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That sucks, I'm sorry. I have sent the data to Elegoo so they should be able to see if it can be fixed in firmware. But there is a chance that it simply cant be resolved without replacement hardware.

I guess for now I'll just be printing without AA and hoping for the best. Thanks for raising awareness on this.

On what printer? With the XL you will often get a thicker raft due to the heat and the size of the part, so on this we care more 1. Did they all print, Yes good, Are they all about the same thickness? What you want is from the thinest to the thickness no great then 0.3mm difference. 0.2mm if you can get it, but some printers just cant.

On a elegoo mars 3, yes There is a raft who appear, so it's normal? But the size are différent from the left to the right, 0,2 0,3 mm différence so it make 1,2 mm on the left with raft and 1,5 on the right.

@@J3DTech On a elegoo mars 3, they all print good, but the thickness on the left was 1,2 and on the right 1,5 approximatly, (mesure with a meter), difference between left and right can be a problem?

@@Kivar1 It's about as much as you want it. If you want to try to level again you can but it's probably ok

@@J3DTech Ok, thx a lot

@@tysonbradbrook1634 The nFEP for the M3-PREMIUM will work for this printer

@@J3DTech is that same has the ms5 pro?

@@tysonbradbrook1634 Yeah they are all about the same size. In my guide link in the description I have links on the bottom for all the things. Including 2 places to buy nFEP.

@@J3DTech i cant find the links for them

@@tysonbradbrook1634 siraya.tech/products/siraya-tech-nfep-film?sca_ref=2644036.MwjqCAnkkr

@@Kivar1 Yes you can. But I still recommend printing the build plate calibration parts after that to confirm your level and Z offset and going from there.

@@J3DTech Thx ! and i can do it without resin in the vat or it must be with?

@@Kivar1 Either way but a little resin makes it better.

@@J3DTech Ok Thx a lot !

@@peterpeter5666 I've now tested a lot of printers with auto leveling, and I have yet to find one that's as good as manual leveling. However, this particular printer is so far the best of the bunch at it.

@@J3DTech appreciate your reply! guess ill wait a bit longer . was planning on getting a resin printer around september.

@@mackbolan1733 I have and they are quite different. The TGM7 is much easier to bend and doesn't have the accuracy of the RPG What I don't know yet is how they hold up over time.

@@J3DTech Thanks for the reply, very interesting. I'm currently using TGM-7 for my gaming miniatures, but I am interested in checking out this new RPG resin from Phrozen.

@@mackbolan1733 Give is a try and let me know!

@@mitchelcacciola8055 Nope, there hasn't been a lot of progress on this. To be honest, I'm a little bit disappointed.

@@J3DTech that's very disappointing to say the least It's the only issue I've had with my S4 Ultra.

@@mitchelcacciola8055 You're Lucky there is another really big issues that's effecting quite a few users and that's the Auto leveling, isn't.

Here you go makerworld.com/en/models/535082

@@J3DTech thanks

@@eddiexx Unfortunately AA won't help much with stepping. It can a little bit not much. You will need to reduce the lawyer thickness to 30um or 20um then calibrate to see any real difference. I'm not 100% sure in Chitubox but on Lychee for best results do HD AA with 2px and 0% gray.

@@J3DTech Oh i see, MANY thanks for taking the time and responding. Now i know what i could test and see how it works :)

@@MijailMusicOfficial Yes and I am told this is required due to the 14k LCD to keep the CPU and lighting engine cool.

@@J3DTech 🙏❤️ Thanks

Yep, and sadly it will effect all printers as they do get the LCD's from the same place. Anycubic are less effected then the others. In my test most of the newer Anycubic Printers will error or crash. I don't have all of them so I'm unable to test everythign.

@@J3DTech Oh, that's good to know. Spent the past few days figuring out what my next printer will be (still sitting on that original Photon. Inherited a used Saturn 2 from a friend, but it died a month ago). Most likely gonna go with the M7 Pro... which should be able to pick up from where it ended after power loss. So I wonder...if this happens and it errors out and/or crashes...will it also be able to pick up from the last layer? That would be useful. Unless it just proceeds to immediately crash again on retry of that layer :D

@@PatrickHoodDaniel Thank you! A lot of my content can also be found on the Lychee Slicer TH-cam.

@@J3DTech good to know. Thanks.

@@samanthaknepper5963 If you can what issues have you experienced? I'd like to verify and possibly include it in my Final review.

@@dcshores49 Sadly we are slower on this printer then any other. You can still support and prepare your file in Lychee export it as a . STL then slice and send it using Anycubic slicer. Unfortunately we won't likely get this printer added till next month.

@@Leogk001 yes they said there's nothing they can do about it due to the extra power on the motherboard to increase the image processing for the 14k LCD it requires the fans. However, I'm thinking I could probably mod it and use some higher quality fans and make it quieter.

