This is really fantastic. I'm a commercial producer by way of the camera department, and your intuition about adding the anti-twist mechanism is smart. Everything attached to the camera should have some sort of anti-twist feature, even the high end accessory arms have anti-twist pins. Second thing: if you do happen to run into vibration issues, sometimes more rigidity isn't the answer... When we put cameras on vehicles/aircraft, we'll often use vibration isolaton mounts (typically between the arm and the gimbal the camera is on) which are just a set of parallel plates with curved steel cables linking the plates to each other. The number and gauge of the cables is (roughly) calculated based on the payload. This does an excellent job filtering out higher frequency vibrations (the gimbals can handle the big moves) and removes shake or "jello" (rolling shutter artifacts from vibration). I'm pretty sure these were adapted from other industries so you might already be aware, but thought it might help. Love the channel and the dedication to capturing your work at high fidelity. The hard work is not unnoticed or unappreciated!
Interesting. Yeah, I've done some work with camera mounts on small drones, back in the day when you couldn't just buy what you need off the shelf. I remember Kurtis (CEE) showing a helicopter camera mount constructed as you describe, with a two plates linked by a ring of bent sections of cable.
You know if you have a speed control on your motor and you ran that a little slower than you were running it when you had it under power cutting the stock you could run that right up to where you want to stop pull out and put the machine in reverse that's how the Europeans threat they don't have a thread chaser and it doesn't matter they leave the half nut engaged until they are done.
@@chauvinemmons What you describe is exactly what I did, except that the minimum speed for my lathe is still faster than I can run the thread mill. That's why I turned it by hand.
That Deckel grinder copy is nice. We thread milled mold cores, cuz the end becomes the start of the molded thread. Also the nice finish. The saddle grinder did well. Congrats !
I have been watching manual machining channels for several years now and thread milling is a new one to me. Looks right popular for CNC machines, but CNC isn't interesting to watch for more than several years.
New subscriber here. I’ve known about thread milling for many years but never saw it done before. Thanks for showing all the operations on the camera mount. That big Noga looks like a brute.
hello james!I've been watching your channel for a long time and I like your approach to work.And I'm thrilled about the humor.make more videos with a humorous slant.Good luck with the projects.Hello from Russia
I *would* like to see it in future videos - would love to see a follow up on how this might be set up on a lathe or mill, so we can see how you can work the lathe, see what you're doing, and the camera can see the action without getting in the way 🙂❤
I have never seen, or rarely seen, threads being cut like that with the cutter spinning. That is far superior way of cutting threads versus normal thread cutting with a fixed cutting tool, and having to worry a lot more about the feeds and speeds. I found this video because I was searching for CNC's with cameras. I recently added cameras to my CNC controller software with computer vision algorithms to automatically reposition the machine to zero on the X and Y axes, using 2 microscope cameras. To have camera screens right there on your computer screen of the CNC controller software is very useful. Even without computer vision algorithms, I can manually put a 0.9mm drill bit, into a 0.9mm hole using only 2 microscope cameras. But with the computer vision turned on, I can just hit the "Go" button and it will do the same thing. To see it work on video looks so cool because you can the computer vision finding the drill hole, and drawing a green circle around it. I have a video on my channel showing that process. I make CNC software.
That's really cool. I've seen a camera used as an edge or center finder, and I'm aware of machine vision systems, but I've never had the privilege of seeing one in action.
@@Clough42 Well, if you got $20 to buy 2 USB microscope cameras, I will give you a copy of my CNC controller software, and you can implement it on one of your hobby CNC's and see it in action at your home. To see it automatically find the hole, and get "nothing but net" when you do a Z down, and the drill bit enters the hole exactly is pretty cool. I can see a 0.01mm move on the CNC machine on the screen. You can see it move a tiny tiny bit. That is with the "Super FIne" button turned on my controller software. If you hit the "Fine" button, the moves will be 0.1mm and the moves look huge and clumsy on the screen, when you are using a cheap USB microscope camera. So the microscope cameras are probably getting me up to 0.01mm in accuracy. And it works quickly with no thinking. I always love the no thinking part.
Thanks! Yeah, it's pretty magic. I feel the same way about 3D printing. I have an idea, spend a few minutes at the computer, and then a robot makes it for me while I do something else.
i actually ordered a smaller noga arm from amazon and they sent me the big boy...i notified them..they told me to keep it and not send back...i always thought of makig it a camera arm....great video...thanks james...
