Don't be afraid to make the video a little longer for more explanation and testing. I can't speak for others, but I personally would have loved the satisfying payoff of seeing DRO numbers matching up with dial indicators after all the work you put into the mounting.
Thanks for the feedback. 👍And yeah it's always a bit of a tough decision in editing. There are a LOT of hours of project and filming for any given video, and I am always trying to walk that line between getting the point across, making it entertaining, and making sure that it isn't a chore for folks to watch. Thanks for watching btw :)
@@hersch_tool No worries man, loving the channel, very much in the vein of some of my other faves (this old tony, inheritance machining, and artisan makes) keep it up and you'll find your flow. What you're making right now is hella good considering how small the channel is. I can't wait to see how you grow. (:
@@radiantthought Thanks very much, I really appreciate the encouragement. 👍💪👍 I'm having a blast and am really loving the interactions and conversations I get to have with all the other "like minded" folks out there on the internet. I'll keep cracking away, and am also super excited to see where it all goes!
I enjoyed watching your approach to this installation. A few years ago I went through a similar process on a Grizzly G0709 (14 x 40?). Based upon my experience and a few years of use I offer this suggestion for what it’s worth - at some point you may want to engineer a different z-scale mounting to avoid the use of the “O” rings. A solid mount that adjusts for draft and irregularities in the casting isn’t that hard and may serve you better long-term. You and I used about the same solution for the sensor mount and entire x-axis setup. Thanks for posting.
Thanks very much, I appreciate you taking the time to watch. You might end up being right. I was trying to be clever and save myself a bit of work, but I plan on keeping an eye on it to see if it moves on me. If it starts moving around then I'll definitely do something rigid and adjustable. I'll make sure to do an update video if that happens. Thanks for the feedback, and thanks again for watching!
Funnily enough I did the exact same thing with my little Murad 8x24 about a week ago - such a good upgrade. Only thing that tripped me up for a while was getting it to read properly in Diameter mode (for anyone googling, don't worry about setting an axis under R and D in parameters per the book as it doesn't work - just set the DRO as Lathe_2 and the 1/2 button should toggle between Radius/Diameter)
Yep, it's very unintuitive and the "manual" is no help at all... I really debated with myself about whether I should include a segment in the vid going over how to configure and use the unit, but it would made such a long video I decided to stick to the topic at hand, the install. Thanks for watching btw :)
Nice video and thanks for sharing your detailed work. As a toolmaker living in the United States, it hurts my heart to see so many people buying imported tools. I am doing a lathe DRO installation myself and purchased my system out of Fort Wayne, Indiana. I was able to speak to the company owner by phone pre purchase to order the glass scales, DRO head, and mounting kits. I also purchased some Accu-Rite scale repair parts for my milling machine. Those mill parts will ship in the same box as my DRO. It will be nice having the support of a company close to me, so I can call or drive to their shop if I ever need anything.
thanks very much, and yeah i hear you. it breaks my heart too when i think about what's been done to out once proud and mighty manufacturing sector. i'm less than 2 hours from the corpse of bethlehem steel and it hurts to see stuff like that. but it's driven the prices of the few remaining US made options for most things out of the reach of folks in their garage. i looked into DRO Pros for my DROs and they wanted almost 4 times the price for the same exact units, made in china still, just imported and sold by them. my dream is make quality tools for hobbyists and sell them at reasonable prices. who knows if that'll ever happen, but it's what i dream about. thanks for watching btw.
Yep, it really is a substantial upgrade. I think in general, you "can" absolutely get along on a lathe without a DRO. But, adding one is just such a huge quality of life improvement, production/speed boost, and makes getting the "most" out of the machine much easier and more practical, especially when it comes to pushing the boundaries of the machine's accuracy. I'm definitely happy that I did it. Thanks for watching btw!
Enjoyed your video as I have the exact same lathe except with an Enco brand. I just ordered one of those EBay DRO’s. I hope it works as well as yours. I’ll keep you posted!👍
yeah just check it as soon as you get it. i've gotten some DOA parts before but if you message them they'll send a replacement right out. good luck and lemme know how it works out!
Nice upgrade...Gave me the courage and direction to do the same to my lathe. Finally, I can pull the DRO out of the workshop cabinet and start that project. Thanks!
Great video. I have been wanting to add a three axis DRO to my Wells-Index 645 mill for awhile. I guess I need to just bite the bullet and get one ordered lol. It would make life so much easier.