@@J3DTech ok, thank you for replying so quickly, I appreciate it

@@BlueBirdGTV It doesn't work is the take away.

@@outkast187 I talked about the screen protector but not much. Here is why, I don't use them, I don't recommend you using them. In my review on the Saturn 3 Ultra I did go into a little bit more detail on this topic. The issue, you paid for a 14k display, but the second you put that extra screen protector on you're basically down to 8K or worse. There are two reasons for this. One is of course the more material you have pass light through the more diffused it will become. The second issue is that the LCD is only in focus directly at the surface of the LCD. The more distance you put between the printed object and the surface of the LCD the more and more out of focus the light will become. Because of this, in my opinion, it is better to have a good workflow where you are safe and secure, then rely on a screen protector. In fact, even if you have a screen protector, you can still damage your screen or your printer. So having a good workflow is essential regardless.

@@salilhegiste_live Thank you! Also check out the Lychee Slicer TH-cam as well. I do all my Livestream over there and I recently just did a big one. Big love to India as well. My wife was born in Kerala raised in Hyderabad.

@@charlesrestivo870 It's what you get when you create a vacuum. Place a glass upsidedown in a bowl of water and try to pick it straight up.

@@J3DTech I understand that but what does it have to do with prints?

@@charlesrestivo870 If you hollow out a 3D Print it becomes a massive suction cup. Remember your print is sitting in resin which is a liquid and if it's hollow it's a void. Combine these two things and you'll rip your print, printer or fep apart if you don't add in drain holes.

@@J3DTech odd I've never had either of those issues But ok

@@charlesrestivo870 Do you often hollow your 3D models without putting in hollowing holes? If the answer is yes, then a lot of your models probably have trapped resin inside. And this can be rather dangerous as they'll build up pressure and eventually crack open. I've seen one explode throwing resin onto a ceiling in an office environment that was 30 ft High.

I have worfklows to NEVER remove the VAT. Level in the VAT remove the resin without remoing the VAT. The tape I add to the front helps this a lot and then I'm very carefull not to get any resin on the printer. After every I'm finished processing a print, I go over any drips on the printer with Kimtech Kimwipe for cleane up.

That sucks! Hopefully you get a speedy replacement.

@@ItsDaEMIN Faster is not really a way to measure these types of printers. They really only print this fast as the resin you're using and as fast as you're willing to sacrifice quality. There's no mechanism about them like in fdm to make one faster than the other. Comparing the two, I haven't had enough time with them yet, but I will and I will come out with a video. Doing a full comparison of all of the printers and giving my opinions of each. It's going to take a while as I just happen to have a lot on my plate right now, but I will get it out.

@@J3DTech okay thank you very much! but its says the Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Pro has a print speed of 170mm/h. would that be the faster resin printer out there? sorry like I said i have no idea in resin print. thank you for the quick answer!

@@ItsDaEMIN It's ok, it can be hard to see past the advertising. The truth is that if a printer CAN move this fast, for resin there are soo many forces involved that most printers you will end up runing at the same speed. Much slower then advertised to get a good print and high success. Instead focus on the build quality and a useablity feature you're after.

@@J3DTech oh okay! thank you very much for taking your time for me! :) i will look after a big resin printer instead of speed :) i maybe choose the Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K V2 :)

I would look at the sonic-mega-8k-v2 or the Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K S.

@@anthonyrodriguez2570 .CTB with AA can still cause the issue but it's not as often as .goo. The issue can even trigger with no AA but it's greatly reduce.

You pretty much nailed it. The slicer and help by not having as many gray values. Maybe converting it to 8bit vs 16bit. But this would hurt AA quality. Another Post check would be to look at the .png stack in X axis rows and if seens a Value reager then X of variation to then try and correct it by removing gray. However you can trigger this with No gray, just White and black over X value. IN that there is little you can do other then warn the user of the layer that has the issue and offer a suggestion of fix. A LOT of dev work for something that really needs to be fixed on the hardware level.

@@J3DTech The other thing I guess to think about when working around this bug is the size and number of supports. A dense mesh of small supports, especially if they are just larger than a pixel would drive up the bitrate. The joys of what is probably a form or run length encoding. For vertical supports, you could probably gain a lot by simply making the profile square, ot just not anitailasing the support in particular... heck, it might make them stonger. I'm not sure why you would use even more than 4 bits per pixel. It's not like you are viewing the image, it's moderating the amount of curing the resin gets, an while it might soften the resin some and result in some gradiation between adjacent pixels, I have a hard time thinking more than 16 values would matter.

@@tali3san337 Grid supports all the way!