Some gun blue would keep it from rusting and make it look like part of the factory Noga tool. The "thread mill" on your lathe clearly shows how incredible your ELS really is. Nice job James 👍
Hi Folks, similar holders are made specifically for holding video gear, eg on camera monitors. Noga make some of the better ones, another good manufacturer is iFootage (no connection!). There are others. Search for 'Camera rig clamps or brackets'. They are available with the standard 1/4 and 3/8 inch camera fittings. They are available in the States from the likes of B&H. In the UK try ProAV or CPV. The Noga model James is demonstrating is particularly rigid but iFootage have come up with some new designs that might prove equally interesting and I suspect quite a bit cheaper.
Very nice, clean and practical result! It's always fun to make these kind of quality-of-life improvements in the shop. Sometimes I wonder if my own shop exists only to make such items for itself. Ha.
Incredible quality of video. You are one of the best CNC video makers ever. Really. I love that Noga Big Boy magnetic indicator holder. My goodness that thing is cool. I also loved the part of your video of the 3D modeling CAD software and how you moved around the part while talking and showed all the concepts you were explaining. I wished you had mention the name of the software. I will look for it on your other videos. Now back to the video.
@@Clough42 Thanks for both of those bits of info. That's the best I have seen Fusion 360 look before. I think part of it is that space mouse, ...well, and you doing the driving. I did not know of the Space Mouse, and after researching it on youtube, it is perfect for what you need in your presentations. It really makes a huge difference in the quality of your videos, which are of such high quality. Its like watching a Dude Perfect video. The quality of production is so high, I am more focused on the production than what you are actually talking about. I get schooled when I come here.
Nice work - I did enjoy learning about thread milling. I would have liked to see a final shot using the mount in a challenging situation to end with but I'm sure I'll see it vibration free in the future.
Just for fun, low buck magnetic CB antenna mounts are 1/4-20 threads and can be bought dirt cheap. Not adjustable on an arm, but can make for useful mounts in a lot of situations.
Hi James, thanks for an informative video. More years ago than I claim to remember, about 1962, I attended a demonstration put on by a local highschool machine shop class of an attachment they had built that fastened to the cross slide of a lathe. I think they were using a Myford ML 7 or super 7. Make was of no consequence as the attachment was custom to the machine in use. It resembled a steady rest in that it had a round frame that surrounded the work piece. Inside the round part was a rotatable cutter head which was driven by another motor. It was not synchronized to the lathe perse but the carriage slide was driven by the leadscrew. The cutter was a single point to suit the thread being cut and was rotated at about ten times the rotational speed of the lathe. I would think the faster the better. The tool was advanced into the work by the position of the cross slide. The quality and finish of the threads produced were excellent and fast. You could thread to or from a shoulder easily though having a run-out groove was desirable. They referred to the technique as "thread swirling." I've never seen a device like it since but your using your TPG and that cutter brought it to mind. Regards from Canada's banana belt. 👍🇬🇧🍌🇺🇦🕊️🇨🇦🤔🇺🇲🤞
Gday James, one day I’ll own a noga arm, sadly I’ll have to wait till I win the lotto, the camera mount turned out great, I don’t think there’s any fear of the falling off, brilliant job, cheers
Oh crap, now that I have your ELS working on my Atlas, I have to build a tool post grinder, right now I’m using a small die grinder hose clamped to a piece of round stock clamped In my Aloris style tool post . Keep doing stuff James, love your videos.
Thanks for this. I have wanted a Noga Big Boy for awhile, but here in Europe they cost almost $400 and I just can't justify that for the limited use I will be putting it to. Nice solution with that plate and I appreciate your thread milling the M4 thread.
As usual, another nicely done educational video... Use what you have!.... Idon't have a spindle to cut threads on the lathe. My method is the more farm-ish method of welding the stud... Difference is, I paint my finished part where you leave it polished & bare to show the craftmanship.
Great video. I’ve used the els to manually cut threads before but not with a mill cutter that was cool. I think I would have just used x and y offsets from center to drill the holes to save the time setting up bolt circle
Curious if milling a pocket in the plate to engage the wrench flats, then using a flathead M6 screw would have solved the problem? Perhaps it was rejected because it would eliminate the opportunity to demonstrate ELS threadmilling!
