Thank you for all your time and attention to detail. No apologies needed. I stayed to the end and waited for the ferris beuller, " why are you still here" scene.
Finally, nice to see someone who knows their stuff vs. just posting a youtube video that says look at me. On a side observation the battery pack was reverse connected, thus it won't work.;-)
Darren, my furnace is nearly identical to the one here and your step by step helped me disassemble, replace Burner and ignitor, clean it and put it back together so that it now works! Thanks!
I can't tell you how much your videos have helped me. I'm getting ready to troubleshoot our furnace (in October, of course!). I've already replaced the ATS on our rig solely based on a video you did, and the job was a complete success. If you ever do an actual hands-on school, I'll be planning a trip to Washington. In the meantime, your videos are my school. Thank you!
Great video and info. You hooked up the jumper pack backwards and that's why, the system didn't power up. You put the yellow wire on the positive clamp and the red wire on the black clamp. Thanks for sharing your repair knowledge. Fun to watch and learn 🙂
Darren this is fantastic reliable information I personally used your information to replace a squealing blower motor, replace the burner and electrode. Heater works like a NEW unit now. Keep up the fantastic videos and sharing your wealth of information.
Really enjoyed the video. I am new to RVing and I have used an electric heater plugged into our 110 at home. I tried my furnace yesterday since we purchased a used one and was told it did work. The blower would come on but then shut down. So as soon as the weather warms up with a day off, I will check my furnace. Again great video.
Yeah, finally another video. Thanks Darren, love these videos. Binged on all of them and I don’t even have an RV yet but as a remodeling contractor, problem solving is my everyday thing. Nice to see you doing it on other systems. You do it well and I like your style. Keep up the great work. I know that it’s a lot of work to do the videos but totally appreciated. Love the T-shirt.
I saw your kitty on the floor. At first he looked like a rug. Pretty fur. I am paying attention to you. Right tool for the job! Excellent information. Thanks for your vlog
I think your battery booster pack didn't work at the end (49:00) because it was hooked up backwards. You had the red furnace wire hooked up to the black booster cable and the yellow furnace wire hooked up to the positive booster cable. At the start of the video you hooked it up red to red and yellow to black. I've got a 40k btu suburban furnace mounted under the refrigerator in our 2003 Newmar Dutch Star DP with no outside access so I'm trying to learn all I can about trouble shooting it if and when something goes wrong.(We always use the heat pumps for heat when possible). Your videos are a big big help. We live in S.C. If I was in your area I would definately call you. Thanks Darren.!
Great video. I have a Dometic DLFD40 that stopped working. Only would click. Pulled it out after watching your other videos and found a loose wire from the breaker to the board. Hooked it up to test and it would turn on, ignite, then turn of the flame. Kept trying to relight. Checked the valve assembly (after watching your video) and solenoids were good. Did a little more research and found a thread on a site that explained this same problem----you can't bench test without the exhaust manifold on the unit!!! Started right up and ran like a charm! Wish I had known...
Shout out to you Darin, thanks thanks and again thanks for the time that you put in to our Community. There are many of us that don’t have this knowledge and you take your time to help us.
You have a calling to do way more in the area of RV repair training. I’d love to see a series on troubleshooting where the observer could make decisions on what to check next based on what is observed. I know it would take some time to put that together but it could be done. Thanks again, I’ve learned so much from you over the years.
Thank you for the kind comment. You may be happy to hear that we have recently launched a new site called My RV Works Academy. One of the features that we are developing for that site will be a concept following the Choose Your Own Adventure type repair. We will present an issue with relevant information, the student will then make a selection based off of what they think the problem is, they can click that link which will start a video explaining why the decision was correct or incorrect. If the wrong decision was made the video will then loop back to the decision point and they can make another selection. You are right though, developing that is taking us a lot more time than we had anticipated. But, we are developing it. All information regarding our Academy can be found on our Patreon site.
Darren, As an industrial Sparky my career and owning my company doing so having the young employees that are at the stage of their career you and I were so many years ago I can tell you, you and I have the same teaching structure. Keeping it simple enough to help us that are ignorant about these units like mine that is the second example, same situation how you've got this one on a bench and not accessible in the 5th wheel I've got. I've got the 12vpos with the negative now on a screw of good ground for the 12v input. " The thermo has it's 12 pos and neg as well. I opened and closed the "circuit breaker"/overload that DOT requires but still nothing coming from the unit. Your video is giving great insight of where to look at "what". I appreciate you and your information on this situation that I'm having at this time as winter is rapidly approaching. Luckily I've got the AC with heat pump along with the fireplace in the living room. The space heater is a nice addition if the temps get below the 40deg range as the heatpump tends to not operate with the colder temps. Thank you for the information you've provided sir. Greatly appreciated.
Thanks for all your videos. You just helped me solve the problem with my Burner. The probes had moved farther than 1/8 apart.. Moved them back and it fired right up. Thanks again.
