2016 Seat Leon Service & Rear Brake Pad Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 มิ.ย. 2022
- In this video, we are carrying out a basic annual service and replacing the rear brake pads on a 2016 Seat Leon 1.4 TSI FR.
We show you the general checks that we carry out on all services to ensure the vehicle will be safe for another year and further more, an in depth detail on how to replace the rear brake pads. You will also see how we change out the oil and replace the oil filter.
We do address other previous MOT advisory items whilst we have the vehicle in the garage but will be dealt with off screen and will be featured in another video.
I hope you enjoy and if you do please give us a like and don’t forget to subscribe so you don’t miss out on any other tips to look after your own vehicle.
Awesome and helpful video. Thank you!
Thanks for your comment. Really happy the video helped 👍
Cracking video buddy ….. been trying to get the garage to do my brakes, but they are all busy for the next couple of weeks. I think I may attempt to try and do this myself. Watching your video certainly has give me the confidence to have a go. Just taking it nice and easy. Exactly the type of video I was looking for to give me that bit of a boost. Anyway, I have subscribes just in case I come across any other things I may need to do in the future. Well done and all the best. 👍😁
Hi John, thank you so much for the support and positive feedback. This is exactly the impression I’m trying to give in all my videos and no doubt you’ll be fine doing it yourself. There’s no need to rush, take your time, see how it all comes apart/goes together and you’ll be fine along with saving lots of labour cost. Lots more videos coming down the line so I’m sure there’ll be something you can pick and choose from. Thanks again 👍
@@greenautoservices much appreciated buddy and honestly it’s give me a lot of confidence. Just need to order the parts and then give it a go. Will let you know how I get on 👍😁
Hi there. I worked on my 2017 Seat Leon FR rear pads. While I had the caliper removed and wind back the piston with the same tool you showed, I couldn't get the last 2mm piston in so it wasn't flushed. I then decided to switched the car on and put the brake on to have the piston out again to wind again. This time it sticks out quite a lot to the edge of the caliper. I couldn't fit the winding tool in, I managed to use a pair of pliers to wind it back 2cm and I couldn't turn anymore. I noticed there is oil coming out of the rubber seal, only if I touch it. The rubber seal is not damaged and still in very good condition. The bleeder valve is closed throughout, I only had the lid of the reservoir opened. What should I do now? Have I wrecked it or is it just brake oil pressure resisting? Should I open the bleeder valve? Any advice is appreciated.
Hi there. Thanks for watching and getting in touch. Using the same wind back tool should have been able to push the caliper piston in enough to fit over a new set of pads. If the piston wouldn’t go back far enough then it is likely an indicator that the caliper may be internally faulty. The oil that you can see coming out from the protective boot is brake fluid. Sadly using a running engine to press the brake pedal will use excessive force and pop the piston out of the caliper body when there’s no pads or a discs to stop it coming out. I know it’s a bit late but you can use the brake peddle without the engine running and you’ll have a more slower controlled action. There is a rubber seal to stop brake fluid passing by the piston but the piston has come out too far and brake fluid has leaked out. You can try and push the piston back into the caliper but you won’t know if the seal is damaged or even gone back in correctly. I wouldn’t recommend doing this though. Unless you know how to repair a caliper and bleed it out then you will need to invest in a new caliper from a local supplier. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but when it comes to the braking system, I wouldn’t want to take any chances. Make sure to keep the old caliper. There will be a sur-charge, which you can get refunded if you give your supplier the old unit to send away and get refurbished. Hope this helps 👍
Can you 4 wheel align the Seat Leon MK3? I thought it had a torsion bar at the rear which allows for no alignment changes. I only ask as I asked to have all 4 done and was told this by the mechanic.
Cheers mate!
Hi there, thanks for getting in touch. As far as I’m aware the Seat Keon Mk 3 has a solid rear axle. There are no adjustments at all for tracking purposes. The only adjustments are on the front and even that is limited to Toe in/out. If you have the vehicle put onto a 4 wheel alignment and the tracking is out then it would indicate either a suspension component or the axle itself may be bent ever so slightly. Sadly not a lot you can do with the back independently unless you start replacing components. Hope that helps.
Great video! I've replaced pads and calipers plus both cables. Unfortunately the drivers side caliper goes over a fair way when handbrake ON The passenger side only goes over a little but both go back when handbrake OFF. I've used the adjuster in centre consol looks out of line ie 10 past 8 when handbrake ON if you know what I mean. Not equal kind of thing
Any ideas please??
Hi there, thanks for getting in touch. Yes, your clock analogy makes sense. If you're like me, I strive for perfection, even if it means getting that equaliser to be level when the handbrake is on. It's unlikely to be anything to do with the pads and presuming the calibers you purchased are new (or reconditioned through a reputable supplier) then a potential problem will be with one of the cables. Cables are a mine field as you have to be so exact with the lengths and fitments. What I would recommend first is raise each side of the car and use axle stands. See that with the handbrake off if either of the back wheels are binding not free to spin). Even the other way around, make sure that you cannot rotate the wheels by hand with the handbrake ON. This will at least narrow it down to one side or the under being at fault. Otherwise, as long as the hand brake holds when on, and releases when off, I would allow for some uneven wear. Keep me posted on what you find.
Thankyou for replying appreciated. Both calipers are recons from proper retailer. I could swap the cable and see if that makes a difference. I discussed with a mate at work, he said could have airlock in the caliper that's not pulling over much. I did think maybe cable
I'll try what you advised let you know.
@@bozzi1971 yes, process of illumination. Start with the easy things like a brake bleed just to make sure. Otherwise, you may have to dive in deeper to find if anything is at fault.
I'll have a bash at the weekend. I'll open bleed nipple on caliper check fluid flows incase air I system. Could try winding also. Thanks for replying also.
19:15 Hi, if the car has an electric handbrake, should you just apply the handbrake electronically after the pumping procedure?
Useful, wouldn't have minded a mention of electronic handbrake versions.
Glad it helped. I’ll be sure to make a video on electronic handbrakes as soon as possible. Although, the same principle applies but the internal electric motor in the calliper has to be retracted using a suitable diagnostic computer before being able to be pushed back. Thanks for your comment 👍
@@greenautoservices I did mine today, got stung on disc depth ! quite a few options of disc. Then found i didn't have an M14 spline to remove the calliper mount . I had seen people remove the discs without removing the mount but there is not enough clearance on the 272mm discs. All in all a fiddly job for a home mechanic requiring quite a few tools, luckily i had the scan tool for the calliper rewind.
@@nosas66 glad you got it sorted in the end. Like you correctly said, sometime you can remove the discs without taking off the carrier, always makes the job that little bit easier 👍
@@greenautoservices Where is the location to plug this computer in?
@@nosas66 Oh wow you are my saviour. I think I have the same sort of Leon. This explains why I couldn't wind the piston back. I have a scan device, where to plug this in and what function on the OBD scanner I should be using. My piston is sticking out quite a lot after several winding and brake back on to extend the piston. Am I in trouble now or is the scanner going to save my day?