Haha, I'm a new hobby machinist with a junky old used lathe. Just two days ago I was working on a project, facing the end of a piece and the end came out domed! I watched carefully and could see the tool moving the right as I cut! I checked everything, all tight, saddle and cross slide locked, so confused! Then I figured out I never finished tightening the chuck! It was nice to see I'm not the only one who makes that sort of mistake, thanks for leaving that in the video.
For a finish pass, I use aluminum inserts. Slowish speed, good high pressure oil, and go. Even the cheapest inserts do a great job and you can take as little as a thou or two and get a glass finish. People give me hell for it, but 20 alum inserts are the same price as one good insert for steel... so I use one edge per part and toss them.
He did a nice job but the line I found funny was he did not feel like looking up wrench flat information in Machinery handbook. I'm thinking 5/8 or 16mm does not take that much research.
Yeah seemed a bit dodgy. I would have just used any metric wrench size where the flats were approx the right depth on the round stock. I think that is one of the problems working in imperial, less standardisation.
As with others - definitely interested in the casting. What I'm thankful for is it really should be compatible with any lathe, assuming similar swing. The bolt holes can go anywhere needed!
I had read on 6 finger chucks have reduced surface pressure so you can tighten more without damage but obviously can cause some issues with the work being forced back into the chuck. Good catch on seeing it happen.
Definitely interested in a casting. I've been meaning to do this with my 9x20 for a few years, apart from the sticker shock of a piece of Dura-Bar big enough to make it from.
Suggestion for stopping before a shoulder when threading: I'm sure there are a few GPIO pins left on the electronic leadscrew. I'd bet there is some sort of digital output on the DRO. Run a feed from the DRO carriage position to the ELS, and some way to tell the ELS to stop at the current position. Set the carriage where you want it to stop, tell the ELS, and thread. When it moves left to the final position it stops driving the leadscrew.
Or try making a hard stop with a push to break switch imbedded in the face. Set the stop on the bed so the carriage hits it at the end of the thread, the switch breaks a circuit to stop the lead screw and the stop arrests the carriage. It might need some Nylon facing to soften the impact, but the carriage speed is not too great and the lead screw has little inertia.
Little tip: You could wrap around exactly one layer of emery paper over the finished side (the rough side out) and then rechuck it..... This way you prevent the damage of the hardend jaws on the nicely finished first side. :)
I have enjoyed this series tremendously James. Having made patterns and cast stuff in aluminum, in my past this is very relatable. I am pleased that you went the path you did with this, as it was for me a nice journey to follow along with. When I saw it painted in the beginning of the video I was pleased with what you had done, suits it perfectly. Anyhow, good job! Kind regards, South Africa
I second what Uncle Duncan said. I've really enjoyed the journey from idea to positive to negative to casting to a finished part. I am no longer going to avoid castings in my design process. Thanks for the great series James!! I always enjoy your channel (And I learn soooo much !!!!)
@@Clough42 Since *_it would appear_* you clean up your chips after every operation/job, do you save the chips of the more frequently used or expensive stock (properly categorized, of course) for potentially reducing them to ingots, or is this just my packrat tendencies seeping through? 👀 EDIT: This is the train of thought that goes through my mind each time I watch you rough out a large piece of stock to half its original size. LMAO
I'd be happy taking 50 thou depth of cut passes on a benchtop lathe. Your modifications over the years have really increased that machine's functionality. 👍
I spent most of Feb & March studying insert & tool holder specs, coding, coatings & geometries as research for purchasing a bunch of tooling for my newly acquired mill & supplementing my meager turning tooling. An upshot of cramming all this info into my brain, was realizing how many different kinds of 'chip breakers' exist. The next time I turned something I was in a similar sitch as you were, long azz strings. No chatter or other issues, but strings. I've had strings get caught, then fling swarf into my face; twice strings have thrown sliders w/ chunks curving right around (wrap around type) safety glasses into my eyeball. I started pay very close attention to how the cut material was hitting, (missing) the minute chip breaker features. I changed the angle of attack of the insert by rotating the tool post. To my surprise, the strings stopped & chips broke off. I had a difficult time reproducing the same angle after changing tooling for a feature. I've since been experimenting w/ angle of attack. The jury is still out, but I've had more success w/ this than DoC or SFM changes. Food for thought; I know you like to experiment, & aren't afraid to color outside the lines. I saw someone mention sharpening inserts, (saved Stephen's vid on it, but haven't got to it). I've been sharpening/conturing inserts since I first got some & didn't know you shouldn't (why?). I've had some very good success putting small radii & razor sharp edges on inserts when out of the box is making me crazy. Wear a good mask & work over an easily cleaned surface... cadmium in the inserts are bad juju. GeoD
It never ceases to amaze me how some people just have to find something negative in a video. If they can't just enjoy the talent and workmanship of the person making the video PLEASE don't watch or at least don't comment.... Thanks for Sharing ... Stay Safe and Well....
