REALLY great video, the best video I've ever seen on the subject! All of these mystery settings now make sense, and like you say, it seems like a lot to consider and juggle, but its all logical if you understand what's physically happening on and around the build plate! Thanks so much for putting this together!!
Thank you! It can really be a confusing topic to try and explain over a document. I feel this is the best way. I probably need to make a standalone short just to cover it all in 40s or less. That would be a challenge to explain TSMC in a way 90% of people from new to advanced would get it in under 40s. I'll get working on the script!
@@J3DTech In my head I can see the materials, transitions, animation, simulation, and callouts needed to visually explain what's happening physically and how they tie into the settings and values, but actually following through on CREATING that succinct, clear, understandable 30 second graphic...at some point I'd love to storyboard it out and then start putting that together. I'll tack it onto the end of my "list of things I want to do eventually but probably never will "(⇀‸↼‶)
Thank you. I tried hard to make sure that everything is both friendly to new users but also interesting to advanced users it's difficult balance to keep.
Hey dude I just wanted to let you know that I’ve started to experience that zen at the end of the video. When prints slide off. I’ve gotten a lot better from when I first started and it’s because of your info and the dude for tabletop. For sure. With out a doubt it has helped me so much. I still suck but once I stumbled across your guys info and docs it was suddenly like night and day for me and it’s really been helpful for me. Just wanted to let you guys know. I just started in December, I tried a ton of the other methods, tricks etc that float around on TH-cam. Even the craziest ones. I figured trial and error and eventually I’ll fine tune. I couldn’t understand why. I knew I didn’t just skim through the various tutorials and knew I actually read what info I had. It just didn’t make sense. It sucked. Sure if I was just skimming through the stuff of course it would suck. I wasn’t tho. I didn’t begin to see a change until I read the very valuable information you all have shared. Thanks again
I thank you very much for the time you spend to explain the operation of the slicer, I do not know if you have already made a tutorial on the speed of lifting and lowering ... but it would be useful to have your opinion on the subject because it remains one of the least clear parameters
Great video! Between your guide, the calibration video and this it’s a perfect trio. Got my calibration cubes to fit good with the Siraya Blu clear the bases of the cubes are still solid but my models are great. Thanks for the advice in the comments with the calibration video.
Great Video Love the detailed info, having just aquired a Mars 3 Pro and being new to resin printing/ printing period. The TMSC setting you refer to as global setting, would you use/recommend these no matter the brand of resin printer?
A very large printer like the a 17" LCD printer you would need to add more lift height and light off delay. A very small printer like a mini 8k you could get away with a little bit less. For everything else yep it the same. Everyone gets to tweak their own settings and find the balance between speed, success and accuracy.
@@J3DTech THanks i Found for me it was the um and exposure was the only tweaks i had to change from your settings and it was Golden for me? Thanks for the Assist!!
Looks like you are getting better at editing! Or maybe you just spent longer on this video. Regardless good video. When I see people asking for help I always send them your stuff
I spent WWWWWAAAAAAYYYYY to long on this video lol! I hope the content is worth the effort. It's not a subject many feel they need to understand. Hence the "Flex Plate" But I hope it can help many. I need to learn a better editting program that lets me export in 4k the 1080 max of my current "free" software is not helping.
Question! In your text guide, you mention you've found Navy Gray Fast Gray to have burn in times of 15-24s, 27-34s, or 35-40s for small, medium, and large prints respectively. Here your burn-in layer is set to 18s and you express concern for much higher. Can you clarify?
love your guide, even as someone who has been resin printing for a long time, I find your guide and videos extremely helpful
REALLY great video, the best video I've ever seen on the subject! All of these mystery settings now make sense, and like you say, it seems like a lot to consider and juggle, but its all logical if you understand what's physically happening on and around the build plate! Thanks so much for putting this together!!
Thank you!
It can really be a confusing topic to try and explain over a document. I feel this is the best way.
I probably need to make a standalone short just to cover it all in 40s or less.
That would be a challenge to explain TSMC in a way 90% of people from new to advanced would get it in under 40s.
