K5 Blazer Tailgate Window Troubleshooting and Repair Part 1. The first in a series, looks like we will have to throw some money at this one, not an easy fix.
Your videos are the best and thank you. The K5 was the best truck IMO. Has a '86. I bought in West Hampton BCH back in the day. Now I have a beautiful '90 Blazer in excellent condition with 70K original miles.
Another concern for window operation (both the key switch and inside cab control switch), is the interlock switch on the tailgate. If the gate does not fully close, the interlock prevents the window from going up with the track in the top misaligned to the gate. I have a bad switch on my 85 K20 Suburban. It was intermittent so took me a while to find.
I have a 90 model blazer with the same problems after checking it out my rollers are bad too in fact one was gone having problem finding new ones wondering where you got yours thanks
So, any updates on this? I'm in the process of restoring my tailgate myself. I just ordered a new lock cylinder, as my key also doesn't do anything when turned in the rear lock. I bought a new window motor so I hope it will help to correct the stalling problem. On a side note, my internal window channels, particularly the driver's side channel, was so rusted it broke in half when I removed it. I'm glad LMC has those.
Yes, we plan on making some new videos with regards when the weather starts to clear up. As it turns out, we had a weak old motor, worn channel weatherstripping making the motor work harder, and worn rollers on the regulator. Additionally, a rotted harness connection made the rear key switch not operate the rear window, and the interior switch worked sporadically due to a bad neutral safety switch, as it's only designed to operate when vehicle is in park/neutral. Thanks for watching.
Those second generation K5 Blazers & Jimmys are rare nowadays, & same with the seventh generation Suburbans. The third generation C/K series pickups with the crew cabs are the most rare nowadays, but the regular cab ones on the other hand I still see out on the roads today.
My window seems to be off the track, each time I either use the switch on the dash or the tailgate it makes a higher pitched noise but no movement, it seems that the engine keeps disconnecting.
@@AxlesGarage I removed the middle panel and unfortunately the issues are still unreachable, is it safe to remove the panel that covers the rest of the mechanics or will that damage it?
Man, the window on my 80 K5 works, but it’s tilted about 1/4 inch and won’t go all the way down (looking from the rear of the truck) the right side sticks up & going up the left side has that small gap of about 1/4 inch. Just really bugging me & it leaks a little in a hard rain. Any follow up to this issue would be a great help. Thanks
We have had the window down since just after the video (we installed a soft top). However, it looks like worn 'tracks' and regulator rollers is usually the cause of what you are describing. No way to know for sure until you take it apart and inspect. Thanks for watching.
Axle's Garage I’ve been looking at my tailgate and I’m really not sure how to get that whole assembly out? Watched another video and said it comes out on the side. But I didn’t see any access panels on the sides. Does it come out of from the top? Thanks guys.
They were very loud new from the factory. Horrible motor and design. Take the access panel off and make sure everything looks ok, with nothing obvious 'scratching' into something. Try lubing the moving parts with white grease and lube the weatherstrip channels with silicone spray.
I have a 90 suburban , not hearing the motor working at all the window is stuck down can’t access the motor or anything because the glass is in the way , is there any way to manually lift the window for I can have access to make the repair , at this point Im honestly considering just shattering the window
Take the cable off and chuck it into a drill to spin the window up. Don't break the glass. You can get it up, just takes a little patience and possibly some disassembly
Hello I had to take mine apart today because power window would not go back up. It was getting slower and sometimes would just stop. Well the cable going to window regulator from motor was the trouble. The cable incased in its tube was jammed. Also watch out if you remove the cable which you shouldn’t the regulator is sprung loaded and once I removed that cable it sprung up. Almost lost a finger.
I'm having the same problem with my K5 electric window and I was wondering how did you get the cable off the regulator cuz I'm having trouble getting it off
I have a question, hopefully you can help me, I have a 1989 GMC Jimmy and i would like to know how to remove the wing glass on the HardTop. Also im missing most of my Bolts on the HardTop that holds and secures it can you please help. Thank you in advance.