Thanks very much! And yep, sometimes you just have to dive in and get started. Before you know it, you'll be standing back admiring your work. And adding a DRO to a mill really is a HUGE quality of life improvement. It's a literal "game changer" lol. Thanks for watching btw!
I have the exact same cross slide on my Grizzly lathe. I installed my X cross slide scale exactly the same. The bigger problem is that it covers up that small grub screw on the right side which is a lock. I plan on remedying this my pulling the cross slide and machining one on the left side with a tapered brass plug to interact with the dovetail.
Yeah it is kind of a bummer that it covers the lock screw. But I thought about it and realized that I don't ever really lock my cross slide so I just went with it. A tapered plug is an excellent idea for an alternative lock though. 👍👍
I was disappointed that you did not install the covers to protect from swarf. I am also wondering if swarf gets under the cross slide scale as the clearance seems pretty tight? Some have recommended sealant to keep cutting oil from working down into the reader? Between the scale and the cross slide in particular but also the bed and the longitudinal scale. In my install which I am getting ready for I will also have my taper attachment to avoid when mounting and that necessitates a new custom backsplash. So I am trying to foresee any problems before I drill any holes. For me install videos can't be too long or detailed as I like to see all the optional approaches others have taken with their mounting. Always seems whether it be manuals or videos on many projects that it is the details that matter and are left out. Nothing more frustrating when faced with a roadblock and the manual just says "remove and replace" while there seems no way to practically do that. I will be a bit more confident when I get the first one done to my satisfaction as I have two others to also install. Thanks for the video.
Honestly, IMHO that's all completely unnecessary overkill. Gravity takes care of fluids and swarf really. If you have room, sure install the guards. But the guard would have sat proud of the cross slide and it's just not worth it. For the Y scale, installing the guard would have required a bunch of extra clearance for reader bracket, which again just wasn't worth it IMO. Don't overthink it, it's really pretty easy. The most important thing to get right is the alignment which in itself isn't even a super tight tolerance requirement.
Alright another Hersch video! If you're looking for video ideas, may I recommend a How-To video on a DRO on the lathe and the different functions with examples?
Hey, I have another question related to this video, as we have the same lathe. The DRO on the cross slide covers the locking screw for the cross slide. I've seen some folks make a locking mechanism for the other side, where the steady rest mounts. What did you do, or do you not use the lock on the cross slide lock? Thanks again for helping a beginner :)
I just sacrificed the cross slide lock, just try to think of how many times you've seen someone who knows what they're doing ever use one. I never lock the cross slide, can't think of many reasons to ever really need to do so either. Definitely not worth rigging up something on the other side imho. And if you do that, you're locking directly against the dovetail which could easily lead to damage to the dovetail, which definitely isn't worth having a lock that you're never gonna use anyway lol. Even if you use a brass set screw or something, you're gonna end up with brass slurry just slowly eating away at your dovetails. Cover it, forget about it. 👍
@@hersch_tool First of all, thanks for the response. I thought you might say you don't need the lock, as I have recognized the lack of use in what I've seen. It "seems" to make a difference in the accuracy of my cuts, but as the lead screw and nut for the cross slide are new, there is virtually no backlash, and it should not move, especially on light cuts. I have leveled, squared, and aligned the lathe several times. I can get it to 2 ten thousands over six inches, but it doesn't stay there. I can come back at a later time, having not moved anything, and I get a different result. I think I need to look elsewhere for my inconsistency. Thanks again, Chris.
@@chrismac2264 Sounds like you're looking for grinding accuracy out of a lathe. Just find fun projects and enjoy yourself, keep practicing, and don't sweat tenths. A change in temperature can produce a deviation larger than what you're talking about. This is a trap that I see a lot of beginners fall into. Measuring obsessively, and spending a lot of time adjusting the machine chasing measurements before having a really good foundation and understanding of the fundamentals. There are so many variables to consider in your 6" example, don't get stressed about it. Just relax, find something cool to make, and make it. Then do it again, accuracy will come with time and experience.
@@chrismac2264 Also, if locking your cross slide is affecting your cuts then your gib might need some adjusting. It should be tightened just to point before it starts to bind. You want to feel a little bit of drag in the hand wheel, not a lot, but some.
Best DRO video to date. What’s your thought on covering the cross slide gib lock screw? I’ve got a similar lathe and I can’t decide on Y axis scale location for this reason.