Machining 4140 on a small lathe is tough. Obviously it depends on the insert too, but I have similar experience to yours - I got a good chip only when pushing it a bit harder. For me it was at least 0.22-0.25mm per revolution, so more like 10 thou. I have lathes big enough to handle it, but on a smaller lathe, yeah, pretty tough.
Huge salute to you and all machinist on youtube, when i have a “bad day” in the shop or at leaset something that isint going my way i get stressed, hot and angry. The last thing i would want any1 to do was to record and upload it hahah. But it is of course always learning. Thanks for the great video.
Personal opinion i would like to "glue" the locating pin with high strenght locktite only on the bottom. Blue/medium locktite on the lower part of the center screw you made to prevent it loosening without you noticing and it will still be easy to remove if needed without heating the whole part
Having rebuilt a number of machines, I would highly recommend clearcoating the new paint. You’ll find that tge rattle can paints are prone to chipping, and will easily stain with cutting oils and cast iron dust. If you use a clear coat formulated for alloy rims, you’ll find it more durable, not as “chippy”, and more resistant to chemicals. Easily touched up, and has a nicer gloss ( in my opinion 🤡)
Project Farm tested several rattle can metal paints. There were a couple that are very damage resistant, but preparation of the surface is a big part too.
Despite the chip problem that 4140 machines to a lovely surface finish. Thanks for sharing what items were used in the video. I can't tell you how much I appreciate that. The only other TH-camr I know that does that is Louis Rossmann.
I was giggling when you drilled the entire hole at the bottom of the deep hole in the toolpost device. Surely once you had dialled in the mill XY to match the first hole you could have removed the toolpost device and the mill would have still drilled in the same place... Then spat my drink out when you REAMED it at the bottom of the deep hole too! LOL you had already drilled the hole in the workpiece, where did you think the reamer was going to go? I know you're a smart guy, which probably makes the giggle moments even funnier. 😎
First I would not call that a deep hole it is not uncommon to drill 1/4 inch holes over 6 inches deep. Second if you are drilling a dowel hole in two pieces that have control surface like the tight fit stud you would have to drill then bore location 2% under reamer size then core a control ring about .0005 under reamer .050 deep then ream other wise you can have problems drills will not give you a hole right on location spot drills will not be right on location and reamers will push to a side slightly. The way he did this is common practice in tool shops.
@@terryallemann2654 ... apart from he drilled with a drill bit that was SMALLER than the hole in the toolpost device. So having the device present did not contribute any guide effect. It was all down to the dial-in based on the device. Then the device did not need to be there lol.
@@terryallemann2654 ... yeah there are 2 ways to do the job. 1. You can use the dial on the guide hole, set the mill XY, and then use a stiff centre drill to establish the pilot hole in the workpiece in the correct XY position. In that case the guide hole is no longer needed and should be removed. 2. You mechanically use the guide hole, with a transfer device like a transfer punch or drill bit of the exact same size. Hopefully that will establish the pilot hole in the correct location but causes 2 problems; that drill bit is too big to ream later, or something might go wrong with the transfer punch mark when you drill with a smaller pilot drill. What he did in the video was dial in the mill XY to the guide hole (good) but then started the holes in the workpiece with no centre drill, no punch, and with a long flexible drill bit. That obviously can cause XY error because fhe pilot drill is smaller than the guide hole in the toolpost.. Then, he reamed using the guide hole. That is a bad idea because the greatest force on the reamer is the new pilot hole which is a few thou smaller than the reamer, and it will centre the reamer on the pilot hole. That centering force of fhe pilot hole is much greater than the centering force of the larger guide hole which is a slide fit around the reamer. So if there was xy error it does not fix it, the reamer follows the pilot (XY error) hole, and chews out the side wall of the guide hole destroying the guide toolpost... In my opinion, the best way to do this job was to dial in the XY, then remove the guide hole toolpost, then use a short stiff centre drill and then a normal pilot drill and then ream. All 3 of those ops would have been far better and easier without the superfluous and deep guide hole getting in the way.
@@wizrom3046 With the little machine experience I have I still stand that the way clough42 and the tool holder manufactured recommended is the better way to insure every thing lines up.
Very nice. I would be interested in a casting. I have the same multifix currently mounted to my compound. I need to remake my tool post stud so this video is perfect for me.
love the pro tip "if it's smoking and gold color it too hot to grab" great project. hammered finish paint help hide bad welds too. hahum, not that i ever had to hide welds, heard from a friend. thanks for sharing!