@@xeraohYou're talking about on the Z axis to help prevent layer lines. But really that's also misinformation unless you're printing a cube. When it comes to orientation look for Y or V shapes. Avoid shallow angles on X, Y or Z. Keep faces and more visible areas pointing up vs down. Let the model be it's own support when possible. All these objectives rank higher than one surface being at the perfect angle to reduce stepping.

@@angelfh3309 I'm working on it, but I'll also throw in the Revo and use the M3P as a baseline.

@@henrykhenrykowski2736 after cleaning, they're quite cold. They're going to be the temperature of the IPA. Adding a little bit of heat with the heat gun is like where you just will put them in warm water to make the supports practically fall off. The issue with using water is now you've introduced water into your resin and you can't cure it until it's completely dry. Water takes a long time to evaporate, especially if you live in an area with high humidity. So instead I use a heat gun. Not a very powerful one. This makes it so the supports practically fall off and don't scratch the model while they're coming off.

@@henrykhenrykowski2736 I lift the metal basket in and out. 12 times per a wash. This will allow for I hollowed model to drain the IPA out and back in flushing out the inside. The action of pushing the metal bucket gently into the IPA also forces those little holes to act like Jets essentially power washing the outside. Because I have the plastic funnel at the bottom, the heavy IPA saturated with resin doesn't get mixed back into the washing IPA towards the top. Finally, the metal bucket is smooth on the bottom so it does not scratch or gouge into the plastic bucket. They still look brand new even after using them for over 6 months.

@@Foxenkraft I'm now working on testing that Auto leveling of all of these systems

@@J3DTech I only trust your experience, I will wait for your analysis

First lots of testing and some help from some very smart people on the Lychee Discord. 2nd Yep, I've had a long sit down with the VP of Elegoo and their Lead Engineer, We are currently working to try and resolve the issue. I just need to get them the rest of the data we have been collecting.

When I use my UV sensor, I get 4.0 mW on the S4U, with just the paper over the LCD, it gets a reading of 0mW. I do agree to use glasses and I use them when I'm doing all my testing. But this test is consistent with all my other tests. The Paper blocks most of the UV. The UV sensor I have is the CHitubox one, but I just orderd a $600 one to get me even better data.

@@franklima it is forgivable at this creeped up on them as we went from 4 k to 12K very fast. However I first noticed this Saturn 3 very early on and I have spent a great deal of time trying to send information over to Elegoo and CBOX to notify them of the issue but it wasn't until very recently that I was able to really get a sit-down conversation and show them the research.

@@J3DTech their device firmware has been pretty ok, but the desktop slicer has been bug ridden for years. Usablility issues like not respecting window behavior and broken crl + z functionality nevermind the random crashes and file corruption issues. If the printer file standard was open source and more options existed I would not be as frustrated. Given the closed file format and bad software it is hard to extend much grace.

​@@franklima I work for Lychee Slicer... it's obvious where I sit on that topic. ;) Lychee Slicer for life!

@@J3DTech do you know if Lychee will add .ctb support for Mars 5 Ultra?

@@malkav_ils We should bit I'll confirm

Hopefully now you can get past it. Also, hopefully sometime in the near future we've got the permanent fix for it.

I seee it on that type of print as well, if you have rafts or a lot of models that stack up to create a line of lit pixles on the X. Try to move them around to be staggered. But also, .goo + AA will make it happen a lot more often.

We have tested this on anycubic motherboards generally it's a bit different. They'll just crash instead of crate the glitch. However, I don't have all the any cubic printers with all the different firmware and given that across printers the LCD is shared. It is possible that there is some version of an anycubic printer that does this.

@@J3DTech it's very possible the glitch wasn't from how the image was being displayed, but the end result was very lasagna like. Could have been something else thst caused a similar issue....

@@Meowcate I printed quite a few different things on the S4U and this was the most simple to show off. No need to make it complex for a video like this. I'm not a fan it takes almost 3 minutes between every dry print test.. makes running the test take forever. I use my S3U all the time but I keep my tape on the front so any drips are easily removed. I also keep plastic wrap on all my covers inside and out for easy cleaning of a static pull gets the resin on the cover.

@@OnceinaSixSide That's a good headline! I was trying to think of something as this video is really a 2 in one. I also plan on making a short as well where I just highlight the ending. Updated, thanks for the advice!

Hey! Whatcha doing watchin youtube, you've got a job to do.

@@JameTek Work work

@@honda1st1 Depends on what you're testing. Just the LCD or a glitch like this. No need to expose for more than a second or lift at all. If you want to test everything run it at exactly the same settings.

it's even more with .goo

For some it will glitch back and forth during the UV exposure time.

That's the goal!

@@snarkyarts8182 I have had it 2x naturally on my S3U both times with .goo. but I'm also not using my printers the same way most people do.