Haha, 😂 I doubt that! But I do appreciate the compliment VERY much. Thank you! And yeah, it's kind of a bummer, but in the end I couldn't see a better solution. And the more I thought about it, I realized that I never really lock my cross slide anyway, like ever. So I just made sure that it was backed out enough to allow for gib adjustment and sent it. And, if for some reason you ever do really want to lock down your cross slide, you can just do it by running the gib in tight, then back it when you're done without much extra effort. Thanks again for the kind compliment, and thank you for watching!
@@hersch_tool it really is, no one else is as detailed and concise. Also filming the back of the lathe was very helpful as well, you can actually see what is being done whilst most other machines are up against a wall. Anyway, I see your point. I can’t think of a good solution either. If I mount mine on the front of the carriage I lose the mount for the following steady. Screwed either way. I’ll likely end up doing as you have. Keep up the good content.
Mount the scale on pads or shims, etc., away from the side of the cross slide enough so you can get a wrench in there to turn the locking screw with a small wrench. Switch out the set screw for a hex head for this reason. I almost covered up the lock screw too but now I'm glad I didn't.
@@1Splat that’s a very good workaround. The only thing I don’t like about that is it will push the tailstock even further away from the spindle than it already is with the scale mounted there. Ultimately I don’t have a choice but it would be nice to get all the tailstock reach possible in a perfect world.
Nice video, I think your production quality is getting better and better. I'm a hobbyist too and I'm learning a lot watching your videos. I have the same Lathe (MSC 9517350) made in 1996 I think. I bought it used from a dealer in the north east a couple of months ago, and then had to do some repairs from damage in shipping. Otherwise, it's a great machine, and while mine doesn't look as good as yours, it's in good shape and has a lot of life left in it. I noticed you have the taper attachment (it looks like a nice piece). I'm looking for a DRO for it now but having a hard time finding the cross slide size I want. I can't find the one you got on e-bay. Do you have a model number for it? Thanks again.
Thanks very much, I've been working very hard at it. Making videos is all very new to me so there's a lot that I still have to learn, but it's getting a little bit easier every day. The taper attachment is nice to have, but it's definitely bare bones as far as taper attachments go. It gets the job done though. And I'm not sure about the model number of the DRO, but the scales are all the same. In fact, the scale that I used for the cross slide was a scale that I'd had for a while sitting in the shop and I just bought a scale for the bed and the "head" unit and cobbled it all together. Like I said, all of the glass scales sold on eBay with the kits are exactly the same save for whether you choose the 5um or 1um resolution. I do believe that I used a 14" scale for the cross slide, which was just about exactly the right size, it was almost a little too small and I had to mount the reader further to one side just so that I could get the full travel from the cross slide. Most of the kits from eBay should allow you to choose what size scales you want. I would definitely recommend looking for a seller that says "US stock" though, you'll get it much faster. I'll check if I can find any other identifying info and let you know though.
i'd say best practice is to install some. but definitely not necessary if you use some common sense and are careful. thanks very much for watching btw. 🙂
Don't be afraid to make the video a little longer for more explanation and testing. I can't speak for others, but I personally would have loved the satisfying payoff of seeing DRO numbers matching up with dial indicators after all the work you put into the mounting.
Thanks for the feedback. 👍And yeah it's always a bit of a tough decision in editing. There are a LOT of hours of project and filming for any given video, and I am always trying to walk that line between getting the point across, making it entertaining, and making sure that it isn't a chore for folks to watch. Thanks for watching btw :)
@@hersch_tool No worries man, loving the channel, very much in the vein of some of my other faves (this old tony, inheritance machining, and artisan makes) keep it up and you'll find your flow. What you're making right now is hella good considering how small the channel is. I can't wait to see how you grow. (:
@@radiantthought Thanks very much, I really appreciate the encouragement. 👍💪👍 I'm having a blast and am really loving the interactions and conversations I get to have with all the other "like minded" folks out there on the internet. I'll keep cracking away, and am also super excited to see where it all goes!
I enjoyed watching your approach to this installation. A few years ago I went through a similar process on a Grizzly G0709 (14 x 40?). Based upon my experience and a few years of use I offer this suggestion for what it’s worth - at some point you may want to engineer a different z-scale mounting to avoid the use of the “O” rings. A solid mount that adjusts for draft and irregularities in the casting isn’t that hard and may serve you better long-term. You and I used about the same solution for the sensor mount and entire x-axis setup. Thanks for posting.