1/8” gap is interesting as my 2016 mfg date Atwood manual that came with my AFLD40 says .375 or 3/8” is required distance from spark rod centerline to burner screen.
EXCELLENT tutorial and detailed discussion, you will go far with your attitude and friendly manner of helping. The more you help, the more people will see and that they want to help you grow. Keep It Up.......
Darren.... best furnace video yet. I also did notice as Hans did, that you had the positive and negative backwards on your power supply. I was thinking that a video in reference to tires would be great such as maintenance, inspection and explaining what all the information on the tires mean. There are clips on You tube however. you explain things so well.
This is a great learning video, I was able to help a friend of mine in repairing his furnace. It turned out to be the orifice tube had a spiderwebbed inside of it. Thank you for your videos
Thanks Darren enjoy watching your videos of repair and maintenance very educational I have been watching your videos now for about six monthsThanks Wayne
Great video, really simplified everything for me, now I know how to diagnose mine…..think I’m not getting the feedback voltage back to board, so flame shuts off
As I said before, you are an awesome instructor. Best how to videos I have watched. Too bad you didn't teach my college classes! Keep up the more than great videos!!!
Hi Bob, We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks Happy Camping, My RV Works Media Team
Darren- another great video that really showed me how to troubleshoot my furnace and what components make the thing work as well as what symptoms we can expect to present. I really appreciated the drill of if this is happening then what does this mean (i.e. igniter is firing and gas valve is opening then could it be the sale-switch?) That type of question and check-on-learning is particularly helpful! These are the best videos that I've found by a certified professional trying to help to repair our RVs! Thank you!
Absolutely awesome. Thanks so much! GREAT detailed video! You helped me troubleshoot my heater problem. One of your other videos "Atwood 8531-IV RV Furnace With Intermittent Heat " is the EXACT problem I'm having. I appreciate your expertise and that you've posted it to TH-cam. THANK YOU!
Your videos are awesome. Keep up the great work. I enjoy your jibber jabber 😂. I can fix stuff. You help me see how to take things apart so I don't break them apart.
Good job Darren. If there is a choice in learning I prefer too much information rather than just a brush on the surface. I came out of my industry in 1984 to teach vocational education. Four years later I went back to industry. An instructor should avoid assumptions that a student comes to the class with predetermined knowledge for it might be wrong or not enough to work into the depths of a procedure or device. In late 2019 I bought a 30 year old trqavel trailer to be my home. It’s my second RV. I have renewed the water heater with a new $20.00 thermocouple. I’ll work the furnace in May when weather is prime for such a project.
You have passed on so much knowledge. It is fantastic. I was actually working with a Dometic/Atwood Service Tech and I was not understanding what he wanted me to do thru emails. But then I found your videos and was able to get it going again. And Ya the dumb exhaust tube has to be on. That bit me for a bit too. LOL, Thanks for all your knowledge.
Love.your vids. Most hard installed appliances have a switch nearby for service work. Called a service swirlch. It is there to protect any serviceman from AC shock. Also very convenient to turn on and off for servicing. Thanks for your very well made vids. I have learned a lot from you
Hey, this is just an explanation of why the electrodes touching over the burner will cause the controller to shut the furnace down. For flame sensing, the controller board sends an AC current to the insulated electrode. This is current that flows one way and then the other way, back and forth. When the current gets to the flame, the flame only conducts the current in one direction (DC). This is called flame rectification. If the controller board sees the AC current it sent coming back going in only one direction (DC), then it knows the flame is conducting it. If it however it sees AC current that comes back flowing in both directions, then it knows the electrodes are touching (or the insulated electrode is grounding to the burner) because they won't rectify or block it in one direction like the flame and so it knows it's not the flame conducting and it'll shut it down. Of course, if no current returns at all it knows the flame has gone out and will also shut it down.
I have good sail and high limit, expecting electrode to start to spark and gas to open but neither happen. Have 12v going into board from sail and limit switches but not 12v coming back out to gas solenoids. If electrode does not spark (is bad) does that stop 12v to gas valve?
@@hopkinsno5 It does sound like either the ignition, gas valve or insufficient gas pressure from the propane tank. You can check your gas burners on your stove are working for gas pressure. You can listen for the gas valve click as it opens if you feed it 12 volts directly. If it doesn't click, the gas valve could be blocked and you can fix that by blowing it out or maybe it'll need to be replaced. Check the electrodes that they're clean and spaced properly. On the circuit board, it may have an LED light that flashes to let you know it's status or if there's a problem. Somewhere near the circuit board it'll tell you what each sequence of flashes mean. If everything checks out it could be the circuit board itself.
Super job on the propane explanation. Great content! Also, if the propane gets old, it may settle out ssme of the oil (gas reverts to the oil base) and as it gets to the bottom of the tank, the oil will begin to vaporize along with the propane and end up in the gas that is burning. (I'm an old LP tank driver and discovered the issue on some 3-4 year old 100# cylinders that were not used in a timely manner.) The propane needs to be relatively fresh or refilled recently. (I've also had some similar issues with my grill at the campground with oil residual on the tank/hose.) It needs to be used faster - kind of like leaving gasoline get old over the course of a winter - the wax part will loose its potential unless you put in an additive. Sorry - no additive for the propane.