Just what I needed..but question...how did you remove that carpet from the tailgate..I have the same thing on mine and do not want to ruin it..thank-you brother!
ok this is my dilemma. both the switch in the cab and the tailgate switch work . it just makes a clicking noise both directions. i took the cable off the motor and attached it to my drill with no resolve. it would not budge either direction. the tailgate is closed and window is up obviously i am stuck any help would be greatly appreciated
i can’t get my back window to go down while it is up. i’m not sure if i should take of the tail gate cover from the inside or what. someone give me an idea?
If you have power to the window motor, its usually the tailgate interlock that is the problem. Thats the switch that only allows the window to operate when the tailgate is closed.
My 83 key switch never worked. But the dash switch works. But over the last year, sometimes it won't go up until after a few tries. Maybe because I open the tailgate and shut it. The motor clicks when the switch tries to lower it (from the lowest position), but makes no sound when the switch tries to raise. Eventually, it works itself out. But today no luck. Any ideas?
There is a sensor in the tailgate that prevents the switches from operating when the tailgate is not in the shut position. Make sure that sensor is working properly.
So my rear window came down four inches, the power switch works, you can hear it trying to work but the window doesnt move. Could it be because it fell off the track?
Did you get it to work? did replacing your window regulator help? I'm having same issue with my 79K5. I'm thinking I should just get a new window regulator motor.
Changing the motor helped and we found a broken connector on a power feed under the hood that was the cause of the inoperable inside switch. We wound up taking the glass out as we have the soft-top on year round.
Sometimes, the window interlock is out of adjustment. Also if the latch is stuck try pushing the tailgate in while at the same time trying to lift the latch up. I used to have a square that needed that method to open. Thanks for watching.
Anybody know what the name of that song was at the beginning of the video that the guy had before we started talking I've always wanted to know what the name of that song was cuz I wanted to try to play it but good envigor the name out
I have a question I am hoping someone can answer me here. I still own my 1990 K5 Black Blazer with Gray Interior. Purchased it back in 1995 at five years old. Its been a great truck. It has less then 70k miles on it and is pretty much rust free all around. I don't use the vehicles much at all and it sits most of the time nowadays outside. It use to be garage kept years ago. Anyway the last time I was in my Blazer the back window would not go down. Doesn't go down with the switch at the dash nor does it go down with the key switch in the back tailgate. At this point the snow is just about melted and Spring is almost here in the Northeast so I want to check it out soon. What do I need to do to get the tail gate down with the glass all the way up? At the moment I have done no research other then come to this You Tube Video to read and view the problem you are having. I guess I will start checking fuses under the dash first. Does anyone know of any other fuses that may have something to do with the back window that may be under the hood? I doubt it but thought I would ask before I take a look. Any ideas from someone who realizes my situation is appreciated.
First check fuses like you said, then check the 2 heavy wires under tailgate. Power and ground. Those wires will go through a few junctions. The plastic clip junctions usually fail. I had the one under the hood near the power booster fail, not delivering power to the window motor.
@@AxlesGarage Thanks for the quick reply. After posting I walked outside to the truck being I needed to put a new vehicle registration in it. I tried the Switch on the dash and you can hear it want to raise the motor up and down. It may budge the window a 1/16 of a inch before it stops. Went behind the tailgate and didn't notice anything with that switch to lower the window. For the heck of it I tried to start the engine and it was dead. At that point I am thinking. The battery is old but like with many of my vehicles I don't drive much I keep a Battery Tender on them to keep them charged up but I also know it doesn't mean a thing if the battery is past it time especially after a cold winter like we just had. Right now it is dark out. Either tomorrow or this weekend I am going to pull my Work Van in front of it just to put booster cables on the battery and try the window motor switch on the dash again. The battery was dead like I thought being I put my "Load Tester" on it and it couldn't take any kind of a load at all. I will get back to you here to let you know how I made out. I may even pick up a new battery tomorrow and throw it in at some point I know its needed anyway. That battery could be 10 years old I will have to check. I have had batteries last even longer just by leaving a battery tender on them keeping them charged up not giving them any time to get sulfated.