Excellent part. I mounted my PeWe tool post recently and had the same idea but didn’t have quite enough material, so made a boss with a through hole and just put a bolt in it. Sometimes having a lathe means you over complicate things to make them on the lathe 😂
great project and excellent result. ive been using multifix holders since the 1980s, they are without doubt the best tool holding system in my estimation, however i have learned to NOT fit the location dowel...if you have a crash (in a production shop its easy ..trust me) the toolpost will move and prevent lot of damage. if you ave tha largest mounting stud to hold it down it wont move under normal use ( I remove 1/2" off diameter per cut with a model 'B' holder in 4340 steel) and a nod to a wise man....if you run the spindle speed slower with 4140 -4340 and or use flood coolant it will chip well..it goes stringy when the heat builds up
Pro tip: To align small short parts on the lathe, I grip them lightly a little further out than I want them and then use the tailstock face to push them square and as deep as I want into the chuck before cranking it tight. For larger parts like brake rotors for example, the best bet is to screw some aluminum risers true after bolting them on the chuck face (Joe Pie video: Improve the parallelism of your 3 jaw chuck), but parallels and random stuff touching on my chuck's face never worked acceptably well for me. Maybe easier to do on a dead true brand new chuck but mine isn't (still grips within 15-20microns after boring my jaws true with a CBN insert) PS: If it was my build I would have went for 2 hollow dowels to align the toolpost riser on the cross-slide, I would align the toolpost with a toolholder clamped to be parallel to the crosslide travel, in order to always have the whole thing perfectly straight with the pin in the correct and defined position (the dowels would also prevent misalignment in case of a crash). Also what I do when having to ream something through a guide is I ream the first couple of mm and then remove the guide the ream the rest of the depth. It will even work with drills and if you are careful and setup everything properly, you will get almost the exact same tolerance and fit with the guide/pilot hole you prepared/used.
Some people make a tool for thier tool post with a ball bearing you push against youir work and turn the chuck by hand and the ball bearing will square the part. Its great for getting parts close quick.
That casting looks nice but I wonder if there is really difference compared on steel. I have similar lathe branded as HBM and I made solid toolpost holder from the block of steel. It works really great and I have additional feature which helps with internal turning. I have two attachment points for toolpost, where other one is located on the rightmost edge. I have a clearance to turn relatively big objects without having overhang for my tool. It makes clear difference on rigidity.
According to Buck, Rolm and I imagine others, six jaw chucks don’t have the same gripping power that three jaw chucks do. Removing three of the jaws don’t change that, they lessen it, and can cause problems when the other three jaws are put back as you now have uneven wear on the jaws, to the point that the jaws that aren’t used as much, have less wear on the teeth and won’t grip properly. Just something to think about.
Another job well done. On the electronic leadscrew, can you have a provision to cut thread a number of threads or length of thread then stop the leadscrew allow you to back out the tool then reverse to the start position and begin the next cut.
As always, I really enjoy your videos. I was wondering if you will be sharing a comparison video that shows the relative rigidity between the lathe prior to the gib retrofit and the post multifix toolpost. That migration seems like it is very significant, and makes this little lathe a lot more powerful.
Since you have an electronic lead screw - why don't you make it programmable to stop threading after so many (selectable) revolutions? Or, make an adjustable limit switch where a carnage stop would go.
James, as always, an amazing informative video. As many others have mentioned I too would love to get my hands on one of the tool post castings. Any idea if you plan on selling them? And thanks again for all the VFD/ELS videos! Every time I use my G0602 now I smile and thank you! Awesome upgrade!!
I always tighten the Gibs on my denham junior but this really makes me think I should be doing away with the compound, don't use it much anyhow. Thank you.
Awesome project James! Thanks for the great content on your channel, love the way jou talk the viewer through your train of thought. I have a question regarding this rigid setup, if you don't mind... How would one go about cutting single point threads ons a fixed post like this? Please excuse if it's a silly question, but I don't have much machining experience yet. Massive enthusiast though, learning as much as I can from yours, Adam, Curtis and Quinn's content as possible. Hoping to start my own "mini" engineering shop soon.
Being a rank novice myself, my comments are throwaway, at best, but I believe his electronic leadscrew setup affords significantly more leeway (especially regarding single-point threading) where a more traditional, analog setup simply couldn't. I'm not really sure what you could extrapolate from that, other than "Invest in your own Clough42 electronic leadscrew project today!" But, there you go. 🫣
As usual great video. While you were concerned with stopping in the groove for the thread, I had an idea. Since you perfected the electronic leadscrew, why not program the screw to stop at end of thread. Microswitch, another function and led to indicate in the stop thread Mode. Maybe even building in a autoreverse thread for metric. Just a thought.
Test with 08 radius insert, that's the best way to check rigidity gain. And for indicating the tool holder, better to use the inside of the tool groove, it's much better geometry wise.
Looking good. You won't regret that PeWe tool Multifix 👍 recently mounted a size C on a Cazeneuve HB725. Works super. 👍 Especially the holder for the parting blade is fantastic 👍 highly recommend it Best regards from Denmark
when you already have an electronic lead screw: Why not expand the possibilities of the program , so that it always stop the carriage at the same spot / end of the threading. So you need only very small thread relief. cheers Matthias
If you want to use carbide inserts, use coolant and wiper inserts. You need to be spinning very fast for those inserts to work well, about as fast as your lathe can go. Otherwise just use HSS. Those inserts are designed for high RPM CNC lathes.