Yeah, something tells me that the thread milling was the whole premise behind the design because honestly, it would have been an overall better part if it was just a flat plate of aluminum with a hole and countersunk M6 screw or a hole with a deep enough counter bore for a socket head (or even button head) cap screw since those option would have resulted in a lighter part with less fear of the fastener breaking as mentioned as to why he chose 1144 S/P... I mean, Plus all that material waste for nothing just to get a M6 diameter pin to thread.
I thought about it, but I wanted an integral stud so I could have a solid shoulder to engage the counterbore in the end of the ball socket. I tried a couple of designs with a boss to engage the counterbore, and a hole drilled through it for a screw, but the wall thickness was well under half a millimeter, and I just couldn't make it work in a way I thought would actually add strength.
@CJ A reasonable guess, but no. I wanted the unthreaded shoulder to engage the counterbore in the socket to add strength, and couldn't find a way to do that with a screw. There just wasn't enough material left after drilling it out and threading. Aluminum would have added basically nothing with that small of a cross-section.
@@Clough42 I was thinking it would have saved you a lot of time and material if you'd turned the puck with a hole in it and then either press-fit or Loctite 638'd the stud in. Even if you'd then turned the stud and threaded it (after the Loctite set - 5 mins 'ish) in situ for concentricity. I'd be curious about the helix angle between the thread and the thread mill. Clearly it worked well and therefore I'm over-thinking it but in my head, the cutter needs to be at an angle. Is there just too little engagement for it to make any difference? Would it only matter if we were talking something like an M30 thread? I have similar issues with carbide inserts for Joe Pieczynski's threading away from the chuck with a left hand insert....but I've not found the time to really experiment. That would have been another way of threading to (or away from) that shoulder....but I'll give you that the thread milling was cooler!
@@Cenedd the thread mill is ground specifically for interpolating holes on a CNC mill, so the geometry of the cutter is designed to be parallel to the thread axis.
Cool. I can understand why you would want to thread mill. Many times a speed that allows a bit of reflex time, also produces a poor cut. What I don’t understand is why you made the stud integral to the larger part. A much stronger device would have been made by pressing a stud through the part. Perhaps I think this way due to doing stress analysis before computer modeling became the rage. Then a part was made out of acrylic. It was then placed between crossed polarized sheets and stressed. The stress lines would then show. Better stress signature from a stud because there is no stress riser in the corner.
Real nice job James. I especially enjoyed seeing you utilize your ELS for the thread milling. I see that you also used the tool post grinder you built too. Again, real nice job!
Oh James. James James James. You’re good, damn good. Lol. But seriously I find it very satisfying watching you work. You have a very clean, precise and methodical approach that reminds me very much of watching a toolmaker or horologist. (Even with the little tap interference) 😉
I thought I was seeing some serious clickbait with a sci-fi thumbnail! Excellent work on the thread milling. I honestly would not have thought of that, so i'll add it to my list of options. THAT SAID... I am curious as to why you chose to thread mill vs. using a more obvious, or traditional, die to cut the threads.
I needed a complete thread all the way up to the shoulder, and the die has a taper. Yes, it can be reversed, but it still doesn't make a complete thread all the way to the end.
Oh that's way more sturdy than the stuff that normally gets sold as camera equipment on Amazon: I got a dolly/skate thing that came with basically a knock off Noga arm, intended to thread right in to 1/4-20 (or the larger camera stuff thread, 3/8 something?). It usually can hold itself, an RX100, and some additional accessories, without falling over, but it sure doesn't inspire that much confidence or look nearly that smooth...
Robin Renzetti has a good video on how he mounts his cameras. One of the better tricks is making mounts on the ceiling (or wall) that the arm can stick to, just weld up a bracket of appropriate size over your lathe & bolt it to the rafters. That gives a lot of vibration reduction compared to mounting on the lathe itself.
Excellent; a great adapter. Also great as that shoe plate is just what I need as I've got the big, heavy Manfrotto tripod and was looking for some less expensive adapters.
coulda machined a recess for the ball head top section, with its wrench flats, and use a hex head 6 mm bolt through the adapter...for extra locking, maybe set screws that capture the wrench flats, which insures against any loosening of the fit, and also prevents the adapter from coming of if the 6 mm bolt comes loose, at some point...as a 'traveling' photographer, I've had vehicle vibration completely disassemble things, so...
Weird I just stumbled into this today. I just last night re-purposed a rollaround "big eye" (lighted magnifying glass) on wheels, with articulating arm to mount my camera, so I could position it most anywhere in my garage, pointed at most anything!