@@runklestiltskin_2407 It does effect Anycubic as well but not to the same extent. Most other printers will crash and stop printing.

​@@J3DTechwell, the shift of 3mm was enough for supports to fail, but yes, this glitch as shown is insane

@@Aztechnology. I also printed the hanger for the S4U. I think it's going to make a great addition. In the next few days I plan on doing another short video about layer compression on these auto leveling printers. But after that I really want to focus on the good parts.

@@J3DTech another channel Geek Detour, recently covered the Saturn ultra and Mars ultra. He made some physical modifications but did mention the corner screws did allow fine tune adjustments to build plate level. Unsure if that’s true, but he seemed to think so. I’d imagine given how it auto zero’s that wouldn’t help much with the layer compression though. Are you aware of any way to fine tune that, or is it just the nature of the printer?

@@Aztechnology. I saw that, If mine has the z offset issue will try a few different things. But I'm going after the source and working with Elegoo to see if they have the ability to add it back into the firmware.

@@J3DTech Awesome, that’s definitely the way to do it if possible. Thank you!

@@J3DTech "In the next few days I plan on doing another short video about layer compression on these auto leveling printers." Looking forward to it ! I think that it's important to highlight why that's an issue even for people who don't print parts directly on the plate but on supports, because I already know what Elegoo and others will tell us ("blablabla don't print on the plate, the printer isn't made for it..."). In conjonction with problematic first layer operations that make the first layer thicker than it needs to be, the compression of the subsequent layers seems to me to potentially increase the bed adhesion failure rate (as the first layer's resin remains quite soft where it meets the plate, but then the compression for the subsequent layers means gross overexposure for them, as you're repeatedly curing the same thickness), and I'm also wondering how hard these overexposed compressed layers affect the release film (which would be ironic on the M5U/S4U as one advantage that's been advanced for the tilt mechanism is it being more gentle on the release film during lift operations).

Thanks for highlighting this issue ! I personally would still consider it a major issue, because not only do people need to be aware of it to circumvent it, they'll need to do dry runs to make sure that any modification they bring to their files is successful, or risk another failure again. Basically, they'll have to fiddle instead of being able to follow one clear simple rule to avoid it. I really hope all the hard work you and others have done to detail that problem will pay off and that a proper solution will be found (and not just for the M5U/S4U BTW, but their regular printers as well).

Hi! Im in need of some help I started 3d printing almost a year ago and have experienced the same situation with 3 different printers, spots and kind of scuffs appearing on the lcd screen the latest one on my 3 months old S3U and it also happened on my S2 I dont know whats going on? I dont actually have problem printing all my models prints perfectly but my screen gets damaged over time and then the spots translate as holes to my model which is really a bummer because I enjoy the hobby but I never knew why it happened to my Saturn2 and now its happening to my S3U. The only thing that comes to mind is that maybe I pressed a little too hard when leveling the build plate? I leveled with the paper method. O mayber my settings are incorrect? Currently my settings for Sunlu Standard Grey are Burn in layer Normal layer Number of layers: 5 layer thickness: 50um Exposure time: 40s Exposure time: 3s Trans Layer Count: 10 Lift Distance 3>3 mm Lift Distance: 3>3 mm Retract Distance 3>3 mm Retract Distance: 3>3 mm Lift Speed: 80>240 mm Lift Speed: 80>240 mm Retract Speed: 240>80 Retract Speed: 240>80 mm Wait before print: 1 Sorry for this comment I'm basically losing my mind because I have made a lot of research but to no avail, and all I have learned has been by watching videos but I need some more clarification on why my printers only last a couple of months, I have been making 1/6 and 1/4 scales and I would like to continue making them and been confident that I wont end up screwing up my printers, using lychee slicer btw, hope you can help me out with this little situation I'm experiencing and thanks a lot in advance!

@@lolofx21 have you read my guide? docs.google.com/document/d/1aoMSE6GBGMcoYXNGfPP9s_Jg8vr1wQmmZuvqP3suago/edit?usp=drivesdk

@@J3DTech i did but I still have some questions boss 😔 I myself dont encounter problems printing, all models print fine, but the screen gets damaged over time and still dont know why

@@lolofx21 1. Follow my workflow with the soft silicone spatula before every print. 2. Clean any failure using the VAT clean method. 3. Use my bills plate Calibration prints to set the Z offset to reduce FEP damage and increase success rates. 4. Calibrate using Boxes of Calibration for the best strength you can get while maintaining dimensional accuracy. This will also increase the life of the FEP and LCD. I have a LOT of workflows all designed to get better prints, More success, and keep your printing going for a very long time. See my shorts as well. The tips and tricks to use tape to keep your printer clean and running well. Oh and how I level on the FEP is also to keep the LCD clean.