For someone just starting out in the no till small plot farming arena, this is bloody daunting. There is so much information out there that was not available or taught or even thought about until 5 minutes ago. Still, I'm appreciative of it all even though it takes up a lot of time to learn in the short run but it'll make a huge difference when harvesting. So thank you to all the contributors, I'll keep on growing till I can't.
I want to thank you for your simple way of explaining things in your videos. You break it down and present it in what I would say are farmer terms. No fancy words and terms. I’m just starting on my journey to healthy soil. I find all of this fascinating
That shows he's explained it to real working people. I'm sure he's got the words but we would be lost if he used them. IE. No benefit. I'm just starting & I'm 59. Learning curve is like a wall, straight up. Good luck, stay strong.
Just found this channel yesterday, absolutely amazing quality, will be watching more! Building soil organic matter has been a challenge where I am. Property was almost all hard pack clay and rock. Been concentrating on plants and site made compost to fix it. I cut plants off at the base, leaving the roots to die in the soil, and plant cover crops to attract pollinators and recycle more of the soil when there not a main crop in it. Pea, bean, radish, buckwheat are my standard covers, Sunflowers on boarders to help control run off in rains, stems act as screens to catch floating debris, which in turn, slow the flow of water and soil. the channel 'Green Cover Seed' was what got me on this path, combined with the more technical reasoning behind it from 'Soil Works LLC' my gardens, and even my whole yard, has never been healthier and with no synthetic inputs. Now if I could get the Voles who have also found this a much nicer place to set up shop... to LEAVE.
I agree with what this man is saying. Back in a day on my college in Europe, aggro chemistry teacher was telling the exact same thing that he's telling with the addition of organic matter in the form of fermented cow manure, which I assuming his switching with sugars and molasses.
4 หลายเดือนก่อน +2
Subscribed. Thanks. I like your description of soil biology.
This channel is amazing. The information here is gold… thank you for sharing and spreading how to not only improve our gardens and farms but the environment/soil as a whole. This channel will grow to be massive, Keep up the good work! (:
Thanks, Glenn. Have patches of pigweed which I believe you've said indicates a phosphorous deficiency. These are the low spots in the field that stay wet longer. Do you suggest a fertilizer or manure or rock phosphate regimen, or more of a till for oxygen and cover crop approach? Not in any particular hurry and plan to drill oats/vetch maybe winter peas this fall.
@Soil Works LLC do these principles directly apply to container growing in organic soilless mixes? Content on container growing would be greatly appreciated unless that is out of your company's wheelhouse.
It should, obviously some things differ. But you are still attempting to create a good habitat for the plants, microbes, fungi, and insects that live in and around your containers. The ideas will still be applicable, I only grow in containers and I have been applying his wisdom for a few months now. Good luck and happy gardening
My understanding (3 years experience) of soil and container growing. Container growing prefers fibre pots over poly pots, soil moisture and temperature are crucial - so irrigate every couple of hours, and keep the pots shaded on the Sunny South side. Or the biology cooks. You want a soil temp in the 20's/70's, C/F. Monthly. I also use a soluble, top quality, horticulture industry based, fertilizer - containing (maybe 100?) phytonutrients. The small (30" X 10 X 3 +/-) 20kg bag cost me $120 20 years ago. I'm almost out of the stuff, haven't found a new source this year. I also use AEA Products. (Advancing Eco Agriculture) And the water from my Koi/Goldfish pond. That makes a difference, too. Compared to straight well and rain water. And vermicompost leachate/tea.
I'm a confused very experienced gardener. Have been adding well made compost to soil for decades. It is beautiful dark chocoalte brown with great aggregation. Worm population great, 2.5 million/acre. Penetrometer reading 75 PSI to 24", then I'm on bedrock. Plants grow well. MY CONUNDRUM... My last great carrot crop was 2012, about the time I switched to minimal tillage, but still use a broadfork every year. I simply can't get decent fresh carrot seed to germinate!!! Almost no cucumber germination this year (I usually use transplants, but this year I direct sowed). Corn is germinating, but I gave that a short soak in vermicompost extract. Last year I had ZERO corn germination with 24 hour extract soak (maybe that was too long?) Everything else in garden is transplants. Can you offer any long distance advice please?
could be bad seed. Have you tried a different source? 75 psi to 24” is superb. soil carbon and aggregation must be superb. I cannot imagine lack of tillage is your problem nor tillage your solution. You don’t need to soak seed for the microbes, just wet and plant.
@@DeanWAnderson Just got my first Mellich 3 soil test back. 14% OM!!! most things pretty good. pH 7.5 MY PROBLEM IS DEM DANG SLUGS... eating the seedlings as they emerge... even sooner. This is war. Using Garden Like a Vikings slug solution tonight.