Thanks for all your help now I think I know what’s wrong with my furnace 👍Question will the burner head also keep heat from getting hot instead just warm???
Darren, you are THE BEST guy at what you do that I have ever met! Thanks for always doing fantastic videos. Oh, my wife laughed about the woof-woof part. :)
I enjoy all your videos. I have worked on that same heater. I found a great wrench to use as a backup at Home Depot. It’s called a adjustable plumbers wrench. It’s similar to a crescent wrench but has very slim jaws. Works well in tight places.
Awesome video. So does anyone know where to get a Burner for the 8525? You said they don't make them but didn't state where you got the new part. Thanks
Hey Darren; great and informational video. Question is how do you turn the gas pipe out of the gas valve, with the unit installed? Keep the video coming, thanks
Unless you said and I missed it since oil is the reason for the burn out on the head how do we eliminate the oil. These are the type of information is really really good. Thank you so much for taking the time to go into detail information.!
2 days ago I decided to tackle my air conditioner not turning on. Instead I have fixed my furnace and hot water heater. I have learned more about what ac compared to bc from you in a 37 minute video yesterday then I had ever known. And I'm a electronics manager.( Ret.). lol
Just to help others , my atwood 8525 would run the 3 seconds and stop the gas , I cleaned burner and adjusted igniter , still didnt fix, So i ordered the circuit board and that fixed it, Thank you for your videos.
Thx a lot my atwood 8516 has no clicks so i am assuming its likely the sail switch...i will try to undo the housing to check if its dirty. Not sure how hard it will be to access it. I have external access in my LQ horsetrailer. Fan blows cold...no clicks. Thx for what you do!! Lorraine
AFMD30 just changed the control board due to water corrosion. With new board furnace will still not turn on, blower motor will not run. How do I check the control module up in the AC unit. I can hear a click in the ac when I try to turn the furnace on at the Dometic single zone lcd thermostat.
I own a Lance 825 Truck Camper and I cant get my furnace to even start. How you recommend I begin to troubleshoot. Great channel with awesome helpful information. I subscribed
Hey Darren, I had some great instructors at RV Tech school last year but I really understand things more with the way you teach. Have you thought of becoming an instructor at NRVTA in Athens, TX or other schools? Thanks for sharing all of your knowledge. 👍🏻
I think I finally figured out what I need to do with a capped blue wire coming from my Atwood AFMD25111. Needs to go to the relay in the AC box. not sure why it was capped and only 3 wires were coming down to the furnace box. I have 12v on the red + wire coming in. I cut and touched the 2 blue wires and still nothing... Also, when would the LED light on the control board light up?
Awsome video Darren - If I was seeing right the second time after the repair was completed you hooked up the polarity wrong - Yellow was ground and you hooked it up to the positive of the battery booster - if you watch your video you'll see what I mean.. Also being that that heat chamber was exposed to excessive heat due to the burner not regulating the flame I would of done an inspection for heat crackes due to the chamber being over heated...
At 36:26 , how do we really know that the burned up one is the right one. Someone could have changed it for the wrong one before we got it.???? ( just a question.)
Thanks Darren, this is really helpful. Love the many tips and tricks you're sharing. I'm about to dive in and see if I can find out what's going on with my 2008 NT-16S. Fan blows, I hear a tick, I smell faint LP, but no flame/ignition. It cycles 3 times as per the instructions then shuts off after 90 seconds. I replaced the electrode but to no avail, so I figure it's either the module (bad ignitor component?) or insufficient LP caused by a bad valve or blocked LP pinhole. Anyway, with the info you share, I feel better equiped to troubleshoot it even though I do foresee it'll be a pain to get it out of its hole...
Hello and thank you for all the info. I was wondering if it matters how you connect the two blue wires from the furnace to the thermostat? I had a different connector when replacing my furnace and was not able to verify which went to what. It does not seem to matter how I have them connected, the furnace kicks on, heats, and shuts off when I turn off... Thanks!
@@MyRVWorks yeah! Definitely was..as shared previously..I live in a camper...due to hard times... since there's only me,I have to keep it up...you are very helpful to me...absolutely!! Thank you so much! 😊😊😊❤
Hi Edward, We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks Happy Camping, My RV Works Media Team
wow I'm so thankful that you're doing this because of you doing this these videos I'm starting to learn and I'm living in an RV I've already fix the propane system in a thermal coupler and stuff like that and got my gas propane system working for the frigerator absorption refrigerator of course I still haven't figured out how to get the thermocoupler exactly out so I can scrape it off and do it all the black Carbon I had to do it the hard way with it in there but I mean I did do it and it worked
RE: Burner "blow out". You gave a lengthy, detailed explanation of the "what" (oil in the propane), the "how" (filling from big tanks), but did not give a clue about "where" (does the oil come from?). Are the large tanks carrying oil residue from the manufacturing process. Can there be oil present in the propane naturally occurring from the refining process, etc.?