Agree, but would like to add that most chipbreakers "like" a cut deeper than the radius to work. Working in toolsteel (Uddeholm Impax Supreme, 42CrMo-4) I usually try for r=0.8, 1.5-2.5 mm cut (3-5mm on diameter), feed 0.20-0.30 mm/rev. Not benchtop numbers, I know. But then I get the cipbreakers to work.
Interested to see how threading goes now, whether the increased rigidity, from the solid toolpost, will offset the increased cutting pressure from cutting on two thread faces vs. cutting on one thread face using the compound, and up to what size thread this is still the case.
One of your next completely unnecessary but totally cool project ought to be an integration between the DRO, VFD and Electronic leadscrew to be able to dynamically adjust the chipload as the diameter decreases. Always sucks to get a good recipe on a stringy material only to have to adjust ever few passes because the SFM keeps changing on you.
@@Nordic_Goon I agree, that opens a lot of doors. However, the feel is just not there. I think force feedback handwheels using direct drive servos instead of just rotary encoders would be super neat.
@@bradley3549 I currently have a wm210v converted to cnc using two of those clear path killers he's using on his ELS, I'm actually making a solid tool post now. Next project will be imolimenting a more "manual control" so I'll be looking into my options. Rotary encoders seems the most straight forward, but I'll definitely have to look more into what would be the best route for me.
@8:39 I was thinking I really want to start doing Job Shop Machinist reacts videos, this would have been a great one. Almost all positive, very much enjoy your channel.
I think it would be fantastic if more people sold items as upgrades or accessories to these very popular lathes. I’m shocked more people with these well stocked machine shops and great skills aren’t capitalizing on the popularity of the 7x, 9x, 10x lathes and bench top mills. Don’t have to mass produce cheap crap either it could be small run, precision High quality upgrades that demand higher price points and they’d sell and likely sell well. The 7x mini lathe market is doing very well by the looks and people really struggle with them it seems. So any QUALITY upgrades would be amazing. Areas I see would be far better cross slide parts and compound parts. The compound on them is extremely poor in both design and build quality. So a solid tool post would sell very well. Anyways great video as usual and thanks for sharing.
Great series, a fine improvement to your machine, and pretty to boot. It will be interesting to hear your thoughts if you end up liking this style better than the Aloris style after using it a while.
Really enjoy your videos buddy. Considering you established a somewhat partnership with the casting company. My suggestion is the paint the raised letters black. Keep up the great work!
Having the castings for sale would be fantastic!
Haha, I'm a new hobby machinist with a junky old used lathe. Just two days ago I was working on a project, facing the end of a piece and the end came out domed! I watched carefully and could see the tool moving the right as I cut! I checked everything, all tight, saddle and cross slide locked, so confused! Then I figured out I never finished tightening the chuck! It was nice to see I'm not the only one who makes that sort of mistake, thanks for leaving that in the video.
For a finish pass, I use aluminum inserts. Slowish speed, good high pressure oil, and go. Even the cheapest inserts do a great job and you can take as little as a thou or two and get a glass finish. People give me hell for it, but 20 alum inserts are the same price as one good insert for steel... so I use one edge per part and toss them.
In 4140 pre-hard??? 😀
@@jimurrata6785 it’ll work for one finish cut on a part that size.
or do can grind the carbide; stefan gotteswinter has a video on it
50 years from now your great-grandkid is going to be really confused as to why those wrench flats don't fit any specific type of wrench :-)
Forever wtf Easter egg hunt
He did a nice job but the line I found funny was he did not feel like looking up wrench flat information in Machinery handbook. I'm thinking 5/8 or 16mm does not take that much research.
Haha Nice
Yeah seemed a bit dodgy. I would have just used any metric wrench size where the flats were approx the right depth on the round stock.
I think that is one of the problems working in imperial, less standardisation.
@@wizrom3046 nope. Just as standardized. Just different.
Gotta love that stitch looking burn scar that toasty-hot spiral chips will leave between thumb and finger!
You strive for such perfection (and you achieve it nearly always) is very inspiring for a rank amateur like myself.
As with others - definitely interested in the casting. What I'm thankful for is it really should be compatible with any lathe, assuming similar swing. The bolt holes can go anywhere needed!
Would love to have one of those castings. Awesome video
I had read on 6 finger chucks have reduced surface pressure so you can tighten more without damage but obviously can cause some issues with the work being forced back into the chuck. Good catch on seeing it happen.
Definitely interested in a casting. I've been meaning to do this with my 9x20 for a few years, apart from the sticker shock of a piece of Dura-Bar big enough to make it from.
22:34 To avoid chatter on a small lathe, especially on large passes, consider locking the cross slide. That will help. Good job with the stud!
Suggestion for stopping before a shoulder when threading:
I'm sure there are a few GPIO pins left on the electronic leadscrew.