Put a new battery in today it needed one bad. The switch at the dash works fine up or down. I can hear the back window want to go up or down but it will not move. The back switch in the tailgate works fine you can hear it try to work the window down or up but the Window still won't budge. I don't think I have a electrical problem at this point. Seems like something might of snapped and won't bring the back window up or down. Has anyone been in this situation? Curious if I can get into the tailgate from inside the vehicle with the tailgate up?
Finally got to it yesterday. Unscrewed the cable from the motor and the motor worked with the dash switch without a problem both ways. Couldn't move the cable by hand so for the heck of it I kept shooting WD-40 down into the cable. Took a drill and connected it and rolled down the window and put it back up. At that point I took a tub of White Lithium Grease and started lubing up everything inside that Tailgate that looked to need more lube. Saw the bottom sash I guess you call it that the glass sits in was rusted up pretty good but still solid. Wire Brushed the loose stuff off and covered all the rusted metal of the window sash with white lube. Could of put a rust Converter on it but I really have no faith in the product as I have seen things rust again using it so I believe in regular oil or grease to coat things now especially in areas where no one is going to see it inside the Tailgate. It will take a long time for that grease to stop protecting that metal I feel from rusting anymore then it did. I left the inside cover off the tailgate for awhile to keep a eye on things. Back to the cable I can now turn it by hand and see the window going up or down doing it a good sign. The problem with WD-40 is it will dry out eventually. I am going to squirt some lube motor oil into the cable or even trans fluid. I keep a Squirt Can of both products for spot lube. I believe either one would penetrate it well into the cable and keep it from freezing up. I see I have a blue colored cable. I am guessing it is the original to the truck being I purchased this '90 Blazer back in 1995 at 5 years old with 40K miles on it. It only has about 65k miles on it today being I didn't drive it that much being I have other vehicles. It sits more then anything. Going to try to use it a little more. Last night I orderrf the weather-stripping for the outside of the back glass that sits on the top of the tailgate. That piece has been cracked for quite awhile and is hard as a rock. I am sure it is letting water into the tailgate. All other weather-stripping looks good to me. I need to look at a better diagram of the Tailgate for all the parts that make it up. Below the inside handle of the Tailgate a rounded bent up rod that is connected by I believe 3 bolts in some sort of hold down to the tailgate it snapped its holder on me yesterday. I looked online and could not find that part. If anyone knows of a Diagram that shows all the components online let me know. It must be there for a reason although I can still roll the window up and down. I do hear a knock when doing so now though.
You said cock ...lol...doing this project now ..ordered new motor ..gonna repalce regulator also ..cant find it on Ebay...any idea of a part number ? 1982 gmc jimmy ..Arizona truck ..mostly original ..69k ..had motor replaced with 350 ..has optional roll bar and skid pan ...not bad for a grand ..
![เป็นไปได้ไหม - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_6lZ6b3_7Vo/mqdefault.jpg)
Your videos are the best and thank you. The K5 was the best truck IMO. Has a '86. I bought in West Hampton BCH back in the day. Now I have a beautiful '90 Blazer in excellent condition with 70K original miles.
Thanks for sharing
Another concern for window operation (both the key switch and inside cab control switch), is the interlock switch on the tailgate. If the gate does not fully close, the interlock prevents the window from going up with the track in the top misaligned to the gate. I have a bad switch on my 85 K20 Suburban. It was intermittent so took me a while to find.
Interlock was good, It turned out to be a broken (rotted) connector in the harness. Thanks for Watching.
I have a 90 model blazer with the same problems after checking it out my rollers are bad too in fact one was gone having problem finding new ones wondering where you got yours thanks
We never did get new rollers
So, any updates on this? I'm in the process of restoring my tailgate myself. I just ordered a new lock cylinder, as my key also doesn't do anything when turned in the rear lock. I bought a new window motor so I hope it will help to correct the stalling problem. On a side note, my internal window channels, particularly the driver's side channel, was so rusted it broke in half when I removed it. I'm glad LMC has those.