Great video, thanks for taking the time and explaining the details of the entire circuit and function of the heater. our RV uses a 450D Aqua Hot system but it's nice to watch other systems and how they work in case someone asks me a question at an RV park. BTW the video on the 450 unit was fantastic!
Great video. I have watched this and some of your other ones but don't see one with my furnaces issue. I have a old Hydro flame that's in a 1997 Toyota Itasca. It wasn't turning on so I bypassed the thermostat and clamped the 2 thermostat wires together and it wanted to start but motor was struggling to turn. I took the unit out and got the fan to work great. But now whenever I put power to the unit it turns on regardless of thermostat wire positions and fan wont turn off until I remove power by disconnecting it from battery. I only bench tested this without gas connected. Any idea why it just keeps running and wont turn off? Thanks so much. Any help would be highly appreciated!
Daren, I just watched this video, I have no doubt that someone has commented that you had your large battery connected reverse polarity, after you reassembled the unit, but my question is this: was your battery actually that low, or did it fail to start because it was connected incorrectly ?
The other question today would be where can you buy one of the decent price because I'm looking at prices that are just outrageous for a little unit like that mine is an 08 and it's been used extensively we do live in the trailer and it finally went out so it's got good service out of it and I'd like to replace the whole unit to avoid future headaches so if you can put it in your thing who you recommend to go to to get parts at a decent price
Hi Darren, my name is Sherwin I watched almost all of your TH-cam videos. My question is do I need to be licensed elec or in HVAC to do like you do. I'm planning to change a career as RV tech. Pls send me your advice and I appreciate what your doing helping and teaching all your knowledge..I'm from Canada by the way.
The burner is telling you then that they had liquid P coming into the system which gives you a "uncontrolled burn" instead of a "controlled burn". Which then means the company filling the larger house tank is over filling the tank. The tank should only be filled to 80%. There are a couple possible reasons for that, but this is about the furnace issue. Very good class, Thank You.
Darren discuss this a little bit in the following video. The liquid in the line is not from the LP. It is being released from the rubber hoses connecting the tanks and cylinders to the RV LP appliances: th-cam.com/video/WG8UxIIrrQQ/w-d-xo.html
Once again you've done an excellent job here, Darren! My furnace is only accessible from the inside (Atwood 8525-IV DCLP) of my Zinger travel trailer. This is exactly what I needed to see! I have successfully removed my furnace and set it up on my bench to troubleshoot. Turns out mine, too, has a burned out burner head like the one you demonstrated here! I am awaiting the tune-up kit only (everything except the gas valve & circuit board) to be shipped! One thing I've noticed from your video is the igniter did not appear to have gasket under it. Neither does mine, however, the kit includes one! Are you using one? Also would like to know what model multi-meter are you using! Thanks again for your excellent instruction! It gave me the confidence I needed to tackle this project on my own saving me hundreds of dollars! I will also be looking into becoming a Patron of My RV Works, Inc! Thanks again and Merry Christmas to you and yours!
Thank you for all your time and attention to detail. No apologies needed. I stayed to the end and waited for the ferris beuller, " why are you still here" scene.
Finally, nice to see someone who knows their stuff vs. just posting a youtube video that says look at me. On a side observation the battery pack was reverse connected, thus it won't work.;-)
Darren… LOVED this one! One of your best, frankly. Helps me diagnose my suburban. OH.. as an amateur astronomer - I LOVE the shirt!!
Darren, there is no denying your enthusiasm for this stuff! That is what makes you such a good instructor.
You are the MAN!!!! With this video I was able to fix my furnace May God continue to bless you with your many gifts ,talents, and trades 👍
I love all the Video's I was a mobile technician and now a shop foreman.Super helpful videos especially the furnace and A/C ones.
This was a MASTER CLASS, I got a ton of value out of this one !!
Darren, my furnace is nearly identical to the one here and your step by step helped me disassemble, replace Burner and ignitor, clean it and put it back together so that it now works! Thanks!
I can't tell you how much your videos have helped me. I'm getting ready to troubleshoot our furnace (in October, of course!). I've already replaced the ATS on our rig solely based on a video you did, and the job was a complete success. If you ever do an actual hands-on school, I'll be planning a trip to Washington. In the meantime, your videos are my school. Thank you!
Great video and info. You hooked up the jumper pack backwards and that's why,
the system didn't power up. You put the yellow wire on the positive clamp and the red wire on the black clamp. Thanks for sharing your repair knowledge. Fun to watch and learn 🙂
Darren this is fantastic reliable information I personally used your information to replace a squealing blower motor, replace the burner and electrode. Heater works like a NEW unit now. Keep up the fantastic videos and sharing your wealth of information.
Thank you so much for all the work you do for us
Really enjoyed the video. I am new to RVing and I have used an electric heater plugged into our 110 at home. I tried my furnace yesterday since we purchased a used one and was told it did work. The blower would come on but then shut down. So as soon as the weather warms up with a day off, I will check my furnace. Again great video.