I'd bet there is some sort of digital output on the DRO.
Run a feed from the DRO carriage position to the ELS, and some way to tell the ELS to stop at the current position.
Set the carriage where you want it to stop, tell the ELS, and thread. When it moves left to the final position it stops driving the leadscrew.
Or try making a hard stop with a push to break switch imbedded in the face. Set the stop on the bed so the carriage hits it at the end of the thread, the switch breaks a circuit to stop the lead screw and the stop arrests the carriage. It might need some Nylon facing to soften the impact, but the carriage speed is not too great and the lead screw has little inertia.
Little tip: You could wrap around exactly one layer of emery paper over the finished side (the rough side out) and then rechuck it..... This way you prevent the damage of the hardend jaws on the nicely finished first side. :)
Well done! I finished mine a couple months ago and it made a huge difference in rigidity.
Your videos are of a great quality and have a great content, i don't know why you don't have many subscribers
I have enjoyed this series tremendously James.
Having made patterns and cast stuff in aluminum, in my past this is very relatable.
I am pleased that you went the path you did with this, as it was for me a nice journey to follow along with.
When I saw it painted in the beginning of the video I was pleased with what you had done, suits it perfectly.
Anyhow, good job!
Kind regards,
South Africa
I second what Uncle Duncan said. I've really enjoyed the journey from idea to positive to negative to casting to a finished part. I am no longer going to avoid castings in my design process. Thanks for the great series James!! I always enjoy your channel (And I learn soooo much !!!!)
This shop is so clean… It looks like the equipment is being used for the first time.
Turns out if you clean things, they look clean.
@@Clough42 Since *_it would appear_* you clean up your chips after every operation/job, do you save the chips of the more frequently used or expensive stock (properly categorized, of course) for potentially reducing them to ingots, or is this just my packrat tendencies seeping through? 👀
EDIT: This is the train of thought that goes through my mind each time I watch you rough out a large piece of stock to half its original size. LMAO
I'd be happy taking 50 thou depth of cut passes on a benchtop lathe. Your modifications over the years have really increased that machine's functionality. 👍
I would definitely be interested in one of these castings. Great videos keep up the good work.
Sweet, And yes I would be interested,
I spent most of Feb & March studying insert & tool holder specs, coding, coatings & geometries as research for purchasing a bunch of tooling for my newly acquired mill & supplementing my meager turning tooling.
An upshot of cramming all this info into my brain, was realizing how many different kinds of 'chip breakers' exist.
The next time I turned something I was in a similar sitch as you were, long azz strings. No chatter or other issues, but strings. I've had strings get caught, then fling swarf into my face; twice strings have thrown sliders w/ chunks curving right around (wrap around type) safety glasses into my eyeball.
I started pay very close attention to how the cut material was hitting, (missing) the minute chip breaker features.
I changed the angle of attack of the insert by rotating the tool post. To my surprise, the strings stopped & chips broke off.
I had a difficult time reproducing the same angle after changing tooling for a feature.
I've since been experimenting w/ angle of attack. The jury is still out, but I've had more success w/ this than DoC or SFM changes.
Food for thought; I know you like to experiment, & aren't afraid to color outside the lines.
I saw someone mention sharpening inserts, (saved Stephen's vid on it, but haven't got to it). I've been sharpening/conturing inserts since I first got some & didn't know you shouldn't (why?).
I've had some very good success putting small radii & razor sharp edges on inserts when out of the box is making me crazy.
Wear a good mask & work over an easily cleaned surface... cadmium in the inserts are bad juju.
GeoD
It never ceases to amaze me how some people just have to find something negative in a video. If they can't just enjoy the talent and workmanship of the person making the video PLEASE don't watch or at least don't comment.... Thanks for Sharing ... Stay Safe and Well....
Constructive criticism is fine, emphasis on the constructive. I respectfully disagree with "compliment or be silent".
Machining 4140 on a small lathe is tough. Obviously it depends on the insert too, but I have similar experience to yours - I got a good chip only when pushing it a bit harder. For me it was at least 0.22-0.25mm per revolution, so more like 10 thou. I have lathes big enough to handle it, but on a smaller lathe, yeah, pretty tough.
Huge salute to you and all machinist on youtube, when i have a “bad day” in the shop or at leaset something that isint going my way i get stressed, hot and angry. The last thing i would want any1 to do was to record and upload it hahah. But it is of course always learning. Thanks for the great video.
Great addition to the lathe your collaboration with Clark on the Riser was a good choice
Yeah. I would definetly buy one of those castings.
the PWT multifix is really great, the best you can buy thnxs
Personal opinion i would like to "glue" the locating pin with high strenght locktite only on the bottom.
