How many litres of poison have we sprayed on ourselves in stupidity? I never believed the 'weed' problem because poison is no solution, that is lazy and ignorant (ignorance is the root of evil). Thank you for sharing, much appreciated.
I am a brand new farmer, and just ran across your channel. You are an angel in disguise! Thank you, I am getting a wonderful start in this field (no pun intended), through your teaching. Thank you!
Whether something is a weed or a food crop seems pretty subjective. Some people grow amaranth for food, but it's a weed in my garden. Some people think lamb's quarters is a weed, but we grow it for food.
It’s subjective if you don’t have a clue what you are doing. I don’t grow corn, soybeans, wheat and alfalfa only to have an evasive weed take over and get confused what I want to survive.
@@gsmscrazycanuck9814 point being it's arbitrary. How do I decide which group you would place something in? I would never say that amaranth is not a food crop, but I sure wish I could eradicate it from my garden.
My long journey towards weed and pest management are both centered on Brix testing. Bad bugs, aka the ones who feed on plant material, hate high sugar content. I survived 2 separate army worm attacks without using any input with minor damage around the corners of the field, while neighboring ground had been pounding expensive inputs, fighting for their lives, and the results were not good. Weed management with grazing also does wonders. I know I’m going in really late so I can graze cover crops, and shortening RM’s, but identifying those problem areas and putting 500-750, even a million pounds per acre on those areas stomps it down, and the beneficial cover crops will over take it. The manure also pits that p and k, as well as N out there, and the trampled carbon mixes in. But, despite how well we think we have it down, there is still plenty of punting when you’re not doing prescriptive, industrial farming. I’ve never had a year where I didn’t end up throwing in a buckwheat crop somewhere just to produce something. That can work just the opposite. In years past, I’ve never done well with winter cereals when I had a moist spring, but this year it never quit raining, and I broke every record. I have a commercial soft red that did a solid 200 bushels, and it was grown and certified organic. I have a lot of money in that crop, it’s interplanted with a yellow pea every 4th row and it’s on 5 inch spacing, it’s expensive seed and ultra high population. The stars just aligned, purely by luck.
I like your insight and thank you and I also notice plants fed Carbohydrates and that includes in the form of Black Strap Molasses do better and are more resilient against natural predators
I have noticed when I put blood & bone and garden lime in my raised beds like potatoes etc, I don't get any weeds. When I don't have any lime in with my onions, I have a lot of weeds.
WOW!!! I just Subscribed after HEARING this Entire Video!!! I am growing Multiple Foods Crops and THIS Was SO HELPFUL. I will be Following. Godspeed Everyone.
Brilliant. Thank you so much. My wife and I are starting our farm food growing journey. Cape Town, South Africa. The soil is key. Thank you Linton and Rene
Thank you, I am a gardener now and just love your information. A few years ago I took my antique tractor and plow to a “plow day”. I did not even unload. The soil was so hard that most of the plows would not go in the ground.😢
Never heard of using a refractometer in this way. It's used to measure gravity, or body, or solids so using it this way may detect sugar percentages but if you're testing water for your salt water fish tank those solids would be salt. I'm only growing in my back yard. I like the idea of cutting the weeds instead of pulling them. Root penetration is beneficial for soil building as well so by leaving the root it tact it continues to wiggle down while the cut pieces are used as mulch and worm food. My soil is compacted and full of clay but it's improving. It also helps to drive a pick into the top layer of stubbornly compacted areas as well. Not picking and shoveling just making cracks so water can get in and growth can come out.I don't want to use chemicals or amend the soil if I don't have to because I eat what I grow and amending the soil requires a targeted yet balanced approach which can take some breaking up of the soil. Necessary for a farmer dealing with acres but maybe not for my tiny plot. I look forward to experimenting with my refractometer in this way.
Sir, I have had a refractometer sitting unused in its box for years! What a great education and certainly one I needed to put this thing to work!! Thank you for this very clear lesson.