Thanks very much, I appreciate you taking the time to watch. You might end up being right. I was trying to be clever and save myself a bit of work, but I plan on keeping an eye on it to see if it moves on me. If it starts moving around then I'll definitely do something rigid and adjustable. I'll make sure to do an update video if that happens. Thanks for the feedback, and thanks again for watching!
Funnily enough I did the exact same thing with my little Murad 8x24 about a week ago - such a good upgrade.
Only thing that tripped me up for a while was getting it to read properly in Diameter mode (for anyone googling, don't worry about setting an axis under R and D in parameters per the book as it doesn't work - just set the DRO as Lathe_2 and the 1/2 button should toggle between Radius/Diameter)
Yep, it's very unintuitive and the "manual" is no help at all... I really debated with myself about whether I should include a segment in the vid going over how to configure and use the unit, but it would made such a long video I decided to stick to the topic at hand, the install. Thanks for watching btw :)
Nice video and thanks for sharing your detailed work. As a toolmaker living in the United States, it hurts my heart to see so many people buying imported tools. I am doing a lathe DRO installation myself and purchased my system out of Fort Wayne, Indiana. I was able to speak to the company owner by phone pre purchase to order the glass scales, DRO head, and mounting kits. I also purchased some Accu-Rite scale repair parts for my milling machine. Those mill parts will ship in the same box as my DRO. It will be nice having the support of a company close to me, so I can call or drive to their shop if I ever need anything.
thanks very much, and yeah i hear you. it breaks my heart too when i think about what's been done to out once proud and mighty manufacturing sector. i'm less than 2 hours from the corpse of bethlehem steel and it hurts to see stuff like that. but it's driven the prices of the few remaining US made options for most things out of the reach of folks in their garage. i looked into DRO Pros for my DROs and they wanted almost 4 times the price for the same exact units, made in china still, just imported and sold by them. my dream is make quality tools for hobbyists and sell them at reasonable prices. who knows if that'll ever happen, but it's what i dream about. thanks for watching btw.
Man, you'd think with as simple as lathes are, that DROs wouldn't really change much, but it's such a massive upgrade.
Yep, it really is a substantial upgrade. I think in general, you "can" absolutely get along on a lathe without a DRO. But, adding one is just such a huge quality of life improvement, production/speed boost, and makes getting the "most" out of the machine much easier and more practical, especially when it comes to pushing the boundaries of the machine's accuracy. I'm definitely happy that I did it. Thanks for watching btw!
Enjoyed your video as I have the exact same lathe except with an Enco brand. I just ordered one of those EBay DRO’s. I hope it works as well as yours. I’ll keep you posted!👍
yeah just check it as soon as you get it. i've gotten some DOA parts before but if you message them they'll send a replacement right out. good luck and lemme know how it works out!
Hello, and thank`s for this good video. I notice your center punch in the video, do you now where I can get one of those?
The punches are made by Rennsteig, it's a German tool company. They are called "Zentrierkörner". Thanks for watching btw :)
Nice upgrade...Gave me the courage and direction to do the same to my lathe. Finally, I can pull the DRO out of the workshop cabinet and start that project. Thanks!
Heck yeah! It can be a little daunting to get started, but you'll be glad when it's all finished. Thanks very much for watching btw!
Good workmanship and very fine explanation. Respect !
thanks very much!
Nice DRO, good job on the installation.
This is a nice upgrade for your lathe.
Thanks for sharing.
Have a great day.
Thanks very much
Absolutely perfect, this video was a big help to me. thank you very very much.
@@user-zv1uf7pr7q I’m glad it was helpful, thank you for watching!
Nice movie! Thanks👍
Thanks very much for watching!
Nice work 👍
Thank you!
Awesome video as always, if I may ask, what are the make/model of the punches you use at 11:26? They seem awesome! Thank you.
Thanks very much! And the punches are made by Rennsteig, it's a German tool company. They are called "Zentrierkörner". Thanks for watching btw :)
Great video. I have been wanting to add a three axis DRO to my Wells-Index 645 mill for awhile. I guess I need to just bite the bullet and get one ordered lol. It would make life so much easier.