Very nice job, when roughing the OD for the thread you alternatively could have done the same facing strategy you were doing to quickly remove the bull of the material, but stopping shy of your target diameter and leaving material for a cleanup pass.
Great video James, fantastic solution, recon the Noga should be able to support the camera :). I do wish I had access to a machine shop sometimes. It would certainly save time looking for multiple adapters on Amazon to get the job done!
Love all your videos.. I'm just wondering why you chose to put the M6 thread on the end of your part when you had plenty of material to just machine a ball there. would of been way sturdier and stronger then the M6 thread.
Nice work as always! I'm glad I saw this, I was thinking of getting a big boy as the Nogaflex is a little small. The Big Boy is TOO big for me to use with an indicator! Thanks James!
If you can measure the frequency of the vibration you should be able to tune it out with a mass damper. There are some equations to calculate the correct mass. Rigidity and mass are what u can tune to reduce vibration.
For a closed system operating in a narrow frequency range, like a helicopter, something like this could make sense. For a milling machine or lathe that will be run at a wide variety of speeds with different tooling, I'm not sure it's practical.
Top speed today is close to 100RPM, but that's too fast for this cutter under these conditions. I need to get the back gear (belt) reinstalled, and then it will go down to about 15RPM.
I know you wanted to show off the thread milling, but I always tell new engineers it is much more efficient to drill a hole and bolt it instead of an integrated male thread on a part. Something similar that could have been done (assuming you needed the tight clearance to the set screws) would be to thread the plate M6, then use a set screw of appropriate length. You can either stake the screw into the plate, use a backup set screw to lock it, or some red loctite.
Oof, wish I would've had one of those camera mounting plates. Went to adjust the tilt on my tripod and flipped the plate release instead of the adjuster. Only cost me the lens , but it was my only wide angle lens and I was at the Grand Canyon.
Great quality video as usual James. Curious as to why you didn’t just counterbore the centre and use a high tensile M6 cap screw? Although throughly enjoyed the ELS with threadmill.
I use a Sherline milling head on the cross-slide of my lathe for thread milling. Sometimes I turn the spindle by hand! (Clough42 ELS powered, of course.) Edit: Nickel plate it!
This is really fantastic. I'm a commercial producer by way of the camera department, and your intuition about adding the anti-twist mechanism is smart. Everything attached to the camera should have some sort of anti-twist feature, even the high end accessory arms have anti-twist pins. Second thing: if you do happen to run into vibration issues, sometimes more rigidity isn't the answer... When we put cameras on vehicles/aircraft, we'll often use vibration isolaton mounts (typically between the arm and the gimbal the camera is on) which are just a set of parallel plates with curved steel cables linking the plates to each other. The number and gauge of the cables is (roughly) calculated based on the payload. This does an excellent job filtering out higher frequency vibrations (the gimbals can handle the big moves) and removes shake or "jello" (rolling shutter artifacts from vibration). I'm pretty sure these were adapted from other industries so you might already be aware, but thought it might help.
Love the channel and the dedication to capturing your work at high fidelity. The hard work is not unnoticed or unappreciated!
Interesting. Yeah, I've done some work with camera mounts on small drones, back in the day when you couldn't just buy what you need off the shelf. I remember Kurtis (CEE) showing a helicopter camera mount constructed as you describe, with a two plates linked by a ring of bent sections of cable.
Are you aware of any guides to sizing the wire rope isolators?
You know if you have a speed control on your motor and you ran that a little slower than you were running it when you had it under power cutting the stock you could run that right up to where you want to stop pull out and put the machine in reverse that's how the Europeans threat they don't have a thread chaser and it doesn't matter they leave the half nut engaged until they are done.
@@chauvinemmons What you describe is exactly what I did, except that the minimum speed for my lathe is still faster than I can run the thread mill. That's why I turned it by hand.
That Deckel grinder copy is nice. We thread milled mold cores, cuz the end becomes the start of the molded thread. Also the nice finish. The saddle grinder did well. Congrats !
My man I would watch a video of you mowing the lawn or loading a dishwasher. Your process is incredible.
I have been watching manual machining channels for several years now and thread milling is a new one to me. Looks right popular for CNC machines, but CNC isn't interesting to watch for more than several years.
I wonder how many of my favorite TH-camrs would love one of these!
Love it! I use a Big Boy mount to hold a heavily modified 1 gallon plastic bucket up close to the chuck to control the chips.
Really Right Stuff is a good source for plate fixings and such.