Blue/medium locktite on the lower part of the center screw you made to prevent it loosening without you noticing and it will still be easy to remove if needed without heating the whole part
Having rebuilt a number of machines, I would highly recommend clearcoating the new paint. You’ll find that tge rattle can paints are prone to chipping, and will easily stain with cutting oils and cast iron dust. If you use a clear coat formulated for alloy rims, you’ll find it more durable, not as “chippy”, and more resistant to chemicals. Easily touched up, and has a nicer gloss ( in my opinion 🤡)
Great info. Thank you.
That particular one he used is super cool though. I painted my Wilton wise with it and 5 years later it still looks brand new after daily beating.
Project Farm tested several rattle can metal paints. There were a couple that are very damage resistant, but preparation of the surface is a big part too.
I've always admired your intelligence...right up to the point you grabbed the chip with your bare hand.
You are killing my OCD!
Despite the chip problem that 4140 machines to a lovely surface finish. Thanks for sharing what items were used in the video. I can't tell you how much I appreciate that. The only other TH-camr I know that does that is Louis Rossmann.
Yeah, the 4140 sure is pretty.
I was giggling when you drilled the entire hole at the bottom of the deep hole in the toolpost device. Surely once you had dialled in the mill XY to match the first hole you could have removed the toolpost device and the mill would have still drilled in the same place...
Then spat my drink out when you REAMED it at the bottom of the deep hole too!
LOL you had already drilled the hole in the workpiece, where did you think the reamer was going to go?
I know you're a smart guy, which probably makes the giggle moments even funnier. 😎
First I would not call that a deep hole it is not uncommon to drill 1/4 inch holes over 6 inches deep. Second if you are drilling a dowel hole in two pieces that have control surface like the tight fit stud you would have to drill then bore location 2% under reamer size then core a control ring about .0005 under reamer .050 deep then ream other wise you can have problems drills will not give you a hole right on location spot drills will not be right on location and reamers will push to a side slightly. The way he did this is common practice in tool shops.
@@terryallemann2654 ... apart from he drilled with a drill bit that was SMALLER than the hole in the toolpost device. So having the device present did not contribute any guide effect. It was all down to the dial-in based on the device. Then the device did not need to be there lol.
@@wizrom3046 The guide hole was to hold the reamer on location I would not care if hole was a couple off one way or the other.
@@terryallemann2654 ... yeah there are 2 ways to do the job.
1. You can use the dial on the guide hole, set the mill XY, and then use a stiff centre drill to establish the pilot hole in the workpiece in the correct XY position. In that case the guide hole is no longer needed and should be removed.
2. You mechanically use the guide hole, with a transfer device like a transfer punch or drill bit of the exact same size. Hopefully that will establish the pilot hole in the correct location but causes 2 problems; that drill bit is too big to ream later, or something might go wrong with the transfer punch mark when you drill with a smaller pilot drill.
What he did in the video was dial in the mill XY to the guide hole (good) but then started the holes in the workpiece with no centre drill, no punch, and with a long flexible drill bit. That obviously can cause XY error because fhe pilot drill is smaller than the guide hole in the toolpost..
Then, he reamed using the guide hole. That is a bad idea because the greatest force on the reamer is the new pilot hole which is a few thou smaller than the reamer, and it will centre the reamer on the pilot hole. That centering force of fhe pilot hole is much greater than the centering force of the larger guide hole which is a slide fit around the reamer. So if there was xy error it does not fix it, the reamer follows the pilot (XY error) hole, and chews out the side wall of the guide hole destroying the guide toolpost...
In my opinion, the best way to do this job was to dial in the XY, then remove the guide hole toolpost, then use a short stiff centre drill and then a normal pilot drill and then ream. All 3 of those ops would have been far better and easier without the superfluous and deep guide hole getting in the way.
@@wizrom3046 With the little machine experience I have I still stand that the way clough42 and the tool holder manufactured recommended is the better way to insure every thing lines up.
Great job James! The whole series was very educational.
Very good. I have sent this to a couple of friends. {I've never done that before!) lol.
Very nice. I would be interested in a casting. I have the same multifix currently mounted to my compound. I need to remake my tool post stud so this video is perfect for me.
love the pro tip "if it's smoking and gold color it too hot to grab" great project. hammered finish paint help hide bad welds too. hahum, not that i ever had to hide welds, heard from a friend. thanks for sharing!
We used the tri mics for production work up to 7” diameters for 25 years at work. They are awesome.
Excellent improvement on the original fitment.
Thanks for sharing.
Excellent part. I mounted my PeWe tool post recently and had the same idea but didn’t have quite enough material, so made a boss with a through hole and just put a bolt in it. Sometimes having a lathe means you over complicate things to make them on the lathe 😂
Nothing more satisfying than a good slip fit.
