car reader for the ob1 systems,kind of impressive usually the scanner and the gm two cartridges that cover most of them,you can score on like ebay for around $150
ignore my last q,i put the scanner on it and no code came up but i'd still like you to give me your opinion what it might be why my blazer failed the smog test at idle,what would you look for? Thank you axle.
In 94 you have an OBD1 system with an OBD2 connector. Need a specific OBD1 Scanner with proper OBD2 adapter to read codes. You might have to find a mechanic who has one, otherwise the dealer may be your only choice.
I have a 1994 z71 l had 2 codes on my truck one code 13 and code 83. Ok 13 makes sence bc i had a dual exhaust system installed and they didnt put the sensor in. However i noticed i now have code 83 which is a tcc sensor. I fixed the o2 and cleared the computer, now neither code returns. Im confused. Any advice?
Help! I screwed up and tried to start my 1988 K5 blazer with the OBD terminals A and B bridged /shorted, now my truck won’t start but just crank and smells like unburied gas, help me please !!!
Sounds like you lost spark. Start with checking the fuses. If a fuse didn't blow from leaving the OBD port connected (which it shouldn't) then you are gonna have to runn down a no-spark issue.
@@AxlesGarage you are correct, I checked all fuses and none was blown, I then left the truck resting for good 5 hours and disconnected the injector connectors to then crank and finally the truck started for me. I can’t thank you enough for the great advice and support specially while fixing the Big dummy K5!
If you only get code 12, then the PCM has no stored codes, you have to look elsewhere. Check for proper fuel and ignition first. As these truck get older some of the mechanical things that have been there since the beginning will start to go. Cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Recently we found our distributor rotted on the inside causing drive-ability issues.
Checking codes without more sophisticated testers is guessing. You can get codes but you need code repair solutions pertaining to that vehicle. That tester can work for things like IAC or more part specific codes. Get a Actron CP9690 code tester with code connect to diagnose codes. It shows the definite code and part indicated for that car.
Axle's Garage The cheaper tester is good for some codes. First check the radiator because a low radiator can cause CTS codes. For OBDI, cheaper testers can help. But to REALLY do more testing, get one that does more. They are complicated! A bad CTS can cause high idle and throw RPM codes. On a Ford, if you get vacuum at the EGR at idle, replace the charcoal canister purge valve. If you get oxygen sensor running rich codes, replace the MAP sensor. It could also be the CTS. If the engine idles too high, it could be the CTS. Replace parts because they go bad. They cost but it keeps your car running good! If you disconnect the vacuum hose to the EGR and the idle smooths, it's NOT the EGR. It's in the vacuum system.
it's just giving me 12 over and over, so no error codes I guess. It runs but bogs way down. Can't even go over like maybe 20mph, bogs down when I give it gas. Replaced a bunch of stuff and still doing it. I was thinking it's the fuel pump. Replaced damn near everything else lol. Anyone know what's going on with this thing?
Thank you for your video, people like you make a difference in this world by helping out thousands people through TH-cam
Glad to help
Thanks A lot Rob. Love the channel. I’m on the Island also. Was driving my ‘87 K10 with the TBI 305 after doing oil change last night. It was warmed up and running great as usual until it Stalled on me pulling out of a parking lot. It fired back up and got me home, (2 blocks down the road) Parked it, let it idle for about another 10 minutes in the driveway. Went to go around the block and she stalled again 2 houses down. Fired back up got in the driveway and let it idle for another 10 minutes. In neutral i started to give it some throttle and it sputtered and died. The truck idles fine, just wants to fall on its face when i give it gas. Will be reading SES code after work. The channel has been really helpful in keeping these trucks running.
Sounds like you may have a fuel delivery problem, keep us posted.
@@AxlesGarage Thanks Rob, Turns out my fuel tank selector valve had gone bad and was stuck on the RH side tank. Wasn’t until i pulled the inlet line off the TBI carb to see what type of fuel pressure I was getting that I found out the tank was full of water! Got her running like a top again!
Great news
Excellent informative video. Clear and concise. Just picked up a 95 GMC PickUp. Thank you.
Glad we could help. Thanks for watching.
Nice post, just bought an 88 GMC Jimmy for my daughter very helpful had same problem
Glad it helped
A lot of good information. Right to the point. Thanks pal.
Glad it was helpful!
This was interesting. I never knew this. A Facebook old car group posting showed a jumper that looked like a car key, that used to be a freebie at AutoZone, and the post was that this is how he could check for codes on his 89 Chevy. So I Googled GM OBD1 ( to learn more about this) and your video came up, and it was interesting and well-presented. I have an 88 Aries, and the Chrysler system was similar, just count the flashes of the check engine light, but with this era of Chryslers, all you have to do is switch the key on-off-on-off-on quickly and then count.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much for this video it really helped us out on a 95 Suburban we just bought for our son.
Glad I could help
Thank you for producing this video. it was helpful and encouraging. getting started on an '88 Camaro.
Glad to help
Great Job! I'm going to put this knoweldge to work on my 1989 GMC c2500 pickup.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the great video! I used the paperclip and received a 13 code, now to google it ..
Glad to help
I enjoyed your video and that you seem to be quite helpful to help people I also know if you had an NYPD codon and if you're one of New York's finest you deserve a huge attaboy
Thanks for watching and yes Retired NYPD
Great thanks , I'm about to purchase a 1988 suburban.
Wanted to check it out thoroughly
Glad I could help
Great info, Thanks brother.