New subscriber here. I’ve known about thread milling for many years but never saw it done before. Thanks for showing all the operations on the camera mount. That big Noga looks like a brute.
hello james!I've been watching your channel for a long time and I like your approach to work.And I'm thrilled about the humor.make more videos with a humorous slant.Good luck with the projects.Hello from Russia
One of the absolute best instructional videos I’ve seen! Looking forward to all your videos. Thanks James for taking such great care!
I *would* like to see it in future videos - would love to see a follow up on how this might be set up on a lathe or mill, so we can see how you can work the lathe, see what you're doing, and the camera can see the action without getting in the way 🙂❤
I have never seen, or rarely seen, threads being cut like that with the cutter spinning. That is far superior way of cutting threads versus normal thread cutting with a fixed cutting tool, and having to worry a lot more about the feeds and speeds. I found this video because I was searching for CNC's with cameras. I recently added cameras to my CNC controller software with computer vision algorithms to automatically reposition the machine to zero on the X and Y axes, using 2 microscope cameras. To have camera screens right there on your computer screen of the CNC controller software is very useful. Even without computer vision algorithms, I can manually put a 0.9mm drill bit, into a 0.9mm hole using only 2 microscope cameras. But with the computer vision turned on, I can just hit the "Go" button and it will do the same thing. To see it work on video looks so cool because you can the computer vision finding the drill hole, and drawing a green circle around it. I have a video on my channel showing that process. I make CNC software.
That's really cool. I've seen a camera used as an edge or center finder, and I'm aware of machine vision systems, but I've never had the privilege of seeing one in action.
@@Clough42 Well, if you got $20 to buy 2 USB microscope cameras, I will give you a copy of my CNC controller software, and you can implement it on one of your hobby CNC's and see it in action at your home. To see it automatically find the hole, and get "nothing but net" when you do a Z down, and the drill bit enters the hole exactly is pretty cool. I can see a 0.01mm move on the CNC machine on the screen. You can see it move a tiny tiny bit. That is with the "Super FIne" button turned on my controller software. If you hit the "Fine" button, the moves will be 0.1mm and the moves look huge and clumsy on the screen, when you are using a cheap USB microscope camera. So the microscope cameras are probably getting me up to 0.01mm in accuracy. And it works quickly with no thinking. I always love the no thinking part.
I like the subtle blondie hacks reference "chamfer cause we have opposable thumbs"
Yeah, Quinn is awesome.
Bruce here,this is why I love machining you had a need developed a plan took a piece of steel and made that cool looking part.
Thanks! Yeah, it's pretty magic. I feel the same way about 3D printing. I have an idea, spend a few minutes at the computer, and then a robot makes it for me while I do something else.
watched for the threading on the lathe.. good idea for lite weight bench top lathes
Its not fair, making your own rig gear while the rest of suffer with retail. Great project, glad you made a solid solution to an age old problem.
Once again, a very pleasant, thoughtful video inclusive of innovative ideas, eg. threading with the tool post grinder. Thank you, Sir!
I love watching good machine tools being used. Very good video, i learned a couple things i will add to my tool kit.
i actually ordered a smaller noga arm from amazon and they sent me the big boy...i notified them..they told me to keep it and not send back...i always thought of makig it a camera arm....great video...thanks james...
Some gun blue would keep it from rusting and make it look like part of the factory Noga tool. The "thread mill" on your lathe clearly shows how incredible your ELS really is. Nice job James 👍
Thanks! The blue is a good idea for reducing reflections.
Great project- a real blast from the past...ELS + TPG = Golden Oldies. Well Done James.
Love it, can't buy something that solid!
Hi Folks, similar holders are made specifically for holding video gear, eg on camera monitors. Noga make some of the better ones, another good manufacturer is iFootage (no connection!). There are others. Search for 'Camera rig clamps or brackets'. They are available with the standard 1/4 and 3/8 inch camera fittings. They are available in the States from the likes of B&H. In the UK try ProAV or CPV. The Noga model James is demonstrating is particularly rigid but iFootage have come up with some new designs that might prove equally interesting and I suspect quite a bit cheaper.
Very nice, clean and practical result! It's always fun to make these kind of quality-of-life improvements in the shop. Sometimes I wonder if my own shop exists only to make such items for itself. Ha.
I am accused of only using my tools to make more tools on a regular basis. :)
ELS and tool post grinder - great stuff as usual!