@@garthwunsch7320 14% organic matter might be too high. Soil might be too wet. Or maybe it’s hot because of the organic matter. I’d set aside a germination test area. Do a soil composition test, really easy, and amend it with sand, clay, and/or silt. Whatever is needed to get it to Loam is what I’d amend into the germination test area to bring down organic matter percent. Then test germination. I’d also do a germination test in containers filled with potting mix to rule out the seeds being the issue.
@@instantsiv Thanks for your thoughts. Soil OM cannot "heat". It is pure humus, the result of creating excellent stable compost for decades (most gardeners don't know how to create this - their compost evaporates as nitrogen and carbon into the atmosphere, then they wonder where the compost went), and at 14% provides around 300 pounds of nitrogen per acre per year. Given my worm count and penetrometer values, the drainage is excellent. Every fall I empty my 1000 L water butt onto the garden and it efficiently disappears, so that in two hours I can walk on the area without it being a bog. Germination is not the problem... I can see the day old seedlings. I've determined, with the help of Steve Solomon (The Intelligent Gardener), that SLUGS are my problem. With minimal tillage I went to very heavy mulching... slug heaven. The slugs eat the seedlings as they're emerging, not just carrots, but all seedlings. I'm in the process of removing as much coarse mulch as practical and replacing it with thin application shredded leaf mold. I need to remove the daytime slug hideouts.
Thank you glen for the education! One thing I didn’t understand was when you were talking about the test farm where you had previously sprayed cow manure. You said it didn’t matter what you did to that area because the carbon to nitrogen was 3:114:00 . Meaning plants did good or poorly?
So what I understand from watching many of your videos and others that you are in the carbon to nitrogen ratio of 30:1 is ideal. So putting cow manure on pasture upsets that ratio? Meaning it’s a bad thing to put raw cow manure on pasture? I’m really confused by this Lol.
Is there something I can do with egg shells (calcium carbonate) I don’t know how quickly they decompose when ground into a powder in blender etc. But from the sounds of it it is a good addition based on calcium. Just not sure how to dose or if I want to be doing vinegar egg shell dissolution method making it more bioavailiable.
Yes, Glen’s organic starter fertilizer system can be effectively used on hay fields. By focusing on balanced nutrient availability and enhancing soil health, this system supports robust root development and increased forage quality, which are crucial for hay production. Many hay producers are turning to these organic practices to improve yields and ensure long-term soil fertility without relying on synthetic inputs.
So the sugar and molasses is just to feed the soil bacteria? Does that mean when you inoculate legumes before planting you should add sugar to the innoculant to boost those nitrogen-fixing bacteria?
@@laughinggiraffe9176 Plants do the opposite in fact, and create the sugar that come out of the their roots in order to feed microorganisms in the soil. They're called "root exudates". Due to the fact these exudates also contain specific signalling protein molecules that target specific bacteria and fungi chosen by the plant, I would advise never upset this process by adding a shot of sugar or molasses to the soil. Yes the bacteria will quickly go crazy eating it providing there's enough free nitrogen for them, but that free nitrogen will also be tied up at the expense of the growing plants, and which bacteria are being encouraged? - certainly not necessarily the ones your plant would choose. Oxygen and hydrogen are supplied by water, as is oxygen from the air for cellular respiration. Carbon comes from CO2 in the air, and carbon containing sugar is made in the leaves of the plant through the process of photosynthesis. Water and air are generally free on the farm. Hence why they these are not sold as "fertilizers".
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank the cannabis industry for all this speedy knowledge on agriculture..... I don't see it happening without such a valuable plant on this earth...
I love this channel because you bring simplicity and common sense while extracting the BS.
For someone just starting out in the no till small plot farming arena, this is bloody daunting. There is so much information out there that was not available or taught or even thought about until 5 minutes ago. Still, I'm appreciative of it all even though it takes up a lot of time to learn in the short run but it'll make a huge difference when harvesting. So thank you to all the contributors, I'll keep on growing till I can't.
I want to thank you for your simple way of explaining things in your videos. You break it down and present it in what I would say are farmer terms. No fancy words and terms. I’m just starting on my journey to healthy soil. I find all of this fascinating
Well said.
That shows he's explained it to real working people. I'm sure he's got the words but we would be lost if he used them. IE. No benefit. I'm just starting & I'm 59. Learning curve is like a wall, straight up. Good luck, stay strong.
this guy GOAT in agriculture practice 🐐🐐
just by coating seed with micronized soft rock, I increased germination by 10%
Thank you so much sir Glen for all this common sense basic explaination, for us esp. Laymen
Wow! Great explanation here. This is so helpful.