Yes would love to get a casting. Very nice tool post.
great project and excellent result. ive been using multifix holders since the 1980s, they are without doubt the best tool holding system in my estimation, however i have learned to
NOT fit the location dowel...if you have a crash (in a production shop its easy ..trust me) the toolpost will move and prevent lot of damage. if you ave tha largest mounting stud to hold it down it wont move under normal use ( I remove 1/2" off diameter per cut with a model 'B' holder in 4340 steel) and a nod to a wise man....if you run the spindle speed slower with 4140 -4340 and or use flood coolant it will chip well..it goes stringy when the heat builds up
Pro tip: To align small short parts on the lathe, I grip them lightly a little further out than I want them and then use the tailstock face to push them square and as deep as I want into the chuck before cranking it tight. For larger parts like brake rotors for example, the best bet is to screw some aluminum risers true after bolting them on the chuck face (Joe Pie video: Improve the parallelism of your 3 jaw chuck), but parallels and random stuff touching on my chuck's face never worked acceptably well for me. Maybe easier to do on a dead true brand new chuck but mine isn't (still grips within 15-20microns after boring my jaws true with a CBN insert)
PS: If it was my build I would have went for 2 hollow dowels to align the toolpost riser on the cross-slide, I would align the toolpost with a toolholder clamped to be parallel to the crosslide travel, in order to always have the whole thing perfectly straight with the pin in the correct and defined position (the dowels would also prevent misalignment in case of a crash). Also what I do when having to ream something through a guide is I ream the first couple of mm and then remove the guide the ream the rest of the depth. It will even work with drills and if you are careful and setup everything properly, you will get almost the exact same tolerance and fit with the guide/pilot hole you prepared/used.
Some people make a tool for thier tool post with a ball bearing you push against youir work and turn the chuck by hand and the ball bearing will square the part. Its great for getting parts close quick.
That is certainly a nice tool post. Very well done and interesting as well. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
That casting looks nice but I wonder if there is really difference compared on steel. I have similar lathe branded as HBM and I made solid toolpost holder from the block of steel. It works really great and I have additional feature which helps with internal turning. I have two attachment points for toolpost, where other one is located on the rightmost edge. I have a clearance to turn relatively big objects without having overhang for my tool. It makes clear difference on rigidity.
Very beautiful, I'm jealous😊
I like how you put the fusion drawing on the lathe shield for reference. I’m stealing that idea! Great as always!!
Magnets are awesome for that.
I wish I didn’t have so many BXA Tool holders. That post would be nice on my small lathe for what I do. Great work as always.
According to Buck, Rolm and I imagine others, six jaw chucks don’t have the same gripping power that three jaw chucks do. Removing three of the jaws don’t change that, they lessen it, and can cause problems when the other three jaws are put back as you now have uneven wear on the jaws, to the point that the jaws that aren’t used as much, have less wear on the teeth and won’t grip properly. Just something to think about.
New to the Channel, James. Lovin’ it. Thanks.
Another job well done.
On the electronic leadscrew, can you have a provision to cut thread a number of threads or length of thread then stop the leadscrew allow you to back out the tool then reverse to the start position and begin the next cut.
a real treat to watch! Thank you so much.
As always, I really enjoy your videos. I was wondering if you will be sharing a comparison video that shows the relative rigidity between the lathe prior to the gib retrofit and the post multifix toolpost. That migration seems like it is very significant, and makes this little lathe a lot more powerful.
Excellent work and very informative and entertaining presentation. Paul, Scot.
Most excellent.
Regarding flats, one of my instructors always uses an adjustable wrench because he thinks it provides a better and less damaging grip.
I made an adjustable stop that fits the taper in the spindle of my lathe that I use when I feel the part may slide back during machining.
I would be interested in one of the castings!
200 off at one cut is GRRREEATTTT. I'm lucky to get 20 to 30 on my WW2 10"
Add another one interesting in one of these castings.
Would love to have one of these castings as well for my machine!
Definitely want one of those castings. I have the same lathe.
Since you have an electronic lead screw - why don't you make it programmable to stop threading after so many (selectable) revolutions? Or, make an adjustable limit switch where a carnage stop would go.
James, as always, an amazing informative video. As many others have mentioned I too would love to get my hands on one of the tool post castings. Any idea if you plan on selling them? And thanks again for all the VFD/ELS videos! Every time I use my G0602 now I smile and thank you! Awesome upgrade!!
I always tighten the Gibs on my denham junior but this really makes me think I should be doing away with the compound, don't use it much anyhow.
Thank you.
Nice job James.
What a beutiful job! Great machining.
Awesome project James! Thanks for the great content on your channel, love the way jou talk the viewer through your train of thought. I have a question regarding this rigid setup, if you don't mind... How would one go about cutting single point threads ons a fixed post like this? Please excuse if it's a silly question, but I don't have much machining experience yet. Massive enthusiast though, learning as much as I can from yours, Adam, Curtis and Quinn's content as possible. Hoping to start my own "mini" engineering shop soon.
Being a rank novice myself, my comments are throwaway, at best, but I believe his electronic leadscrew setup affords significantly more leeway (especially regarding single-point threading) where a more traditional, analog setup simply couldn't.