Incredible quality of video. You are one of the best CNC video makers ever. Really. I love that Noga Big Boy magnetic indicator holder. My goodness that thing is cool. I also loved the part of your video of the 3D modeling CAD software and how you moved around the part while talking and showed all the concepts you were explaining. I wished you had mention the name of the software. I will look for it on your other videos. Now back to the video.
That's Fusion 360. I'm navigating using a SpaceMouse.
@@Clough42 Thanks for both of those bits of info. That's the best I have seen Fusion 360 look before. I think part of it is that space mouse, ...well, and you doing the driving. I did not know of the Space Mouse, and after researching it on youtube, it is perfect for what you need in your presentations. It really makes a huge difference in the quality of your videos, which are of such high quality. Its like watching a Dude Perfect video. The quality of production is so high, I am more focused on the production than what you are actually talking about. I get schooled when I come here.
Nice work - I did enjoy learning about thread milling. I would have liked to see a final shot using the mount in a challenging situation to end with but I'm sure I'll see it vibration free in the future.
Elegant outcome! Love the threadmilling, I’ve been meaning to try that sometime. Thanks James 👍
Just for fun, low buck magnetic CB antenna mounts are 1/4-20 threads and can be bought dirt cheap. Not adjustable on an arm, but can make for useful mounts in a lot of situations.
Enjoyed watching a competent machinist work! Learned a few things and subscribed. Noga indicator arms are the way to go! 👍🏼
Hi James, thanks for an informative video.
More years ago than I claim to remember, about 1962, I attended a demonstration put on by a local highschool machine shop class of an attachment they had built that fastened to the cross slide of a lathe. I think they were using a Myford ML 7 or super 7. Make was of no consequence as the attachment was custom to the machine in use. It resembled a steady rest in that it had a round frame that surrounded the work piece. Inside the round part was a rotatable cutter head which was driven by another motor. It was not synchronized to the lathe perse but the carriage slide was driven by the leadscrew. The cutter was a single point to suit the thread being cut and was rotated at about ten times the rotational speed of the lathe. I would think the faster the better. The tool was advanced into the work by the position of the cross slide. The quality and finish of the threads produced were excellent and fast.
You could thread to or from a shoulder easily though having a run-out groove was desirable. They referred to the technique as "thread swirling." I've never seen a device like it since but your using your TPG and that cutter brought it to mind.
Regards from Canada's banana belt. 👍🇬🇧🍌🇺🇦🕊️🇨🇦🤔🇺🇲🤞
We do still use these they are a thread whirler often used on a sliding head lathe to produce long small diameter threads.
Gday James, one day I’ll own a noga arm, sadly I’ll have to wait till I win the lotto, the camera mount turned out great, I don’t think there’s any fear of the falling off, brilliant job, cheers
Nicely done.
Nicely done! As always, I appreciate your quirky sense of humour.
Another beautifully produced video... Thanks for Sharing ... Stay safe and Well .....
Very elegant
Love the thread milling
Oh crap, now that I have your ELS working on my Atlas, I have to build a tool post grinder, right now I’m using a small die grinder hose clamped to a piece of round stock clamped In my Aloris style tool post . Keep doing stuff James, love your videos.
Nice job James.
Got two of those big boys. One full length and one I shortened both arms on for a half sized version.
Oh, cool. You just shortened the arms, cut new snap ring grooves and shortened the aluminum push rods?
Thanks for this. I have wanted a Noga Big Boy for awhile, but here in Europe they cost almost $400 and I just can't justify that for the limited use I will be putting it to. Nice solution with that plate and I appreciate your thread milling the M4 thread.
I believe he said it was an M6 thread.
What a great, straightforward setup for live tooling! Always love your vids!
Tool post set up is pretty slick, I’ll have to look up that video. Nice work
Mr James.
It was long ago. I'm half the man I was then. :)
Love the Noga holders! Nice adapter James.
Great job. I thought the thread milling was a particularly nice touch. Great video!
Thanks for sharing!
I use my Knipex parallel pliers on the chuck jaws to rotate the chuck slowly 🙂.
As usual, another nicely done educational video... Use what you have!.... Idon't have a spindle to cut threads on the lathe. My method is the more farm-ish method of welding the stud... Difference is, I paint my finished part where you leave it polished & bare to show the craftmanship.
Great video. I’ve used the els to manually cut threads before but not with a mill cutter that was cool. I think I would have just used x and y offsets from center to drill the holes to save the time setting up bolt circle
Curious if milling a pocket in the plate to engage the wrench flats, then using a flathead M6 screw would have solved the problem?