Thanks very much! And yep, sometimes you just have to dive in and get started. Before you know it, you'll be standing back admiring your work. And adding a DRO to a mill really is a HUGE quality of life improvement. It's a literal "game changer" lol. Thanks for watching btw!
another awesome video my friend!
Thanks much brother!
I have the exact same cross slide on my Grizzly lathe. I installed my X cross slide scale exactly the same. The bigger problem is that it covers up that small grub screw on the right side which is a lock. I plan on remedying this my pulling the cross slide and machining one on the left side with a tapered brass plug to interact with the dovetail.
Yeah it is kind of a bummer that it covers the lock screw. But I thought about it and realized that I don't ever really lock my cross slide so I just went with it. A tapered plug is an excellent idea for an alternative lock though. 👍👍
I was disappointed that you did not install the covers to protect from swarf. I am also wondering if swarf gets under the cross slide scale as the clearance seems pretty tight? Some have recommended sealant to keep cutting oil from working down into the reader? Between the scale and the cross slide in particular but also the bed and the longitudinal scale. In my install which I am getting ready for I will also have my taper attachment to avoid when mounting and that necessitates a new custom backsplash. So I am trying to foresee any problems before I drill any holes. For me install videos can't be too long or detailed as I like to see all the optional approaches others have taken with their mounting. Always seems whether it be manuals or videos on many projects that it is the details that matter and are left out. Nothing more frustrating when faced with a roadblock and the manual just says "remove and replace" while there seems no way to practically do that. I will be a bit more confident when I get the first one done to my satisfaction as I have two others to also install. Thanks for the video.
Honestly, IMHO that's all completely unnecessary overkill. Gravity takes care of fluids and swarf really. If you have room, sure install the guards. But the guard would have sat proud of the cross slide and it's just not worth it. For the Y scale, installing the guard would have required a bunch of extra clearance for reader bracket, which again just wasn't worth it IMO. Don't overthink it, it's really pretty easy. The most important thing to get right is the alignment which in itself isn't even a super tight tolerance requirement.
Nice!
Thanks!
Who makes the center punch at 11:25? Thank you..
It's made in Germany, but I can't remember the name of the company off hand. I'll have to check and get back to you.
@@hersch_tool I'm in search of a quality centering punch. Thank you..
@@MrPancake0825 No probs, I'll let you know in a little bit.
Look like "Zentrierkörner" like Rennsteig is offering them
@@simonpirschel3379 Yes! I just checked and that's exactly right. It is "Zentrierkörner" made by Rennsteig. Very nice tools.
Hi! Do me favor, what center punch you using? Im so impressed! Nice tool , will be happy to keep this one somewhere!! Thanks!!
@@davidkal9083 they are rennsteig adjustable transfer punches. Made in Germany
Nice vid. Are you going to install some sort of bumper to protect the scale from contacting the tailstock?
Thanks very much. And there isn't really much room, I'll just have to be careful 😉
Alright another Hersch video! If you're looking for video ideas, may I recommend a How-To video on a DRO on the lathe and the different functions with examples?
That's a great idea! I'll put it on the list, thanks very much!
Hey, I have another question related to this video, as we have the same lathe. The DRO on the cross slide covers the locking screw for the cross slide. I've seen some folks make a locking mechanism for the other side, where the steady rest mounts. What did you do, or do you not use the lock on the cross slide lock? Thanks again for helping a beginner :)
I just sacrificed the cross slide lock, just try to think of how many times you've seen someone who knows what they're doing ever use one. I never lock the cross slide, can't think of many reasons to ever really need to do so either. Definitely not worth rigging up something on the other side imho. And if you do that, you're locking directly against the dovetail which could easily lead to damage to the dovetail, which definitely isn't worth having a lock that you're never gonna use anyway lol. Even if you use a brass set screw or something, you're gonna end up with brass slurry just slowly eating away at your dovetails. Cover it, forget about it. 👍
@@hersch_tool First of all, thanks for the response. I thought you might say you don't need the lock, as I have recognized the lack of use in what I've seen. It "seems" to make a difference in the accuracy of my cuts, but as the lead screw and nut for the cross slide are new, there is virtually no backlash, and it should not move, especially on light cuts. I have leveled, squared, and aligned the lathe several times. I can get it to 2 ten thousands over six inches, but it doesn't stay there. I can come back at a later time, having not moved anything, and I get a different result. I think I need to look elsewhere for my inconsistency. Thanks again, Chris.