Yes, we plan on making some new videos with regards when the weather starts to clear up. As it turns out, we had a weak old motor, worn channel weatherstripping making the motor work harder, and worn rollers on the regulator. Additionally, a rotted harness connection made the rear key switch not operate the rear window, and the interior switch worked sporadically due to a bad neutral safety switch, as it's only designed to operate when vehicle is in park/neutral. Thanks for watching.
Try Classic Industries.
Those second generation K5 Blazers & Jimmys are rare nowadays, & same with the seventh generation Suburbans. The third generation C/K series pickups with the crew cabs are the most rare nowadays, but the regular cab ones on the other hand I still see out on the roads today.
I'm a big fan of all squares
@@AxlesGarage same here.
need info on reinstalling rear window after taking it out and replacing the seal ie. how does the sash go on and which way does it go in
Have not gotten that far on it yet.
The weather stripping just pops in, there's a video called how to convert a blazer electric tailgate to manual which has good info on it
Just bought a k5 and was checking out videos about the back window. Couldn’t help but recognize that HCFR logo! Haha
Very cool!
"can I use the word cock?" LMAOLOLOLOLOL
Someone gets my humor
What color is that hot wire your needing to trace
I believe it was orange, truck is in body shop, I'll check when I get it back
Hey Rob! Do you have any tip on how to get the rear window switch out of the dash?
Never attempted, but I would think there is either a tab or retainer on the back side.
@@AxlesGarage 7mm nut driver, accessible with the radio out .
My window seems to be off the track, each time I either use the switch on the dash or the tailgate it makes a higher pitched noise but no movement, it seems that the engine keeps disconnecting.
You're gonna have to remove the access panel to see whats going on. Thanks for watching.
@@AxlesGarage I removed the middle panel and unfortunately the issues are still unreachable, is it safe to remove the panel that covers the rest of the mechanics or will that damage it?
Man, the window on my 80 K5 works, but it’s tilted about 1/4 inch and won’t go all the way down (looking from the rear of the truck) the right side sticks up & going up the left side has that small gap of about 1/4 inch. Just really bugging me & it leaks a little in a hard rain. Any follow up to this issue would be a great help. Thanks
We have had the window down since just after the video (we installed a soft top). However, it looks like worn 'tracks' and regulator rollers is usually the cause of what you are describing. No way to know for sure until you take it apart and inspect. Thanks for watching.
Axle's Garage I’ve been looking at my tailgate and I’m really not sure how to get that whole assembly out? Watched another video and said it comes out on the side. But I didn’t see any access panels on the sides. Does it come out of from the top? Thanks guys.
Both switches work, my window goes up and down but a little slow. The main problem is it makes this awful scratching noise. Any idea how to fix it?
They were very loud new from the factory. Horrible motor and design. Take the access panel off and make sure everything looks ok, with nothing obvious 'scratching' into something. Try lubing the moving parts with white grease and lube the weatherstrip channels with silicone spray.
I have a 90 suburban , not hearing the motor working at all the window is stuck down can’t access the motor or anything because the glass is in the way , is there any way to manually lift the window for I can have access to make the repair , at this point Im honestly considering just shattering the window
Take the cable off and chuck it into a drill to spin the window up. Don't break the glass. You can get it up, just takes a little patience and possibly some disassembly
Hello I had to take mine apart today because power window would not go back up. It was getting slower and sometimes would just stop. Well the cable going to window regulator from motor was the trouble. The cable incased in its tube was jammed. Also watch out if you remove the cable which you shouldn’t the regulator is sprung loaded and once I removed that cable it sprung up. Almost lost a finger.
Yep, those cable drive systems were problematic even when new. Thanks for watching
I'm having the same problem with my K5 electric window and I was wondering how did you get the cable off the regulator cuz I'm having trouble getting it off
I have a question, hopefully you can help me, I have a 1989 GMC Jimmy and i would like to know how to remove the wing glass on the HardTop. Also im missing most of my Bolts on the HardTop that holds and secures it can you please help. Thank you in advance.