You said that foxtail barley is looking to extract salt. This may be true, but I made an observation that says it also is in soil lacking air. I have pictures showing a field I took over and how I got rid of foxtail barley with tillage.
I am dealing with a little bit of a foxtail issue in my field. I'm barely getting started in ranching/farming so I'm green but I've read that foxtail can be dealt with by discing it in. This year I mowed the patches of foxtail and the other grass varieties and alfalfa surged afterwards. I am still considering burning the dead and dry fox tail seed left on the surface of the field though. I'm not sure if that's a good idea or not though.
@@ianutube22 I was told you can't kill foxtail with tillage. I took over three quarters that were foxtail over the entire fields. I worked it in and it was gone. Once you get air into the soil, the foxtail doesn't like it.
I really appreciate the thoughts and reasoning and chemistry. But need explanations please on how one would increase those elements, oxygen(tilling or forking presumably) Hydrogen? Carbon? (Compost or induction) Calcium and P are easy to apply according to a test
I understand carbon is organic matter on top of the soil, corn stalks maybe left over cover crops but for the thousand acre farms how is getting carbon into the soil? Once every three years of rotational crop? Hard to get a 16 / 1 carbon unless you covercrop something every year am I wrong?
Great information, bravo and thank you. I especially like how you called weeds "medicinal". They are medicine to humans, and I believe they are, in addition to good indicators, acting as medicine to "sick" soil. In my garden, I like to observe pests and I challenge myself to see how they could be acting in my benefit. Time after time, I find that they were a precursor to my desired plant/soil conditions.
One way to control weeds is by inhibiting germination. This can be achieved organically by ruducing the N in the top inch or so of soil. You can ad charcoal to the surface or wood chips but be careful not to mix it into the soil or it will suck N from deeper in the soil. Now if you were to apply the charcoal on the surface and then the water everything was miracle grow for example it may not work. You want to have enough N in the soil before you apply the charcoal
In our Agricultural lands of Paddy, Echinochloa sps. are growing, sometimes creating the problem to the main crop Paddy. I have seen your Video, it is very impressive. Now you have decided to engineer the soil. Probably Echinochloa sps. abundant growth indicates high salts such as Sodium, Magnesium etc. in the soil. Kindly suggest measures to engineer the soil.
@@1975CEES that book says purslane thrives in low phosphorus. My phosphorus is off the charts. That book has some things incorrect but the theory is somewhat valid.
I have been doing holes in my garden couple of years now without understanding this stuff! About 2 feet wide and 2.5 feet deep at the bottom I'll put meat scraps or bone and rotten wood than all the weeds i can find and if its a nice clump of weeds i take roots and dirt! Tree leaves from the ground or one that is green from tree😮 causing shade! I tamp it down t'ill 4 or 5 inches from the top!i than cover with the dug up dirt and plant my seed or plant ! At the end of the season that soil profile is totally diffrent
You’d need to work with that product manufacturer as application rates can vary depending on the specific formulation, concentration, and intended use. Best guess would likely be 2-4 ounces of blackstrap molasses diluted in 1 gal of water per 1,000 sq ft. If you’re integrating this into a broader soil health program, consider pairing it with other amendments, like calcium sources, to further enhance soil structure and microbial activity.
Would love to be able to purchase your products for my home garden. Resources? I went to your website and it looks like it's for commercial large scale farmers.
Thank you for your interest! Yes, our products are optimized for larger-scale operations. Many of our growers who use our product on their gardens are also using our products as part of their larger operation. Some food for thought: if your garden is about 100 square feet, you’d likely only apply approximately 0.2 grams of our GSR Calcium (with a 1lb bag being our smallest option). While this can work, the math may show it’s more cost-effective and impactful when used over larger areas. Either way, feel free to reach out at info@soilworksllc.com with more details about your goals and location and we can help determine if there’s a distributor or direct option for you. Thanks again!