Perhaps it was rejected because it would eliminate the opportunity to demonstrate ELS threadmilling!
Yeah, something tells me that the thread milling was the whole premise behind the design because honestly, it would have been an overall better part if it was just a flat plate of aluminum with a hole and countersunk M6 screw or a hole with a deep enough counter bore for a socket head (or even button head) cap screw since those option would have resulted in a lighter part with less fear of the fastener breaking as mentioned as to why he chose 1144 S/P... I mean,
Plus all that material waste for nothing just to get a M6 diameter pin to thread.
I thought about it, but I wanted an integral stud so I could have a solid shoulder to engage the counterbore in the end of the ball socket. I tried a couple of designs with a boss to engage the counterbore, and a hole drilled through it for a screw, but the wall thickness was well under half a millimeter, and I just couldn't make it work in a way I thought would actually add strength.
@CJ A reasonable guess, but no. I wanted the unthreaded shoulder to engage the counterbore in the socket to add strength, and couldn't find a way to do that with a screw. There just wasn't enough material left after drilling it out and threading. Aluminum would have added basically nothing with that small of a cross-section.
@@Clough42 I was thinking it would have saved you a lot of time and material if you'd turned the puck with a hole in it and then either press-fit or Loctite 638'd the stud in. Even if you'd then turned the stud and threaded it (after the Loctite set - 5 mins 'ish) in situ for concentricity.
I'd be curious about the helix angle between the thread and the thread mill. Clearly it worked well and therefore I'm over-thinking it but in my head, the cutter needs to be at an angle. Is there just too little engagement for it to make any difference? Would it only matter if we were talking something like an M30 thread? I have similar issues with carbide inserts for Joe Pieczynski's threading away from the chuck with a left hand insert....but I've not found the time to really experiment. That would have been another way of threading to (or away from) that shoulder....but I'll give you that the thread milling was cooler!
@@Cenedd the thread mill is ground specifically for interpolating holes on a CNC mill, so the geometry of the cutter is designed to be parallel to the thread axis.
Well, this was an excellent video!
Well done Build......thanks for sharing.....Paul in Florida
Awesome build! Love these videos!
you are in a very good shape!
Interesting method have too look up the ELS.
Perfect!
Cool. I can understand why you would want to thread mill. Many times a speed that allows a bit of reflex time, also produces a poor cut. What I don’t understand is why you made the stud integral to the larger part. A much stronger device would have been made by pressing a stud through the part. Perhaps I think this way due to doing stress analysis before computer modeling became the rage. Then a part was made out of acrylic. It was then placed between crossed polarized sheets and stressed. The stress lines would then show. Better stress signature from a stud because there is no stress riser in the corner.
Great project!
Real nice job James. I especially enjoyed seeing you utilize your ELS for the thread milling. I see that you also used the tool post grinder you built too. Again, real nice job!
Oh James. James James James. You’re good, damn good. Lol. But seriously I find it very satisfying watching you work. You have a very clean, precise and methodical approach that reminds me very much of watching a toolmaker or horologist. (Even with the little tap interference) 😉
Outstanding
Neat way to thread👍🏻
I thought I was seeing some serious clickbait with a sci-fi thumbnail! Excellent work on the thread milling. I honestly would not have thought of that, so i'll add it to my list of options. THAT SAID... I am curious as to why you chose to thread mill vs. using a more obvious, or traditional, die to cut the threads.
I needed a complete thread all the way up to the shoulder, and the die has a taper. Yes, it can be reversed, but it still doesn't make a complete thread all the way to the end.
Oh that's way more sturdy than the stuff that normally gets sold as camera equipment on Amazon: I got a dolly/skate thing that came with basically a knock off Noga arm, intended to thread right in to 1/4-20 (or the larger camera stuff thread, 3/8 something?). It usually can hold itself, an RX100, and some additional accessories, without falling over, but it sure doesn't inspire that much confidence or look nearly that smooth...
Good looking rig!
Nice job as usual
OK, I'm definitely going to have to do some equivalent to this one day... great stuff as usual, James.
One trick I use to force steels to break a chip is using a relatively low sfm and a deep cut.
Nice work!
Robin Renzetti has a good video on how he mounts his cameras. One of the better tricks is making mounts on the ceiling (or wall) that the arm can stick to, just weld up a bracket of appropriate size over your lathe & bolt it to the rafters. That gives a lot of vibration reduction compared to mounting on the lathe itself.