I'll get working on the script!
@@J3DTech In my head I can see the materials, transitions, animation, simulation, and callouts needed to visually explain what's happening physically and how they tie into the settings and values, but actually following through on CREATING that succinct, clear, understandable 30 second graphic...at some point I'd love to storyboard it out and then start putting that together. I'll tack it onto the end of my "list of things I want to do eventually but probably never will "(⇀‸↼‶)
I appreciate the time you guys take to help others trying it out. I wish these videos would pop out as the first result.
J is the Messiah of newbs.... your vids and. Cubes...are a godsend
Thank you. I tried hard to make sure that everything is both friendly to new users but also interesting to advanced users it's difficult balance to keep.
Hey dude I just wanted to let you know that I’ve started to experience that zen at the end of the video. When prints slide off. I’ve gotten a lot better from when I first started and it’s because of your info and the dude for tabletop. For sure. With out a doubt it has helped me so much. I still suck but once I stumbled across your guys info and docs it was suddenly like night and day for me and it’s really been helpful for me. Just wanted to let you guys know. I just started in December, I tried a ton of the other methods, tricks etc that float around on TH-cam. Even the craziest ones. I figured trial and error and eventually I’ll fine tune. I couldn’t understand why. I knew I didn’t just skim through the various tutorials and knew I actually read what info I had. It just didn’t make sense. It sucked. Sure if I was just skimming through the stuff of course it would suck. I wasn’t tho. I didn’t begin to see a change until I read the very valuable information you all have shared. Thanks again
Thank you! This is the best compliment I've ever had for all my work. I'm soo happy that it's giving you real results!
Great Content!! Thank you for this!! Keep up the GREAT WORK!!
Thank you! I've been working hard to make a massive improvement in the quality going forward.
I thank you very much for the time you spend to explain the operation of the slicer, I do not know if you have already made a tutorial on the speed of lifting and lowering ... but it would be useful to have your opinion on the subject because it remains one of the least clear parameters
I have not, but I do plan to make a standalone video about this topic and TSMC.
Great video! Between your guide, the calibration video and this it’s a perfect trio.
Got my calibration cubes to fit good with the Siraya Blu clear the bases of the cubes are still solid but my models are great. Thanks for the advice in the comments with the calibration video.
Thank you! I'm happy to hear its helped you.
That zen when it slides off the build plate. No ptfe spray 🤣
Great Video Love the detailed info, having just aquired a Mars 3 Pro and being new to resin printing/ printing period. The TMSC setting you refer to as global setting, would you use/recommend these no matter the brand of resin printer?
A very large printer like the a 17" LCD printer you would need to add more lift height and light off delay.
A very small printer like a mini 8k you could get away with a little bit less.
For everything else yep it the same.
Everyone gets to tweak their own settings and find the balance between speed, success and accuracy.
@@J3DTech THanks i Found for me it was the um and exposure was the only tweaks i had to change from your settings and it was Golden for me? Thanks for the Assist!!
@@donpalaisy6796 I'm very happy to hear! Best of luck with your next awesome print!
Looks like you are getting better at editing! Or maybe you just spent longer on this video. Regardless good video. When I see people asking for help I always send them your stuff
I spent WWWWWAAAAAAYYYYY to long on this video lol! I hope the content is worth the effort. It's not a subject many feel they need to understand. Hence the "Flex Plate" But I hope it can help many.
I need to learn a better editting program that lets me export in 4k the 1080 max of my current "free" software is not helping.
Question! In your text guide, you mention you've found Navy Gray Fast Gray to have burn in times of 15-24s, 27-34s, or 35-40s for small, medium, and large prints respectively. Here your burn-in layer is set to 18s and you express concern for much higher. Can you clarify?
If you start watching at 5:31 I discuss this very topic.
Great guide. Lychee should put better explanation in ? Buttons. Theu don't explain anything.
Lychee in the back are you listening??
@@B3RG3RS0N I now work for Lychee so yes.
I have an idea of how to make this feature very powerful
@@J3DTech good to see that lychee is listening🤣
@@J3DTech Thank You