Hello Peter, thanks for sharing your process. Certainly the results speak for themselves! Do you let the oil paint layers dry/cure before you add the next layer of varnish? Does the paint film affect the stability of the following layers of varnish? Many thanks.
Yes. I sure let the layers dry before aplying the next one. Then different varnishes has different drying times. A UV-cabinet also shortens the drying time. There is a rule in varnishing, -"Aply fat on lean" which means that you should go for a harder layer before the softer if you use different types.
@@westerlundsviolinverkstada9892 Thanks for your response. I’m sure you don’t want to give all of your secrets away, but does the fat over lean mean that it needs to be an oil varnish on top? I’m not sure I can work out what a fat spirit varnish would be.
The lean - fat expression is both from oil varnish. It is dependent of oil - resin ratio and also if there are softeners mixed in. High resin, such as kolophony makes it hard and "lean". A 50 - 50 oil - resin varnish is average fat and is what many factory varnishes are about. I use a high resin varnish from Old Wood in Spain. It is a 3:1 resin - oil.
Peter, i want to build a UV cabinet, could you please tell me your dimensions of the cabinet you use, how far should the tubes be away from the violin, and do you have reflector material inside the box. i have the ball tuner and fan, my tubes are 4ft, long, and do you monitor the heat inside, thank you
It is not so complicated. The tubes are not so warm that it is a danger for the instrument. I have a big hole on top of the cabinet so that the heat there is, can evaporate up through it. The size of it is your demand depending on what instrument that should go into it. I also have aluminum foil on the inside so that the rays are reflected.
Hello Peter, thanks for sharing your process. Certainly the results speak for themselves! Do you let the oil paint layers dry/cure before you add the next layer of varnish? Does the paint film affect the stability of the following layers of varnish? Many thanks.
Yes. I sure let the layers dry before aplying the next one. Then different varnishes has different drying times. A UV-cabinet also shortens the drying time. There is a rule in varnishing, -"Aply fat on lean" which means that you should go for a harder layer before the softer if you use different types.
@@westerlundsviolinverkstada9892 Thanks for your response. I’m sure you don’t want to give all of your secrets away, but does the fat over lean mean that it needs to be an oil varnish on top? I’m not sure I can work out what a fat spirit varnish would be.
The lean - fat expression is both from oil varnish. It is dependent of oil - resin ratio and also if there are softeners mixed in. High resin, such as kolophony makes it hard and "lean". A 50 - 50 oil - resin varnish is average fat and is what many factory varnishes are about. I use a high resin varnish from Old Wood in Spain. It is a 3:1 resin - oil.
@@westerlundsviolinverkstada9892 thanks! I’ll take a look.
Interesting, but unfortunatly the camera is on the wrong side.
Peter, i want to build a UV cabinet, could you please tell me your dimensions of the cabinet you use, how far should the tubes be away from the violin, and do you have reflector material inside the box. i have the ball tuner and fan, my tubes are 4ft, long, and do you monitor the heat inside, thank you
It is not so complicated. The tubes are not so warm that it is a danger for the instrument. I have a big hole on top of the cabinet so that the heat there is, can evaporate up through it. The size of it is your demand depending on what instrument that should go into it. I also have aluminum foil on the inside so that the rays are reflected.