A beef and crop farm I used to work for is having trouble with a plant called "velvet leaf" and it's gotten to the point where the farmer has just about given up. I tried several times to convince him to switch to no till and use a diverse and dense planting of cover crops, then use it for silage or graze it, he's been reluctant to accept my advice. Any ideas on how to combat against it other than cover crops to choke it out? @SoilWorksLLC-GSRCalcium
Get a shovel and see how deep where the feeder roots stopped growing. Sometimes you can see goofy looking sideways tiller radishes. I believe that's where that is happening. My aerobic zone is only 5 inches. I tru not to till below that and I'm putting GSR down right now as I'm writing here
Travis. Grab a 1" squared off stick /rod with a flat tip. Use body weight to push it in. I'm 220lbs so ⅔ weight ≈150 psi . At 6" depth I can loft my self off the ground. My garden is now 3' wide x3'deep45'long . The bottom 1.5-2' took a rock bar ( a jackhammer would have been better) 1800-5000psi. 3yds of rock /gravel 4ysd of Calcrete ( calcium carbonate cemented / natural concrete) removed.
@@daviddroescher thanks i do have some ideas about the cause of compaction i love the idea of no till let say i do soil test and it's need amendment how do i get it in a no till Case and there compaction and with tillage the going to be serious erosion.
I don’t think I ever saw a field where the weeds and crop was 2-3 Brix. There is a state where they are both equal (7-8 Brix). If the crop goes up, the weeds go down and visa versa.
I’m a home owner on 2.4 acres I live in Alabama and I have a severe problem with Wiregrass how do I control it or better yet get rid of it. Please help I’m at my wits and trying to figure it out.
When we make beds and don't till... keep beds covered with organic mulch soil start getting rich...sow on beds don't uproot the roots...water in furrows besides the beds...there is nothing required either in the form of input or sprays as insecticide.
When you said pigweed means lack of available P, yep and yep. My soil is high pH, and loaded with Ca. But the high pH means that I struggle with P. Still looking for the optimal formula for growing giant pumpkins.
Hey Cliff, I am a pumpkin and vegetable grower. The advice in this guy's videos is straight garbage. There are much better sources of pumpkin growing info out there such as several of the state universities with pumpkin trials as well as AgPhd channel. Pigweed is not a symptom of your soil condition. Pigweeds in your field mean there were pigweeds that went to seed as far back as 10 years or more. Weeds don't tell you anything about soil nutrients. The better your fertility, the better your weeds grow. We all use different methods when it comes to fertilizer programs, and I will assure you what works good for one farmer isn't necessarily the best for another. Oh and if you want to take care of the pigweed, use Reflex as part of your PRE right after you plant.
@@MontyCarlo1977 I'm open to scrutiny and always learning but I do believe there's a correlation between certain soil conditions and certain weeds thriving vs not thriving. I've had some weeds just disappear as soil conditions change and improve. I've had a crop advisor tell me that changing the soil conditions can help a lot in getting rid of undesirable plants. In nature there are no single end all solutions that are good/natural but I'd say that there's more nuance to it than just that "weeds don't tell you anything about soil nutrients".
I watched one of you videos and thought it had some pretty good information so i subscribed. After watching several of your other videos I realize that you have no idea what you are talking about. It seems like most of the people in your comment section agree with me.
Hydrogen occurs in two forms hydrogen ions acidly the soil and the hydrogen in water molecules. The formula for photosynthesis to make sugar and cellulose is 6 CO2 + 6 H20 yields one glucose ( C6 H12 O6) and 6 O2. I do not know why you say Hydrogen is needed by plants. You might say soil PH has to be in the right range and that depends on hydrogen ions. At 6:07 you say that the refractometer shows a clear blue line it means there is not much mineral just sugar. No matter what the solution is the line is a sharp line. We use them at work to check a variety of things. What makes the line between lit and not lit fuzzy is the light source and angle or the solution not being uniform. To say that one chemical would put a straight line at some reading and another would put a fuzzy line suggests you do not know how these things work. We get straight lines with salt solutions devoid of sugar.