Wow! Great video! Subscribed! I'm only a small-time gardener, but all the same principles apply
Just found this channel yesterday, absolutely amazing quality, will be watching more! Building soil organic matter has been a challenge where I am. Property was almost all hard pack clay and rock. Been concentrating on plants and site made compost to fix it. I cut plants off at the base, leaving the roots to die in the soil, and plant cover crops to attract pollinators and recycle more of the soil when there not a main crop in it. Pea, bean, radish, buckwheat are my standard covers, Sunflowers on boarders to help control run off in rains, stems act as screens to catch floating debris, which in turn, slow the flow of water and soil. the channel 'Green Cover Seed' was what got me on this path, combined with the more technical reasoning behind it from 'Soil Works LLC' my gardens, and even my whole yard, has never been healthier and with no synthetic inputs. Now if I could get the Voles who have also found this a much nicer place to set up shop... to LEAVE.
You are hero gave a knowledge to people around the worlds. Thank you
Greetings from Brazil. Keep up with the good work. I have taken your course at ACRES USA. Great Asset.
about 15 years ago.
Thank you very much for your knowledge Im not a farmer but loves agro forestry here from South Africa Western Cape Knysna
Interesting, I use same on my lawn but add worm juice as well. Great results!
Worm juice or Worm compost extract is a great stuff
I agree with what this man is saying. Back in a day on my college in Europe, aggro chemistry teacher was telling the exact same thing that he's telling with the addition of organic matter in the form of fermented cow manure, which I assuming his switching with sugars and molasses.
Subscribed. Thanks. I like your description of soil biology.
This channel is amazing. The information here is gold… thank you for sharing and spreading how to not only improve our gardens and farms but the environment/soil as a whole. This channel will grow to be massive, Keep up the good work! (:
it's a mixed bag of good info and info that is not that accurate. typical
Great explanation!
You are so helpful thank you, friend.
Great content
Is your calcium available to buy for home gardeners. Your website is hard to navigate.
Save your eggshells. Powder them in a grinder. Free calcium
@@zaphodbeeblebrox3967🥩soak them in vinegar until stop bubbling ;
water-soluble Ca🥚
🕊
Great stuff right there!
Thanks, Glenn. Have patches of pigweed which I believe you've said indicates a phosphorous deficiency. These are the low spots in the field that stay wet longer. Do you suggest a fertilizer or manure or rock phosphate regimen, or more of a till for oxygen and cover crop approach? Not in any particular hurry and plan to drill oats/vetch maybe winter peas this fall.
Thank you I really needed to lean this
@Soil Works LLC do these principles directly apply to container growing in organic soilless mixes? Content on container growing would be greatly appreciated unless that is out of your company's wheelhouse.
Yes they do
It should, obviously some things differ. But you are still attempting to create a good habitat for the plants, microbes, fungi, and insects that live in and around your containers. The ideas will still be applicable, I only grow in containers and I have been applying his wisdom for a few months now. Good luck and happy gardening
@@colbymarsh2074 What fertilizer strategies / inputs are you using for containers?
My understanding (3 years experience) of soil and container growing. Container growing prefers fibre pots over poly pots, soil moisture and temperature are crucial - so irrigate every couple of hours, and keep the pots shaded on the Sunny South side. Or the biology cooks. You want a soil temp in the 20's/70's, C/F.
Monthly. I also use a soluble, top quality, horticulture industry based, fertilizer - containing (maybe 100?) phytonutrients. The small (30" X 10 X 3 +/-) 20kg bag cost me $120 20 years ago. I'm almost out of the stuff, haven't found a new source this year.
I also use AEA Products. (Advancing Eco Agriculture)
And the water from my Koi/Goldfish pond. That makes a difference, too. Compared to straight well and rain water.
And vermicompost leachate/tea.
Great videos. Thank you. Can we get the recipe for your seed starter fertilizer please.
बहुत बढ़िया स्वामी जी 🎉🎉 🙏🙏🙏
Thanks glen
I'm a confused very experienced gardener. Have been adding well made compost to soil for decades. It is beautiful dark chocoalte brown with great aggregation. Worm population great, 2.5 million/acre. Penetrometer reading 75 PSI to 24", then I'm on bedrock. Plants grow well. MY CONUNDRUM... My last great carrot crop was 2012, about the time I switched to minimal tillage, but still use a broadfork every year. I simply can't get decent fresh carrot seed to germinate!!!
Almost no cucumber germination this year (I usually use transplants, but this year I direct sowed). Corn is germinating, but I gave that a short soak in vermicompost extract. Last year I had ZERO corn germination with 24 hour extract soak (maybe that was too long?) Everything else in garden is transplants.
Can you offer any long distance advice please?
take a section and do a very deep and intensive till and see what happens
could be bad seed. Have you tried a different source? 75 psi to 24” is superb. soil carbon and aggregation must be superb. I cannot imagine lack of tillage is your problem nor tillage your solution. You don’t need to soak seed for the microbes, just wet and plant.