Yeah, finally another video. Thanks Darren, love these videos. Binged on all of them and I don’t even have an RV yet but as a remodeling contractor, problem solving is my everyday thing. Nice to see you doing it on other systems. You do it well and I like your style. Keep up the great work. I know that it’s a lot of work to do the videos but totally appreciated. Love the T-shirt.
This is anamazing video! I love the explanations as you go through the videos! Keep it up!!
I watched this video again and once again it saved me. This video is my favorite furnace video.
I saw your kitty on the floor. At first he looked like a rug. Pretty fur. I am paying attention to you. Right tool for the job! Excellent information. Thanks for your vlog
I think your battery booster pack didn't work at the end (49:00) because it was hooked up backwards. You had the red furnace wire hooked up to the black booster cable and the yellow furnace wire hooked up to the positive booster cable. At the start of the video you hooked it up red to red and yellow to black. I've got a 40k btu suburban furnace mounted under the refrigerator in our 2003 Newmar Dutch Star DP with no outside access so I'm trying to learn all I can about trouble shooting it if and when something goes wrong.(We always use the heat pumps for heat when possible). Your videos are a big big help. We live in S.C. If I was in your area I would definately call you. Thanks Darren.!
This is awesome information and always go to My RV Works video to learn how to do different fixes to my motorhome. THANK YOU Darren.
I’m a retired shop teacher, I can see your pasión to make sure your message gets across you have great videos very instructional
I feel much more confident playing with my heater! And watch all your videos! Thank you
This is most informative info. I believe I can get my furnace working as soon as soon as I receive the parts.
Great video. I have a Dometic DLFD40 that stopped working. Only would click. Pulled it out after watching your other videos and found a loose wire from the breaker to the board. Hooked it up to test and it would turn on, ignite, then turn of the flame. Kept trying to relight. Checked the valve assembly (after watching your video) and solenoids were good. Did a little more research and found a thread on a site that explained this same problem----you can't bench test without the exhaust manifold on the unit!!! Started right up and ran like a charm! Wish I had known...
Shout out to you Darin, thanks thanks and again thanks for the time that you put in to our Community. There are many of us that don’t have this knowledge and you take your time to help us.
I agree that these are great videos. One thing that makes them good is that they are NOT rehearsed, but are like an actual repair on site.
You have a calling to do way more in the area of RV repair training. I’d love to see a series on troubleshooting where the observer could make decisions on what to check next based on what is observed. I know it would take some time to put that together but it could be done. Thanks again, I’ve learned so much from you over the years.
Thank you for the kind comment. You may be happy to hear that we have recently launched a new site called My RV Works Academy. One of the features that we are developing for that site will be a concept following the Choose Your Own Adventure type repair. We will present an issue with relevant information, the student will then make a selection based off of what they think the problem is, they can click that link which will start a video explaining why the decision was correct or incorrect. If the wrong decision was made the video will then loop back to the decision point and they can make another selection. You are right though, developing that is taking us a lot more time than we had anticipated. But, we are developing it. All information regarding our Academy can be found on our Patreon site.
Darren,
As an industrial Sparky my career and owning my company doing so having the young employees that are at the stage of their career you and I were so many years ago I can tell you, you and I have the same teaching structure. Keeping it simple enough to help us that are ignorant about these units like mine that is the second example, same situation how you've got this one on a bench and not accessible in the 5th wheel I've got.
I've got the 12vpos with the negative now on a screw of good ground for the 12v input. "
The thermo has it's 12 pos and neg as well.
I opened and closed the "circuit breaker"/overload that DOT requires but still nothing coming from the unit.
Your video is giving great insight of where to look at "what". I appreciate you and your information on this situation that I'm having at this time as winter is rapidly approaching. Luckily I've got the AC with heat pump along with the fireplace in the living room. The space heater is a nice addition if the temps get below the 40deg range as the heatpump tends to not operate with the colder temps.
Thank you for the information you've provided sir. Greatly appreciated.
i'm a new tech. your channel is my go to. thanks so much
Yes, very helpful. Fixing two Atwood 8525s One a pig-squeal motor and the other with rodent nest. This session adds depth to the r and r videos.
Thanks for all your videos. You just helped me solve the problem with my Burner. The probes had moved farther than 1/8 apart.. Moved them back and it fired right up. Thanks again.
1/8” gap is interesting as my 2016 mfg date Atwood manual that came with my AFLD40 says .375 or 3/8” is required distance from spark rod centerline to burner screen.
EXCELLENT tutorial and detailed discussion, you will go far with your attitude and friendly manner of helping. The more you help, the more people will see and that they want to help you grow. Keep It Up.......
Darren.... best furnace video yet. I also did notice as Hans did, that you had the positive and negative backwards on your power supply. I was thinking that a video in reference to tires would be great such as maintenance, inspection and explaining what all the information on the tires mean. There are clips on You tube however. you explain things so well.
it wouldnt start because you had the red wire hooked up to the neg on battery pack and the black wire was on the positive on the battery pack..