While it’s true that weeds, like all plants, need basic nutrients to grow, different plants have different nutrient preferences and tolerances. Weeds often thrive in soils where certain nutrient imbalances exist that may not be ideal for crops. For example, many weeds thrive in low-calcium or compacted soils, which crops may find challenging. Understanding and addressing these soil conditions can help manage weed growth and create a better environment for crops.
![CAMPปลิ้น | รวม Highlight 2024! PART [1/2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6hnvNnvYloU/mqdefault.jpg)
Incredible video. We don't understand the basics well enough. It makes so much sense.
How many litres of poison have we sprayed on ourselves in stupidity? I never believed the 'weed' problem because poison is no solution, that is lazy and ignorant (ignorance is the root of evil). Thank you for sharing, much appreciated.
So what is the solution?
I agree with as I from agricultural family
@@blakekucher6020
DIVERSIFY, ROTATE CROPS
& INCLUDE COVER CROPS BETWEEN SEASONS (AND KNOW WELL NATIVE SPECIES & COMPLIMENTARY PLANTS).
@@blakekucher6020 Curiosity is our greatest tool. The solution is already present, we just have to identify it! :D
To be ignorant of a fact - can be a naivety , when we become aware to a reasoning and ignore it we become Stupid or Insane
I am a brand new farmer, and just ran across your channel. You are an angel in disguise! Thank you, I am getting a wonderful start in this field (no pun intended), through your teaching. Thank you!
Same here
12:53 high ph is a deficiency of hydrogen which is a deficiency of carbon
Whether something is a weed or a food crop seems pretty subjective. Some people grow amaranth for food, but it's a weed in my garden. Some people think lamb's quarters is a weed, but we grow it for food.
You are right. Same rules apply. If you want a healthy weed crop, then give it what it wants which is the opposite of most food crops.
It’s subjective if you don’t have a clue what you are doing. I don’t grow corn, soybeans, wheat and alfalfa only to have an evasive weed take over and get confused what I want to survive.
@@jonsobieralski6053 Then you need to understand how things work.
@@gsmscrazycanuck9814 point being it's arbitrary. How do I decide which group you would place something in? I would never say that amaranth is not a food crop, but I sure wish I could eradicate it from my garden.
@@christopherhorn5274 then for you it's a weed. Then you apply available cal and phos and reduce compaction.
My long journey towards weed and pest management are both centered on Brix testing. Bad bugs, aka the ones who feed on plant material, hate high sugar content. I survived 2 separate army worm attacks without using any input with minor damage around the corners of the field, while neighboring ground had been pounding expensive inputs, fighting for their lives, and the results were not good.
Weed management with grazing also does wonders. I know I’m going in really late so I can graze cover crops, and shortening RM’s, but identifying those problem areas and putting 500-750, even a million pounds per acre on those areas stomps it down, and the beneficial cover crops will over take it. The manure also pits that p and k, as well as N out there, and the trampled carbon mixes in.
But, despite how well we think we have it down, there is still plenty of punting when you’re not doing prescriptive, industrial farming. I’ve never had a year where I didn’t end up throwing in a buckwheat crop somewhere just to produce something. That can work just the opposite. In years past, I’ve never done well with winter cereals when I had a moist spring, but this year it never quit raining, and I broke every record. I have a commercial soft red that did a solid 200 bushels, and it was grown and certified organic. I have a lot of money in that crop, it’s interplanted with a yellow pea every 4th row and it’s on 5 inch spacing, it’s expensive seed and ultra high population. The stars just aligned, purely by luck.
I like your insight and thank you and I also notice plants fed Carbohydrates and that includes in the form of Black Strap Molasses do better and are more resilient against natural predators
This read like a Vietnam vet talking about saigon
I have noticed when I put blood & bone and garden lime in my raised beds like potatoes etc, I don't get any weeds.