Glad to help
can u recommmend a scope to use on GM OBD1 trucks from 89 to 95. I know how to use the paper clip to retrieve codes, but so many things can cause the same symptoms on these trucks it drives me crazy. I think If I could see what the fuel trims are doing and when it goes in and out of closed loop, ect would help me figure things out better
Sorry never used a scope. Backyard guy. Thanks for watching.
Find an old snap on red brick. They have to be cheap by now
texas tough I have a 1994 Chevy truck I did the safety pin test and it flashe 1234..six time you know what CV one it is
@@DMD81773 mt2500, and mtg 2500 and honestly you get quite a bit of info from these compared to almost any other car reader for the ob1 systems,kind of impressive usually the scanner and the gm two cartridges that cover most of them,you can score on like ebay for around $150
What kind of obd scanner are you using?
Can this be done with the truck on? The service engine light only comes on after driving, and is gone after restarting
Maybe. Also the code may get stored, so it will come up even after you shut it off.
I have an 88 blazer axle,and it failed smog the other day for the idle emissions,would this obd1 scanner and google still tell me what the issue is?
ignore my last q,i put the scanner on it and no code came up but i'd still like you to give me your opinion what it might be why my blazer failed the smog test at idle,what would you look for? Thank you axle.
Any idea how to do on a LT 1 1994? If I jump the two terminals it only kicks on the electric fans and does not give me codes
In 94 you have an OBD1 system with an OBD2 connector. Need a specific OBD1 Scanner with proper OBD2 adapter to read codes. You might have to find a mechanic who has one, otherwise the dealer may be your only choice.
ha! the old code 32 EGR valve. I used to do the paper clip method on my 88 IROC! Wish I could find a clean K-5!
Search, they are still out there, but prices are going up. Thanks for watching.
I have a 1994 z71 l had 2 codes on my truck one code 13 and code 83. Ok 13 makes sence bc i had a dual exhaust system installed and they didnt put the sensor in. However i noticed i now have code 83 which is a tcc sensor. I fixed the o2 and cleared the computer, now neither code returns. Im confused. Any advice?
No codes right now?? Then good, don't look for problems that may have fixed themselves.
@@AxlesGarage thank u buddy for the feedback
Help! I screwed up and tried to start my 1988 K5 blazer with the OBD terminals A and B bridged /shorted, now my truck won’t start but just crank and smells like unburied gas, help me please !!!
Sounds like you lost spark. Start with checking the fuses. If a fuse didn't blow from leaving the OBD port connected (which it shouldn't) then you are gonna have to runn down a no-spark issue.
@@AxlesGarage you are correct, I checked all fuses and none was blown, I then left the truck resting for good 5 hours and disconnected the injector connectors to then crank and finally the truck started for me. I can’t thank you enough for the great advice and support specially while fixing the Big dummy K5!
great video bro i tried this message but only get code 12. engine back fires after start up
If you only get code 12, then the PCM has no stored codes, you have to look elsewhere. Check for proper fuel and ignition first. As these truck get older some of the mechanical things that have been there since the beginning will start to go. Cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Recently we found our distributor rotted on the inside causing drive-ability issues.
Thanks for the great info
Any time!
Great video. Will that tool check "ANTI LOCK BRAKE" light?
I don't think they were that advanced, but heck give it a try and let us know.
Thanks from saudi Arabia
You are welcome
Checking codes without more sophisticated testers is guessing. You can get codes but you need code repair solutions pertaining to that vehicle. That tester can work for things like IAC or more part specific codes. Get a Actron CP9690 code tester with code connect to diagnose codes. It shows the definite code and part indicated for that car.
Sure, a better tester would work, but we are trying to keep it simple for the average back yard guy when we can. Thanks for watching.
Axle's Garage The cheaper tester is good for some codes. First check the radiator because a low radiator can cause CTS codes. For OBDI, cheaper testers can help. But to REALLY do more testing, get one that does more. They are complicated! A bad CTS can cause high idle and throw RPM codes. On a Ford, if you get vacuum at the EGR at idle, replace the charcoal canister purge valve. If you get oxygen sensor running rich codes, replace the MAP sensor. It could also be the CTS. If the engine idles too high, it could be the CTS. Replace parts because they go bad. They cost but it keeps your car running good! If you disconnect the vacuum hose to the EGR and the idle smooths, it's NOT the EGR. It's in the vacuum system.
I have trans am 1991 TPI 305 , can OBD1 scan tool work on it ?
Yes
i gave u a thumbs up cause ur from brookyn!
Thanks for watching!
The ODB as you can see. 😂
Thank you nice video
Glad you liked it
it's just giving me 12 over and over, so no error codes I guess. It runs but bogs way down. Can't even go over like maybe 20mph, bogs down when I give it gas. Replaced a bunch of stuff and still doing it. I was thinking it's the fuel pump. Replaced damn near everything else lol. Anyone know what's going on with this thing?
12's indicated no codes. You need to determine why it 'bogs'. Fuel, spark, Timing, etc.
Unhooking the battery doesn't work it dids clear my code on my 94 S10 blazer.
Thanks for watching
code 32 EGR-related selenoid could be the problem. I own a 1994 chevy Silverado and it did the same thing.
Thanks for watching
Badass Blazer
Thank you
Mine just kept blinking 12 forever
That means you have no codes in memory
I USE A paperclip . best tool in my box.codes show on dash
Yep!! Thanks for Watching.
That's not a code scanner it's just a jumper in that plastic case is a wire that connects the pins
Yes you are correct.