He fucked that ip
I saw this stupid guy did that
Your furnace videos give me warm feelings.....cus it gets 'em working again!
Ha!
This is a great learning video, I was able to help a friend of mine in repairing his furnace. It turned out to be the orifice tube had a spiderwebbed inside of it. Thank you for your videos
Thanks Darren enjoy watching your videos of repair and maintenance very educational I have been watching your videos now for about six monthsThanks Wayne
Great video, really simplified everything for me, now I know how to diagnose mine…..think I’m not getting the feedback voltage back to board, so flame shuts off
WOW! Great Video Darren!!! Thank You so much.
As I said before, you are an awesome instructor. Best how to videos I have watched. Too bad you didn't teach my college classes! Keep up the more than great videos!!!
Hi Bob,
We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks
Happy Camping,
My RV Works Media Team
Hello,
Did I hear you say that they don't make the burner for the 8525 lll ?
I ask because that's the one I have.
Darren- another great video that really showed me how to troubleshoot my furnace and what components make the thing work as well as what symptoms we can expect to present. I really appreciated the drill of if this is happening then what does this mean (i.e. igniter is firing and gas valve is opening then could it be the sale-switch?) That type of question and check-on-learning is particularly helpful! These are the best videos that I've found by a certified professional trying to help to repair our RVs! Thank you!
Keep em coming, and thanks for being so detailed in all your vids !
Absolutely awesome. Thanks so much! GREAT detailed video! You helped me troubleshoot my heater problem.
One of your other videos "Atwood 8531-IV RV Furnace With Intermittent Heat
" is the EXACT problem I'm having. I appreciate your expertise and that you've posted it to TH-cam.
THANK YOU!
This is amazing. Thanks so much, Darren! I think your battery pack may have been okay but the positive and ground were crossed there at the end?
Your videos are awesome. Keep up the great work. I enjoy your jibber jabber 😂. I can fix stuff. You help me see how to take things apart so I don't break them apart.
Going to level one cert. training next week and this video helped alot. thank you!
Good job Darren. If there is a choice in learning I prefer too much information rather than just a brush on the surface. I came out of my industry in 1984 to teach vocational education. Four years later I went back to industry. An instructor should avoid assumptions that a student comes to the class with predetermined knowledge for it might be wrong or not enough to work into the depths of a procedure or device. In late 2019 I bought a 30 year old trqavel trailer to be my home. It’s my second RV. I have renewed the water heater with a new $20.00 thermocouple. I’ll work the furnace in May when weather is prime for such a project.
You have passed on so much knowledge. It is fantastic. I was actually working with a Dometic/Atwood Service Tech and I was not understanding what he wanted me to do thru emails. But then I found your videos and was able to get it going again. And Ya the dumb exhaust tube has to be on. That bit me for a bit too. LOL, Thanks for all your knowledge.
Another great video thanks I love learning how things work to be able to troubleshoot,
Wonderful presentation Darren, your videos are great. Thanks so much
Love.your vids.
Most hard installed appliances have a switch nearby for service work. Called a service swirlch. It is there to protect any serviceman from AC shock. Also very convenient to turn on and off for servicing.
Thanks for your very well made vids. I have learned a lot from you
Hey, this is just an explanation of why the electrodes touching over the burner will cause the controller to shut the furnace down. For flame sensing, the controller board sends an AC current to the insulated electrode. This is current that flows one way and then the other way, back and forth. When the current gets to the flame, the flame only conducts the current in one direction (DC). This is called flame rectification. If the controller board sees the AC current it sent coming back going in only one direction (DC), then it knows the flame is conducting it. If it however it sees AC current that comes back flowing in both directions, then it knows the electrodes are touching (or the insulated electrode is grounding to the burner) because they won't rectify or block it in one direction like the flame and so it knows it's not the flame conducting and it'll shut it down. Of course, if no current returns at all it knows the flame has gone out and will also shut it down.
I have good sail and high limit, expecting electrode to start to spark and gas to open but neither happen. Have 12v going into board from sail and limit switches but not 12v coming back out to gas solenoids. If electrode does not spark (is bad) does that stop 12v to gas valve?
@@hopkinsno5 It does sound like either the ignition, gas valve or insufficient gas pressure from the propane tank. You can check your gas burners on your stove are working for gas pressure. You can listen for the gas valve click as it opens if you feed it 12 volts directly. If it doesn't click, the gas valve could be blocked and you can fix that by blowing it out or maybe it'll need to be replaced. Check the electrodes that they're clean and spaced properly. On the circuit board, it may have an LED light that flashes to let you know it's status or if there's a problem. Somewhere near the circuit board it'll tell you what each sequence of flashes mean. If everything checks out it could be the circuit board itself.