I'm not really sure what you could extrapolate from that, other than "Invest in your own Clough42 electronic leadscrew project today!"
But, there you go. 🫣
Nice result ,painting was a good decision.
As usual great video. While you were concerned with stopping in the groove for the thread, I had an idea. Since you perfected the electronic leadscrew, why not program the screw to stop at end of thread. Microswitch, another function and led to indicate in the stop thread Mode.
Maybe even building in a autoreverse thread for metric. Just a thought.
This is my favorite channel. Another great video.
Enjoyed…(as expected)…great video production/discussion/demonstration/build….nice upgrade to the lathe
Im in England and I heard Abom cry out when you saiddepth now at 2 tenths of an inch.
Test with 08 radius insert, that's the best way to check rigidity gain.
And for indicating the tool holder, better to use the inside of the tool groove, it's much better geometry wise.
I'm being Interested in casting For my 12 by 36 jet Thanks another great video
Great job, especially with the mixed US and metric units, my head was spinning :)
Looking good. You won't regret that PeWe tool Multifix 👍 recently mounted a size C on a Cazeneuve HB725. Works super. 👍 Especially the holder for the parting blade is fantastic 👍 highly recommend it
Best regards from Denmark
when you already have an electronic lead screw: Why not expand the possibilities of the program , so that it always stop the carriage at the same spot / end of the threading. So you need only very small thread relief.
cheers
Matthias
Thanks James now I have get more tools……..darn it.
Great plan great execution
If you want to use carbide inserts, use coolant and wiper inserts. You need to be spinning very fast for those inserts to work well, about as fast as your lathe can go. Otherwise just use HSS. Those inserts are designed for high RPM CNC lathes.
Agree, but would like to add that most chipbreakers "like" a cut deeper than the radius to work. Working in toolsteel (Uddeholm Impax Supreme, 42CrMo-4) I usually try for r=0.8, 1.5-2.5 mm cut (3-5mm on diameter), feed 0.20-0.30 mm/rev.
Not benchtop numbers, I know. But then I get the cipbreakers to work.
Nice job
Score! That's pretty impressive performance.
I would be interested in a casting.
I’ve seen many channels like yours however no one offers the products you design, your some one I will actually consider being a patrion .
Very nice James. Good job.
Interested to see how threading goes now, whether the increased rigidity, from the solid toolpost, will offset the increased cutting pressure from cutting on two thread faces vs. cutting on one thread face using the compound, and up to what size thread this is still the case.
I recently cut a whole batch of 10 TPI parts in EN1a steel with a solid toolpost on an Emco V8 with no problem whatsoever.
One of your next completely unnecessary but totally cool project ought to be an integration between the DRO, VFD and Electronic leadscrew to be able to dynamically adjust the chipload as the diameter decreases. Always sucks to get a good recipe on a stringy material only to have to adjust ever few passes because the SFM keeps changing on you.
At some point you might as well convert completely to CNC while maintaining manual controls using rotary encoders instead of the the hand wheels hah.
@@Nordic_Goon I agree, that opens a lot of doors. However, the feel is just not there. I think force feedback handwheels using direct drive servos instead of just rotary encoders would be super neat.
@@bradley3549 I currently have a wm210v converted to cnc using two of those clear path killers he's using on his ELS, I'm actually making a solid tool post now. Next project will be imolimenting a more "manual control" so I'll be looking into my options. Rotary encoders seems the most straight forward, but I'll definitely have to look more into what would be the best route for me.
@8:39 I was thinking I really want to start doing Job Shop Machinist reacts videos, this would have been a great one. Almost all positive, very much enjoy your channel.
Nice job .CLEAN!!!!!
Sweet upgrade.
Great job James. Very nice setup
I think it would be fantastic if more people sold items as upgrades or accessories to these very popular lathes. I’m shocked more people with these well stocked machine shops and great skills aren’t capitalizing on the popularity of the 7x, 9x, 10x lathes and bench top mills. Don’t have to mass produce cheap crap either it could be small run, precision High quality upgrades that demand higher price points and they’d sell and likely sell well. The 7x mini lathe market is doing very well by the looks and people really struggle with them it seems. So any QUALITY upgrades would be amazing. Areas I see would be far better cross slide parts and compound parts. The compound on them is extremely poor in both design and build quality. So a solid tool post would sell very well. Anyways great video as usual and thanks for sharing.
Great series, a fine improvement to your machine, and pretty to boot. It will be interesting to hear your thoughts if you end up liking this style better than the Aloris style after using it a while.
Tip: next time you could put a piece of paper between your hard jaws and the workpiece, this way you have more grip and you don't damage your part.
Exelente herramienta muy buena yo ví cuando ví el modelo de plástico y esto es el final 🙏 perfecto Amigo
Turned out nice James! Should be a game changer upgrade !
Thanks for sharing 👍
Really enjoy your videos buddy. Considering you established a somewhat partnership with the casting company. My suggestion is the paint the raised letters black. Keep up the great work!