When I don't have any lime in with my onions, I have a lot of weeds.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
WOW!!! I just Subscribed after HEARING this Entire Video!!! I am growing Multiple Foods Crops and THIS Was SO HELPFUL. I will be Following. Godspeed Everyone.
Thank you! This is the best summation of soil requirements I have found on TH-cam.
I always learn a lot from your videos. This is something that should be taught in schools everywhere, not in just chemistry.
Brilliant. Thank you so much. My wife and I are starting our farm food growing journey. Cape Town, South Africa. The soil is key. Thank you
Linton and Rene
Thank you, I am a gardener now and just love your information. A few years ago I took my antique tractor and plow to a “plow day”. I did not even unload. The soil was so hard that most of the plows would not go in the ground.😢
Never heard of using a refractometer in this way. It's used to measure gravity, or body, or solids so using it this way may detect sugar percentages but if you're testing water for your salt water fish tank those solids would be salt. I'm only growing in my back yard. I like the idea of cutting the weeds instead of pulling them. Root penetration is beneficial for soil building as well so by leaving the root it tact it continues to wiggle down while the cut pieces are used as mulch and worm food. My soil is compacted and full of clay but it's improving. It also helps to drive a pick into the top layer of stubbornly compacted areas as well. Not picking and shoveling just making cracks so water can get in and growth can come out.I don't want to use chemicals or amend the soil if I don't have to because I eat what I grow and amending the soil requires a targeted yet balanced approach which can take some breaking up of the soil. Necessary for a farmer dealing with acres but maybe not for my tiny plot. I look forward to experimenting with my refractometer in this way.
I'm learning knf, and this made my brain click a few times. Thanks
Saludos desde Mexico! Fue una leccion magistral de malezas y fertilidad de suelos! Of course. thanks God I understand English Language. Thank you!
That was excellent! Thank you!
My roommate never stops talking about weeds.
Lol 😂
Sir, I have had a refractometer sitting unused in its box for years! What a great education and certainly one I needed to put this thing to work!! Thank you for this very clear lesson.
Thanks
Thank you so much for your work! The information is invaluable.
You said that foxtail barley is looking to extract salt. This may be true, but I made an observation that says it also is in soil lacking air. I have pictures showing a field I took over and how I got rid of foxtail barley with tillage.
I am dealing with a little bit of a foxtail issue in my field. I'm barely getting started in ranching/farming so I'm green but I've read that foxtail can be dealt with by discing it in. This year I mowed the patches of foxtail and the other grass varieties and alfalfa surged afterwards. I am still considering burning the dead and dry fox tail seed left on the surface of the field though. I'm not sure if that's a good idea or not though.
@@ianutube22 I was told you can't kill foxtail with tillage. I took over three quarters that were foxtail over the entire fields. I worked it in and it was gone. Once you get air into the soil, the foxtail doesn't like it.
@@gsmscrazycanuck9814 just curious, how long ago was that? Has a season passed and the foxtail still hasn't showed up?
@@ianutube22 That was 5 years ago. The foxtail never showed up the following year.
I really appreciate the thoughts and reasoning and chemistry.
But need explanations please on how one would increase those elements, oxygen(tilling or forking presumably)
Hydrogen?
Carbon? (Compost or induction)
Calcium and P are easy to apply according to a test
great now how about providing the solutions?
Fantastic information!!! Subscribed!
looking advice for coping of Ambrosia, Erigeron canandensis and Asclepias syriaca
Awesome presentation . Thank you . God bless
So what soil test is going to show me these minerals in the plant ready form
Do a video on what is carbon !!!
Yes
It’s this thing that the liberal party of canada feels is a necessity to tax the ever loving hell out of you on.
@@Whipspur Both sides if the isle are taking orders from the non elected world organizations. They can't prove one claim they make.
Please!!
I understand carbon is organic matter on top of the soil, corn stalks maybe left over cover crops but for the thousand acre farms how is getting carbon into the soil? Once every three years of rotational crop? Hard to get a 16 / 1 carbon unless you covercrop something every year am I wrong?