@@DeanWAnderson Just got my first Mellich 3 soil test back. 14% OM!!! most things pretty good. pH 7.5 MY PROBLEM IS DEM DANG SLUGS... eating the seedlings as they emerge... even sooner. This is war. Using Garden Like a Vikings slug solution tonight.
@@garthwunsch7320 14% organic matter might be too high. Soil might be too wet. Or maybe it’s hot because of the organic matter.
I’d set aside a germination test area. Do a soil composition test, really easy, and amend it with sand, clay, and/or silt. Whatever is needed to get it to Loam is what I’d amend into the germination test area to bring down organic matter percent. Then test germination. I’d also do a germination test in containers filled with potting mix to rule out the seeds being the issue.
@@instantsiv Thanks for your thoughts. Soil OM cannot "heat". It is pure humus, the result of creating excellent stable compost for decades (most gardeners don't know how to create this - their compost evaporates as nitrogen and carbon into the atmosphere, then they wonder where the compost went), and at 14% provides around 300 pounds of nitrogen per acre per year. Given my worm count and penetrometer values, the drainage is excellent. Every fall I empty my 1000 L water butt onto the garden and it efficiently disappears, so that in two hours I can walk on the area without it being a bog.
Germination is not the problem... I can see the day old seedlings. I've determined, with the help of Steve Solomon (The Intelligent Gardener), that SLUGS are my problem. With minimal tillage I went to very heavy mulching... slug heaven. The slugs eat the seedlings as they're emerging, not just carrots, but all seedlings. I'm in the process of removing as much coarse mulch as practical and replacing it with thin application shredded leaf mold. I need to remove the daytime slug hideouts.
Thank you glen for the education! One thing I didn’t understand was when you were talking about the test farm where you had previously sprayed cow manure. You said it didn’t matter what you did to that area because the carbon to nitrogen was 3:1 14:00 . Meaning plants did good or poorly?
So what I understand from watching many of your videos and others that you are in the carbon to nitrogen ratio of 30:1 is ideal. So putting cow manure on pasture upsets that ratio? Meaning it’s a bad thing to put raw cow manure on pasture? I’m really confused by this Lol.
What us the ratio of your start up liquid fertilizer?
What I see that some people are doing is mixing ashes, molasses and calcium to help fruit trees to fruit better. I guess its the same aproach ?
Is there something I can do with egg shells (calcium carbonate) I don’t know how quickly they decompose when ground into a powder in blender etc. But from the sounds of it it is a good addition based on calcium. Just not sure how to dose or if I want to be doing vinegar egg shell dissolution method making it more bioavailiable.
Check out Nigel Palmer and fermented egg shells for simple calcium amendment
Thank you for sharing
What would you feed turff ?
My soil C:N is low in a clay soil, you reckon your starter mix work well for plants to grow a healthy crop?
Where's all this liquid fish fertiliser supposed to come from
Is this system being used on hay fields? Hope you answer the question
Yes, Glen’s organic starter fertilizer system can be effectively used on hay fields. By focusing on balanced nutrient availability and enhancing soil health, this system supports robust root development and increased forage quality, which are crucial for hay production. Many hay producers are turning to these organic practices to improve yields and ensure long-term soil fertility without relying on synthetic inputs.
So compost tea with biochar?
I really wonder how much of each ?
What form is the calcium in? I am guessing it will be bone meal?
May we ask how can we order GSR ? Philippines
So the sugar and molasses is just to feed the soil bacteria? Does that mean when you inoculate legumes before planting you should add sugar to the innoculant to boost those nitrogen-fixing bacteria?
I would imagine plants can not break down and use sugar in the soil directly, even if it has carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen in it.
@@laughinggiraffe9176 Plants do the opposite in fact, and create the sugar that come out of the their roots in order to feed microorganisms in the soil. They're called "root exudates". Due to the fact these exudates also contain specific signalling protein molecules that target specific bacteria and fungi chosen by the plant, I would advise never upset this process by adding a shot of sugar or molasses to the soil. Yes the bacteria will quickly go crazy eating it providing there's enough free nitrogen for them, but that free nitrogen will also be tied up at the expense of the growing plants, and which bacteria are being encouraged? - certainly not necessarily the ones your plant would choose.
Oxygen and hydrogen are supplied by water, as is oxygen from the air for cellular respiration. Carbon comes from CO2 in the air, and carbon containing sugar is made in the leaves of the plant through the process of photosynthesis. Water and air are generally free on the farm. Hence why they these are not sold as "fertilizers".
Will this work on a lawn
Well let's see the results.
Thanks
Help I have symphylins in my beds, how to kill them.
Can you direct me to more conversation about building up plant immunity to fungus and disease through sugars?
“If air can’t get in soil there goes your free nitrogen”
What quality of Food where people were eating way back when people lived over 900 years of age???????
Excessive overlapping and use of first time termanology and information disconnects the presentation and makes it difficult to follow
Nice video buddy