Super job on the propane explanation. Great content! Also, if the propane gets old, it may settle out ssme of the oil (gas reverts to the oil base) and as it gets to the bottom of the tank, the oil will begin to vaporize along with the propane and end up in the gas that is burning. (I'm an old LP tank driver and discovered the issue on some 3-4 year old 100# cylinders that were not used in a timely manner.) The propane needs to be relatively fresh or refilled recently. (I've also had some similar issues with my grill at the campground with oil residual on the tank/hose.) It needs to be used faster - kind of like leaving gasoline get old over the course of a winter - the wax part will loose its potential unless you put in an additive. Sorry - no additive for the propane.
Thanks for all your help now I think I know what’s wrong with my furnace 👍Question will the burner head also keep heat from getting hot instead just warm???
Darren, you are THE BEST guy at what you do that I have ever met! Thanks for always doing fantastic videos. Oh, my wife laughed about the woof-woof part. :)
Thanks for taking the time to show us how to trouble shoot the heater.
My go to RV Tech
I enjoy all your videos. I have worked on that same heater. I found a great wrench to use as a backup at Home Depot. It’s called a adjustable plumbers wrench. It’s similar to a crescent wrench but has very slim jaws. Works well in tight places.
Nice job ! Thank you!
Awesome video. So does anyone know where to get a Burner for the 8525? You said they don't make them but didn't state where you got the new part. Thanks
Great video, I had a problem with a furnace and it was the control board but the video helped greatly determine what the problem was.
Thank you!,, do you have a video for taking the furnace motor out and replacing?
Mine is also a Atwood, comes on , heats up to the set temp ( thermostat ) goes off , but will not relight automatically when the temp drops back down
Hey Darren; great and informational video. Question is how do you turn
the gas pipe out of the gas valve, with the unit installed? Keep the video coming, thanks
Awesome furnace video, learned a lot! Maybe I can figure mine out now!
Unless you said and I missed it since oil is the reason for the burn out on the head how do we eliminate the oil. These are the type of information is really really good. Thank you so much for taking the time to go into detail information.!
2 days ago I decided to tackle my air conditioner not turning on. Instead I have fixed my furnace and hot water heater. I have learned more about what ac compared to bc from you in a 37 minute video yesterday then I had ever known. And I'm a electronics manager.( Ret.). lol
Just to help others , my atwood 8525 would run the 3 seconds and stop the gas , I cleaned burner and adjusted igniter , still didnt fix, So i ordered the circuit board and that fixed it, Thank you for your videos.
Great video as usual... Thank you. As a fellow PA resident, joined your Patreon
Keep these awesome video coming! I’m restoring my 2006 and I have applied your experience. Thanks Darren
Thx a lot my atwood 8516 has no clicks so i am assuming its likely the sail switch...i will try to undo the housing to check if its dirty. Not sure how hard it will be to access it. I have external access in my LQ horsetrailer. Fan blows cold...no clicks. Thx for what you do!! Lorraine
AFMD30 just changed the control board due to water corrosion. With new board furnace will still not turn on, blower motor will not run. How do I check the control module up in the AC unit. I can hear a click in the ac when I try to turn the furnace on at the Dometic single zone lcd thermostat.
I own a Lance 825 Truck Camper and I cant get my furnace to even start. How you recommend I begin to troubleshoot. Great channel with awesome helpful information. I subscribed
red is + yellow _ you had it around the wrong way when conected to the battery pack ,,, @48.51
I noticed the same thing :-)
Hey Darren,
I had some great instructors at RV Tech school last year but I really understand things more with the way you teach. Have you thought of becoming an instructor at NRVTA in Athens, TX or other schools?
Thanks for sharing all of your knowledge. 👍🏻
I think I finally figured out what I need to do with a capped blue wire coming from my Atwood AFMD25111. Needs to go to the relay in the AC box. not sure why it was capped and only 3 wires were coming down to the furnace box. I have 12v on the red + wire coming in. I cut and touched the 2 blue wires and still nothing... Also, when would the LED light on the control board light up?
Awsome video Darren - If I was seeing right the second time after the repair was completed you hooked up the polarity wrong - Yellow was ground and you hooked it up to the positive of the battery booster - if you watch your video you'll see what I mean.. Also being that that heat chamber was exposed to excessive heat due to the burner not regulating the flame I would of done an inspection for heat crackes due to the chamber being over heated...
Thanks for this one. It answer a lot of my questions about how the furnace works
At 36:26 , how do we really know that the burned up one is the right one. Someone could have changed it for the wrong one before we got it.???? ( just a question.)
That was a great video. one of the best explanations on you tube
Thanks Darren, this is really helpful. Love the many tips and tricks you're sharing. I'm about to dive in and see if I can find out what's going on with my 2008 NT-16S. Fan blows, I hear a tick, I smell faint LP, but no flame/ignition. It cycles 3 times as per the instructions then shuts off after 90 seconds. I replaced the electrode but to no avail, so I figure it's either the module (bad ignitor component?) or insufficient LP caused by a bad valve or blocked LP pinhole. Anyway, with the info you share, I feel better equiped to troubleshoot it even though I do foresee it'll be a pain to get it out of its hole...