This is a brilliant set of concepts. changes my way of thinking.
Love that book, thank you so much for such a great video!
Very interesting perspective. I suppose bonemeal would help most soils a lot, especially in the top 2 inches.
Amazing information. As a starting market farmer looking to build good soil this is so valuable
Great information, bravo and thank you.
I especially like how you called weeds "medicinal". They are medicine to humans, and I believe they are, in addition to good indicators, acting as medicine to "sick" soil. In my garden, I like to observe pests and I challenge myself to see how they could be acting in my benefit. Time after time, I find that they were a precursor to my desired plant/soil conditions.
What are some best practices for maintaining the calcium in the top few inches of soil?
Microbes
bone meal?
One way to control weeds is by inhibiting germination. This can be achieved organically by ruducing the N in the top inch or so of soil. You can ad charcoal to the surface or wood chips but be careful not to mix it into the soil or it will suck N from deeper in the soil. Now if you were to apply the charcoal on the surface and then the water everything was miracle grow for example it may not work. You want to have enough N in the soil before you apply the charcoal
No till 💪😎 keep the soil alive!!!
@nategunn2830
that seems to be nigh-on impossible to me if the soil has to put up with heavy machinery...
🌳🕊💚
In our Agricultural lands of Paddy, Echinochloa sps. are growing, sometimes creating the problem to the main crop Paddy. I have seen your Video, it is very impressive. Now you have decided to engineer the soil. Probably Echinochloa sps. abundant growth indicates high salts such as Sodium, Magnesium etc. in the soil. Kindly suggest measures to engineer the soil.
How do you then ensure to keep the upper two inch of the soil rich in calcium (except by throwing more on top of it)?
microbes
@Daygoth please explain
wow, naturally lowering pH with soil activity. Beautiful
Great knowledge sharing ,thank you😊.
Best video ever. Thank you so much, Glenn.‼️👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏💞🙌
Thank you for making me think about how the soil must be in order to grow a good crop.
Please take care I l
Have weeds talk book. Recommend!
Also recommend NL&G's Aerify Plus and Natures Magic.
Carbon 1 product is reel good too.
Superb explanation as always to goad people into soil and life friendly food production.
thanks to inexpensive visual aid im a chemist now. it did me more good than hours in a classroom and a ton of books.
Tried this. It doesnt eliminate weeding but completely changes the weeds you have. Purslane is the problem now.
All parts of the plant are edible.
Get the book when weeds talk it probebly have the xure for that to
@@1975CEES that book says purslane thrives in low phosphorus. My phosphorus is off the charts. That book has some things incorrect but the theory is somewhat valid.
@@modrasedma yeah it's ok to eat but I have no use for literally 5000lbs of it.
I have been doing holes in my garden couple of years now without understanding this stuff! About 2 feet wide and 2.5 feet deep at the bottom I'll put meat scraps or bone and rotten wood than all the weeds i can find and if its a nice clump of weeds i take roots and dirt! Tree leaves from the ground or one that is green from tree😮 causing shade! I tamp it down t'ill 4 or 5 inches from the top!i than cover with the dug up dirt and plant my seed or plant !
At the end of the season that soil profile is totally diffrent
I know my method⁶ is drastic but as the weeds rot the soil settles opening it up for air
Great information
What’s the rate per 1,000 square feet of black strap molasses on warm season turf grasses
Thank you !
You’d need to work with that product manufacturer as application rates can vary depending on the specific formulation, concentration, and intended use. Best guess would likely be 2-4 ounces of blackstrap molasses diluted in 1 gal of water per 1,000 sq ft. If you’re integrating this into a broader soil health program, consider pairing it with other amendments, like calcium sources, to further enhance soil structure and microbial activity.
Would love to be able to purchase your products for my home garden. Resources? I went to your website and it looks like it's for commercial large scale farmers.