@@chrismac2264 Sounds like you're looking for grinding accuracy out of a lathe. Just find fun projects and enjoy yourself, keep practicing, and don't sweat tenths. A change in temperature can produce a deviation larger than what you're talking about. This is a trap that I see a lot of beginners fall into. Measuring obsessively, and spending a lot of time adjusting the machine chasing measurements before having a really good foundation and understanding of the fundamentals. There are so many variables to consider in your 6" example, don't get stressed about it. Just relax, find something cool to make, and make it. Then do it again, accuracy will come with time and experience.
@@chrismac2264 Also, if locking your cross slide is affecting your cuts then your gib might need some adjusting. It should be tightened just to point before it starts to bind. You want to feel a little bit of drag in the hand wheel, not a lot, but some.
Okay, I found the adjustment on the gib. No more movement, and much better cuts. thanks again for the advice.
Best DRO video to date.
What’s your thought on covering the cross slide gib lock screw? I’ve got a similar lathe and I can’t decide on Y axis scale location for this reason.
Haha, 😂 I doubt that! But I do appreciate the compliment VERY much. Thank you! And yeah, it's kind of a bummer, but in the end I couldn't see a better solution. And the more I thought about it, I realized that I never really lock my cross slide anyway, like ever. So I just made sure that it was backed out enough to allow for gib adjustment and sent it. And, if for some reason you ever do really want to lock down your cross slide, you can just do it by running the gib in tight, then back it when you're done without much extra effort. Thanks again for the kind compliment, and thank you for watching!
@@hersch_tool it really is, no one else is as detailed and concise. Also filming the back of the lathe was very helpful as well, you can actually see what is being done whilst most other machines are up against a wall.
Anyway, I see your point. I can’t think of a good solution either. If I mount mine on the front of the carriage I lose the mount for the following steady. Screwed either way. I’ll likely end up doing as you have. Keep up the good content.
Mount the scale on pads or shims, etc., away from the side of the cross slide enough so you can get a wrench in there to turn the locking screw with a small wrench. Switch out the set screw for a hex head for this reason. I almost covered up the lock screw too but now I'm glad I didn't.
@@1Splat that’s a very good workaround. The only thing I don’t like about that is it will push the tailstock even further away from the spindle than it already is with the scale mounted there. Ultimately I don’t have a choice but it would be nice to get all the tailstock reach possible in a perfect world.
@@freestyla101 I hear you. For me, the fact I can lock up the carriage when facing, etc., is worth losing 1/2" of travel.
Nice video, I think your production quality is getting better and better. I'm a hobbyist too and I'm learning a lot watching your videos. I have the same Lathe (MSC 9517350) made in 1996 I think. I bought it used from a dealer in the north east a couple of months ago, and then had to do some repairs from damage in shipping. Otherwise, it's a great machine, and while mine doesn't look as good as yours, it's in good shape and has a lot of life left in it. I noticed you have the taper attachment (it looks like a nice piece). I'm looking for a DRO for it now but having a hard time finding the cross slide size I want. I can't find the one you got on e-bay. Do you have a model number for it? Thanks again.
Thanks very much, I've been working very hard at it. Making videos is all very new to me so there's a lot that I still have to learn, but it's getting a little bit easier every day. The taper attachment is nice to have, but it's definitely bare bones as far as taper attachments go. It gets the job done though. And I'm not sure about the model number of the DRO, but the scales are all the same. In fact, the scale that I used for the cross slide was a scale that I'd had for a while sitting in the shop and I just bought a scale for the bed and the "head" unit and cobbled it all together. Like I said, all of the glass scales sold on eBay with the kits are exactly the same save for whether you choose the 5um or 1um resolution. I do believe that I used a 14" scale for the cross slide, which was just about exactly the right size, it was almost a little too small and I had to mount the reader further to one side just so that I could get the full travel from the cross slide. Most of the kits from eBay should allow you to choose what size scales you want. I would definitely recommend looking for a seller that says "US stock" though, you'll get it much faster. I'll check if I can find any other identifying info and let you know though.
@@hersch_tool Thanks for the response. I found a seller on ebay that lets you pick the size for each scale, so I think that's what I'll do.
Scale guards not necessary?
i'd say best practice is to install some. but definitely not necessary if you use some common sense and are careful. thanks very much for watching btw. 🙂
👍👍😎👍👍 - awesome
Thank you 🙂