Hello and thank you for all the info. I was wondering if it matters how you connect the two blue wires from the furnace to the thermostat? I had a different connector when replacing my furnace and was not able to verify which went to what. It does not seem to matter how I have them connected, the furnace kicks on, heats, and shuts off when I turn off... Thanks!
Great job having an understanding of circuit ales trouble shooting a lot easier thanks
Great information and great explanation of everything your doing and how things work!
Thank you very much...I live in a camper and I follow everything you're saying.. very useful data!😊😊
Glad it was helpful!
@@MyRVWorks yeah! Definitely was..as shared previously..I live in a camper...due to hard times... since there's only me,I have to keep it up...you are very helpful to me...absolutely!! Thank you so much! 😊😊😊❤
Long? Yes. Informative? Absolutely. Thanks.
Hi Edward,
We are so glad to hear that our videos were able to help you! If you would like to support us please consider becoming an "RV Community Supporter" on our Patreon site: www.patreon.com/myrvworks
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My RV Works Media Team
wow I'm so thankful that you're doing this because of you doing this these videos I'm starting to learn and I'm living in an RV I've already fix the propane system in a thermal coupler and stuff like that and got my gas propane system working for the frigerator absorption refrigerator of course I still haven't figured out how to get the thermocoupler exactly out so I can scrape it off and do it all the black Carbon I had to do it the hard way with it in there but I mean I did do it and it worked
RE: Burner "blow out". You gave a lengthy, detailed explanation of the "what" (oil in the propane), the "how" (filling from big tanks), but did not give a clue about "where" (does the oil come from?). Are the large tanks carrying oil residue from the manufacturing process. Can there be oil present in the propane naturally occurring from the refining process, etc.?
All your videos are great information 👍 thanks you
Most excellent video thank you very much
Great video, thanks for taking the time and explaining the details of the entire circuit and function of the heater. our RV uses a 450D Aqua Hot system but it's nice to watch other systems and how they work in case someone asks me a question at an RV park. BTW the video on the 450 unit was fantastic!
You're the best Darren! I would like to know what you wear to work. You look very professional.
And I always wondered about the filter...or lack there of...now I know😊
Great video. I have watched this and some of your other ones but don't see one with my furnaces issue. I have a old Hydro flame that's in a 1997 Toyota Itasca. It wasn't turning on so I bypassed the thermostat and clamped the 2 thermostat wires together and it wanted to start but motor was struggling to turn. I took the unit out and got the fan to work great. But now whenever I put power to the unit it turns on regardless of thermostat wire positions and fan wont turn off until I remove power by disconnecting it from battery. I only bench tested this without gas connected. Any idea why it just keeps running and wont turn off? Thanks so much. Any help would be highly appreciated!
Your a very good teacher/tech
Daren, I just watched this video, I have no doubt that someone has commented that you had your large battery connected reverse polarity, after you reassembled the unit, but my question is this: was your battery actually that low, or did it fail to start because it was connected incorrectly ?
The other question today would be where can you buy one of the decent price because I'm looking at prices that are just outrageous for a little unit like that mine is an 08 and it's been used extensively we do live in the trailer and it finally went out so it's got good service out of it and I'd like to replace the whole unit to avoid future headaches so if you can put it in your thing who you recommend to go to to get parts at a decent price
Hi Darren, my name is Sherwin I watched almost all of your TH-cam videos. My question is do I need to be licensed elec or in HVAC to do like you do. I'm planning to change a career as RV tech. Pls send me your advice and I appreciate what your doing helping and teaching all your knowledge..I'm from Canada by the way.
The burner is telling you then that they had liquid P coming into the system which gives you a "uncontrolled burn" instead of a "controlled burn". Which then means the company filling the larger house tank is over filling the tank. The tank should only be filled to 80%. There are a couple possible reasons for that, but this is about the furnace issue. Very good class, Thank You.
Darren discuss this a little bit in the following video. The liquid in the line is not from the LP. It is being released from the rubber hoses connecting the tanks and cylinders to the RV LP appliances: th-cam.com/video/WG8UxIIrrQQ/w-d-xo.html
Once again you've done an excellent job here, Darren! My furnace is only accessible from the inside (Atwood 8525-IV DCLP) of my Zinger travel trailer. This is exactly what I needed to see! I have successfully removed my furnace and set it up on my bench to troubleshoot. Turns out mine, too, has a burned out burner head like the one you demonstrated here! I am awaiting the tune-up kit only (everything except the gas valve & circuit board) to be shipped! One thing I've noticed from your video is the igniter did not appear to have gasket under it. Neither does mine, however, the kit includes one! Are you using one? Also would like to know what model multi-meter are you using! Thanks again for your excellent instruction! It gave me the confidence I needed to tackle this project on my own saving me hundreds of dollars! I will also be looking into becoming a Patron of My RV Works, Inc! Thanks again and Merry Christmas to you and yours!
Really appreciate the videos, Darren!