Thank you for your interest! Yes, our products are optimized for larger-scale operations. Many of our growers who use our product on their gardens are also using our products as part of their larger operation. Some food for thought: if your garden is about 100 square feet, you’d likely only apply approximately 0.2 grams of our GSR Calcium (with a 1lb bag being our smallest option). While this can work, the math may show it’s more cost-effective and impactful when used over larger areas. Either way, feel free to reach out at info@soilworksllc.com with more details about your goals and location and we can help determine if there’s a distributor or direct option for you. Thanks again!
@@SoilWorksLLC-GSRCalcium Will do. Thanks so much for the response!
A beef and crop farm I used to work for is having trouble with a plant called "velvet leaf" and it's gotten to the point where the farmer has just about given up. I tried several times to convince him to switch to no till and use a diverse and dense planting of cover crops, then use it for silage or graze it, he's been reluctant to accept my advice. Any ideas on how to combat against it other than cover crops to choke it out? @SoilWorksLLC-GSRCalcium
Good work, very educative video.
Amazing video! I learned so much!
Excellent information. Thank you
Now that you touched on this, how do we approach getting a higher brix?
Easy: just buy his products. This is nothing more than an advertisement using junk science as a veil to appear truthful and informative.
A break down on examples how to implement these items into the garden. We are not all at the same level and just starting out here at 45 years old
16:00 - How about using Calcium Nitrate? You won't raise the pH by using Lime or Dolomite.
Hi sir is there a way to check compaction without that piece of equipment
Get a shovel and see how deep where the feeder roots stopped growing. Sometimes you can see goofy looking sideways tiller radishes. I believe that's where that is happening. My aerobic zone is only 5 inches. I tru not to till below that and I'm putting GSR down right now as I'm writing here
@jasontucker3295
Why avoid braking through the air /water compaction boundary to allow O² deeper and bring Ca to the top?
Travis. Grab a 1" squared off stick /rod with a flat tip. Use body weight to push it in. I'm 220lbs so ⅔ weight ≈150 psi . At 6" depth I can loft my self off the ground. My garden is now 3' wide x3'deep45'long . The bottom 1.5-2' took a rock bar ( a jackhammer would have been better) 1800-5000psi. 3yds of rock /gravel 4ysd of Calcrete ( calcium carbonate cemented / natural concrete) removed.
@@daviddroescher thanks i do have some ideas about the cause of compaction i love the idea of no till let say i do soil test and it's need amendment how do i get it in a no till Case and there compaction and with tillage the going to be serious erosion.
Good stuff !
I don’t think I ever saw a field where the weeds and crop was 2-3 Brix. There is a state where they are both equal (7-8 Brix). If the crop goes up, the weeds go down and visa versa.
What about adding the sugar in the form of dried molasses?
Careful with that. It will feed microbes that like sugar and create nutrients, but too much can rot plant roots.
I’m a home owner on 2.4 acres I live in Alabama and I have a severe problem with Wiregrass how do I control it or better yet get rid of it. Please help I’m at my wits and trying to figure it out.
Nice info , so if u spray liquid calcium on weeds it should kill them ( it might kill crops also but it's a tbought)
Very nice and nicely said
When we make beds and don't till... keep beds covered with organic mulch soil start getting rich...sow on beds don't uproot the roots...water in furrows besides the beds...there is nothing required either in the form of input or sprays as insecticide.
PQNK? by Sir Asif Sharif from Pakistan
U rock boss!!! thanks for your great knowledge!!!
16:50 I almost made it. Now my head hurts and I’m falling asleep. Great info. I’ll have to rewatch another time.
When you said pigweed means lack of available P, yep and yep. My soil is high pH, and loaded with Ca. But the high pH means that I struggle with P. Still looking for the optimal formula for growing giant pumpkins.