Planning to do exactly this.
That was really great work. Nice job
Best line of the show "This is something you will NOT be seeing on the channel" 🎥
Excellent; a great adapter. Also great as that shoe plate is just what I need as I've got the big, heavy Manfrotto tripod and was looking for some less expensive adapters.
coulda machined a recess for the ball head top section, with its wrench flats, and use a hex head 6 mm bolt through the adapter...for extra locking, maybe set screws that capture the wrench flats, which insures against any loosening of the fit, and also prevents the adapter from coming of if the 6 mm bolt comes loose, at some point...as a 'traveling' photographer, I've had vehicle vibration completely disassemble things, so...
Weird I just stumbled into this today. I just last night re-purposed a rollaround "big eye" (lighted magnifying glass) on wheels, with articulating arm to mount my camera, so I could position it most anywhere in my garage, pointed at most anything!
That's a good idea, too.
Great sharing
Nice!
Very nice job, when roughing the OD for the thread you alternatively could have done the same facing strategy you were doing to quickly remove the bull of the material, but stopping shy of your target diameter and leaving material for a cleanup pass.
Yes, but I have no power cross feed, and I can guarantee I would have gone past my mark and destroyed the part on one of the passes. :)
Awesome work as always!
Great video as usual!
Awsome machining as usual!
Great video James, fantastic solution, recon the Noga should be able to support the camera :). I do wish I had access to a machine shop sometimes. It would certainly save time looking for multiple adapters on Amazon to get the job done!
It's like owning a 3D printer; everywhere you look, you find applications.
Very nice.
You make machining look really easy but in reality it's not. Now I wish I would have not sold my Taig micro lathe. Super nice video !
Love all your videos.. I'm just wondering why you chose to put the M6 thread on the end of your part when you had plenty of material to just machine a ball there. would of been way sturdier and stronger then the M6 thread.
Oh i see you wouldent be able to install it back into the holder.
Looking good siry bob
I enjoyed watching this. Clearly a few levels above my DIY skills, haha!
Nice work as always! I'm glad I saw this, I was thinking of getting a big boy as the Nogaflex is a little small. The Big Boy is TOO big for me to use with an indicator! Thanks James!
If you can measure the frequency of the vibration you should be able to tune it out with a mass damper. There are some equations to calculate the correct mass. Rigidity and mass are what u can tune to reduce vibration.
For a closed system operating in a narrow frequency range, like a helicopter, something like this could make sense. For a milling machine or lathe that will be run at a wide variety of speeds with different tooling, I'm not sure it's practical.
Well what I think is that is a first rate camera mount. Inspires me to do something for myself.
Go for it, Harold! I'll be curious to see what you come up with.
What you need is a back gear for the lathe so top speed is say 100rpm. I've been thinking about doing it on mine for a while (very similar lathe)
Top speed today is close to 100RPM, but that's too fast for this cutter under these conditions. I need to get the back gear (belt) reinstalled, and then it will go down to about 15RPM.
I know you wanted to show off the thread milling, but I always tell new engineers it is much more efficient to drill a hole and bolt it instead of an integrated male thread on a part. Something similar that could have been done (assuming you needed the tight clearance to the set screws) would be to thread the plate M6, then use a set screw of appropriate length. You can either stake the screw into the plate, use a backup set screw to lock it, or some red loctite.
Oof, wish I would've had one of those camera mounting plates. Went to adjust the tilt on my tripod and flipped the plate release instead of the adjuster. Only cost me the lens , but it was my only wide angle lens and I was at the Grand Canyon.
Bad (expensive) day.
As always a good job well done thks for the content..
Great quality video as usual James. Curious as to why you didn’t just counterbore the centre and use a high tensile M6 cap screw? Although throughly enjoyed the ELS with threadmill.
or a M6 to 1/4-20 adapter, NOGA sell one, but where's the fun in that? ;)
Sometimes machinists just wanna make things
Yep, and then he could've made the plate out of aluminum to reduce weight
Very nice part, but if base is mounted to machine, machine vibration will still multiply out that arm
I use a Sherline milling head on the cross-slide of my lathe for thread milling. Sometimes I turn the spindle by hand! (Clough42 ELS powered, of course.)
Edit: Nickel plate it!
Nice!
I would have made that adaptor, If I had a camera and a YT channel and a lathe and a mill and a........ 😆 Nice Job looks great.
Nice