I'll check the bolts
@@AxlesGarage Thank you
Where can one find a new key switch. My front switch works, key switch does not
Nathan Marshall lmc trucks.com
LMC
check lmc,, they have EVERYTHING,,, they have a specialty catalog online or paper copy specifically for 73 - 91 k5 blazer / suburbans
Thanks, I will. and thanks for watching
Just what I needed..but question...how did you remove that carpet from the tailgate..I have the same thing on mine and do not want to ruin it..thank-you brother!
Mine just has some screws in the surrounding trim you remove and it pops right off.
There are screws in the carpet that hold it to the tailgate.
ok this is my dilemma. both the switch in the cab and the tailgate switch work . it just makes a clicking noise both directions. i took the cable off the motor and attached it to my drill with no resolve. it would not budge either direction. the tailgate is closed and window is up obviously i am stuck any help would be greatly appreciated
Mine just did the same thing. Snapped the cable
Looks like your going to have to start taking the guts apart from the inside until you can get the glass free enough to slide down.
Cant wait till part two comes out.
Thanks for watching.
i can’t get my back window to go down while it is up. i’m not sure if i should take of the tail gate cover from the inside or what. someone give me an idea?
If you have power to the window motor, its usually the tailgate interlock that is the problem. Thats the switch that only allows the window to operate when the tailgate is closed.
My 83 key switch never worked. But the dash switch works. But over the last year, sometimes it won't go up until after a few tries. Maybe because I open the tailgate and shut it. The motor clicks when the switch tries to lower it (from the lowest position), but makes no sound when the switch tries to raise. Eventually, it works itself out. But today no luck. Any ideas?
There is a sensor in the tailgate that prevents the switches from operating when the tailgate is not in the shut position. Make sure that sensor is working properly.
So my rear window came down four inches, the power switch works, you can hear it trying to work but the window doesnt move. Could it be because it fell off the track?
Its possible, or the cable drive went bad.
Did you get it to work? did replacing your window regulator help? I'm having same issue with my 79K5. I'm thinking I should just get a new window regulator motor.
Changing the motor helped and we found a broken connector on a power feed under the hood that was the cause of the inoperable inside switch. We wound up taking the glass out as we have the soft-top on year round.
my dash switch, and key switch work but my handle is being locked so annoying
Sometimes, the window interlock is out of adjustment. Also if the latch is stuck try pushing the tailgate in while at the same time trying to lift the latch up. I used to have a square that needed that method to open. Thanks for watching.
Anybody know what the name of that song was at the beginning of the video that the guy had before we started talking I've always wanted to know what the name of that song was cuz I wanted to try to play it but good envigor the name out
Daisy Dukes, by Silent Partner
I have a question I am hoping someone can answer me here. I still own my 1990 K5 Black Blazer with Gray Interior. Purchased it back in 1995 at five years old. Its been a great truck. It has less then 70k miles on it and is pretty much rust free all around. I don't use the vehicles much at all and it sits most of the time nowadays outside. It use to be garage kept years ago. Anyway the last time I was in my Blazer the back window would not go down. Doesn't go down with the switch at the dash nor does it go down with the key switch in the back tailgate. At this point the snow is just about melted and Spring is almost here in the Northeast so I want to check it out soon. What do I need to do to get the tail gate down with the glass all the way up? At the moment I have done no research other then come to this You Tube Video to read and view the problem you are having. I guess I will start checking fuses under the dash first. Does anyone know of any other fuses that may have something to do with the back window that may be under the hood? I doubt it but thought I would ask before I take a look. Any ideas from someone who realizes my situation is appreciated.
First check fuses like you said, then check the 2 heavy wires under tailgate. Power and ground. Those wires will go through a few junctions. The plastic clip junctions usually fail. I had the one under the hood near the power booster fail, not delivering power to the window motor.