Hey Cliff, I am a pumpkin and vegetable grower. The advice in this guy's videos is straight garbage. There are much better sources of pumpkin growing info out there such as several of the state universities with pumpkin trials as well as AgPhd channel. Pigweed is not a symptom of your soil condition. Pigweeds in your field mean there were pigweeds that went to seed as far back as 10 years or more. Weeds don't tell you anything about soil nutrients. The better your fertility, the better your weeds grow. We all use different methods when it comes to fertilizer programs, and I will assure you what works good for one farmer isn't necessarily the best for another. Oh and if you want to take care of the pigweed, use Reflex as part of your PRE right after you plant.
@@MontyCarlo1977 I'm open to scrutiny and always learning but I do believe there's a correlation between certain soil conditions and certain weeds thriving vs not thriving. I've had some weeds just disappear as soil conditions change and improve. I've had a crop advisor tell me that changing the soil conditions can help a lot in getting rid of undesirable plants. In nature there are no single end all solutions that are good/natural but I'd say that there's more nuance to it than just that "weeds don't tell you anything about soil nutrients".
Interesting... wishing i knew more about this... looking for ways to prove on small, scale before having to go full scale.
So what if you have poison hemlock? What's missing? It wasn't here 15 years ago.
The difference between a weed and a crop is weeds have a will to survive.
So just what would you call the Bermuda grass chocking out my veggies???????
I watched one of you videos and thought it had some pretty good information so i subscribed. After watching several of your other videos I realize that you have no idea what you are talking about. It seems like most of the people in your comment section agree with me.
How do you measure ec in the soil
Killer vid. Thanks!
Great video!!!
But how to restore the soil so food can grow?
Does it apply so bedstraw as my region start to be invaded by them
What about Bindweed?
Are ivy a weed? I can't get rid of it
💚👍👍Great lesson
Can i use any other calcium product than your product i live in sweden on a small farm and i cant get your oriducts here
Lime
It seems like bonemeal might be a good csndidate, very high in phosphorous and calcium
Wow, several doors gets opened.....great
Great video 🇳🇿🌱
Hydrogen occurs in two forms hydrogen ions acidly the soil and the hydrogen in water molecules. The formula for photosynthesis to make sugar and cellulose is 6 CO2 + 6 H20 yields one glucose ( C6 H12 O6) and 6 O2. I do not know why you say Hydrogen is needed by plants. You might say soil PH has to be in the right range and that depends on hydrogen ions. At 6:07 you say that the refractometer shows a clear blue line it means there is not much mineral just sugar. No matter what the solution is the line is a sharp line. We use them at work to check a variety of things. What makes the line between lit and not lit fuzzy is the light source and angle or the solution not being uniform. To say that one chemical would put a straight line at some reading and another would put a fuzzy line suggests you do not know how these things work. We get straight lines with salt solutions devoid of sugar.
All weeds are not the same... just like every property and the soil, exposure, elevation, latitude is not the same.
Every situation is different.
...
Whats the solution?
Highly educational
Thank you #SaveSoil #Consciousplanet
Thanks 🙏🏻
Nightshades?
BANGER
Please upload your videos for later watching!!
I love weeds
So I should be using granulated sugar instead of preen to keep my weeds away.? 😆 In all seriousness I'm about to buy one of those.
Bobby Kennedy hire this guy.
I wish they sold this for a General Public
A walking book, but far more targeted information!
Play at 1.5x to make this watchable.
That's too quick. 1.25x is ok.
Wow 😮
8:27 when weeds talk. Prob wondering now what kind of fruitloop..😂
Best resource to have.
What nonsense. weeds are no different from other plants on a chemical or biological basis - so they need exactly the same nutrients.
While it’s true that weeds, like all plants, need basic nutrients to grow, different plants have different nutrient preferences and tolerances. Weeds often thrive in soils where certain nutrient imbalances exist that may not be ideal for crops. For example, many weeds thrive in low-calcium or compacted soils, which crops may find challenging. Understanding and addressing these soil conditions can help manage weed growth and create a better environment for crops.
@@SoilWorksLLC-GSRCalciumAnd let's face it, no one is deliberately growing weeds. So why not engineer the soil to one's needs?
Blud is right for arguably true reasons. XD