There's no wrong answer if it works! For solvent welding, I use Weldon 4. Very nasty stuff, but it's a chemical joint, like ABS/Acetone, but with PETG. A quick scuff and CA glue also works. Either way, if you can deck the mating surfaces flat, it will promote a better joint. Once you have a tight, even engagement dry joint, go for it!
How about XTC 3D? It seems much easier than this. I also print at .16 so I have really fine layer lines. Going to try the XTC 3D to see how it goes. Thanks for the video.
glad ya liked it! I used bondo because that's what I had on hand. I found the super runny "premium" green stuff works awesome, the filler spray, not so much. If it works for you and you're happy, there's no wrong answer! Have heard great things about XTC. Thinner layers is definitely a way to get fewer layer lines, but would make each side a ~36 hour print. There are some really cheap MJF services now out of china, and I may stop printing these FDM and just have all of it outsource printed in Nylon overseas! Prices aren't bad!
@@schimmelengineering Just FYI I'm using a Comgrow T500 large format printer at . 16 and half of a grill for a Chrysler crossfire only took a day and 10 hours. Came out amazing. Printers have come a long way. Joseph FYI about using those Chinese services, they will steal your design. I already had a pair of side skirts stolen and I never made a penny as somehow Duraflex ended up with my design. Ends up Duraflex owner knows most of the injection molding and vacuum former companies in China or owns part of them and they just steal the designs they like. You'll definitely get your parts, but there will be alternatives at a cheaper price and you'll make no money. So I've decided to do things at a slower pace and keep everything in house. What is this green stuff you're talking about?
@@Gorilla_Jones As far as body filler, it's the light green shit. It's the "premium" stuff at oreilly. Not the blue stuff, and everyone has a name for it. Far runnier than the grey stuff with any of the activators. www.eastwood.com/eastwood-contour-premium-body-filler.html Printers have definitely come a long way... These side covers are an 8 hour print each with 1mm a nozzle, but I'm not really a speed demon. lol. These are 8 hour prints the way I have them sliced at .3mm with a 1mm nozzle. Even at 250C, I've got to print slow for good layer fusion. I'm willing to accept I'm behind the times on printer settings and hardware though. I've been using them as tools and not really pushing them. I'd love to know how fast you can burn a 1kg and 5kg spool of PETG. Would help me figure out how behind I am! The first time I have something stolen is probably the last time I send prints overseas. Recently quoted an MJF part that was $78 overseas, and $598 domestic. For machine packages, I try to break them up so no vendor has all the files. Dunno if that will stop it, but I'm trying.
This sander has an integrated fan that pulls through the holes in the paper loop block, even with no vacuum (integrated blower). Failing to line the holes up, just loads the paper faster. Running a vacuum on the sander is a more aggressive pull on the paper, keeping it clearer even longer.
If this is in regard to a Schimmel Engineering order, please head over to the contact section and let me know your order number so I can get it resolved. If this is about 3D prints of your own, time should not affect the brittleness of the prints. A good 3D print will shatter, and not delaminate. If you are experiencing layer delamination, then there are issues with print settings. All of my PETG parts are printed slowly at 250C and 80C enclosed chamber temperature. That's a good starting point. Can you let me know if this is a PETG print of your own, or one you purchased from me?
thanks for all advice and how to do that!
one question, what do you use to glue PETG prints?
There's no wrong answer if it works! For solvent welding, I use Weldon 4. Very nasty stuff, but it's a chemical joint, like ABS/Acetone, but with PETG. A quick scuff and CA glue also works. Either way, if you can deck the mating surfaces flat, it will promote a better joint. Once you have a tight, even engagement dry joint, go for it!
nice
How about XTC 3D? It seems much easier than this. I also print at .16 so I have really fine layer lines. Going to try the XTC 3D to see how it goes. Thanks for the video.
glad ya liked it! I used bondo because that's what I had on hand. I found the super runny "premium" green stuff works awesome, the filler spray, not so much. If it works for you and you're happy, there's no wrong answer! Have heard great things about XTC. Thinner layers is definitely a way to get fewer layer lines, but would make each side a ~36 hour print. There are some really cheap MJF services now out of china, and I may stop printing these FDM and just have all of it outsource printed in Nylon overseas! Prices aren't bad!
@@schimmelengineering Just FYI I'm using a Comgrow T500 large format printer at . 16 and half of a grill for a Chrysler crossfire only took a day and 10 hours. Came out amazing.
Printers have come a long way.
Joseph FYI about using those Chinese services, they will steal your design. I already had a pair of side skirts stolen and I never made a penny as somehow Duraflex ended up with my design.
Ends up Duraflex owner knows most of the injection molding and vacuum former companies in China or owns part of them and they just steal the designs they like.
You'll definitely get your parts, but there will be alternatives at a cheaper price and you'll make no money.
So I've decided to do things at a slower pace and keep everything in house.
What is this green stuff you're talking about?
@@Gorilla_Jones
As far as body filler, it's the light green shit. It's the "premium" stuff at oreilly. Not the blue stuff, and everyone has a name for it. Far runnier than the grey stuff with any of the activators.
www.eastwood.com/eastwood-contour-premium-body-filler.html
Printers have definitely come a long way... These side covers are an 8 hour print each with 1mm a nozzle, but I'm not really a speed demon. lol. These are 8 hour prints the way I have them sliced at .3mm with a 1mm nozzle. Even at 250C, I've got to print slow for good layer fusion. I'm willing to accept I'm behind the times on printer settings and hardware though. I've been using them as tools and not really pushing them. I'd love to know how fast you can burn a 1kg and 5kg spool of PETG. Would help me figure out how behind I am!
The first time I have something stolen is probably the last time I send prints overseas. Recently quoted an MJF part that was $78 overseas, and $598 domestic. For machine packages, I try to break them up so no vendor has all the files. Dunno if that will stop it, but I'm trying.
lol you only need to line up the holes on the sand paper if using a vacuum
This sander has an integrated fan that pulls through the holes in the paper loop block, even with no vacuum (integrated blower). Failing to line the holes up, just loads the paper faster. Running a vacuum on the sander is a more aggressive pull on the paper, keeping it clearer even longer.
Is it possible to get a mat finish coat as well? Thanks for the video
you use a matte clear instead of a gloss clear
What do you do to have the petg prints hold up for a long time? My print just got brittle and cracked after a few weeks.
If this is in regard to a Schimmel Engineering order, please head over to the contact section and let me know your order number so I can get it resolved. If this is about 3D prints of your own, time should not affect the brittleness of the prints. A good 3D print will shatter, and not delaminate. If you are experiencing layer delamination, then there are issues with print settings. All of my PETG parts are printed slowly at 250C and 80C enclosed chamber temperature. That's a good starting point. Can you let me know if this is a PETG print of your own, or one you purchased from me?
@@schimmelengineering it's one that I printed on my own, and my printer is an elegoo neptune 4 plus