@@AxlesGarage Thanks for the quick reply. After posting I walked outside to the truck being I needed to put a new vehicle registration in it. I tried the Switch on the dash and you can hear it want to raise the motor up and down. It may budge the window a 1/16 of a inch before it stops. Went behind the tailgate and didn't notice anything with that switch to lower the window. For the heck of it I tried to start the engine and it was dead. At that point I am thinking. The battery is old but like with many of my vehicles I don't drive much I keep a Battery Tender on them to keep them charged up but I also know it doesn't mean a thing if the battery is past it time especially after a cold winter like we just had. Right now it is dark out. Either tomorrow or this weekend I am going to pull my Work Van in front of it just to put booster cables on the battery and try the window motor switch on the dash again. The battery was dead like I thought being I put my "Load Tester" on it and it couldn't take any kind of a load at all. I will get back to you here to let you know how I made out. I may even pick up a new battery tomorrow and throw it in at some point I know its needed anyway. That battery could be 10 years old I will have to check. I have had batteries last even longer just by leaving a battery tender on them keeping them charged up not giving them any time to get sulfated.
Put a new battery in today it needed one bad. The switch at the dash works fine up or down. I can hear the back window want to go up or down but it will not move. The back switch in the tailgate works fine you can hear it try to work the window down or up but the Window still won't budge. I don't think I have a electrical problem at this point. Seems like something might of snapped and won't bring the back window up or down. Has anyone been in this situation? Curious if I can get into the tailgate from inside the vehicle with the tailgate up?
Finally got to it yesterday. Unscrewed the cable from the motor and the motor worked with the dash switch without a problem both ways. Couldn't move the cable by hand so for the heck of it I kept shooting WD-40 down into the cable. Took a drill and connected it and rolled down the window and put it back up. At that point I took a tub of White Lithium Grease and started lubing up everything inside that Tailgate that looked to need more lube. Saw the bottom sash I guess you call it that the glass sits in was rusted up pretty good but still solid. Wire Brushed the loose stuff off and covered all the rusted metal of the window sash with white lube. Could of put a rust Converter on it but I really have no faith in the product as I have seen things rust again using it so I believe in regular oil or grease to coat things now especially in areas where no one is going to see it inside the Tailgate. It will take a long time for that grease to stop protecting that metal I feel from rusting anymore then it did. I left the inside cover off the tailgate for awhile to keep a eye on things. Back to the cable I can now turn it by hand and see the window going up or down doing it a good sign. The problem with WD-40 is it will dry out eventually. I am going to squirt some lube motor oil into the cable or even trans fluid. I keep a Squirt Can of both products for spot lube. I believe either one would penetrate it well into the cable and keep it from freezing up. I see I have a blue colored cable. I am guessing it is the original to the truck being I purchased this '90 Blazer back in 1995 at 5 years old with 40K miles on it. It only has about 65k miles on it today being I didn't drive it that much being I have other vehicles. It sits more then anything. Going to try to use it a little more. Last night I orderrf the weather-stripping for the outside of the back glass that sits on the top of the tailgate. That piece has been cracked for quite awhile and is hard as a rock. I am sure it is letting water into the tailgate. All other weather-stripping looks good to me. I need to look at a better diagram of the Tailgate for all the parts that make it up. Below the inside handle of the Tailgate a rounded bent up rod that is connected by I believe 3 bolts in some sort of hold down to the tailgate it snapped its holder on me yesterday. I looked online and could not find that part. If anyone knows of a Diagram that shows all the components online let me know. It must be there for a reason although I can still roll the window up and down. I do hear a knock when doing so now though.
You said cock ...lol...doing this project now ..ordered new motor ..gonna repalce regulator also ..cant find it on Ebay...any idea of a part number ? 1982 gmc jimmy ..Arizona truck ..mostly original ..69k ..had motor replaced with 350 ..has optional roll bar and skid pan ...not bad for a grand ..
I usually use the Rock Auto web catalog to get part numbers. Thanks for watching.